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Source: Internal Circulation Records
FALL FASHION ISSUE THE
Find WSJ. Magazine in WSJ Weekend, The Wall Street Journal’s weekend newspaper, and at wsjmagazine.com. National circulation: 1.5 million October Men’s Style Issue | November The Innovator Issue | December The Holiday Issue
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The
front row Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO
joie de D a
ily...
Perhap sy has wit ou noticed, d e h Paris Vogue e ar readers, a c and it’s ert dit n (we did ot just that we ors…It’s not j ain obsession us !! th g uncann ). What’s got u rew up worsh t that we love is publication P ip il s now, ta y Daily-esque hopelessly ho ping at the al aris (we adore ta st !), ok editrixe s. Goth ed is Vogue P r of Vogue In our e y Piggy!! ar Carine, x sexy Em is’ suite of pencha clusive intervi n ew manue lle, and is a LO t for swag, hun with this ne w fashi T more ger for on to Gu because we ado this season of rung and tak icon, we unvei re our rele e on M Dailies arc at D l her ntless a to surprise y t h a t w e o io p small c hildren petite for…vo u, amuse you, won’t reveal h r. There er u a in the n joyful r ewsroo s. Suffice it to nd tantalize yo e simply eunion sa m .H u it. Fash ion? C’e urricanes? W for weeks pre y that we’ve gi with p g st ho care For this s? L’éco ping for this m gled like week, w l’amour! n oment omie? W Parisian e leave of you wit e o ’ n l l o g u e t r h a quo ‘Be hap through eternal te p h We alw y. It’s one way aute list, the d from another ays, alw o i ays foll f being wise.’ vine Colette: ow her advice.
Executive Editor Ashley Baker Art Director Guillaume Bruneau Managing Editor Tangie Silva Photo Director Rick Boeth Senior Editors Eddie Roche, Alexis Clark Writer/Reporters Maria Denardo, Alexandra Ilyashov Copy Editors Allison Klein, Alexandra Taylor, Joy Wood Deputy Art Director Teresa Shaughnessy Senior Designer Sheila Prevost Photo Editor Ann Tortorelli Prod./Creative Services Director Allison Coles Imaging Specialists George Maier, Patrick Rumore Research Editors Shalwah Evans, Lixandra Urresta Group Web Manager Daniel Chivu Interns Stefania Curto, Megan Herlihy, Elizabeth Landers, Nick Mathis, Brian Paulson, Sydney Sadick
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The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row, Inc. publication. Copyright 2011©. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva,135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020. Printed by William Sherman, Vanguard Printing, LLC. Distributed by Jack Lynch, Lightspeed Express.
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fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
1. How is Steven Kolb celebrating his 50th birthday? A. Cruising through Nova Scotia B. Raising $$ for Charity Water C. A long weekend at DVF’s place in Connecticut D. An “Old Hollywood” themed foam party at Tenjune
C. At the Ritz-Carlton hotel on Central Park South, where he mistook her for a masseuse D. After one of his gigs at the Bowery Ballroom
2. Which buzzy up-and-comer is the beloved niece of Kate Spade? A. Rachel Comey B. The brunette from The Lake and Stars C. Whitney Pozgay D. Lyn Devon
5. Linda Fargo’s signature red lipstick is... A. Revlon’s Cherries in the Snow B. Tom Ford’s Cherry Lush C. M.A.C’s Russian Red D. YSL’s Red Muse
3. Which top global fashion critic actually wrote (and published), “One element of your look should be a little wrong. Otherwise, you’re not somebody we want to have sex with in Dumbo, Brooklyn.” A. Suzy Menkes B. Virginie Mouzat C. Bridget Foley D. Cathy Horyn
6. What is Banana Republic creative director Simon Kneen’s favorite gift? A. White peonies from Anna B. A long lunch chez Daniel with Mickey D. C. An iTunes gift card D. A gift certificate for the "Milk & Honey" at Jin Soon
4. Where did Betsey Johnson meet her boyfriend, drummer Bobby Graham? A. On Match.com B. At her former business partner Chantal Bacon’s annual July 4 clambake
A. Harper’s Bazaar UK B. Harper’s Bazaar US C. Cosmopolitan D. Esquire
A. Paris B. Barcelona C. Dubai D. Mexico City 11. What does Carolina Herrera call her design director Hervé Pierre’s belly? A. “Chou-chou” B. “Muffin” C. “Walter” D. “That”
7. Which Hearst glossy is omitted from this ad— although its publicist swears otherwise?
ANSWER KEY: 1) B, 2) C, 3) A, 4) D, 5) C, 6) C, 7) B, 8) A, 9) D, 10) C, 11) C, 12) B, 13) C
HOW’D YOU FARE?
0-4 CORRECT ANSWERS YOU ARE… Jerry Powers The fashion space isn’t your thing—all the reason you need us desperately, chéri! Have
8. Donna Karan recently vacationed in which farflung locale with her bestie Calvin Klein and his sprightly young boy-toy, Nick Gruber? A. Bali B. Bangladesh C. St. Barths D. Bethesda, MD
12. How many inches around was Hal Rubenstein’s waist when he first started going to Fire Island? A. 31” B. 27” C. 42” D. 38”
9. What will Simon Spurr never do? A. Wear aviators while dancing B. Get ultracompetitive at darts C. Spend Thanksgiving with his CEO, Tommy Fazio D. Wear jeans to a wedding 10. Where is power pub James LaForce’s third residence located?
your assistant (still got one?) print out all the old Dailys (be nice, now, and we’ll send you hard copies) and you’ll know all the critical stuff by the Marc show. 5-9 CORRECT ANSWERS YOU ARE… Jay Fielden You know your fashion, but you’re bound to broaden your horizons into art, travel, health...
13. Of all the stories published on FashionWeekDaily.com in 2011, which received most comments? Hint: many of them, we had to delete… A. The scoop about Marc Jacobs going to Dior B. The first story we published about John Galliano’s tirade at La Perle C. A kinda boring at-home story with model Julie Henderson D. Our Chic Report TV show featuring Grans on the Street!
Boring! Really. Get back into the glossy stuff and enjoy, enjoy, enjoy. 10-13 CORRECT ANSWERS YOU ARE… Lucy Yeomans Veni, vidi, Daily! You’re youthful, hell-bent on learning, and blissfully educated on what matters. Congratulations. Your tireless work will pay off. Big time.
G R E G K E S S L E R ; G E T T Y; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ; B FA N YC . C O M , G I O R G I O N I R O ; A D A M R O D R I G U E z
D
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Predicted Party Rankings:
1. V’s Black and White Ball on September 14 (expect Gaga!) 2. Calvin Klein Collection’s post-show dinner on September 15 3. The Armani cocktail on Saturday night in honor of the foreign press at the Armani Ristorante (paging Franca!) 4. Rachel Zoe’s birthday party tonight at the Dream Downtown’s Electric Room 5.The Bon Appétit dinner for Rag & Bone, hosted by David, Marcus and Adam
Triple! y l ai
Things to Discuss
drew Carey
Buddy Holly david Carey
your daily dose SCENE Could it be? The fashion stampede is here. You:
in your new Prada snakeskins, storming Lincoln Center. Your Daily: wearing the same, hunched over our Macs, pouring over your photos. We couldn’t be more thrilled to be covering your chic week with the addictive elixir of wit and wisdom you should never have to do without. ☛ Are we hallucinating? Is Lady Gaga on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar again? We still have the May issue (and Anna’s March behemoth avec Gaga in that divine Haider) on our desks! ☛ Oh yes! It’s Fashion’s Night Out! Stay happy and hydrated, warriors of style.
CELEBS TO OGLE!
1.Carine Roitfeld & Stephen Gan & Lucy Yeomans & Glenda Bailey: CAN YOU WAIT ‘TIL OUR MEDIA ISSUE? 2.The breathtaking FNO budgets of BG, Saks and Bloomingdale’s (we’re hearing six figures...) 3.The similarities (both visually and content-wise) between Town & Country and Field & Stream 4.“The New Barneys”— the new buyers, the new frontrow fixtures, the new designers they’re after! 5.How much you loved The Daily in the Hamptons; how you’d much rather be reading this today on Maidstone Beach.
NICOLA POPS UP!
Emily Mortimer at vPL
Leelee Sobieski at vPL
Nicki Minaj at Jeremy Scott
Emma roberts at Jill Stuart
Harley vieraNewton at Jill Stuart
Michelle Tractenberg at...everywhere Solange knowles at Jeremy Scott
devon Aoki at Jeremy Scott
kanye West at Jeremy Scott
Whitney Port at rebecca Taylor
Jordana Brewster at rebecca Taylor FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Formichetti is opening his first concept store, Nicola’s, at 57 Walker Street in Tribeca, to support BOFFO, a non-profit organization that aims to educate and inform the public through art exhibitions and events. How did this all come about? When BOFFO approached me, I didn’t even have to think about it. I really wanted to create a world that people can walk into. What will you be selling? There will be lots and lots of Mugler—all the hits! My new collection for Uniqlo and young designers like Sally LaPointe, too. I want it to be a mix of an exhibition and retail space. I’ll have some of Gaga’s outfits from her videos, but they won’t be for sale. The Little Monsters are going to love that! What else? I want to curate the store every morning with new things, so you have to come back every day to experience it. It’s going to be spontaneous—last minute surprises and performances. Please come! I’m a really good sales assistant. Why did you hold a contest to find the architect? I had to find one for the Mugler store, too, and the only people that I found on the internet and liked were well-known. Finding young designers is easy, but with architecture… I went with Clemenceau Architects. It’s very spacey. If you were a real merchant, you might worry about people getting headaches. I actually tried to study architecture. It was one of the reasons I moved to London when I was 81eighteen.1 How long were you in school? A week. I went in and went out the back door. G E T T y ( 1 9 ) ; PAT r I C k M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 2 ) ; G I O r G I O N I r O ; EvErETT COLLECTION; SHUTTErSTOCk
O N T H E C O v E r : A N N A W I N TO U r A N d F r A N C A S O z z A N I AT G I O r G I O A r M A N I P r I v É H A U T E C O U T U r E F/ W 2 0 1 1 - 2 0 1 2 , P H OTO By E r BA M A rCO/SG P M I S S P I G Gy: P E T E r k r A M E r /G E T T y
S:10.25”
© 2011 Maybelline LLC.
S:13”
Makeup artistry by Charlotte Willer. Lips: Eye Studio® Color Explosion™ Eyeshadow in Blue Blowout, Eye Studio® Color Plush™ Silk Eyeshadow in Sapphire Siren, Shine Sensational™ Lipgloss in Minty Sheer.
YOUTUBE.COM/LIVERUNWAY
BOÎTE TO DIsCUss:
the Electric room Following the closure of his legendary club Don Hill’s, Nur Khan is back with The Electric Room, located on the lower level of the Dream Downtown. It only holds 100 people, and the vibe is “cool Brittania” with Union Jack covered couches. Photographs by Sante D’Orazio and Marilyn Minter grace the walls, while a separate entrance decorated by street artist Harif Guzman will draw you in. “I think it will appeal to everyone from the downtown artist to the uptown social,” says Khan. Sans doute. This week, it’s hosting bashes for Jade Jagger and Rachel Zoe. Naturally, we’ll see you there!
Gary wassner
HEARD
Rachel Zoe
Oh joy! Michael Bastian has a new blog you can obsess over! The adorable sunshinedaysblog.com, rife with inspiration, Bastian-isms and backstage nonsense from the Gant’s Fash Week prep. Expect chinos and Eugenia cameos!
Free associating with Maybelline New York’s newest spokesmodel Lisalla Montenegro
Nur Khan
reVerTINg TO CHILDHOOD! With Gary Wassner, Co-CEO of Hilldun Corp. and CFDA Angel!
what’s the story with this delicious book? It’s a children’s book for fashion-curious kids under 10 called Isabella Cucharella, Fashion Designer Extra Ordinaire! 50 percent of the proceeds will go directly to the CFDA Fashion Incubator. You can download the digital version from iTunes/ iBook for $3.99. when did you start writing? 1996. I’ve published six books—currently FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
your daily dose
finishing the fifth and last book of my epic fantasy series, GemQuest. Do your mentees like Bibhu know you write fantafiction? Probably not. I don’t talk about it. OK, we’re quizzing you: which designers are best matched with these classic children’s book characters. Babar? Alber Elbaz. He has the same smile and he is a bit goofy, but so likeable.
Great Lash Mascara is turning 40-years-old. Where do you think you’ll be at 40? I would love to have my own business, maybe a spa or a salon. And of course, married with kids! Who are your favorite models of all time? Cindy Crawford, one of the sexiest models ever! Also, Christy TurlingCindy Crawford ton. What’s your favorite part of modeling? I get to play dress up every day! It’s Lisalla Montenegro not an easy job, but it’s very rewarding. What’s the last thing that you got for free? I feel guilty getting things for free. I usually give it to MUSICIAN my sisters.
WATCH!
Madeline? Sonia Rykiel. superfudge? Alexander McQueen— nothing negative intended. But look at that mischievousness and irreverence! Curious George? Thom Browne. Almost Pee-wee Herman-esque, but with a lot more style.
Without further ado, the best of the best of this week’s concerts: CHAKA KHAN! Performing at Hugo Boss’ FNO party at PH-D LCD sOUNDsYsTEM! Hitting the Electric Room on Friday, September 16 sAM BIsBEE! At the Nanette Lepore show THE ROOTs! At John Varvatos’ FNO party
speaking
greek
with Diesel Black Gold designer sophia Kokosalaki
sophia Kokosalaki
what’s new, chérie? We are opening the first ever freestanding DBG store in the next couple of months in NYC. what’s the one thing you always do in New York? Go to DUANE READE and Barneys. what’s the one thing that every American should do in your native Greece? Visit the new Acropolis museum, but also visit the old archaeological museum in Athens. It’s full of masterpieces. what should we eat there? Go to a fish tavern by the sea, or a small taverna in Plaka. Avoid places with photographs on the menu. who were you named after? My grandmother. My name means wisdom. How many times a week do you wear denim? Probably five. How many times a week are you likely to be seen wearing black? Probably five! How do you say “your show was heaven!” in Greek? “Emfánisi sas ítan parádeisos.”
G E T T Y ( 6 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 5 ) ; fIRsTvIEw (3); sHUTTERsTOCK
Belvedere is a quality choice. Drinking responsibly is too. Belvedere Vodka 40% ALC./VOL. (80 PROOF) 100% neutral spirits distilled from rye grain. ©2011 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York, NY.
T RU S T YO U R I N S T I N C T S
N AT U R A L LY S M O O T H M A K E I T B E LV E
®
F A C E B O O K . C O M / B E LV E D E R E VO D K A
T D K AR L , A AN NA AN ACED R G H E DUO T ! !! ’S Y C MA QUARE ON HERALD S TO UNVEIL TUESDAY CAPSULE K AISER’S N. COLLECTIO
M
AG.CO YOU REACT TO ROOKIEM
OH TAVI!
Simon Collins
JEANS AT FASHION WEEK?
Your Daily has seen the fash-fatigue phenomenon first-hand. Fifteen-yearold Tavi Gevinson seems to have come down with a particularly bad case of it. She told NYMag.com: “I get kind of sad when I look at all of my magazines and think about how at one time I was much more impressed with a certain fashion editorial, or how I feel like I can’t really relate to being that excited about fashion anymore.” Thoughts?????
BELIEVE IT! True Reli-
your daily dose Tavi Gevinson
“Anyone who discourages a creative powerhouse from expressing herself, or dismisses a project that has the potential that Rookie has, should seriously reconsider his or her role in the very bright future of interesting journalism, fashion or otherwise. That said, we live in a world where a Google search for “20th century dollhouse miniatures” returns over 132,000 results. (Yes, I know this.) And if you don’t like what Tavi’s come up with, feel free to use the Internet to find something else to read. I find myself happily beyond the epoch of teenage angst, but I’ll be staying tuned to see what else this girl comes up with.”
HEARD ON TWITTER! @AskMrMickey
I’m officially overwhelmed. Just to keep you updated. @Kevin_Nealon I’d read more but its too much of a hassle to find the index in Cosmopolitan magazine. @carlscrush “No funny business” always means “at least a little funny business.” @DVF When you are discouraged, focus at the light at the end of the tunnel...the light will get brighter. love, Diane.”
—STepHAnIe WInSTon WolKoFF
“How old is she? Good for her. I have to admire her drive.” —AlInA CHo, Cnn
“I think it’s a great launch off of her blog to something more concrete. It gives a younger generation of fashion followers someone to look up to and a media source to turn to for fashion. It’s very authentic and organic—a fresh view of fashion and culture for a new generation.” —YIGAl AzRouËl
“When it comes to teenage girls, I’m clueless.” —STeven KolB
NO COMMENT! “Can you share who else is doing the roundup?...Thanks for thinking of Anne [Slowey] for this. We’re going to have to pass but please feel free to reach out about any other items you are working on!” —ELLE puBlICIST “We’re going to pass on this one.” —JAne pRATT’S puBlICIST
Carolyn Murphy
gion is making its first-ever formal FW appearance with a slew of initiatives—including a denim-focused panel discussion at The High Line Room at The Standard at 6 p.m. on Sunday. Moderated by TR’s design director Zihaad Wells, Michael Carl, Carolyn Murphy, and Simon Collins will talk Michael Carl denim and its place in the fashion industry before bringing everyone outside for cocktails.
Designer Stephen Burrows is celebrating his 45th year in the business—and he was also a one-time Halston friend. In light of Laura Holson’s recent Sunday Styles tell-all, The Daily wondered… What did you think of the Halston article, Stephen? It’s very hard to replace Halston. There was only one. I wish them all the luck in the world, but I don’t know if anybody can ever revive that. It’s such a monumental thing without the man himself. It seems like no one can do it. So many people have done it and it doesn’t work. Did you know Halston personally? Yes, of course. We’re from the same era. We became friends out on Fire Island, and remained friends until he died. What would he think of this? He’d be… [laughs] very upset. Halston was a very competitive, opinionate man. He would be very upset about the whole thing from the beginning with them trying to replace him. It seems impossible! Marie Mazelis did a good job at BCBG, though. Who would you ideally like to see take over? I think Ralph Rucci would be great, but he has his own line, but he has the same aesthetic, that mini- Ralph Rucci malist and simple approach to fashion. If we could bring him back from the dead and ask him, would he want the line to discontinue? Knowing Halston, absolutely. He was a Taurus!
40thAnniversary MAYBELLINE GREAT LASH
Lash out in the chicest way possible at Maybelline’s Color Studio Hot Spot during FNO tonight, bringing the glorious fringe benefits of the brand’s iconic Great Lash mascara to the MePa’s Gansevoort Plaza. Meet the queen of kook, Patricia Field, snag one of her specially designed FNO T-shirts, grab one of the punchy pink and lime green tubes to take home, and get glammed with gratis mini-makeovers while DJ Chelsea Leyland provides the mood music. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M ( 1 3 ) ; Z U M A P R E S S ; S H U T T E R S TO C K
e exclusivw! intervie
le Pig, c'est Chic! l The most sensational, inspirational, celebrational gal we know, Miss Piggy, is off to the big screen on November 23 in The Muppets, and you’ll never guess who she’s playing. The Daily caught up with Kermit’s longtime paramour to talk Marc, Gaga and Frog—and she hasn’t changed a bit. BY EDDIE ROCHE
Congrats on the gig at French Vogue. You’ve come a long way since working Saks’ makeup counter with Joan Rivers in the'80s. Bonjour to vous, too! I adore The Daily. I read it…how often do you come out? Oh, I read it daily. Clever name; you obviously gave a lot of thought to that. As for moi’s gig—or as we say in Paris “le gig”—at French Vogue, it was a dream come true— for moi, and of course for everyone at French Vogue. How do you do it all? Fashion, love, movies, karate... I simply know how to use my time efficiently. I never stand up when I can sit down; I never sit down when I can lie down; and I never show up when I can use a stand in. But don’t worry; right now you’re talking to the real moi. Publicity is too important to trust to others. Have you really quit modeling forever? Oh no! What gave vous that idea? I love to model, to supermodel, to role model and even, on rare occasions, to build scale models. However, I am very particular about whom I model for…one doesn’t want to leave a photo shoot with a bunch of clothes you can’t wear again, or at least sell on eBay. So true! Tell us about the new movie! Have you finally snagged the frog? It’s called The Muppets, apparently because they’re in it. But don’t let that fool you. I’m in it, too, and it is a fabulous motion picture! The story is about this Muppet fan named Walter, who along with his friends Gary and Mary (played by Jason Segel and Amy Adams), comes to Hollywood to meet the Muppets. But then, they have to bring us together…and that means bringing Kermie and moi back together! It’s funny, uplifting, rollicking and, dare I say, the best thing I’ve ever done—with the possible exception of snagging the frog. Who are your favorite designers? Well, I wear Zac Posen and Christian Louboutin, and of course, I’ve worn everyone from Marc
Jacobs, Jason Wu and Brian Atwood to Suno, Philip Crangi and Prabal Gurung. If I’ve forgotten anyone, forgive moi. I promise you’ll be on the next list, once I’ve picked up the freebies. How do you feel about your pal Marc Jacobs replacing Galliano at Dior? Très bien! Marc is a kindred spirit and a brilliant designer, and I’m sure he will produce absolutémenté wondrous creations for House of Dior. However, if he should need inspiration, I am available as a creative muse. Marc, just call my agent, Bernie, and tell him I sent vous! The Parisians have been known to be real pigs to Americans... Oh, I see what you did—“real pigs!” Don’t go there, okay sweetie? Now, ignoring your insensitive and species-ist remark, let me say that the Parisians embraced me with open arms! In fact, some of them hugged me all through lunch, which made eating quite difficult. But I adore the French, and naturally they adore moi. Let’s talk Kate Moss wedding. I am sworn to secrecy. Oh, what the heck, here goes: It was absolutely everything you can imagine, filled with beautiful people posing beautifully and pretending to recognize each other. I must have air-kissed everyone in the room twice! And best of all, with all those models around, nobody went near the dessert cart! Needless to say, I made the most of the opportunity. After all, style and beauty come in all sizes; the bigger you are, the more you got! In any case, I wish Kate and her betrothed, Jamie, eternal happiness…and big anniversary parties that moi will be happy to attend. Do you have any anxiety about turning 40? Not at all. It’s soooo very, very many years away, why worry about it? What’s your life philosophy? Believe in yourself. If that doesn’t work, believe in moi.
Miss Piggy: John E. Barrett; © Disney (3) fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
Macy’s celebrates
Please join us on Sept 8, 2011 as we celebrate Fashion’s Night Out, a one-of-a kind global shopping event, taking place in NYC, Chicago, San Francisco, Miami, LA and select cities across the country*. Full of fun festivities, from fashion shows, celebrity & designer appearances, to special shopping incentives, FNO 2011 promises to be bigger and more fashionable than ever at Macy’s. While shopping the night away, check out the limited edition FNO merchandise. 40% of all proceeds will go to benefit the New York City AIDS Fund. * For a list of participating locations, and more information on FNO events & merchandise, visit www.Macys.com/fno.
we focus on fashion
focus on pictures... firstview.com
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D E T S BU
e h t t a Wh
! K C HA y n o h p y l s u o i c i l De m o r f s t c artifa s of The The New … e v i h c r Daily’s a
aNSCRIPt: R t Bernard Arnault's Voicemail [OFFICE]:
August 3, 4:15 a.m.: “Bon-joo, Bear-nar! It's Sue Chong from L.A. Is it early or late there? I never remember. Look, I hear you're looking for someone at Dior, and as everyone at Macy's can attest, I sell the hell out of evening. Luxury is dead, remember? Just give it a think.”
EVErETT COllECTION; shuTTErsTOCk
D E T S BU
tRaNSCRIPt:
Voicemail Account 917-242-XXXX Account Registered To: “Lazaro Hernandez” 7/11, 7:42 a.m.: “Laz, it’s me. Andrew. Left a message for Jack McCollough, too. I really need to know if you guys are in. The Daily’s calling me left and right. Are you in? Tell me you’re in.” 7/11, 7:43 a.m.: “Okay. Four weeks’ vacation!” 7/11, 11:33 p.m.: “Darling, it’s Valentino. [in the background] ‘And Giancarlo!’ And Giancarlo. [in the background] ‘And Natalia!’ And Natalia. I’ve been talking to those Permira consigliere and I hear Andrew wants a piece of you. Do not do anything before talking to me. Baci. The pups send their love.” 7/12, 8:06 a.m.: “How about a car and driver. Any car you want! Call me…” 7/13, 3:25 a.m.: “I will tell you one more [indistinguishable]: quit talking to the [indistinguishable]. This is not normal! Don’t call anyone unless it’s me or [indistinguishable] Pizza Hut.”
: t P I R C S N a R t FROM: M T.cO T cOM T.c OsT. ypOs nyp d]@n ed]@ [RedAcTe TO: cOle.AllAn@nypOsT.cOM
ts Room Requiremen g in ss re d s a’ n on Mad esentation] ourdes’ fashion pr [for l
3 iPhone chargers 1 wet nurse ctor (MB preferred) 1 private SoulCycle instru ks soc c leti 12 pairs of black ath ice of A bathtub full set and The Prince Two turntables + basic DJ rkweek, The 4-Hour Body, Wo our 4-H e Th of ns tio edi First DJ Samantha Ronson A NordicTrack 3 gallons of homebrew fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
Cole – tell me if you get this! I don’t know why my emails never go thru to u! Regarding the type-oh in my column – it was JUST ONE TIME. I am really sorrie but you know what it is like to deal with deadlines, bad editors, people with foreignsounding names. I know it is especially embarrassing that I screwed up our boss but Murdock has so many different spellings, who can keep them straight? Also: heard a big rumor that Condé, Hearst, and Meredith are ALL MURGING.
tRaNSCRIP tRaNSCRIPt:
From: 212.286.2860 To: 800-SOS-TWIT (Twitter helpline) Caller: Hi. I started this feed that documents all the funny stuff said in the elevator of my building.
Date: mid-August 2011 Location: An executive floor of the Hearst Tower British doyenne: Let’s get this started. As you know, this September marks my centennial anniversary at the magazine, and the festivities must be properly celebratory. High-pitched twentysomething: It’s actually not a cen— Doyenne: It’s impossible for me to talk to you about this unless I know my budget. Baritone: Minimal. Doyenne: At least as much as we spend on a Goude shoot, yes? Baritone: Think more along the lines of lowbrow bat mitzvah. Twentysomething: I can get us a great rate at the new Gansevoort Park. Doyenne: I’m afraid that won’t do. Has anyone done anything significant at John DeLucie’s new place on the Upper East Side? Twentysomething: Anna had a little something post-Met. Doyenne: Next! Baritone: I’d suggest looking into a sponsor. Pierre said... Doyenne: Impossible. If Pierre Cardin’s name is on the invite, no other designer will come and all designers must come. Twentysomething: Budweiser has been hounding us to do an event...they’ve offered to take care of everything, including a special guest performance by Estelle. Doyenne: That will be all.
Twitter helpdesk: Are you having connectivity issues? That happens.
Caller: The problem is that the elevator I'm talking about is the one at my office, and it's become kind of a thing. Helpdesk: So you are experiencing problems Tweeting in an elevator? Caller: You heard about that in Cupertino? Nice! Look, this has gotta stay strictly between us, but is there any way you can wipe it from existence? Like, entirely? Helpdesk: We are taking your request very seriously. Caller: Dude, you gotta help me here. I only make 28 grand a year and they expect me to wear Simon Spurr jeans and date world-famous DJs. If I get canned I'm gonna have to find some way to pay my $6K AmEx bill, and it's not gonna be legal, if you get me. How about I get you a date with Madeline Weeks? Helpdesk: We are glad your problem is resolved. This call was recorded for quality assurance and identity verification purposes.
[REDACTED] CONTENTS OF DUMPSTER er 2, 2011 Date: Septemb ston Street Location: Hou e townhouse and 6th Avenu
e of AARP The 1 September issu Magazine 1 copy InTouch 1 copy Star Enquirer 1 copy National 3 peach pits ps (grande) 18 Starbucks cu Miss Lily’s om 1 matchbook fr thazar T-bone al B n 1 Half-eate steak se report torn to 1 official expen teeny, tiny pieces ain de Soleil B 1 empty bottle of SPF 90 Acuvue contact 1 empty box of lenses Château 1 empty bottle of hild 1982 Mouton Rothsc e al Light Lemonad 14 empty Cryst sachets f canvas with an 1 broken-in-hal cape of Mastic attempted lands Bay
G E T T y; s h u T T E r sTO C k
inside scoop
YOU: Collected &discussed!
Think you’ve seen and heard it all? Think again! Since March, your FashionWeekDaily.com has ushered you behind closed doors and into the offices of fashion’s most seasoned execs and aspirant assistants. We culled our archives for the most delicious dish you may have missed.
“Last summer, we were fortunate enough to be asked by Esquire to be a part of ‘The Big Black Book.’ The theme was the outdoors—with a hunting spin. There’s not much in-season summer hunting here, and it gets pretty hot in the South, but we decided to go on a hog hunt in Mississippi. While Billy is an avid hunter, it was my first time hunting hog, and I had certainly never done it with several layers of wool clothing in 110-degree heat. But the images turned out great—even if we didn’t come back with a hog!” —KP McNeill, CEO of Billy Reid
“I really have to take the credit for discovering Carolyn [Bessette Kennedy]. Paul Wilmot loves to take the credit, because he was head of our PR at the time, but seriously, I found her.” —Susan Sokol, president and COO of J.Mendel
“I’d be at a CFDA board meeting with Ralph Lauren, Carolina Herrera, Oscar de la Renta, Donna Karan, Calvin Klein and Kenneth Cole—the queens and the kings of their worlds. There was a lot of, ‘I think we should do this,’ while someone else would say ‘I think we should do that.’ I’ve likened it to being in the UN.” —Peter Arnold, president of Cynthia Rowley and former CFDA exec, on his greatest achievement at the CFDA
“Rebecca didn’t always know she wanted to be a fashion designer. She used to work at a pharmacy and at a hotel.” —Beth Bugdaycay, co-founder and CEO of Rebecca Taylor
“There we were in our twenties, selling ties in a middle school gym on a Saturday morning, having guys who work on Wall Street saying, ‘Look at the idiot Murray brothers.’” —Shep and Ian Murray, co-founders and co-CEOs of Vineyard Vines
“If Bono calls, you take it. I went to his apartment to hear what they had to say. I remember thinking, ‘He’s a rock star, but when it comes to apparel, I’ve forgotten more than he’ll ever know.’” —Mark Weber, president of LVMH Inc. U.S. and CEO of Donna Karan International
The Executives spill: “I call her Carolina between the two of us, and Mrs. Herrera at the right moments.” —Caroline Brown, president of Carolina Herrera
“When I met Donna Karan, she screened me with a handwriting test. I don’t think she hired me only based on my handwriting, but this was the late ‘80s!” —Tommy Fazio, president of Simon Spurr
“I begged my sister (a former retail director of Luca Luca) not to yell at me in front of others. I told her that I have a certain position, and I have to maintain my image. It took a year for us to learn to communicate at the office—a year of Luca Orlandi getting in the middle.” —Yildiz Blackstone, president of Luca Luca
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
GIORGIO NIRO (14); ALEXANDRA LLYASHOV (2)
YASHOV (2)
“A triple venti is major. When I order it, the baristas just give me this look, like, ‘Who is this going to?’” —Lisa Goldstein, assistant to Teen Vogue’s Sabine Feldmann
“She never goes to Michael’s. I think that whole editorial crowd is a bit much for her.” —Seth Plattner, assistant to Elle’s Robbie Myers
“Zang comes up with ‘fashion names’ to make it easier for him to remember our names. Zang’s office manager, Joanna Lee is JoJo; Randy Singh, JoJo’s assistant, is DyDy, pronounced ‘dee dee’; our interns: Shuh Jiuan is YiiYii, and Ariana Moumunas is MouMou; and Patrick Michael, Zang’s good friend, is PP.” —Nita “NaNa” Loyelty, assistant to Zang Toi
“Well, first of all, ‘quiet’ and ‘reserved’ are the very last words I’d use to describe Shaun. After three office Christmas parties and his 40th birthday… I still think he’s a genius, but the honeymoon is over.” —Stephanie Rickards, assistant to Shaun Leane, jewelry designer
“Simon puts on this diva act, but it’s so not who he is. I’ll be touching base with him between his many meetings to catch him up on the rest of his day, for example, and he’ll cut me off with a hand gesture and say, ‘And we’re walking!’” —Jennifer Brierley Maiorana, assistant to Banana Republic’s Simon Kneen
“I can eat Reese’s for breakfast and no one cares. except for ‘The Body,’ my arch nemesis. That’s Tyler Graham, the editor of that section. Though I don’t think I’ve ever called him Tyler, just ‘The Body.’ I will sometimes walk on the other side of the building because I don’t want Tyler to see my fro-yo, since it’s covered in that Oreo cookie crunch, whipped cream and raspberry swirl sauce. He’s very judgmental about food, but I think it might be all image.” —Tiffany Rose Clary, assistant to Details’ Dan Peres
“When we’re not in the office, I just want to hang out with Deborah and her family. Creepy, right? I lounge on the floor and curl up on the couch at her apartment while she’s reading pages at her desk. I eat breakfast with her in her kitchen when I’m there in the morning…she makes me toast!” —Alainna Lexie Beddie, assistant to WSJ’s Deborah Needleman
The Assistants Whisper:
“His pet peeve is definitely being addressed in emails as, ‘Ms. Ariel Foxman.’ It happens all the time.” —Lauren Tumas, assistant to InStyle’s Ariel Foxman
“I’d like to sleep in Linda’s closet.” —Jennifer Csengody, assistant to Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo
“Lucy actually jets around the city in her vespa because she feels like she can get to meetings faster when she doesn’t have to sit in traffic.” —Sarah Schmidt, assistant to Self’s Lucy Danziger
“While I’m here, I change at least 50 times a day. Around the office, they call me Mowgli, like the character in The Jungle Book, because I run around in my underwear between fittings. I don’t even care—I’m like the least modest person in the world.” —Stephanie Wagenman, former assistant, promoted to design associate to Betsey Johnson
“Steven’s fourth grade teacher told him his handwriting looked like smashed ants on the page. It’s almost unreadable.” —Sophie Marx, assistant to the CFDA’s Steven Kolb
D a i l y f r o n t r o w. c o m • t h e D a i l y f r o n t r o w
With Claude Morais (l) and Brian Wolk Demsey at Le Caprice
Notice the resemblance between this dapper young gent and powerhouse John Demsey? This portrait by Yousuf Karsh sparked a lifelong interest in photography for the group president of Estée Lauder. He gave the scoop on his storied archives to his friends— and Ruffian designers— Brian Wolk and Claude Morais over lunch at Le Caprice.
WHO'S THAT MAN?
BW: How did you start collecting? Photography was great to collect, because you didn’t need a lot of money to acquire amazing images. When I was 18 years old, my father had me photographed by Yousuf Karsh, one of the most famous photographers of the time. I spent the following summer in Paris, where I found a black and white headshot of Brigitte Bardot as a 17-year-old brunette with a ponytail at Les Puces. Those two photographs marked the beginnings of my collection. After I graduated from Stanford and moved to New York, I started picking up images here and there, and 150 photographs later, it’s an insatiable desire. CM: Are your parents artistic? My mother is a painter who used to be an artist in residence at Bergdorf Goodman. She designed the shopping bags and catalogue covers. BW: You're one of the most elegant entertainers we know. What is your recipe for a great party? Mixed nuts! It’s always best to make worlds collide. Some people from Avenue A, others Demsey's New York townhouse from Park Avenue. CM: Do you think the spirit of Montgomery Clift, the former resident of your townhouse, influences your parties? Yes! And the spirit of Prince Serge Obolensky, a Russian aristocrat in the ‘50s, who worked at Condé Nast. The house also once belonged to Teddy Roosevelt. I hope to have a happier ending than Montgomery Clift did! My neighborhood [the east FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Sixties] is called the Treadwell Farm Historic District. It was the West Village of its day, where all the movie people lived. CM: When you left Ohio to attend Stanford, did you know you wanted to work in the beauty industry? I had a cousin who was in the fragrance business—he created Jovan Musk, which was huge during the ‘70s. I knew the Lauders through my parents’ friends in New York. I knew I didn’t want to go back to Cleveland, and I wanted to do something that was creative and visual. At the time, I was more interested in entertainment, but the beauty business found me. I studied in Paris, and I got to see all the great designers running around town. The mid-to-late ‘70s were a fascinating time for the fashion and cosmetics industries. I graduated from NYU business school, and much like now, there were no jobs to be had. My friend set up a meeting for me with Rose Marie Bravo at Macy’s, and I started the executive training program, specializing in fragrance. I worked at Macy’s, Bloomingdale's, Saks, Benetton, and then Revlon, where I worked on Borghese. I came to Estée Lauder over 20 years ago. BW: What inspires you? Does nostalgia play a part? Always. We're just coming out of a more-is-more period. Now, we are dealing with the flawless face, but there are also countertrends of goth and maximalism. CM: Lady Gaga? Yes. She is the living embodiment of more is more. BW: Lady Gaga actually accesses a lot of visual semiology from many past pop stars… A lot of people my age view her as retro or nostalgic, but my niece, who is 19, has no idea who the references are. For her, Madonna is a mature performer. Lady Gaga turns her on; she’s new. CM: What’s your grooming regime? Crème de la Mer, Tom Ford Neroli Portofino, and Aida Bicaj for facials. BW: Favorite spa? Two Bunch Palms, which was Al Capone’s retreat in Palm Springs. CM: Favorite restaurants? Demsey's In New York, Le Caprice, Brigitte Bardot Indochine, Da Silvano, photograph Bar Pitti, MR CHOW, La Grenouille, 21 Club, Milos (for Greek), E.A.T. for coffee and bread, Benoit and Shun Lee Palace. BW: Where do you shop? My suits are made by Stuart Lamprell, Timothy Everest and Joe Morgan, all associated with Tommy Nutter in the ‘70s. In New York, it’s Kirk Miller. I buy a lot of Tom Ford, and my go-to places for sportswear are James Perse and Hermès, which is probably my favorite store in the world. For shoes, I love John Lobb, Berluti and Weston. BW: Last question. Linen or cotton sheets? I like linen in a hot resort, but I am in love with Pratesi white cotton. C O U R T E S Y J O H N D E M S E Y ( 4 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N . C O M
S:10.25”
R A M PA G E
© 2011 Rampage
R A M PA G E S T Y L E
S:13”
I R I N A S H AY K
A P PA R E L , F O O T W E A R , I N T I M AT E S & A C C E S S O R I E S
FOR
The NEXT
! n o i t a r e Gen Supima Design Competition Returns
T
oday Supima’s Fourth Annual Design Competition storms Lincoln Center for the very first time. Eight designers from the nation’s top schools will present capsule collections in The Studio for New York’s discerning front row—think elite retailers, editors and true fash-insiders. The goal? Showcasing women’s eveningwear featuring the luxe look of Supima cotton. The prize? $10,000 to help kickstart a fashion career (not to mention bragging rights)! Inspired by the legendary 1954 Wool Secretariat competition that helped launch the careers of both Yves St. Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld, this competition has continued a tradition of success boasting winners who have gone onto start their own labels, show at New York’s Fashion Week and land jobs with some of the biggest international labels. This round of finalists, battling it out to join those winning alumni, will be judged on the originality and execution of five categories of fabric that are Supima signatures; fine shirting, soft jersey, premium denim, luxuriant corduroy and supple twill. And they’ll be going up against a panel of industry pros, including everyone from fellow designers Nicole Miller and Charlotte Ronson to supermodel Coco Rocha and mega retailers Alexandra Wilkis Wilson and Kevin Harter. Whose designs will reign supreme for Supima?
Jusil Carroll Busan, South Korea native Jusil Carroll, 34, graduated from FIT (“one of very few schools to offer a focus on knitwear”) with a BFA in Fashion Design this year. Her competition collection was inspired by The Blair Witch Project. “I love the idea that each person interprets the witch differently and all they are left with is a sense of mystery and thrill.”
lo or re en na a Cuevas restrepo A native of Bogota, Colombia, 23-year-old Lorena Cuevas Restrepo received her first formal training in fashion design when she attended Central St. Martin’s as a teenager. Since then, she has won a mentorship from designer Rachel Roy, showcased her work at Saks Fifth Avenue in Atlanta, and been featured in a photo shoot for Jezebel magazine. The 2011 BFA graduate of SCAD describes her aesthetic as “minimalist with organic, feminine shapes,” and says that, in her competition collection, “gentle hues of blush and gray with incursions of acid green and red intimate the idea of speed as fashion’s future races toward reduction.”
Connie Weng A native of Berkeley Heights, New Jersey, 22-year-old Connie Weng graduated from RISD earlier this year with a BFA in Apparel Design and aspirations to launch a career in sportswear. Her honors have included being named last year’s YMA Fashion Fund Scholar and four years as recipient of the SanofiAventis Scholarship. Describing her aesthetic, she says, “My work is not about fashion as much as it is about lifestyle.” For her competition collection, she’s “been working with digital prints, using a riot of colors that I probably would have been hesitant to use in my sportswear. It’s pushing me out of my comfort zone.”
amy lynn Bittner Evansville, Indiana native Amy Lynn Bittner started sewing at age 10 and graduated from FIT this year with a BFA in Fashion Design. The 23-year-old studied corsetry, haute couture sewing techniques and embellishments. Her designs exhibit “my love of hand embellishments and attention to detail. These techniques have become a statement in my work.”
!
marloW larson
raChel pullman
Gainesville, Georgia native Marlow Larson, 22, has been “drawing women ever since I could hold a pencil,” and had decided on a design career by the third grade. He graduated earlier this year from SCAD with a BFA in Fashion Design. He won a YMA Scholarship and was a finalist in competitions including Elle Magazine’s Fashion/Next, the Cotton Inc. Scholarship, and the YMA Geoffrey Beene Scholarship. He calls his competition collection “a cohesive evening wardrobe: one that could be mixed and matched and restyled. I was initially inspired by all things Art Deco.”
Born in Canberra, 23-year-old Rachel Pullman moved to England and back to Australia before settling in the U.S. At age 12, she enrolled in sewing classes, embarking on a career that led her to RISD, where she graduated with a BFA this year. For her competition collection she says, “I want to play upon the strength of Supima Cotton while adding textures to the already soft, luxurious hand. The pieces in this collection are about drape and form.”
maru Jung A native of Seoul, South Korea, 23-year-old MaRu Jung graduated from Pratt this year with a BFA in Fashion Design and the goal of landing a job as an assistant designer of women’s sportswear— and eventually launching her own label. She describes her competition collection as “too beautiful to stay in two dimensions, so I wanted to reveal them in a three-dimensional way, interrupting their organized layout with unexpected parts.”
Dara rosen A native of Long Valley, New Jersey, 23-year-old Dara Rosen currently aims for a career in eveningwear and, in particular, the bridal market. Earlier this year, Rosen graduated from Pratt, with a BFA in Fashion Design. “I merge classic elements with unconventional inspirations and innovative detailing,” says Rosen. For her Supima competition collection she’s “very much enjoying the process of exploring the fabrics’ varying properties.”
the JuDges charlotte roNsoN Designer
CoCo RoCha Supermodel
Nicole Miller Designer ROCHA/MILLER: GIORGIO NIRO
BuxtoN Midyette VP of Marketing, Supima
keviN harter Vice President, Bloomingdale’s
alexaNdra Wilkis WilsoN Founder, Gilt Groupe
rs’ alma maters about the Designe
Rhode Island School of Design: RISD has earned an international reputation as one of the leading colleges of art and design in the United States. RISD is known for its phenomenal faculty of artists and designers, the breadth of its specialized facilities and its hands-on, studio-based approach to learning—one in which critical thinking informs making works by hand. Pratt Institute: Globally recognized for its distinguished academic reputation, Pratt Institute is one of the most prestigious independent specialized colleges in the U.S. Pratt’s programs are consistently ranked among the best in the country, and its faculty and alumni include the most renowned artists, designers, and scholars in their fields. Savannah College of Art & Design: One of the newest design schools, SCAD is a private, nonprofit, accredited institution that has been quick to gain recognition and support from the fashion industry. SCAD offers degrees in more than 40 majors. Fashion Institute of Technology: Alma mater to many of fashion’s leading designers, FIT’s Fashion Design program was established in 1944. The associate degree program gives students an essential foundation for creating apparel from sketch to finished garment. FIT fashion design alumni include Calvin Klein, Francisco Costa, and Ralph Rucci. d a i l y f r o n t r o w. c o m • t h e d a i l y f r o n t r o w
A SPeCIAL THANKS TO O u R FA B R I C S u P P L I e R S : W W W. A L B I N I g R O u P. C O M
W W W. C O T O N I F I C I O B O N O M I . C O M
W W W. F e S S L e R u S A . C O M
W W W. K u R A B O . C O . J P
Just Because
RichaRd
to the Rescue!
hi richard! Hi there! [Bursting into song] Do wah do wah. Poop poop diddy. Talk about the guy from New York City. you’re always making people laugh! Being silly is a wonderful thing to do if it works for you. God knows it’s worked for me for all these years! We understand that you went to fashion school? I’m an illustrator. I’ve been drawing since I was a kid in New Orleans. I started hanging around Jackson Square and learning different techniques. When I went to college in Florence, Italy and spent a little time in Palermo, Sicily, I took up fashion illustration, graphic design and I worked on a couple of children’s books. Then I got jobs doing fashion illustrations, but there was something missing. I was alone in the room with a dress, and it wasn’t for me—I needed to be around people! how did richard Simmons become richard Simmons? In New Orleans, we work out by putting things in deep fryers. If I saw someone running in the streets, I called the cops, because I thought they were stealing! When I moved to L.A., I was a waiter at night, and I went to all the exercise studios during the day. I saved my tip money and 38 years ago, I opened up Slimmons, my studio in Beverly Hills. I’m still teaching there! I dress up in class—I’ll do anything for people to not take exercise so seriously. Last week, I wore a wedding dress as a tribute to Kim Kardashian. I work with Leslie Wilshire, who has designed my tank tops for 61 DVDs. My entire outfit for tonight’s class is made of plastic forks. Do you ever get cold? I really don’t. Being ashamed of what you look like and covering up your body isn’t a good message. I hop around in the snow in tank tops and shorts, because if I can’t be cute and sparkle, I won’t leave my home.
Is the chic grind getting you down already? Help is here! Learn a lesson or three from Richard Simmons, the wellness guru who's been transforming people's lives for the last 40 years or so. You need him now more than ever! BY EDDIE ROCHE P h oto g r a P h b y M i c h e l e M at z
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Just Because
"You fashion experts
Describe your personal style. party hard. You gotta I buy them things that make them feel good. In my last life, I was a It’s built around my insecurities. I’m watch that drinking 6’3" model for Abercrombie & Fitch with washboard abs. You should 133 pounds. I wear lots of tank tops have seen it! The photo shoot we did in the little canoe boats with and those hors and Dolfin shorts, as you know. I’m the only person other than the the paddles? I’m telling you, I’ll never forget it. d’oeuvres—five hors Harlem Globetrotters who wears that outfit. I put sparkles on it to Which designers do you adore? make people smile and laugh. I live a pretty reclusive life and travel d’oeuvres is a meal! I’ve always loved DVF. I’m glad she’s back in a big way. Versace, a whole lot. When I take my housekeeper out for dinner, I wear Bijan In fashion you want too. I think Ralph Lauren is a master of what he does. I love Marc and Ralph Lauren, but no one recognizes me in a sport coat and tie. to look your best, and Jacobs. I think he’s pretty fabulous. I don’t know. Elie Saab? That’s I’ve never really felt comfortable in those clothes. At the house, I just unbelievable! you can’t do that on only wear white. how can we be more cheery during fashion Week? four hours of sleep. Why? I look at every day as a blessing. The fashion community is very Can you?" Because of the energy it gives me. I’ve been wearing white for tight-knit. There’s a great deal of love and respect there, but there’s 28 years. I get up at 4 a.m. and go all day long calling, e-mailing, also stress. When you stress out, it affects everybody. My parents teaching class…I need the energy. were kind of poor in New Orleans, and to make extra money, I sold What time do you go to bed? pralines. My father said, 'No strangers. Everybody you meet is a part of your Sometimes 9:30 or 10 p.m. Sleep is not really important to me. family.' The great part about everyone who comes to Fashion Week is they’re What do you think of the fashion industry and our weight issues? alive! They didn’t die! I love fashion! When somebody at my studio loses weight, I take them to Neiman’s What trends are you expecting for Spring 2012? or Saks and have their makeup and hair done. Then I buy them an outfit—things Color. I’d like to see more feminine clothes. If I were a designer, I’d be showing that are not black, that have color and pizzaz and necklines! more neck, chest, shoulders, and back. I love pastels, too. I live in one of the have you ever been to new york's fashion Week? houses that was used in Gone with the Wind, and it took me seven years to re-do Never! My assistant has, and absolutely loves, loves it! It’s one thing when I’m it. I’ve been here 32 years now, but I have 23 pastel colors in the house. I also teaching, but the social thing makes me very nervous. If I had to teach a class for have one of the largest collections of fashion dolls in the country. I have probably Fashion Week to models and designers and get them moving, I would do that. But 11,000! Some of these fashion dolls take six months to a year to sculpt, because actually going to a show? I probably would panic. they do the hair, the makeup, the clothing…these doll artists are just amazing. What are your favorite magazines? richard, it's been a pleasure. I like WWD, Vogue, Harper’s. I also get the international issues of Vogue. When Thank you for doing this interview! I know I really don’t have anything to do with the Neiman Marcus catalogue comes, my two housekeepers and I sit around my fashion, but I appreciate it! You are invited to my classes in L.A. anytime. Just dining room going, 'Ohhh! What about this dress?' We go through all of them and email me. You'll like my costumes, I promise.
your MoSt PreSSing hey richard! i only do two cartwheels a year at my shows, can you tell grandma betsey what’s the best stretch to do before so i don’t feel trashed after? —betsey Johnson Well, Betsey, before you start any of this, if you’re nervous you have to stretch your body. It relieves stress and it makes you taller! Move your neck side to side, stretch your shoulders, and all of a sudden, the circulation is happening! Your brain feels happier because of all the new oxygen! Then put on some music and dance around a bit. Who inspired who: Xanadu or you? —ken Downing I wore a black leotard and tights for years until I got my Sweatin' to the Oldies outfit together! I was never influenced by headbands, wristbands, the tall leggings and the “Let’s Get Physical” waistlines. By the way, when I was a kid, I used to crawl into department store windows and FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Chicsters want my advice? I’m very nervous!
hang out with the mannequins. Who knows? I may do that for Christmas. What exercise can a big-bottom boy do to pull off a pair of high-cut '80s shorts? —ivan bart, iMg Models This is a very difficult area to shrink. A lot of people still wrap their buns in Saran Wrap and sweat all night. In my class, we do 600 leg lifts because it’s taking the biggest part of you that weighs the most and lifting it up and down. That helps a lot; cycling helps, too. But watch your fat intake! Where do you find your short shorts? —charlotte ronson They’re all vintage Dolfin shorts from the '70s and '80s. I have over 100 pairs.
QuerieS, anSWereD! i know i have amazing legs but i just don’t have the guts to wear short-shorts. What should i do? —Sergio kletnoy, assistant to Marie Claire editrix Joanna coles It doesn’t take guts. You shouldn’t even think about it. If you have nice looking legs, show them. My mother was a Follies girl, she had gorgeous legs until her 86th birthday. Do you ever wear long sleeve shirts when you work out? —alan cumming Oh, no! You want to see your body move and if you have too much on top, you sweat. Alan, you keep your body looking so great!
You always work out, don’t you? What’s the best thing to eat when i wake up? i never feel hungry, but i know i should eat something. i don’t cook and would be happy to make the same thing everyday. —Patrick McMullan If you eat the same thing everyday you’ll end up like the girls in Valley of the Dolls. A body needs fruit in the morning. It also needs a starch, but an intelligent one, like half of a whole wheat bagel or a cereal that isn't full of sugar. In the morning I have half a bagel, fresh fruit, yogurt and tea. The most important thing in the morning is to stay away from grease because it clogs you and you don’t get energy. how do you feel about working out in heels? —lela rose Very dangerous. You only get two feet and you don’t want to mess them up. You can’t buy a second pair! M i c h e l e M at z / c o u r t e S y o f r i c h a r D S i M M o n S ; g e t t y ( 3 ) ; Pat r i c k M c M u l l a n . c o M ( 3 )
© Danskin 2011
S:10.25”
MOVE FOR CHANGE
Hiking is a great way to keep challenging myself and clear my mind. You walk, run, climb through natural beauty - it makes you feel at peace. - Hilary Duff
S:13”
facebook.com/danskin twitter.com/danskin
danskin.com
Danskin’s Move for Change initiative proudly supports Hilary Duff and Blessings in a Backpack, a non-profit organization that feeds poverty-stricken elementary school children. Get inspired and join the Danskin journey at www.danskinmove.com
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Natalia Vodianova in Valentino’s custom gown for her Love Ball
The Visit
Lady Gaga in custom Valentino by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli At the 2008 Venice premiere of Valentino: The Last Emperor with Eva Herzigova
CATCHING UP
At the Casina Valadier, 2009
WITH….
Valentino garavani His house? Restored to glory. His legacy? Strong as ever. Luckily for us, the one and only Valentino is gracing New York this week to receive the FIT Couture Council’s Artistry of Fashion Award. Ring, ring! BY ASHLEY BAKER How did you spend your summer, carissimo? There was a lot of relaxing on my boat in Croatia. I also enjoyed a few days of excitement in Venice for the Film Festival. Madonna’s movie was superb! How much time are you spending in New York? This time, I’m only here for a couple of weeks. I like to come often for short periods. What was your reaction to learning about the award? It’s a great honor. To be called an artist is really cool. Do you consider yourself retired? No, I am always doing something. But I like the freedom to choose At his farewell my timing instead of show in 2007 following the same calendars year after year. Do you ever get that old urge to design a new collection? No, but I like to design a single dress from time to time. I did one recently for a friend’s wedding. I also made the red gown Natalia [Vodianova] wore for her Love Ball, which was held at the Château de Wideville [Valentino’s home] outside of Paris this July. FASHIONWEEKDAILY.COM
Who are the great designers of Valentino Garavani’s caliber working today? There are great designers all the time...every one is unique. A great designer is all about personal style! Fair enough. Which designers of the next generation are poised for greatness? The ones who will be able to maintain their own vision for a long time. Speaking of vision: thoughts on Lady Gaga? She has constantly been wearing Valentino by Chiuri... What should the fashion industry be doing differently? Fewer fashion shows! What are you really excited about right now? The Valentino Garavani Virtual Museum. It’s an amazing project that will be launched this coming winter. It’s a vast computer-generated series of modern galleries that have been created to allow everyone with a computer to wander through the history of my work. How is Natalia? Natalia…a marvelous strong rock!
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Norman Ambrose
Rising Stars
Who's
shoWing A new fashion flock has descended, and the competition is stiff! Let’s review, shall we? Katie Ermilio Impressive lineage: Granddaughter of Grace Kelly’s personal clothier Targeted customer: Upper-crust twentysomethings residing above 59th Street Fantasy front row-goer: Diane von Furstenberg Hungry for: Chocolate soufflé Brick-and-mortar dreamin’: “If we’re opening a retail location, I’ll want to be within walking distance of Cooper-Hewitt.”
Norman Ambrose Divine inspirations: Cristobal Balenciaga and Norman Norell Weakness: “Anything with black truffles.” Favorite color: “Today? Gainsboro blue.” Price factor: “I’m worth every penny.” Known for: Embroideries Craziest fashion moment: “I don’t do crazy.” Fantasy front row-goer: The late socialite, Mona von Bismarck
Giovanna Randall, Honor
Joy Cioci
Pre-fashion identity: Was once a pre-med student and opera singer Targeted customer: “She’s one part Grace Kelly and one part a modern woman, like a Karen O from the Yeah Yeah Yeahs.” Defining characteristic: “I can do crazy things with my feet.” Current state of mind: “La la la la la la doo doo doo chicky chicky boom chick. (repeat...)” Splurges: Vintage inspiration pieces, NARS products, surfing trips, cake Fantasy front row-goer: Grace Coddington
Industry cred: Interned for Tom Ford at Gucci and Olivier Theyskens at Nina Ricci Starry fan: Brooklyn Decker Ecscape plan: “On a yacht, either in the Mediterranean or the Caribbean.” Strangest Paris moment: “My business partner, Lisa Krowne, and I saw Karen Elson and Florence Welch in the bathroom at the bar at the Ritz. They were dancing in the bathroom, so we just joined in!” Fantasy front rowgoer: “The one with the chicest bob and sunglasses out there.” Brick-and-mortar dreamin’: “A store on Rodeo Drive, baby!”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
TO p p H OTO A N D N O R M A N A M B R O S E : K E V I N TA C H M A N
Rising Stars
Nary Manivong, Nahm Not-so-secret passion: The Ohio State Buckeyes! Currently craving: Fried chicken Spends wildly on: Fried chicken Admires: Geoffrey Beene Fantasy front row-goers: Lil' Wayne, Jay Z, Grandma and Grandpa
Alexandria Hilfiger, Nahm
Sally LaPointe Early adopter: Lady Gaga Frequently compared with: Gareth pugh and Alexander McQueen Already on-rack at: Oak NYC and Church in Los Angeles Spends money on: “What money?” Crazy about: Rodarte Favorite supe-in-training: Lyoka Tyagnereva. “Last season during a fitting we talked about how my prints reminded her of the artist H.R. Giger. After the show, she handed me one of his books as a gift.”
Jeremy Laing Trademark: Curly coif and black-rimmed glasses High-profile apprenticeship: Alexander McQueen Hooked on: “Green juice, vitamins, crabmeat and sunshine.” Already on-rack at: Maryam Nassir Zadeh, pas De Deux, La Garçonne and VOD Boutique Sexiest photoshoot: Being shot by Bruce Weber while sitting on the shoulders of a hunk in a Speedo. Fantasy front row-goer: “I like it when my parents can make it to a show.” All-time bestie: “He's more than just that and he knows who he is.”
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Heir apparent of: Tommy, obvi Been there, done that quotient: Appeared on MTV’s “Rich Girls” in 2003 Following in the footsteps of: “DvF, by creating a line around a single concept—the classic shirtdress.” Current state of mind: “I’m hungry and sleepy and anxious to get my yummy and hot and gooey sandwich.” Uniform: Vintage lingerie and bathrobes Looks up to: “Everyone. I'm five feet tall.”
Falguni & Shane Peacock Home base: Mumbai Cult following: The pop princess crowd— Britney, Madonna, Fergie, Katy perry Retail range: “From $400 to...the sky's the limit.” Greatest expenditure: “Our daughter’s college fund.” Lusting after: Veggie burgers Wants to dress: Emma Stone Bestie: “Our daughter.” Favorite model: “Brianna Box. She's in L.A.”
Rafael Cennamo Hails from: Venezuela, home of Carolina Herrera and Angel Sanchez Starry fans: Beyonce, Taylor Swift, Jada pinkett Smith and Eva Longoria Will be on-rack at: Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue And internationally sold in...Dubai, Qatar, Russia, Brazil, Canada, U.K., Kuwait, and Singapore Brick and mortar dreams: “A boutique on Avenue Montaigne in paris, please.” Attention, CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund committee! One of his cocker spaniels is named “Swarovski.” Dream model: Magdalena Frackowiak
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Rising STARS
ARisE Magazine’s
Made in Africa Spring 2012 Designer Collective is showing on Thursday, September 15 at 5 p.m. at Lincoln Center.
Fati Asibelua, Asibelua Aspiration: “To put African fashion on the map by creating an international luxury label that has a distinctive African signature, while appealing to the broader market.” Catwalk calamity: “One season, the stage was still being built as the show was set to start.” Fantasy front row-goer: Daphne Guinness Brick-and-mortar dreamin': Mount Street in London. Fun fact: “My birth name, Awele, means good luck—and I come from a family of eight siblings!”
Lanre Da Silva Ajayi, LDA Trademark: Non-conformist designs inspired by the 1940s Favorite color (du moment): Burgundy Fantasy front row-goers: Michelle Obama, Oprah Winfrey and Anna Wintour Hooked on: Trips to the pyramids of Egypt Guilty purchase: pVC pants
Bunmi Olaye, Bunmi Koko Early adopter: “Former Spice Girl, Mel B, loved our signature wrap dress so much she bought one in every color.” Famous friends: HRH prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall, who personally invited Bunmi to attend an event at St. James's palace. High point: “After Bunmi Koko won Emerging International Designer at the African Fashion Awards 2010, I was personally invited to meet Nelson Mandela at his private home in Johannesburg.” Tantalizing tidbit: “I whistle when I snore.”
Lisa Folawiyo, Jewel by Lisa Defining characteristic: “My afro-modern custom prints and signature embellishments on the Ankara fabric.” Alma mater: The University of Nigeria, where she studied law What the goods cost: $100 to $1,200 Already on-rack at: New York’s A Turen Admires: Miuccia prada and Consuelo Castiglioni Model muse: Herieth paul
Malcolm Klûk and Christiaan Gabriel Du Toit, KLûK CGTD Favorite furry accessory: “Four matching black Scottish terriers. They work well with every outfit.” Most fun to go to: Ballooning over the Nile with friends Back-up plan: “Stuffing money in the mattress.” Driving force: “When a customer drove through our Cape Town boutique, destroying everything.”
Tsemaye Binitie High-profile gig: A design position chez Stella McCartney Hungry for: “World domination.” Weakness: Lanvin sneakers and skin care products Family fun: “I spent about a month hand sewing ostrich feathers onto a wedding dress. Even my father picked up a needle and thread to join in!” FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Pierre-Antoine Vettorello Craving: "A big fat American burger." Splurges: Shoes and art books Vacation haunt: Cap Ferrat, in the southwest of France. Where he shops: “The RA concept store in Antwerp, Belgium. If you like new designers they will take care of you.”
The New Guard
Who's
Covering So many media moves, our heads are spinning! So we assembled a Daily guide of who’s in, who’s out and, more importantly, who’s covering the front lines of Fash Week. Meet your new neighbors!
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
g
Chloe Malle
Ann Gerhart
Then: Freelance writer for the Times' Style section; also did time covering parties for the Observer Now: Anna’s social editor at Vogue Summer pastime: Sweating it out with mom Candice Bergen at SoulCycle East Hampton On her nightstand: Winnie the Pooh; Pride and Prejudice Next up? A masters in public health…some day! And we quote: “You can never have too many glue sticks and cheeseburgers.”
Leith Speer Barton Then: Executive assistant to Anna Wintour Now: Vogue's accessories editor What you want: Her backhand, perfected at the East River tennis courts What you don’t: Her former job What she drinks: Green juice with apple, lemon and ginger
Annebet Duvall Then: Stylist, associate fashion editor of Jane Now: Founder and designer of Doucette Duvall and senior fashion editor at Seventeen Hometown: Houston, Texas Vogue cred: Assisted Andre Leon Talley for nine months Industry bestie: Brad Goreski Alter ego: “DJ Duvall.” She recently graduated from Dubspot, a DJ school
Dawn Spinner Davis Then: Freelancer Now: Online beauty and fashion editor at Cosmopolitan Alma mater: Colby College, chosen for the local Shipyard Brewing Co.'s "Pumpkinhead" hops Soul mate: Private wealth manager, hubby Brandon Davis Magnum opus: Contributed to the New York Times series, “Dating a Banker Anonymous.” Registry 411: Amazon, Crate and Barrel and Bloomie's
Megan Gustashaw Then Women’s fashion editor at RalphLauren.com Then: Now: Online style editor at Glamour Has a wardrobe full of: Ralph's Pink Pony Where she’s lived: NYC, London, Massachusetts, Florida and Blacksburg, Virginia Number of Facebook friends: 522
Stephanie Trong Then: Deputy digital editor at Lucky Now: Fashion editorial director at NYmag.com Moment of fame: Had a cameo on SOAPnet’s 2007 series The Fashionista Diaries Has worked twice for: Brandon Holley, at both Jane and Lucky Phobia: Loud shoes And we quote: “How come I always feel more like Paula Poundstone when I’m going for Patti Smith?”
ALSO! KEEP A LOOKOuT FOR… Meg Moore, senior editor at Pioneer Press Newspapers Marie Joelle Parent, NYC news and entertainment correspondent at Sun Media Canada Lynn Furge, senior fashion editor at The
Dirty Durty Diary Vida Schuman, fashion director at Oklahoma Magazine Alexandra Hall, fashion editor at The Improper Bostonian Bjorn Nasett, fashion writer at Milwaukee Magazine
Then: Deputy Outlook section editor at The Washington Post Now: Editor of Style/Features at the publication Hails from: Lancaster, PA Astrological sign: Leo Best-seller: Her book, The Perfect Wife: The Life and Choices of Laura Bush Bush, is Barnes & Nobles's 466,640th most popular
Lisa Armstrong Then: Fashion editor at The Times UK Now: Fashion editor at The Telegraph Hobby: Collecting antique coffee cups Collaboration: Designed Vuitton's Ultimate Travel Bag in 2007 And we quote: “If you and I were 16th-century prostitutes wading through the Venetian filth, I could see a point to us balancing precariously on two blocks of wood.”—on lamenting the comeback of clogs
Luke Leitch Then: Associate fashion editor, features writer and deputy features editor at The Times UK Now: Deputy fashion editor at The Telegraph Dubious style icons: David Niven and golfer Ian Poulter Reason he confuses us: He once called fashion bloggers ““liggers with laptops.”
Benjamin Liong Setiawan Then: Niche Media's fashion and accessories editor Now: Editor-at-large at Racked.com Now Signs of early ambition: Setiawan was a certified travel agent in high school. Parsons besties: The Proenza Schouler boys, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez Feats of physique: Two NYC marathons, three skydiving excursions
Chelsea Zalopany Then: Contributing features writer at Vogue, Sally Singer’s assistant Now: Features writer at T: The New York Times Style Magazine, Sally Singer’s assistant Homeland: Hawaii Black Swan moment: She trained at the School of American Ballet Breakfast: Sausage links from the Times cafe Breakfas Who knew? Her driver’s license reads 5'7", but she’s 5'11" sans heels.
Erin Kleinberg and Stephanie Mark Then: Kleinberg was Alex White's intern; Mark styled with Leslie Fremar Now: Kleinberg designs an eponymous line; Mark is a freelance stylist. Together the duo runs thecoveteur.com How they met: When Kleinberg sold her first collection to Barneys at 18, Stephanie was her fit model.
Eleanor Natili, fashion columnist at Knit ‘N Style Pamala Gomes, EIC of Addikted2Fashion Jessica Hoffman, contributing beauty editor at Disfunkshion Magazine Indira Cesarine, creative director at XXXX Magazine
Rachel Scroggins, photographer for The Greyest Ghost fashion blog Celia San Miguel, EIC and founder of Sicka Than Average site Anton Brookes, owner and founder of Mock Turtle Moon Productions (Freelance) G E T T y ( 2 ) ; PAT R I C K M C M u L L A N . C O M ( 3 )
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JOANNA HILLMAN “It� Bazaar Editor
DIANNA AGRON Glee Go-Getter
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in ter nationa l eDition
volume 7 issue 131
h ig h l ig h t s HISTORY
Town & Country to tap only living centenarian design director to complete its 1911 look,
se P t e m Be r 8 , 2011
chic SHALL T
we ather
page 2
68˚ yet sultry
Fa s h i o n ’ s F i n e s t n e w s s o u r c e * c h i c s h a l l o t. c o m
Afton fLoRAbeLLe LAWson fAIReY Anointed Vogue’s “Girl of the Moment”
page 3a
PSYCHOLOGY
54% of editors now privately refer to themselves as brands and vow to sell themselves someday, study finds, page 5B
i n s i de HOUSING
David Carey “swears” that Elle will move into Hearst Tower by third quarter 2013,
(NEW YORK) over the last 13 months—the entirety of her young life— east Village residents have become awestruck by afton Florabelle lawson Fairey, who has been strolling around tompkins square Park in a custom wardrobe of missoni, Viktor & rolf and theyskens’ theory. the young fashionette, who attends no fewer than five industry events a week, has al-
ready enchanted Vogue’s 25-year-old society editor, chloe malle. “there is no better symbol for the modern youthquake moment than afton,” malle insisted while giving the shallot a segway tour of crown heights, Brooklyn. “she defies everything conventional, like toilet training. she’s totally non-verbal until she finds something relevant to say. For now, her world is entirely
visual, which is something that we, at Vogue, can respect. and her music taste is out of this world.” according to her mother, Elle’s anne slowey, she’s into “the third movement of the ring cycle, the ting tings, and for irony’s sake, selena Gomez.” as soon as afton learns to walk, she is expected to collaborate with George esquivel on a line of loafers.
Alexander Wang Dumbstruck by Return to Ladylike Dressing
VeLVeetA fAshIon WeeK LAUnChes In AstoRIA
page 4C
CAthY hoRYn’s sex LIfe is the #1 topic of Conversation Among 22-65 Year old fashionettes
SPORTS
Sally Singer will do one push-up for every issue of T read cover-to-cover, page 33D
GOSSIP
Stunning beauty heiress rumored to be “seeing” top global politician; everyone a little bit jealous and embarrassed by that jealousy, page 11F
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
(NEW YORK) Designer darling alexander wang has built his reputation—and his fashion empire—on the sort of rumpled downtown chic that makes little sense above 59th street. But with trends veering decidedly away from $400 biker shorts and sweats-inspired microskirts, wang is undergoing an identity crisis. “this wasn’t supposed to happen,” he said over a doppio at the bar at sant ambroeus, which he swears he only frequents for “market research.” “see that girl?” he said, pointing at a Jason wu-clad leslie schulhof. “this time last year, she’d have been wearing my plaid raver brogues and granny panties!” in an attempt to please the market, wang has petitioned steven Kolb to anoint carolina herrera and oscar de la renta as his mentors. “i can do classy as well as the next rockabilly twentysomething,” he insisted, sketching out a ballgown festooned with blush-colored canary plumes. “Do you think mrs. obama might go for this?”
(NEW YORK) a recent eugene lang survey of dinner table conversation at the lion, the standard Grill, the waverly inn and indochine has generated some surprising conclusions. “our initial finding was that nobody really cares about anthony weiner anymore,” said Bryce mcFaddenstein, PhD, who oversaw the study. “it is a little bit sad, but also, totally predictable. what shocked us, though, was all this talk of ‘cathy and art’—obsession, really. we had expected the fashionistas to express more concern about the increasing prices of raw materials, the evolving department store business, and anna and shelby.”
(NEW YORK) as first reported by the Shallot, an exciting new fashion event will storm Kew Gardens this week, capitalizing on the great success of other dairy-oriented projects. Velveeta Fashion week, Presented by lactaid, is expected to showcase designers “that represent the amalgamation of food and fashion,” said Velveeta’s creative director, Jack croque. “By aligning with fashion, Velveeta will effectively confirm that its core customer—children ages three to six—will grow strong and chic.” Velveeta’s iconic package of fat-free slices inspired a monumental tent erected behind the wal-mart. The Queens Tribune and Bryanboy.com are the exclusive media sponsors. pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m ( 5 ) ; G e t t y ( 2 ) ; B Fa n yc . c o m ( 2 ) ; s h u t t e r s to c k ( 1 2 )
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