A top spot for coves and coast Barmouth is something of a hidden gem compared to other seaside resorts of North and Mid Wales, but the town is well worth a visit – for a day, a week or longer
DID YOU KNOW? Until 2013 you had to pay a toll to cross the bridge Boats wait for the tide in the harbour
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t’s strange we don’t hear more about Barmouth, given that it occupies a prime position on the Gwynned coast and offers easy access to both the peaks of Snowdonia and the sweeping bays of the area’s shoreline. It lies on the estuary of the Afon Mawddach, where the river enters Cardigan Bay, creating the ‘mouth’ of its title and giving it a location to be envied. The town grew up around the shipbuilding and slate industries and has retained many notable buildings, such as the medieval Ty Gwyn tower house, 19th-century Ty Crwn roundhouse prison and St John’s Church. Now a thriving seaside town, it has attracted artists, writers and poets over the centuries. Wordsworth fell in love with the area, saying: “With a fine sea view in front, the mountains behind, the glorious estuary running inland, and Cadair Idris within compass of a day’s walk, it can hold its own against any rival.”
Well connected
The aspects that make Barmouth such an appealing destination don’t prevent it being 24 SHIRE MAGAZINE | March/April 2022
linked to the wider world, however, and a complex infrastructure makes sure it is easy to get to. The town has its own railway station, and services run north to Pwllheli via Harlech, Porthmadog and Criccieth, and east to Birmingham International via Tywyn, Machynlleth, Shrewsbury, Telford and Wolverhampton. Further extensions to the tracks have now become part of the Mawddach Trail, a cycle path and walkway. For those enjoying heritage transport, a ferry sails to Penrhyn Point, where it connects with the narrow-gauge Fairbourne Railway for the village of the same name. The town also has a RNLI lifeboat station and visitors’ centre, with a shop and viewing gallery that makes the most of the sweeping views.
can be spent browsing, dipping in and out of stores, with regular coffee stops and maybe an ice cream on the harbour watching the boats and seagulls. The old town is well worth a visit with its steep steps and slate-roofed cottages on the side of a mountain. The harbour is beautiful and you can walk across the spectacular Barmouth Bridge spanning the river. For those seeking more extreme exertion there is an annual challenge that starts in the town: the Barmouth to Fort William Three Peaks race. This involves sailing from Wales via England to Scotland (389 miles), then climbing the three highest mountains in the UK – Snowdon, Scafell Pike and Ben Nevis – a total of 11,000ft of climbing and 72 miles running.
Paddling and peaks
Barmouth has been welcoming visitors for over 150 years and it’s easy to see why. There is a lot to take in locally, and the sunsets are amazing as the town is on the west coast, in the southern part of Snowdonia. Those keen on making the most of the outdoors can enjoy walking, cycling, paddleboarding, kayaking, paddling or building sandcastles, and the area’s rich history can also be appreciated via the Heritage Trail (see right) and by visiting the two museums. There is a wide range of independent shops, cafes, pubs and restaurants, so a day
The bridge over the estuary is a stunning walk THINGS TO SEE AND DO Barmouth Heritage Trail www.barmouth-wales.co.uk/heritage-trail Barmouth Sailors’ Institute (museum) The Quay, Barmouth LL42 1ET The Dragon Theatre Jubilee Road, Barmouth LL42 1EF
