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Lakeland
www.lakeland-walker.com JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2015 ➜ ISSUE 105
walker The ONLY walking magazine dedicated to the Lake District
STAR WALKS Cumbria’s dark side awaits the midnight rambler!
WI N
A£ HF HO 650 L LAKEL IDAYS AN BREAK D
WINTER WARMER!
6
teashops where walkers are always welcome
SNUG & COSY ON THE FELLS
12
freeze-defying insulated jackets
WAINWRIGHT FOR ALL Major summer exhibition revealed
FOLLOW IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF SWALLOWS & AMAZONS Let Arthur Ransome be your guide to adventure
5
GREAT ROUTES FOR THE FROZEN FELLS
Helvellyn’s Red Tarn • Blencathra • Skiddaw • Ullswater • River Eden
£3.75
2 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
WELCOME
Reach for the stars…
Get in touch... Editorial Editor: John Manning Tel: 01756 701381 Email: johnm@dalesman.co.uk Twitter: @lakelandwalker Facebook: Lakeland-walker Advertising Advertising manager: Pauline Soper Tel: 01756 693476 Email: pauline@dalesman.co.uk
I
’ve forgotten the year, even the precise time of year… though it was a while back. Yet I’ll never forget those nights. Ranger Mick and me were staying at Hassness, the Ramblers Holidays’ place on Buttermere, for a week of fell bagging with a bunch of like-minded strangers. Even for fit youngsters (comparatively speaking) like us, the walking days were exceptionally long and hard, usually involving yomps over Fleetwith, Haystacks, Pillar, Gable or even into the Scafells… Our determined little party crossed Black Sail Pass so many times that I’m sure we wore a groove. Conversation over dinner one night was dominated by the fascinating topic of how the new Wainwright fell boots (told you it was a while ago…) compared to Brashers which, following the recent transference of production from Kendal to a factory overseas, had started to employ a new last, one that our dinner companion assured us was less comfortable. Riveting stuff… … from which a handful of us, who had quickly forged friendships the way fellgoers do, felt a compelling urge to escape by tramping a mile down the road to The Fish Inn and the Bridge Hotel in Buttermere. The sky beneath which we walked was moonless, any man-made light excluded from the valley by the Derwent Fells to the north and High Stile’s mass to the south. Yet there was no need for torches. As our eyes grew accustomed, the Milky Way shone so clear and bright that it cast a pale light on to the road ahead. And we had, effectively, our own mountain observatory: countless shooting stars tore across the sky – at least, we lost count on the way back, though the ale might have contributed… I’ve enjoyed some exotic starry nights since – in the Peruvian Vilcabamba, in New Zealand’s Nelson Lakes National Park, and
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Display: Katharine Birrell Tel 01729 693481 Email: katharine@dalesman.co.uk Classified: Jo Parkinson Tel: 01756 693477 Email: jo@dalesman.co.uk
even tucked away among drumlins off the Pennine Way – but those Buttermere memories are up there with the very best. In this issue, Andrew White encourages you to reach for the stars yourself, by enjoying the Lakeland skies at night and recommends a few cracking places to enjoy the constellations from Cumbria. On other pages, Vivienne Crow suggests a few stirring ambles from her favourite Cumbrian teashops, the perfect antidote to Ronald Turnbull’s two-day yomp in search of places related to the Swallows and Amazons tales. If this is the first time you’ve picked up a copy of Lakeland Walker, I’d like to welcome you to the growing numbers enjoying the magazine (and to thank you for helping contribute to a rise in sales which has quite taken us by surprise in recent months). If you struggle to find a copy, let us know by calling circulation manager Bob on 01756 701381, who’ll do his best to fix things. Better still, make sure you receive your copy regularly by taking out a subscription… you’ll find some tempting deals elsewhere in this issue. Finally, a slightly belated welcome to 2015: I hope this coming year is filled with fine fell days, magnificent mountain moments, and stunning nights!
cover image: on The Band, descending Bowfell in winter, by Tony West (www.tonywestphoto.co.uk) Wainwright photo by Derry Brabbs, courtesy Keswick Museum
Circulation Circulation manager: Bob Hughes Tel: 01756 701381 Email: bob@dalesman.co.uk Subscriptions Tel: 01756 701033 Email: subscriptions@dalesman.co.uk Rates:
UK 1 year (6 issues) £22.50 UK 2 years (12 issues) £45 Overseas 1 year (airmail): £30
Publisher Country Publications Limited, The Water Mill, Broughton Hall, Skipton BD23 3AG Lakeland Walker is published bi-monthly and is available from selected newsagents nationwide or by subscription – see page 26 for details. © Dalesman Publishing 2014, ISSN 1369 4553 Hill walking can be strenuous, and it is up to you to approach it with caution and if you are inexperienced to do so under appropriate supervision. You should carry appropriate clothing, equipment and maps, and wear suitable footwear. Details given in this publication were believed to be correct at the time of going to press but neither the authors nor Country Publications Ltd can accept responsibility for inaccuracies. Please stick to rights of way and access land at all times. Country Publications Ltd. does not accept responsibility for loss or damage to unsolicited drawings, paintings, photographs or manuscripts. The cost of returning such material must be paid for by the original sender. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any other means without the written permission of the publisher. Photocopying or other reproduction without the publisher’s permission is a breach of copyright and action will be taken where this occurs. While the publishers will use every endeavour to ensure that advertisements which appear are accurate and reliable, we cannot be held liable for any loss or inconvenience incurred by readers. DATA PROTECTION AND YOUR PRIVACY Country Publications respects your privacy. We will use any personal information that you provide to contact you (by post, telephone or email) regarding product or subscription orders that you place. We will also keep you informed of relevant special reader offers. Please write to our subscriptions department if you do not wish this to happen. We do occasionally share information with otherpartner organisations who may also wish to contact you with details of their offers. Please write to our subscriptions department if you do not wish this to happen. Printed: Acorn Web Offset Ltd, Wakefield. Advertisement origination: Country Publications Ltd
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 3
IN THIS ISSUE...
There’s snow in them there hills! RT ON PAGE 48… A ST S LK A W ER T IN W
03 Welcome
Make the most of these long dark nights – and reach for the stars!
07 News & Events
Keswick hosts terrific AW exhibition, New Year gongs for rescuers, and more…
09 The Lakers
20 Book reviews
35 Six of the Best: High Cuppas
26
62 Linescapes
Photographing Lakeland, an energetic young Coast to Coast record setter, and confessions of a compulsive trespasser…
Star Walks
Winter nights are perfect for viewing far-off galaxies. Andrew White shares advice that will keep us in the dark…
Follow the fell-filled antics of Jim Watson’s cartoon couple
Vivienne Crow picks six of the best winter strolls from Cumbrian teashops
Coast-to-Coast walkers might not always give it a second glance – but Crag Fell cannot escape the artistic eye and crow quill nib of Mark Richards …
THE GOOD GEAR GUIDE
11 In The Frame
Your happy snaps from the fell could land you a pair of toasty Bridgedale socks!
13 Letters
A rare and unforgettable Brocken spectre makes a mountain day unforgettable
14 In Search of Swallowdale 27 My Big Adventure
On the real-life trail of Arthur Ransome’s fictional children’s heroes
Linda Cameron looks back on how birthday walks with her dad introduced her to a lifetime in the fells – and Dad shares a few memories too
Tom Hutton tests a dozen insulated winter tops and warms to some of the latest technological breakthroughs
32 Where in the Lakes?
46 Fresh Produce
This popular test of your Lakeland ken could win you a pair of Brasher boots
4 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
40 The winter chill stops here! Mike Cowton looks at a sackful of new outdoor gear to see you through the season
DON’T MISS AN ISSUE OF
CONTRIBUTORS
Lakeland
walker Packed with the very best of the fells – delivered to your door at a price that won’t break the bank!
VIVIENNE CROW Viv doesn’t just walk and write about the fells, she does it well and has the awards to prove it! Her recent book Walks With History was shortlisted for this year’s Lakeland Book of the Year award.
RONALD TURNBULL As the author of the Book of the Bivvy you’d expect Ronald to be a dab-hand at guiding you to a night under the stars. In this issue he also recommends a little Arthur Ransome-penned bedtime reading…
MARK RICHARDS When not drawing his meticulous Linescape studies for Lakeland Walker, you’ll find Mark bounding across the fells pursued by a film camera. His Fellranger guides explore every nook and cranny of the Lake District – as does Mark!
SEE PAGE 26 FOR DETAiLS
DAVE WILLIS Photographer Dave claims to be the first photographer to have split his trousers in front of Prince Charles. A professional photographer for 30 years, he now lectures in the subject at Kendal College. He also enjoys sailing.
14 THE WALKS
48
Blencathra
Steve Goodier outlines a tough winter round of the Blencathra massif in the Northern Fells
50
Skiddaw
21 Our guide to grading the walks STROLL 2hrs/5 miles/1000ft of ascent
Near-neighbour Skiddaw Forest is, when snow-covered, as bleak and as wild as it gets, suggests Ronald Turnbull
4-5hrs/8 miles/1500ft
53 Silver Crag
HIKE 6-8hrs/12 miles/2500ft
Vivienne Crow describes a stroll beside Ullswater that scales a juniper-clad crag for breathtaking views
55 Birkhouse Moor & Red Tarn
RAMBLE
TREK 10-12hrs/15 miles/3000ft +
Gary Richardson looks for Alpine winter splendour above Glenridding while avoiding the iced ridges
EXPEDITION 12hrs+/20 miles/4000ft +
Armathwaite to Wetheral
NB: For lots of ascent, particularly steep ascents or difficult terrain underfoot, we add an extra boot.
58
Vivienne Crow describes a featurepacked stroll along the River Eden
STEVE GOODIER Fellwalker Steve has walked all over the world but always returns to Lakeland. His new book, Top Ten Literary Walks, traces the footsteps of Wordsworth and Beatrix Potter. GARY RICHARDSON Keen walker and photographer Gary fell for the fells almost 40 years ago. He likes nothing better than pitching his tent at a quiet spot up high and watching the sun set over the mountains while he cooks supper.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 5
6 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
WALKING NEWS & EVENTS
Photo: Richard Else, courtesy Keswick Museum
Keswick exhibition to showcase the legend of AW THE IMPACT OF MASTER GUIDEBOOK author Alfred Wainwright will form this summer’s flagship exhibition at the newly refurbished, state-of-the-art Keswick Museum and Art Gallery. Wainwright: a Love Letter to the Lakeland Fells, will open in May to coincide with the sixtieth anniversary of the publication of the first of his definitive Pictorial Guidebook to the Lakeland Fells series, to the Eastern Fells, and will run through to November. Organisers have secured the support of individuals and organisations associated with AW’s devoted following, including Wainwright Walks TV presenter Julia Bradbury, biographer Hunter Davies, the Wainwright Society and chairman Eric Robson, AW’s publisher Aurum Press, and Wainwright’s family and estate. While funding has been secured, fans will be invited to help improve the exhibition able to contribute via an online Indigogo crowdfunding campaign. One of the exhibition’s themes is described as the “Wainwright moment”, inspired by AW’s own account of the moment on Orrest Head which inspired his life-long affair with Lakeland. He wrote: “It was a moment of magic, a revelation so unexpected that I stood transfixed, unable to believe my eyes.” Visitors will be invited to contribute their own “Wainwright moments”; Julia Bradbury is one of those who has already contributed her own. Museum director Tony Lywood said: “Wainwright’s love for the Lakeland fells is manifest and, if we are trying to achieve anything, we are trying to encapsulate that moment: the moment that we have all felt sometime in our lives when we truly fell in love with the landscape of the fells!' The museum will offer visitors an opportunity to take a ten-minute interactive
“tour” of all the 214 summits mentioned in his Pictorial Guides. They will also be offered a chance to try their hand at a pen and ink drawing of a fell, to relive his journey from office to fell, and even write their own love letter to the Lakeland fells. Tony said: “Wainwright had a love of the Lakeland fells which was matched by an artistic and technical ability to describe this to others. In this exhibition we want to try to get an essence of that, and celebrate both AW’s love and romantic attachment to the Lake District as well as show how he developed his amazing skill to do this pictorially. “These twin obsessions lead directly to the production of the Pictorial Guides that are still in print today.” Chris Jesty and Clive Hutchby, who have both worked on revisions of AW’s classic guides, have both pledged their support – one display might compare their working desks with those of AW – and outdoor retailers in Keswick have been invited to devote parts of their window displays to promoting the exhibition. FURTHER INFORMATION • FACEBOOK: #wainwrightmoment • CROWD FUNDING: www.indiegogo.com/ campaigns/wainwright-a-love-letter-tothe-lakeland-fells • YOUTUBE: www.youtube.com/watch?v= GHxUoH0Np4Y • KESWICK MUSEUM 017687 73263, info@keswickmuseum.co.uk
Competition winners Congratulations to the winners of the competitons which appeared in our December/November issue. The New Year break at the Linthwaite House Hotel, Crook Road, Windermere, was won by Miss A. T. Ryans, of Great Sankey, Warrington. The competition for DVD and book bundles, of Chris Townend’s Pacific Crest Trail account Rattlesnakes and Bald Eagles (Sandstone Press), and the DVD Backpacking in the Lake District (Striding Edge), made by award-winning filmmaker Terry Abraham, was won by: E. Bryon of Hereford, Zoe Smith of Huddersfield, Jenny Harrison of Kendal, Alison Barr of Hayle in Cornwall, Juris Liepa of Huntingdon, and Tim Hawkes of Cracoe, Skipton. Congratulations to all the winners and many thanks to everyone who took part.
Photo: Dave Willis
Lengthy commute for newest Weatherline felltopper Graham GRAHAM UNEY HAS joined Jon Bennett as one half of the two-strong team monitoring winter conditions on the summit of Helvellyn, in all weathers, after being picked from a hundred applicants. Jon and Graham will take week-long turns in the role, gathering data for Weatherline, the phone and online
service that offers 15 million visitors and locals information about conditions that can change rapidly and fatally on the fells. The Snowdonia-based outdoor instructor ran his own company, Wild Ridge Adventure, in the Lakes before moving to Wales. “The prospect of returning to stay
for my weekly shift is great. There’s nowhere quite like it,” said the fourtimes Wainwright completer who has also ticked off all 2,000ft English and Welsh summits and has extensive winter experience. Weatherline information is available on 0844 846 2444 or via the website www.lakedistrictweatherline.co.uk.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 7
WALKING NEWS & EVENTS
Photo: ITV
Stars in festival mood LEGENDARY FELL RUNNERS Joss Naylor and Steve Birkinshaw, and TV wilderness bushcraft expert Ray Mears, are among the big draws lined up for May’s Keswick Mountain Festival. The athletes will take part in a highly anticipated joint speaker session at the festival. Joss, who turns 79 in February, set a record for running all the Wainwrights in 1986, crossing all 214 summits within seven days, one hour and twenty-five minutes. His record stood undefeated for twenty-eight years, until Steve completed the gruelling round in six days and thirteen hours. The two fellrunners will share a stage for the first time at the Theatre By The Lake on Friday, May 15. The following night it will be the turn of TV presenter and survival expert Ray Mears (pictured), whose ITV Wilderness Walks series followed the River Derwent through the Lake District’s Borrowdale valley in December.
Tickets are already on sale for a selection of adrenalin-packed activities for those who can’t sit still, including a triathlon, a trail race, an open swim and a sportive. Other event tickets were due to go on sale this month, and there’s a teaser film online hinting at the wealth of riches being lined up for the four-day outdoor celebration. There will also be a festival village and live music on Crow Park, and the festival campsite at Springs Farm will also return. Organisers were also promising some terrific additional speakers, due to be announced after this issue of Lakeland Walker went to press. The festival will be held over the weekend of May 14–17. Further details and tickets are available at the festival website, www.keswickmountainfestival.co.uk. For the taster film, visit youtu.be/WF0Xv2eOLzU.
Rotary’s lifesaving MRT gifts FOUR LAKELAND MOUNTAIN rescue teams have been kitted out with equipment worth £15,000. Cumbrian Rotary groups presented Autopulse machines – automated, portable, battery-powered chest compression devices – and lightweight Propaq monitors to the Wasdale, Kendal, Penrith and Patterdale teams. Lake District Mountain Rescue Association chairman Richard Warren said: “The provision of two Autopulses and a lightweight Propaq monitor will mean that the teams can very quickly respond to critically ill casualties, with equipment that
can artificially apply and maintain CPR while a casualty is being carried down the mountain on a stretcher or being winched into a helicopter. “This will make a big difference in our ability to increase a casualty's chance of survival if their heart stops when severely hypothermic, or in the event of prolonged resuscitation where helicopter evacuation is impossible due to adverse weather conditions.” Rotarian Kevin Walsh, said: “While we would all prefer that this equipment were not needed, the more we can make available in our communities the more lives can be saved.”
Ramblers’ ambassador Wainwright Walks presenter Julia Bradbury has been appointed Ramblers Worldwide Holiday’s first “roving ambassador”. As well as the AW series, Julia has presented shows programmes about walks in exotic places. MD Kathy Cook said: “Her infectious enthusiasm is bound to encourage more people to enjoy the many pleasures and benefits of walking.”
Pennine Ways The BBC is putting together a three-part documentary to mark the fiftieth anniversary of the Pennine Way, Britain’s first official national trail. The 268-mile route from Derbyshire to the Borders, reaches its highest point on Cross Fell (2,930ft/893m) in Cumbria.
World at your feet… MRT NY honours
LDSAMRA chairman Richard Warren (left), Tim Farron MP (second left) and Rotarian Kevin Walsh (centre-right) with members of Langdale–Ambleside, Duddon in Furness and Wasdale rescue teams during the handover life-saving equipment demonstrated by model Max
8 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
LONG-SERVING MEMBERS of Lakeland rescue teams have been recognised in the New Year Honours list. Anthony “Rob” Bawden Robinson of Coniston MRT, and Langdale Ambleside founder member John Thomas Graham, were both appointed MBEs. Former team leader Rob was honoured for services to mountain rescue and the community in Coniston, while John’s honour was for services to the team. The title Member of the Order of the British Empire (MBE) recognises significant achievements and services to a community.
Lakeland is set to thrill to paragliding, surfing and more as international film festivals touch down in the region. On January 17, the Nissan Adventure Film Festival’s tour stops at Zeffirellis in Ambleside (adventurefest.co.uk). Kendal’s own film festival highlights return to the Brewery Arts Centre on April 16 (www.kmfworldtour.com). The Banff Mountain Film Festival arrives at Keswick’s Theatre by the Lake on April 24 and 25 (www.banff-uk.com). Popcorn extra…
Small screen Scafell Terry Abraham’s Life of a Mountain – Scafell Pike had its TV debut on BBC4 on January 14. The one-hour edit of the epic will be repeated times over the coming weeks and is available on the BBC iPlayer. The full DVD is available from www.stridingedge.com.
WALKING NEWS & EVENTS
What’s on
JANUARY 14 Arnside Knott Choice of walks with Morecambe Ramblers. Details: 01524 401326, www.morecambehframblingclub.co.uk
25 That’s Lyth 23.5-mile in nine hours scenic challenge with Lakeland Long Distance Walkers Association group. Starts 8am from Abbot Hall Social Centre, Kendal. Entry fee £5/£6, pre-booking essential. Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/lakeland
21 Wild Boar Fell & Baugh Fell LDWA Irregulars lead a 12-miler taking in Wild Boar, Swarth and Baugh Fells, and Knoutberry Haw. 9am from roadside parking at the end of the minor road to Uldale (GR: SD728972). Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/TheIrregulars
26–March 1 Keswick Film Festival Eclectic programme curated by Keswick Film Club. Opens Keswick’s Alhambra on the Thursday. Details: www.keswickfilmclub.org
28 Hutton Roof Crags/Farlton Knott Choice of walks with Morecambe Ramblers. Details: 01524 401326, www.morecambehframblingclub.co.uk
MARCH 1 Coniston Caves/Wray Castle/Tarn Howes Choice of walks with Morecambe HF Ramblers. Details: 01524 401326, www.morecambehframblingclub.co.uk
FEBRUARY 7 Petzl 10km Night Runner – Grizedale Forest. Final series’ run through the forest. Details: www.thenightrunner.com
1 Holme to Holme 12-miler with Lakeland LDWA group. Starts 9.15am, Holme Village (SD524789). Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/lakeland
11 Scout Scar/River Walk Choice of walks with Morecambe HF Ramblers. Details: 01524 401326, www.morecambehframblingclub.co.uk
7 Kirkstone Dovedale Circuit 13-miles of Wainwright bagging with LDWA Irregulars. Starts Hartsop, Brotherswater, 8.30am. Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/TheIrregulars
14 Langholm’s Five Hills Cumbria LDWA leads a 16-mile tour of the hills around Langholm. 9am, from Kilngreen car park, Langholm (GR: NY361847). Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/cumbria
8 Mell Fell Medley 8.5-mile walk with the LDWA’s Irregulars Group. Starts from foot of Great Mell Fell (GR: NY407247), at 8.30am. Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/TheIrregulars
14 Tickling Trout Lake District LDWA 12-mile walk, 9am, Troutbeck Church (GR: NY412027). Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/lakeland
10 Saunter Around Sedgwick 20-mile walk with West Lancashire LDWA group. Starts from Sedgewick (GR: SD513870) at 8.30am. Details: www.ldwa.org.uk/WestLancashire
Holding a walk, talk or festival? Let Lakeland Walker spread the news! Email details to johnm@dalesman.co.uk
2014’s Personality Congratulations to Sir Chris Bonington (above, photo courtesy Chris Lines), named “outdoor personality of the year” by a London-based walking publication which recently held its award presentations in a Kendal wine bar. And no wonder it chose to travel north – most other titles were also carried off by Lakeland winners: Keswick’s Dog and Gun was named best “Pub, Restaurant or Café”, the “Accommodation” award went to Great Langdale Campsite, and Rathbones of Keswick was named “Independent Retailer”. Many runners up were also Lakeland concerns, testament to the area’s popularity and great service provided. Sir Chris – himself a Lakeland concern – has never been out of the public consciousness since leading the successful 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face Expedition, which saw Doug Scott and Dougal Haston become the first Brits to stand on its summit. Last year, he marked his 80th birthday by scaling the Old Man of Hoy with fellow Berghaus athlete Leo Houlding, repeating his televised 1966 first ascent with Tom Patey.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 9
10 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
YOUR PICTURES Snow has fallen in Lakeland but its arrival has been brief and comparatively gentle… so far! This crop of pictures show what a fine autumn most of us enjoyed. Send us your photos of your Lakeland winter: those published here could land you a pair of Bridgedale’s WoolFusion socks – perfect for keeping your toes cosy in the cold!
WiN ME The sender of every photo published will receive a pair of Bridgedale WoolFusion Trekker socks worth £14.99, so your feet can enjoy some real luxury next time you’re tramping the fells. The socks are part of the Duke of Edinburgh Award scheme’s recommended kit. Please ensure you include your full address and shoe size in your email.
Jeff Ashton, of Askham, captured this atmospheric sunrise behind Bampton in early November, while walking on Askham Fell.
Friends helped Dave Borland (left) celebrate his 60th birthday in style, with Prosecco an d chocolate brownies on the summit of Fleetwith Pike. The cheery photo was sent in by Gina Pennington, of Kend al. “Dave said he really wanted to be on top of a mountain to celebrate his birthday and that’s wh at we did,” she told us.
!) enjoys a Jarvis the cocker (groan e Tarn, good read above Bowscal panion com ng with his fell walki Street leerest Ch of , on Ian Johns lways s a County Durham. “Jarvi e to zin ga ma the likes to check track,” ht rig the on 're we re make su is vis Jar ow said Ian. Good to kn ! Ian u yo for looking out
The Old Man of Coniston took on special meaning for Anne Chadwick and Barry Lord-Gambles, of Chester, when it became the first Lakeland peak they climbed as a couple – and September blessed the ascent with fine weather and stunning views.
iN ThE FRAME Email your images to johnm@dalesman.co.uk. Please include your full name, address and boot size, along with a sentence explaining who or what is in the frame – and what they’re up to!
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 11
12 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
Find us online at: www.lakeland-walker.com Fancy a chat?
Your Letters SPEcTRE OF SKiDDAW I must share my wonderful experience during a recent trip to the Lake District. The weather was a bit iffy so we decided our safest option would be to climb Skiddaw, considering we are not quite seasoned hikers. On approaching the car park the summit was all but gone amid low mist and cloud. Not put off by the ominous weather, we booted up and began our ascent. A beautiful full rainbow arched over the mountain and we could virtually touch the end of it; having never before seen the end of a rainbow, this was quite something. The trek up the initial steep climb was, well, as you can imagine, difficult for a bunch of newbies from the flattest part of the UK, where the steepest hills are those made by moles. Nevertheless we dug deep and managed to reach the point where the path separates to go up to Little Man or around on the easier path to Skiddaw. We sat on the ground, ate a sandwich and consulted the map. “Well, it would be rude not to pay the man a visit while we are here,” I said. Up we got and virtually crawled up to the summit of “Lesser Man”, as we thought “Little Man” was known, but quickly learned otherwise from a passing hiker who kindly corrected us and pointed us in the right direction. We stood quietly on the summit of Little Man. The cloud cleared; it was like someone had drawn the curtains to reveal a breathtaking sight beneath us. I turned to my fellow hikers; no words were necessary.
We’re always delighted to hear from you, whether you’ve a story to tell, a comment to make or simply want to let off steam. Email your letters to LW@outdoorsmanning.com or post them to The Editor, Lakeland Walker, Country Publications, The Water Mill, Broughton Hall, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD23 3AG. Include your full name and postal address (not for publication). We reserve the right to edit letters for publication where necessary.
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What came next will stay with me forever. Just beyond my shadow I could see a circular rainbow. I had never seen or heard of anything like it before. I felt absolutely in awe of this amazing sight in front of me and wondered, were I to venture through it, I would end up in another world. I managed to capture a shot – only a phone snap shot but I captured it just the same. On returning to the warmth of a lovely pub I shared the picture with a few locals who were also in awe, they too had never before seen anything like it before. Theitend thethen rainbow? I posted it on Facebook and was of only that I learned I had captured something special: a Brocken spectre, a rare and beautiful phenomenon which only occurs when conditions are just right. What a magical day and a wonderful introduction to the fells of the Lake District. Perhaps I will never see a Brocken spectre again, or the end of a rainbow, but one thing is for sure: something gripped me on that mountain that cold November day and I will definitely be returning very soon… I’m hooked. Jeanie Butler, Nayland, Suffolk Have you ever been spooked by a spectral phenomenon? Let us know! Write to the editor (address on page 3) or drop a line to johnm@dalesman.co.uk.
Jeanie’s Brocken spectre
NUTTY AScENDER Enclosed is a photograph of a grey squirrel sitting on the shelter at the top of Binsey. The photo was taken during the second week of September, and I assume he enjoyed the view as much as I did! I have enjoyed the magazine since the first issue – it gets better over the years. Mike Townley, Southport
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 13
FELL WEEKENDS: SOUTHERN FELLS
In Search of Swallowdale C
ast ashore by shipwreck somewhere at the south end of Coniston Water, under the shadow of a mountain they call Kangchenjunga, four children find a stream hollow in the heart of the moors. Entered by a little climb beside a waterfall, it has flat grass for their tents of canvas and bamboo, small cliffs all around, a sloped rock slab for sliding down and an old mine cave for extra secrecy. They name it Swallowdale, and in turn it gives its name to the second book in the Swallows
14 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
Ronald Turnbull sets sail for a two-day wander in search of Arthur Ransome’s Swallows, Amazons and Kangchenjunga and Amazons series by Arthur Ransome. Beacon Tarn lies on Blawith Common: the Cumbria Way skips along its western shoreline. Beacon Tarn is the right place for the book’s “Trout Tarn” that lies just above Swallowdale –
it’s a perfect fit for the endpaper map and the pictures. So sunrise on a grey winter day found me on Blawith Common. Found me – but I did not find Swallowdale. The grey slates of southern Lakeland have
Goats Water below Dow Crag, a sheltered way on to the Coniston Fells
plenty of tilted slabs for sliding down, so that’s a tick. But there are no mine holes: we’d need to be among the Borrowdale Volcanics for those, and Blawith Common is in the gentler Silurian of the South Lakes. From the path near Beacon Tarn’s beck I could see no little rock-rimmed valley. That not-seeing is another tick: stand a few yards from the rim of Swallowdale and you can’t tell it’s there at all. From the fell wall I followed the stream itself back up. Bracken and heather:
that’s another tick. However, the heather and bracken are waist high; no way would Mate Susan allow a campground in such soggy stuff. And, struggling through the bracken back up to the tarn, I passed through no little rockringed vale. I gave up and pushed on north, wondering about Coniston Old Man and the winds forecast up there. Adventuring over these moors and hills in bad weather could be a bit dodgy. Well, supposing you’re only 10 years old, don’t have
a map (let alone a GPS which won’t even be invented for another 80 years yet), and are wearing shorts. But Mummy and Daddy trust you to be sensible and big sister Susan will keep you straight so off you go. Because the book’s “Kangchenjunga” is agreed as being Coniston Old Man; and the Swallows-nAmazons way up is over the moors from Beacon Tarn. For me the S-and-A way is the southern spur, because it’s pathless, and slightly
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 15
‘I memorise my escape routes in case the map should blow away and decide it’s quite a nice enough day to carry on over Swirl How’
Coniston Coppermines youth hostel
16 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
scrambly, and makes sense if you’re starting from Beacon Tarn. In the book they make a two-day ascent with a midway camp – because everyone knows you don’t do Kangchenjunga (8,586m) as a daywalk. But with a forecast of low cloud and winds gusting 70mph, not to mention a winter-bargain £10 bed at Holly How hostel, I’m aiming at a quick part-way-up until it gets truly nasty, an equally quick down-again, and an afternoon in Coniston’s cosy pub. In the event, the weather failed to live up to the forecast, and staying upright was perfectly possible all the way to the thickly misted summit. Out of the cloud emanated some
parents with two children, one in a full-face mask with a sucking tube stuck into the mouth hole. Yes: it’s the spooky, sinister, Young Man of Coniston Old Man. What’s worse, he hasn’t read Swallows and Amazons. I memorise my escape routes in case the map should blow away and decide it’s quite a nice enough day to carry on over Swirl How. The descent to Prison Band is worn down to bare rock steps, slippery in the rain and wind. And you know those unbreakable carbon fibre walking poles? They broke. Both of them. I shelter against a sticky-up bit of rock: on a better day, with distant hills to look at, I might not have noticed its beautiful grey squiggles, volcanic ash fallen into a crater lake. Rags of grey cloud are tearing through the gap of Swirl Hawse, with the wind noise like standing beside a motorway (but better-smelling, and a whole lot wetter). A few steps down into the hollow and the wind drops, so that I can hear myself speak, supposing I had anything more interesting to say than “oof!”. Above, a ceiling of grey, flying cloud. Black crags, with mist briefly picking out
rain-soaked rock towers before hiding them again. Brown, shaggy grass is waving like seaweed in the wind; the path winds between chunks of fallen crag. At the bottom, Levers Water shines between dark hillsides, and a glimpse of Coniston Water in the gap. Sam Bottom (yes, that’s its name) is twice as nice when you come down to it out of a windstorm with broken poles. Who needs a spot of sunshine, and a tuft of lovely spring flowers… not to mention standing in dry socks? At the end of a wintry day it’s nice to see the Sun. However, it’s 200m away up a steep little lane – I’m referring, of course, to the Sun Hotel with its cosy oak beam ceilings – so I went to Coniston’s Black Bull instead, for its Bluebird home-made beer. The youth hostel doesn’t have the roaring wind noises of the Swirl How ridge but it does have almost the same solitude. Happily two fellow guests demonstrate that you don’t absolutely have to be an old codger to stay in a youth hostel, by dashing between upstairs and the boot room three times each way in the time it takes me to
put my boots on. Some at least of today’s eight-year-olds have just as much wild energy as Roger Walker, ship’s boy of the Swallow. The youth hostel itself is Holly How: an only slightly misspelled tribute to the cottage, actually on the other side of the lake, that the Swallows can’t wait to get out of and put their tents up in Swallowdale. The dorm rooms are named after corners of Coniston Old Man; I sleep in Red Dell. One very small room doesn’t have a name (just a stickfigure symbol) but, come to think, the name “Sam Bottom” would be just right for the boys’ loo. Some members of the Arthur Ransome Society believe that Swallowdale is to be found at the top of Tilberthwaite Gill. So, after my fine fried breakfast, I head back up on to the Yewdale Fells. Day 2 has add-on weather interest, with yesterday’s wild winds and low clouds augmented with heavy and continuous rain. At the top of Tilberthwaite there is indeed a mine hole cave, only slightly spoilt by having a whole lot of water running into it. Upstream, Dry Cove Bottom above Tilberthwaite Gill
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 17
Dry Cove Bottom
the valley closes in, and starts to feel familiar. A tumbling waterfall ahead, and yes, the only way up is the scrambly rocks alongside. And at the top of the waterfall, a rock-walled little valley, hidden until you’re in it, and four little tents of antiquated ridgeline pattern, plus a stone-built perch for the parrot? No. At the top of the waterfall, an open bog. Tarn Hows is good even in the gloom. On down the lake’s east side, Grizedale Forest is where you go when there’s no point diverting to the Swallows & Amazons Tearoom cos it ain’t open. The sun comes out at Top o’ Selside, and there’s daylight left to look down on “Wildcat Island” – Peel Island on the real-world map. A
Holme Fell
Swirl How Tilberthwaite Gill
The Old Man of Coniston
Coniston
DAY 1 LAKE BANK TO CONISTON Swallows & Amazons Tearoom
High route GRADE: TERRAIN: mall moorland paths, grassy
ridge, good hill paths DISTANCE: 12 miles/19.5km TIME: 7 hours CLIMB: 3700ft/1100m Low route
Dog House Torver
GRADE: DISTANCE: 6.5 miles/11km TIME: 3-4 hours CLIMB: 700ft/200m Carron Crag
© Crown Copyright 2015 Ordnance Survey Media 003/15
DAY 2 CONISTON TO LAKE BANK High route GRADE: TERRAIN: mall moorland paths, grassy
ridge, good hill paths DISTANCE: 15 miles/23.5km TIME: 8 hours CLIMB: 3100ft/950m Low route
Long Scars
HIGH ROUTE Water Year LOW ROUTE
GRADE: DISTANCE: 12 miles/19.5km TIME: 6 hours CLIMB: 1900ft/550m
VITALS GRADE: START/FINISH: Lake Bank, southern end
of Coniston Water (GR: SD286903) OVERNIGHT: Coniston Coppermines youth hostel (GR: SD289985) DISTANCE: high route 27 miles/43km; low route 18.5 miles/30.5km TIME: two days CLIMB: high route 7400ft/2050m; low route 2600ft/750m MAPS: Harvey Maps’ 1:25,000 Superwalkers Lakeland South West and South East (both
18 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
needed); Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL6 and OL7 (both needed); OS 1:50,000 Landrangers 90 and 96 (both needed) TRANSPORT: Ulverston to Coniston bus X12 passes through Water Yeat, three times daily (not Sunday) (Blueworks Private Hire, 015395 31995 www.travelinenortheast.info) ACCOMMODATION: Coniston Coppermines YH from March 22; Coniston Holly How YH, closed Sunday and Monday in winter (015394 41261, www.yha.org.uk)
Coniston Old Man and his village from Brantwood
“So, Swallowdale? Most of Arthur Ransome’s geography is rearranged. Swallowdale isn’t actually anywhere” stony track with oak trees leads down to High Nibthwaite and the bank of the little River Crake. Brown light lingered on the hills and wooded slopes above, but the pale river ran through darkness under the alder trees. Mist rose off the sodden fields like sheep dissolved to woolly wisps.
So, Swallowdale? Most of Arthur Ransome’s geography is rearranged. Swallowdale isn’t actually anywhere. Which, in a way, makes Swallowdale everywhere. Anywhere you wake in a tent beside a silent tarn, or scramble a hidden ridge, or come down to a lake glittering between the leaves. Sam Bottom it might be on the Explorer map. But for me on that wet winter Thursday, I walked down into Swallowdale. And follow any stream uphill on any still afternoon of summer; go quietly with a small tent and open eyes where adventure is made out of your own mind and every fell is Kangchenjunga. And you too shall find Swallowdale.
The Sun Hotel at Coniston
CONISTON WATER CIRCUIT Each of the main lakes can be walked around: Coniston’s a good one for winter as it breaks into two shortish days. A reading of Swallowdale, the second of the Swallows and Amazons series, adds to the interest. In wild weather, the Cumbria Way along the lakeside makes a grand way northwards under the shelter of the oakwoods. But a proper circuit of Coniston should include not just lake and village but the Old Man himself.
Route in brief: Day 1 Bus travellers will start and end at Water Yeat. There’s a car parking place 1km north, on the east side of A5084 near Lake Bank. Paths lead up to Beacon Tarn: follow its east shore up on to Beacon Fell, a grand viewpoint along the lake. Drop north-west (no path) to join Cumbria Way, which skirts Stable Harvey Moss (should be Unstable Harvey Moss). At Mere Beck, the Cumbria Way bears down north-east for Coniston village. For Coniston Old Man, though, keep north for Torver. Head up past Ashgill slate quarry (which has a 15-million-year long Geological Age named after it), over Little Arrow Moor up the south ridge of Coniston Old Man. Swallows and Amazon fans will ignore any path and take all small crags head-on.
Swallows and Amazons Lakeland locations The Lake itself is a blend of Windermere and Coniston Water Holly Howe, the lakeside cottage where the Swallows’ mother stays, is Bank Ground
Head north over Swirl How, descend Prison Band to Swirl Hawse, then Sam Bottom to Levers Water. Overnight at Coniston Coppermines YH (if open) or in Coniston village.
Route in brief: Day 2 The Cumbria Way continues from Coniston village to Tarn Hows. But for a return to the hills, head over Yewdale Moor by the old mine path of Crook Beck, and down Tilberthwaite Gill (the south-side path is gentler). You can then take in Holme Fell, the lowest of Wainwright’s Southern Fells… it can’t be that tough can it? From Tarn Hows head south on woodland paths and tracks. Drop to Bank Ground Farm (if open) for a Swallows and Amazons lunch – you could try asking for “pemmican” and “grog”. Next high point is Carron Crag, a knob of grey sandstone that could be the most challenging scramble of all among Wainwright’s Outlying Fells (that’s still not very challenging). Soggy moorland is the price to pay for Top o’ Selside, lake-long views and a descent above the lake foot to High Nibthwaite, then a brief riverbank on the way to Water Yeat. The A5084 north to the car park has stone
Farm at the northeast corner of Coniston Water, now the Swallows & Amazons Tea Room (closed in winter) www.bankground.com In his book In Search of Swallows & Amazons, Roger Wardale finds Swallowdale on the rather boggy beck east of Beacon Tarn
Levers Water walls and blind corners; better to take the moorland bridleway to the west over Blawith Common.
above Long Scars. I’m not convinced. Wild Cat Island is basically Peel Island, at the south end of Coniston Water, though it borrows bits of islands in Windermere. Trout Tarn above Swallowdale is Beacon Tarn on Blawith Common. Kangchenjunga is Coniston Old Man.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 19
BOOK REVIEWS Rachel – A Remarkable Record Breaker by Joyce Buxton Buxton & Moseley, £11.95 NO WONDER WAINWRIGHT’S Coast to Coast Walk is Britain’s most popular walking route, providing as it does a cross-section of some of the most spectacular scenery the north (let’s face it, the best bit!) of England has to offer. It remains my favourite long English trail, some 25 years after I followed it from St Bee’s to Robin Hood’s Bay.
To my shame, I’ve never gone back – unlike Patterdale lass Rachael Moseley who, by her ninth birthday, had chalked up three remarkable crossings, each a fresh claim for the record books. In this self-published volume, Grandma Joyce recounts the story of each, over the course of which Rachael became, at the age of seven, the youngest person known to have completed the walk, the youngest (at eight) to have completed two crossings and – you guessed – the youngest to complete a third, finishing at Robin Hood’s Bay on the day of her ninth birthday in April 2013. Told by Grandma, it is the affectionate story of a bright, energetic girl enthused by the delights of the countryside and the challenge of the walk. Woven into the narrative is invaluable advice for encouraging youngsters into the hills: the thrill of adventure, measuring height against foxgloves, the rewards of chocolate and ice cream… Her first crossing was achieved in the company of father Ian and the careful planning he undertook – short days, vehicle support on call at any time – was rewarded not only by a successful walk but also by big sister Catherine demanding that they take her along for a second crossing. This well-illustrated tale will enchant any reader (especially parents and grandparents) and should inspire a generation to pull on their boots and delight in fresh air and adventure. Rachael has since added the West Highland Way to her accomplishments and – who knows – perhaps one day she’ll follow in Dad’s footsteps and walk from Land’s End to John o’ Groats… JM
Photographing the Lake District by Stuart Holmes fotoVUE Outdoor Photography, £25 IT’S NOT OFTEN that books with a split personality manage to succeed on two fronts. Schizophrenic examples: walking guides that contain so many illustrations you can’t see the wood for the trees; informative coffee table books too heavy to pick up and read without spraining a wrist… you get the idea. Photographing the Lake District, however – dually subtitled “a guide to the most beautiful places” and “how to improve your photography” – hits its target nails so squarely on the head that I’m tempted to declare it “perfect”. In essence it’s a guide to where to go within the Lake District to capture the perfect photograph, and how to go about that. It splits the National Park into six regions (plus a few cultural centres) and directs the reader to some of their most scenic locations, offering a variety of viewpoints for each, from which the
20 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
aspiring landscape photographer can chose depending on time of day, weather, personal inclination… Armed with this aspect of the book, no photographer should ever return
The Compleat Trespasser by John Bainbridge by John Bainbridge Fellside Books, £5.99 WITH THE ACCESS freedoms enjoyed in Lakeland, it’s perhaps easy to forget how much of the English landscape was out of bounds before the CROW Act of 2000. It’s easier to overlook the fact that there are still areas where walkers are not welcome. John Bainbridge is one of those gnarly access campaigners to whom walkers owe a great debt. This book recounts old campaigns, debates legal rights and wrongs and more… but it‘s John’s anecdotes that I find most entertaining and most illuminating. John’s suffered for his cause, playing hide-and-seek with gamekeepers, and even ended up being bloodily peppered with shotgun pellets on one adventure… You can’t help but suspect that he saw the trespassing – sneaking around estates, hiding among bushes, running hell for leather from keepers – as something of a sport, that landscapes were all the more beautiful for the fact that he wasn’t supposed to be there. At the same time he was defending a principle, that people shouldn’t be denied peaceful enjoyment of the countryside purely so that sportsmen can have ten annual days of undisturbed pleasure. Much of the action is set on John’s home ground on Dartmoor but the principles apply across the land. And the campaign goes on, for stretches of coastline, areas of woodland and riverbank. JM home complaining that there was nothing to capture on film. There’s also a section on photographic technique that spells out in clear, understandable terms a wealth of advice for anyone who, like me, longs to improve their own photography. On top of all that, the book’s 320 pages are as richly illustrated as any book I think I’ve ever seen about the Lake District. Every image in the book has been taken by author Stuart Holmes and every one is a work of art. The photographs are well reproduced, their colours vibrant, almost inviting a reader to reach out and touch. The book’s format doesn’t detract (though the paperback binding makes the few that span two pages harder to view) and is a practical size and weight to stow in the car for easy reference when out and about with a camera – though at 726g it’s perhaps borderline for throwing into a backpack. Even if photography’s not your thing, Photographing the Lake District is a superb guide to cherry picking Lakeland’s most scenic viewpoints. Worth its weight… JM
NiGhT hiKES: DARK SKIES
Star Walks
Cumbria’s long winter nights and remote, uninhabited hills are perfect for star gazing. Andrew White invites you to join him on the dark side
F
or hundreds of years, man has looked to the night sky and marvelled at the magnificence and mystery of the heavens. Today, thanks to space exploration and science, some of that mystery has gone – but none of the magnificence. In recent times it has become increasingly difficult for many of us to actually see the night sky in its full glory. Thanks to light pollution from the towns and cities we live in, instead of stars, most people now see an orange glow at night. And it is getting worse: a star count conducted nationally in January 2011 by the Campaign to Protect Rural England showed that people living with severe
light pollution had increased from 54 per cent in 2007 to 59 per cent in 2011. Fortunately, Cumbria has darker skies than the rest of the north west of England, and the Lake District National Park has the darkest in the county. So as well as being a great place to walk, our Lakeland is a fantastic place to see the night sky. Throughout the British Isles, the UK Dark Sky Discovery Partnership has designated a range of locations – including three in Cumbria – as Dark Skies Discovery Sites (DDDS). To qualify, areas have to satisfy a number of criteria: they have to be away from local sources of light pollution, must provide good sightlines, and
Looking towards the starry Scafells from Yewbarrow (photo: Terry Abraham)
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 21
: Stuart Atkinson) ght above Kendal (photo The Milky Way shines bri
NIGHT TECH DISORIENTATED? DON’T WORRY, BE ’APPY… One of the major difficulties would-be astronomers have is locating constellations and working out which star is which. It’s even more complicated than working on which hill is hill when you’re on top of Helvellyn… Worry not – smartphones are your friend, with a range of apps to help map the skies. They work by using the phone’s GPS and gyro sensors to plot what is directly above you. One of the most popular is Star Chart (iPhone, Android and Windows), which uses augmented reality to graphically show the constellations and find their names. Others are available, but check whether your chosen app needs a mobile signal for the sky data, or whether it downloads entire star charts.
offer good public access. The Lake District has two such sites, at Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre, Ennerdale, and Allan Bank, Grasmere. Allan Bank is the more accessible, being a short walk up the hill from the centre of Grasmere. Owned by the National Trust, it is classed as an “Orion” site – the seven main stars in the winter constellation Orion are visible to the naked eye there – but access is only available in the evenings for organised events. The Field Centre at Low Gillerthwaite has the higher "Milky Way" status, signifying a much darker sky where the Milky Way – the galaxy of which our own Solar System is a part – is visible to the naked eye. That is a benefit of being tucked away in Ennerdale – one of the remotest spots in England – some 19 miles from the largest nearby town, Whitehaven. Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre was the first DDDS in the north-west, and has free open access to walkers and cyclists. The third Cumbrian site is the Royal Society for the Protection of Birds’ Geltsdale reserve, in the North Pennines. Like Low Gillerthwaite, Geltsdale is classed as a “Milky Way” site, and is accessed from the rugged (but free) Clesketts car park, just east of Brampton. There, you can stargaze to the sound of black cock lekking, and perhaps experience the thrill of a barn owl momentarily flitting across the constellations. Dark skies places aren’t limited to Dark Sky places, if you get my drift. Most walks into the wild Cumbrian countryside will provide you with clear views of the night sky, and the more
remote you are, the more you’ll see of it. Ennerdale is great for wild night walks, as is the area around the Langdale Valley. Perhaps a walk from one of the car parks off the B5343 near Rossett, heading up the Mark Gate trail past Dungeon Ghyll Force, into the Langdale Pikes? That would certainly give you a great view of the sky above… Castlerigg stone circle near Keswick is a truly awe-inspiring location from which to observe the stars, though there can be a fair bit of light pollution from the busy A66 to the north – so it’s a good place to be looking at the southern sky. On the western side of the Lake District, a walk across Darling Fell and Low Fell overlooking Loweswater provides good views of the sky and isn’t too challenging for those not used to night-walking. The more adventurous might appreciate a hike from Patterdale along Grisedale, past the tarn and around to Dollywagon Pike for fantastic skies in all directions. Combining a walk with a wild camp enables you to reach some of the best, otherwise inaccessible places for star gazing. The uplands around Langdale are a great place for a starry wild camp. A walk from Chapel Stile along the Langdale Valley, through Oxendale and up to Crinkle Crags, Shelter Crags or around Great Slab near Bow Fell provides some stunning places. Get settled before sunset, then sit back and let the stars of the sky entertain you far better than a night in front of those appearing
Wild camp in Upper Eskdale (photo: Terry Abraham); below left: Orion (Stuart Atkinson)
on Strictly, or I’m a Celebrity… If you are going to wild camp, remember to do so responsibly. In the Lake District it’s generally okay to pitch above the 450m contour if you leave no trace of your stay, don’t light any fires and stay for only one night. Pitch wellway from the nearest path and, if you can, use a tent that blends into its surroundings as much as possible. So what should you look out for in the Lake District sky? The most obvious body in the sky to see at night is the moon. Just like the sun, the moon rises roughly in the east and sets in the west. If you want to view it, then it is best to choose nights when it is at half phase – between a new and full moon – in order to see the most detail. Using binoculars will give you a much better view but, even without, you should be able to see the landing site for the Apollo 11 moon
landing – the Sea of Tranquillity – with the naked eye. It’s best to choose nights when the moon is in its minimal phases if you want to particularly look at other objects in the sky, as the light from a full moon can block out much of the sky in the same way that light pollution does in cities. In the clear skies of the Lake District, you’ll be able to spot all of the planets which can be seen by the naked eye – that’s Venus, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn – provided they’re in the right part of the sky, of course. The planets tend to lie in a line running east-to-west nearer the southern horizon in summer and further away from it in winter. Venus is the brightest planet just after sunset and before sunrise – hence its “Evening Star” and “Morning Star” nicknames. The other planets – red Mars, yellowy-white Jupiter and pale-yellow Saturn – are at their most visible during the darkest
STAR-STUDDED EVENTS ROLL-UP FOR THE GREATEST SHOW IN THE GALAXY… • Low Gillerthwaite Field Centre was the first DDDS in the north-west, and has free open access to walkers and cyclists. The centre hosts a range of Dark Sky events together with members of the Cockermouth Astronomical Society. The next dates in 2015 are February 20–22 and March 20–22, to coincide with the new moon. The free events are perfect for people wanting to learn more about the night sky. Visit www.lgfc.org.uk to check availability and book by calling 01946 861229 or emailing warden@lgfc.org.uk. • Border Astronomical Society will hold a Dark Sky event at Geltsdale RSPB reserve on February 2, between 7–9pm. The sky watch costs £2 for RSPB or BAS members and children, and £4 for all others. Places can be booked by calling 01697 746717 or emailing geltsdale@rspb.org.uk.
tlerigg Stone Circle, Orion shines above Cas ry Abraham) near Keswick (photo: Ter
FIVE TIPS FOR NIGHT HIKERS Keep warm Nighttime temperatures drop considerably; coupled with the fact the temperature drops around 2°C per 1,000ft (300m) of ascent, it’s important to wear appropriate clothing on a night walk. Follow the layering method – baselayer, midlayers and outer layer – and pack additional midlayers to pull on as the mercury falls (Mercury the planet is actually quite difficult to see in the night sky…).
Keep safe Few walkers are experienced night hikers: enjoy the darkness but have a headtorch – and spare batteries. Allow your eyes to adjust to the light levels but don’t resist using the headtorch when you need it. Safely is paramount. Even landscapes you’ve known for years take on a different perspective at night, so frequent checking of the relevant Harveys or Ordnance Survey maps is vital. If using a GPS or navigation app, conserve batteries by turn the screen’s brightness as low as necessary.
Food & Drink Given nighttime temperatures, a flask of something warming would be good idea. Take plenty of drinking water too. Bananas make great snacks as they contain potassium to stimulate chilled muscles.
Be comfortable You’re going to be sky watching for a while, so be comfy. The best position to view the sky is lying on your back, so use a sleep mat, and consider a sleeping bag too.
Equipment It’s not practical to lug a telescope far into the fells but decent binoculars – 10x50s will do – will allow you to see the Andromeda galaxy and even Jupiter’s moons. 24 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
times of night. In February 2015, Jupiter, Mars and Venus will be visible pretty much straight up in the sky, with Jupiter towards the east and Mars and Venus close to the horizon on the west. For star gazing, the northern sky’s constellations are the easiest, as they are the same year-round – so with a clear sky and some practice you’ll soon be able to recognise them. The Plough is the easiest to spot, as it is always above the horizon and has a shape like a saucepan. Find this, and the two stars furthest from the handle bit point towards Polaris – the North Star. In the winter sky, if you continue along the same line from the handle of the Plough, through the North Star, you’ll reach the bottom star in the zig-zag constellation of Cassiopeia. In the southern sky, Orion the hunter is easiest to spot in winter, as it will be high in the sky. Start by looking for three bright skies in a short, straight line – Orion’s Belt – with the four stars surrounding it being his hands and feet. If you’re keen to learn more, then one of the many star chart apps for you smartphone would be a good idea (see box). Experiencing the night sky from the Lake District’s many dark sky locations is just another one of the wonders of this amazing landscape. Left: Camped wild beneath a star-speckled Lakeland sky (photo: Peter Dixon)
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26 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
MY BiG ADVENTURE
The birthday horseshoe A
s a parent I have discovered that, if you give something a good title and create a sense of a drama about it, children are much more likely to want to do it. And so, at the age of eight, my debut “Birthday Walk” was Wansfell. I have no recollection of the walk but Dad assures me that after that triumph we agreed to do a special annual walk, around the time of my birthday. The route would be of my choosing, to ascend directly as much as possible (no messing with long, winding, uphill paths) and definitely had to involve scree.
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Linda Cameron recalls a childhood Fairfield adventure – and dad Bob Elliott chips in too! Dad has been walking the fells since he was tiny and, as a consequence, so have I. In 1984 he bought a share in a flat in Bowness and, from that date, every holiday we had was in the Lake District. My friends spent their youth jetting off to exotic places – Italy, Euro Disney, even the Yorkshire Dales – but every Easter, summer, New Year and half-term we packed the car so full that you could not see out of the windows, and headed for Bowness. On arrival, Dad would want to climb something and, to his credit, he never let the fact that he had a wife and two notvery-compliant daughters deter him. My sister – being six years younger than me, and a lot shorter in the leg – was generally allowed to sit and play by a tarn with Mum while I was dispatched with Dad to go up something. We
Above: almost through! Linda Cameron (née Elliott) emerges from brackenengulfed Rydale. Top, Helvellyn, seen from the Fairfield ridge across Cofa Pike
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 27
Linda battles through the bracken during the second of her Birthday Walks, in 1985 had many great walks together, but the ones which really stand out in my memory are the Birthday Walks. Despite one of the founding principles being that they were to be of my choice, I have little memory of ever being involved in the planning stages. Dad would read the relevant Wainwright chapter and attempt to show me the route on the framed map which hung on the lounge wall. I would nod, thinking of other things, his words of enthusiasm washing over
me. I was always excited about the walks but never interested in maps or geological features, which meant I had no idea what I was letting myself in for, nor how high or far the walk was going to be. Essential nuggets of knowledge, which only the folly of youth thought irrelevant. My memories of the walks often take the form of a few snapshots, each picture deep in detail but generally lacking much breadth when it comes to the whole – another side
‘Despite one of the founding principles being that they were to be of my choice, I have little memory of ever being involved in the planning stages’ effect of being a child at the time. However, I do clearly remember that, the night before each walk, Dad would ring the weather hotline and make sure there was a favourable(ish) forecast. We would then set out early with our picnic and a wildly unrealistic timeframe within which to complete the walk: the pattern for all our walks was set. The Birthday Walk for my ninth birthday was the Fairfield Horseshoe, and it is the first to hold a place in my consciousness. The Horseshoe, visible from the window of our flat , was a name and vista I was very familiar with. At that age I had no concept of scale, and no clue therefore as to quite how long a walk it was going to be. My Auntie Julia had given me a horn mountain whistle for the occasion, just in case we got into trouble, and I wore it proudly around my neck the whole day. I
Linda takes a rest during the birthday round of the Fairfield Horseshoe
28 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
didn’t really need it, although there were times when I felt like blowing it in protest! The ascent was never-endingly long, although the first part, up to the ridge, conformed to that other founding principle, that we should go straight up. The route was flanked by over-grown ferns of Paleolithic proportions: one of my most vivid memories is the feel of them pinging back on to my face as Dad surged onward and upward. Given the lack of time we had in which to stop and enjoy the views, or even lunch, it must have been a tad frustrating for Dad, and the descent was characterised by his increasing hysteria, urging me to go faster as we were, by then, hideously late to meet Mum and Victoria. Naturally to a nine-year-old, that was hilarious rather than motivational. Despite the odds, we did it. We walked the Horseshoe, met Mum and Victoria and had a tale of adventure with which to regale them. The sense of achievement in doing a real, grown up walk was etched into me. My first marathon walk, one to come home from with a sense of pride, and one that has grown in our memories and got longer on each fond retelling.
Hart Crag’s summit cairn provides a sunny spot for a snack during Linda’s Birthday Walk
I am very grateful to Mum and Dad for passing their love of the Lake District and of walking on to me. Now, whenever I am there, my eyes wander longingly upwards to the mountains, knowing that up on the tops is where I am supposed to be. I hope my own children gain that same sense of place and
belonging that the landscape of the Lake Districts inspires in me. Oh, and having walked the Horseshoe as an adult, those ferns are a surprisingly small and insignificant part of the landscape and the walk up – by the conventional route – is delightful. Linda Cameron
A fatherly tale The Fairfield Horseshoe seemed an ideal Birthday Walk for Linda’s ninth. I thought that the five miles of fine turf from High Pike up to Fairfield and round to Heron Pike – all above 2,000 feet – would be easy and spectacular enough to encourage Linda to further adventures on the fells. I had, of course, played down the severity of the climb to Low Pike and the arduous drop from Nab Scar back into Rydal… We were dropped by Mum at Rydal Mount and set off on this, the second of our birthday expeditions, walking straight ahead into the Rydal Valley. Instead of following the conventional Fairfield Horseshoe path, going left on to Nab Scar, our idea was to return that way, choosing instead to cross over valley towards the Low Pike/High Pike Ridge and to tackle the Horseshoe anti-clockwise. We knew the gated route along the valley track and followed it until we crossed Rydal Beck at Buckstones Jump, a natural dam crossing the fast-running stream, which has formed a sizeable triangular pool. “No Swimming” is daubed in fading white paint above the pool. As a family, we have visited and picnicked there spot many times. We once walked there with Granny, who was so enthralled that she announced that she had reached “The Promised Land”! And thus “The Promised
Land" has become the family’s name for this idyllic place. Dot and I celebrated our silver anniversary there, the pool being a relatively safe place to keep the Champagne cool. As the beck was not in full spate, Linda and I knew we could cross it relatively easily at Buckstones Jump. The slope to the ridge would, however, be more of a problem but Linda was happy that we had chosen the direct route. There is a picture of her
‘I had, of course, played down the severity of the climb to Low Pike and the arduous drop from Nab Scar back into Rydal...’ ploughing through the tall, pathless bracken at the start of the ascent; on several occasions the fronds whacked back into her face, and her initial zest was soon lost in the severity of the ever-steepening scramble to the ridge, which we eventually gained just below Low Pike. Our progress up and over High Pike, Dove Crag, Hart Fell and on to Fairfield’s vast summit was slower than I had bargained for and the long awaited “easy” run down to Great Rigg and along the ridge to Heron Pike, came at a
A grown-up Linda and father Bob consult the Wainwright guide for the right way to Lord’s Rake, on Sca Fell, in 2010
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 29
SHARE YOUR ADVENTURES! Whether it’s a multi-day trip of a lifetime or an epic mountain trip you’ll never forget, Lakeland Walker readers will love it! If chosen to appear here, your story could win you a Keela Sherpa jacketcum-gilet and a Neck Scarf Gaiter, together worth more that £100! Tell your story in around 1,200 words and send it, with a selection of photos, to johnm@dalesman.co.uk. Above, a young Linda on Hart Crag’s summit cairn. Right, ascending Great Rigg, towards Heron Pike and Windermere time when Linda seemed too tired to enjoy it. Another picture, on the way up, shows a seemingly happy Linda beside the cairn on Dove Crag, with St Sunday Crag looming behind her. There is also one of her approaching Dove Crag, lying prostrate across a rock in the middle of the path. The fact that I have no photos of the descent suggests that I had other priorities, cajoling Linda back down to Nab Scar. We were entertained by great views from Dove Crag across to High Street, of Helvellyn and Striding Edge from the ridge leading from Hart Fell to Fairfield. The most memorable was that of the western horizon, taking in the Coniston Fells, Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell with the Scafells close-by, and then the unmistakable sugar plum shape of Great Gable with Pillar next, looking like a semicircular dome, the three peaks of the High Stile range, and finally Skiddaw. As we progressed down the ridge we took in the fabulous sight of Windermere, Esthwaite and Coniston Water radiating from the spine of the fell, with Morecambe Bay in the background. The uncomfortable descent from Nab Scar seemed to go on for ever but we arrived back at Rydal Mount elated by an excellent round, and well out of time.
The western skyline from Hart Crag, looking across Heron Pike and Great Rigg
30 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
Thirty years on we have realised that Linda’s son John will be eight this year: we are due to march him up Wansfell, scene of Linda’s first Birthday Walk, to start the process again. As she has three boys and a girl, Granddad might be better occupied looking after the younger ones while Linda takes John – and in due course, his brothers and sister – on the
walks. I would love to do them all again but admit that I might now be the one needing to be “hurried up”. Bob Elliott l This issue’s Adventure is an edited extract from My Birthday Walks, by Linda Cameron and her father Bob Elliott.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 31
cOMPETiTiON
32 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
THE BIG PICTURE
photographer andy stothert regularly stalks the fells in search of material for our regular knowledge test. Do you recognise what’s in the frame? study the picture, then use your fell-ken and your maps to pinpoint exactly where you reckon andy set up his tripod. send us the six-figure grid reference, along with the national Grid prefix… whoever comes closest will win a pair of Brasher hillmaster ii GTX boots worth £150. Don’t forget to include your boot size and postal address… We’ll announce the winner in our next issue.
linda@dalesman.co.uk (use the subject line “Where in The lakes”)
Where in the Lakes? Think you know the Cumbrian fells like the back of your hand? Test that knowledge by entering our popular competition… you might even win a pair of Brasher boots for your next fell outing!
Where in the lakes?, lakeland Walker, Country publications ltd, The Water mill, Broughton hall, skipton, north Yorkshire BD23 3aG
last issue’s image foxed many, despite the familiar peaks. andy was stood on lingmoor Fell (at nY303046), looking west to the snow-dusted Crinkles and Bowfell, parked beyond pike of Blisco and The Band. among those who pinpointed the spot were James Clark of hertford, and steve Buxton of swadlincote, Derbyshire. First from the hat, however, was andrew Whorley, of harrogate, who wins a pair of endangered Brasher hillmaster boots. after a 30th anniversary revamp, the iconic hillmaster, developed by devoted hillgoer Chris Brasher, will be absorbed into the Berghaus footwear family from this spring. For details see www.berghaus.com.
This competition is open to all UK residents and closes at 9am on monday, February 20, 2015. if more than one correct entry is received, the winner will be determined by a draw. if no correct entries are received, the draw will be made between those who’ve made the next best guess. We won’t disclose your information to third parties but may hold it on a database, so that we can let you know about special offers we think might interest you. if you’d rather we didn’t, just mention it clearly on your entry.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 33
Stirring walks Every Lakeland walk should include a good leg stretch, a cracking view and a great café! On the following pages we’ve selected a few of our favourites – and we’d love to hear about your own. Drop the editor a line at:
johnm@dalesman.co.uk
34 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
SiX OF ThE BEST
High cuppas There’s more to Cumbria than great hills and beautiful lakes – it’s home to some tantalising teashops too. Vivienne Crow suggests six of the best walks for those days when the felltops are foul, or the effort seems perhaps just a little too much… and the prospect of cake is too tempting!
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 35
THE APPLE PIE, AMBLESIDE
TOWERING OVER AMBLESIDE, Wansfell Pike provides fantastic views of Windermere and the surrounding fells. As well as visiting the 1,581ft (482m) summit, this walk takes in a dramatic waterfall, pleasant green lanes, relaxing woodland paths, superb viewpoints and, as if all that wasn’t enough, an historic village half way round.
Route Take the lane signposted to the “the waterfalls” around the back of Barclays Bank, then bear left to follow Stock Ghyll upstream. At the top of the waterfalls, head right to a lane. Follow this uphill for a short while, then take the path to the right, which leads all the way to the summit of Wansfell Pike. A path then heads east to join the old drove road known as Nanny Lane down to Troutbeck. Head south through the village then take the track – Robin Lane – on the right immediately after the shop. Having branched off to the left after about three quarters of a mile (1.2km), you reach the farmyard at High Skelghyll. Beyond, the bridleway enters Skelghyll Wood, later passing to the north of Jenkin’s Crag and
MILLER HOWE, GRASMERE
EASEDALE TARN, A POPULAR beauty spot since Victorian times, sits in a lovely bowl 650ft (200m) above Grasmere with steep, rocky slopes to the north and south-west. The walk from Grasmere passes close to the dramatic waterfalls of Sourmilk Gill. A circuit of the tarn is then completed using a good path on its south side and crossing boggy ground to pick up a faint trail along its northern edge. The return route is via peaceful Far Easedale.
Route
Trees overlooking Easedale Tarn
36 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
Walk along Easedale Road for nearly 756 yards (700m) then enter the woods on your left. The route heads up through the valley, later climbing beside tumultuous Sourmilk Gill. On reaching Easedale Tarn, follow the main path as it skirts the southern side of the water. Drawing level with the western end of the tarn, leave the well-trodden path and find a way across the damp ground to ford the inlet stream at the tarn’s edge. Keep the water on your right until you reach the outlet stream. Now turn left to drop into Far Easedale, crossing the beck via a footbridge. Walk downstream, later losing the beck but
continuing on a clear track towards Grasmere. On reaching the far end of the Easedale Road, turn left to walk back into the village.
Other options The possibilities from Grasmere seem endless. One of the easiest is to head out along the old Corpse Road to Rydal and return via lakeside paths. And Helm Crag is just crying out to be climbed…
MILLER HOWE LOCATION: Red Lion Square, Grasmere LA22 9SX CONTACT: 015394 35234 OPEN: daily, 9am–5pm in winter THE WALK: Easedale Tarn GRADE: DISTANCE: 5.6 miles/9km CLIMB: 984ft/300m START/FINISH: beginning of Easedale
Road, Grasmere village (GR: NY337076) MAPS: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL7
Looking along the ridge wall from Wansfell Pike
THE APPLE PIE LOCATION: Rydal Road, Ambleside, LA22 9AN CONTACT: 01539 433679, www.applepieambleside.co.uk OPEN: daily, 9am–5pm in winter THE WALK: Wansfell Pike
its great view of Windermere. Having crossed Stencher Beck and left the woods, head downhill along an asphalt lane. Go right at a Tjunction and right again at the main road to return to the centre of Ambleside.
Other options Why not try out a picturesque circuit of Loughrigg Fell and call in at Loughrigg Tarn part-way round. Or, for a more challenging day out, consider tackling the Fairfield Horseshoe.
Near School Knott above Windermere
FOLLOWING THE WELL-WAYMARKED Dales Way for much of its journey, this fairly gentle but charming linear walk links Staveley and Windermere via the Oxenholme to Windermere railway line. Crossing low-lying, hilly ground, it makes its way along quiet country lanes, over rough grazing land and across open, grassy hillsides. It then abandons the Dales Way to climb to tiny School Knott (761ft/232m) for some great views to the west.
Route Join the the Dales Way by heading south along a minor road from Staveley station. Follow a quiet lane to Field Close, then field tracks and paths to another minor road. Heading roughly south-west, the Dales Way keeps to the asphalt for 1.25 miles (2km),
GRADE: DISTANCE: 6.4 miles/10.3km CLIMB: 1866ft/569m START/FINISH: Rydal Road car park,
Ambleside (GR: NY374047) MAPS: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL7
WILF’S CAFÉ, STAVELEY
going right at a T-junction. A track then heads south-west between drystone walls. When it ends, waymarkers lead the way across rough grazing land and fields to the buildings at Crag House and then Outrun Nook. Leave the Dales Way about 820 yards (750m) west of Hag End to climb to School Knott, with its views of the northern end of Windermere and the shapely Langdale Pikes. Head north-west to reach the edge of Windermere and the station, for the train back to Staveley.
Other options There’s some lovely woodland in the Staveley area, including Craggy Plantation and Dorothy Farrer’s Spring Wood. Or you could follow the Dales Way east, beside the River Kent, to Burneside.
WILF’S CAFÉ LOCATION: Mill Yard, Staveley LA8 9LR CONTACT: 01539 822329,
www.wilfs-cafe.co.uk OPEN: daily, 9am–5pm in winter THE WALK: Staveley to Windermere via the Dales Way GRADE: DISTANCE: 5.6 miles/9km CLIMB: 303m/995ft START: Staveley railway station
(GR: SD468981) FINISH: Windermere railway station
(GR: SD413986) MAPS: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000
Explorer OL7
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PEACEFUL CALDBECK VILLAGE sits at the foot of the Northern Fells, making it a great base for exploring this lonely edge of the Lake District. This walk goes right to the base of High Pike, passing through an impressive limestone gorge – home to the ruins of The Howk – along the way. In just a couple of kilometres, you go from idyllic rural settlement through rolling farmland to the open commons, wild even at this low altitude.
WATERMILL CAFE, CALBECK WATERMILL CAFÉ LOCATION: Priest’s Mill, Caldbeck, CA7 8DR CONTACT: 016974 78267, www.watermillcafe.co.uk OPEN: daily, 9am–5pm, weekends only from January 20 to February 4 THE WALK: Caldbeck and its commons
Route Take the path to The Howk from near the south-west corner of the village duck pond. Having passed the picturesque ruins of the bobbin mill and an impressive waterfall, cross Whelpo Beck via a footbridge and cross the field to a road. Walk west along the road for a few hundred yards, then pick up a path south,
across fields. Go right at the next road and then immediately left, signed for Fellside. In about 250 yards (230m), head left along a track and field paths towards the remains of Moor House, then on to the buildings at Little Fellside. Once free of the farmland, head eastsouth-east along the base of the fells, later fording Potts Gill. Follow a track to Nether Row then continue along a minor road to a Tjunction (4 miles/6.5km from the start). Crossing straight over, a series of tracks and field paths lead back into Caldbeck.
Other options Stroll beside Cald Beck to Watersmeet then on to the pretty village of Hesket Newmarket. For a longer outing, climb beyond Potts Gill to the grassy summit of High Pike with its farreaching views north.
The scattered farms and cottages of Nether Row
GRADE: DISTANCE: 4.8 miles/7.7km CLIMB: 630ft/192m START/FINISH: Lake District National
Park Authority free car park in Caldbeck (GR: NY323398) MAPS: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL5
trees. In fact, the sudden appearance of the massive bulk of Skiddaw or shapely Grisedale Pike framed through a gap in the conifers adds to the walk’s appeal.
Route
SISKINS CAFÉ, WHINLATTER VISITOR CENTRE STARTING FROM THE Whinlatter Visitor Centre, located at just over 980ft (300m) above sea level, gives you a significant head-start on your climb up to the grassy summits of Lord’s Seat (1,811ft/552m) and Barf (1,519ft/463m). Most of the walk is on Forestry Commission land but don’t let that put you off; there are only a few places where the view is blocked by
38 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
There are many ways to reach Lord’s Seat using the tracks and trails through the Whinlatter forests; this takes the most direct, generally heading north from the visitor centre. It follows green-topped posts as far the bench at the Horsebox Crossroads before continuing roughly north on a wide forest road. On a sweeping left bend, head right along a narrow trail through trees then go left at a Tjunction to scale to Lord’s Seat. The far-reaching scene to the north includes the hills of southern Scotland. Head east to Barf then descend south-west, over Beckstones Gill, to re-enter the forest. Head left along a clear track, left at the first T-junction and right at the second, at post number nine. Bear left at post number 10 then left again beside Comb Gill. Now follow the red-topped posts back to the visitor centre.
Other options Waymarked trails through the Whinlatter forests provide a range of walks but, for the best outing above the treeline, climb Grisedale Pike via the ridge of Hobcarton End.
Looking towards Skiddaw from Lord’s Seat
enjoyed your time on the tops, just wait for the descent: a beautiful green lane windsdown through a series of fine, knobbly hills with views of the Lake District.
Route
THE OLD VILLAGE BAKERY, MELMERBY YOU’LL HARDLY SEE A SOUL as you wander the wide open spaces of the North Pennines above the gorgeous red sandstone village of Melmerby. Quiet lanes and a lovely, grassy track lead on to lonely moorland. And, if you
Take the minor road towards Ousby and Culgaith from the village centre, then go left along a dead-end lane. Where the lane swings right, keep straight on between the drystone walls. The track winds its way through woodland and continues up to Melmerby Low Scar on the open fell. Make your way to the cairn on top of Knapside Hill, then continue to the cairn on top of Dun Edge – at 2,326ft (709m), the highest point on Melmerby Fell. Head south-southeast to pick up a faint, grassy track through a gate – the route of the Maiden Way, one of the highest Roman roads in the country. Bearing southwest near Muska Hill, leave the Maiden Way to follow a green lane and then a rough track to a farm lane near Fellside. A series of field paths and tracks now
head north, through the farmyard at Gale Hall and then back to Melmerby.
Other options Wander the lonely lanes and rolling farmland around Melmerby, or stay up on the moorland and head south for a long walk to Cross Fell, the highest point in England outside of the Lake District. THE
OLD VILLAGE BAKERY
LOCATION: Melmerby CA10 1HE CONTACT: 01768 881811 OPEN: 9.30am–4pm in winter THE WALK: Melmerby Fell GRADE: DISTANCE: 8.8 miles/14.2km CLIMB: 2020ft/616m START/FINISH: Melmerby village centre
(GR: NY615373) MAPS: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000
Explorer OL31
On Melmerby Fell
Watermill Café Caldbeck Siskins Café Whinlatter Visitor Centre
Miller Howe, Grasmere
SISKINS CAFÉ
The Old Village Bakery, Melmerby
LOCATION: Whinlatter Visitor Centre,
near Braithwaite, CA12 5TW CONTACT: 017687 78410 OPEN: winter weekdays, 10am–4.30pm; winter weekends, 10am–5pm THE WALK: Lord’s Seat GRADE: DISTANCE: 4.9 miles/7.9km CLIMB: 1365ft/416m START/FINISH: Whinlatter Visitor
Centre (GR: NY208244) MAPS: Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL4
THE TEASHOP TRAIL
Wilf’s Café Staveley The Apple Pie, Ambleside
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 39
40 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
GEAR TEST: INSULATED JACKETS
Enjoy your fill of winter Feathers are flying in the world of cold weather insulation… Tom Hutton finds himself warming to some of the latest technological breakthroughs
Photo: Dave Willis
I
nsulated jackets are – at last earning their place in a hill walker’s rucksack. Only a few years ago, down fills were the domain of the mountaineer, while synthetic-insulated jackets seemed heavy and not particularly warm. Typically, insulation for the hill walker came from mid-layers rather than anything worn outside. Times have changed. Many stars seemed to have aligned and today’s down jackets are becoming water-resistant; synthetic jackets have come over all warm and light; and wind-proof garments, such as soft shells, have made it possible to do most of your walking with your waterproof stuffed firmly in your pack unless it’s really bucketing. We’ve looked at a right old mix of jackets on the following pages. A couple are waterproof; others use synthetic fillings, ideal for pulling on over a base layer or windshirt/softshell when resting or suddenly exposed to a cold wind. And some are down-filled. Not just any down, however: using a mix of water-resistant fabrics, water-resistant downs and even a blend of water-resistant down and synthetic insulation, the jackets here can be worn in the kind of conditions in which they wouldn’t have been taken out of the dry bags in just a few years ago. In the past, the rule was that you should plump for synthetics if you were going to get wet; if it was dry and cold, then down was the thing. Today those boundaries have blurred, and most of the down jackets here can deal with some moisture (albeit slight drizzle, wet snow or even perspiration). But if you’re going to get them properly wet, synthetic definitely remains the go-to insulating fill of choice. And even then, for maximum warmth and weather protection, you need a waterproof shell over the top.
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INSULATED JACKETS DIDRIKSONS CRUx £200 lwww.didricksons.com
Weight:910g Fabric: Dry10/synthetic fill Women s version :yes The Crux is one of two jackets tested that are fully waterproof as well as insulated. Ideal for extreme conditions such as Lakeland winters, or even a broader range of seasons for those that really feel the cold. They’re not, however, as versatile as a combination of hard shell and insulated jacket for those who run a bit hotter. It really is a big jacket, one you’re unlikely to want to carry in a pack.
And it’s seriously warm, with a 100gm synthetic insulation that made me boil when working hard. The hood’s superb, with a wired peak that protects the eyes well in real blizzard conditions. Ideal for bad days but perhaps too full-on for most.
ARc’TERYX ATOM AR hOODY £200 lwww.arcteryx.com
YETi PURiTY £345 lwww.yetiworld.com
SPRAYWAY GRENDEL £160 lwww.sprayway.com
Weight:465g Fabric: Gossamera/Coreloft Women s version: yes
Weight:245g Fabric: LightyGram/ 800+ fill down Women s version: yes (Desire)
Weight:570g Fabric: Gore WindStopper/Inso/Therm Women s version: yes (Vela)
Marginally lighter than the PHD jacket, the Yeti is both the lightest and the most expensive jacket in the test. In terms of features, it definitely sneaks it by a nose, with a drawcord hem and sophisticated baffle system – which seems to hold the down in position superbly – as well as zips on the pockets, one of which doubles as a stuff sack to further reduce the weight carried. In terms of warmth and weather resistance, I struggled to separate the two and would happily carry either as an emergency jacket, or purely to pull on for stops or on blowy tops in anything other than real rain. Overall, close to perfection: it just comes down to whether you can justify the extra cost.
If you’re like me and run hot, only reaching for your waterproof as a last resort, then the hybrid Grendel really does offer a good option. The outer is predominantly WindStopper soft shell fabric that keeps wind out as well as a fair bit of precipitation, combined with stretch, fleece panels that breathe well and make it easy to move in. Beneath all this is an 80gm fill of synthetic insulation that offers decent warmth. At 570g, it’s not light. But it does the job of a soft shell or wind shirt as well as an insulated jacket so – provided you’re wearing it rather than carrying it – this really isn’t a problem. A versatile jacket that’s great for colder times of year.
A classic synthetic insulated jacket, ideal for typical Lake District mountain conditions where it’s warm enough and sufficiently weather-resistant to cope with typical cold, windy and damp conditions, while offering notably more breathability than a combination of hard shell and mid-layer. It’s also light enough and compact enough to be carried at the top of a pack and donned on summits or when stopping to eat, drink or regroup. It has a great hood with a single-adjuster; and I liked the Lycra cuffs which are comfortable and dry quickly when wet. The 80gm synthetic insulation fill offered more warmth than I expected and the nylon shell, treated with a superb DWR, repelled light rain well. Very versatile.
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INSULATED JACKETS SNUGPAK SJ9 £160 lwww.snugpak.com
MAMMUT WhiTEhORN JAcKET MEN £155 lwww.mammut.ch
PhD ULTRA DOWN JACKET: K SERIES £55 lwww.phdesigns.co.uk
Weight:945g Fabric: Paratex Steelplate & Light/Softie Premier no Women s version:
Weight:660g Fabric: polyester/650+ fill down Women s version: yes (Black Fin)
Weight:250g Fabric: Ultrashell & Ultralight 10X/1000+ fill down Women s version: no
No insulation test would be complete without a jacket for those who really feel the cold, or are perhaps visiting somewhere that really is icy. The SJ9 is just that and, at £160, comes at a pretty decent price. But this is a jacket for wearing rather than carrying – think brassy Lakes mornings in the middle of winter, when you actually set off in your insulated jacket. At 945g, it’s just too heavy and bulky to keep in your pack, certainly for emergency or unexpected use. It has a well-padded, adjustable hood that really does keep the warmth in, and the cuffs have an effective internal gaiter and thumb loops, which also aid warmth. It copes well with a bit of moisture so would also work for skiing.
Versatile and stylish, the Whitehorn is a great all-rounder, and a superb entrylevel down jacket for walkers on a budget. But its warmth for weight is quite low compared to most of the down jackets tested here. The jacket’s most noticeable feature is that it’s reversible; making it look like two jackets in one. The business side has zip-accessed pockets while the more casual façade has poppers. But other than that, and the colour, there’s no obvious difference. It seemed to wetout quicker than most of the jackets tested – though the down didn’t seem to get wet – and the outer dried quickly. No hood but good elasticated cuffs and hem. Would make a decent mid-layer in real cold climes.
The Ultra Down Jacket sets it stall out very clearly to provide an incredible amount of insulation for as little weight as possible. It certainly achieves the warmth within the limitations of having no hood. And the weight is incredible: at 250g, you won’t mind carrying it purely for emergencies. let alone on days when you’re expecting to need insulation. I wondered whether the price of that featherweight warmth might be reduced water-resistance or a lack of toughness in the mountain environment, but so far it’s performed well on both fronts; with the ripstop nylon outer proving pretty rugged and the DWR doing a good job of keeping moisture away from the down. You’d want a shell over it in real rain but otherwise it’s pretty versatile.
BLAcK DiAMOND cOLD FORGE £260 lwww.blackdiamondequipment.com Weight:585g Fabric: Pertex Microlight & Quantum/PrimaLoft Gold Down Blend Women s version: yes The big issue with down has always been its lack of performance when wet. The Cold Forge is one of two jackets tested here that use Primaloft Gold Down Blend, an awardwinning, hi-tech fusion of DWR-treated synthetic insulation and down that overcomes many of those wet performance problems to produce a jacket that’s usable across a very wide spectrum of conditions. It
is noticeably heavier than the Sherpa Nangpala, making it warmer, but at the same time is less portable. The pockets are great and it has comfortable Lycra cuffs, a drawcord-adjustable hem and a brilliant, fully-adjustable hood that really traps the warmth when needed. A great compromise of weight, warmth and weather-resistance for more extreme temperatures or those who feel the cold.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 43
INSULATED JACKETS ShERPA NANGPALA hOODED DOWN JAcKET £250 lwww.sherpaadventuregear.co.uk Weight: 425g polyester ripstop/PrimaLoft Gold 750 Fabric: Women s version: yes The Nangpala is one of two jackets tested that feature the brand new PrimaLoft Gold Down Blend insulation. This model, however, has less insulation than Black Diamond’s Cold Forge, making it lighter and more packable but less capable in really cold conditions. It’s a well-featured jacket with good pockets inside and out and a decent hood with drawcord adjusters at the front but nothing for the volume, which means it won’t fit everyone. The elasticated cuffs worked for me and were easy to pull up if needed, and the drawcord hem worked well enough too. It looks great and the attention to detail is superb. A great compromise between warmth, weight and weather-resistance for those seeking a moderate amount of insulation.
PÁRAMO TORRES OVERLAYERiNG JAcKET LiGhT £150 lwww.paramo.co.uk Weight:620g Fabric: Nikwax Analogy Women s version: unisex The Torres is a pretty hefty jacket but is a very warm and waterproof jacket that’s perfectly suited to cold, wet days in the hills – the kind of adventures when you set off expecting to wear your jacket all day! At 600g and with quite a lot of bulk, it won’t be a totally welcome addition in your pack. On the plus side though, you won’t need to carry a waterproof as well. It’s made of Nikwax Analogy polyester fabric, which is superbly breathable and easy to clean. It’s got a lovely warm, adjustable hood; and three deep pockets – the internal one will take an Ordnance Survey map. Perfect for a winter’s worth of cold mountain walks where it’s a case of really wrap up, or just don’t go.
cRAGhOPPERS cOMPRESSLiTE PAcKAWAY hOODED JAcKET £60 lwww.craghoppers.com Weight:465g Fabric: polyester/Climaplus Women s version: yes The cheapest and least well-insulated jacket in the test, the Compresslite Packaway still does a decent job within its limitations. I found it useful as a jacket to carry in a pack and throw on over other layers as needed. And the fact that it’s not overly expensive made me a lot more relaxed when scraping it against rough
44 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
rock, especially useful when scrambling. The design is pretty basic but the hood’s quite warm, though it would be better with some means of adjustment. The pockets are on the small side, and the zip-pulls have no tags, which makes life difficult with cold or gloved hands. I also found the sleeves tight, making them difficult to pull up if I wanted to spill heat.
LOWE ALPiNE GLAciER POiNT JAcKET £120 lwww.lowalpine.com Weight:580g nylon ripstop/ Fabric: mono-polymer fibre Women s version: yes With 200gm of insulation in the body and 100gm in the sleeves, side and hood, the Glacier Point is a fairly bulky synthetic jacket that provides a surprising amount of warmth, even when it gets a little damp. It’s slightly heavier than the Arc’teryx Atom AR, which is a similar style of jacket; but at £120, it’s absolutely superb value and definitely one for those on a budget. The fit is quite long and roomy but elastication on the cuffs and hood, along with a drawcord hem, make it easy to trap warmth when required. It also has four good-sized, zip-accessed pockets. Best suited for carrying in your pack to throw on when you reach the summit or during cold tea breaks…
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 45
GEAR: FRESh PRODUcE
BERGhAUS FURNAcE hOODED JAcKET £200 l www.berghaus.com l 0844 811 1022
Light, packable and toasty warm, it’s hard to think of a more appropriate name for Berghaus’s 700-fill goose Hydrodown jacket. Its three-zone body mapped insulation incorporates microbaffles to insulate where needed. The water- and windresistant Pertex Microlight face fabric’s ripstop finish helps prolong the life of this jacket, which weighs just 386g despite packing in a fixed hood, two zipped hand-warmer pockets, stretch binding at the cuffs and drawcord hem adjustment.
LOWE ALPiNE MOUNTAiN cAP £30 l www.lowalpine.com l 01539 740840
Lowe Alpine’s classic Mountain Cap was introduced in 1979 and, despite years of development, is still recognisably the same hat with a waterproof/breathable shell, taped seams, warm fleece lining, stiffened peak and adjustable fit. You could say this is heading towards the best foul-weather protection, bar none.
46 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
YAKTRAX WALKER/PRO £19.99 l www.yaktrax.co.uk l0208 133 1177
Don’t be caught out this winter: Yaktrax Walkers are perfect for frozen paths when the terrain isn’t so severe that you need crampons. Handily sized to pop in your pack, they pull quickly and easily over any footwear, their hundreds of biting edges enabling you to walk upright despite the ice beneath your feet. Available in four sizes to suit various adult boots, there’s also an extra small offering for kids. (Note: these are not a substitute from crampons.)
PÁRAMO TORRES JAcKET £140 l www.páramo.co.uk l 01892 786444 Paramo’s new multi-activity jacket boasts a Nikwax windproof outer, breathable lining and synthetic fill, creating a high warmthfor-weight ratio. The water-repellent, fast-drying, moisture-repellent synthetic insulation is designed for extreme or prolonged cold, wet weather. It features an insulated fixed hood with single hand-pull adjuster, full front opening with two-way zip plus internal storm flap and chin guard. It has a simplified cuff design and silky lining for speedy overlayering, as well as a close-fitting hem, internal map pocket, and zipped, insulated hand-warming pockets.
ANATOM S2 STONE ROAD £90 l www.anatomfootwear.co.uk l 0800 0323 505 Anatom has incorporated the flex of the Q2 Light Hiking boot into its most rugged approach shoe yet. The Stone Road’s new outsole is made from super-grip, non-slip rubber. Other features include a light Phylon midsole, shock absorption and a reinforced arch bridge offering stability and comfort. Bellows lacing cinches over the foot to accommodate different shapes. The upper comprises nubuck leather and abrasion-resistant mesh, with a bioform heel cradle and toe protector. Sizing is men’s 41-47, women’s 37-42.
SPRAYWAY GRENDEL & VELA £160 l www.sprayway.com l 01753 497190
LOWE ALPiNE STORM GLOVE £30 l www.lowalpine.com l 0539 740840
Sprayway’s new Grendel (men’s) and Vela (women’s) jackets, made from Gore Windstopper with stretch side panels, are the perfect hybrid mountain jackets, suitable for use as mid-layers or stand-alone garments. Features include helmet-compatible hoods, drawcord adjustable hem and shaped fits.
The Storm is a well-specified glove at a realistic price. Features include a nylon outer with a waterproof and breathable Triplepoint insert, thin insulation on the gloveback, a fleecy lining, box finger construction and a “granite grip” palm. There are also mini link buckles and singlehanded cinch-on gauntlet.
EXPED Si cUShiON £20 l www.exped.com l 015394 24040 The perfect accompaniment for your lunch stop: keep your bum warm and dry on snow or wet grass with this cushion, which packs down small in your pack and inflates in seconds.
REVIEWER: MIKE COWTON January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 47
HIKE: NORTHERN FELLS
Exploring Blencathra
VITALS GRADE: TERRAIN: high-level route demanding
axe and crampons in winter conditions. Otherwise good paths and tracks with steep ascents and descents; some easy scrambling lower down; gill crossings on return – take care after rain DISTANCE: 7.5 miles/12km TIME: 4-4.5 hours CLIMB: 2500ft/762m START/FINISH: small car park (honesty box) at the head of Blease Road, Thelkeld (GR: NY318255) MAPS: Harvey Maps’ 1:25,000 Superwalker Lakeland North; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL5; OS 1:25,000 Landranger 90 TRANSPORT: regular Penrith–Keswick X5 bus stops at Threlkeld’s Horse and Farrier (0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.info) ACCOMMODATION: Brambles B&B, Thelkeld, near start (017687 79722, www.gothrelkeld.co.uk); youth hostel in Keswick (www.yha.org.uk, 0845 3719746); varied and plentiful in Keswick and Penrith REFRESHMENTS: Horse & Farrier, Thelkeld, near start; plentiful in Penrith and Keswick
48 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
Steve Goodier outlines a tough winter round of the Blencathra massif that avoids the nastier ridges
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iewed from the south, towering Blencathra shields Threlkeld village from cold north winds and forms one of Lakeland’s most impressive winter sights. At 2,847ft (868m), the mountain is renowned as tough and uncompromising. Even in summer, the ridges of Sharp Edge and Hall’s Fell have formidable reputations; in winter they’re often best-left for experienced snow and ice climbers to enjoy. Yet a magnificent high-level winter traverse of the stunning summit, one that avoids the narrower places, can still be enjoyed. I have climbed the mountain hundreds of times in all conditions but have only had the summit to myself once, during a mid-week February afternoon ten years ago. In a perfect freeze I sat on the summit with the snow-covered Lake District laid out below… pure magic!
cross a bridge and continue on the opposite bank. Eventually the gate ejects you on to the lower fellside. Turn left, ford the stream and follow the wall-side permissive path which rises to pass through a kissing gate.
1
Continue north-westerly then westerly, following the plateau edge down to curve right. Zigzag down a good path to a ridge, with occasional undulations, trending away from the edge as the ridge widens. As the path
START
Leave the car park past Underknott House, into a walled track ascending northwest. Follow the narrowing track with Blease Gill below-right, at one stage dropping to
2 0.5 MILE/0.8KM
Leave the permissive path to zigzag steeply up the fellside before following it as it contours west to intersect with the path rising from the Blencathra Centre. Turn right here to climb steeply, crossing a somewhat flatter area before the improving path bears you to the summit of Blease Fell. The main ridge ahead crosses a col then climbs steeply to Gategill Fell Top. Continue along the ridge beyond, dipping then curving right to Hall’s Fell Top, Blencathra’s true summit.
3 2.8 MILES/4.6KM
➜ 7.4 MILES/11.9KM ➜ 8 HOURS
Winter scene on Blencathra’s summit ridge
Scales fell, with a dusting
GriD reF sTarT/Finish: nY328047
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curves left, stay ahead at a junction, down Scales Fell. Descend to curve right as a gully develops ahead. Further down, curve back left to a crossroads.
4 4.5 MILES/7.3KM
Curve right, descending towards a wall. Pass through gorse, continuing with the wall below-left. Stay with the path through a junction, to curve left towards a gate. Go right at the next junction, by-passing the gate to pick up the wall again. Continue on the right of the wall. Curve right and descend by a fence into Sealey Beck. Carefully cross the beck and scramble up the rock beyond, which can be tricky. Continue right of a wall above the rock face. Fork right at a junction by section of fence. Climb to a wall corner, continuing on the right side of a wall. Rise up, then descend by the wall, leaving it to curve right to Doddick Gill.
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Ascending Blease Fell
5 5.8 MILES/9.4KM
Cross the gill, curving back left then right, down to rejoin the wall. Continue by the wall, crossing Gate Gill above a waterfall. Rise, through a gate, following the path (wall left) to cross a stile and pass through a gate. Descend then rise again, passing through a wall-corner gate. Beyond sheep folds, pick up your outbound route at Blease Gill, turning left through the gate back to the start.
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 49
HIKE: NORTHERN FELLS Looking back down Glenderaterra from the Skiddaw House track
Skiddaw sideways Skiddaw Forest, snow-covered, is about as wild and empty as it gets. Ronald Turnbull takes the sideways way up Skiddaw
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kiddaw Forest has no trees, apart from one clump of tatty pines at Skiddaw House. And it has not much of anything else: no cafés, no car parks, no cars, all because it has no roads. Just great snowslopes rising in all directions. For those who like their midwinters bleak, it’s the place to be. A miners’ path across the steep slope of Lonscale Fell; a wander past the shuttered Skiddaw House; then comes a wind-hardened snowslope where you might even need your crampons, and a pathless ridgeline guided by a frost-feathered fence. In a sudden change of atmosphere you hit Skiddaw’s busy summit, with its big wide path. Off it is easier. You can linger on Little Man as
Derwent Water seen from Little Man
the sun goes down, watch the pink light on the lake below, and not worry about the oncoming night. Well, we do assume you brought spare batteries for the torch…
the right, bending back left to the summit itself. Then turn left, gently downhill, to the car park in the col between Latrigg and the great slope of Skiddaw.
1START
2 1.8 MILES/2.8KM
You could start this route at Point 2, Latrigg car park – but it’s winter, and they don’t send the snowplough up there. So, from the edge of Keswick, Spooney Green Lane crosses the A66 bypass, then runs up into the woods. It bends left and slants uphill near the foot of the woods. When it emerges into open scrubland and crosses a stream, at an interpretation board turn up right on to the plateau of Latrigg. A big smooth path runs to
Cross the top of the car park to the wide path heading up Skiddaw. Before it starts its steep ascent, fork right on to another wide path that contours east around the base of the hill. After a gate, it bends left, a rocky shelf. This is quite exciting, unless it’s covered in lumps of ice, when it gets more exciting than that, as it crosses the steep east face of Lonscale Fell. The path joins the corner of a track, which runs ahead to Skiddaw House.
3 5.2 MILES/8.3KM
Keep ahead on the track, as it runs northwest to the top of Whitewater Dash waterfalls (with the wide valley running out ahead below you). Once the track has crossed the stream above the falls, head on uphill (southwest), soon with a fence on your left. There’s a small, rough path. You can divert 100 yards (91m) right for the clifftop cairn of Bakestall.
47.6 MILES/12.1KM
The fence bends left (south) across a level shoulder, then the slope rises again. Though not steep, I’ve found it wind-polished hard enough that I was glad of my crampons (there is the fence to hang on to, but that’s not very
50 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
➜ 13 MILES/21KM ➜ 8 HOURS dignified). This leads up to the broad shoulder of Skiddaw. Head south along the rounded crest, for a final rise to the cairn and viewpoint indicator (and lots of people) on Skiddaw summit.
Little Man to Isle of Man: sunset behind Grasmoor from Jenkin Hill with the Isle of Man on the skyline
5 8.8 MILES/14KM
Head south along the near-level ridge for half a mile (800m). Then bear down left (southeast) on a wide path with cairns to a col. As the main path bears left keep ahead along the col on a smaller path, for the short rise on to Skiddaw Little Man. A Wainwright summit in its own right, it’s quieter than Skiddaw and an even better viewpoint, with sunset colours reflecting in Derwent Water far below.
6 9.8 MILES/15.6KM
The path leads down south-east, over the very minor Skiddaw Lesser Man, to rejoin the wide main path. Turn right, downhill gently for three-quarters of a mile (1km), then more steeply on the slope above Latrigg. At the slope foot you keep ahead to Latrigg car park.
7 11.8 MILES/19KM
GriD reF sTarT/Finish: nY267241
From the car park’s bottom left corner, a wide path leads downhill, slanting around the side of Latrigg. Soon it becomes the path used on the upward route – though if you’re descending by moonlight or torchlight you’ll find the atmosphere now very different, with Keswick like a monster blob of luminous custard throwing its orange glow between the tree trunks.
VITALS GRADE: ( under snow ) TERRAIN: paths and tracks, small hill
path; big wide path for descent DISTANCE: 13 miles/21km TIME: 8 hours CLIMB: 3600ft/1100m START/FINISH: Brundholme Road, Keswick (GR: NY267241); street parking at start, handy car park at sports ground Crosthwaite Road south of the A66 roundabout (NY264240) MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker Lakeland North; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL4; OS 1:50,000 Landranger 90 TRANSPORT: Keswick has hourly buses X4/X5 to Penrith, and less frequent ones 554 to Carlisle (0871 200 22 33, www.travelinenortheast.info) ACCOMMODATION: all-year youth hostel and lots of other accommodation in Keswick (Skiddaw House hostel closes Nov–Feb) REFRESHMENTS: Keswick has almost as many pubs as gear shops
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January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 51
52 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
STROLL: FAR EASTERN FELLS
➜ 4 MILES/6.4KM ➜ 2-2.5 HOURS
Silver Crag
Vivienne Crow takes a stroll beside Ullswater and climbs a juniper-topped crag for breathtaking views
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itting close to the foot of Place Fell, Silver Crag (889ft/271m) is a great place from which to gaze out over Ullswater to the mountains beyond Glenridding. It is reached via a clear valley path close to the lakeshore followed by a short climb. The return route uses a slightly higher, parallel path. The small gain in altitude makes all the difference, turning what had been good views up until now into breathtaking panoramas.
1START
Take the track beside the George Starkey Hut in Patterdale, signed for Howtown.
VITALS GRADE: TERRAIN: good valley tracks and paths;
short climb on less well walked trail DISTANCE: 4 miles/6.4km TIME: 2-2.25 hours CLIMB: 805ft/245m START/FINISH: George Starkey Hut, Patterdale (NY394160). There is room for a few cars to park in front of the building. Alternatively, the pay-and-display car park is 200 yards (180m) to the south-east MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000 Superwalker Lakeland East; Harveys’ BMC Lake District British Mountain Map; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL5; OS 1:50,000 Landranger 90 TRANSPORT: 508 (Traveline, 0871 200 2233, www.traveline.info) REFRESHMENTS: the White Lion and Patterdale Hotel, both in Patterdale; Side Farm café opens in the spring ) ACCOMMODATION B&Bs and hostel in Patterdale; campsite at Side Farm
2 0.3 MILES/0.5KM
Beyond the yard at Side Farm, turn left around the back of the buildings. The track quickly goes through a gate, but don’t be tempted by any of the other gates to the left as you make your way towards Silver Point. Up to your right are the craggy slopes of Place Fell. Eventually, the wall on the left swings away and you can see across Ullswater to Glencoyne Park. The path drops slightly as it skirts the lakeside. Up to the right are the slopes of Silver Crag, thickly cloaked in juniper. Before long, you reach a high point as the path swings slightly right – and you can see across to Gowbarrow.
Looking across Ullswater to Glenridding
5 3.5 MILES/5.6KM
The path forks again above some cottages. Turn right and go through the large gate to access a lane. Turn right along a rough farm track. Reaching Side Farm, turn left between the buildings and retrace your steps to the start.
GriD reF sTarT/Finish: nY394160
31.8 MILES/2.9KM
In a short while, take the pitched path up to the right. This climbs at a moderate angle to a secret valley between Silver Crag on your right and Birk Fell on your left. In summer, this is a sylvan gap in the mountains but, come winter, bitingly cold winds cut through here, making it feel quite wild.
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4 2 MILES/3.2KM
To reach the top of Silver Crag, take a faint trail on the right as you near the southern end of this valley. When this splits, bear right to climb quickly to the summit. A narrow path fights its way through the juniper on the top but it’s worth the effort: there are great views across to the Helvellyn range and St Sunday Crag. Retrace your steps to the little valley and turn right. Follow the grassy path traversing the fellside. After a green bench, this drops slightly, passing some dramatic quarry remains on the way. At the next set of workings, the path forks. Take either branch, although the one to the left is easier.
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January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 53
54 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
HIKE: EASTERN FELLS
Birkhouse Moor & Red Tarn
Heading towards Red Tarn
Gary Richardson looks for Alpine winter splendour above Glenridding while avoiding the iced ridges
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elvellyn attracts hundreds of winter walkers and climbers wanting to challenge themselves along Striding and Swirrall Edges, or the fell’s steep craggy east face. This walk follows in their footsteps as far as the start of Striding Edge and gives you a flavour of what it’s like to be high in the mountains in winter without attempting the technical routes.
1START
From the car park cross Glenridding Beck and follow the lane alongside the south of the beck, passing shops and houses as it heads out of the village. You get great views of Birkhouse Moor’s north-east face as you approach it, but majestic Helvellyn is hidden from view. When the path splits keep right, following the beck,
to pass Gillside campsite. At the site entrance turn left on take the track leading up to the intake wall.
2 0.75 MILE/1.2KM
Ignore the path leading off to the right along the leat, and take the steep stonepitched path up by Mires Beck. It is steep in places, offering plenty of excuses to pause and admire the views behind of Glenridding Dodd and Ullswater, which improve as height is gained. On reaching the wall rising from Lanty’s Tarn the path turns right, and follows the wall for a short way before veering off to the right again, up towards Birkhouse Moor. The climbing eases when a small col is reached where, suddenly, the east face of Helvellyn is revealed. A small cairn a few hundred metres
Above, Catstycam from the footbridge over Glenridding Beck at Greenside. Below, walkers on Striding Edge seen from Red Tarn
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 55
➜ 6.25 MILES/10KM ➜ 4 HOURS off to the right offers great views of Ullswater, and is well-worth a visit.
3 2 MILES/3.2KM
Birkhouse Moor’s high point can be found alongside the wall that heads for Holein-the-Wall. The easy walk follows the wall most of the way, enjoying impressive views of Helvellyn and down into the Grisedale valley. Eventually the wall makes a sharp left turn where the ground starts to rise and becomes rockier: this is the Hole-in-the-Wall, the start of the route along Striding Edge.
4 2.5 MILES/4KM
Our route, however, veers away to make a bee-line for Red Tarn, contouring around the slopes of Striding Edge. The scenery is breathtaking: Helvellyn, its ridges and Catsycam forming the almost perfect mountain corrie. The tarn is a great place for lunch and to watch the walkers and climbers on the mountain.
Above, Red Tarn with Helvellyn in the background. Below, heading for the Hole-in-the-Wall
53 MILES/4.8KM
The return route to Glenridding follows Red Tarn Beck:, there’s a good graded path all the way down to Greenside mines and the footbridge over Glenridding Beck. There are great views of the Dodds range and into Kepple Cove from the descent.
6 4.5 miles/7.2KM
After crossing a footbridge the path heads down through the old mine workings at Greenside, where the buildings now have a variety of uses, including ski club base, outdoor centre, youth hostel and bunkhouse. Follow the access road all the way back to Glenridding: keep left when the roads forks after Rake Cottages, to pass the Travellers Rest pub as you walk back into Glenridding.
VITALS
GriD reF sTarT/Finish: nY386169
GRADE: TERRAIN: good paths and tracks
throughout DISTANCE: 6.25 miles/10km TIME: 4 hours CLIMB: 2000ft/600m START/FINISH: Glenridding car park (pay
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56 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
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and display) (GR: NY386169) MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000
Superwalker Lakeland East; Harveys’ 1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain Map; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL5; OS 1:50,000 Landranger 90 TRANSPORT: 508 bus from Penrith (Traveline, 0871 200 22 33, www.traveline.info) ACCOMMODATION: camping, hotels, inns, hostels and B&Bs in and around Glenridding and Patterdale
January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 57
RAMBLE: EDEN VALLEY GriD reF sTarT: nY504463/Finish: nY46634546
Armathwaite to Wetheral
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Join Vivienne Crow on a linear walk beside the River Eden 6 5
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his route links a pair of sleepy Eden Valley villages via a riverside walk. The route passes in and out of pretty woodland, across meadows and through an attractive gorge to reach Wetheral, visiting some mysterious caves cut into the red sandstone cliffs along the way. Starting from Armathwaite – on the Settle to Carlisle line – it uses two of the railways radiating out from Carlisle. From Wetheral, walkers return to Carlisle on the Newcastle line.
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1START
From the Carlisle-bound platform of Armathwaite station, cross the car park and turn right along the road. Take the surfaced track on the right – just before the school. This goes over to grass before swinging left. Follow the fence on your right to reach a mast. Now turn right, through a gate and under the railway.
2 0.8 MILES/1.3KM
On reaching the road, turn left and walk along the asphalt for 750 yards (685m).
58 Lakeland Walker January–February 2015
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1
➜ 8.2 MILES/13.2KM ➜ 4-4.5 HOURS
The railway viaduct over the River Eden at Wetheral, above. Right, The steps down to St Constantine's Cells hewn from the red sandstone cliffs in Wetheral Woods Passing Drybeck Viaduct, turn right, signed for Drybeck. Follow this lane round to the left beyond Drybeck Farm.
31.9 MILES/3.1KM
When the lane starts climbing away from the river, take the riverside path – signed for Wetheral – through the trees but ignore the steps in a short while. Watch for newly exposed sections of red sandstone cliff along this section; this distinctive rock, used to build churches, castles, farms and villages in the Eden Valley, was created during desert conditions about 250 million years ago, when Britain lay just north of the equator. A kissing-gate leads from the woods into a meadow. Keep close to the fence on the right until you reach a small, wooden gate. Don’t go through this; instead, turn left. At the top of the steep embankment, climb the stile and turn right, now walking along the top of the wooded slope. After two more stiles, bear halfleft to drop to a waymarker post at the end of a line of trees. Cross the muddy depression, then turn right at the top of the slope. Keep close to the fenced woodland until, about 100 yards (90m) after the next stile, you see a large wooden gate on the right. Go through and descend the path slanting right.
4 3.3 MILES/5.3KM
Turn left along the riverside path. Soon after the next stile, the narrow path becomes a wider, sometimes muddy track. Keep to this as it climbs through the woods. Continue on the riverside path beyond a green hut. The path briefly climbs, traversing the steep embankment. When it drops back to river level, don’t be tempted to ford the channel on the right; simply cross the track to pick up a narrow
trail through the trees. Leaving the woods, keep to the edge of the next two fields, carefully crossing an awkward gully between them.
5 5.3 MILES/8.5KM
After another long stretch of woodland path, you emerge in a meadow. Keep close to the riverbank. Cross the stile in the far corner and bear right through the trees. On reaching a memorial stone, bear right to descend some steps. Swing left along the riverbank. After a sandy stretch, yellow waymarkers lead to a narrow trail through the trees opposite Coathouse Island. Before drawing level with the north-west end of the island, the path swings away from the river and climbs.
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6.2 MILES/10KM
Cross the stile in the top fence. Swing half-right to a stile next to a large gate. Once over this, walk down the track. This ends at a pair of buildings but the riverside path continues.
7 7.2 MILES/11.6KM
About 600 yards (550m) after entering the National Trust’s Wetheral Woods, watch for an easy-to-miss set of steps to the right. Descend these and turn right for a quick detour to St Constantine’s Cells, or turn left to continue on the main route. St Constantine’s Cells are reputed to have been used by either a sixth-century prince or a tenth-century king as a hermitage, although there is no evidence to suggest that anyone ever lived in them. It is more likely they were used for storage by the monks of nearby Wetheral Priory, possibly as a place to hide their valuables during crossborder raids.
Just after a path comes in from the left, bear right at a fork. The path drops to the River Eden’s sandy shores opposite Corby Castle. Continue downstream to a sculpted stone bench, the Flight of Fancy, one of the Eden Benchmarks sculptures, commissioned to celebrate the new millennium.
8 7.8 MILES/12.6KM
Turn left after the bench, abandoning the River Eden. Nearing the top of the slope, keep Wetheral’s village green on your left. Go right at the T-junction and immediately take the lane on the right and descend to Wetheral station.
VITALS GRADE: TERRAIN: farm and woodland paths,
muddy in places; some road walking; gently undulating DISTANCE: 8.2 miles/13.2km TIME: 4-4.5 hours CLIMB: 12905ft/393m START: Armathwaite Railway Station (GR: NY504463) FINISH: Wetheral Railway Station (GR NY466546) MAPS: Harvey Maps’ 1:40,000 Long Distance Route map Settle to Carlisle Way; Ordnance Survey 1:25,000 Explorer OL5 and OL315 (both required); Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger 86 TRANSPORT: linear route using both the Carlisle-to-Newcastle railway line and the Settle line REFRESHMENTS: Duke’s Head Hotel, Armathwaite; Crown Hotel, Wetheral ACCOMMODATION: B&Bs in Armathwaite and Wetheral
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CLASSIFIEDS Cumbria - Accommodation
Accommodation AMBLESIDE AREA Attractive timber lodges in woodland setting. No pets, Tel:[015394]365836 BORROWDALE, GRANGE, Holiday bungalow sleeping 4. Glorious views, private parking, Tel(017687)77231 COCKERMOUTH (6 MILES) The Manor House Guest House - spacious ensuite rooms. Extensive grounds. Open views. Peaceful. Pets welcome. N/S. From £33pppn. Tel:[01697]322420 www.themanorhouse.net
KESWICK, Beautiful 3* one bedroomed apartment overlooking river/park. Residential parking. WiFi. No smoking/pets. Tel:(01204)493138 Mobile:(07875)093044 Email:johnlaura3@tiscali.co.uk NR KENDAL - 3 LOVELY STATIC CARAVANS including Luxury caravan with CH. Fully equipped. Stunning views. Lovely rural setting. Sleeps 4. No pets, Tel:[01539]560351 www.caravanslakedistrict.co.uk LANGDALE 3 Cottages sleeping 2-4 & C17 cottage sleeping 6. ETC 3/4 star. WiFi. All superbly situated near Langdale Pikes. Tel:[01539]437222 www.longhousecottages.co.uk
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CLASSIFIEDS Cumbria - Accommodation
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www.lakeland-walker.com January–February 2015 Lakeland Walker 61
LAKELAND LINESCAPES: by MARK RICHARDS
Crag Fell
ExCLUSIVE PRINT OF FE
W
alkers on Wainwright’s Coast to Coast Walk have but a passing acquaintance with Crag Fell, as they stumble over Robin Hood’s Chair at the base of Anglers’ Crag at the start of their wonderful march along the length of wild Ennerdale. However, viewed from across Ennerdale Water, on the approach to the Forestry Commission’s Bowness Knott car park, the fell is seen in all its craggy glory, in beautiful harmony with a lovely lake. The northern façade, exhibited on this Linescape, correctly suggests fun fellwalking. All the best ascents begin from
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Bleach Green, which is accessed from Ennerdale Bridge. The most popular route leads up via Crag Farm through the conifer plantation, fording Ben Gill to trace the scarp edge of Rivelin Crag. But far more excitement is to be had by heading for the Anglers’ Crag saddle, switching up right to clamber behind the magnificent Cragfell Pinnacles. Another route veers east from the saddle to discover the old iron mines above Red Beck, almost lost among the rank heather. MR
R
See the entire series of exclusive Lakeland Walke r Linescapes at Mark’s onlin e gallery at www.linescapeartist.co m. To purchase this Linescap e as an individually signed, numbered and mounted A4 print, reprod uced on fine cartridge paper, contact Mark at fel lranger1@gmail.com. Prints cost £30 (includin g p&p) and are exclusive to readers of Lakeland Wa lker. Mark Richards’ love of pen drawing reveals a natura l connection with literary and artistic expression fro m another age. His earliest guidebooks were handcr afted, a la Alfred Wainwright, tho ugh his influences range even further back in time. Hav ing completed his series of Cicerone-published Lak eland Fellranger guides, he has delved into his tin of cro w quill nibs and bottle of Indian ink to record the iconic lan dscapes that inspire reader s of Lakeland Walker.
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