PT E M AY, SE MOND
y l s u o i r e s
, 2011 BER 12
! d i d n e l p s n o s a j & daphne
plus: soirÉes, pop-ups, le dish, and more
OH MY LORD & TAYLOR It’s the Tahari cape, and it’s $170 too!
SHOP THIS LOOK AND MORE AT LORDANDTAYLOR.COM/TAHARI VISIT OUR FLAGSHIP STORE ON FIFTH AVENUE AT 39TH STREET
lordandtaylor.com
september 18.19.20 2011 the Javits Center . nYC 11th avenue @ 37th street
9am - 6pm sun/mon . 9am - 5pm tues www.enkregistrations.Com www.enkshows.Com/Coterie
T:10.25”
Safety never goes out of fashion. Introducing the all-new 2012 M-Class.
T:13”
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Lea Michele
Theophilus London Tommy Hilfiger
Dee Hilfiger
your daily dose
JASON WU
MEN’S R E G I F L I H TOMMY
HEARD
“People are looking for someone that expresses a millennial generation. Jason has a fresh eye. It’s as simple as that.” —Suzy Menkes
Sarah Easley
“What’s the wackiest interview you’ve ever had?”—Daily reporter to James Marsden at the Hilfiger afterparty. “This one,” said Marsden. “Have you ever conducted an interview?” inquired Daily. “No, but can I interview you now?” Marsden replied. “How does it feel to be here?” “Real original,” deadpanned Daily.
Jaime King
SEEING CLEARLY! With Eric Wilson
Linda Fargo
Where are your glasses? I had Lasik surgery last month. Did it hurt? Yes, for a few seconds. It takes time to recover, but every day I feel sharper and more focused. Do you miss glasses? No, I only wore them for a year. I wore contacts forever. Some wear glasses as a fashion statement. That’s a little more work than I’m willing to do for fashion right now.
In honor of the fashion event formerly known as M.A.C & Milk, The Daily wondered… WHAT’S THE LAST THING YOU...‘MADE’? Kim Hastreiter: The last issue of Paper. It has my fingerprints all over it. I wrote four articles! Linda Fargo: A beef tenderloin. Wes Gordon: My bed this morning. Anna Dello Russo: My original headpiece. Waris Ahluwalia: Eggs. Raul Melgoza: This morning, I made a pencil skirt. Anne Slowey: My baby. Joanna Coles: Love. Mandy Coon: A chiffon cape. Tavi: Probably poop. Joey Jalleo: New curtains FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
for the bedroom. Theophilus London: A drink. Simon Doonan: Wind chimes. I get super crafty on the weekends. Tommy Hilfiger: A sketch of my first design—bell-bottom jeans—for a writer from a Mexican magazine. Kellan Lutz: I made a dog statue that I painted all over, and now it sits inside my house. It’s like if the Jetsons had a very simplistic dog. We named it Dixie. Phillip Bloch: Whoopee. And I ain’t talking about Goldberg!
Jamie King: I couldn’t stand the look of all my electronics and my TV, so I bought fabric to create a beautiful shade. Corinne Bailey Rae: I’ve been collecting wool from thrift shops to make an American blanket. Kate Lanphear: My omelet. I’m pretty into Mexican. Mickey Boardman: Bad jokes. Malin Akerman: I make my own t-shirts. Nothing crazy—I buy second-hand and cut them up. Karolina Kurkova: A green fruit smoothie. Iman: A needlepoint pillow for my daughter.
RAPPING! With Tommy and Dee When is your son Rich [Hil’s] album dropping? On the runway... TH: Soon! What are your rap names? TH: Her name is Dizzle. DO: No! It’s “Dizzle with a Shizzle.” TH: And my name is Tommy Bomby, or Tommy the Bomb. What’s your favorite rap song? TH: “Big Pimpin’” by Jay-Z. I know all the words. DO: I like 50 Cent. Go shorty! TH: It’s your Ed Westwick birthday. DO: I used to know all the words to “Rapper’s Delight.” ‘Hotel, motel, James Marsden Holiday Inn…’
MUCH! LEARNING SO About Kellan Lutz
Kellan Lutz
Any vacation plans? I’m actually going to Israel with my mom for eight days. What magazines are you loving right now? I read SkyMall the most, but I love magazines about antiques, hunting, and gadgets. Everybody is drinking Brooklyn Lager here. This is my first beer in months. I’m a whiskey guy. I love Jameson. Do you ever get hungover? Not really. I only get hangovers if I don’t drink water throughout the day. I drink so much water on a daily basis.
ON THE COVER: DAPHNE GROENEVELD IN JASON WU SPRING / S U M M E R 2 0 1 2 P H OTO G R A P H Y B Y F I R S T V I E W ; PAT R I C K M C MULLAN.COM (18); GETTY (5); SHUTTERSTOCK
Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Eyes: ExpertWear ® Eyeshadow in Golden Halo. Lips: ExpertWear ® Eyeshadow in Turquoise Glass, Shine Sensational™ Lipgloss in Minty Sheer.
S:10.25”
S:13”
YOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWAY
© 2011 Maybelline LLC.
doutzen kroes
in italia, but missed!
george wayne
alexa chung
alessandra ambrosio
ellen von unwerth
your daily dose caroline winberg lauren hutton
bar refaeli
rty armani pa
SCENE
Vladimir Restoin Roitfeld and Andy Valmorbida are not exactly synonymous with “uptown,” but they did hit the UES (along with the rest of the fash pack, and team Giorgio Armani) to unveil Richard Hambleton: A Retrospective. ☛ Although it pains us to do so, a bit of Lindsay Lohan news: In an effort to avoid the paparazzos at Cynthia Rowley, she waited in her car outside Lincoln Center until the lights went down. So the show started late and chaotically! Le sigh.
S! THE DRINK COUNTING
with marcus wainwright i just love a good suit. this is my liquid armor! you know, i was the first woman to wear thom browne menswear. my old agent loved him—before he was, you know, thom browne—so i got to meet him. he didn’t have a women’s collection yet, but he got inspired seeing me in his clothes! —karolina kurkova
white wine, obviously! —gucci westman’s preferred means of dealing with nerves
how did your show go this evening? I’m actually quite drunk at the moment. really? I’ve had wine, beer, a little champagne… what’s your post-show sentiment, in a word? Relief.
ashley brokaw
pamela drucker mann and frank falcinelli
david neville
ER IT DINN T É P P A BON ne
bo for rag &
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
marcus wainwright and sylvana durrett
giuseppe zanotti cynthia and natali germanotta
giovanna battaglia
GOOD, OLD-FASHIONED FLIRTING!
With Adam Rapoport at Frankies 570 Are you feasting or famished? I’ve got to fit into all of my skinny jean s, skinny ties, and skinny jackets, so I can’t hav e too many meatballs tonight. Although I could eat about 40 of those fried rice balls with Bolognese inside. Any good feasts recently? I was just in Italy for two weeks, and we were in Liguria, where pesto sociology! with Vampire Genovese comes from. So I was just weekend’s sitting on the beach eating homema de ezra koenig pasta with the brightest, greenest, freshest pesto I’ve ever tasted in my whole life, and a how’s your bottle of cold white wine. It was just week? perfect. You’re going to read all about it in next May Very un-busy. ’s issue. Any hints? favorite avorite designer? Good olive oil, great Parmesan, and Ralph [Lauren]. really good basil. As with most excellent Italian food, Sometimes he gets a if you have good ingredients, keep it simple, and don little weird, but he’s ’t f*ck it up, you’ll be alright. the man. I like him on a Which designer could get you to wal sociological level. k the runway? Oh, if you ask me, I’ll be there! I’m an He grew up in the Bronx, attention whore like that. I can actually do a very changed his name, good runway walk, because I went to seven years’ and created worth of shows. But are we talking about a Dolce & this ridiculous, Gabbana walk? Because that’s very different from a huge brand that Junya Watanabe or Dior walk. appeals to a lot How? of people The Junya guys look really cool and for some low-key, while the Dior models seem angry and inte bizarre nse. The Dolce guys are about shine, sex appeal, and reason. waxed chests. Does Rapo have a signature swagge r? When you’re growing up in the D.C . public school system like I did, you’ve got to have good walk in the hallways, or else you don’t get any resp ect. I got mine down early on, and I was on the bask etball team, so I had it pretty good. a r m a n i p a r t y : b i l ly f a r r e l l / b f a n y c . c o m ; b o n a p p É t i t d i n n e r : w i l l r a g o z z i n o/ b fa n yc . c o m ; g e t t y; s h u t t e r sto c k
LUNCH, ANYONE? up resElettra Wiedemann’s poped by taurant, Goodness (present the Ed’s The Daily!) is taking over West Chowder House space at 44 er 14. 63rd Street until Septemb from 7 Delectables will be served table at a.m. to 3 p.m.; reserve your goodnessbadness.com!
U DURO OLOW
your daily dose HEARD
THE DAILY WONDERS… DO YOU HAVE ANY TATTOOS? Lorenzo Martone: I have bats, a key, and a couple of words written on me: dreamer, New York City and sex. Rose McGowan: I’m having mine removed. It cost $200 to put on and 12 grand to get off. I was stupid! Mickey Boardman: To make a splash with tattoos, you have to be splashed from head to toe at this point. I once had plans to get one of Queen Victoria. I’m a monarchist and royal history lover! Charlotte Ronson: I have one tattoo, for my twin sister, on my hip. Selita Ebanks: Mine says Una Vita—“one life.” And three stars representing the Cayman Islands, where I’m from. Brad Goreski: That’s a major commitment for me. I can barely hold on to the same bag for more than three weeks. Christian Siriano: I have a squid and an octopus. They don’t mean anything. I just wanted a tattoo! Ellie Goulding: I’m thinking about getting some writing on my arm, but I won’t tell you what it is! Zanna Roberts Rassi: If I was brave enough, I’d have The Daily written on my lower back. Steven Kolb: I have three. Lotus flowers, cold and hot balance, and a button. Kate Lanphear: Of course! Too many to count, but they’re all in hidden spots. The one on my foot was given to me by the guy who got away. That’s how we met!
“I love to tote everything with me, beRKINSON GREGORY PA cause you never know. Who do you think people come to when they need an Advil? I’m equipped.”—Linda Evangelista at Alexander Wang. ☛ “Jean-Georges [Vongerichten] served lunch, and everyone ate on real plates. We’re talking about china!”—Mary Alice Stephenson on Wang’s backstage scene. ☛ “My son, because my daughter is too big to fit inside.”—Robbie Myers, on what she would DOUBLE TAKE! ideally stash inside one of Wang’s golf bags. ☛ “He’s a With Mary Alice Stephenson sexy old man. When he walks, he looks like royalty.”— What’s your hidden talent? Selita Ebanks on her nine-year-old Pekingese, Prince, I’m a really good dancer. I’m a hipat Ruffian. ☛ “The must-have accessory is going hop lover. In fact, I used to rap! to be big black and blue wounds.” —Karlie Kloss at What?! Prabal Gurung, sporting a mountain biking injury on I had a rap duo. I was Snow White, and her knee. ☛ “Soho. Let’s not mention the hotel.”—Brad my friend’s name was Rock Candy. Goreski on his Fashion Week crash pad. ☛ “Living Can you lay down a lyric right now? in Tribeca is really intense. I saw the uniformed fire“This little ditty is for a cool fighters out there in their dress blues….it was a very motherf*cker named The Da-ily!” sober start to my day. I feel very heavy. Sorry I’m not How did you get into rapping? talking about shoes.”—Amy Astley at Jill Stuart. When I was growing up near Detroit, I used to sneak out of the house and go see Run-DMC and Public Enemy. Do you believe it? This glamour girl has got her groove on. Fern Mallis and George Kolasa
Robbie Myers
ext N n o i h s a F E L EL WHEN AT THE STANDARD…
FERN AT THE 92Y! Whitney Port
Ms. Mallis is hosting a lecture series entitled “Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis.” The program kicks off September 15 avec Norma Kamali; Calvin Klein gets the FM treatment on October 17. Nab tickets at 92y.org.
Julianne Hough
Go ahead—get your shop on. Theodora & Callum has popped up with a scarf-filled boutique that’s open daily from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Spring 2012 Trend Color Preview! At the Wes Gordon show, Maybelline New York Global Makeup Artist Charlotte Willer put the beauty emphasis on the brow (not the eyes) and lips this season. “The skin is dewy, the brow is strong and the lip pops with a sheer wash of color,” she explains. Want the look now? Apply a light coat of the FitMe! Foundation to even your skin tone and then swipe the apples of your cheeks with the FitMe! Blush in Medium Coral. Choose a Define-A-Brown pencil a shade or two darker than your own but leave those eyes au naturel! Finish with some Color Sensational Lipcolor in Very Cherry topped with Baby Lips Repairing Lip Balm in Quenched. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
E L L E E V E N T: J O E S C H i L D H O R N / B FA N YC . C O M ; B F A N Y C . C O M ( 4 ) ; G E T T Y ( 4 ) ; P A TRiCKMCMULLAN.COM (3); SHUTTERSTOCK
THE DAILY WONDERS: What’s your dream piece of NYC real estate to own? Yigal Azrouël: “A townhouse in the West Village, with a garden and pool.” Jen Kao: “A single family brownstone with a big kitchen and a bat-cave-inspired garage; a totem pole driven through the center of the home which also serves as a staircase, and breaches through the roof with a hawk on top; a teepee for indoor, weekend campouts...and a rooftop pool. Preferably on the West Side Highway.” Wes Gordon: “The penthouse of The Pierre!” Christian Siriano: “Of course most people would love to have a beautiful townhouse in the West Village and I would love that as well! But I like to live in the moment, and the moment is now. So I already live in my dream apartment in Chelsea.” Rachel Antonoff: “The townhouse with that spiral staircase on Commerce Street, next to the Cherry Lane Theatre.” Frank Muytjens, head men’s designer, J.Crew: “I love the herb garden in the New York Botanical Gardens.”
your daily dose What You BOUGHT
Carly Cushnie: “I want to live in a glass tower with 360-degree views and a glass ceiling!” Michelle Ochs: “I want to live in the firehouse on Great Jones Street.” Chris Benz: “One of those Bing & Bing penthouses on top of a building, with trees and vines hanging over the balconies!” Marissa Webb, head women’s designer, J.Crew: “I’ve had my eye on a brownstone on 10th Street between University and Fifth Avenue.”
(And How Much You Paid!)
hippest pint-sized twins are W head honcho Tonchi and beau David Maupin’s twee duo of tots. They’re crawling all over this three bedroom abode in the ornate Osborne building, which features 15-foot ceilings, a half-dozen fireplaces, a huge library, and palatial dressing room for the dapper dads. Tonchi traded up on all accounts: the August move swapped the former West Village digs, sold for a reported $3.27 million, to head north in price and Gotham geography.
RESIDENT: Derek Lam NOW LIVES AT… 92 Greene Street PRICE OF CHIC: $4,650,000 THE SCOOP: The designer’s 2,177-square-foot triplex temple of sleekness is decked out in Brazilian hardwood floors and three RESIDENTS: Stefano Tonchi & bedrooms, on one of Soho’s most stylish stretches. Lam loves the David Maupin ’hood, apparently, considering his NOW LIVE AT…The Osborne, May move to new digs just a block West 57th Street from his former apartment. Guess WHAT IT COST: the grass was pretty green on $4,100,000 THE SCOOP: Move over, Greene—why would anyone stray, non? MK and A! Fashion’s
The Latest TOWER of CHIC!
WELCOME TO 400 FIFTH AVENUE
Some hotels are so sumptuously, outrageously chic, the thought of checking out can be too much to bear. The Setai Fifth Avenue is one such venue, brimming with luxuries both decadently familiar (room service, perhaps?) and gloriously exotic (care for a jaunt in the Turkish hammam or ice cave, anyone?). Fret not, chicettes on the market for the parfait Gotham pied-à-terre! The secret is out among the haute set about 400 Fifth Avenue, the luxe condos perched above the Setai. The Daily got the scoop from Prudential Douglas Elliman’s Karen Mansour and Andrew Anderson. What’s the hard sell? There’s no need! We have a Fifth Avenue address, an iconic design, unparalleled finishes, with residences that soar above the city skyline and offer mesmerizing views. Oh, and a five-star luxury hotel beneath our residences offering all the amenities one could desire. Why live here? 400 Fifth Ave. is in the center of the city giving you easy access to all of New York in a matter of minutes. Gwathmey Siegel & Associates Architects in tandem with Bizzi & Partners Development with interiors by DAS Concepts has delivered a building to rival the standard of the luxury city lifestyle. The level of service, attention to detail and fivestar amenities are incomparable.
Stats, please! There are 190 units, and we’re approximately 40 percent sold. What kind of person would love to live at 400 Fifth Avenue? It’s for someone who’s drawn to the hotel lifestyle. It’s very exciting and sexy to live in that kind of atmosphere! Let’s talk amenities. Well, the Auriga Spa offers a Turkish hammam and steam room, ice cave, plunge pool, experiential showers, sauna, and massages. There’s also the Technogym fitness center, personal training, plus the Julien Farel hair salon and mani-pedis. As a resident you have access to maid service, car service—and room service, of course! Any famous residents? We have a few famous soccer players, plus an NBA player.
Which historical fashion figure would have lived there? Yves Saint Laurent. It has a level of finish, sophistication and couture that would certainly speak to him! What are the three coolest haunts in the ’hood? Bar on Fifth for drinks, fun and jazz (Setai Hotel, 400 Fifth Ave., 212-6954005) Birreria, the beer garden at Eataly, for outdoor enjoyment and a more laidback downtown environment (200 Fifth Ave., 212-937-8910) Koi for sushi, sake and celebrity (40 W. 40th St., 212-921-3330) What’s your favorite bell and whistle at 400 Fifth? It’s tough to choose! But if I had my druthers it’s a daily steam in the Auriga Spa’s grotto. PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (8); SHUTTERSTOCK
Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too. Belvedere Vodka 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) 100% neutral spirits distilled from rye grain. ©2011 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY.
T RU S T YO U R I N S T I N C T S
N AT U R A L LY S M O O T H M A K E I T B E LV E
®
F A C E B O O K . C O M / B E LV E D E R E VO D K A
Tell ALL
HERRERA
DEMYSTIFIED! The collections, the smile, the coif, the attitude—is everything in Carolina Herrera's universe drop-dead gorgeous? For once and for all, we demanded to know how she does it. Hint: it's all about teamwork... BY ASHLEY BAKER Photography by Giorgio Niro FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
We have a mild crush on your creative director. Hervé has been with me for nine years, almost 10. He’s a very important part of my business. We have a fantastic team, and we have a lot of interns, too, which is very nice. They are all a part of the show! We are extremely democratic here. We vote on everything: Do you like this look? Should we drop it? Do we need a ruffle here? You're a writer. You can't write with many people around, but with me, it's a very different thing. I could never do this alone. Oh—have you met Walter? Who’s Walter? Hervé’s belly. That’s what we call it. Why is it called Walter? That's just what he calls it. I will cover it with my elbow in the photo. He surely appreciates that! After 30 years, does Fashion Week still retain its novelty? Yes, but it’s always very exciting when the show is over. I know the show is arriving when I have this nightmare that comes every year: the tent is full of a thousand people, and I come out and say, 'Please, please, you have to come back— I’m not ready!' Our rituals before the show are always the same. During fittings, we have lunch; we've been into salad for quite some time—very healthy, very boring. We've been working with [makeup artist] Diane Kendal and [hairstylist] Orlando Pita for a long time, and they are very important. I always like the girls to look fresh and beautiful. l put together the looks with [stylist] Tabitha Simmons and my daughter, Patricia. Did you spend a lot of time with your family this summer? For the first time in years, I spent it in New York instead of going to Europe. I was in heaven! I visited friends; I went to Maine to visit Patricia... Did you see the McQueen exhibit at the Met? Of course! I loved it! McQueen was about more than fashion—he created objects. In his work, you can see how tortured he was. Are people dressing better today than ever? I don’t think so. The other night, I was watching a movie about the life of Joan Crawford. You cannot imagine how glamorous that woman was at every hour of the day. You wouldn't see her going around in tennis shoes and a hat and no makeup, with a Starbucks cup in hand! Now, women want to look less put-together, because they think it makes them look younger. They consider 'elegant' to be old-fashioned— they would rather be considered 'cool.' Sometimes, it doesn't work. Movie stars have a responsibility—they can't look like everybody in the streets! It’s lovely when people dress up. Do you read People and Us? No, no. I don’t have to read those to be on top of fashion. Who are your favorite models? [Casting director] James Scully and I cast the new girls together. My favorite of all time? When I started, it was Dianne deWitt. Mounia, who modeled for [Yves] Saint Laurent, was fabulous, too. And Daria Werbowy...Oh! My favorite! Christy Turlington. What do you think about Marc Jacobs at Dior? There are no French designers in French houses anymore! I love Marc. He’s fabulous, and he's loved by the press. I hope he's as fabulous as Galliano! Will Galliano have a second act? Of course he will. I’m positive—he’s too talented. You have to realize that he wasn’t himself. He was totally drunk. He couldn’t remember what he said. How can you judge somebody like that? It’s very sad. I don't think he was very well protected. The Dior couture show in July... My God, it was good for the circus! They lost a great talent. Listening to any good music lately? From Mozart to Lady Gaga! I'd go to one of her concerts in a second. I'm a great admirer. Her speech at the Costume Institute Gala was quite something. She has a great voice, and she has helped fashion—you can see many Lady Gagas in the streets of New York! People who want to be half naked are delighted.
HERVÉ PIERRE, creative director HOMETOWN: New York, NY ASTROLOGICAL SIGN: Libra GREATEST LESSON FROM MRS. H: “A female designer has a completely different way of designing clothes than a man does, for the good reason that she wears these beautiful clothes that match her lifestyle.” SECRETS OF THE CH AESTHETIC: “The creative process is the same as in Paris; a sketch, a canvas, a dress.” FAVORITE CH RITUAL: “Escorting Mrs. Herrera to her car every day. I love observing the crowd on Seventh Avenue as they watch the most elegant woman stop traffic! ”
KATELYN BISCHOF, studio coordinator HOMETOWN: Goshen, NY ASTROLOGICAL SIGN: Aquarius GREATEST LESSON FROM MRS. H: “How to remain elegant all day, every day.” SECRETS OF THE CH AESTHETIC: “I love how every piece looks effortless and chic, while always incorporating great attention to detail and quality.” FAVORITE CH RITUAL: “When the entire design team tries to squeeze into the tiny kitchen so we can all eat together.”
Jenny
Katelyn
Hervé
Philina
JENNY SWANK, associate designer
PHILINA FAN, design assistant HOMETOWN: Hong Kong ASTROLOGICAL SIGN: Aries GREATEST LESSON FROM MRS. H: “You can be absolutely fabulous at 8 a.m. There are no excuses!” FAVORITE CH RITUAL: “Turning on my desk lamp in the morning. It took me approximately three months to remember to do it! But it reminds me that beauty is all in the details.”
Ludwig
LUDWIG HEISSMEYER, design director HOMETOWN: Hamburg, Germany ASTROLOGICAL SIGN: Leo GREATEST LESSON FROM MRS. H: “Never leave your house without consulting a full-length mirror.” FAVORITE PART OF THE CH AESTHETIC: “It's constantly evolving, yet never fails to be elegant, glamorous and chic.”
HOMETOWN: Valier, MT ASTROLOGICAL SIGN: Taurus GREATEST LESSON FROM MRS. H: “You should never show the same dress twice. Dresses can be sisters, but never twins…” FAVORITE CH RITUAL: “Before every show, we put all the looks on racks in a circle and call it ‘Around the World.’ It is the first time we really get a chance to see the collection completely finished.”
FINALLY! MRS. HERRERA'S BEAUTY SECRETS Why did it take us so long to ask? WORKOUT: “Mostly walking, although I haven’t done anything lately. I have a machine in my house that I do for a half an hour most days. What’s it called…you move like you’re skiing…? A NordicTrack! I also live in a house with four floors, so going up and down them is good exercise, too.”
MAKEUP: “I use Sally Hansen foundation, and I always wear the same plum lipstick by Bobbi Brown. I bought every single one before it was discontinued, but now, I’m out. Will you please ask her to make one for me? Overall, it’s not a big effort. If you invite me to a ball, I’ll be ready in 15 minutes.”
DERMATOLOGIST: “Pat Wexler. I think she’s the best, no? I use her products, too.”
SALON: “Gerard Bollei. Linda has been cutting my hair for years; Gladys does my nails. I go there every week!”
For the
REcoRd
MAX AZRIA CLEARS THE AIR!
Why all the turnover? Our company is 22 years old and, every 10 years, it’s good to refresh the group. We are very excited about the new people coming on board as well as the existing structure of the company that gave us, once again, unbelievable strength during this time. We have a beautiful smile on our lips. We have over 11,000 people in my empire, all over the world: America, Canada, Japan, Spain, Switzerland...Growing our workforce is one of my top priorities. I take my time to find the people of quality who will join the group for the long term. What was wrong with the old regime? There are no old regimes and new regimes. We can always improve, that’s it. We have a very stable company. Of course, we make some mistakes, but they are good because we never make them twice. Which areas would you like to improve upon? I would like every department—and we have about 75—to improve by 10 percent. I have 75 small-ish issues, rather than 75 mega-big ones. We correct them one by one. How’s Lubov’s new creative team faring? I trust my wife 200 percent. She’s very committed and passionate— and she’s a workaholic. But with all due respect to her, we have 20 or 25 people in her department that deserve an award. The creative team, in total, is huge! Their innovation is the best part FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. c O m
Rumors, rumors, rumors! With the recent departure of his president and several key members of his creative team, the fashion world is buzzing: What’s happening over at Max Azria? Much ado about nothing, claims the designer and mogul. BY ASHLEY BAKER
of my business. Why aren’t you showing Max Azria at Fashion Week? Well, we were doing three shows— and that was pushing it a bit! It was a decision made out of respect for the market—and it’s a good way to save money, too. What is your response to reports that BCBGMAXAZRIA was headed for Chapter 11? Listen to me: the writers who wrote that kind of stuff are idiots. First of all, to write something without knowledge of the company, without ever having talked to the company or me—how can people publish that? They must be fired. Maybe they write ugly things to sell more papers? They shamed themselves; I have a smile on my lips. But I’m not proud—we take our corporation, our people and our country very seriously. Where do you see the company going in the next five years? Well, about 15 years ago, I put my feet in the ground in Canada, Japan, and Hong Kong, among other places, and I hope to grow more in this direction. I would like to grow internationally while exporting American fashion all over the world. Now that’s good for my company, it’s good for my country, and it’s good for my people. FIrSTvIeW; GeTTy
The
s u p i m atition
d e s ig n c o m p
e
Next Generation
Of Chic
ts Rachel Zoe Prese1n1 Award 20 Jusil Carroll With
And The
NexT
generation IS...
Clique The Fourth Annual Supima Design Competition Welcomes a New Chic
A
nd then there was one. The leading design schools in the U.S.—Rhode Island School of Design, Fashion Institute of Technology, Savannah College of Art & Design and Pratt Institute—each nominated their top two graduating seniors to compete in Supima’s Fourth Annual Design Competition. The eight finalists created capsule collections of five eveningwear looks that debuted in an elaborate runway show on September 8th at Lincoln Center. But it was F.I.T. grad (mentored by Lisa Donofrio), Jusil Carroll, who took the top honor of the evening, beating out a select group of elite design student finalists. Besides winning the coveted $10,000 prize to help jumpstart her designing career, her collection was seen by a slew of top industry names. Plus, there was the elite panel of judges, including Supima VP of marketing, Buxton Midyette, designers Nicole Miller and Charlotte Ronson, Gilt Groupe founder and CMO Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, Bloomingdale’s VP, Kevin Harter, and supermodel Coco Rocha. And a major bonus came in the form of the night’s emcee and celeb stylist Rachel Zoe, who happily presented the award, which brought out an ecstatic Carroll onto the runway. But Carroll was not the only winner of the night, as many in the audience noted the high-quality level of all the finalists designs. See you at the competition next year? You can bet on it!
NER THIS YEAR’S WIN
Jusil Carroll, F.I.T.
Busan, South Korea native Jusil Carroll, 34, graduated from F.I.T. with a BFA in Fashion Design this year. Her competition collection was inspired by The Blair Witch Project. “I love the idea that each person interprets the witch differently and all they are left with is a sense of mystery and thrill.”
Amy LyNN BiTTNer, F.i.T.
THE FRONT ROW
THE FINALISTS “I AM TOTALLY BLOWN AWAY!” RaChel Zoe —Ra Emcee
mAru JuNg, PrATT
CONNie WeNg, r.i.S.D.
DArA rOSeN, PrATT
rACheL PuLLmAN, r.i.S.D. JUDGES: COURTESY SUPIMA; RUNWAY: GIORGIO NIRO; FRONT ROW: GIULIA PICCARI
Even More Designs
FrOm The FiNALiSTS THE JUDGES (up CloSe!)
ChArLOTTe rONSON Designer
keViN hArTer Vice President, Bloomingdale’s
COCO ROChA Supermodel NiCOLe miLLer Designer
BuxTON miDyeTTe VP of Marketing, ALexANDrA Supima WiLkiS WiLSON Founder & CMO, Gilt Groupe
mArLOW LArSON, S.C.A.D.
LOreNA CueVAS reSTrePO, S.C.A.D.
Why a contest? Why now? The WhOLe ThiNg STArTeD because Supima had something to prove. After more than five decades of successfully supplying the world’s finest cotton to the world’s finest labels, Supima’s status as the “softest” and “strongest” was a given. The fashion world already associated its premium extra-long staple pima with the finest shirtings, the most skin-friendly knits, and the sturdiest and most supple denims. But Supima cotton could also do what other cottons, other natural fibers—and even most artificial fibers—could not. its yarns could be spun as fine as a cobweb and still stand up to infinite machine washings. its fabrics could withstand the harshest dyes and the most extreme “distressing” treatments—without losing any of that luxurious Supima feel. Supima, the Phoenix-based marketing association that represents American growers of premium pima, knew that even its devoted customers hardly realized the potential of its product. So, in 2008, Supima decided to hold its first Competition for emerging Designers. The overnight success of the contest in various print and online publications only confirmed what Supima already knew: The contest should continue annually. “We’re showcasing the next generation of fashion talent,” says Buxton midyette, VP of marketing for Supima. “At the same time, that talent was also showcasing the possibilities of Supima. And we’ve already been getting calls about the 2012 competition!”
a Shout out to the fa b R i C S u p p l i e R S : w w w. a l b i n i g R o u p. C o m
w w w. C o t o n i f i C i o b o n o m i . C o m
w w w. f e S S l e R u S a . C o m
w w w. K u R a b o . C o . J p
MIS SED IT? CheC K it o ut at Supim faSh a.Com/ ion-w eeK!
S:10.25”
R A M PA G E
© 2011 Rampage
R A M PA G E S T Y L E
I R I N A S H AY K
FOR S:13”
A P PA R E L , F O O T W E A R , I N T I M AT E S & A C C E S S O R I E S
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runway
Spring 2012
JASON WU Nothing flashy, nothing outré—just the lavishly detailed separates that build a major business. Wu has learned enough from Oscar to target the wide, deep-pocketed audience for these kind of clothes. But his youthful joie in the face of elegance is largely unrivalled. Another step ahead.
A jaunt to Montparnasse for a Ghesquièreesque, paint-splattered Sixties sentiment. We like! We’ll buy! Especially Frida’s sexy gown, which any black tie-wearing babe deserves.
trend BEAUTY
Best hair of the week so far comes courtesy of Odile Gilbert for Kérastase. The feathered nests chez Wu reflected the gamine spirit the designer tends to channel.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PRABAL GURUNG wU: GiOrGiO NiNO; GUrUNG: firstview
firstview
runway
Spring 2012
rag& bone Sporty chic:
mais oui, it’s a trend. But chez Neville and Wainwright, wearability is all. If these basics appear complicated, it’s all in Vanessa Reid’s great styling.
suno
They were ready for the runway. Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty could have stuck with kangas. Instead, they built a legit collection. Softer and mass-appealing, it’s more intriguing with each season.
the row
Layers of white, intriguing
proportions, a dramatic disposition— the Olsens’ homage to Ann D. isn’t the first we’ve seen this week, but it is the most successful. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M firstview; courtesy the row firstview
dOwnLOAd Our frEE APP And shOP On thE GO mAn
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runway
Spring 2012
vpl
A little palatecleansing never hurts. Victoria Bartlett’s idea of a trim, layer-lightened silhouette translated into nifty scuba separates and swimsuits worth fasting for. The minimalism is working.
Stadium chic! Darling Wang has oodles of stores to fill, and his endless riffs on le sport still manage to surprise. Will his downtown girl ever graduate from this directional (if un peu specific) look? Not for now—but maybe someday...
alexander wang FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
wa n g : g i o r g i o n i r o ; v p l : f i r st v i e w
firstview
© Danskin 2011
S:10.25”
MOVE FOR CHANGE
Boxing is extremely gratifying, and the hardest workout you’ll ever love. It just makes you feel stronger inside and out.
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S:13”
- Padma Lakshmi
danskin.com
Danskin’s Move for Change initiative proudly supports Padma Lakshmi & the Endometriosis Foundation of America, a non-profit organization helping women suffering from endometriosis. Get inspired & join the Danskin journey at www.danskinmove.com
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FASHION Meets
trend BeAUTY
runway
Spring 2012
BEAUTY
CND’s Wandra Ruiz captured the energy with a checkerboard nail motif, courtesy of CND’s Wanda Ruiz using CND Colour in Raspberry Parfait and a custom blue.
Fashion and beauty collide in the form of Parsons School of Fashion professor, Ann Frank. Besides teaching, she shares her fashion know-how with patients at the 5th Avenue Dermatology Surgery & Laser Center directed by her brother Dr. Paul Jarrod Frank. Turn back the clock and get free fash advice? We had to get the scoop! tell us about your position at Parsons? I am a part-time Assistant Professor in the department of Fashion Design and I teach a contextual study of fashion history from antiquity through the present. I am a fashion, culture, and design historian so the course includes all facets of the arts including film, literature, and the decorative arts. so, how did you end up working with your brother? My mother made me! Just kidding! Truthfully, we were always close. He needed help starting his practice; we found out very quickly that our skills and knowledge base were very complementary. Fashion and beauty are quite similar. Creating and managing an environment that enhances my brother’s training and aesthetic eye was my vision. what do you do at the practice? The list is very long and ranges from office manager to publicist to patient concierge. At the core, I micro-manage most aspects of the practice to ensure that the patient experience is flawless. When it comes to managing a surgically accredited medical facility, there is a lot of monitoring to do. do a lot of fashion types come in? New York City is the epicenter of fashion, culture, and design. Those involved in these industries are particularly drawn to our practice. do patients want to “talk fashion” once they find out what you do? Absolutely, fashion and design always make for great conversation. And because of the nature of my brother’s work, there is often waiting or downtime for people in the office, allowing me to get to know our patients. Have you ever been to fashion week? I always look forward to the spirit of this time of year! It’s also exciting to see former students and friends who have developed their own lines and formed successful careers in the field. Fashion Week in New York is unlike anywhere else. There is a different energy with the vast cultural influences this city has to offer. your brother is very fashionable but what’s your “look”? I like clothes that tell a story and my tastes are quite varied. I favor a novel twist on the classics, which always creates a conversation piece. My absolute favorite is Sonia Rykiel; I have been collecting Rykiel since I was a teenager starting with my mother’s pieces from the 1970s and 80s. I am particularly drawn to Rykiel’s Left Bank Parisian chic style and the hint of vintage historicism in her designs. She is sophisticated, classic, spirited, and whimsical. I also love the Victorian and Art Deco influences in Ralph Lauren, and the modernism of Chanel. How do you think fashion meets beauty? Coco Chanel once said, “Fashion is architecture; it is a matter of proportions.” This also applies to physical aesthetics and it is exactly what we do in our practice.
Nicole’s cacophony of patchwork motifs, checkerboard patterns, and everything else you wore in the Depeche Mode era will be back in full force next season. Darling—get this on Gaga!
nicole miller
lUcA lUcA
Bonjour, sophisticates. Raul Melgoza is determined to shed Luca Luca’s mature image, and this plucky offering will get the job done. The color! The prints! The fresh take on evening! Yummy, all of it. firstview
miller:giorgio niro, courtesy cnd; luca luca: firstview
速 www.michaelantonio.com
runway
Spring 2012
YIGaL azROuร L New proportions? Grazie.
A clean and mean offering from this downtown doyen who is giving New York the very best of Paris and Milan.
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BOY and GIRL La garรงonne
on the prairie? Believe it. Scott Sternbergโ s nostalgic prints and body-uncon silhouettes are only half the funโ that Band of Outsiders tailoring is the enduring message. a z ro u e l : f i r st v i ew; boy a n d g i r l : ra n d i a l eg r e firstview
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Marilyn Martillo - Sales Events, Chanel USA, Inc. Fashion Marketing and Management, B.S., Class of ‘07 “The education and the preparation that I received from Berkeley College helped me be successful in my career at Chanel. I got the core elements that are necessary to thrive in the business of fashion from the curriculum, the professors, and the internship. I am very proud to say I graduated from Berkeley College. The entire experience had a very positive impact on my life.”
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Get the Scoop! Tell us about the center. How did it come about? Through the vision of Mark Adelman, MD, Chief of Vascular Surgery, and Lowell Kabnick, MD, Director of NYU Vein Center, the need, development, and establishment of the first University Vein Center in New York occurred at NYU in 2007. This center was developed with the patient in mind as a complete Vein Center, with expertise in all areas of venous diagnosis and treatment. Can I prevent varicose veins? While you cannot entirely prevent varicose veins, there are several methods to improve your vein health. At the Vein Center, we utilize conservative measures before and after intervention. We suggest physical activity, graduated compression stockings, skin moisturizer, proper nutrition, and avoidance of standing or sitting in place for any period of time without leg movement. What causes varicose veins? The actual cause of varicose veins are unknown. However, the dilatation or stretching of the vein walls is believed to make the one way valves in veins non-functional. This “broken” valve then allows blood to pool in these veins leading to continued stretch of vein walls and continued rendering of other valves functionless. The bulging of veins, known as varicose veins, can lead to unpleasant symptoms such as aches, throbbing, swelling, and pain. Are varicose veins hereditary? There are several reasons for the development of varicose veins. Hereditary is the primary association in 80% of the varicose vein patients. Other contributing factors in developing varicose veins are: multiple pregnancies, obesity, hormone therapy, trauma, or prolonged sitting or standing in place. Years ago, I had my veins stripped but now they’re back. What do I need to do now? Vein stripping or any intervention does not treat the cause of venous disease, for example, heretidary and multiple pregnancies. However through proper and careful follow-up, physicians at the NYU Vein Center can reduce the recurrence rate of varicose veins. For an appointment contact: New York University Vein Center 530 First Avenue, Suite 6D NYC, 10016 (212) 263-8346 or 95 Madison Avenue, Ste. 415, Morristown, NJ, (973) 538-2000 www.nyuveincenter.org
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retailer locations Functional design and flawless prestige, this glorious futuristic and innovative collection creates a unique, extravagant statement for sophisticated fashion wearers. The lifestyle infused range of styles, shapes, textures and colors bring a sleek, aesthetic feel to luxury. Today, the 2012 Silhouette Sun collection debuts at the Pamella Roland presentation at Fashion Week. With 11 styles to choose from, in mood enhancing colors, accessorize with a touch of glam and celebrate the sun this season!
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miGHty mouSe cartoon Savior
nicola FormicHetti loudmouth overachiever
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