february 2020
bringing it
back jeremy scott dishes on his totally ’80s collection!
millennials get
nostalgic minimalism vs. the max
lim college STUDENT EDITION
made in the shade...
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EDITORs’Letter
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Remember
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When...
Editor in Chief
Erica Fouts Managing Editor Claire Charlton Editorial Director Nicol Maciejewska Fashion Editors Pamela Kivi, Kimberly Richman, Christina Vartanian Market Editors Khayla Biscoe, Adekemi Savage, Destiny Tejada, Jade Williams
BACK IN THE DAY
Kate Moss flanked by models at Chanel S/S 1998
LIM Publication Supervisor Prof. John Deming
Daily Consulting Team Creative Director Dean Quigley Contributing Executive Editors Alexandra Ilyashov, Tangie Silva Deputy Editor Eddie Roche Photo Editor Hannah Turner-Harts Art Director Teresa Platt Copy Editor Joseph Manghise Imaging Specialists George Maier, Nola Romano
To advertise, call (646) 768-8101 Or e-mail: advertising@dailyfrontrow.com The Daily Front Row LIM College Student Edition is a Daily Front Row Inc. publication. Copyright © 2020. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva, 810 Seventh Avenue, Ste. 400A, New York, NY 10019
Millennials are widely considered to be the most nostalgic generation in history. Considering the countless number of TV reboots, our reverence for R&B from the early aughts, and fashion’s current obsession with all things ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s, it’s clear that we have a soft spot for relics of the past.
Additionally, we discuss our love for days gone by with Jeremy Scott. The Moschino designer relays his greatest inspirations and favorite retro aesthetics to give us some background on his Pre-Fall 2020 collection. So if you’re feeling sentimental, you’ve come to the right place. Get ready to take a trip back in time. —The Editors
pierre verdy/afp via getty images
In this special insert, LIM College students honor nostalgia’s impact on fashion. Our editors share their favorite NYC thrift stores, reflect on the revival of ’80s maximalism and ’90s minimalism, and select items to help you construct an homage to the early 2000s.
On the cover: Joan Smalls in Moschino Pre-Fall 2020 collection, photographed by Randy Brooke/Getty Images
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WHAT goes AROUND... Secondhand shops to hit for luxe vintage finds
DON’T CALL IT A COMEBACK!
dolce & gabbana spring ’20
Nostalgic looks from the ’80s, ’90s, and more have been emerging from our closets for years. Corsets, halters, and even tracksuits are just a few looks that have resurged since their prime decades ago. Meanwhile, minimal chic streetwear is having a moment as well with the likes of Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Victoria Beckham, and Kim Kardashian rocking them on the red carpet. Before you go Marie Kondo on your wardrobe, resurrect these long-lost pieces…you know they’re in there!
gcds spring ’20
The ultimate Minimalist motto? “I love color, but I want it in flowers, not clothes.” —Calvin Klein
ARTISTS & FLEAS Located in Williamsburg, the multifaceted flea market offers a unique experience for every customer. It’s a creative haven for artists and vintage collectors to sell the products they cherish. Awoke Vintage The company partners with designers, stylists, production companies, and other vendors to curate a diverse selection of products. The company is known for sourcing a variety of pieces to stylists to create beautiful looks from any period. Rebag Known as designer handbag heaven, it uses a standardized condition grading system that immediately evaluates the resale value of more than 10,000 bags from 50-plus designers.
original inspIration!
ROUNDUP: LET’S GET NOSTALGIC LIM students weigh in on their childhood obsessions. Discuss and enjoy! BEST CHILDHOOD MEMORY? Playing “Just Dance” with my whole family every Saturday when I was 11 years old. FIRST SONG YOU REMEMBER HEARING? A lot of rock and heavy metal music, thanks to my dad! NAME OF YOUR FIRST PET? Alejandro, my fish. CRINGIEST THING YOU DID AS A KID? Spinning around like a ballerina while watching Barbie of Swan Lake. I got a scar on my chin from that! —Arly Flores, Fashion Media Major
CRINGIEST THING YOU DID AS A KID? I forged my mom’s signature on a detention slip. I wrote her nickname, no last name… in pencil. ONE THING THAT YOU DID AS A KID THAT YOU DON’T DO NOW? I don’t eat packets of sugar anymore. WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GREW UP? I wanted to be an apple. I’m completely serious! CHILDHOOD CRUSH? Justin Bieber —Savannah Winstead, Fashion Media Major
FAVORITE CHILDHOOD MOVIE? Bratz! Jade inspired me to work hard in school and also to be my most fabulous, fashionable self. WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GREW UP? I wanted to be a ballerina so that I could wear a skirt every day, and no one could stop me from doing so. CHILDHOOD CRUSH? Nick Jonas. How could anyone not have a crush on him after his iconic “Introducing Me” song from Camp Rock 2? —Leticia Hsieh, Fashion Merchandising Major
ONE THING THAT YOU DID AS A KID THAT YOU DON’T DO NOW? I used to take karate; now I miss it. WHAT DID YOU WANT TO BE WHEN YOU GREW UP? I would watch That’s So Raven, which inspired me to be a fashion designer. —Caitlyn Ade, Fashion Merchandising Major FAVORITE CHILDHOOD MOVIE? Freaky Friday. NAME OF YOUR FIRST PET? Sierra—she was a black lab. CHILDHOOD CRUSH? Ricky Martin. —Gabriella Sutherland, Int’l Business Major
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Paris Hilton’s tracksuit was so iconic, it ended up on her wax figure at Madame Tussauds, while Christina Aguilera’s “Dirrty” phase made corsets highly covetable as daywear.
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Fashion. Business. Education. Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu
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designerFocus
CANDY
MAN
As creative director of Moschino, Jeremy Scott has revitalized the Italian label while simultaneously injecting a much-needed sense of fun and whimsy into the industry. Often taking unexpected cues from pop culture iconography— think Looney Tunes, Barbie, and the Powerpuff Girls—and decades past, there’s no doubt that he’ll go down in history as one of the most defining creative voices of the era. Here, the visionary shares a bit about his past, present, and future.
Early in your career, you interned at Moschino. How did that job shape your understanding of the brand? When I was in my senior year of college at Pratt, I interned at the Moschino press office in New York. I definitely saw the DNA of the brand up close and had a clear concept of [founder] Franco Moschino’s vision—the humor, the elegance, the pomp with a tongue-in-cheek nod to the inherent nonsense of the theater of fashion itself. Tell us about your Pre-Fall 2020 collection! What made you want to focus on NYC? Although I have spent more than half my career
showing in New York after having left Paris, Moschino had never shown in New York and I wanted to bring the show to this vibrant city I love. I could not imagine doing so without paying homage to the city itself and the unique vibes the inhabitants exude. I thought a lot about wanting to do the show on the subway for the past year. We tried to convince the MTA [New York Transit] Museum to allow us to have this opportunity, so I was thrilled when I got the final go. Then I knew exactly what I wanted the collection to be—all the things I love and think about New York and riding the subway when
I went to school in Brooklyn. More than any piece of clothing or style, it’s an attitude that I wanted to show. The collection had a somewhat retro vibe. True, there are nostalgic overtures to the ’80s, ’90s, and early ’00s but on the flip side, these are things that are still very much in play today and relevant in a modern wardrobe. Even if I’ve played with the scale of some of these classics, they’re still staples of contemporary dress. Even the beaded gowns at the end may harken back to the 1930s. They are also a red-carpet staple for Hollywood over the past few decades. Ever since I first
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BY PAMELA KIVI
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started dressing myself and creating my own personal look in junior high and high school, I always mixed decades, styles, genres, and genders in my own way of dressing. It’s inherent in me and therefore comes out in my work. I love a juxtaposition of ideas that gives off vibrations; that’s what makes it unique and exciting to me—when it vibrates. Why do you think this generation is so nostalgic for the past? I don’t believe it’s just this generation that is nostalgic. I think it’s human nature. We are nostalgic creatures! Even in the ’60s, there were stylistic references to the ’20s; in the ’70s, a Victorian reference was expressed in a more relaxed way; and the ’80s saw a ’60s revival, to name just a few. What decade or era have you been gravitating toward lately? I don’t really think of it in these strict terms of decades. I see everything from the past being an amalgamation of where we are today. I am a post-modern designer. Why do you think maximalism is so popular today? Honestly, I think that part of the reason is that most of us view our lives and other people’s lives through Instagram, where a pair of black pants and a super decent top do not create the same impact as something bold, colorful, fun, or dramatic. This, I’m sure, is coupled with geopolitical reasons that will be more clear in retrospect, but I say, long live maximalism because it’s way more fun than minimalism! How long is the process to create each collection? This is a partly simple answer as it’s very mathematical. I have basically six months from show to show, but within this time frame I have to hand in my designs early enough for the first fittings, the ordering of fabrics, the dyeing of custom colors, and, of course, the prints. Depending on the time of the year, some collections I have to hand in just days after I have just had a show and some are handed in prior to having shown the most recent collection. You have to remember, right now I have six fashion shows a year—that would be just roughly every two months if it was on an evenly divided schedule, but of course that is not how it works! I also still have collections to do that are not part of the shows. Whether they are capsule collections or collections for men, there are a lot of things I’m working on between Moschino, my own line, and the collaborations I do. My process is cyclical, overlapping, and constant. I am working on ideas sometimes over a year in advance, having the seed of a collection and trying to figure out where to plant it! Then there are just moments of creativity that come out of nowhere and overtake your plans, as that is part of the mystery of creativity. What can we expect from the upcoming Fall collection? Something rich, decadent, and sweet! What designers do you feel most inspired by? One of my personal heroes is Rudi Gernreich. I loved his relationship with [model] Peggy Moffitt, and the modern
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“i don’t believe it’s just this generation that is nostalgic. i think it’s human nature. we are nostalgic creatures!”
ALL ABOARD! Moschino Pre-Fall 2020, shown at the New York Transit Museum
yet playful designs and images they produced together. I have been blessed to have witnessed Karl [Lagerfeld] working up close in my years in Paris because of our friendship, and that was illuminating. I will always have love and respect for him in my heart. There are so many wonderful designers who have created their own worlds, and I admire that most, as I believe that is the true goal of a designer—to be able to conjure up their own world for us to dream and to inhabit! What advice do you have for fashion students and young professionals entering the industry? On a practical level, I say intern, volunteer, and be part of any and all the aspects of the industry you can to learn more and educate yourself. The fashion industry is so vast and multifaceted. The more you can learn and understand from experience, the more you are equipped to succeed. On a personal note, always follow your heart. People will tell you what they think is right for you, for your designs, what they think will sell or be right—listen to them, but always follow your heart and do what you feel like is your truth. The ultimate success is happiness, and one only finds that when they follow their own path.
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STARKContrast
To The
SO BOLD (Clockwise from top left) Satin and smiles, Dior Fall ’88; Billy Porter’s gilded glam 2019 Met Gala arrival; Kardashian-Jenner fabulosity; floral faux fur, Shrimps Fall ’19; dramatic proportions, Christian Lacroix Fall ’87
MAx As recent runway photos and retailers’ racks can attest, minimalism and maximalism are both going strong. How did these radically different approaches to style become so cool—and are they complementary or incompatible ideas?
Minimalism operates under the theory that “less is more.” This aesthetic includes designs with clean lines and structure, and has been on the forefront of fashion because of the sustainability movement. Minimalism is commonly associated with sustainability because minimalistic clothing can be timeless, reducing any fashion waste that can come from more frivolous clothing. Besides the influences of this movement, there is another reason for the minimalist reaction. “The minimalism trend has been on the runway for the past two seasons,” Roopal Patel, Saks Fifth Avenue’s fashion director, tells The Daily, “but it really ignited after Phoebe Philo left Céline. Designers saw an opportunity to fill the minimalism space.” A number of brands that have risen to the occasion with sleek, chic wares, such as The Row, A.W.A.K.E., and Khaite have been making gains. But this reserved style isn’t anything new; the ’90s took this concept by storm and created countless pieces designers today are trying to re-create and reinvent. Maximalism, on the other hand, is all about the extreme. Think: clothing that’s over the top, maybe even ironic or theatrical. Last year, the Metropolitan Museum of Art celebrated all things maximalist with its “Camp: Notes on Fashion” exhibition, filled with important clothing with exuberant details, including Giambattista Valli’s tulle gowns and a Gucci suit that was saturated with logos. The Met Gala featuring the same theme—with a fittingly joie-filled, jaw-dropping red carpet full of celebrities done up in the more
daring, boundary-pushing, and just plain fun designer creations. Meanwhile, contemporary brands like Molly Goddard and Shrimps are also exploring the more-is-more approach for everyday occasions, with voluminous, bright, layered ruffles and Technicolor faux furs. Bold, unconventional style has also been celebrated in the LGBT+ world for many decades. “By the mid19th century, camp became associated with the queer community,” notes Andrew Bolton, head curator of The Met’s Costume Institute, on the museum’s website. Gender nonconforming designs are increasingly cropping up in contemporary collections as well. Thom Browne’s Spring 2018 collection demonstrated the duality of fashion in one of his looks that featured a
reference to a bride and groom, with the front being a tux and the back a wedding gown. This aesthetic’s peak was during the ’80s—which, three decades later, luxury houses like Gucci, Valentino, Prada, and Versace still frequently reference. Certain designers associate themselves with either exuberant or restrained fashion design. An example of a minimalistic brand would be Calvin Klein, while brands like Moschino would consider themselves maximalists. Throughout history, one fashion aesthetic has typically reigned supreme, and what’s trending typically echoes our current social and cultural reality. Yet both maximalist and minimalist style can coexist, sometimes even on the same catwalk. For example, Raf Simons’ Spring 2011 collection for Jil Sander, a brand long
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BY NICOL MACIE JEWSKA
LESS IS MORE (Clockwise from right) Subdued nude, Calvin Klein Spring ’96; minimal and monochrome, Isabel Marant Fall ’19; sleek column gowns, Calvin Klein Fall ’96; minimalism patron saint Kate Moss, Versus Fall ’97
(From left) Models Jerry Hall and Marie Helvin at ’82 Royal Ascot illustrate ’80s excess at its finest.
“i say long live maximalism, because it’s way more fun than minimalism!”
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—jeremy scot t
celebrated for its minimalism, toyed with maximalism by playing with proportions. Some designers have stayed faithful to a crisp, quiet, sleek vibe instead of conforming to prevailing trends of the era. For instance, during the ’80s, Calvin Klein was still creating minimalistic collections while most of his industry peers were going all-in on splashy, flashy looks and shoulder pads galore. “There was always a woman who didn’t want to look like you could see her from three blocks away or she didn’t want to display opulence,” Calvin Klein told WWD in 2017. “She was more sophisticated and quieter in the way she would dress, and there were women like that all over the world. That was the woman I was after. Those women evolved, but they didn’t go from A to Z overnight.”
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The spike in extravagance in fashion social media is a huge reason for fashion’s return to extravagance, according to designer Jeremy Scott, who’s creating some of the most over-the-top fashion today for his own brand and as Moschino’s creative director. “In the tiny screen of Instagram, a pair of black pants and a decent top do not really convey the impact of something bold, colorful, fun, or dramatic,” Scott tells The Daily. He’s an emphatic champion of dressing in excess, for a simple yet compelling reason: “I say long live maximalism, because it’s way more fun than minimalism!” Lots of street-style regulars and influencers chronicle their more-is-more approach to getting dressed, like Man Repeller’s Leandra Medine and Courtney Trop (aka @alwaysjudging), who excel at combining kitsch with
luxe. They mix colorful pieces, play with proportions, and aren’t shy when it comes to sequins or lamé, from brands like Saks Potts, Paco Rabanne, and Dries Van Noten. By contrast, other influencers champion minimalism by consistently opting for neutrals and simple yet structured silhouettes. Fashion bloggers Christie Tyler (aka @nycbambi) and Garance Doré cherish brands like Proenza Schouler, Totême, Nanushka, and Isabel Marant. There’s a practicality perk of minimalism, too—it’s timeless, and thus more wearable and trend-resistant, so you’re more likely to hold on to things for longer. Luckily, whether you’re all about making a splash via fashion or are most comfortable in simple, understated outfits, there are covetable runways to inspire you, this season and beyond.
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CHICPredictions
ECO FOCUS Sustainability is a big priority for fashion brands and consumers alike.
fashion
Forecast What does the future of fashion look like? From a heightened focus on sustainability to exciting new technology that’s changing the shopping experience IRL and online, the style outlook is promising. Gradually implemented over the past several years, these efforts will hopefully be in full swing in 2020. Here’s to another decade of product innovations, sizing inclusivity movements, more sustainable practices, consistent runway changes, and rule-breaking! BY TINA VARTANIAN
As in your closet, not just separating paper and plastics. Buying pre-loved pieces is more popular than ever. At least a third of Gen Z (aka, those born between 1997 and 2012) is expected to buy secondhand clothing, shoes, or accessories this year alone—a 46 percent growth rate from 2017, according to Gen Z Insights, a marketing trends platform. Secondhand shopping makes stylish and trendy items more affordable, while also saving the planet. According to online/digital consignment platform ThredUp’s
Save the Planet initiative, “If everyone bought just one used item instead of new this year, we would save almost 6 billion pounds of carbon emissions. That’s the equivalent of taking half a million cars off the road for a year.” Currently, 26 billion pounds of textile waste ends up in landfills annually; that has to change. One impactful shift? Evolving the way we shop. The designer luxury resale market structure has changed drastically, thanks to luxury consignment sites like Rebag, The RealReal, Vestiaire Collective,
and Fashionphile. These sites allow consumers to resell their luxury goods and accessories through a free authentication process in which experts, such as authenticators, gemologists, and horologists, pay close attention to detail when vetting products. This process has become all the more difficult in today’s society, due to the extensive attention to detail in counterfeit merchandise, especially in feigned luxury bags, which have advanced their abilities to replicate even the most minute details of luxury bags.
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It’s All About Recycling…
Brick and Mortar Retail, Reinvented A variety of tech innovations have transformed the e-comm experience in recent years, making it easier and faster to indulge in some retail therapy from the comfort of your couch. As a result, people are doing less browsing (and buying) in brick-and-mortar stores. After all, it’s tough to beat the convenience of shopping in your pajamas. This has led to a number of major retailers, like Macy’s, to close a number of locations in recent years. In 2019, Lord & Taylor bid adieu to its 10-story flagship store in New York City, while another iconic department store, Barneys New York, went bankrupt and is in the process of shuttering completely. Such eliminations of brick-and-mortar stores are forcing retail companies to reassess, even overhaul, what it’s like to shop in person, through the creation of experiential shopping opportunities. These experiences are targeted toward consumers who need a reason to visit the store beyond buying goods, and want to personally connect to the process when shopping in retail environments. Recently, stores like Foot Locker and Saks Fifth Avenue have restructured their flagships to include experiential aspects in order to get consumers through the door. Foot Locker has also opened two “Power Stores” in NYC where consumers can shop family looks from favorite brands like Nike and Adidas. The Power Store also allows consumers to shop digitally in-store through the Nike app. In this way, NikePlus members are able to access exclusive products and services, like Nike scan, to check inventory. The Power Store also includes the NikePlus “Unlock Box” and “Shoecase.” The “Unlock Box” serves as a vending machine for loyal customers where members can unlock free limited-edition items; alternatively, the “Shoecase” will reward members with early access to Nike’s newest sneaker releases.
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The Ever-Evolving Fashion Calendar Along with the drastic changes in the retail landscape, the Fashion Week calendar has revolutionized itself, as showing biannually has become outdated. Designers are now showing their collections during off seasons, and deviating from typical runway hot spots and fashion capitals. Ralph Lauren even presented a recent collection in his own personal garage (pictured at right). Similarly, catwalk shows by Maison Margiela and Alexander Wang have been held at their ateliers and on the streets of New York City this past fall.
Increase in Inclusivity As retailer’s racks and designer’s catwalks become gradually more inclusive in terms of sizing, some talents are taking it a step further by completely ditching traditional sizes altogether. That’s exactly
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currently, 26 billion pounds of textile waste end up in landfills annually; that has to change.
TOTAL GEMS There’s an uptick in secondhand retail, from indie vintage boutiques (above) to high-end designer resale platforms, like Rebag’s luxe accessories (below).
what newer fashion brands, like Zeba, owned by YouTuber Nabela Noor, are doing. Noor compares the “old sizing standard” to the “Zeba sizing standard,” converting categories like XXS to 4X into Zeba sizing categories, such as “passionate” and “independent.” The goal: making clothes that are inclusive of all shapes and sizes, while promoting body positivity in an empowering way.
Menswear Gets Multifunctional Various brands designing for hommes are rolling out multifunctional innovations in their designs, especially in the activewear space. For example, Hill City and several other companies have created quick-dry board shorts, designed to wear from high sweat to swim conditions, ideal for on-land or in-water purposes. The adaptability of multifunctional garment innovations is to provide ease to the wearer when they’re going from one activity to another with little effort.
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chicMusts
bottega veneta fall ’19
gucci fall ’19
Firstview (3); all others courtesy
valentino fall ’19
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alix nyc Myrtle one-shoulder stretch-jersey thong bodysuit, $195, net-a-porter.com balenciaga mini oval metal sunglasses, $299, matchesfashion.com
PRADA Opanca leather slingback pumps, $750, mytheresa.com
off-white logo cotton-jersey hoodie, $610, mytheresa.com
LIFE AQUATIC
tl-180 Anouk lizard-embossed leather handle bag, $640, modaoperandi.com
MAGDA ARCHER X marc jacobs Intarsia sweater, $795, marcjacobs.com
stella mccartney classic blazer, $1,465, farfetch.com
Battle those winter doldrums with a splash of sea-hued blue. Instant mood boost!
Firstview (3); all others courtesy
the attico high-rise pleated cotton-blend trousers, $886, matchesfashion.com
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amina muaddi Lupita PVC sandals, $615, modaoperandi.com
gucci GG Marmont flap Matelasse velvet mini bag, $1,045, rebag.com
dior nail lacquer in Blue Drop, $28, dior.com
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kiddingAround
total
Chayan What was your favorite song as a kid? Any Britney Spears song, probably “Sometimes.” What was the cringiest trend from your childhood? Bowl cut, and it was not my decision. It was my mom’s. Next question, please. What did you want to be when you grew up? I wanted to be an illustrator, actually. I would doodle a lot.
throwback Fashion is always looking to the future while also reminiscing about the past. So we got nostalgic with tourists in Times Square about childhood crushes, favorite snacks, career aspirations, and more. Spoiler alert: It’s all about Britney!
Nicole Who was your first celebrity crush? Orlando Bloom. What was your favorite song as a kid? “Hit Me Baby One More Time,” by Britney Spears. What was the cringiest trend from your childhood? Bubble backpacks.
Hallie What cartoon character would you be from your childhood? I was just watching A Bug’s Life, and I’m literally Princess Atta. Julia LouisDreyfus, back in the ’90s, being nervous about everything…that’s me. What was your first cell phone? It was a Verizon flip phone, and I slammed it in a car door. Then I got a Razr, and I felt like the coolest person ever. Who was your first celebrity crush? I remember being really into John Mayer when I was, like, 14.
Hannah Rose What was your favorite snack as a child? This is something that not everyone likes, but I love black licorice. Disney Channel or Nickelodeon? Disney. What is the dumbest thing you posted on the Internet? Oh, God! There’s too many. When I was in sixth grade, I broke both of my arms at the same time. I posted a photo of me on Facebook with casts on both arms with some weird inspirational quote like “Trek on,” or “Keep doing you,” or something!
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Arbor Who was your first celebrity crush? I think it was Johnny Depp, because I watched Pirates of the Caribbean. What was your favorite song as a kid? “Womanizer,” by Britney Spears. I used to go crazy with that one. What was the cringiest trend from your childhood? I took part in every cringe-y thing that was going on. I think the worst was when everyone was using Myspace. Yeah, I used to be obsessed with Myspace.
Joe What is the dumbest thing you posted on the Internet? Old YouTube videos from 2006 of me doing stupid stuff with no narrative. What cartoon character would you be from your childhood? Finn the Human from Adventure Time. What was your first cell phone? A mint green, chocolatecolored slide phone.
Othella Who was your celebrity style icon? It was probably Miley Cyrus or Selena Gomez. What did you want to be when you grew up? A singer or an actress. But I don’t have the voice, so…yeah. What do you think people will be nostalgic about from the last decade? Some good Disney shows from our childhood.
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Fashion. Business. Education. Find your perfect fit at LIMcollege.edu
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