no. 19 sharing priceless moments around the table
The ripening of cheeses pages 4 and 5
Recipes pages 6, 9, 10, 11 12, 13 and 15
Crystals in aged cheeses page 14
Fall 2010
In this issue, you will find information about and the Chef’s recipes using these products.
Camembert Mme Clément
Bûchette l’Originale
Raclette Damafro
Cœur de Brie
Raclette de chèvre
Gouda
Garlic and Fine Herbs Le Crémeux PP41158033
Contents
Fall 2010 Issue no. 19
Recipes Mme Clément Prosciutto Rolls
6
Raviolis in orange-flavored Damafro Goat Cheese Sauce
9
Leek & Damafro Raclette Quiche
10
Strawberry & Basil Cœur de Brie Croissants
11
Damafro Cheese Topped French Onion Soup with a dash of Port
12
The Quick and Easy Croque-Monsieur by Damafro. The prince of grilled cheeses
13
Creamy Chicken Vol-au-vent à la Damafro
15
Articles Crystals in aged cheeses
4-5
Rebate coupons
7-8
Good to know
Publisher: Damafro Design and production: Damafro Recipe created by: Christian Lévêque Legal deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec and Library and Archives Canada, 2009 La Grande Famille (The Grand Family) magazine is published by Damafro. Any reproduction in part or as a whole without the written permission of Damafro is prohibited. the publisher cannot be held liable for any error or negligence that occurs in using the recipes nor for any action taken as a result of the information contained herein. Postal Convention-publications no. 41158033. Return any correspondence undeliverable in Canada to: Damafro Inc. 54, rue Principale, Saint-Damase, Québec J0H 1J0. 1 800 363 2017
2 – The Grand Family
14
Editorial
Inspiration... We are always looking to keep our creative spirit fired up as we go about our day-to-day routine as cheese maker. So it goes without saying that inspiration is the key word as we undertake to prepare, write and publish this magazine. Though unassuming, The Grand Family is for us an important link to you, a means to remain connected with you. This season, we have decided to inspire YOU, so we enlisted the cooperation of Nicolas Moreau. We asked him to share with you his simple meal ideas and his wonderful reinterpretations of great classics in cuisine where cheese is the “inspired” touch. But that is not all: the recipes will also be available as videos on our Web site thegrandfamily.ca.
Good to know You probably noticed the new packaging for Le P’tit Connaisseur brie (175g). But from now on, keep an eye for his new cousin, Le P’tit Connaisseur camembert (135g). Two products made the “traditional” way. Why is that important? You get a mouth‑filling flavourful cheese with real character and a rich texture that matures from firm to melting.
Have a great fall season!
Recipes, hints and tips, backgrounders...
Do you like what you are reading in this magazine? Subscribe for free at www.thegrandfamily.ca, the Web site of your fine cheesemaker. Or fill out this form and mail it to Damafro 54, rue Principale, Saint-Damase (Québec) J0H 1J0
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Fall 2010 – 3
The ripening of cheeses When making cheese, ripening — the maturing period during which the cheese acquires its aromas, flavours and texture — is probably the most important if not the most critical of all phases, and certainly the one where the cheese maker must use all his senses.
Ripening is the final phase in cheese making. A cheese may be ripened from a few days or weeks, as with soft cheeses, up to several years for some firm cheeses. But it is not during a lengthy ripening that you will see the most spectacular changes in a maturing cheese. Cheese that need to be ripened for only a short period usually have a higher moisture content, and that moisture provides the ideal environment for starter cultures or ferments to grow and develop quickly, especially on the rind. Camembert cheeses are the perfect example of this quick action of the ferments, undergoing a rapid and extensive, and especially noticeable change: the rind takes on its typical velvety look, and inside, the body takes on a melting texture.
4 – The Grand Family
Cheeses with a lengthy ripening phase have a much lower moisture content, and so provide an environment that does not promote rapid ferment development. As a result, these cheeses tend to mature more slowly, more smoothly. A good example of a slow maturing cheese is the gouda, that changes far less conspicuously and dramatically than a bloomy-rind Camembert. But what about the cheese maker? How instrumental is he in this process? He carefully handles his cheeses, places them in precisely the right conditions to encourage their development exactly the way he wants it. His input into the maturing of the cheese has everything to do with his mastery, his control over the ferments’ rate and type of development, either on the surface of or deep within the cheese.
Here is a quick overview of the 3 main ripening types, and of 3 terms you will often see on product labels.
Camembert Madame Clément
Le P’tit St-Damase
Gouda
Bloomy rind cheese:
Washed rind cheese:
Interior ripened cheese:
also called soft-ripened cheese, and sometimes flowery-rind cheese. To obtain that velvety rind, we expose the milk and/ or the surface of the cheese to very special types of ferments to promote the formation of a downy rind. Those ferments are usually moulds, but there are several other types of flora, such as fungi and yeasts. In traditional cheese-making methods, such as the one used to make the Madame Clément Camembert, we select several “surface ferments” to achieve the typical and complex flavours sought in this type of cheese.
to make cheeses of the washed‑rind variety, we choose to stimulate the growth of “red” flora, so called for an obvious reason: it really has an orangey red hue. This very specific flora is the only one that will grow well in conditions deemed “extreme” for ferments, i.e. an environment with a high content of salt, wine, alcohol, etc. So by rubbing the surface of the cheese with salty water, either alone or with alcohol (such as spirit pomace, cider, beer), we discourage the growth of other flora, leaving the door open for the red ferment to take over and breaking down milk ingredients (especially milk proteins). The result is a cheese with characteristically pronounced flavours and distinct leathery and earthy, almost pungent aromas.
to describe this complex and wide-ranging group of cheeses, it is best to give you an overall account, because we could go forever.
We find the ripening process quite a fascinating world. It is a world where our know-how and senses as cheese maker are put to full use. We hope we have made it just as fascinating for you with this quick insight.
It could be said of all cheeses that they are Interior ripened, because milk does contain ferments and enzymes that contribute to curd formation and ripening. Nevertheless, the term “Interior ripened” is used as opposed to “surface ripened” and specifically describes a particular way cheese matures. In surface ripening, e.g. bloomy rind cheeses and washed rind cheeses covered with very active quick acting ferments, the cheese ripens from the outside in. In interior ripening, the ripening process begins and continues to evolve throughout the cheese. This maturing process is slower, more “delicate”, and does not change the cheese’s appearance and consistency as drastically. It promotes suppleness and softness as the cheese matures and encourages the development of more a delicate, fruity taste.
Fall 2010 – 5
Recipe 1
Mme Clément Prosciutto Rolls
Degree of difficulty: easy Servings: 4 Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 5 minutes
Camembert Mme Clément A real Camembert made the traditional way since 1924. Ingredients
Preparation
• 6 slices of prosciutto ham, cut across in half • 200 g or 1 Mme Clément Camembert by Damafro • 4 tbsp. or 60 g hazelnuts or walnuts • 12 leaves fresh basil, cut in strips • 3 tbsp. 15% cooking cream
1• L ay cut prosciutto ham slices on a board.
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
2• P ut other four ingredients in the food processor, and process using a few consecutive pulse actions until mixture is well blended. 3• P ut about 2 tbsp. of filling at one end of each prosciutto ham slice. 4• R oll ham slices tightly to trap mixture inside. Secure with a toothpick. 5• R oast on the BBQ or in a non-stick pan over high heat for about 1 minute per side. Note from Nicolas Use your inner chef’s creativity to invent your own fillings and enjoy! Best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
6 – The Grand Family
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Garlic and Fine Herbs Le Crémeux
La Bûchette l’Originale
Camembert Mme Clément
Cœur de Brie 150g
Raclette Tranchée and Raclette de Chèvre
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To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2011
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2011
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2011
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2011
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2011
Recipe 2
Raviolis in orange‑flavored Damafro Goat Cheese Sauce
Degree of difficulty: very easy Servings: 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes
Bûchette l’Originale A delicately chalky heart with a hint of hazelnut.
Ingredients
Preparation
• 1 bag of raviolis, cooked according to package directions • 3 tbsp. butter • 2 green onion stems, chopped • Zest from ½ orange • Juice from 1 orange • 2 tbsp. honey or real maple syrup • 1-½ cup of 15% cooking cream • 125 g or 1 goat milk Bûchette by Damafro • Salt and pepper to taste
1• I n a skillet over medium heat, melt butter then add green onion and orange zest, and cook a few minutes until lightly colored.
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
2• A dd juice from the freshly pressed orange in the skillet and let reduce for about 1 minute. 3• A dd honey, cream, the goat milk Bûchette by Damafro; salt and pepper. 4• Stir to mix and let reduce until creamy and smooth. 5• Add cooked raviolis, mix well, and serve. Note from Nicolas This easy-to-cook and very tasty recipe will delight family and friends. And for a more hearty meal, you can add any leftover turkey, ham, or chicken you have. Bon appétit! Best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas Fall 2010 – 9
Recipe 3
Leek & Damafro Raclette Quiche
Degree of difficulty: very easy Servings: 6 Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes
Raclette Damafro A classic cheese in a convenient package. Its rich aromas and textures make it the ideal choice for your au gratin dishes and sandwiches.
Ingredients
Preparation
• 2 pie shells • 5 large eggs • 2 cups or 500 ml milk or 15% cooking cream • 1 pinch Cayenne pepper • 120 g or 1 package of Raclette cheese by Damafro • ½ lb or 125 g ham, finely diced • 1 cup or 250 g leeks, chopped, blanched in boiling water for 5 minutes • Salt and pepper to taste
1• I n a mixing bowl, with a fork, lightly beat eggs, cream, ham, leeks, salt and pepper.
10 – The Grand Family
Retrouver cette recette de Nicolas en vidéo sur la grandefamille.ca
2• F ill pie shells to ¾ full with the egg mixture, and cover with slices of goat cheese Raclette by Damafro. 3• Cook 20 to 30 minutes in preheated 375 °F oven. Note from Nicolas Don’t beat the eggs too much. If you do, the mixture will puff up and may spill over the sides of the dish. Bon appétit! Best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
Recipe 4
Strawberry & Basil Cœur de Brie Croissants
Degree of difficulty: very easy Servings: 4 Preparation time: 5 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes
Cœur de Brie Retrouver cette recette de Nicolas en vidéo sur la grandefamille.ca
The best of a runny Brie. A flavorful and tender processed cheese perfect for cooking or as a spread.
Ingredients
Preparation
• 4 croissants, sliced open • 150 g or 1 package Cœur de Brie cheese by Damafro • ¼ cup strawberry jam • 2 eggs • ½ cup milk • 8 fresh basil leaves, chopped • Salt and pepper to taste
1• M ix together cheese, jam, and basil; spread a thick layer of the cheese mixture on each of the croissant halves, and close with other half. 2• Beat eggs and milk together. Salt and pepper to taste. 3• D ip the croissants in the egg-milk mixture and put on lightly buttered cookie sheet. Cook for 15 minutes in preheated 375°F oven.
Fall 2010 – 11
Recipe 5
Damafro Cheese Topped French Onion Soup with a dash of Port Degree of difficulty: easy Servings: 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes
Raclette de chèvre An original: sliced Raclette cheese made from goat milk.
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
Ingredients
Preparation
• 4 tbsp. butter • 500 g (2 large) white onion, thinly sliced • 6 garlic cloves, minced • 1 tbsp. concentrated chicken bouillon (Bovril type) • 1 tbsp. real maple syrup • 2 tbsp. all purpose flour • 1 liter store-bought chicken broth • Salt and pepper to taste • ½ cup or 125 ml port or Cinzano • 4 slices of bread, toasted • 120 g or 1 package of goat cheese Raclette by Damafro
1• I n a saucepan over medium-low heat, melt butter, add sliced onion, stir, and cook slowly uncovered for about 15 minutes, letting the water contained in the onion evaporate, stirring occasionally. Add garlic, concentrated chicken bouillon, maple syrup, and flour. Mix well.
12 – The Grand Family
2• A dd chicken broth slowly, stirring constantly. Bring to a boil, lower heat, and let simmer covered for 20 to 30 minutes. 3• Salt and pepper to taste. 4• Add port. Stir. 5• P our into onion soup bowls. Put a slice of bread over the soup and top with 2 layers of goat cheese Raclette by Damafro. 6• Put bowls under the broil until cheese is golden and melted.
Recipe 6
The Quick and Easy Croque-Monsieur by Damafro The prince of grilled cheeses Degree of difficulty: very easy Servings: 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes
Gouda The promise of well-rounded flavor and milky aroma. It quickly melts in your mouth and has a delicate fruity finish without any hint of acidity or bitterness
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
Ingredients
Preparation
• 1 baguette bread, cut in half lengthwise • 2 green onions, coarsely chopped • 4 tbsp. spinach dip • 125 g or 1 package of La Bûchette goat cheese by Damafro • 150 g or 1 package of Gouda sliced cheese by Damafro • 100 g Nordic shrimp • Salt and pepper to taste
1• S coop out bread crumbs from the baguette halves with a spoon. Put crumbs in the food processor along with the chopped green onion, dip, Damafro Bûchette, salt and pepper. 2• Mix a few minutes until texture is creamy. 3• Put into a mixing bowl. Delicately incorporate shrimp. 4• F ill the scooped out baguette with mixture. Top with slices of Damafro Gouda. 5• Cook 15 minutes in a preheated 375 °F oven. Note from Nicolas This simple “teen-proof” recipe will be a sure hit. Best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
Fall 2010 – 13
Crystals in aged cheeses When talking about crystals in aged cheeses, real parmesan (Parmigiano Reggiano) usually comes to mind. Yet these fine crystals sought by cheese enthusiasts can be found in all aged firm chesses, be it cheddar, Gruyère or Emmenthal. Crystals are the sign of a long, slow, perfectly balanced ripening process. Though often called salt crystals, they are anything but salt. They are actually a protein in the cheese that has turned into crystalline particles. The crystals have no particular taste, but that is not their appeal: they bring the crunchy texture connoisseurs enjoy so much and show the cheese has aged and matured well and the ripening process has been well handled. In Québec, few cheeses feature these crystals, but you will find them in old cheddars (aged 2 years or more) and in Chèvre Noir, a parmesan type goat cheese, aged over a year.
www.thegrandfamily.ca
Recipe 7
Creamy Chicken Vol‑au-vent à la Damafro Degree of difficulty: easy Servings: 4 Preparation time: 20 minutes Cooking time: 30 minutes
Garlic and Fine Herbs Le Crémeux Fresh cheese enriched with cream. A tender texture, delicately whipped, with both a rich and buttery quality, yet very fresh and light. Ingredients
Preparation
• 1 cup chicken broth • 1 cup carrots, peeled and diced • 1 lb (450 g) boneless trimmed chicken thighs, cut into bite‑sized chunks • 1 cup frozen small green peas • 1 red bell pepper, diced • 4 vol-au-vent pastry shells (large)
1• I n a saucepan, pour chicken broth and bring to a boil.
Béchamel Sauce with Crémeux Garlic and Fine herbs by Damafro
5• I n saucepan over medium heat, melt butter. Sprinkle flour, mixing constantly with a whisk until it forms a soft mass with the melted butter.
• • • •
tbsp. (75 g) butter 5 5 tbsp. (75 g) flour 4 cups cold milk 200 g or 2 packages Le Crémeux Garlic and Fine herbs cheese by Damafro • Salt and pepper to taste
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
2• A dd carrots, cover and cook 5 minutes. 3• L ower heat to medium and add chicken, peas and bell peppers; cover and continue cooking about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and set aside. 4• W arm vol-au-vent pastry shells about 10 minutes in a 350°F oven. Set aside.
6• P our milk very slowly, mixing it in progressively with the whisk, and continue stirring until the mixture forms a smooth, thick béchamel sauce. 7• A dd the Le Crémeux Garlic and Fine herbs cheese, salt and pepper to taste, and mix well. 8• M ix the béchamel on the chicken and vegetables, and spoon on the pastry shells. Note by Nicolas This reinvented vol-au-vent recipe is my mother-in-law’s favorite. I think that says it all. Bon appétit! Best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas Fall 2010 – 15
Chefs are inspired by Damafro cheeses!
Helena Loureiro Chef, Portus Calle
Marc-André Jetté Chef, Les 400 Coups
Richard Bastien Chef, Leméac
Come see what www.thegrandfamily.ca is all about.