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The
front row Brandusa Niro Editor in Chief, CEO
Creative Angel
dearest
gilles bensimon
milano
It’s unthinkable that your first-in-class fashion week has rocked along for half a century without its very own loving and loyal global chronicler. Many of you have asked us to publish here, and now, The Daily has arrived! A Eur-ific sister of New York’s beloved 9-year-old must-read, The Daily Front Row, The Daily Milan will regale you with the same scintillating mix of hard news, haute parties and irresistible goss, plus the buzziest intel on your rainmaking fashion capital. Consider our premiere season of The Daily a long love letter to you from the American publication that has made fashion week its raison d’être. Fluent in both chic and Italian—but published in English—The Daily debuts with three issues, arriving every other day to all major show venues, hotels, restaurants, shops and everywhere the fashion world converges, to illuminate your glory and splendor for the thousands of fashion editors, retailers, photographers, journalists and trendsetters who flock to you from every corner of the world for the ultimate fashion experience. The extra 250,000 online readers of our website, fashionweekdaily.com, are along for the ride. Why The Daily? Because you deserve it. Why in English? Because the world at large has yet to perfect its Italian. (Peccato!) You, Milano, are the Duomo of world style. Starting today, think of us as your trusted chronicler. You will love having us around, and the global fashion elite will love getting to know you better. That’s a promise! As for us, we don’t disagree with Giuseppe Verdi when he said, “You may have the universe if I may have Italy.”
Brandusa Niro and Gilles Bensimon
Executive Editor Ashley Baker Art Director Guillaume Bruneau Italian Editor Silvia Paoli Managing Editor Tangie Silva Photo Director Rick Boeth Senior Editors Alexis Clark, Eddie Roche Writer/Reporters Maria Denardo, Alexandra Ilyashov Copy Editors Allison Klein, Alexandra Taylor, Joy Wood Deputy Art Director Teresa Shaughnessy Senior Designer Sheila Prevost Photo Editor Ann Tortorelli Prod./Creative Services Director Allison Coles Production Director Milan Ludovica D’Angelo Imaging Specialists George Maier, Patrick Rumore Research Editors Shalwah Evans, Lixandra Urresta Group Web Manager Daniel Chivu Italian Publisher Mariolina Siclari Senior Vice President Lee Rosenbaum Publisher Louis A. Sarmiento Associate Publisher Gregg Martinez Publishing Consultant Cindy Lewis Marketing Director Fred Miketa Account Executives Gary Lacinski, Darcie Vukovich, Anjali Raja Distribution Manager El Kazan To advertise, contact: Mariolina Siclari mariolina.siclari@burda.com +39 (0) 335 77 81 848
DAILY FRONT ROW, INC.
The Daily Front Row is a Daily Front Row, Inc. publication. Copyright 2011©. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. Requests for reprints must be submitted in writing to: The Daily, Attn: Tangie Silva,135 West 50th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10020. Printed by Grafiche Mazzucchelli S.pA.,Via Cá Bertonica 37, 24068 Seriate (BG) - Italy Italian Office: BCNI Italia S.r.l Via Privata delle Stelline,1, 20146 Milano
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e r e h t righ
riuccia, a M r u o y m o r f iuccia M r u o y w o zanni n o k S u r o u o y Do y d n a i, ll r Agne u o y m o r f i ll e t r e your B ! ? T s e T e h T from your Vanni e k Ta
italian actress gina lollobrigida is fitted by emilio schuberth on set in madrid in 1958. FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
v i s i t m i l a n o. i t; g e t t y ( 4 ) ; r e x u sa ( 2 ) ; s h u t t e r sto c k ; pat r i c k m c m u l l a n . c o m
giorgio armani adjusts a mannequin inside his emporio armani store in February 1989
1. Which italian designer launched his career in the ballroom of giovanni Battista giorgini’s Florence estate? A. Emilio Schuberth B. Salvatore Ferragamo C. Guccio Gucci D. Giorgio Armani 2. as of a 2006 exhibition of her clothing at london’s victoria and albert museum, anna piaggi owns how many dresses? A. 923 B. Over 8,000 C. 2,865 D. 299
3. Which designer launched a line of chocolate easter eggs? A. Jil Sander B. Domenico Dolce C. Roberto Cavalli D. Valentino Garavani
B. Salvatore Ferragamo C. Giorgio Armani D. Gianfranco Ferré 9. From 1972-1974, gianfranco Ferré worked as… A. A steamboat captain B. A raincoat designer C. A driver for Karl Lagerfeld D. An intelligence agent in the Italian police force 10. the prima colazione savoia breakfast at the principe will cost your company… A. 33 euro B. 18.50 euro C. 40 euro D. 51 euro
4. What is the name of the tuscan football club owned by Diego Della valle? A. Caravaggio B. Toscanini C. Fiorentina D. Tres Fiori
11. armani hQ is located on via Bergognone, a street named after… A. Ambrogio Bergognone, a famous Italian painter B. Alessandra Bergognone, an architect and distant relative of Carla Bruni C. Ottavio Bergognone, the inventor of the gramophone D. Vittorio Bergognone, a notorious ladies’ man who held minor political offices in the 18th century
5. the palazzo giureconsulti is… A. The official location of Milan Fashion Week B. A palace with famous Italian paintings, including the Last Supper C. The oldest restaurant in Milan D. George Clooney’s favorite hotel
12. giorgio armani initially studied to be… A. An architect B. A doctor C. An entomologist D. A graphic designer
7. Which designer said, “With women, the more unhappy they are, the more undressed they are. this is true.”? A. Donatella Versace B. Miuccia Prada C. Gianfranco Ferré D. Tom Ford 8. Which designer graced the cover of Time in 1982? A. Miuccia Prada
What your score means!
0-5 correct ansWers you are…tommy tommy ton! A relative newbie on the Milan Fashion circuit, you’re still hell-bent on making a splash. Keep studying your Daily and you’ll be up to snuff in no time.
13. Which designer apprenticed with yohji yamamoto? A. Ennio Capasa B. Roberto Rimondi C. Alessandro Dell’Acqua D. Raf Simons 14. Who is the current owner of sant ambroeus? A. La Rinascente B. Dimitri Pauli C. Patrizio Bertelli D. Fauchon 15. Where did roberto cavalli meet his wife eva? A. At the Club Cavalli in Dubai B. At one of Franca’s dinner parties C. At the 1977 Miss Universe pageant, where she was a contestant and he, a judge D. At a beach just outside of Riomaggiore 5-10 correct ansWers you are…Dasha asha Zhukova! A power player already—congrats! You’ve got the basics down pat, but not the subtle machinations of this dolce vita. Ask Patrizio Bertelli for a crash course. Something tells us he’s game!
10-15 correct ansWers you are…roBerto erto cavalli! Congratulations, Dailyettes! You’ve put in the work to know tutto about this fashion capital and you’ve now made Milan your home no matter where you’re from.
ANSWERS: 1.A 2.C 3.C 4.C 5.A 6.D 7.B 8.C 9.B 10.D 11.A 12.B 13.A 14.D 15.C
6. Which company has not, at some point, been partly owned by patrizio Bertelli? A. Church’s B. Gucci Group C. Jil Sander D. Hervé Léger
the Roberto Bolle
Madonna Jennifer Lopez Bar Refaeli
your daily dose
Heidi Klum
Kenneth Cole
Lapo Elkann
Gala to Discuss: On the 23rd, MFW’s chicest show-goers will storm La Permanente for amfAR’s ultra-glossy fundraiser, chaired by Marisa Berenson, Roberto Bolle, Kenneth Cole, Luca Dini, Lapo Elkann, Eva Herzigova, Heidi Klum and Bar Refaeli. Tickets start at 1500 euro, while a Grand Philanthropist table goes for 50,000. Make sure to save some for the auction!
Gucci
Goes to Florence!
SCENE
So many parties, so much traffico! Hire the most seasoned driver you can afford... ☛ Tonight will be rough. At 7 p.m., Gucci’s flagship on Montenapoleone is toasting its reopening—as is the Louis Vuitton boutique just down the street. Katie Grand (and maybe Marc Jacobs!) will host cocktails en boutique at 7 p.m., followed by a private dinner at the Triennale for the opening of the Grand-curated exhibition “Louis Vuitton: The Art of Fashion.” But first! Ferragamo’s inaugural collection of jewels Katie will be revealed in the stunning gardens of PalaGrand zzo Borromeo d’Adda—which is never open to the public—from 7 to 10 p.m. at Via Manzoni 39-41. ☛An Anna/Franca side project? Mais oui! The Vogue editrixes are promoting young talent with their chic Marc org, the Who Is On Next fashion fund. Congratulate Jacobs them at their cocktail party at Palazzo Morando, Via Sant’ Andrea 6, from 8 to 10 p.m. on the 23rd.
Sunset express to Firenze, please! On September 25th, A-listers and other assorted top types will hit Florence for the opening of the Gucci Museum. Expect to go gaga over an art installation from Monsieur Pinault’s storied collection while you tour the Palazzo Della Mercanzia, a 14th century palace, and dine at the Palazzo Vecchio. Hopefully you’ll be seated near Madge and J.Lo! and J.Lo!
Moncler Fêtes Bruce Weber! Weber’s ’s new film for Moncler, Don’t Steal the Jacket, will premiere on the 24th at the Palazzo Litta Theater. Afterwards, the brand’s chairman Remo Ruffini will host an exclusive dinner in the gardens of Palazzo Litta.
Why we love Milano! IMAN spills Favorite memories of Milan? In my heyday—and we’re talking early eighties—there would be a group of men waiting to welcome you as soon as you checked in the hotel. Wherever you went, they magically appeared. There was always someone to take care of me! Do you have a favorite show? Versace! Versace! Versace! Gianni took everything up a notch. He was the first to book me exclusively. That was the first big check I received from walking in a show—he had to pay me for all the other shows I missed. Backstage, there were massages, manicures, pedicures—it was like a day at the spa! By the time I walked, I felt like a million dollars. And I had about million dollars in the bank! Ha! What makes Milan special to you? The Italians! Great food, great wine, beautiful clothes, craftsmanship—and great shopping! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
KARLIE KLOSS
dishes Which word best describes Milan? Power! Favorite memories? So many! We always get into trouble in Milan—the good kind. And I love racing to shows on a motorbike. I feel like I’m in a scene from a movie. All those narrow streets...guys yelling at me in Italian...And of course, I have to hold onto my driver for dear life. It doesn’t hurt that the drivers are always really cute! What are you most looking forward to in Milan this season? The tiramisù. There’s one place in particular that makes the best in the world—I always go with my girlfriends. It’s open very late, so if I have a midnight fitting or casting, I go afterwards. What’s it called? I’m not telling. It’s a secret!
VERONICA WEBB Remembers What was your favorite Milan show? When Gianni was at Versace, it was magical. Every girl had her own spotlight and the runway was made of the best Italian marble you’ve ever seen. Where was this? At the Fiera, always on the last day of the collections. Oribe always did the hair and the wigs were outrageously glamorous. The collection I remember the best was based on safety pins. It was such an x-factor moment in fashion—the perfect cross section of youth, rebellion and wealth.
o n t H E C o v E R : D a P H n E G R o E n E v E L D i n E M i L i o P u C C i Fa L L 2 0 1 1 , P H oto G R a P H B y F i R s t v i E W : B o s s E L L i ; G E t t y, t H i s P a G E : G E t t y ( 1 0 ) ; F i R s v i E W ( 2 ) ; s G P ; P a t R i C K M C M u L L a n . C o M ; s H u t t E R s t o C K
we focus on fashion
focus on pictures... firstview.com
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the
your daily dose Of all the glorious places to indulge, this trio of trattorias rises above the rest—if your dining habits are any indication!
bice!
torre Di pisa!
Was it really 72 years ago that Roberta Ruggeri’s grandmother Beatrice Bice Mungai founded this classic? The proprietress spills:
Not much has changed at Ettore Gallarello’s perenially young haute spot—which turned 60 this year! Typical patrons: “The famous Formula 1 pilot Giancarlo Baghetti began coming here years ago. Then the models arrived. They ate little and attracted a lot! Mr. Berlusconi used to come when his office was located in Via Mercato.” How do you handle the crowd? “We try to show empathy and absorb all the stress and the lack of time the fashion folks have. They come for lunch between shows, and need to eat quickly, so we try to speed up the process—but it’s impossible to cook quicker then a dish deserves.” Craziest stories, please! “Queen Rania brings a bodyguard to the table...but you cannot imagine what happened with Roberto Saviano (author of “Gomorra”, an anti-mafia book) came in. We even had a guard in the kitchen!”
Favorite customer? “Mr. [Gianni] Versace. He always used to order Gavi Lascola white wine—he even asked for extra bottles for his summer vacations in Sardinia.” Celeb regulars: “Naomi [Campbell]. She always visits us when she’s in town, or sends her bodyguard to pick up some lunch if she cannot be here. Last time, she sent the captain of the private jet to collect lunch before leaving for Saint Tropez. Jet-service included: penne all’arrabbiata, cotolette alla milanese, spinaci saltati con aglio e peperoncino, tiramisù.” How do we reserve the table next to the kitchen, hidden from the rest of the restaurant? “Well...look, it’s a VIP favorite! Robert De Niro wants it every time!”
“I switch off between da Giacomo and Giacomo Arengario.” —Franca Sozzani
“For an aperitivo? Any random bar on the Navigli!” —Ennio Capasa “Try the cheese and ham tasting at Le Rosse at Corso Garibaldi, 79!”—Chiarra Ferragni
where
(and how)
you indulge!
“I enjoy eating very much—I have never followed a diet!” —Melissa Satta
Da giacomo! When you want the best celeb sightings in town, you know who to call: Cristian Taormina, who manages all the madness at this storied Milanese institution. How hectic is it, anyway? “We have a few main seatings—7, 10, and 11 p.m. It’s really a challenge, but we have fun! It’s like an international living room. The atmosphere is sparkling, but still familiar. I like it when people stand up to go to another table to say hello to friends and colleagues.” Giorgio and Roberta Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Giorgio Guidotti, Stefano Gabbana, Miuccia Prada...Does everyone come here? “The last time Miuccia Prada was here, she had lunch with Afef Tronchetti Provera. “What do you feel like eating?” we asked. She said, “Hmm...I feel like eating…avocado!” But we didn’t have dishes with avocado on the menu, and our vegetable delivery was slated for later in the afternoon. So, one of our guys rushed to a store to buy the best avocados, which we served plain and simple. We try to do our very best for our customers!”
“I recommend La
Latteria on via San Marco. The pasta with lemon is very good!”—Teresa Missoni
Gilles Bensimon. Silvia Paoli (3); SGP (3); Getty (2); FirstView, Shutterstock.
“I love Chinese food, so I suggest Mandarin 2 on Via Garofalo.” —Alessandro Dell’Acqua
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MOSC HINO Chic and cheek met for the first time in Milan in the deliciously decadent imagination of Franco Moschino. Italy’s enfant terrible invented irreverance and quickly made it fashionable. How fitting that he had his start in 1971 sketching collections . for master Gianni Versace. Fall 1998
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
m
Twice a year, the chicest of the chic descend upon fashion’s most underrated capital (the heat! the cold! the rain! the distance from Malpensa! the exhaust fumes! the exhaustion!), to witness a semi-annual miracle called the Italian collections. We squeeze into our tiny chairs in ancient palazzos under punishing runway lights, and, when everything goes dark,
Fashion
moments we anticipate the moment that brought us here, the moment when emotion overtakes us, when we fall in love with Milano all over again. Miuccia’s baroque monkeys... Armani’s sublime Tuaregs ...Cavalli’s seafoam Aphrodites...Every precious runway moment with Gianni…
Why Milano? The answer is you. Rex USA
Ferr ĂŠ Ultimate supe Carla Bruni in full splendor. If Carla could sing about it, it would have to be with Mick Jagger! Spring 1992
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
CAVAL LI Italian fashion’s most likely movie star, roberto Cavalli could have definitely had a career in Hollywood. Never mind—his dresses are as much a Hollywood legend as the screen goddesses wearing them. September 2005
R e x U S A ; W i R e i m Ag e
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
VerSA Ce Why Milano without Gianni? A question that bears no answer. We wish we could embrace him today as his beloved glamazons did two decades ago. Spring 1992
CORBiS
ArMA NI They speak of him as the King of Italian fashion – the newspapers, the buyers, the waiter at da Giacomo. The most universally acclaimed Italian designer of all time continues to fascinate. May 1979
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
SWISH J eANS This saucy denim brand has taken the emperor’s clothes off, quite literally. In their Dadaistic moment they replaced cloth with‌poetry. 1999
g e t t y; S g p
momen ts
magic
More!
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
A p ( 1 1 ) ; S g p ( 7 ) ; g e t t y( 3) ; F i R S t V i e W( 2) ; S h U t t e R S t O C k
GUCC I A Florentine house of Borgian-style past was home for a while to a young model-turneddesigner from Texas. As he waves goodbye to Gucci, Tom Ford and the fashion world sigh. The end of an era. Fall 2004
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
DOLCe & GA BBAN A Too tall, too blonde, and too Polish to be Sicilian, and yet dressed as if she’s just emerged from the painting of a milkmaid from di Lampedusa’s estate at Donnafugata. Magdalena Frackowiack: a muse for the millenium. Spring 2011 A F p/g e t t y; F i R S t V i e W
CAVA LLI Italian fashion at its flashiest and most celebratory. roberto Cavalli’s stable of powerful muses, like Alec Wek, translate his unique message to the masses. Spring 2000 FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
BLUMArINe Was it really seventeen years ago that the eternally gamine Kate Moss tried out her first bridal looks on the runway? Just this summer, of course, the fantasy was realized as she wed Jamie Hince. Fall 1993
Sgp; gAmmA
FASHION
BELONGS HERE For the storied chairman of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, there’s never been a better time for Italian fashion. The Daily caught up with the inimitable Cavaliere Mario Boselli at his HQ in downtown Milan.
h
ow do the four most important fashion weeks—New York, London, Milan, and Paris differ? New York is the capital of branding. The houses do an excellent job at marketing. London is the place to see young designers and pure creativity, even though there are few manufacturers. Paris is a carrefour; a meeting point—it is a city of great appeal, where everyone wants to go, and the leader of haute couture. Milan is the capital of prêt-à-porter and of Made in Italy excellence. If you take 100 of the shows held in Milan, 90 percent are by Italian fashion houses. If you look at 100 of the collections shown in Paris, only 50 percent are from French maisons. What were the key moments in Milan Fashion Week’s history? Italian fashion was born in Florence on February 12, 1951, but the seventies, eighties and nineties were the decades of great growth. Then came 2005, which marked the beginning of an American offensive to shorten our fashion week from 10 days to four. This lasted until February 2010, when Italian designers reacted with a fit of pride after two editors-in-chief attempted to transform Milan Fashion Week into a long weekend. So we went back to a seven-day schedule. We also changed locations from Fiera Milano to the city center, with the Giureconsulti Palace as the center of gravity. The move was much appreciated all around, even by designers who show at their own headquarters. Tell us about you: How did you get elected? The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana chairman is elected by the members’ assembly. I’m currently serving my fourth term. I did want to withdraw, but I was re-elected by unanimous vote, so really, I could not. Is there another chairman you admire? Santo Versace. His term, beginning in 1998, lasted only a year and a half, but he succeeded in opening up the Camera to many people—it was very closed at that time. I have tried to follow his direction. I am also grateful to the Camera’s honorary chairman Beppe Modenese, who invented Milano Collezioni, which was later named Milano Moda Donna. Which publication or journalist has best supported the Camera’s work? After September 2010, I can only speak well of all our media, but usually, the French press is more generous with coverage of their fashion collections than the Italians are with ours! FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Who else makes Milan Fashion Week run so smoothly? My staff is comprised of 100 percent women—I need some men! I tried to have at least one man in the administration, but the women “killed” three of them, so I gave up. These women are very efficient, so I have to mention all: First is the director, Giulia Pirovano, a very strong woman, honest, with great morality. And then Emanuela at the press office, Paola in the training and young generations projects; Carlotta at the administrative organization; Alessandra, who follows the calendars—she is really a saint!—Eleonora in foreign affairs, and Federica at reception. And then we have the ladies in accounting and finance, Mrs. Redaelli and Mrs. Arvati. What does the Camera Nazionale della Moda have in common with the White House? Very little, I believe. We are surely not a center of power—we’re more like a service center. When I accepted this job, many people said, “Are you crazy? It’s impossible to handle all this!” Well, it’s true—one needs to be able to round off angles and face the unexpected. Actually, like the White House, we have to be able to cope with sudden changes. In three hours, everything can be different! Does Milan really need an entire week to present its collections? We present between 180 and 200 collections, and 70 of those are fashion shows. For a buyer to attend shows and see the presentations as well, seven days are really necessary. We tried to meet the requests of all people involved, building a more relaxed schedule. The shows will never start before 9:30 a.m., and the last one of the day will begin at 8:30 p.m. There will always be an hour-and-a-half break for lunch. How are you maintaining Milan’s status as a fashion capital? We have to make room for young talent. In the last five years, we’ve become increasingly aware of this critical issue. The great names in Italian fashion are grand in talent, but also, in age, so we are betting on our young designers. We support awards like Mittelmoda, Who Is on Next?, the shows of NUDE (New and Upcoming Designers) and also Incubator, which functions more to implement a start-up for a new fashion company. We signed an agreement with China for a mutual exchange: we will host young Chinese designers, who are creating original collections—they have such a long tradition and history—and we will help medium size Italian fashion companies to have a distribution in China. In March 2012, we will hold the Milano Moda Showroom in Shanghai. What do you love most about Milan? Saturdays and Sundays, when the city turns livable again, when streets are quieter, and sidewalks are left for the pedestrians. How would you describe your Milano? Maybe I’m nostalgic, but my Milano is an enlightened bourgeois who embarks on business adventures with great courage and engages in very little social climbing.
“
Maybe I’m nostalgic, but my Milano is an enlightened bourgeois who embarks on business adventures with great courage and engages in very little social climbing.�
b o s e l l i : e r b a m a r c o/ to m a a n to n i o/s G P ; G e t t y; s h u t t e r sto c k
n a l i m k e we
n o i h s a f
Why is it so VITAL?
Roberto Cavalli
Chiara Ferragni
Carla Vanni, EIC, Grazia International Network: “Milan Fashion Week is essential to get the vibe of the moment and know what will be really in fashion next season.” Giulia Pirovano, director, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana: “The word Milan is synonymous with Made in Italy, which means luxury, quality, and innovation.” Cristina Cavatore, communications director, Piazza Sempione: “From a creative standpoint, we boast some of the most talented designers in the world.” Roberto Cavalli: “Many of the most exclusive and commercial brands have their shows here.” Ennio Capasa, Costume National: “For me, Made in Italy is not only a matter of fashion—it’s a way of life. It’s eating well and living in beautiful houses.” Daniela Fedi, fashion critic, Il Giornale: “We Italians have many friends in fashion. So we have to go and see their work, even if we have 25 other press conferences and shows to attend!” Alberta Ferretti: “Everybody has to come to Milan for
three fundamental reasons—creativity, quality, and business.” Giorgio Guidotti, communications president, MaxMara: “It’s a moment of great visibility for Italian fashion.” Chiara Ferragni, blogger, Blonde Salad:“It is the most important fashion week of all!” Franca Sozzani, EIC, Vogue Italia: “There is no other country in the world with such a concentration of big brands known all around the world.” Rosella Jardini, creative director, Moschino: “Milan is where prêt-à-porter was born.” Alessandro Dell’Acqua, designer, N˚21: “It’s the pioneer of all fashion weeks, and two-thirds of the most important collections in the world are shown here.” Teresa Missoni: “The best designers are here, trends are generated here...the week is like a giant brainstorm!”
Eva Cavalli Daniela Fedi
Ennio Capasa
Cristina Cavatore
Rosella Jardini The
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
Discuss!
What do you predict for Spring 2012?
“Why isn’t an Italian first lady attending the Armani show?” —Daniela Fedi
if you could change
Fedi: “I expect designers to become seriously aware of this fact: one out of two kids will be overweight in 2012. Maybe they will stop creating dresses for skinny women only.” Giacinti: “I expect a better understanding of the new climate conditions. I didn’t see a single closed-toe shoe at pre-collection presentations. but sometimes, it’s cold. It even rains!”
AnyThIng... Pirovano: “I’d love to give even more space to new and emerging fashion designers.” Cavalli: “The traffic!” Jardini: “I’d ban photographers and TVs. I know it’s impossible, but they ruin all the surprise of seeing the collections in the boutiques.” Ferragni: “I would encourage young talent.” Antonia Giacinti, Antonia Boutique: “I’d cancel 50 percent of the names on the calendar and replace them with up-and-coming designers. Also, there should be fewer shows and more showroom presentations where you can appreciate the clothes. And I would light up the city at night to inspire the Milanese to go out.” Sozzani: “I would make the selection for the shows either stricter or wider, in order to be more open to younger talent.”
fashion week in
one Word Cristina Cavatore: “Relevant.”
Style.”
unforgettable
Carla Vanni: “
moments
Ennio Capasa: “Fundamental.” Eva Cavalli:
Fedi: “After the first show of Tom Ford’s successors at Gucci, we saw animal rights demonstrators shouting and protesting as soon as we got outside. A foreigner came close to me and whispered, ‘Who are they? Tom Ford’s friends?’ I laughed so much.” Ferretti: “I remember once we had our show on the eighth of March and it was snowing. All the foreign buyers were astonished. They asked, ‘Is this really Italy, the country of the sun?’” Dell’Acqua: “In 1982, I worked for designer Enrica Massei during the fashion shows, at Fiera Milano. It was late at night, and they told me: ‘Now you stay here and scrape the soles of all the models’ shoes for tomorrow.’ There were around 200 shoes. When I finished, the Fiera had closed and no one was inside. It was dark and I was trapped. I didn’t know which way to go, so I was locked in there all night. I think I cried. At 6 a.m. the Fiera-keepers opened the doors.” Missoni: “I’m quite used to the shows, which are always filled with great emotion, but I was really touched and moved at Missoni’s 50th anniversary show. At the end, the curtain fell to reveal a framework with all our workers. Every time I remember it, I get goosebumps.” Jardini: “With Franco [Moschino], the shows were really something, like when he asked the models to ‘walk’ the runway on their knees…and they did it! That was another generation of models—they even had fun…”
“Busy.”
Giorgio Guidotti:
Teresa Maccapani Missoni
“Frantic.”
Rosella Jardini: “ChAoTIC.” Alberta Ferretti: “Complete.” Giulia Pirovano: “decisive.” Teresa Missoni:
“Wild.”
Franca Sozzani: “buSTlING.” Chiara Ferragni: “Vital.”
Alberta Ferretti
Giorgio Guidotti
Carla Vanni
Alesandro Dell’Acqua
Giulia Pirovano
Franca Sozzani
Antonia Giacinti
S G P (6 ) ; G E T T y (6 ) ; B FA N yC . C o M ; PAT R I C k M C M u l l A N . C o M
GiamPietro Baudo
CHIC
Always in black, and toting a mini-clutch and a mobile phone, he does triple duty on MF Fashion, MFL (Magazine for Living) and MFF (Magazine for Fashion).
daniela Fedi The quicktongued fashion critic for Il Giornale has been a frontrow fixture for ages. More on her later!
ChIARA FERRAgnI As Italy’s most popular fashion blogger, her site Blonde Salad is a go-to read for socials, celebs, and other assorted chicsters.
Simone marchetti This fashion writer for Repubblica.it reports live from the front row via iPad. Want to make him happy? Show prints and brights.
The
CRITICS SteFano roncato
Paola Bottelli Both financial analyst and fashion editor, this bespeckled journalist for Il Sole 24 ore newspaper is also the woman behind the website luxury24.it. FA S H I O N W E E K d A I l y. c O m
laura aSnaGhi An editor at La Repubblica and a front row staple since the ‘80s, she’s known for her dishy weekly column “Elettrochic,” along with those sunglasses.
Baudo’s hugely influential design director, he represents the new generation of fashionettes. As a side gig, he’s creative director of Men in Italy, an art project supported by the Camera della Moda.
Cliques of Milan
You idolize the designers, you worship the models—but what about the decision-makers governing the front row (and beyond)? It’s about time you acquaint yourselves with the critics, editors, starlets, socialites and foreign press who make (or break) the shows.
criStina lucchini The new, hotlydiscussed editor of Amica. The november issue will mark her official debut.
The
Paola centomo A born-and-bred Condé nast girl, she is now editing Glamour Italia and developing buzzy digital projects, such as the Glamour Personal Shopper app.
EDITRIX
danda Santini Vera montanari This Grazia and Flair EIC is an institution unto herself. She’s also held top posts at Gioia and Marie Claire.
The editrix of Elle Italia, she honed her skills at Glamour. She’s known to be as pragmatic as she is stylish.
michela Gattermayer The founder of glossy style bible Velvet, she now serves as vice editor in chief of style for Vanity Fair Italia.
antonella antonelli After paying her dues in many roles at Marie Claire Italia, she was promoted to the top job.
GETTY (7); SGP(6); SHUTTERSTOCK
Belen rodriGuez This Argentinian bombshell is the new face of Miss Sixty.
Paola and chiara iezzi These Milan natives, who frequently dress alike, are known worldwide as the pop duo Paola e Chiara, which you likely remember from their massive 2000 hit single, “Vamos a bailar” (Let’s Dance).
eliSaBetta canaliS Reinventing herself in the wake of Clooney, she’ll definitely be front-row at Cavalli, who has repeatedly tapped her as a campaign model. The question is—on whose arm?
FA S H I O N W E E K d A I l y. c O m
anna tatanGelo A pop singer and former host of music talent show X-Factor, she goes by “Lady Tata.”
luca arGentero A star on reality show Big Brother Italy, he is also best friends with gucci’s creative director, Frida giannini.
meliSSa Satta An Americanborn actress and model who grew up in Sardinia and has posed for Maxim!
elena Santarelli host of the plastic surgery doc “Plastik,” mostly everything is real on this exmodel.
FiliPPa laGerBack This gorgeous Swede is cohosting top TV series “Che tempo che fa” along with the dapper Fabio Fazio.
The
STARLETS Fiammetta cicoGna Already an it-girl and TV host of reality hit show Tamarreide— and she’s barely in her twenties!
delFina delettrez The daughter of Silvia Fendi has a buzzy jewelry line and international coterie of chicster friends. She’s also a fixture at events like Art Basel.
amBra medda The co-founder of Design Miami, and close friend of Delfina Delettrez, she’s largely responsible for injecting the Art Basel Miami Beach scene with a healthy dose of Italia.
Bianca Brandolini d’adda This model and top social, frequently spotted on the arm of Lapo, is a favorite of editors like Emmanuelle Alt and Franca Sozzani.
coco Brandolini d’adda Née Cornelia, Bianca’s sister grew up in Paris and married Matteo Colombo in 2008. She’s currently a fashion consultant for brands such as ADAM and Alberta Ferretti.
SOCIALS
The
maria Sole BriVio SForza
laPo elkann Fiat heir and international man-abouttown, this dashing fashion fixture will be at every event that matters.
A descendant of one of the oldest and most noble families in Milan, you’ll see this chic social on the town with her husband Massimiliano Maggi.
Beatrice Borromeo Yes, she’s a countess, but she’s also the girlfriend of Pierre Casiraghi. After a stint at Il Fatto Quotidiano, she enrolled at Columbia University, where she’s now studying.
GETTY(17)
emmanuelle alt The newlyinstalled French Vogue editor is almost as wellknown for her falling-out with former best friend Carine Roitfeld as she is for her styling. The mag looks great, chérie! JeFFerSon hack The EIC of Dazed & Confused, this onetime boyf of Kate Moss is the father to her daughter, Lila grace. he’s been engaged to top model Anouck Lepère since 2006.
Glenda Bailey This American editrix has a penchant for Lanvin and Louboutin and often appears with a celeb at her side frontrow. She currently celebrates 10 years at Harper’s Bazaar US.
katie Grand Corporate indie editrix indeed. Condé nast made Love possible!
elizaBeth diJan The ultramodern EIC of avant-garde glossy Numero. Love the leather!
inGrid SiSchy The international editor of Vanity Fair counts Karl and Miuccia among her many intimates. Always accompanied by another intimate, co-editor Sandra Brant, she’s the ultimate stealth insider.
alexandra Shulman The highly respected editor of Vogue U.K. since 1992, she still rides her bike to work and drives newsstand sales with some of the best Vogue covers ever.
FA S H I O N W E E K d A I l y. c O m
anGelica cheunG The polished editor of Vogue China is one of the front row’s most understated— and popular— personalities.
eric WilSon The witty, friendly counterpart to New York Times critic Cathy horyn, he covers everything from moments to microtrends. Stop by and say hi!
VirGinie mouzat The intriguing fashion critic of Le Figaro was a top contender for the French Vogue gig. no worries— writing keeps her busy. Case in point? her sexy new novel, Une Femme Sans Qualites. Must read! Trust us.
Viktoria daVydoVa This young wunderkind moved quickly through the Condé ranks. She helmed Russian Tatler before taking the top spot at Vogue.
Suzy menkeS The legendary fashion critic of the International Herald Tribune holds the Legion d’honneur in France, a British OBE, and the respect of every designer in the business. She tends to file front-row from her laptop.
carine roitFeld Just because she’s no longer editing a magazine doesn’t mean that this former French Voguette will skip the shows. A styling gig with Barneys—and her upcoming new book, Irreverent—will keep her where she craves: front and center.
anna Wintour American Vogue’s inimitable editor in chief. We believe you’ve met?
StePhen Gan The founder and co-editor of V, this American darling (and close friend of Lady gaga!) also has a day job as creative director at Harper’s Bazaar.
The
FOREIGN PRESS
roBBie myerS This low-profile American Elle editrix is always seen with her high-profile creative director, Joe Zee.
Jane Bruton One of the cleverest editrixes in the biz. Who isn’t trying to replicate Grazia’s winning formula?
oliVier zahm Speaking of sexy! The EIC of Purple and frequent confidant of Karl is now an international figure of discussion thanks to the fashionable high jinks he publishes online at purple.fr/diary.
kSenia SoloVieVa An editor to watch who is now helming Russian Tatler. Elegant at all times! GETTY (7); PATRICKMCMULLAN.COM (5); SGP(2); BFANYC.COM (2); REXUSA
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Y E H
! O N A L MI
S E N O T S E L B B O C YOUR
R U O G N I L L I K E AR
S O T T E L STI y a w y an
U O Y E V O L E BUT W
BACI
ly i a d e h t
firstview; getty
A V e & o t rober At the Arco della Pace
I L L A V CA
Da Vinci’s “The Last Supper”
From the clothes to the wine to the clubs to the chocolate Easter eggs, Roberto Cavalli is a household name beloved around the world. A native of Tuscany, he and his wife Eva have set up his business in Milan, and now, they call the city home—for at least part of the year! What makes Milan special? RC: Unlike Florence, where I was born and raised, Milan has all of the hallmarks of a metropolis like London and New York. It’s the main center for all the communications related to my company; it’s where we all show our collections, gather together and meet with the press... But, business aside, Milan has a lot more to offer, such as a fantastic nightlife, with clubs like mine, the Just Cavalli Café, where you can go not just to dance, but to dine very well with friends. And why is Milan Fashion Week so important? RC: Milan is the undisputed capital of fashion. It’s a must on any serious fashion professional’s agenda, because ultimately, what we show on the runway decides next season’s trends. It’s also a time when the global fashion community meets in one place, so it’s a great time for networking and discussing business. What is your absolute favorite meal? RC: My favorite dish when I’m in Milan is risotto Milanese with a nice glass of my red Tenuta degli Dei wine. What is your most memorable art discovery in the city? RC: Oh, “The Last Supper,” of course! It’s one of the greatest masterpieces in the world! It’s truly an incredibly emotional
experience the first time you see it. It had quite an effect on me... it gave me a lot of inspiration. EC: For me, the Castello Sforzesco is still beautiful every time I see it, especially at night when it’s lit up, so lovely. When you need a quick getaway, what are your favorite secret place in Milan? RC: L’Arco della Pace is gorgeous and often overlooked. And what would you change about Milan, if you could? RC: The weather! I miss being surrounded by nature and my animals. As soon as I can, I escape to Florence to get back some peace and quiet. What’s the greatest misconception foreigners have about Milan? EC: They think it is just an industrial city, but, in fact, Milan is full of fun and life. Photography is another one of your passions. Which part of the city would you like to photograph? RC: The people on the streets, because Milan is a multicultural city. Italian fashion in three words, please. RC: Artisanal, sartorial and passionate.
10 tHINGS
Roberto Cavalli Fall 2011
The Just Cavalli Café
we don’t know about you 1 . I adore reading adventure books. 2. I’m a big fan of Duran Duran! 3. When I was small, I wanted to become a painter like my granddad. 4. I would love to be able to dance the tango! 5. When I was in Papua New Guinea, I met a group of cannibals! 6. I love being free... 7. I am a huge admirer of Gandhi. [AND ACCORDING TO EVA...] 8. He never drinks spirits. 9. He sings in the shower! 10. He absolutely adores his grandchildren. He dotes on them and spends his free time playing with them or watching cartoons! SGP (2); GETTY; FIRSTVIEW; SHUTTERSTOCK
Hangar Bicocca
Vogue Italia editrix since 1988, Franca Sozzani is the power engine of Italian Fashion. At the helm of the ultimate European glossy, she leads with an artsy edge, works with the best photographers and scouts the new faces of top models. Need more? She launched vogue.it, has a blog, and promotes young designers with the contest Who Is on Next? So it’s no surprise when she said, “The best and worst aspect of Milanese people is they work 24 hours a day…” What makes Milano special for you? The city is full of gardens that are hidden inside palaces, so while the city may look cold, the quality of life here is much better than in many other cities in Italy. In the entire world, actually. What are your favorite places in Milan? The Bagatti Valsecchi Museum. Many walk by it, but very few actually visit. It has a very peculiar history. My other favorites are the Museo del Novecento, Teatro alla Scala, Santa Maria delle Grazie, and the gardens of Santa Maria delle Grazie. And the G. Lorenzi on Montenapoleone is a very special store. My home, of course, is also special. It’s on a secret island. I never let anyone shoot it, so it’s private. Where do you eat? I still go to La Torre di Pisa. I don’t visit many hotels, but in the summer, I go to the Bulgari to dine in the gardens. Who are your favorite Milanese? If I had to list those who made Milan the center of fashion and design, I would mention at least 100 people, so it’s hard to choose just one! But the work of Armani, Prada, and Kartell have made the world change how it looks at Italy. As for
FRANCA
I N A Z SOZ what I like about Milanese people in general? Their ability to be overproductive, to work 24/7. But this is also also a big disadvantage! What would you change about Milan, if you could? The city needs more theaters and a museum for contemporary art. Give us a fond fashion memory! Well, when the age of the Versace supermodels began, around 1988, I had just started at Vogue. We shot them, and called them by their first names—until that moment, we hadn’t been referring to them as anything in particular—and soon, they became as famous as actresses.
6 THINGS
we don’t know about you
1. In my free time, I like to be on my own. I’m not so social! 2. I’m ironic, but often people misinterpret that as making fun of someone or something. 3. I’m very curious and open to what others say, no matter who is speaking. 4. I love to read and watch films. 5. I like to sleep for a long time. 6. I don’t play any sports or go to the gym.
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M s oz a n n I : fa B I o I o n a / s g p
Colonne di San Lorenzo
Endless titles at the Milano Libri bookstore
10 Corso Como
MaxMara’s president of communications, Giorgio Guidotti, is a bona-fide Italian gentleman. Elegant, brilliant, and charming, he’s everywhere fashion calls: the awards in Los Angeles, shoots in New York, the Beijing and upcoming Moscow exhibitions, or a meeting in Reggio Emilia, where the group is headquartered. But this is the MaxMara way: a giant international business with solid Italian roots.
giorgio
MaxMara Fall 2011
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
What do you love about Milan? The energy—it’s very Italian! Where do you shop? Where do you drink? 10 Corso Como is always recommended—for both! For a spa treatment, get a massage with Salvatore at the Bulgari Hotel Milan. My favorite aperitivo is a vodka martini with olives at the Grand Hotel et de Milan. How about art? I have a funny anecdote: I was once asked by a legendary American editor, “Why can’t we bring ‘The Last Supper’ to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for an exhibition?” It was a bit delicate to explain that “The Last Supper” is a fresco—a bit hard to ship. Do you have any secret hideaways? I love the traditional Italian pasticceria Cucchi for cappuccino, brioches, and retro atmosphere; it’s The Grand popular among fashion editors Hotel and PR people. Not far from it is the church by the Colonne di San Lorenzo. That corner can really compete with the beauty of Rome. I also like Milano Libri bookstore on Via Verdi. Great selection of titles. What would you change about Milan? I would love a cleaner city, with no graffiti and fewer cars.
i t t o d gui
photography by gilles bensimon f i r s t v i e w ; g e t t y ; c a r lt o n b a g l i o n i
Mandarin 2
O R D N A S S ALE
No. 21 Spring 2011
A U Q C A ' DELL Vicolo dei Lavandai
Born in Naples, Alessandro Dell’Acqua moved to Milan at age 18. He launched his line in 1996 while taking a few side jobs at Enrica Massei, Genny, Malo, La Perla, and Borbonese. He took a break from fashion only to return in February 2010 with a hot new collection, N˚21.
What makes Milan special to you? I love Milan. It welcomed me in the warmest way. Here, I began my second life after Naples. I consider this to be my real city. Naples was intrusive, Milan was liberating. Some can call it cold, but to me it’s independent. What is your most memorable art discovery in the city? This is not very original, but I was impressed by the Duomo when I first arrived. It’s so huge and imposing. What are your favorite secret places? I used to have an office on Via Mozart. It’s one of the most beautiful streets in town. It’s quiet and green with small lanes. It’s like a Forte
dei Marmi in the heart of Milan. Also, I like Vicolo dei Lavandai on the Naviglio. Who is your favorite Milanese? Miuccia Prada—she is the authentic Milanese! Favorite place to drink? For aperitifs, the Blanco Bar in Piazzale Lavater, a meeting point for designers. What would you change about Milan, if you could? I’d love a livelier city, especially at night. It is a beautiful city, but a sleeping beauty...where do you go for a drink late at night? And why not open up the beautiful palaces for all to enjoy?
In 1986, Ennio Capasa cofounded Costume National. It was a riotous success, and he was hailed as the Italian answer to the ultra-hot Japanese movement. In 2004, Capasa launched the rocker-chic C’n’C line, which he showed in front of thousands in front of the Piazza del Duomo in 2010. Yes, it rained—but not during the show!
C’n’C Fall 2011
What makes Milan special? The charm of the city is that it has to be discovered, it’s like a mystery. You open a door and discover incredible gardens. The city has an inner personality that is not at all showy. What’s your favorite memory from Milan Fashion Week? Our C’n’C show at Piazza del Duomo. It had rained heavily for hours in Milan, so until the last minute, we didn’t know if we could even have the show. But sud-
Piazza Mercanti
denly, it stopped—for 25 minutes, the exact length of our show. Then it started again immediately after the last exit and rained all night. Miracolo a Milano! Where are your secret hideaways? Piazza Mercanti for its beauty and Parco Sempione. Favorite wine? Negroamaro del Salento.
ENNIO
CAPASA
G e t t y ( 2 ) ; f i r st v i ew ( 2 ) ; s h u t t e r sto c k ( 3 )
The dashing creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo has helmed the venerable Italian fashion house’s menswear line for a decade. In 2009, the popular designer assumed artistic control of the women’s wares as well, to great critical acclaim. Although he’s based in Florence, where Ferragamo’s HQ is located, Giornetti relishes Milan as a home away from home. And how do Milanese ladies look so chic? The secret just might lie in how well they pull off their (two-wheeled) vehicle of choice...
MASSIMILIANO
Grand Hotel et de Milan
What makes Milano special to you? Milan is gorgeous, much more beautiful than you would imagine, but it’s a city you have to discover. The historical Milanese houses, known as ‘casa di ringhiera,’ keep Milan’s old charm alive. I love walking through the streets and admiring the city’s architecture. It’s like an open-air museum full of stunning works by the architects who gave the Italian 20th century its character: Giò Ponti, [Piero] Portaluppi, [Vico] Magistretti, [Emilio] Lancia, Studio BBPR, [Luigi] Caccia Dominioni, to name just a few. What’s the funniest thing that ever happened to you in Milan? One day, I was at dinner at a restaurant, and at the table next to me was this tiny blond girl. I was convinced she was a double of “the” very famous popstar. I noticed the behavior of the waiters and the bodyguards, but only later that night did I I find out that it was actually her! What are your favorite haunts? I love the panettone from Cova, and my favorite boutique is Flair. Culti is a great spa. And when it comes to cocktails, I only drink Roederer champagne. My favorite hotel is the Park Hyatt. What is your most memorable art discovery in the city? What I like most is a small treasure of architecture: Villa Necchi Campiglio, which has kept its original Art Deco character thanks to its genius creator, Piero Portaluppi. What are your favorite secret places in Milan? Ernst Knam in Via Anfossi or Pasticceria Marchesi in Via Santa Maria alla Porta 11a. What’s the best thing that ever happened to you here? I will never forget the applause when I walked out on the runway to take my bow at my first women’s show. I really felt the crowd’s sincere appreciation! Who is your favorite Milanese? Verdi, a Milanese by choice. The days before he died, he was staying at the Grand Hotel et de Milan, and the streets were covered with straw so that the carriages wouldn’t disturb him with their noise. What would you change about Milan Fashion Week, if you could? I would like the pace to be slower, so people can enjoy the shows and events without the stress of moving from one place to another. The agenda is also too busy to give a lot of attention to young talent! What would you change about Milan, if you could? I’d change fashion’s Quadrilatero into a garden parlor—a pedestrian area with flowers and plants. What do you love about Milanese With Bianca Balti women? They have a relaxed style that never renounces practicality. For them, it’s not difficult to be impeccably elegant while riding a bike!
Giuseppe Verdi
Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2012
I T T E N GIOR
FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
c o u R t e S y S a lV a t o R e F e R R a G a M o ; G e t t y ( 5 ) ; B Fa n yc . c o M ; c o u R t e S y G R a n d H ot e l
LINDA
FARGO
Villa Feltrinelli
Bergdorf Goodman’s SVP of the fashion office and store presentation is a front-row icon known for her impeccable style, which, very often, is culled from the Milan runways. Case in point: this Jil Sander suit!
Bergdorf Goodman
What’s the funniest thing that ever happened to you in Milan? The bathrooms! From getting locked in to figuring out how to wash or flush, I feel like I could be on Candid Camera. What is your absolute favorite building in Milan? The 1930s dream house, Villa Necchi! Your absolute favorite places to eat and drink, please. My favorite glass of wine is the Masseto. Favorite breakfast? Café Bianco near the Principe. For dinner, fettuccine with fresh truffles at Da Giacomo. As for burrata? Cantina della Vetra after the Versace show. What is your most memorable art discovery in the city? There’s a hidden oasis of a home, Casa degli Atellani, where Leonardo da Vinci lived when he painted “The Last Supper.” Where are your secret hideaways? If I tell you, it’s no secret... But it is the Sissi Café for the best breakfast paninis. Controvapore for incredible organic steak and the amazing husband-and-wife owners, Guido Gobino for chocolate and Solferino for my favorite pastas! What’s the best thing that ever happened to you in Milan? I’m still waiting... And what would you change about Milan, if you could? The graffiti makes me crazy! If you were given a work-free weekend in Milan, how would you spend it? I would spend it at Villa Feltrinelli on the western shores of Lake Garda. What do you love about Milanese men? Milan has the most handsome, elegant security guys at all the shows!
Villa Necchi
Fa r G o : j o e s c h i l d h o r N / B Fa N yc . c o m
The quiet precision of globalist minimalist Francisco Costa’s sublime Spring 2012 Calvin Klein Collection subtly outshone most of NYFW’s efforts mere days ago. Now, the brand’s women’s wear creative director reveals why he relies on Milan for many life essentials.
O C S I C FRAN
A T S CO
photography giorgio Niro FA S H I O N W E E K D A I L Y. C O M
When did you start spending serious time in Milan? I first went to Italy when I was a student at FIT. I was participating in a contest, and I spent two months of Principe Di the summer working in textile mills Savoia in Como. After that, I went to Milan. I always have a soft spot for the city, because I find it’s not obvious to the eye. It is full of highly intellectual people and incredible architecture. There are so many wonderful modernists. It’s a town that produces perhaps the most in Italy, and it sets a very high standard for the country. It has this Italian spirit, which I absolutely love, and amazing food you can’t forget. The city invites you to discover incredible things, which often aren’t visible, at first, to the eye. What is your favorite discovery? After work on one rainy day, my friend said he wanted to show me something special. We drove 45 minutes outside Milan to the most amazing gallery space, the Hangar Bicocca Foundation, which was the size of an entire city block. Much to my surprise, I walked in to find an installation of Anselm Kiefer’s towers. The work was just magnificent. The rest of the space was devoted to an unbelievable exhibition of light and video by the American artist Anthony McCall. I actually tried to contact him once—he’s about 65 years old and lives in New York, but he never returned my call. His work is as magnificent and grand as Kiefer’s, but in a different way. That’s Milan! Have you ever lived in Milan full time? When I was working with Tom Ford at Gucci, we were based in London, but most of our offices were in Italy, so I lived in the Westin about four days a week. I occasionally left my things there when I went home to London for the weekend. I really felt like I lived there. Milan and I have had a long, incredible relationship. How did your life in Milan different from New York? Well, my life in Milan is very packed and concentrated, and it’s all about work. I am much more focused there than New York. We have a fantastic office that Calvin created years ago, on Via Montenapoleone—it’s an amazing space, very modern, that’s great for the fittings and fabric work. Do people understand how important the Italian fashion industry is to the American scene? I think so. Italians are always the most highly regarded when it comes to making beautiful sportswear. Fashion would be very sad without Ital Italian craftsmanship and knowledge of fabrics wonder and all those wonderful things they do so well.
The Principe lobby
You show your collection in Milan the week after your New York show. Are you still staying at the Westin? No, I am at the Principe now. I tend to be very loyal and repetitive, and it’s a great place. Is Milan an idea-generator? Designers like Miuccia Prada are very much responsible for that— her quirkiness, her sense of color, and her bravery, really. And of course, Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace. How did your love of Italian cuisine develop? I love, love, love, love, love Italian food. It’s not about luxury—it’s about culture. I think the most traditional places are the best, because they use great ingredients and stay true to the concept. It’s a great salad because it’s made of the best leaves! How’s your own Italian? I understand everything, but I could speak much bet-ter when I spent more time there. What are some of your favorite memories of Milan? When I was working at Gucci, there was a tiny little gallery next to the office, but it was never opened. One day, it finally was, and I walked in and really admired the owner’s taste. I was browsing through pictures stacked on the wall, and found one that I had to have. I looked like a bum, and I was trying to speak Italian. I said, I’d love to have this picture. She told me the price, and I said, I can’t afford to pay for it all at once—is it OK if I make 10 payments? She said yes. That’s Milan! I always feel like I fall in love with Milan because of things like that. Do you still frequent the gallery? Oh yes. Now, she knows I work at Calvin, and there is a sense of familiarity, which is so refreshing. For such a big city, Milan has a small city feeling and I love the sensibility. It has a sense of pride and enjoyment because the city is full of things that are actually quite forever, which I can appreciate. There’s a lot to love about the city. It’s fast, but slow; exciting, but mischievous. The architecture can be ugly at times, and beautiful at others. What might seem rather provincial is actually quite sophisticated.
Costa with Calvin Klein campaign star Lara Stone
Lake Como
Calvin Klein Collection Spring 2012
The absolute doyenne of Italian editors, Carla Vanni, has moved from editing the weekly Grazia to overseeing all of its international editions. She summers with Carla Fendi, dines frequently with good friend Giorgio Armani and escapes at least once a month to a treasured apartment in Saint-Germain-des-Prés. But Milan is still her first and greatest love.
Neoreal Canon exposition at Triennale
Why is Milan so unique? For its sky, which is so blue when it’s blue. What is your favorite dish? Risotto al salto with truffles. What’s the city’s most astounding sight? Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper,” obviously. Which places are closest to your heart? Guastalla Gardens, near the University of Milan, and Sormani library. Your favorite Italian saying? I hate sayings! What’s the best thing that’s ever happened to you in Milan? Entering the publishing industry and the world of journalism. Could you imagine living elsewhere? No. But sometimes I need a few getaways. What’s something you can only see and experience in Milan and not anywhere else in the world? Milan is dirty, chaotic, clean, orderly, international, and provincial all in one. What would you change about the city itself? I would start by removing the street furniture. How would you spend an ideal weekend in Milan? Reading newspapers in a bar, such as Cucchi, then a light lunch at Taveggia. After that, a movie at Anteo Teatro and dinner at Torre di Pisa. On Sunday, an exhibition at Triennale, followed by a fully relaxing afternoon. Where’s the best place to be alone? In Sant’Eustorgio, one of the most beautiful squares in Milan. Or in two very small bookshops in Porta Genova, to rediscover some old books. Where do you catch up with friends? Armani Caffè. Which artist has best captured the city’s spirit? Lucio Fontana for breaking with both the past and with mediocrity. And which writer? Carlo Emilio Gadda. How do you best describe the Milanese style? In Milan, everything has to be done in the shortest time. Except for fashion, which is all about the continuous search for style. Which Milanese meal is your passion? Fried eggs with potatoes and artichokes, as prepared at Torre di Pisa.
CARLA
VAnnI
Guastalla Gardens
10 THINGS
we don’t know ABOUT YOU
1. I love to go to the movies. 2. I like to fall asleep listening to classical music. 3. I love traveling. 4. I wake up in the middle of the night to eat chocolate. 5. I often dream of the sound of the sea—I was born in Livorno. 6. I hate onions. 7. I love frantic days, full of activities, as well as Sunday afternoons, when nothing happens. 8. I like to visit flea markets in every city to study the “past lives” of things. 9. I like to wear shirts and pants. I found a “genius” in Mumbai who tailors my shirts and sends them to me. 10. I’m possessive of my friends.
fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
Triennale during Fuorisalone
photography by gilleS benSimon Sg p ; S h u t t e r Sto c k
Maria Bruna Zorzi Beauty Spa
Cucchi
Dominating the front row of every fashion show, Il Giornale’s Daniela Fedi is Italy’s top fashion critic. Never at a loss for words, this tour de force not only knows her style—she also has her pulse firmly on the city she adores. Who is your favorite Milanese? Adriano, at Artioli Optical shop. He is able to convince you to buy so many different pairs of glasses with his Milanese manners: “Sciura!” [‘signora’ in Milanese] he calls me. Where do you dine? I love to eat at Bulgari Hotel Milan in the garden. I also like the oldstyle bars, like Cucchi for cappuccino. My favorite cocktail is a cosmopolitan at Taveggi—they make the best in town. I also frequent Iyo, on via Piero della Francesca 74, a Chinese-Japanese restaurant with reasonable prices, Nuova Arena for pizza, and Trattoria Masuelli San Marco. Surely, you shop? My favorite boutique is Biffi. I also love the concept store WMilano on via Washington 51. It’s a strange place, with a nice selection of vintage clothes, shoes, bags, and old glasses. Where do you go to indulge yourself? Chez André Malbert at Studio Estetico 11 on via Fratelli Ruffini. There is a treatment called Face Remodeling, which has the effect of injections. It costs a fortune, but it’s worth it. My favorite is in Brescia, the Maria Bruna Zorzi Beauty Workshop. She taught me all the tricks to take care of my skin. The body treatments are gorgeous—peels with honey and yellow flour! You spend time relaxing in what feels like an oven, but you leave feeling like a queen.
daniela
10 THINGS Studio Estetico 11
fedi
we don’t know abouT you
1. I’m a sporty person; I was a very good skier. 2. I’m afraid of dolls. 3. I’m a bit superstitious. 4. People don’t know that there are two Kate Mosses; we were born on the same day, January 16. 5. I can cook quite well, but mostly “single” recipes. My boyfriend has three sons, and when I offer them curry prawns, they really long for pastasciutta. 6. I have a boyfriend who I love crazily. I consider myself absurdly lucky to have met him. 7. I have much more discipline than I show. 8. I do not eat anything that has an original shape, like frogs. 9. I studied meditation for 13 years. (Although I never shut up.) 10. I own 767 pairs of shoes, stored in the attic, in separate boxes with captions like “Sergio Rossi mule.” So when my maid needs to put them back in the boxes, she asks me: “What’s the names of these, madam?”
S G P ; G e t t y; S h u t t e r Sto c k
Bulgari High Jewelry ring
San Satiro interior
The Bulgari Hotel’s sleek lobby
As the general manager of the storied Bulgari Hotel Milan, Attilio Marro exists inside a splendid oasis—that just happens to be one of the epicenters of Milanese culture, society, fashion, and commerce! What makes Milano special to you? Milano is an endless discovery, with a lot of hidden secrets and a fascinating maze of small streets and stunning patios in the old parts of town—from the more elegant neighborhoods to the more popular, but not any less fascinating, areas of the Navigli. One of the great advantages of the city, is the variety of accessible areas on the outskirts that are a short driving distance away—from the sea in the summer to the skiing in the winter and all the other options in between. The nearby countryside, the lakes, Piedmont, with some of the world’s greatest wine estates.... Let’s talk food. I will wait in line for a pizza at Sibilla and sit at their communal wooden tables. The homemade French fries at the tiny grill restaurant Osteria la Carbonaia is another favorite. They have great meat, as well. How do you get around town? I ride my motorcycle. Before you hire a driver, if you really want to see the city, I would recommend a nice ride with me—in August when the city is quiet. It’s the best time to discover Milan!
Where do you cocktail? Our guess is the Bulgari... Of course! I like a nice bottle of Gavi spumante from Villa Sparina in our beautiful garden before a great dinner— and obviously, after one of our spa treatments. What’s the best thing that has ever happened to you in Milan? Discovering, by coincidence, Bramante’s amazing trompe l’oeil in San Satiro’s church, one of Milano’s best-kept secrets. And what would you change about Milan, if you could? It would be ideal to be able to bring to Milano more of the top international fairs by leveraging the beautiful new grounds designed by Massimiliano Fuksas and filling some of the quieter periods of the year. If someone gave you a free weekend in Milan, how would you spend it? At the Bulgari! Don’t tell anyone, but if you want some exercise after lunch, you can cycle through the Naviglio Grande. It’s one of the most amazing canals that surrounds the city, built between 1179 and 1209. You can take it almost to Malpensa, and it offers incredible scenery in the nearby town of Abbiategrasso. The canals were used for transporting the marble from Candoglia, north of Lake Maggiore, to Milan during the construction of the Duomo.
ATTILIO
O R R A M The gardens of the Bulgari Hotel Milan fa s h i o n w e e k d a i l y. c o m
co u rt esy b u lg a r i ( 4 ) ; s h u t t e r sto c k
Bulgari Octo Quadri-Retro Chronograph
BRUNELLO
I L L E N CUCI
Inter soccer team
La Scala Hangar Bicocca
The cashmere impresario who has turned Solomeo into the Umbrian town known around the world, Brunello Cucinelli has a unique brand of impeccable luxury. Same goes with his ardent soccer obsession— and adorable love for Milanese women! What makes Milan special to you? It is a cosmopolitan city and one of the most important design centers in Europe. It has an incredible energy and somehow it still maintains the charm and ease of certain provincial areas in Italy, which makes it a great place to work and live. What’s the funniest thing that ever happened to you in Milan? As the avid soccer fan that I am, I try to attend important matches of my favorite team, Inter. I once went to the San Siro soccer stadium to watch an Inter vs. A.C. Milan game and I accidently sat in the section with the Milan fans. It was a funny moment for me and my friends—although we did have to mind our manners during the entire match! Talk us through your favorite places in the city. My favorite place to stay is always the Hotel Principe di Savoia; I always feel completely at home. I also enjoy eating at the restaurant Il Bolognese, for my favorite meal— spaghetti al pomodoro. What is your favorite place to check out great art? La Pinacoteca di Brera, Teatro alla Scala, Museo Poldi Pezzoli, Il Cenacolo di Leonardo, Hangar Bicocca and Casa-Museo Boschi Di Stefano...there are many, I know! Do you have a secret hide-out? The hidden gardens in the courtyards of Viale Montello. Behind concrete façades and majestic wooden doors you can find the most enchanting gardens in some of Milan’s most private residential areas. They are a treat to be discovered. Who are your favorite Milanese of all time? The amazing writers Alessandro Manzoni and Carlo Emilio Gadda, and the director Giorgio Strehler. And what would you change about Milan, if you could? I wish it were closer to my beloved town of Solomeo! How would you spend a free weekend in the city? I would spend it enjoying its cultural beauties, seeing the Milan of the Sforza and Visconti families. I would go to Teatro alla Scala and then visit the Brera Academy of Fine Arts and enjoy a perfect meal at my favorite seafood restaurant in the city, La Risacca Blu. What do you love about Milanese women? Their style, of course—and their warm smiles.
Alessandro Manzoni
F/W 2011
La Risacca Blu
sg p ; g e t t y ( 2 ) ; s h u t t e r sto c k
designers to
watch
Milan’s fashion heritage has produced some of the biggest brands in the business, but the fashion world wonders: Who is the next Giorgio, Miuccia, Donatella, Roberto? A new crop of emerging talent is ripe for the challenge.
cristia no bu rani
After earning a medical degree in Modena, Burani moved to New York and studied fashion design at Parsons. Upon graduation, he returned to Milan and worked first for Versace (Jeans) and then for Blumarine, where he still serves as design director for Blumarine Jeans, Beachwear and Underwear. In 2009, he won the Camera Della Moda’s Fashion Incubator contest; this week, he is showing his eponymous collection for the first time. What’s new this seson? My inspiration always comes from nature, where so many different colors exist in harmony. This collection is all about a dreamy vision of femininity, expressed in innovative treatments of precious fabrics like chiffon and silk organza. What have you planned for the show? I want to break down the barriers between the models and the audience. The clothes will be seen at a very close distance—you can almost touch them.
I am showing in an ancient library in a historical palace in Milan, and I will use natural light to create a very intimate space. Is a fashion show still the best way to present a collection? Shows are not the only ways to present, but they’re great. They’re truly multisensory experiences, and they can’t be replicated in photos or video. I believe new media is very important, so I will reserve many seats for bloggers, who will spread the word about the show and comment on it in real time. Is it difficult to be an emerging designer in Milan? Yes, like in any other city in the world! It may be more difficult in Milan because the big companies do not always seem open to fresh, young talent.
A native of Sardinia, 29-year-old Betterelli studied fashion design in Milan and fine arts and textiles in England. After a six-month stint at Atelier des Arts in Paris, he returned to Italy and created a capsule collection of shoes and bags for Furla. He launched his eponymous collection for Fall 2011, and on September 24th, his fashion show will feature an experimental performance art installation and a video starring model du moment Elisa Sednaoui. What are your aesthetic signatures? I give a lot of importance to volume, cut and construction. My silhouettes are feminine and sensual, but with an avant-garde twist. What have you planned for the show? I am showing at the stunning Sala Pirelli in palazzo Clerici for the second time. There are Baroque frames and frescoes, and the hall is decorated with all sorts of colors, from green to pink. You will see that inspiration in my new collection! So, what is the inspiration behind your Spring collection? For the first time, I have based the collection on a specific decade—the 1950s—but I have reinterpreted the style using new colors, cuts and constructions. Is it difficult to be an emerging designer in Milan? I believe it is hard to be a young designer, period! But it’s not impossible.
silvio better elli
gianluca for m capan etrad nolo amo
francesca
Already a familiar face to the fashion cognoscneti, Capannolo served as creative director at Krizia until 2006. He launched his eponymous collection in 2004, presenting it in both Milan and Paris. In 2009, he was named creative director of Metradamo, a Cernobbio Group Brand, and he has designed women’s capsule collections for the house since Spring 2011. His latest installment will be shown September 22 at 7 p.m. at the Metradamo showroom, via Rugabella 8. What’s new this season? Last season, my woman was a bit “robotic”—for Spring, I went with a more natural style, which is why I used flowers. Why not a show? I think it is too early for my Metradamo collections. Besides, the Milan calendar is already very crowded! What is your process of creating a collection? It begins with a sensation, which is translated, elaborated and written—like a book!—by fabrics and other materials. Why do you show your eponymous collection in Paris? Style-wise, I feel closer to the French masters like Pierre Cardin, André Courreges, Cristobal Balenciaga, and Paco Rabanne. I choose to have a presentation in Paris at a small showroom near Place Vendôme. Buyers can get very close to the clothes, without being distanced by the catwalk.
chicca luald i A member of the internationally-renowned Lualdi family, Chicca Lualdi developed a design sensibility at an early age. She studied economics, branding, and fashion marketing in Italy before moving to New York, where she worked for Aeffe, Itierre, and Etro. In 2009, she won Camera Della Moda’s Fashion Incubator Contest for her collection BeeQueen by Chicca Lualdi. This season, she is showing her eponymous collection for the first time. What have you planned for the show? The location is one of the most beautiful historic buildings in Milan, Palazzo Clerici, behind the Scala theatre. I love the idea of presenting my modern and minimal fashions in such a precious location—I feel honored to have this opportunity. What can people expect from your collection? Modern, minimalist fashion—but nothing too severe or masculine. Who are your favorite designers? Miuccia Prada and Phoebe Philo. Is it difficult to be an emerging designer in Milan? It’s hard, but now, more than ever before, buyers are paying more attention to new brands.
libera dore A bona-fide fashion prodigy, Liberadore earned a degree in womenswear from Central Saint Martins before working at Viktor&Rolf in Amsterdam, Jean Paul Gaultier in Paris, and Brioni womanswear in Milan. At age 26 in 2009, she won the Camera della Moda’s Next Generation Contest. Spring 2012 will be her fourth eponymous collection.
What was your inspiration this season? It’s called “Fish/Fisherman Couture.” I’m using netting created by Swarovski Elements along with large pockets and fish-inspired colors and textures. What did you plan for the show? It’s all about the spectacle, from the volume and proportion of the clothes to the music and accessories, like glasses, that take the theme up a notch. Is a show the best way to present a collection? After working with these masters, I know there is no better way to transmit your message. Is it difficult to be an emerging designer in Milan? In the Italian system, the most difficult thing is to get a chance to show one’s work inside a large company.
silvio betterelli
DoU UoD Patrizia Boscherini and Elisabetta Mambelli originally launched their brand as a children’s line in 2006, but a capsule collection for mothers quickly followed suit. Thanks to a commitment to practicality and an eye for detail, Douuod has developed a cult following, with five boutiques opening in less than five years. Boscherini will be showing the line at Fashion Fair Trade, via Tortona 27, from September 24-26. What’s new this season? We will show the bag collections, our first fragrance collections for women and children, and last but not least, our first wedding capsule collection! Our collections are known for freshness and wearability. But this season, I believe people will think Douuod is growing up. I added some pieces I believe every contemporary woman should have in her closet—my personal interpretation of classics, like an oversized leather jacket. What inspired Spring 2012? Inspiration comes from different places, when everyday things like films and travels get my attention. I also pay a lot of attention to requests from our customers. This season, I took inspiration from the 1970s for the main print of the collection, but I also stole a lot of colorful polka dots from the 1950s! Is it difficult to be an emerging designer in Milan? It isn’t easy, but Milan needs to be a symbol of what’s coming next in fashion.
“It’s a splendid language with so many shades and sounds. Also, it’s better not to depend entirely on your limo driver…” —Giorgio Guidotti
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