Hunting, 2018 by Moscow-Pullman Daily News

A special publication of OUTDOORS SECTION | FRIDAY, SEPT. 14, 2018

CHASING BULLS AND BUCKS ROBERT MILLAGE PHOTOGRAPH

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SCIENTISTS ON LOWER-TIER TRAIL OF ELK TARGETS ON HOOF DISEASE THE DOCKET  PAGE 7

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S U P P L E M E N T T O T H E M O S C O W - P U L L M A N D A I LY N E W S

HOW TO TAME THAT WILD GAME TASTE  PAGE 10

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

ID AHO OUT LO O K

Mild winter, wet spring help keep herds healthy Strong survival rates mean it’s a ‘good time to be an elk hunter in the state of Idaho’ By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

Idaho’s Clearwater Region experienced a start, stop and start again winter this past year, with alternating periods of heavy snow and quite mild weather. The odd weather with its early and late periods of cold and snow appears

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hours, Koehler said. “We haven’t had any maStatewide the department jor events that would lead Prospectus: says that elk and whitetail you to believe we had any ELK populations are at near-redramatic population changcord levels. Last hunting es,” said Dave Koehler, a season, elk harvest ranked as wildlife biologist for the dethe sixth highest ever in the partment at Lewiston. “We state. Hunters took 22,751 didn’t have an exceptionaly elk, with an average success tough winter, and we haven’t rate of more than 24 percent. had any disease outbreaks — “If you are an elk hunter no information that would be Idaho’s in the state of Idaho, you are a big red flag.” statewide elk still doing well. It’s a good Following the winter, population is time be an elk hunter in the Koehler said the cool and in good shape, wet spring produced healthy state of Idaho,” said Daryl but numbers growth of food like grasses Meints, the department’s continue to be and brush that deer and elk statewide deer and elk coordepressed in feed on. dinator at Boise. “We had a lot of moisture However, where huntbackcountry for quite a ways into the sumers are having success has units like mer, and obviously that is changed over time. Some the Lolo and good for habitat conditions.” places such as the Clearwater Selway elkPut it all together, and the Region’s Lolo and Selway elk hunting zones. region’s deer and elk populazones and central Idaho wiltions are poised to offer good derness areas that once boasthunting this fall. That will likely hinge, ed some of the best elk hunting in the however, on weather during the season country no longer do. Habitat changes that has already begun and will prog- in the backcountry and the recovery of ress well into the winter season. Hot gray wolves have bedeviled elk herds. and dry conditions can make it tough Even so, Meints said people who hunt on hunters. The dry weather makes the the backcountry still tend to do pretty forests and grasslands more crunchy, well based on harvest statistics. which in turn makes it more difficult Meints said overall, Idaho’s whitefor hunters to move with stealth. It can tail deer and elk populations are still also cause deer and elk to seek cool areas and to be inactive during daylight >> See HERDS, page 3

not have had led to significant winterkill based on monitoring of deer and elk in the region that have been fitted with radio collars. According to big-game hunting season outlook compiled by biologists with the Idaho Department Fish and Game, about 70 percent of the radio-collared calves in the region survived the winter. Cow survival was registered at about 97 percent, and collared whitetail deer survived at about 90 percent. Those numbers are in line with survival rates recorded over the past several years.

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OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

HERDS

>> Continued from PAGE 2

riding high coming off of a streak of five mild winters prior to the harsh conditions of 2016-17. “That is what Mother Nature provided us,” he said. “We ride her coattails, and we were blessed with the fact that we had five good winters in a row where we had normal or above-normal fawn surival.” However, he said the cold and heavy snow two winter’s ago hit young animals hard in many areas of the state, especially mule deer in southern and eastern Idaho. “Mother Nature brought us back to reality,” he said. He said the low surival recorded that winter will be felt for several years to come. There will still be lots of deer and elk from the five good winters, and there should be healthy populations of yearling animals based on good conditions last winter. But this fall hunters will see fewer mule deer, in particular, since so many born in 2017 didn’t survive that winter. “We know there is going to be a gap in the age strucure,” he said. “Those deer, if they had survived the winter of 2017, would have been 2½ years old. Well, they are not there.”

A mule deer buck keeps tabs on does along the Salmon River.

Robert Millage Photography

New regs aimed at stifling disease, curtailing trespassing By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

Idaho hunters have some important new laws and regulations to contend with this season, including restrictions designed to keep wildlife disease at bay, a shortened season in one of the state’s most popular whitetail deer hunting units and stiffer penalties for trespass. Here is a rundown of the changes:

CHRONIC WASTING DISEASE This summer, Idaho Fish and Game Commissioner Dan Blanco of Moscow led a drive to adopt regulations aimed at preventing the disease, often referred to by its acronym CWD, from infecting the state’s deer and elk herds. The new rules and measures, many of which have already taken effect, include the following:

Prospectus: DEER Populations of whitetail and mule deer in the Clearwater Region should offer good opportunity for hunters. Last winter wasn’t unduly stressful but the previous winter may have led to poor survival in some areas. The previous five winters, however, were mild and boosted survival. zz A ban on the import into Idaho of the carcass or any part of a wild deer, elk, or moose from another state, province of Canada, or country with any documented case of CWD. Exceptions to the rule include meat that is cut and wrapped, quartered or deboned meat that does not include brain or spinal tissue, edible organs that do not include brains, hides without heads, upper canine teeth, finished taxidermy, dried antlers, or cleaned and dried skulls or skull caps. zz A ban on the use of natural deer, elk, or moose, urine for hunting big game.

zz Integration of the Idaho Department of Fish and Game’s chronic wasting disease risk strategy as a consideration and criteria into winter feeding decisions. The rule is pending legislative approval. zz Restricting the public from winter feeding of deer and elk in designated CWD management zones in the event that CWD is discovered in Idaho. This rule is pending legislative approval. zz A ban on the importation of live mule deer, whitetail deer and moose into the state with the exception of allowing existing rehabilitation facili-

ties to do so with an approved related to hunting, fishing or permit. The rule is pending trapping carries an automatic one-year revocation of Idaho legislative approval. Fish and Game licenses. NEW TRESPASS LAW Criminal trespass with Idaho legislators revamped damages also includes tiered the state’s trespass laws into a fines and jail time for multisingle statute that raises the ple offenses, starting with up penalties for being on private to six months in jail and fines property without permission of $1,500 to $3,000. It would and relaxes landowner re- grow to a felony charge for a sponsibility to post their prop- third offense, with one to five erty if they wish to prosecute years in prison and fines of trespassers. It makes the first $15,000 to $50,000. offense for criminal trespassThe bill includes exceping an infraction with a $300 tions for emergency respondfine if the trespasser does no ers and people who knock on damage and leaves the prop- doors, such as missionaries, erty when requested. The for- Girl Scouts selling cookies, mer fine was just $50. meter readers, those with Criminal trespass now car- permission, lease holders or a ries a fine of $500 to $1,000 and customer entering a store. up to six months in jail; a second It also allows landowners offense carries a fine of $1,500 to bring civil cases against to $3,000. A third offense would people they charge with trescarry a fine of $5,000 to $10,000 passing and lets them make a and up to a year in jail. A conviction of criminal trespassing >> See NEW, page 4

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

NEW

>> Continued from PAGE 3

Hunting units in north central Idaho SHOSHONE Potlatch Deary

Elk River case for reasonable legal and Moscow investigative costs. In turn, accused trespassers who are Powell Pierce found innocent can seek to Orofino recoup legal fees if they can Lewiston prove the charges were without merit. Landowners in Idaho used Kooskia Lowell Winchester to have to mark their property with no trespassing signs or blocks of orange paint at a distance of every 660 feet. That is no longer so. According to Grangeville Elk City the new law, landowners who White Bird want to keep trespassers out and reserve the right for possible prosecution or civil action must conspicuously post their uncultivated property that adjoins public land with Riggins signs or orange paint at the corners of fence lines, at navigable streams, roads, gates and right of ways in such a manner that a “reasonable person would be put on notice and they fear they could be blatant trespass but by simply that it is private land.” Many people have said the cited by law enforcement or making a mistake and wannew law is more confusing face civil prosecution not for dering across an unmarked

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F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8 property line. But Greg Wooten, chief of the department’s enforcement bureau, said the spirit of the law is unchanged. “Trespass laws have changed, but the core philosophies have not,” he said. “It’s still the sportsman’s responsibility to know when they’re on private property and obtain permission to be there.” Several tools exist to assist hunters and others in knowing where private property adjoins public ground. They include, GPS, software (some of which also shows private land ownership) and smartphone apps.

it once did. They reasoned that ending the season in the middle of the rut, when amorous bucks are more prone to be active in the middle of the day and more likely to be taken by hunters, will allow more of them to survive. Another rule passed by the commission means hunters will no longer be able to use extra non-resident deer tags in the unit. They will still be able to use their first tags there and then use the second tag in another unit. Biologists are working on new whitetail and mule deer management plans that are expected to be released next SHORTER WHITETAIL year. To help them craft those SEASON IN UNIT 10A documents they recently Fish and Game commis- conducted surveys on the sioners altered the hunting desires of whitetail and mule season in the unit to exclude deer hunters in the state. The about half of the rut. White- results of those surveys are tail hunting will end in the expected to be released in the unit on Nov. 20 this year in- next few weeks, said Daryl stead of the customary Dec. Meints, the department’s deer 1. The move was championed and elk harvest coordinator at by members of Northern Ida- Boise. ho Whitetails Forever. Group Barker may be contacted members lobbied the commission and said the unit no at ebarker@lmtribune.com or longer has the same number at (208) 848-2273. Follow him of mature whitetail bucks that on Twitter @ezebarker.

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OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

W AS HINGT O N O UT LO O K

Bulls, bucks still at a premium While calf and fawn survival rates are up, one benign winter does not an ungulate recovery make By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

Big game populations in Washington’s District 3 benefited from a return to southeastern Washington’s normally mild conditions last winter. That led to good rates of survival for elk calves and deer fawns, which will be available for hunters to pursue this fall. However, one mild year is insufficient time for the populations to fully rebound from losses associated with the harsh winter of 201617. According to the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife’s 2018 hunting prospect report for District 3, hunters will continue to experience challenges launched by bad weather that year. In the spring of 2017, aerial surveys tallied an elk population estimate of 4,396. That is lower than the five-year average of 5,360 and the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife’s elk population objective of 5,500. The surveys are conducted every other year so did not happen this past spring. Biologists did however conduct ground surveys to get an idea of the age and sex structure of the herds in southeastern Washington. Those results showed 24.6 calves per 100 cows, and 12.6 bulls per 100 cows. The calf-to-cow ratio is an improvement over the 17.8 calves per 100 cows recorded in 2017, but remains below the five-year average of about 30 calves per 100 cows. The bull-to-cow ratio of 12.6 is well below the objective of 22:100. However, district biologist Paul Wik and assis-

Tribune/Eric Barker

A herd of elk grazes on the Chief Joseph Wildlife Area near Joseph Creek in Asotin County. tant wildlife biologist Mark Vekasy noted in their annual hunting prospect report that ground surveys often underestimate the number of bulls because the older animals are more wary and difficult to see from the ground. Despite the improvement in calf numbers, the biologists expect elk hunters may have a tougher time finding both spike and branch antlered bulls this fall. That is because there are fewer bulls in the overall population and because pregnancy rates were likely lower than average last year due to the decline in bull numbers in 2017.

“Although calf recruitment increased in 2018 over 2017 numbers, recruitment was still below average, and consequently populations available for harvest are expected to be lower than years prior to the 16-17 winter,” they wrote in the report. “We do expect to see a slight improvement over 2017 harvest, but a lower than average number of spike bulls is likely to continue into the 2018 hunting season.”

DEER Wik and Vekasy wrote that deer populations in the region

are stable, but just like elk, mule deer and whitetails suffered during the harsh winter of 2016-17, particularly along the Grande Ronde River. That reduction was shown in lower-than-average harvest in the fall of 2017. “Although the winter of 2017-18 was relatively mild, we expect the effect of the previous winter to carry over into the 2018 hunting season, due to poor fawn survival and recruitment. We don’t expect harvest metrics to rebound

>> See ODDS, page 6

Prospectus: DEER Deer hunters will also continue to feel the effects of poor fawn survival during the winter of 2016-17, especially along the Grande Ronde River. However, other deer populations, both whitetail and mule deer, appear to be stable.

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8

Prospectus: ELK Overwinter survival improved last year, but hunters are likely to encounter fewer spike and young branch-antler bulls because of winter kill during the winter of 2016-17.

ODDS

>> Continued from PAGE 5 towards long-term averages until the 2019 season.” They said that a one-two punch of drought in 2015 and the harsh winter in 2016-17 has led to a decrease in the number of three-point and better bucks in the population. In addition, a recent scaling back of the number of farm fields enrolled in the federal Conservation Reserve Program could lead to a future with lower mule deer numbers.

PHEASANTS AND UPLAND BIRDS Tribune/Eric Barker

A mule deer doe follows a young buck on the Chief Joseph Wildlife Area in Asotin County.

>>More online More detailed information is available in the District 3 Hunting Prospects report at https://wdfw.wa.gov/hunting/ prospects/2018/district03.pdf. tions have been stable in their region for several years. This spring generally saw conditions that were not unfavorable to successful hatches and broods. However, the good spring conditions were followed by a hot and dry summer. Nonetheless they predict pheasant hunting is likely to be similar to what hunters have experienced over the last several years.

Barker may be contacted

Wik and Vekasy wrote that at ebarker@lmtribune.com or pheasant and quail popula- at (208) 848-2273. Follow him

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OUTDOORS / H UNTING 2018

Scientists aim to contain outbreak Elk hoof disease is spreading eastward, and Washington state and WSU biologists are hot on the case

ABOVE: Kristin Mansfield (sitting) with the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife and Susan Hahn of the WSU Diagnostic Medicine Center examine elk hooves in an effort to undertand elk hoof disease in western Washington.

By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

Margaret Wild describes the meticulous research required of scientists and game managers to unravel the cause of a new wildlife disease as similar to the work of detectives sifting through a complicated crime scene. Each piece of evidence could be a critical bit of information that leads to a conviction. It could also be a confounding factor unrelated to the quest. It takes time, diligence and perseverance before an answer is found. In this case the would-be crime is the sudden emergence of elk hoof disease in some western Washington elk herds. The disease first popped up 2008 and is expanding its geographic scope. It was detected on the east side of the Cascade Mountains for the first time last spring in western Klickitat County near Trout Lake. It causes sores and lesions on the feet of elk, making them lame and often leading to death. Wild was hired by Washington State University’s Department of Veterinary Microbiology and Pathology at the College of Veterinary Medicine in Pullman to lead an effort there to study the disease and hopefully come up with, if not a cure, steps wildlife managers can take to mitigate its effects. Her position was made possible by funding from the Washington Legislature. Wild previously served as the national wildlife health lead and supervisor for the Wildlife Health Branch of the National Park Service at Fort Collins, Colo. She has vast experience working on Chronic Wasting Disease that infects

Henry Moore/WSU

BELOW LEFT: Wildlife researcher Margaret Wild. BELOW RIGHT: A cow elk in western Washington holds its leg up as it feeds. The animal is one of many in the region afflicted with elk hoof disease. WDFW

deer herds in the Midwest and was recently discovered in Montana. She and others at WSU are working with counterparts at the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife. Even before she started, researchers uncovered a key trigger of the disease. They analyzed bacteria sampled from the hooves of infected elk and isolated a specific family — treponeme —

that appears to be associated with the ailment. The disease, which has at times wrongly been called elk hoof rot disease, is now known as treponeme-associated hoof disease. Wild began her new job last month and is eager to learn more about how elk hoof disease is spread and what types of environments it flourishes in. “There is likely something

that is setting these elk up to have the infection,” she said. “We don’t know what that is right now.” For example, the researchers want to know if there are other factors besides the bacteria that make elk susceptible. “It could be things that alter where the animals live or how much contact they have with other elk or how their immune system works or what

the composition of microbacteria in the soil is,” Wild said. “Those are things we need to take a look at.” Thus far, researchers believe the moist soil conditions found on the west side of the state play an important role in the ability of the disease to quickly spread. However, they can’t rule out the possibility that it could one day infect elk in the much more dry regions of the state. The area in which it was found on the east side of the Cascades is far wetter than the environment of, say, the Blue Mountains in the state’s far southeastern corner. “It gets quite a bit of precipitation, lots of snow,” said Kyle Garrison, elk hoof disease coordinator for the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife of the Trout Lake area. “I think we can make the hypothesis it’s going to be worse in wetter areas, but we don’t know that for certain yet. That is why it’s important to look at the whole picture to figure out which environmental factors are important,

>> See OUTBREAK, page 8

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8

OUTBREAK >> Continued from PAGE 7 what density of elk is important,” Wild said. “I’m hopeful it’s going to be harder for the disease to take hold in areas that are not as wet, but I don’t think we should completely rely on that not being the case without investigating.” Wild hopes to start working with captive elk as part of the research. She doesn’t yet know where that might take place. Both she and Garrison also want to find herds that have had a few elk infected with the disease but where it has not yet become rampant. “What are the important characteristics of those sites where the disease would occur at a lower prevalence versus where we see outbreaks,” she said. “Is there anything we can learn in that location that can help us learn what factors are important in the development of the disease?” Garrison said the depart-

Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife

An elk hoof is shown in the late stages of elk hoof disease. ment is monitoring the herds where the disease is common and taking a more active role in herds where it is new. For example, he said afflicted elk in the Trout Lake area are

being removed by the department in an effort to stop its spread. But in the Mount St. Helens area where it is common in herds, culling infected animals is not an option with-

out seriously affecting population numbers. He said hunters and others who recreate outdoors can help monitor the disease by reporting any elk they see

that are limping. Hunters who kill elk with deformed hooves or any hoof abnormalities are being asked to report them to the department. Those who see something suspicious can submit a report online at https://wdfw. wa.gov/conservation/health/ hoof_disease/ or contact Garrison at Kyle.Garrison@ dfw.wa.gov. Garrison said limping doesn’t necessarily mean an elk has the disease. “When you are in southwest Washington and see a limping elk and multiple limping elk, you can probably be pretty confident it is probably treponeme-associated hoof disease. But if it’s in eastern Washington and you see one limping elk in a group of elk, that is unlikely to be treponeme-associated hoof disease. It could be a broken leg.” he said. “Elk lead tough lives, and things happen to their legs and hooves quite often.” The department is asking successful elk hunters to leave elk hooves in the field to prevent against transmitting the disease to other areas.

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OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

MINOR-LEAGUE TARGETS

Rabbits, snipe, crow and red squirrels are among the lower tier of hunting quarry By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

Deer and elk tend to grab most of the attention when it comes to hunting in Idaho and Washington. Pheasants, partridge, ducks and geese also get their due. But there are a host of other species available to hunters that get little attention. They include cottontail rabbits and snowshoe hares, obscure birds like snipe (yes snipe hunting is real), coots, also known as mud hens, American crow and — new to Idaho hunters — red squirrel. Not many people hunt rabbits and hares, but on this list of obscure game animals they are probably the most popular. Michael Herr of Clarkston relishes rabbit hunting. Herr mostly waits until winter, when the seasons on upland birds like chukar and gray partridge have closed, but he occasionally takes a rabbit in the fall. For those late winter cottontail hunts, he’s worked with his German wirehaired pointer Molly to make the hunts both safe and efficient. Most bird dogs instinctively are interested in rabbits, but most hunters discourage their canine hunting buddies from pursuing them. Rabbits can distract dogs during hunts for pheasants and other upland birds. It can also be dicey to shoot rabbits that, unlike birds, stay on the ground, exposing a dog that breaks on a running rabbit or hare to getting shot. Herr takes this into consideration and is choosy about the shots he is willing to make on rabbits. He’s also trained Molly to walk adjacent to him during rabbit hunts so he has a clear shooting lane in front of him. “It’s something to do when

ABOVE: A Wilson’s snipe. The small, fast shore bird makes for a challenging target. U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service

LEFT: A red squirrel. Idaho game officials have opened a season on the animals this year, saying they offer hunters, particulary young ones, more opportunities. Idaho Department of Fish and Game

spokesman at the Idaho Department of Fish and Game at Boise, said as long as the population of any particular animal can withstand hunting, game managers tend to favor hunting seasons even if the interest from hunters is minimal. “If there is a hunting opportunity granted to us under federal rules, we tend to take advantage of it,” Phillips said. That was the thinking earlier this year, when the Idaho Fish and Game Commission voted to have a season on red squirrels. Also known as pine squirrels, the animals are abundant in the forested areas of Idaho. They often frustrate hunters waiting at a promising spot for a deer or elk to appear by sitting in a nearby tree and chattering and screeching at them. Corkill championed the red squirrel season after receiving a request from a constituent who believed a squirrell season would offer good opportunities to young hunters. “What we are doing here in Idaho is not unusual,” Corkill said. “It increases opportunity for hunters, especially kids.” Idaho Fish and Game Commissioner Dan Blanco of Moscow said tundra swans could be added to the list of huntable species in the state. Blanco said the department is “taking a good hard look at it.” “Adjoining states are hunting them, and there is really no reason not to based on what our biologists are telling us,” he said. If a season is eventually approved, tundra swan hunting would likely be restricted to parts of the Panhandle Region, and hunters would have to apply for a permit. A season would be timed to make sure there is no chance hunters might mistakenly take a less abundant trumpeter swan.

some countries. Idaho Fish and Game Commissioner Brad Corkill of Cataldo said snipe are best hunted around the edges of marshes or other wetlands. Corkill hasn’t hunted them since he was a young man but said the small, fast everything else is closed Pygmy rabbits are closed to birds are a challenging target. “That is where the word down,” he said. “We will hunt hunting in both Idaho and sniper came from,” he said, the flats along the Snake Riv- Washington. er and hunt brier patches. Herr has put a little effort explaining that in Britain peoYou have to be really careful into snipe hunting as well ple who were skilled enough Barker may be contacted not to shoot your dog.” but hasn’t had any luck. It’s with a shotgun to bag snipe at ebarker@lmtribune.com or Rabbits, if you are wonder- unclear how many hunters were called snipers. ing, make excellent table fare. pursue the shorebirds. But Both states have seasons at (208) 848-2273. Follow him (see cooking story, next page) they are popular quarry in on crow. Roger Phillips, a on Twitter @ezebarker.

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

TAMING THAT WILD GAME

TASTE Three local hunters share the recipes that turn their hunting hauls into culinary creations Wild game cooking is enjoying a his love of rabbit and a handful of his renaissance on the internet and social favorite ways to prepare it, including media as many hunters emphasize the classic hasenpfeffer dish. Finally, I putting trophy-quality meals on their share my use of goose breasts instead tables over hanging antlers and heads of beef chuck roast in the classic boeuf on their walls. bourguignon dish, or in this case goose Often mixed with advocacy for bourguignon. public lands, adherents to the moveThe basics of all these recipes can be ment relish showing off their culinary found in cookbooks or on the internet, creations on Twitter, Facebook and most of the adaptation and Instagram posts. amounts to using wild game For this year’s recipe section instead of the called-for doof the Tribune’s annual Huntmestic animal meat. Herr and ing Edition, we reached out to the Crawfords also cite wild three local hunters who believe game cookbook authors and strongly that hunting is first advocates such as Hank Shaw and foremost a way to obtain of honest-food.net and Steven healthy, lean meat that can be Rinella of themeateater.com transformed into gourmet-qualas important influences. Both ity meals that would make fourmen have wide social media star chefs proud. COMMENTARY followings. If there is a theme here, it’s taking classic recipes and OSSO BUCCO applying them to wild game. This dish favored by Eric Eric Crawford, an investigator Crawford requires a healthy for the Idaho Department of Fish dose of planning, starting with and Game who lives at Moscow, butchering the animal — be it writes about osso bucco, a slowelk, deer, moose or antelope — cooked dish that turns the tough in a specific way. and stringy shank meat of deer and elk “You are using the shanks,” Crawinto fall-apart tender morsels. ford said. “And you are cutting those in His brother Ethan Crawford, a cross sections. So you are leaving it on fisheries biologist for the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife, writes the bone and cutting right through the bone.” about his adaptation of beef Wellington to venison cuts. Michael Herr, a “I’ve used anything from a hack saw, fisheries biologist for the Washington I’ve used a true meat saw or bone saw Department of Fish and Wildlife shares and I’ve actually used a Sawzall as

Eric Barker

Eric Crawford/Ethan Crawford

TOP AND ABOVE RIGHT: Ethan Crawford used a hunk of backstrap from a deer to create this visually stunning Venison Wellington. ABOVE LEFT: Elk shanks prepped for osso bucco by Eric Crawford. he’s also taken bits and pieces of recipes from people like Gordon Ramsey and other well-known chefs. Last Christmas, Crawford used a hunk of backstrap from a deer to create a visually stunning venison Wellington. Eric Crawford The dish consists of a tender piece of meat encased in layers of cured meat, Whitetail shanks prepped for osso bucco. This recipe is a great way to use shank meet from deer, elk and other ungulates. a mushroom paste known as a duxelle and dough such as puff pastry. At bear camp this spring, Crawwell,” he said. “It’s easier if (the meat) ing of flour, browns it on all sides in VENISON WELLINGTON “It’s a big chunk of loin, or backstrap, is still partially frozen.” a Dutch oven and sets it aside. Next ford surprised some friends from the and then you salt and pepper it and rub While butchering, he slices the shank Crawford sautes a mix of carrots, onEthan Crawford likes to thumb Midwest when he started to prepare elk mustard on it. Coat that with prosciutto meat and bone into discs between 1½ to ions and other root vegetables in butter shanks. through cookbooks or to peruse the or some other thinly sliced cured meat, 3 inches thick. Both the front and rear before returning the shanks to the pan internet to come up with dishes he “They had no idea what was going and you have a mushroom puree — it’s legs below the knee can be used. and adding stock (beef or vegetable) believes will go well with wild game as on. I busted out the shanks, and they finely minced shallots and mushrooms “It’s a really good alternative for crushed tomatoes, tomato paste and the centerpiece. said ‘we’re not going to eat that are we?’ and butter.” using that shank portion of the animal,” seasoning with salt and pepper and “I just kind of try to find a couple of By the end they said ‘I’m not getting rid recipes and take the parts and put them Crawford prefers wild morels for the he said. “A lot of people look at it and other herbs. The dish is covered and of a shank ever again.” mushrooms. see all that tendon and silver skin and cooked in a 300-degree oven for 3 to 5 all together,” Crawford said. For more precise instructions, Craw“You pack that up and wrap the say ‘I don’t know what to do with this, hours. He recommends Danielle Prewett ford recommends following recipes by whole thing in pastry dough and bake I’m chucking it.’” “It really breaks everything down,” from www.wildandwhole.com and a it,” he said. “It’s visually pretty appealShaw or Rinella. He seasons the meat with a dustcontributor to themeateater.com. But he said.

ing when you get it all done, but it takes some time.”

RABID FOR RABBIT Herr became interested in cooking wild game as a youngster. His parents didn’t hunt, but he was introduced to it by his grandfather. His mother would cook the pheasants he brought home. They were good, but he yearned for something better. When he started deer hunting, he compiled several “edible” venison recipes but still felt there was more he could be doing with the meat. “There is a reason people order these things in fine restaurants for a lot of money,” he thought. “There has got to be a way make these amazing dishes.” When he married, his wife asked him why he would bother to kill something if

>> See TASTE, page 12

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8

TASTES

>> Continued from PAGE 11

it wasn’t going to make fine table fare. “I would have argued that when I was younger, but it’s a very good philosophy,” he said. “There has to be something besides just exercise and the sport of it.” Like the Crawfords, Herr became a fan of people such as Shaw and Rinella and learned techniques such as reverse searing, braising and velveting. When he moved to Lewiston, a friend introduced Michael Herr, Sade Barker him to rabbit hunting. It’s a ABOVE: Rabbit pot pie is one of Michael Herr’s go-to dishes . game animal many hunters RIGHT: Goose bourguignon with morel mushrooms. overlook, even though they are plentiful and limits are liberal. His friend served game but not what type. called-for chuck buttermilk fried rabbit to Herr and “It’s not something people would roast with goose his wife. She was a fan and told him ever guess in 100 years,” he said. breasts. he should start hunting rabbits. Those interested in trying can folIt’s an involved He did and pursued recipes as low Shaw’s recipe at honest-food.net. recipe of which well. His go-to rabbit dishes includes many versions rabbit pot pie and the dish that got GOOSE BURGUNDY can be found in him hooked, buttermilk fried rabbit. cookbooks and I’m a waterfowl hunter and love One of his favorites is hasenpfeffer on the internet. nothing more than a simply sauted — or peppered hare — another old The most famous duck breast with the fatty skin seared classic recipe. of course is the to a crisp and the meat cooked to a The rabbit or hare is skinned, gutone by the late nice pink medium rare. It’s wonderted, cut into quarters and marinated Julia Child in her ful. You would think the same techfor up to four days in a brine of wine, classic cookbook nique would work for goose breasts, vinegar, rosemary, juniper berries, “Mastering the but it doesn’t always. The heftier peppercorns, cinnamon sticks and breasts of an older, big Canada geese Art of French other herbs and spices. Cooking.” Boiled are trickier to cook and can end up When ready to cook, the marinade tough and dry if you’re not careful. down, it’s essentially a stew with caris reserved and used to make a sauce. rots, onions, bacon and herbs, cooked So when I’m lucky enough to bag The pieces of rabbit are browned in a a goose, I try to find recipes that slowly in a mix of beef stock and skillet with butter and then cooked in involve a slow cook at low temperaBurgundy. It is served with sauted the marinade for 3 hours in a 300-de- tures to give the muscular meat time mushrooms and pearl onions. gree oven. to break down. The last few years I’ve The meat turns out dark and tender He likes to serve the dish to dinner had great success using beef Burwith a hearty and rich broth. I like guests who know they are eating wild gundy recipes and swapping out the to spoon the dish onto a bed of egg noodles. I’ve used morel mushrooms with this dish and am eager to try chanterelles. Last year while whitetail hunting, I stumbled upon some wild Check the regulations when you chanterelles and took a few pounds

head out in the field and call our office with questions [208] 799-5010 or check idfg.idaho.gov/. Call the CAP hotline 24 hours a day to report violations 1-800-632-5999 and a reminder to ask for permission before crossing or hunting private land.

home. If I’m lucky, I’ll harvest some more this fall. While I like to use goose, I’m certain chunks of deer or elk roast would adapt well to the recipe. Again, for more-detailed instructions I recommend downloading a recipe from the internet or a cookbook. In addition to Child’s technique, I’ve used a Martha Stewart recipe for guidance.

Barker may be contacted at ebarker@ lmtribune.com or at (208) 848-2273. Follow him on Twitter @ezebarker.

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OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

U P LA ND GA M E BI R DS

Chock full of chukars? Informal field reports indicate the game bird species may be abundant on region’s river canyon slopes By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

Chukars could be the saving grace of Idaho’s upland bird-hunting season this fall. But that is an educated guess. Anecdotal information collected from the Idaho Department of Fish and Game indicates the member of the partridge family that lives on the steep slopes of river canyons may have had good nesting success this spring. “We had some great feedback from our field staff and from the public,” said Jana Ashling, regional wildlife biologist for the Idaho Department of Fish and Game at Lewiston. “On the Salmon River and the Snake River there has been lots of birds seen, and that is good.” Ashling did offer a word of caution though. The collection of reports is not a scientific survey, and dry hot weather that was present much of the summer tends to draw chukars to the shorelines of rivers. That can make it appear there are more birds than there really are. “Take it as it is,” she said. “You have to be careful interpreting it.” Reliable or not, it is about the only good news in the department’s annual survey of upland game bird populations. Biologists drive predetermined routes around dawn in the late summer each year and count the number of pheasants, quail, gray partridge and other game birds they see. The pheasant counts were

up compared to last year, but just below the 10-year average. Biologist counted 146 quail this year compared to 83 last year. The 10-year average is about 152. Larry Moore/BLM Ashling said another collection of anecdotal LEFT: A pheasant rooster reports on forest grouse struts in wheat stubble. indicates they followed Robert Millage photography similar trends as other upland birds numbers. “Overall what we are was pretty wet early on, hearing is probably the and that can create some broods are down,” she said. good habitat but, depend“People are seeing birds but ing on when it is, it can be just singles or just a couple, bad for brood survival.” which would indicate the Biologists counted 59 broods didn’t do well.” gray partridge, also known as Hungarian partridge. Barker may be contacted That compares to 92 last at ebarker@lmtribune.com or year and a 10-year avat (208) 848-2273. Follow him erage of about 100. on Twitter @ezebarker. Quail numbers were

ABOVE: Chukar numbers in Hells Canyon and along the Salmon River appear to be healthy this fall, according to anecdotal reports.

the lowest observed since 2013. That year, biologists counted 10 pheasants. This year the tally was 13, and biologists didn’t observe any broods — groups of pheasant chicks. Last year they counted 69 adult pheasants and 11 broods. The 10-year

average is about 40 pheasants and five broods. It’s a guessing game to try to figure out why the counts may have been so low. “We didn’t have too tough of a winter, but we had more normal temperatures this spring,” Ashling said. “It

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OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

Duck populations down but should provide ample targets By ERIC BARKER OF THE TRIBUNE

lands scattered across prairies and boreal forests is a key factor in the succes of breeding ducks. “This year’s breeding population decline is a reminder of the need to sustain the capacity of breeding habitats, particularly in the prairies as we go through natural variation in wetland conditions,” said Moorman. “Waterfowl populations are adapted well to short-term swings in habitat conditions, but we must continue to guard against the long-term loss of prairie breeding habitat.” Idaho’s duck and goose season opens Oct. 13 and runs through Jan. 25 in Area 1, which encompases most of the state with the exclusion of Valley County and most of eastern Idaho that are in Area 2. Area 2 opens Oct. 6. and runs through Jan. 18. Goose season in Area 3, which includes Bear Lake and most of Caribou County and applies only to geese, opened Sept. 1 and closes Saturday. A second season in Area 3 opens Oct. 6 and runs through Jan. 3. Washington will hold a youth-only season Sept. 29 and 30 in eastern Washington, and the regular season will open Oct. 13 and run through Oct. 31. The season will resume on Nov. 3 and run through Jan. 27.

Waterfowlers will see fewer ducks across North America this fall but should still enjoy historically good hunting, according to a federal population survey promoted by Ducks Unlimited. The conservation organization recently boiled down the lengthy U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service report “2018 Trends in Duck Breeding Populations,” which indicates duck numbers remain high despite a 13 percent drop from a year ago. The federal agency estimated an overall population of 41.2 million breeding ducks which is 17 percent higher than the long-term average. The estimate was compiled based on surveys conducted by biologists from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the Canadian Wildife Service. “The dip in the population for prairie-breeding puddle ducks is not unexpected and by no means unprecedented given that conditions on the prairies this spring were drier than last year,” said Ducks Unlimited chief scientist Tom Moorman. “As a result, 2018 populations dropped accordingly. However, populations of all key species Barker may be contacted at ebarker@ except northern pintails and scaup relmtribune.com or at (208) 848-2273. main above long-term averages.” He said habitat conditions in wet- Follow him on Twitter @ezebarker.

By the numbers: 2018 trends in duck breeding populations Number

From 2017

Versus average

Mallards

9.3 million

� 12%

� 17%

Gadwall

2.9 million

� 31%

� 43%

American wigeon

2.8 million

� 2%

� 8%

Green-winged teal

3 million

� 16%

� 42%

Blue-winged teal

6.5 million

� 18%

� 27%

Northern shovelers

4.2 million

� 3%

� 62%

Northern pintails

2.4 million

� 18%

� 40%

Redheads

1 million

� 10%

� 38%

Canvasbacks

700,000

� 6%

� 16%

Scaup

4 million

� 9%

� 20%

Duck breed

F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

IN SID E O U T D O O R S Salmon fishing closed on stretch of Columbia River OLYMPIA — Fisheries managers in Washington and Oregon have closed salmon fishing in the Columbia River from Buoy 10 near the river’s mouth to the U.S. Highway 395 Bridge at Pasco because of poor numbers of fall chinook passing Bonneville Dam. The closure took effect on Thursday. Deep River in Washington and other tributaries in Oregon are also closed to salmon and steelhead angling. The states had previously closed catchand-keep steelhead fishing in much of the same area. Bill Tweit, Columbia River fishery coordinator for the Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife at Olympia said the counts of fall chinook at Bonneville Dam are 29 percent below preseason forecasts, and ongoing fisheries are approaching the allowable catch limits under the Endangered Species Act. “We recognize that this closure is difficult for anglers, but we have an obligation to meet our ESA goals so that fisheries can continue in the future,” Tweit said. He said the upriver fall chinook run provides the bulk of the harvest opportunity for fall fisheries, but that returns in recent years have been declining due to unfavorable ocean conditions. The preseason forecast for this year is 47 percent of the 10-year average return of upriver fall chinook.

Elk bugling/turkey calling contest is Saturday MOSCOW — The Latah Wildlife Association will put on an elk bugling and turkey calling contest at 1 p.m. Saturday on the main stage at the Latah County Fair here. Prizes will be awarded for first, second and third places in the junior category open to callers 15 and younger and in the senior category open to callers 16 and older. Sign-up sheets are available at the association’s booth at the fair, at Umpqua Bank in Moscow or at the event.

Camping season extended in national forest

To have an event or news item

ors listed in Inside Outdoors, send Outdo s it to ebarker@lmtribune.com Brief The O’Hara Campground in the Moose Creek District will remain open through Monday. Laid Park and Giant White Pine campgrounds in the Palouse Ranger District will be open until Oct. 9. Seasonal campgrounds in the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest close at different times in late summer and early autumn. Some campgrounds in the forest are open all year but may not always be accessible because of snow.

fall depending on weather. Many of the planned areas have remained relatively untouched by fire for almost a century, according to a news release from the agency. Prescribed burns allow the agency to take advantage of low-to-moderate five behavior as a tool to reduce the risk of future catastrophic wildfires and to improve forest health and wildlife habitat for species like elk. Prescribed fires will also be used to reduce fuels following timber harvest and site preparation for timber regenBoaters can use dam locks eration. Residents of Missoula, Mont., and during day on Saturday the Bitterroot Valley are likely to see WALLA WALLA — Navigation smoke from the prescribed fire on planners from the Army Corps of En- the North Fork and Lochsa Ranger gineers will allow recreational boat- districts. ers to lock past dams on the lower According to the news release, Snake and Columbia rivers at almost prescribed fire produces less intense any time during daylight hours start- smoke than wildfires and can reduce ing Saturday, according to a news release from the agency. Commercial vessels will continue to be given precedence, and recreational vessels may be allowed to lock through with commercial craft at the discretion of the lockmaster. More information on lockage schedules, rules and protocols may be found at https://bit.ly/2CSivD4.

Hunters urged to be careful with campfires in dry forest KAMIAH — Officials on the Nez Perce-Clearwater National Forest are asking hunters to be careful if they plan to have campfires as they take to the field over the next several weeks. According to a news release from the agency, forest vegetation continues to be dry despite cooler temperatures with the onset of fall, and there is still a risk of accidental wildfire starts.

Prescribed burns begin in areas of Nez Perce-Clearwater forest

KELLY FORKS — Officials on the Nez Perce-Clearwater National ForKAMIAH — Officials at the Nez est have started prescribed fire operPerce-Clearwater National Forests ations in the Barnard Junction, Moose have extended the camping season at Kelly, Weitas and other project areas some of the agency’s campgrounds on across the forest. the nearly 4 million-acre forest. The burns will continue through the

smoke in the future by reducing the intensity of wildfires. There are no closures associated with the the burning, but roads and trails in the areas with active controlled fires will be signed. More information on the locations of burns throughout the forest is available at https://bit.ly/2N3mYrs.

Ink fading on your licenses and tags? You can get replacements BOISE — The Idaho Department of Fish and Game will let hunters and anglers who have experienced fading ink on licenses and tags get replacements free of charge. Those who experience the problem can bring their licenses and tags to any regional Fish and Game office and request a replacement. They can also mail them to a Fish and Game office along with a note requesting they be replaced. The note should include the person’s first and last name, date of birth and a return mailing address. The agency is urging people who have faded tags to request duplicates sooner rather than later. FROM STAFF REPORTS

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

F R I D A Y, S E P T E M B E R 1 4 , 2 0 1 8

OUTDOORS / HUNTING 2018

F IS H COUNTS Daily counts of chinook adults and jacks, coho and sockeye salmon, and steelhead crossing Columbia and Snake River dams: THURSDAY, Sept. 6 MONDAY, Sept. 10 Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Bonn 6,780 1,114 1,572 2 1,409 Bonn 4,564 634 824 2 998 TDals 3,306 468 673 2 1,588 TDals 4,633 307 490 0 1,097 JDay 2,025 419 495 1 1,185 JDay 3,364 608 1,029 1 1,447 McNary 2,139 151 263 2 718 McNary 3,543 355 543 0 1,624 IcHrbr 730 98 1 0 543 IcHrbr 611 115 4 0 673 LwMon 636 104 1 0 254 LwMon 523 102 21 1 564 LtGoos 587 56 0 0 204 LtGoos 484 98 0 0 508 LwGrnit 478 54 0 0 104 LwGrnit 462 84 0 1 265 PRpds 536 42 31 2 132 PRpds NA NA NA NA NA FRIDAY, Sept. 7 TUESDAY, Sept. 11 Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Bonn 4,241 657 1,127 0 1,003 Bonn 6,931 690 1,298 0 1,716 TDals 2,743 447 954 5 1,435 TDals 1,976 428 531 4 728 JDay 2,377 314 482 1 1,127 JDay 2,333 303 399 0 1,078 McNary 1,944 213 205 0 762 McNary 2,959 406 657 0 1,907 IcHrbr 661 88 2 0 547 IcHrbr 812 176 9 0 1,014 LwMon 723 163 1 0 525 LwMon 692 208 17 0 845 LtGoos 566 60 0 0 192 LtGoos 498 104 18 0 628 LwGrnit 438 58 1 0 115 LwGrnit 848 128 1 0 542 PRpds 690 98 6 2 136 PRpds NA NA NA NA NA SATURDAY, Sept. 8 WEDNESDAY, Sept. 12 Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Bonn 5,928 754 1,075 0 1,081 Bonn 4,883 629 964 0 1,180 TDals 3,371 344 871 0 1,392 TDals 2,642 482 571 2 1,006 JDay 3,651 696 1,054 4 2,116 JDay 1,818 422 557 1 910 McNary 2,300 249 359 0 1,259 McNary 2,142 314 451 1 1,115 IcHrbr 558 85 0 1 382 IcHrbr 603 127 21 0 1,075 LwMon 773 152 2 0 533 LwMon 843 240 11 0 864 LtGoos 696 96 1 0 261 LtGoos 613 113 1 0 625 LwGrnit 602 94 0 0 163 LwGrnit 473 85 1 0 475 PRpds 706 47 4 0 113 PRpds NA NA NA NA NA SUNDAY, Sept. 9 CUMULATIVE (steelhead since June 1) Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Dam Chnk ChJcks Coho Soky Sthd Bonn 4,022 591 919 0 915 Bonn 266,560 26,632 21,985 193,816 75,927 TDals 4,050 536 715 1 1,355 TDals 169,386 16,415 10,433 152,077 38,729 JDay 3,390 342 686 1 1,499 JDay 139,848 15,865 8,324 168,467 26,611 McNary 2,598 266 407 1 1,659 McNary 124,818 9,642 4,176 155,474 21,524 IcHrbr 621 120 5 0 686 IcHrbr 48,599 4,036 46 659 9,024 LwMon 437 143 2 0 512 LwMon 50,930 5,532 56 398 8,207 LtGoos 721 115 0 0 447 LtGoos 47,288 4,084 11 280 5,370 LwGrnit 850 96 0 0 243 LwGrnit 45,428 4,658 3 273 4,134 PRpds 443 29 113 0 131 PRpds 51,445 3,951 261 185,293 2,355

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