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THE
2017 FMAs
NEW YORK – 100 GREENE STREET
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VERY SPECIAL THANKS…
to the sponsors of the Fashion Media Awards: Maybelline New York, mcm worldwide, Moroccanoil, Brookfield Place, and lifewtr.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
THE 5
TH
ANNUAL
FASHION MEDIA AWARDS It’s become a marquee moment of New York Fashion Week—on Friday night, a group of A-list fashion and Hollywood insiders gathered at the Four Seasons Downtown to celebrate the industry’s top talents. photography by caroline fiss and hannah turner-harts
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHICMoments
Katie Grand presenter
“She’s one of the most photographed women on the planet, and while she needs no introduction at all, I would be remiss if I didn’t acknowledge her arresting beauty, kind heart, and fierce loyalty, especially to me, thank you. And her unequivocal work ethic. For years, models have struggled to compete with actresses for magazine covers, fashion campaigns, and beauty campaigns, and then the world met Kendall. I’m honored to present the Fashion Icon of the Decade Award to my friend Kendall Jenner. There is no one more deserving.”
Kendall Jenner fashion icon of the decade
“Thank you so much. Honestly, thank you to Katie—she is awesome and she is one of the reasons I am here today. She really helped launch my career.… All I want to do is inspire and be inspired, and if me living out my dream can inspire some little girls or little boys to live out theirs, then I think I’m doing my job. So thank you so much.”
Robin Wright and Dylan Penn
Nina Agdal
Anne V
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Carine Roitfeld presenteR
“A male model is not only supposed to be beautiful, he is supposed to be well-dressed, charming, everything you dream about. But there is something even more beautiful about Jordan—he makes you feel beautiful, and it’s very rare. He speaks with a lot of charisma. So I am proud to give you this award tonight, and I really hope that very soon I give you an award in the business of film. You really deserve to be an actor.”
Jordan Barrett
Male Model of the year “Thank you so much. I never thought this would happen. I have to say thank you to everyone in this room. Thank you so much.”
Doutzen Kroes and Lily Aldridge
Ashley Baker
Presenters
g e t t y i m a g e s ( 1 0 ) ; h a n n a h t u r n e r - h a r t s ( 4 ) ; p a t r i c k m c m u lla n . c o m ( 2 )
Doutzen Kroes: “The first time I met Mario Testino was in Rio, and, of course, being with Mario anywhere, he knows the town more than anyone. So we had a great time and a great shoot. What about you?” Lily Aldridge: “The first time I met Mario was at casting. I went in all excited to meet the famous Mario Testino. I instantly just felt a love for him and his personality. We got along so well, and he was like, ‘I’m going to see you soon.’ And the next thing I know, he flew us off to Barcelona to throw me in a towel. In all seriousness, the towel series changed my career.” Kroes: “Yes, we know he’s a photographer, but Mario Testino actually is far beyond that. As a creative director, he has defined brands and storytelling for the past decade and more.” Aldridge: “From the initial idea to the films to the billboards to being a Vogue guest editor, music videos, Instagram, Snapchat, covers—it’s all mastered by Mario Testino and his incredible team at MARIOTESTINO+.”
EXTRA SPECIAL THANKS…
to the sublime Garrett Neff, who helped emcee Ashley Graham present the trophies to the honorees and did so with grace, humor, and gorgeousness!
Mario Testino creative director of the year
“It’s hard to start thanking who I’d have to thank because it’s been so many people along the way…tonight, people talk about inclusion and immigration. I started off as a photographer in a world where everyone was American, English, French, Italian, or maybe German. I was scared to state my opinion for the first 10 years. And then all of a sudden, I started airing it and I realized that I have an opinion of my own that wasn’t English, wasn’t French, wasn’t American, and it was valid. I’d like to advise everyone who’s in our business—because it is a business of creativity— that you all have a point of view, you can all say what you want and you all can win this award.”
Annabella Barber Garrett Neff
Hilary Rhoda
Mario Testino and Eddie Roche
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CHICMoments Ashley Graham Presenter
“It is a pleasure for me to present the award for CMO of the Year to one of the biggest innovators in her field, Stuart Weitzman’s Susan Duffy. Susan has taken a successful brand and turned it into a global powerhouse. In a time when we need more female voices, as well as brand leaders, I love that Susan is the brains behind the marketing and the imagery of her brand. Ladies and gentleman, Susan Duffy!”
Diane von Furstenberg Presenter
“In this very disruptive world of the digital tsunami…comes this thing, ‘Lenny Letter.’ It appears and it creates a revolution by creating an irresistible new community of modern female voices.”
Mark Tevis
Susan Duffy
cmo of the year, stuart weitzman
“A special thank you to the amazing Brandusa [Niro].… Your love of our industry and the unique cast of characters that define fashion is truly unique. I love your mix of dash, deliciousness, and unfiltered editorial that defines The Daily Front Row.… Michael Jordan once said, ‘Talent wins games, but teamwork and intelligence win championships.’ And I have the most incredible team at Stuart Weitzman—passionate, imaginative, agile. They refuse to be average. And each and every one of them have been intrinsic in helping to write and tell our brand story in an emotionally resonant way.… I also have to thank my husband, who has quite often talked me off the ledge. [Applause] But then, there is the ultimate MVP, Mario Testino. Mario has helped establish a distinct visual vocabulary that not only resonates with women of multiple generations, but has helped us to proudly stand high heels above the rest of the industry. Thank you, Mario.… What’s next? We confidently stride into the future. We will not only continue to reach for the style stars, but we will also continue to bring every woman’s fantasy to life, every step of the way through our unique storytelling.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Presenters
Mika Brzezinski: “We first met Laura Brown at an Oscar party in Los Angeles where we were also very out of place. She came stomping up to me in a red jumpsuit…and she said, “I like you”... Joe Scarborough: “So Mika and Laura became immediate friends for one reason, because they are both crazy. Absolutely crazy…” Brzezinski: “And the new InStyle is about so much more than fashion and celebrity.... It’s about bringing out the personality and humanity in people, which we need now more than ever.... Laura, you built something amazing.”
Susan Duffy and Jordan Duffy
Laura Brown
best september issue, instyle “I was sitting on the hood of a car in Tanzania eating tandoori chicken when I received the e-mail about this award. I made a loud whooping sound, but fear not, I held on to the chicken, because it was really, really good. To be recognized for the Best September Issue at any time is an honor, but for my first time as editor in chief at InStyle it is really something else. So I hope you enjoy witnessing me at my peak…. To us, style isn’t just fashion, it’s about women’s voices, it’s humor, and of course, it’s always shoes.… In the end, InStyle isn’t about what’s in or out— it’s about inclusion.”
Lena Dunham & Jenni Konner
best digital destination, “lenny letter”
Lena Dunham: “We just can’t believe that Diane agreed to join us over here. She has done as much for women’s rights globally as she has for easy access sex with her wrap dress. We just want to thank you so truly from the bottom of our hearts.... I want to tell you a little story about my great grandfather, Louis Trussell. He was a Hungarian immigrant. He came to this country in the early 20th century having come from great poverty and discrimination, hoping to live the American Dream, and he found it here in New York in the Garment District, where he worked his way up the ladder and finally founded his own company.... So now it’s incumbent upon us to all take actions to protect immigrants, especially undocumented Americans, not just for their sake, but for ours. Because they bring craft, passion, and style to our lives, and where would we be without that?” Jenny Konner: “Imagine if we closed our doors to Oscar de la Renta, Joseph Altuzarra, Naeem Khan, Monique Lhuillier, Thakoon, Prabal Gurung, Diane von Furstenberg—what the f**k would we wear? It’s not just about advancing the cause of women, it’s about recognizing the humanity in everyone you come into contact with.... Feminism is about inclusivity, and right now that’s fighting for our undocumented brothers and sisters.”
Roosmarijn De Kok and Mariah Strongin
getty images (5); hannah turner-harts (5)
Andreja Pejic
Joe Scarborough and Mika Brzezinski
S:10.25”
S:13”
OFFICIAL MAKEUP SPONSOR OF
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK ©2017 Maybelline LLC.
CHICMoments CandIce Swanepoel
Kaia & Presley Gerber
Presenter
“Long before Erin Parsons’ success, she was working at a cosmetics counter in her hometown in Ohio. Her fixation with how a perfect lip or a shaped eyebrow could change a person’s face brought her to New York City, where she chased her dream to assist some of the biggest names in the industry.... Erin not only worked with, but became friends with the girls—myself, Gigi Hadid, Adriana Lima, Jourdan Dunn, to name a few. Ever since, she has never failed to make us feel great and look beautiful.... I am thrilled to present my friend and one of the loveliest people in the industry, truly, the Maybelline New York ‘Make It Happen’ Award. Come and get it, girl—you deserve it!”
Presenters
Kaia Gerber: “Since joining TeenVogue.com in 2015, the site’s digital editorial director, Phillip Picardi, has helped change the way people our age get their news. Phillip has expanded the brand’s digital coverage to include topics like human rights and sexuality rights alongside breaking news and fashion and entertainment.” Presley Gerber: “Under his leadership, traffic at TeenVogue.com has increased from 2.4 to an incredible 12.4 million followers. It’s become the fastest-growing magazine brand on digital for two years. At just 26, he’s both the youngest editorial director and youngest site director at Condé Nast.”
Presley and Kaia Gerber
Erin Parsons Maybelline new york’s “Make it happen” award
Lais Ribeiro Sofia Resing
“Candice, I love you. I had a really funny thing I was going to say but [begins crying]. One of the best things that ever happened in my life was becoming Maybelline’s global makeup artist. It just really proves you can come from nothing…and live in a basement and eat ketchup soup because you have no money. This is just a dream come true and now that I’m gaining composure, I think I need to get off as soon as possible, so I just want to thank my Maybelline family, Candice, all the people I’ve worked with, and my agent, Lisa, and my husband and my friends.... Thank you guys so much.”
Bella Thorne in Pamella Roland
Rashida Jones
Phillip Picardi
“I have never felt uglier than standing next to these two genetically gifted people.… What we’ve done at TeenVogue.com has not been a revolution, it has not been an ingenious sort of brilliance, it has simply been a heart and soul-driven effort that includes people who have traditionally not been recognized by our brand. And in doing so, we have shown young women all over the world that they can care about politics and their place in the world, and that they should be taking a defiant stand against the things that our administration is currently doing. In media, we are in a phase right now where we are driven by digital numbers and traffic scores and whatever the hell else. And I’m proud of the growth that we’ve had—from 2 to 13 million [unique visitors a month], but I’m also proud that it came from a place of knowing who our audience was and our instinct as a team.”
Presenter
CHEERS!
Extra special thanks to Rémy Martin and Kim Crawford, who kept the libations flowing at the 2017 Fashion Media Awards.
“If you have been [to an Opening Ceremony show], you’re never going to look at fashion the same again. Expect an experience, like a real true experience replete with streetcar racing, beautiful dance pieces, one-act plays, or a wall made of many tons of melting chocolate. How did I miss that one? Anyway, it’s the design, really, that we know them for. The Cali cool, the global patterns, and subversion and originality, and just f**king awesomeness. Since 2002, Opening Ceremony manages to be the perennial cool kid brand. They push, they challenge, they disrupt, they get political, and they innovate. And they are just the dopest people in real life. I have been a fan since the beginning, so please, please welcome my dear friends.”
Humberto Leon & Carol Lim
Fashion innovatorS award, opening ceremony
Humberto Leon: “It’s crazy that it’s been 15 years and seven days since we first opened our store. [Applause] It’s a really big honor for us to be here. I think our guiding light through the years has been to stay connected to culture, stay rooted in friendships, and allow Opening Ceremony to be a platform for experimentation and discovery.” Carol Lim: “We feel really lucky to be here and to be able to continue working.... We thank everyone for being part of the community and coming to visit the stores, coming to buy the collection, and just coming and having a dialogue with us. Thank you to The Daily for recognizing us, and thank you to our family, many of them are here today.… We hope to be here for another 15 years!”
getty images (7); hannah turner-harts (3)
media brand of the year, teenvogue.com
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28/07/17 13:28
CHICMoments
TOASTING
After the main event, the chic set decamped to The Wooly, where MCM Worldwide and (RED) hosted a killer after-party that featured ample libations and a set from DJ Henri.
Young Paris
Maya and Ippolita Rostagno
h a n n a h tur n er - h a rts ( 1 0 ) ; gett y i m a ges ( 4 ) ; c a r o l i n e f iss ( 3 )
THE FMAs!
Louise Chantรกl
Anne V
Rita Shukhman
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GUTTER CREDITS HERE
Ashley Graham
S:10.5 in
MY
“STEAL THE SHOW” HAIR 24H HOLD ULTRA FINE MIST.
WORK IT
Mariacarla Boscono, Candice Swanepoel, Joan Smalls, and Doutzen Kroes
Courtney Love
The Weeknd and Selena Gomez
Mert Alas
Sara Sampaio
Heidi Klum
Presley and Kaia Gerber
Jared Leto
Gigi Hadid
SCENE
A-listers galore hit The Plaza Hotel, where Harper’s Bazaar gathered to celebrate ICONS by Carine Roitfeld and take in a performance by The Weeknd. • Mert Alas and Marcus PiggotT toasted their new eponymous Taschen book with a model-rific party at The Public.
Irina Shayk
Andreja Pejic
Nicki Minaj
a awards, at the fashion medi… the daily Wonders
Mert & MARCUS PARTY
Kim Kardashian West
Kendall Jenner
BAZAAR’s BASH
“When I was in school, it was Big Bong.”
What’s your nickname?
—Katie Grand
Week of September 7–13 Obsixed: Six coveted or can’t-livewithout items that make for a fashionable lifestyle. ted gibson
1 2 3 4 5 6
Pink Gold Love bracelet by Cartier Replica boots by Maison Martin Margiela Organic raw apple cider vinegar by Bragg Elnett Satin Hairspray by L’Oréal Paris Bakhtyari Persian rug from Catalina Rug Eames lounge chair and ottoman from Design Within Reach
“Young Smurf. I used to dye my hair blue, and I would have blue hands, a blue neck, and a blue face.”
—Iskra Lawrence
—Bella Thorne
“I call Jenni [Konner] ‘Yenny.’ And she does not like it when I call her Jennifer. It makes her feel like she’s in trouble.” —Lena Dunham
“Peaches! Because I’m obsessed with them.” —Dylan Penn
“I call Lena ‘Leens.’ ” —Jenni Konner
SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM
Love the Pamella Roland dress, chérie!
“Rash, Rashie, Sheda, Sheshe, Rara…my favorite is Dukey, which my dad calls me. I don’t even know what it means, but it’s cute!” —Rashida Jones
PROMOTION
PROMOTION
BOLD BROWS
For Kith’s Spring 2018 show, Erin Parsons for Maybelline New York nodded to the brand’s sporty vibes by creating a beauty look that suggests a glamorous tomboy. The key components? Dewy skin and strong, full brows. BEAUTY MUST: MAYBELLINE NEW YORK EyeStudio Brow Precise Micro Pencil, $7.99, maybelline.com FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PRO TIP: Add highlighter to the browbone area to make eyes pop.
“Mika calls herself ‘Mika Baby’ on her snaps. For me? I’m Bear.”
“DVF.” —Diane von Furstenberg
—Joe Scarborough
“J.” —Jordan Barrett
“LB.” —Laura Brown
sHOE OF THE DAILY The Flatscrunchy The slouchy boot is unequivocally the style of the season. This mid-calf version is meticulously crafted from supple nappa for a streamlined silhouette, and is poised to be your fall favorite when worn with thigh-grazing skirts and relaxed sweaters. $775, stuartweitzman.com PROMOTION
b a z a a r : pat r i c k m c m u l l a n .c o m ; g e tt y i m ag e s ( 6 ) ; da r r e n g e r r i s h ( 3 ) ; c o u r t e sy z ac h h i lt y/ b fa .c o m ( 3 ) a n d s a m d e i tc h / b fa .c o m ; s h u tt e r sto c k ; a l l ot h e r s c o u rt e sy
#OBSIXED FOR 7
“Sparky! My name means ‘spark’ in Russian.”
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The Models galore graced the Maybelline New York dinner
Brandusa Niro
Editor in Chief, CEO
heard
Nicole Miller took to the Gramercy Park Hotel’s rooftop to show her Spring ’18 collection. Inspired by John Ford’s Mogambo, she presented an ultra-chic take on a safari, replete with jumpsuits, utilitarian boots, and charming butterfly and palm front prints. • Maybelline New York and V hosted a dinner at the Maybelline Mansion that drew the brand’s mods Jourdan Dunn, Adriana Lima, and Emily DiDonato.
SPOTTED! Tiffany Trump graced the front row of the Taoray Wang show, flanked by Andrew Warren and Peter Brant Jr.
COMMUTING & CHATTING!
daily doubles
Mark Tevis Publisher
With Robin Givhan en route to Christian Siriano
What’s new at Washington Post HQ these days? Well, the teams who cover different aspects of the government are certainly busier. It’s challenging to cover. Why? I don’t know that the way in which we go about covering has changed—it’s the same level of reporting—but now, it starts at 6 a.m. when the President starts tweeting until late into the evening. You feel like there’s a fire hose of information coming at you. Thoughts on the First Lady’s fashion choices? At this point, I think her legacy is her photographs and her fashion choices. She’s a former model, and certainly understands angles and photography and how best to complement her look. I think she typically looks great.
Adam Moss
Viggo Mortensen
MINI POSTMORTEM!
With Deena Aljuhani Abdulaziz, former editrix of vogue arabia What are you working on now?
Breathing! [Laughs] I just got to the States. My daughter moved into college at RISD. Would you consider going back into editorial?
#OBSIXED FOR 7
Week of September 7–13 Obsixed: Six coveted or can’tlive-without items that make for a fashionable lifestyle. Eva Zuckerman
Fleurs d’Oranger Eau De 1Parfum by Serge Lutens Automatique Lip Crayon in 2Alluring by Surratt suede ankle boots by 3Vika Saint Laurent table by 4Console Fernando Mastrangelo Studs 5byTheEvaEmpire Fehren Three-seat Togo Ligne 6Roset by Michel Ducaroy SHOP THE LIST ON STORYANDRAIN.COM PROMOTION FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
No comment! Any takeaway from your time as an EIC?
I still enjoy the creative process— always have, always will. What’s your take on NYFW?
Just because some people aren’t showing in one place doesn’t mean we can’t discover them. New York has always been such a great place to discover talent, so I have faith.
Executive Sales Director Stephen Savage Account Manager Cristina Graham Director of Marketing & Special Events Alex Dickerson Digital Director Daniel Chivu Publishing Manager Carey Cassidy Manufacturing Operations Michael Esposito, Amy Taylor
getty images the official photo agency of The daily front row
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright 2017. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 250 West 57th Street, Ste. 301, New York, NY 10107.
On the covers: Kendall Jenner in a Giambattista Valli dress at The Daily Front Row's 2017 Fashion Media Awards. Photography by Paul Mongi/Getty Images; logo art by Lifewtr Series 3 designers Adam Dalton Blake, Ghazaleh Khalifeh, and Tiffany Huang.
g ett y i m a g es ( 1 0 0 ; p a t r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 1 ) ; a l l ot h e r s c o u r tes y
NICOLE MILLER
Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Executive Editor Ashley Baker Managing Editor Tangie Silva Creative Director Jill Serra Wilde Fashion Editor Paige Reddinger Senior Editor Kristen Heinzinger Associate Editor Sydney Sadick Art Directors John Sheppard, Magdalena Long Contributing Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Contributing Photographer Giorgio Niro Contributing Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists RJ Hamilton, George Maier
supima design competition
+ the next generation of chic
P R O M OT I O N
The Supima Design Competition
F
or the 10th year of the Supima Design Competition, Supima has partnered with America’s leading design schools: Drexel University, Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising, Fashion Institute of Technology, Kent State University, Parsons School of Design, Rhode Island School of Design, and Savannah College of Art and Design. Each school nominated one of its top graduating seniors as a finalist for the Supima Design Competition. In May 2017, each of today’s seven designers was assigned a faculty mentor, provided fabric from Supima’s most prestigious brand partners—Brooks Brothers, Albini, Olimpias, Olah Inc., Nice Dyeing, Uniqlo— and asked to create capsule collections of women’s eveningwear that highlighted the unique characteristics of Supima cotton. The Supima Design Competition required each designer to rethink familiar fabric conventions: the woven fabrications customarily used as high-end shirting; the fine jersey that goes into luxury tops and lingerie; and the sturdy denims, corduroys, and twills that make up premium jeans and sportswear. Designs were judged on originality, execution, and ability to showcase Supima, America’s luxury cotton. The winner received a $10,000 cash prize.
THIS YEAR’S WINNER ALYSSA WARDROP fashion institute of technology
The young designer developed an obsession with clothing and art at an early age. As a kid growing up in Rockaway, New Jersey, Alyssa was constantly drawing on whatever she could find, even the walls of her home. She dreamed of designing and became determined to attend FIT. Now majoring in fashion design and minoring in art history, Alyssa uses history as inspiration for her designs. She was a CFDA Fashion Future Graduate Showcase finalist in 2017 and participated in the FIT Future of Fashion runway show.
P R O M OT I O N
the one Alyssa Wardrop takes to the runway as the winner for the 2017 season.
The JUDGES Fern Mallis Teekay Founder of Zarrella Fashion Week Editor in Chief, Fashion Unfiltered Katharine K. Zarrella Fashion Unfiltered
Michela Buttignol S’well
Scott Morrison 3X1
host june ambrose
Tracey Greenstein WWD
Zachary Weiss New York Observer
Carmen Lilly Stylist
Buxton Midyette Supima Nicole Chapoteau Allure Magazine
Alexandra Wilkis Wilson Fitz & Co.
Jade Frampton Elle Magazine Tyler McCall Fashionista
courtesy
Paige Reddinger The Daily Front Row
P R O M OT I O N
Bibhu Mohapatra Designer Mentor
designers Nancy hennessey
Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising
saraH johnson kent state university
alexandra pijut savannah college of art and design
lela thomPson drexel university
Rhode Island School of Design
margaret kwon parsons School of Design
The Sponsors olah inc.
Find out more: allaboutsupima.com/design-competition P R O M OT I O N
c o u rtesy
abigail griswold
Series 3.1 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Adam Dalton Blake
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Introducing LIFEWTR Series 3. We advance and showcase the sources of creation and creativity.
runwaYReport
STARTING STRONG
The first group of designers to show at NYFW have an intimate understanding of their strengths—which they used to maximum effect in collections that were both exuberant and restrained.
jeremy scott
brandon maxwell Yes, yes, Maxwell showed some colorful blazers and boot-cut jeans this season, but we don’t need him for dressed-down fare—not when his ultra-clean meditation on ‘minimalism meets glam’ is this fresh, this modern, this ravishing. We know what we’ll be wearing to every major spring party.… FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
getty images (12); shutterstock (2)
To toast his 20th anniversary, Scott reminisced and riffed on some of his best ideas—sexed-up sportswear, psychedelia, cartoony outthere embellishments, and as always, influences from the street. They were as fresh and fun as ever, especially on this group of killer models.
Series 3.2 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Tiffany Huang
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Inspiration on the outside. Hydration on the inside.
runwayReport
monse Stars and stripes forever! Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim dabbled in Americana and athleticism without abandoning their (borderline) buttoned-up sensibilities. Monse’s twisted shirting benefited from unexpected pairings, like fringed skirts and flyaway track pants.
BEAUTY TREND alert!
ROMANTIC EYES
By Gucci Westman MAYBELLINE NEW YORK
Laura Vassar and Kris Brock should expect to enjoy the spoils of their best season yet. A winning mix of embroidered dresses, burlap coats, and noir slip dresses will appeal to their customers’ more feminine sensibilities without slipping too far into the saccharine stuff. All in all, a very fine romance. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
g e t t y i m a g e s ( 7 ) ; e va n w. m i l l e r ( 6 ) ; s h u t t e r sto c k ( 5 )
brock collection
Series 3.3 Emerging Fashion Designers
Art by Ghazaleh Khalifeh
©2017 LIFEWTR and THIRST INSPIRATION are trademarks.
Discover our designers at LIFEWTR.com
runwayReport PRINTS CHARMING!
Each collection included a variation of the print that appears on each designer’s LIFEWTR bottles.
Ghazaleh Khalifeh Khalifeh used her considerable talent with textiles to create a breathtaking collection that combines an array of intricate textiles in a powerful statement about the beauty of diversity.
THE LOOK OF LIFEWTR
adam dalton blake Blake’s nostalgic, trippy take on ’80s-era tennis ensembles resulted in a collection called “Fifteen Love” that is destined to make even the most serious fashion fiend smile. From loose-knit tops to furry vests and boxy shorts, Blake’s sunny vision conveys a sense of much-needed optimism. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
tiffany huang
Huang’s graphic, maze-like design was used in fantastical tunics and dresses, which used unexpected, utilitarian motifs, like knot closures to conform to the body.
c o u rt e s y l i f e w tr / b f a ( 1 4 ) ; sh u tt e rst o c k ( 4 )
The CFDA and Lifewtr teamed up to unveil ready-to-wear collections from Ghazaleh Khalifeh, Tiffany Huang, and Adam Dalton Blake, all of whom were tapped to create artwork for Lifewtr’s Series 3 bottles.
armCandy
MCM MANIA!
Under the ownership of Sung-Joo Kim, the German luxury brand MCM has been undergoing a full-scale renaissance. With an ever-increasing presence around the world, the company makes bags that have been embraced by tastemakers, editors, artists, and musicians, and its growth shows no signs of slowing. Patrick Valeo, the president of MCM Americas, explains its evolution.
MAN ON A MISSION Patrick Valeo has implemented a strategic plan to grow MCM’s business in both North and South America.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
What was MCM known for when it was founded in Munich in the 1970s? MCM was founded as a luxury leather goods company known for travel, trunk suitcases, and bags—essentially, the products that jet-setters used on their private jets. It was about the spirit of Munich and the influence it had, globally, in the 1970s. What were some of the factors that were influential in the brand’s rise and its transition into a global fashion brand? The brand has always been bold and creative; it has had a vision to stay with the times and yet be a step ahead of the times. If you want to become big in the world, you have to make a statement. So many celebrities who made their careers during that time in MCM’s history wanted to be part of the brand—they wanted people to see their luggage being loaded on to their private jets.
MCM has a really powerful and identifiable logo. What does it represent? MCM stands for “Mode Creation Munich.” The floral leaves represent the Greek symbol of victory and honor. Our logo has nine leaves on one side, and eight on the other. The logo has become a source of design inspiration, and its use has evolved over the years. How did the brand become a global powerhouse? We were really the first to embrace travel early on, and we realized how travel was changing, and it became a major part of modern life. Our products evolved from the trunks; we were the first to develop the luxury backpack. Today’s traveler wants something mobile and easy to use, and we are constantly trying to build technology into the products while maintaining their look and feel. Our products are manufactured with high quality standards, and we have a great satisfaction rate
GO GRAPHIC MCM’s bags combine structured silhouettes with standout hardware, clever branding, and unexpected elements, like contrasting colors and animal motifs.
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“there is enough seriousness in the world—we keep our pieces light and fun.” with our clients, who appreciate the longevity of the product. Today, people are still carrying bags from 30 or 40 years ago. Who are some of the brand’s most prominent fans? Beyoncé, Jay-Z, Justin Bieber, Serena Williams, Lady Gaga, Selena Gomez…there are all types of people. Rihanna is constantly photographed with the bag. When you have all the tastemakers carrying your brand, it takes off quickly. When we outgrew Europe, we grew our business in Asia before focusing on the United States. Now, the U.S. is one
of our biggest markets. We have really important partners in Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks, and Bloomingdale’s, and I think our success is a testament to the branding, design, and functionality of the product. We are not going to be everywhere; we want to be unique. Why do you think MCM resonates with so many types of consumers? There is enough seriousness in the world—we keep our pieces light and fun, and that appeals to a multigenerational customer base. Whether you’re 70 or 20, everyone wants to feel young and embrace that spirit. You put a rabbit on a bag or bunny ears or whatever it may be, and it keeps it light and fun. What are some of your most popular items going into the fall season? The Patricia bag, which was inspired by the archives and was called the Patty bag when it first launched. In today’s version, the Patricia represents individual style. Everyone wants something unique that communicates their own identity, so we’ve made the Patricia bag fully customizable. Whether you want a different strap or different color, we can deliver it in a quick turnaround time. Our tote collection is also always evolving—it’s a massive business. The following for our backpacks continues to grow as well, even as many more players have entered that segment of the market. What’s the story with MCM’s new Canadian flagship? Our partnership with Nordstrom in Canada has been very successful, and we’re following that by opening a flagship on Bloor Street in Toronto. It has a dramatic, high ceiling, and it’s a freestanding store, which will be a beautiful statement for the brand. You plan to relaunch MCM’s website and its digital properties for 2018. What will that entail? Digital is key, and like many brands, it’s been a major focus of investment. Our e-commerce
business launched more than two years ago, and it has continued to see double-digit growth. Our new website is really being developed for mobile users—80 percent of our traffic is from customers who access it through their mobile device. Omnichannel capabilities are key, and they serve our customers better, and they do a better job of telling the brand story. You recently formed a partnership with Bono’s (RED) initiative. How did that come about? [MCM owner Sung-Joo] Kim, who is a longtime friend of Bono’s, saw him at the Davos conference, and that conversation eventually sparked this partnership. MCM is (Red)’s first luxury accessories partner, and it will be a decade-long commitment. Why has MCM made this initiative such a long-term focus? We always do things long-term—it’s about quality, not quantity. This partnership will impact future generations, and MCM has always enjoyed partnering with causes that have positively impacted the lives of women and girls all around the world. Mrs. Kim has constantly supported these causes. What can we expect from the (RED) product? There will be an exclusively curated assortment of nine SKUs, consisting of small and large leather goods—a version of the Patricia shoulder bag, some wallets, and also some belts. All of them will include the color red in some way. It’s a small collection, but it will have a big impact. ß FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
tEAMPlayers
same time, I find myself shopping online more and more. I like shopping at destinations, especially resort boutiques. Even if it’s also sold at Bergdorf Goodman, it somehow feels more special if you found it in an island shop. It’s a challenging time for department stores. Thoughts? There are so many brands; there’s a lot out there. Websites like MatchesFashion and Net-a-Porter do such a nice job curating it all. There are clever ways to do that in a physical store, like Bergdorf’s did with Linda’s and Saks’ The Wellery. It’s all about the experience. ß
BOLD TYPES W’s high-concept approach to fashion, as seen on its recent covers.
NEW GUARD Edward Enninful’s departure left a big void at W—or a huge opportunity! Just ask the title’s newly installed fashion brigade: Fashion Director Rickie De Sole and Style Director Sara Moonves. BY ALEXANDRA ILYASHOV photography by william jess laird Congrats on the promotion, Rickie. How did it happen? I worked closely with Edward Enninful, and when he left, Stefano [Tonchi] really wanted to put together a team. I’m working with all the creatives to make sure things run seamlessly, so they’re not shooting the same looks, and so we’re telling all the stories we want to tell. What’s your rapport like with Stefano? Stefano is the best boss you could ask for, on the record! No, but truly—he’s incredibly trusting, and willing to take risks. He’s open to hearing opinions. That’s why we work with such a roster of talents; they can come and play here. Has your work at W been all that different from what you were doing at Vogue? Completely. I was only covering accessories at Vogue, and I wanted to grow. I want to be the first person to help get behind young talents. Knowing what’s next is such a big part of the W vocabulary. Do you feel edgier these days? I’m not an edgy person, which I think Stefano was FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
aware of when he hired me. I certainly have not become grungier while working here, besides wearing more black. But I think that side of me is in there; I am who I am. I appreciate fashion but am not necessarily going to embrace it on a personal level. Do you ever worry what this job will look like in five or 10 years? Don’t we all? [Laughs] Yes, I think everything is changing at such a fast pace, and that’s why it’s important to do all the amazing things that we’re doing now. Stefano does these hardbound editions of two of our issues this year, which makes them like coffee table books. The real estate in W is really unique. Thoughts on how other media behemoths have “hubbed” jobs across titles? Certain parts of [Condé Nast] have already been consolidated, like the publishing side—our team works on W and Vanity Fair—but it hasn’t had an effect on our jobs. We’ve heard many rumors [about consolidation] at this point, but they’re just rumors. But I love a challenge—whatever happens, that or something else, you have to take it in stride. How do you know a designer’s going to make it big? If people at Condé Nast start wearing it, which is what happened with CVC Stones. We have this French jewelry assistant, Schanel [Bakkouche], who found this designer, Pascale [Monvoisin], and started wearing it; then I did; then one of the Vogue girls started wearing it, then it’s like, well, it’s a thing. If people want to wear it that work in fashion and have access to everything within reason, there’s something there, that’s the No. 1 indication for me. How has the retail landscape changed during your career? I still love stores, and I keep saying that, but at the
What brought you to W? I met with Stefano when all the changes began, and I’ve been such a huge admirer of his and what an incredible, iconic magazine W is. I loved working at Vogue, but I thought this was such an amazing new chapter. Rickie was a great collaborator at Vogue, and I think that for both of us at W, it’ll be great to expand that relationship. What’s going to be different about this gig? W is so experimental, and I’m excited to take risks I couldn’t take a Vogue. And W does such a great job at combining different cultural elements, like art and entertainment, and I’m excited about that. Stefano is really into giving people a chance, and that sort of freedom makes W, W. We talked about my interest in photographers and directors. Stefano and I both have a love of film, and we talked about new directors and how we can do things for digital and print and encompass all the things we love. Will you continue working on side gigs while at W? W’s going to be my primary focus, absolutely, but I’m still going to be working with a few select advertising clients. Who are you tight with in fashion? I’ve been working in fashion since I was young, and I grew up with a lot of the young designers, who actually aren’t so young anymore—Jack [McCollough] and Lazaro [Hernandez] from Proenza, Mary-Kate and Ashley [Olsen] from The Row, Laura and Kate Mulleavy [from Rodarte]… these are people I’ve known since they started their careers, and it’s amazing to see them take off. Who are you betting on big as the next-gen in fashion? I was obsessed with what Shayne [Oliver] was doing at Hood By Air; I’m excited to see what he does at Helmut Lang. Vaquera is interesting, and I can’t wait to see how they expand. It’s exciting to see brands like Brock and Adam Selman expand, too. Did your Hollywood upbringing [as the daughter of CBS honcho Les Moonves] shape your fashion POV? Growing up in L.A. I have a huge interest in Hollywood. I left to go to New York the second I could because I didn’t want to be in the entertainment industry! But I do have a love for film, TV, and music. I’ve admired the incredible Lynn Hirschberg for so long, and I think the conversation about the industry at W is really about new, interesting talent and championing young actors, musicians, and directors early in their careers.
co u r t e s y
PLUS! Sara Moonves Weighs In…
AVAIL ABLE AT ADDI T IONELLE .COM
power Publicists
What’s the agency’s history? Caroline Lynch: We started almost 20 years ago in London. We wanted the roots to lie in fashion, as most of us had fashion backgrounds, but we wanted to cover multiple categories. From day one, we always wanted to work across different sectors. One of our first clients was Ian Schrager. We launched the St. Martins Lane hotel in London and have worked with him ever since. Most recently, we’ve worked on launching the EDITION hotels. Why did you name the agency Purple? Lynch: We didn’t want to use our names! We thought it might sound like a firm of accountants if we did. And we wanted one word that would be globally understandable. Is there purple décor in the office? Lynch: There is not. Had to ask! Who have been some of your clients over the years? Lynch: Calvin Klein was our first fashion client. We worked with Donna Karan for years. We launched Elle Macpherson Intimates in Europe and launched [WelleCo’s] Super Elixir, so from the beginning, we worked across beauty, culture, art, design, architecture, events, and fashion. Nancy Oakley: Italian and French houses were our focus. We had the privilege of working with Brioni when it was a family business. The CEO at the time, Umberto Angeloni, had a great, open approach to surreal presentations in Milan, even though the brand FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Purple PR has emerged as the biggest PR powerhouse to hit New York in ages, but this agency wasn’t born yesterday. London-based directors Nancy Oakley and Caroline Lynch have been rocking fashion for nearly 20 years, and they dish to The Daily about their colorful rise to the top. BY EDDIE ROCHE photography by hannah turner-harts
was extremely traditional. We also had an amazing time working with Roberto Cavalli. What’s your approach to PR? Oakley: To create something different so as to engage the consumer. It’s not just about a picture in a magazine. It has to be memorable, magical, and interactive. PR is everything from a celebrity wearing designer clothes walking along the street to an influencer posting stories on Instagram to traditional editorial in magazines. The younger generation is more political, so you have to be aware of how they are thinking and what they are looking at. In the U.K., Purple works with musicians like Adele. What’s the story with your entertainment division? Lynch: It’s a separate company in the U.K., but it’s under the Purple umbrella. They represent some of the best artists in the world, like Lana Del Rey, Björk, and Zayn Malik. What are some of the projects you’ve been the most proud of in recent years? Oakley: The Freeze for Frieze project with Moncler. From its conception to the opening night, that was probably one of the most fun and intense projects we have ever worked on. We also nurture and sponsor young designers at Purple—at the moment, we’re working with Faustine Steinmetz, who have just
won the Swarovski prize; Phoebe English; and Daniel Fletcher, who was a runner-up for the LVMH Prize when he was fresh out of Central Saint Martins. How did you land in New York? Lynch: From the start, we’ve had several American clients and we had long toyed with the idea of opening here. Several of our team members based in London were really keen to come to New York to open the office. And so about four years ago, we said, “Why not?” How many New York staffers do you have? Oakley: About 43, and we have 75 employees in London and eight in L.A. What are some of the fashion brands that you’re working with these days? Lynch: We recently launched Alexa Chung’s line ALEXACHUNG on a global level, which was a fabulous project. We also work with Buccellati, L’Agence, and Willy Chavarria; and Moncler, Jil Sander, DKNY, and Theory in London. We’ve worked with Richard James for many years. What’s on the slate at Purple that you’re excited about? Oakley: There is never a dull day. We’re constantly meeting new companies and people who have exciting ideas that we can make happen. There’s so much to do! ß
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THE IN CROWD Nancy Oakley (left) and Caroline Lynch are two of the masterminds behind some of fashion’s buzziest events.
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Where New Collections Set Sail. Fashion. Food. Art
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TAILOR Made
happy 15th, pamella!
A Pamella Roland gown has promised supreme fit and a certain luxe factor since the brand’s inception 15 years ago. The secret to success? Founder Pamella DeVos’s no-nonsense approach to business and her global quests for creative fuel, which take her from Monte Carlo to New York City. BY KRISTEN HEINZINGER PHOTOGRAPHY BY WILLIAM JESS LAIRD
Welcome back to New York! What’s new? We’re preparing for the show, and a few days later my daughter gets married [in Michigan]. Are you designing her gown? Gowns! And the bridesmaids’ gowns and my own dress. When I got married, I had the puffy-sleeved wedding dress. It was the ’80s! [Laughs] What’s the story behind your Fall collection? My inspirations are usually travel and art. This year, it’s inspired by a trip my family and I took to Monte Carlo and the Grand Prix. It was spring, and there were flowers everywhere. I was driving FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PAMELLA ROLAND on the tapis rouge
my husband nuts with all the pictures I was taking! What else was on the calendar this summer? I’m the vice president of the board for the Whitney Museum, so the gala is my No. 1 thing during the summer. I also received an award from the Joyce Theater and the Joffrey Ballet. And I just saw Lady Gaga at Wrigley Field in Chicago, which was great! What’s your fave song? “Poker Face.” It’s a classic. Your kids usually join you for your runway bow. Have they taken an interest in fashion? Sydney, my younger daughter, has taken the most
interest. My son, Cole, plays hockey, and that’s all he cares about. [Laughs] My oldest daughter, Cassandra, is a lawyer, but we’re looking into working on a home collection together. You launched your label later in life—when did your interest in fashion begin? I didn’t create the brand until after I had children and moved to Japan [for my husband’s business]. I’d always had an interest in fashion and the arts. When I was a young girl, my mother would buy me supplies, like oils. My father had a fit when he thought I was going to an art school! He told me I’d never make money. So I studied business at Michigan State University, and I’m happy I did. Some people who don’t have that training don’t understand that it’s important to keep your doors open. I think that’s why I’ve been around for 15 years. Does the brand today resemble what you set out for it to be? Not at all. I never thought 15 years down the road I’d be doing this. Neiman Marcus bought our first line and it just took off. It began with sportswear and day dresses and a couple of gowns. Women were telling us it was hard to find gowns that fit well. We really worked on that, and found that we were selling. So we slowly got out of sportswear, and today, we create more cocktail dresses and gowns. When was the first time you saw one of your gowns on a red carpet? I won the Gold Coast Award, and I was in my hotel room in Chicago waiting to go onstage. The Emmys were on, and it was the last year of Sex and the City and Kim Cattrall was up for an award. She was on the red carpet in one of our gowns, and we were just screaming! Megan Mullally from Will & Grace also wore one of our pieces, and she won that year. A few people actually call me Karen—I can be goofy. [Laughs] Who’s buying the line? It’s always kind of been the same customer. We dress the daughters, the mothers, the grandmothers—all ages. Recently, more stores overseas have picked us up. That customer is different, so we’re showing more beading and opulence than before. It’s not just clean lines anymore—people are having fun with fashion. You’re based in Michigan, but have you ever considered moving to NYC? All the kids are out of the house, and my husband and I travel all the time and we live part-time in Chicago. If I moved here, it wouldn’t be with my husband because his work is in the Midwest. It would be just me and the dogs, Manolo and Hemingway. [Laughs]
“Women were telling us it was hard to find gowns that fit well. We really worked on that, and found that we were selling.”
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PURE OPULENCE ON THE SPRING ’18 RUNWAY
You travel often—is there a traditional trip? We go to Capri quite a bit. The next trip is to Papua New Guinea in the spring. I don’t know how we ended up going there [Laughs], but I’ve heard it’s amazing. We check out new places quite a bit. My family is adventurous. Anything they can jump off, they’ll jump off. They actually made me bungee jump off a bridge. I had tears coming down my face and I was scared to death, but I did it. Wow! So how are you celebrating your brand’s 15th anniversary? We always celebrate! It usually involves vodka. We have fun here. Over a dozen shows later, what have you learned? People have always told me I’m pretty calm during the show. But what else can you do? We have a no diva policy. My famous line is, Have you ever raised teenage daughters? Compared to that, this is nothing. ß
fun facts! Nickname: Pammy or P Musical inclinations: “I played the violin when I was a kid.” Pet peeve: “The drama queens!” Style icon: “I’m a huge Princess Diana fan.” Travel essentials: “Spray water for my face, these really weird socks, and scrubs that I got from a friend who works in a hospital. I wear them on really long trips.” In my purse: “Probably 20 tubes of lipstick. It makes my handbags very heavy!” In my office: “A chair with Brad Pitt’s face on it from a photographer friend, Jennifer Graylock. She knew I loved Brad Pitt. But I don’t let anyone sit on him!”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
ChiCSpree
SHOPPING PROMOTION
what’s in at the outnet
IRIS AND INK Margot lace midi skirt, $190
Romantic shades of rouge and luxe shimmery confections have us falling for fall.
PROENZA SCHOULER Hava small leather shoulder bag, $825
ADAM LIPPES Crepe wide-leg pants, $409
ELLERY Suko coldshoulder satincrepe top, $318
EMILIO PUCCI Printed-leather over-the-knee boots, $627
MALONE SOULIERS Montana lace-up suede and leather pumps, $298
ANNA SUI Floral-jacquard mini dress, $187
GANNI Printed silk-satin wrap mini dress, $135
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ACNE STUDIOS Lavern leather dress, $672
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
SHOPPING PROMOTION
EDIE PARKER Soft Lara metallic chainmail and acrylic box clutch, $763
BALMAIN Crystalembellished velvet mini dress, $1,400
PAUL ANDREW Serkan embellished suede pumps, $398
EDIE PARKER Flavia Ribbon two-tone glittered acrylic box clutch, $538
LELA ROSE Fil coupé midi skirt, $593 SAINT LAURENT Silver-plated crystal clip earrings, $548
ISABEL MARANT Felipe leathertrimmed embellished linenblend jacket, $1,283
ZIMMERMANN Adorn asymmetric sequin-embellished metallic lace mini skirt, $660
ANYA HINDMARCH Silver-tone shoulder bag, $788
Ellery The Riff Bros lamé top, $397
Available at theoutnet.com
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
FACEOff
chiara V.charo
One is the ultimate fashion influencer; the other is the iconic Spanish-American comedienne (and flamenco guitarist!). How do Chiara Ferragni and Charo (whose full name is María del Rosario Mercedes Pilar Martínez Molina Baeza, BTW) stack up?
chiara
charo
BORN
BORN
During the Truman administration
When Pee-wee Herman was a thing
HOMETOWN Cremona, Italy
SIGNATURE PHRASE
SIGNATURE PHRASE
“The Blonde Salad never stops.”
“Cuchi cuchi,” as if you could forget!
HOMETOWN Murcia, Spain
LOVE INTEREST
LOVE INTEREST
Kjell Rasten, a Swedish film producer and onetime contestant on Celebrity Wife Swap
Fedez, an Italian rapper
MODELING CRED
MODELING CRED
She’s covered 28 mags, from Italian Grazia to Vogue Turkey.
Your dad thought she was the most beautiful woman in the world…in 1982.
6,045 Instagram followers and everyone who’s ever seen the The Love Boat
10.2 million Instagram followers…and counting!
GO-TO POSE
TV CREDITS
Graced Project Runway as a guest judge
SIGNATURE COIF
Perfect blowout, perfect highlights
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Swathed in an impossibly luxe look that probably costs more than a Prius
TV CREDITS
GO-TO POSE
Whatever shows the most T&A
Totally rocked it on Dancing With the Stars, despite an 11th-place finish
SIGNATURE COIF
A half-ponytail, framed by loose ringlets
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FAN BASE
FAN BASE
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ERICA YOUNG ‘06 Director of Performance Digital Marketing Kenneth Cole Productions