ESCAPE THE RAIN WITH A TRIP TO EASTERN OREGON A GUIDE TO THOSE LOOKING FOR SOME NEW SCENERY TANNER TODD Who doesn’t love a good road trip? With the weather getting colder and wetter in the Portland area, getting out of town and into nature seems like an increasingly attractive break from the weekly grind and daily drizzle of the city. Unfortunately for anyone looking for a change, we live in a wet state. The coastal range frequently catches rain before Portland does—and much of the rest of Oregon sees its fair share of rainfall in the winter months as well. Luckily, for those of us looking for a break in the weather or just a change of scenery, an environment that is as arid as it is beautiful lies just past the Cascades in Eastern Oregon. At first glance, the distances involved in going east are daunting, but the trip is worth the drive—although anyone planning on making the journey should put a little thought into their itinerary. Getting there can, in fact, be half the fun, provided you’ve opted for the scenic route. While it might be tempting to take I-26 over Mt. Hood and then drive down to Madras, there’s a better way for those who would rather skip the mountain traffic. Instead of going over the pass, travelers can work their way along the Columbia Gorge, heading east along I-84 to The Dalles. If you’re lucky, it is not uncommon to see huge clouds of fog lifting off of the Columbia Gorge’s forested walls like white smoke in the early morning, and the Columbia River running along the highway provides a constant source of scenery for drivers heading east along I-84. As travelers approach Hood River, they can see the weather change before their eyes, as the grey cloud cover dissipates to reveal clear blue skies and wisps of white clouds. The environment around them will begin to change too—at Hood River, the rain-fed pines
6
ARTS & CULTURE
and conifers that cluster the Gorge give way to blueish junipers and yellow grasslands. If you continue further, even the trees will fall away, leaving behind only grassy prairie and starkly beautiful black basalt cliffs. Not far past Hood River at Biggs Junction, you’ll turn southeast, away from the Columbia and towards the rugged deserts of Eastern Oregon. The land out here is windmill country—instead of crops, white wind turbines reap the air for power as far as the eye can see. Past the windmills, the terrain becomes rocky, marked by steep canyons and exposed rimrock. Near here, you’ll find Cottonwood Canyon, Oregon’s newest State Park and some of the best hiking for miles. Nestled against the steep sides of an old-west style canyon, the 8,000acre park features hiking trails, salmon fishing, camping and even a historic ranch. The park is big and beautiful enough to justify a trip in its own right, but travelers hoping to catch more of Eastern Oregon would do well to use it as a fantastic picnic spot or even a campground for overnight excursions. If you forgot to pack a picnic lunch or just want a hot meal, you can drive from Cottonwood to the historic town of Condon, only half an hour away. City-dwellers will find life moves at a different pace in the desert town, which has a population of under 800 residents. Despite its small size, the city is not lacking in its creature comforts—good coffee, food and even a remote Powell’s book outpost can all be found at Country Flowers, an all-in-one local gathering ground operated by long-term resident Darla Seale. “We’re the only flower shop in three counties,” Seale explained. “We’re the only place open to eat on Sunday for 40 miles.”
It’s important to note that Country Flowers is much more than a flower shop—in addition to the aforementioned Powell’s books, they also feature a soda fountain, an espresso counter and a full dinerstyle restaurant. Despite being one of the only places to go out to eat in the entire county—or perhaps because of it—Country Flowers features a surprisingly expansive menu. In addition to diner staples, highquality coffee, espresso affogato, bistro sandwiches and a full Mexican menu are all available to hungry travellers. In a town of less than a thousand, the selection is consistently surprising. Ask for hot sauce for your eggs, and the waiter will offer five different varieties to choose from. Outside of Country Flowers, a walk around the town is worth a relaxed afternoon away from city life. Condon features a charming library, a community theater and a free history museum. “It’s inviting,” Seale said. “We’re friendly.” If you’ve seen enough of Condon, head further south down Oregon Highway 19, towards the Condon Paleontology Center. The state-run museum will win over even the most disinterested visitors with its spectacular displays of the prehistoric plants and animals that populated the region over 40 million years ago. “People get really surprised to know that there used to be rhinos native out here, and camels, sabretooth cats and elephants,” explained Nicholas Famoso, Paleontology Program Manager at the museum. Visitors to the museum will be surprised to know that beyond the Paleontology Center’s windows, the rolling hills of the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument are filled with the preserved remains of over 200 hundred species of animals and over 800 species of plants. “We even have some fossil funguses,” Famoso said.
PSU Vanguard • NOVEMBER 30, 2021 • psuvanguard.com
