no 24 sharing priceless moments around the table
Are cheese affected by the seasons? pages 4 and 5
Did you know? page 5
Recipes pages 6, 9, 12, 13, 14 and15
Summer
2012
In this issue, you will find information about and the Chef’s recipes using these products.
Goat Petit Gouda
P’tit Saint-Damase
Italian Feta’Salad
Plain Feta’Salad
Brie Madame Clément
Provençale Feta’Salad PP41158033
Contents
Summer 2012 no 24
Recipes Portobello and Goat Petit Gouda Burgers
6
BBQed Saint-Damase Fondue
9
Grilled Koftas Patties with DAMAFRO plain FETA’SALAD 12 Green bean, beet and fennel Italian FETA’SALAD with raspberry dressing
13
Madame Clément Brie and Sunny Salsa Super Burgers
14
Cool Summer Smoked Salmon Verrine, with Mandarin Oranges and Provençale FETA’SALAD
15
Articles Are cheese affected by the seasons?
4-5
Did you know?
5
Rebate coupons
7-8
The Cheesemaker Answers
10
Publisher: Damafro Design and production: Damafro Recipe created by: Nicolas Moreau Legal deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec and Library and Archives Canada, 2012 La Grande Famille (The Grand Family) magazine is published by Damafro. Any reproduction in part or C25 as a whole without the written permission of Damafro is prohibited. The publisher cannot be held liable for any error or negligence that occurs in using the recipes nor for any action taken as a result of the information contained herein. Postal Convention-publications no. 41158033. Return any correspondence undeliverable in Canada to: Damafro Inc. 54, rue Principale, Saint-Damase, Québec J0H 1J0. 1 800 363 2017
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Editorial
Bûchette Goat Cheese
On actions and meaning
Another win for our famous cheese.
We all want our lives to be meaningful, through the choices we make, through the actions we take. Whether these actions are ordinary, everyday gestures, or significant, important deeds. How we all strive to go through life abiding by that philosophy, to achieve that mind set, to be fully but peacefully aware. Well, it happens to be one of the best kept secrets of the cheese maker’s craft. Every day, every motion, every action, every moulding, every turning has a relevance, a meaning, and an impact on the end result: cheese.
Our famous Bûchette goat cheese, in its straw wrapping, wins first prize in its class at the 2012 World Championship Cheese Contest in Wisconsin. With its delicately chalky heart and subtle nutty flavour, it is a true legacy of the know-how that has created some the most famous French goat cheeses.
The skilful motions learned, and unceasingly and tirelessly repeated over time become themselves deeply etched in time… in the time spent doing things right, in the time that must be taken to fully appreciate and enjoy every bite of cheese. Happy reading. And have a wonderful summer.
Recipes, hints and tips, backgrounders...
Do you like what you are reading in this magazine? Subscribe for free at www.thegrandfamily.ca, the Web site of your fine cheesemaker. Or fill out this form and mail it to Damafro 54, rue Principale, Saint-Damase (Québec) J0H 1J0
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Summer 2012 – 3
Are cheese affected by the seasons? You could apply simple logic and answer:
1 Seasons have an effect on living organisms, on the environment (most agree with this).
2 Cheese is a “live” product, originating from a live being.
3 Therefore, cheese is affected by the seasons.
The statement is arguable, but overly simplistic. If we are to determine if there is indeed any effect of seasons on cheese, several other parameters must be added to the equation, especially considering that making and aging cheese involves an intricate balance of art and science. It is safe to say that, regardless of the type of dairy production, the kind of feed given or the conditions present during cheese making and aging, seasons definitely have an effect. But how much, and what kind? What the dairy producer, the cheese maker and the master ripener do is apply their talent, skill and know-how to control the milk-into-cheese transformation process. What they aim to create is a consistent product. How they do it is by positively influencing the variations inherent to the natural milk-to-cheese process. At each stage of the transformation process, man intervenes – and there lies the art – with the specific purpose of regulating, controlling or, more accurately, “taming” nature to keep the variations in check and produce the desired results. In the end, it is not just a matter of the influence of seasons, but of the influence of everyday weather. Temperature, moisture levels, wind, all have a significant influence on the natural cheese making and maturing processes.
4 – The Grand Family
And that is both the beauty and the reward of the cheese makers’ craft: every day, every one of his motions, of his actions, of his gestures filling the moulds or turning the cheese rounds, are important, meaningful, and significant. His art and skill are expressed in his cheeses, and – unavoidably – etched in time. Yet in spite of how successfully these masters of their craft control the variations in the cheese making process to achieve a product with distinctive and recognizable features, it is possible – fortunately! – to detect the remaining subtle and delicate effects of these variations brought on by the seasons. If you focus and practice, you will identify these faint differences in the cheeses you are enjoying. For example, in springtime, the goats’ and cows’ diet change. No longer fed cereal and winter fodder, they are let out in green pastures to graze on fresh grass rich in natural pigments such as carotenes. The milk produced in springtime, and the cheeses made from it, will not be as white, and likely take on a very light creamy yellow hue resulting from the presence of these carotenes. Yes, the very same carotenes that you find in… carrots, as well as in several other colourful fruits and vegetables! Keep an eye out for this subtle change in colour as those spring cheeses with short maturing periods come on the shelves this summer.
Did you know? Autumn aftermath milk In the Alpine highland regions, they call “autumn aftermath milk” the last milkings from cows that graze the “aftermath”, or second growth of plants before the frosts and before winter sets in the mountain pastures. As summer wanes, plants go through a final riotous burst of glory, unleash their last blossoms, and produce their last seeds. This short-stemmed “highland grass” cows relish is extremely flavourful and fragrant. And these flavours and fragrances impart cheeses with a bouquet of aromas sought out by cheese connoisseurs. It is precisely those features they expect in aged alpine gruyere‑type cheeses such as Beaufort, Abondance and Etivaz, to name a few.
Summer 2012 – 5
Recipe 1
Portobello and Goat Petit Gouda Burgers Servings: 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes Degree of difficulty: easy
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Goat Petit Gouda Subtle goaty nuances with a touch of animalic flavor and saltiness that underscores the delicacy of the famous cheese.
Ingredients
Preparation
• 4 large Portobello mushrooms, brushed with olive oil and roasted 3 to 4 minutes on each side over the BBQ or in a covered ribbed skillet • 2 Goat Petit Gouda, sliced in half lengthwise (gives 4 slices) Rusk and hazelnut breadcrumbs • 6 plain rusks (Grisol) • ½ cup roasted hazelnuts • 1 tsp. salt • ½ tsp. pepper • 6 eggs, beaten • 1 cup peanut oil for frying Sour Cream Sauce • 1 cup Damafro sour cream • 2 tbsp. Damafro Italian Feta’Salad • 1 tsp. Dijon mustard • 1 green onion, minced • 2 tbsp. lemon juice • ½ tsp. ground coriander • 1 tsp. Tabasco • Salt and pepper
1• M ix all sour cream sauce ingredients in a bowl. Set aside.
6 – The Grand Family
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
2• I n a food processor, reduce rusks and hazelnuts to the consistency of breadcrumbs. Spread in a plate. 3• B eat the eggs in another bowl. 4• D ip each Goat Petit Gouda slice in the eggs, then in the breadcrumbs. Repeat 3 times for each slice to get a good coating. 5• F ry in the hot but not smoking peanut oil until golden. 6• S pread 1 or 2 spoonfuls of sour cream sauce on each Portobello mushroom. Top with breaded Goat Petit Gouda melts. Serve immediately. Bon appétit! And best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
$3
rebate coupons!
1
$
New
Instant rebate on Feta’Salad
1
Instant rebate on
1
Instant rebate on
$
$
Goat Petit Gouda
P’tit Saint-Damase 175 g
$3
rebate coupons!
1
$
1
$
1
$
New Instant rebate on Feta’Salad
Instant rebate on Goat Petit Gouda
Instant rebate on P’tit Saint-Damase 175 g
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2012
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2012
To the retailer: Damafro will refund the nominal value of this coupon + predetermined fees when handed by the customer on purchase of the specified product. Any other use for this coupon will be deemed fraudulent. Should the retailer be unable to present, on request, invoices proving the purchase, in the previous 90 days, of sufficient inventory to cover the number of refundable rebate coupons, said coupons will have no value. For refund mail to: REDEMCO inc., P.O. Box 28, Longueuil (Qc) J4K 4X8. Limit: 1 coupon per purchase. Not transferable. No copies accepted. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Expires: 12/31/2012
Recipe 2
BBQed Saint-Damase Fondue
Servings: 4 to 6 Preparation time: 2 minutes Cooking time: 15 minutes Degree of difficulty: very easy
P’tit Saint-Damase A cheese with real character. The very first washed-rind soft cheese made in Quebec!
Ingredients
Preparation
• 2 P’tits Saint-Damase cheeses • 1 sourdough baguette (Première Moisson), oven warmed • 1 olive bread, oven warmed • Grapes, apples, and a variety of whole nuts, shelled
1• U nwrap the P’tit St-Damase cheeses, insert a pastry ring in each box, and slip the unwrapped cheeses back in.
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
2• C ook over low heat on the BBQ grill or in a covered ribbed skillet from 15 to 20 minutes. 3• P ick the cheese boxes up with a spatula, and flip over on a serving plate. Remove box and pastry ring. Careful, they’re hot! 4• W ith a sharp knife, cut an X through the top rind and fold the rind open. Enjoy this marvelous P’tit St-Damase fondue with bread, fruit and nuts. Bon appétit! And best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas Summer 2012 – 9
What is meant when a label indicates that Brie or a Camembert is produced according to “traditional” methods? There are basically two main methods of making soft cheeses of the Brie or Camembert variety: The “traditional” method. When using this cheese-making method, the unripened cheese undergoes what is called a lactic fermentation. During the first weeks of ripening, this fermentation process gives the young Brie or Camembert cheese its typical delicate chalky centre. What does that mean for you? A texture that evolves from firm to melting as the cheese ages, but especially a truly flavourful taste. The “stabilized” or “regular” method. As opposed to the traditional method, the lactic acid fermentation is prevented. The dough of the cheese remains uniform throughout. What does that mean for you? A consistent texture, softer and more delicate. 10 – The Grand Family
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Registration closes June 15, 2012 sommaire 5 . . . . . . . . introduction 9 . . . . . . . . les réponses du fromager 15 . . . . les grandes familles 19 . . . . . . pâtes molles 43 . . . . . . pâtes fermes et semi-fermes 69 . . . . . . fromages non affinés 85 . . . . . . fromages frais 97 . . . . . . harmonie vins & fromages 102 . . . . . index pain au brie, olives noires et noix
pain au brie
olives noires et noix Accompagnement Nombre de personnes : 6 Temps de préparation : 15 minutes Temps de cuisson : 40 minutes Niveau de difficulté : facile
sommaire
4 tasses de farine tous usages 1 brie coupé en morceaux 1 sachet de levure instantanée (8 g) 1 c. à soupe de sel 1 c. à soupe de sucre 1 c. à soupe de thym 1 ¼ à 1 ½ tasse d’eau tiède
mousse mousse de café et framboises au caramel d’érable
Garniture ½ tasse d’olives noires dénoyautées et coupées en deux ½ tasse de noix de Grenoble
Le saviez-vous ? Un brie double crème comme Le mc Trappeur arrondira les saveurs et adoucira le caractère “salin” et “acide” des olives.
autres fromages... • camembert 22
pâtes molles
• bûchette de chèvre
Nombre de personnes : 4 Temps de préparation : 5 minutes Temps d’égouttage: toute la nuit Niveau de difficulté : très facile
• Dans le bol du robot culinaire, verser la farine, le brie, la levure instantanée, le sel, le sucre et le thym. Pulser quelques coups pour bien mélanger. • Démarrer le robot à puissance maximale, verser l’eau en filet sur le mélange de farine jusqu’à l’obtention d’une boule de pain. • Saupoudrer un peu de farine sur votre plan de travail, déposer votre boule de pain et mélanger les olives et les noix en pétrissant. • Former 1 grosse miche ou 8 petites, les déposer sur une tôle à biscuit légèrement huilée et laisser reposer 3 heures recouvert d’un linge humide. Cuire au four préchauffé à 375°F environ 40 minutes. • Vous pouvez également ajouter à votre préparation du début 2 à 3 cuillères à soupe de parmesan râpé. Vous aurez un pain plus corsé en fromage.
Mousse de café 500 g de yogourt au café 1 tasse de framboises surgelées Caramel d’érable 4 c. à soupe de beurre 4 c. à soupe de sirop d’érable ¼ tasse de cassonade • Verser le contenant de yogourt et la tasse de framboises dans un grand filtre à café ou un coton à fromage et laisser égoutter toute la nuit. Vous obtiendrez une mousse de café onctueuse aux framboises. • Réserver dans des coupes.
accord des vins...
Caramel • Dans une grande poêle à feu moyen, faire fondre le beurre, ajouter le sirop d’érable, continuer la cuisson 1 minute en mélangeant. • Saupoudrer la cassonade petit à petit en mélangeant jusqu’à l’obtention d’un caramel. • Ajouter en filet sur votre mousse de café aux framboises.
• vin rouge fruité et léger pâtes molles
23
autres fromages... • Damablancmc 0
de café et framboises au caramel d’érable
fromages frais
• cottage
accord des vins... • ricotta
• vin blanc demi-sec fruité et doux fromages frais
1
Summer 2012 – 11
Recipe 3
Grilled Koftas Patties with Damafro plain Feta’Salad Servings: 4 Preparation time: 15 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Degree of difficulty: easy
Plain Feta’Salad Liven up your salads with a sprinkling of Feta!
Ingredients
Preparation
4 naan or pita breads, oven or BBQ warmed or grilled until lightly golden Kofta mixture • 1 (125 g) container of plain FETA’SALAD • 1 lb (500 g) ground meat of your choice • 2 slices of bread, crust removed, brushed with olive oil and toasted, then soaked in water, squeezed, and chopped • 1 large onion, minced • 6 tbsp. fresh parsley, chopped • 2 to 3 pinches of Cayenne pepper • ½ tsp. ground cumin • Salt and pepper to taste Garnish • 1 container of Damafro tzaziki
1• In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients to make the koftas. Knead lightly until well mixed. Shape into 4 patties and grill over the BBQ or in a ribbed skillet, about 5 minutes on each side.
12 – The Grand Family
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
2• Spread a bit of tzaziki on naan breads and top with grilled kofta. Serve immediately. Bon appétit! And best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
Recipe 4
Green bean, beet and fennel Italian Feta’Salad with raspberry dressing Servings: 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes for some vegetables such as the beets Degree of difficulty: easy
Italian Feta’Salad Liven up your salads with a sprinkling of Feta!
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
Ingredients
Preparation
Salad Mix • 1 container (125 g) Italian FETA’SALAD • 1 lb (450 g) green beans, steam cooked • 2 fennel bulbs, fresh, grated • 2 red beets, cooked, peeled, and diced • 2 yellow beets, cooked, peeled, and diced • 2 green apples, thinly sliced • 2 red onions, thinly sliced Raspberry Dressing • 1 cup canola oil • ¼ cup rice vinegar • ¼ cup raspberry jam • 2 tbsp. Dijon mustard • 2 shallots, minced • 2 garlic cloves, minced • 10 basil leave, minced • 1 tsp. ground coriander • Salt and pepper to taste
1• D ivide salad ingredients between four plates. 2• I n a bowl, except for the oil, mix all the other ingredients for the dressing. As you slowly pour the oil, whisk briskly until smooth and creamy. Pour on each serving. Bon appétit! And best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
Summer 2012 – 13
Recipe 5
Madame Clément Brie and Sunny Salsa Super Burgers Servings: 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: 10 minutes Degree of difficulty: easy
Brie Madame Clément
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
A Brie with the true character of a traditional Brie
Ingredients
Preparation – Sunny Salsa
• 4 hamburger buns brushed with olive oil and toasted on the BBQ or a ribbed skillet • 1 cup aragula Hamburger Patty Mix • 500 g ground meat of your choice • 8 dried tomatoes packed in oil, drained and finely chopped • 6 sprigs of fresh coriander, chopped • Salt and pepper to taste Garnish • 2 Madame Clément Bries, cut in 8 or 12 wedges Sunny Salsa • ½ red bell pepper, diced • ½ green bell pepper, diced • 1 small onion, minced • 1 tbsp. de jalapeno pepper, seeds removed, finely diced • 2 fresh tomatoes, diced • 4 sprigs of fresh coriander, chopped • 4 sprigs of fresh chive, chopped • 4 tbsp. balsamic vinegar • 1 tsp. salt • ½ tsp. pepper
1• P ut all the ingredients for the salsa in a food processor. Pulse a few seconds at a time, until blended and smooth. Set aside in the fridge, until ready to garnish the burgers.
14 – The Grand Family
Preparation – cooking the hamburgers 1• I n a bowl, mix all the hamburger ingredients. Shape into 4 patties and grill over medium high heat on the BBQ or in a ribbed skillet, about 4 to 5 minutes on each side. Top each hamburger with a few Madame Clément Brie wedges. 2• S pread 1 tbsp. of salsa on half of the toasted buns, put some aragula, then the hamburger patty and its melted Brie. Add a bit more salsa, and top with the other half of the hamburger buns. Serve immediately. Bon appétit! And best regards from a fellow gourmet, Nicolas
Recipe 6
Cool Summer Smoked Salmon Verrine, with Mandarin Oranges and Provençale Feta’Salad
Servings: 4 Preparation time: 10 minutes Cooking time: — Degree of difficulty: very easy
Provençale Feta’Salad
For a video of this recipe by Nicolas, go to thegrandfamily.ca
Liven up your salads with a sprinkling of Feta!
Ingredients
Preparation
• 100 g mesclun lettuce mix • 8 slices of smoked salmon cut in strips • 2 avocados, peeled and cut in strips • 2 mandarin oranges, peeled, divided in segments • 10 leaves of red basil cut in strips Yogurt Dressing • 2 cups of 2% plain Damafro yogurt • 1 container (125 g) Provençale FETA’SALAD • 1 tbsp. Dijon mustard • 4 tbsp. lemon juice • 4 tbsp. olive oil • 4 sprigs of fresh dill, finely chopped • 2 tsp. capers
1• Mix all dressing ingredients. 2• I n four lovely dessert cups or glasses, put the mesclun salad mix, smoked salmon, avocado, and mandarin segments. Finish with yogurt topping, and garnish with red basil leaves. Serve immediately. Bon appétit ! Amitiés gourmandes, Nicolas
Summer 2012 – 15
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Liven up your salads with a sprinkling of Feta!
www.thegrandfamily.ca