Estuarial Alchemy

Estuarial Alchemy PL ASTIC RECYCLING & SHOE PRODUCTION CENTRE

D A N I E L PA I G G E / / U N I T 1 A / / P R O J E C T 3 B R I E F

Contents 1.

ABSTRACT

(5)

2.

CONTEXT

(8)

3.

THEME

(18)

4.

CONCERN

(43)

5.

SOLUTION

(52)

6.

ARCHITECTURE

(61)

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

4

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

1.

Abstract

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

5

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

6

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Esturial

Thames Estuary: The estuary in which the River Thames meets the waters of the North Sea.

A LC H E M Y

Alchemy: A seemingly magical process of transformation, creation, or combination

Behind the globally attractive façade of London lies

million people and is growing rapidly. The development of

to clean up the waste plastic in the river and turn it into

an industrial hinterland that catalysed its economic

the city has led to prosperity for many but has left a particular

something of greater value. The waste recycling can then in

development into the 21st Century. The Thames estuary

population in turmoil: aquatic life.

turn provide materials for a new industry on the water front,

has facilitated London’s growth throughout its lifetime and

producing shoes with modern technologies to help bring

without it, the capital would not be what it is today. The Essex

The Thames is omnipresent throughout London’s expansion

the region of Thurrock into the 21st Century and echo the

marshland on the banks of the estuary have provided much

and over time it has swallowed up many different pollutants.

one mighty Bata Factory of East Tilbury.

needed space for agriculture, urban development, recreation

The last half a century saw the birth of perhaps mankind’s

or military use. Industry has also been a key presence along

greatest and worst invention: plastic. London consumes

The project seeks to stimulate the economically deprived

the estuary, with manufacture and production forming an

an enormous amount of plastic each year and inadequate

region with a new attraction and production facility. The

economic powerhouse in the region.

attitudes towards disposal have led to a large amount

architecture not only functions as a facility to create value

not being recycled or disposed of correctly. Plastic in the

out of waste from the river but it also serves as a reminder

The development of the Edgelands was built off the back

Thames is a threat to aquatic life and threatens to affect

that we should be conscious of what damage we do to

of this but in recent years, as the production has slowed,

fish populations if the problem is not dealt with. Through

the estuarial ecosystems. The public engagement with the

Essex has been hit hard with unemployment. The industry

our own doing, we also run the risk of potentially harmful

architecture will serve to teach, subconsciously or otherwise,

which once underpinned the region now lies desolate: a

plastics entering our own food chain, putting our own

about the dangers of our consumer culture and seeks to

bleak reminder of its heyday, offering little in the way of

wellbeing in jeopardy.

establish a new relationship between consumption and the

redeeming itself.

Meanwhile, London has swelled to a population of 8.6

environment, one which doesn’t recklessly do as it pleases The project aims to restore an industrial presence on the

without due consideration but one which benefits precious

Thurrock waterfront that facilitates a process of ‘alchemy’

ecosystems.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

7

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

2.

Context

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

8

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

9

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Industrial

H E R I TA G E

B ATA S H O E O R G A N I S AT I O N

The Thames Estuary is a naturally occurring inlet where the River Thames meets the North Sea. It is one of 170 inlets into mainland of the UK and this means it is a key geographical location in relation to the City of London. It is bounded by Greater London to the west, Kent to the south and Essex to the north. Though its boundaries are difficult to define exactly, it effectively runs from South-West London to the easternmost point of Kent where the river meets the North Sea. The Thames Estuary has a rich history of manufacture. It has provided access

F O R D M O T O R C O M PA N Y

from the sea to the City of London which has meant Essex has been a key location for ports, transport logistics and manufacture.

As one of the largest natural inlets to the UK mainland, the estuary has been a key trade route for centuries. It has allowed shipping and trade routes to access one of the most important cities in the world and the surrounding land around it has been built on the back of this. Thousands of shipping movements each year include oil tankers, container ships, and bulk carriers.

PORT OF TILBURY

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

10

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Port O F

TILBURY

The Port of Tilbury is located along the estuary and is the principle port for London.There are a number of docks which make up the handling capabilities of London’s imports and the Port of Tilbury is one of the largest. It handles a variety of bulk cargo, timber, cars and container traffic.

It is also the UKs main importer of paper, including newsprint.

During the 1960s when the docks closer to the City were closing, Tilbury was actually expanding its facilities. The industry remained strong in Tilbury and remains so to this day. DP World, an International logistics company with a portfolio of ports around the world, has planned to build a ÂŁ1.5 billion port on the Thames Gateway, further expanding its logistical capabilities. It does however, employ significantly fewer people than it would have done in the past which has had an impact on employment in the region.

The logistical prowess of the region makes it ideal for importing material and exporting goods. Shipping to a customer overseas will be much cheaper when the goods are produced in the same region from which they are exported.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

12

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Ford FA C T O R Y DAGENHAM

The manufacturing story of the Estuary starts closer towards the City of London with the Ford Factory in Dagenham. It sat on the Thames as a major manufacturing power. Relocated in 1931 from Trafford Park, Manchester to Dagenham, the Ford Motor company’s 500-acre (2 km²) riverside site was developed to become Europe’s largest car plant and was dubbed ‘the Detroit of Europe’. With its own blast furnace and power station, the factory would import iron ore and export finished vehicles, employing around 40,000 people in the process.

Today, the factory has ceased full production due to overcapacity in Europe and the relative difficulty of upgrading the older factory compared to newer ones on the continent. Despite the demise of whole car production, the Diesel Centre of Excellence has continued the manufacturing prowess of the region and now produces half of the world’s Ford diesel engines.

This is located near to the old factory and keeps the manufacturing tradition of the region alive.

The idea of importing a raw material and exporting finished goods in a hollistic process is one which I wish to bring to shoe manufacture in my project.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

13

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

BATA

“

FA C T O R Y

The Bata Shoe Company believed that controlling the supply of its raw materials meant that they could be sure of two things - that its factories received the right qualities of material to meet the ever changing needs of the industry, and that the right quantities would be available at the right time.

”

The Bata shoe company was founded in 1894 by Tomáš Baťa. Originally in the Austro-Hungarian Empire, he built the first Bata factory dedicated to making cheap shoes for the masses. He used the revolutionary technique of mass production by mechanisation and the assembly line. This meant large quantities of affordable shoes could be produced quickly and efficiently. Instead of going to the cobbler to get a bespoke pair of shoes, you could walk walk into a Bata shop and find a pair of shoes that were your size that would fit.

Bata would go on to build a town around the factory to house the vast quantity of workers needed for the industrialised process and give them a well built and sturdy place to call home. Their base in Zlín, AustrioHungarian Empire (now Czech Republic) was a model town built around the Bata Company which could be exported around the world and indeed it was.

As a way to alleviate unemployment in the area after the Great Depression

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

14

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Bata Memories

“

In the 1980s the Bata Company elected to cease manufacture here in favour of Asian countries where labour costs were minimal. Not so paternalistic after all.

”

Jonathan Meades

and to overcome expensive customs import tariffs, Bata wanted a factory in the UK so they didn’t spend so much sending their goods from Zlín. In 1932, construction began in East Tilbury to build a Bata factory on British soil, and with it, a town to house its workers.

The factory was an economic force in Tilbury and was unique in the regard that it had its own town dependent upon it. When the factory was built, houses, schools and leisure facilities were built as a neighbourhood in a Modernist style. The so called ‘Bata-ville’ was popular with its inhabitants and there are many forums online where people share cherished memories of working and living under the Bata name.

The town today is in a deprived state within Thurrock. The shifting of production to areas closer to the export markets meant that by the 1960s the Bata factory was gradually moving away from East Tilbury. In the 1980s the factory was downsizing its production and in 2005 the factory shut its doors. The closure of the factory indicates cheaper labour abroad has meant mass production of shoes in the UK is not as feasible as it used to be and the world has moved on.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

15

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

“

I think it would be terrific if everybody was alike.

”

Andy Warhol

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

16

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

17

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

3.

Theme

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

18

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

19

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

A BRIEF H I S TO R Y O F

Shoes

Though the human foot has evolved for hundreds of thousands of years, it is still sensitive to hot/cold ground and sharp objects such as rocks and glass. Shoes have therefore been around for thousands of years, with the earliest known examples believed to be used around 70008000BC and were typically made from leather of other animal skins.

In examples of ancient history, civilisations in parts of the Middle East and Africa created sandals from grasses, leaves and animal hides. These were commonly worn in particular regions but were not universally adopted. Civilisations such as the Greeks, Egyptians and Hindus saw no need for any sort of footwear and often preferred to go barefoot.

The Romans saw shoes as a necessity in order to be considered civilised and were seen as a sign of power. This ideal prevailed over the coming centuries and throughout the middle ages, shoes were adopted commonly. The Espadrille was common shoe and is produced with braided grass soles and a cotton fabric upper. Medieval shoes were commonly produced as ‘turn shoes’. These are shoes which are made predominantly of leather and fit closely around the wearer’s foot and tied with lace.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

20

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Other shoes were born out of the middle ages and many of the different and sometimes radical designs were worn as fashion statements rather than purely functional reasons. Pattens became popular in Europe during the 15th Century but at the time many of the poor and lower classes went barefoot. Similarly, Crakows and Chopines were developed and worn by people but they were status symbols and indicated wealth.

Commercial Shoe manufacturing only became more common towards the mid-18th Century as it started to expand as an industry. By the end of the 19th Century, what was once a traditional handicraft had become completely mechanised. The invention of the sewing machine, cheap labour and industrial factory spirit of the age all transformed the shoe production process for the mass market.

Traditional shoe making practice using leather, nailed on soles and stitching has remained the process for making formal or dress shoes. Nowadays though, newer styles created in the 20th Century (as a response to new processes and materials) deviate from traditional manufacture. Plastics, rubber and industrial adhesives all meant that athletic shoes are easier and quicker to make and also more versatile. They have the drawback of being less environmentally friendly as they do not biodegrade once thrown away. It is estimated that most mass-produced shoes require 1000 years to degrade in a landfill.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

21

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

2000 BC Egyptians,

Middle

Eastern

and

African civilisations wore shoes made from vegetation and grasses which resemble the modern sandal or flip

8000 BC

flop.

Earliest known examples of artefacts resembling shoes found at this period.

They were typically made from leather of other animal skins with grass

15th Century

or other dried vegetation used as

Pattens,

cushioning.

Crakows

and

Chopines

developed through a period when the shoes were worn as a fashion

14th Century

statement or symbol of power rather than for practicality.

Espiralles originated in Catalonia and Leather turnshoes became prevalent throughout medieval Britian.

41 AD The Romans saw shoes as a necessity

1950s

in order to be considered civilised and were seen as a sign of power. They

Post war rations ceased and leather as

wore sandals made from leather.

a shoe making material began to be

1930s Adidas

rivalled for the first time in history by sportswear

The

Olympics in 1936 helped popularise

1920s Converse All Star sneakers introduced

athletic footwear.

in the US which used rubber soles and fabric upper.

founded.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

22

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

synthetic materials.

19th Century Industrial revolution gave birth to the mass production of shoes through

18th Century The

birth

of

mechanical manufacturing processes. commercial

shoe

manufacturing. Getting a bespoke pair of shoes made by a cobbler was

1980s 1990s

no longer the only way of getting

Microfibres,

shoes.

stretch

fabrics

and

synthetic materials saw a rebirth in

1970s Leather

became

less

and

Injection moulded plastics became a viable shoe material as seen in the 1960s fashionable Go-go boot.

retro styles. Computerised embroidery

Athletic footwear was the centre

and other new methods of decoration

of shoe innovations such as added

brought customisation to the mass

air insoles for comfort and shock

market.

absorption. Branding also became

less

a very important aspect of shoes as

prevalent in shoe making and many

1960s

1980s

people began to collect them as a

different materials were used in shoe

hobby.

production. The 70s saw the birth of athletics shoes for jogging or casual wear.

2010s Arguably the greatest advancement in manufacture was 3D printing.

Innovations continued to be made in the sports shoe market and every year there

2000s

were advancements to cushioning, stability, weight and performance. Approaches varied with some manufacturers having advanced cushioning with some opting to imitate bare

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

23

- feet.

D A N I E L PA I G G E

The 2010s saw the technology develop exponentially and this led to some designs of 3D printed shoes.

These could be saved digitally and reproduced with easy customisation.

The traditional practice of shoemaking was probably the best method for achieving perfectly fitted shoes as each foot was individually measured to shape the material around the foot. This was the first real commercial method for shoe manufacture and required a large amount of man hours and craftsmanship.

Some of the processes are still used today to make leather shoes. In the UK, many of the traditional manufacturers in Northampton still work this way.

Traditional

A N AT O M Y

1

2

3

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

4

25

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

5

6

1.

Leather Sole (Outsole)

2.

Leather Upper

3.

Tongue

4.

Heel

5.

Cushioned Insole

6.

Heel Counter

Traditional

S H O E M A N U FA C T U R E

Feet are measured by length, width

Leather is marked and cut by hand.

Uppers assembled using two bits

Insole attached to last to form the

and height to determine dimensions

This constitutes the uppers of the

of soft leather for the interior of the

inside of the shoe to the correct

for the shoe.

shoe and is cut out at the required

shoe and two bits of leather of a

shape.

size for a bespoke shoe.

firmer texture for the outer part. A pair of flexible leather bands and lifts and top pieces for the heels are also used.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

26

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

A traditional Italian cobbler’s workshop

Leather upper attached to sole with

Sole hammered into shape by hand.

‘tacks’ to hold in place.

A cobbler’s shoe last

Heel lifts attached to sole with

Shoes finished by hand (scraping,

wooden pegs

buffing,

burnishing,

withdrawing

the lasts) to achieve the clean and polished look so that they can be worn with pride.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

27

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Athletic

A N AT O M Y

1

2

3

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

4

28

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

5

6

1.

Rubber Sole (Outsole)

2.

Synthetic Upper

3.

Tongue

4.

Foam Midsole

5.

Cushioned Insole

6.

Heel Counter

In the industrial era, mass production was utilised everywhere and it was inevitably integrated into the shoe making business. The modern methods of cutting, forming and stitching allowed the process to be completely mechanised. This made shoes much cheaper for the general public and their durability was adequate for them to compete with traditional cobblers’ shoes.

Individual shoes tailor-made to a person’s foot shape and size were not affordable for everyone but they remained alongside the mass production market.

Today this is how most shoes are made and factories are located where the labour is cheap. Africa and Asia are the main exporters of mass produced shoes in the world but some UK based companies manufacture their shoes locally but the customer will have to pay more.

Industrial

S H O E M A N U FA C T U R E

Leather/ synthetic material cut using

Pieces of shoe upper arranged by

a dye of a standard foot size and a

hand and sewn together using a

hydraulic machine cutter.

computerised sewing machine.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

30

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Cutting pieces of synthetic material using hydraulic press.

A stock shoe last

Upper part of the shoe has branded

A standardised sole of the correct

embroidery stiched onto it and the

shoe size is glued to the upper. Heat is

shoe is then steamed and a stock last

applied and vacuum pressure secures

inserted into the shoe.

the shoe together whilst drying.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

31

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Manufacturers IN THE UK

Despite cheap labour costs from less economically developed countries in Asia and Africa, some shoe companies still manufacture all or part of their stock in the UK. This usually carries a higher price tag but a significant number of people are willing to support the UK industry and wear a product they know is ‘Made in the UK’.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

32

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

1.

2.

NEW BALANCE

H OT T E R

New Balance is a large American athletic footwear company and is one of the largest

A niche shoe manufacturer who produces shoes designed for comfort whilst still

athletic footwear manufacturers in the world. Keen to maintain a manufacturing

maintaining an aesthetic appeal to its target audience. The founder was keen to remain

presence in the countries of the key consumers, they have factories in USA and the

in Lancashire, UK despite the companies around him all closing due to cheaper labour

UK. The UK factory in Flimby, Cumbria has been in operation since 1982 and produces

overseas in Asia and Africa. The factory in Lancashire is one of the most advanced shoe

around 28,000 shoes a day.

making facilities in the world.

3.

4.

N O R M A N WA L S H

N O R T H A M P TO N

Norman Walsh served as an apprentice to the master shoe maker whose grandchildren

Northampton has a rich history of shoemaking and was a major centre for the craft in

went on to found Reebok. His skill was recognised as he designed shoes for athletes

its heydey. The town has numerous iconic brands of traditional footwear that survive

and sportsmen throughout the 1960s. He set up Norman Walsh footwear during

but are specialist producers utilising a significant level of craft when compared to

the time and manufactured his athletic shoes in Bolton, Lancashire in a factory that

other mass producers in the country. Iconic casual boot, Doc Martens have a ‘Made in

remains operational to this day.

England’ range which are still produced in Northampton.

5.

6.

F LO R I DA G R O U P

GINA

The Florida group is based in Norwich and specialises in manufacturing and retailing

A company dedicated to producing beautifully designed women’s shoes, Gina

high quality women’s shoes under the brand name Van-Dal. It is the only surviving

was established in 1954 as a design, manufacturing and luxury retail company. The

shoe manufacturer in Norwich which has a heritage of women and children’s shoes.

company is internationally renowned for their sculpted footwear and remain the only

The factory was established in 1936 and continues to produce 20% of the 500,000

designer label manufacturing their shoes in London.

shoes made by the brand annually.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

33

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Mass

C U S T O M I S AT I O N

Mass customisation utilises Computer Aided Manufacturing techniques to allow the consumer to make choices on a product and allows to influence the final design of the product. The technology has meant that mass produced products can have variations within them with little or no extra cost to the consumer.

MASS PRODUCTION

CRAFT PRODUCTION

This makes a product more desirable when a customer can have a choice of colour, material and other personalised elements depending on the product. The customer can then feel like they have a product which is tailored to them and can also give them differentiation from everyone else, which is lacking from conventional mass production.

Optimised set up/ manufacturing lines

Small, on-demand factories

In athletic shoes, the customer’s ability to configure their own shoes is growing with each year. The ability to change colours of nearly every shoe element has meant millions of different configurations of shoe are possible for the consumer.

M A S S C U S T O M I S AT I O N

Mass customisation means that a large factory facility employing thousands of workers on a production line will not be necessary but it will operate as a small, on demand production facility.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

34

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

NikeiD launched in 2012 and allows customers to become the designers of the shoe. The customer can choose different areas of the shoe to personalise and can change the colour and fabric as desired. The service started as an online initiative but now offers customers an in store experience as seen in the Nike flagship store in London.

The so called ‘Sneaker Cube’ offers an immersive experience for the now shopper-cumdesigner with a relaxed and informal atmosphere complete with computers to customise the shoes alongside a library and ‘chill space’.

Biometric

A N A LY S I S Some companies offer an even more personalised product which is bespoke to the consumers’ exact size so that it fits only them. A suit for instance, can be tailor made by a fitter. Body dimensions are measured so that material can be cut and stitched at exactly the right sizes to ensure the perfect fit and best looking end product for the customer.

This was a laborious and time consuming service which, in the height of mass production, was reserved for only those that could afford the premium price that came with it. In recent years, technological advancements have meant bespoke products can be available to the mass market with litle additional cost to the consumer.

Planet X bikes offer a biometric scanning service so that bikes can be fitted exactly to a customer’s needs and body proportions. The Infrared and LED laser scanning allows dynamic movements of the rider to be captured, as well as their positioning. The biometric data is useful so that the manufacturer can make ‘informed, accurate judgements regarding the adjustments each individual rider needs.’

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

36

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

37

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

3D foot mapping

Collecting Biometric Data

Gait cycle analysis

Translating into a 3D geometry

Athletic footwear company Asics offer a ‘Foot ID’ service

New Balance is also using biomechanical data to inform their

which records the feet’s biomechanical data through 3D

athletic footwear design. A prototype working with a professional

laser scanning, foot pressure mapping and gait analysis.

athlete was made by firstly mapping his biomechanical data of

These sets of data allow the customer to see which tread

pressure, running technique and where the foot was looking for

style suits their foot shape and running style to allow the

traction. The data was then processed using computer algorithms

greatest performance whilst avoiding injury.

to generate a sole geometry to compliment the runner’s technique.

The sole was then printed off using a 3D printer.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

38

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Feetz are a revolutionary company who offer bespoke

Parley for the Oceans is a charity devoted to cleaning up the world’s oceans to remove the threat to marine

shoes via 3D printing technology. Using a smartphone

wildlife and ecosystems posed by waste plastics. Their underlying solution to reducing the world’s waste

camera, three pictures are taken of the feet and this gives

plastic issue is in their so called ‘AIR’ philosophy which is an anagram for ‘Avoid. Intercept. Redesign.’

enough data to be able to 3D print a shoe at the correct size. The shoes are made 100% of 3D printed material

They teamed up with Adidas to manufacture a trainer made from plastic recovered from the ocean. Made

which limits their aesthetic and functional qualities as the

from fishing nets and plastic bottles, the first iteration of the shoe had an upper made from recovered

technologies stand today but provide a bespoke product.

plastic. The most recent innovation showcased a 3D printed sole made from recovered plastics.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

39

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Custom

S H O E M A N U FA C T U R E

The customer’s feet are mapped

The customer’s running technique

The

biometric

data

collected

The complex and unique geometry

using 3D laser scans to plot the exact

is then analysed by running past a

is processed using a computer

of the sole is printed off using a 3D

geometry and create a 3D computer

series of data loggers and pressure

algorithm which translates the foot’s

printer.

model of the feet.

plates. The regions where the foot is

interactions with the ground into a

looking for traction are mapped. The

bespoke sole as a 3D model.

customer’s gait is also analysed.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

40

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

3D printed sole tailored to suit the customer’s gait

A 3D replica of the customer’s foot

The fabric upper pieces are cut

The pieces of the upper are stitched

Lastly, the upper and the sole are

according to the exact size of the

together. An exact replica of the

glued together. Heat is applied and

foot from the previously collected

customer’s foot can be printed off

vacuum pressure secures the shoe

measurements.

using a 3D printer to act as a bespoke

together whilst drying.

last. This is used to form the shape of the fabric upper.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

41

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

42

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

4.

Concern

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

43

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

38%

22%

18%

PA C K A G I N G

CONSTRUCTION

OT H E R

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

44

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

UK PLASTIC

Consumption

The majority of plastic consumption in the UK is in packaging which also happens to be the most temporary product. The remaining uses for plastic have a degree of relative longevity and in most cases are not designed to be discarded

7%

7%

6%

2%

TRANSPORT

TO Y S

ELECTRICALS

MEDICAL

immediately.

Packaging’s short useful life, coupled with the quantities in which it is produced and its life span as a material means that it is the most important consideration for recycling so that it doesn’t end up in landfill or waterways if we can avoid it.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

45

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

The current state of the UK’s waste plastic strategy looks pretty good when compared with other parts of the world where plastics are put into landfill as the first option.

Sophisticated and viable technologies exist to recycle plastics effectively but it requires households, industry and

In the UK Household Plastics Collection Survey 2015, plastic packaging entering the UK market was 2,260,000 pieces in 2015. Of this amount, 1,119,000 tonnes of rigid plastics packaging is consumed by households, with an increase in the consumption of plastic bottles in particular.

492,623 tonnes of plastic were collected for recycling, of which 337,447 were plastic bottles. Bottles constituted the majority of collected plastic at 70% whilst the remainder was pots, tubs and trays. According to the survey, the average UK household used 500 plastic bottles a year but only recycles 280 of them. The average collection is 11.91kg of plastic

= recycled = 100 plastic bottles = unrecycled

bottles from each UK household.

5.5 billion plastic bottles were not collected to be recycled

by UK households – nearly 15 million plastic bottles a day.

UK HOUSEHOLD ANNUAL CONSUMPTION

Taking in plastic bottles to recycle them into a new useful product would be beneficial to the environment. It would reduce the number entering landfill or the oceans and help solve this pressing waste issue of the 21st Century.

5,500,000,000

manufacturers to cooperate.

U N R E C YC L E D B OT T L E S I N THE UK

Source: UK Household Plastics Collection Survey 2015 ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

46

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

2,260,000t

1,119,000t

PLASTIC ENTERING THE UK

R I G I D P L A S T I C PA C K A G I N G

492,623t

337,447t

RECYCLING COLLECTED

P L A S T I C B OT T L E S C O L L E C T E D

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

47

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Ocean

PLASTIC

Plastics are providing a cause for concern on a global scale.

malnutrition. They may also die of poisoning from harmful

Their relative indestructability as a material is making them

chemicals in the plastic.

difficult to dispose of effectively. Many countries in the world have not managed to deal with waste plastic and as a result,

Plastics weaken over time due to absorption of UV radiation

a significant amount is ending up in the world’s oceans,

which means they will begin to break down.

posing a threat to aquatic life. Huge areas of waste plastic

organic matter which biodegrades into different products,

in the ocean culminate in regions where global currents

the plastic’s degradation over time results in the pieces

converge.

becoming smaller and smaller whilst remaining a polymer.

Unlike

The process continues down to a molecular level

and

So what does it matter if some plastic ends up in the oceans?

the plastics fragments become so small that they will be

Surely it will biodegrade eventually and then it won’t be a

ingested by aquatic animals near to the surface and enter

problem?

the food chain.

These so called ‘garbage patches’ contain huge amounts

Besides the physical problems of plastic fragments being

of floating plastic debris which threaten birds and aquatic

ingested by organisms and accumulating within them,

It is not just in the oceans where plastic is an issue. During our

species when ingested. Sea turtles and black footed

the chemical dangers are also a great risk. Small pieces of

brief visit to a couple of locations on the Thames Estuary, we saw

albatross are two examples which are known to mistake the

degraded plastic are sometimes small enough to be able

lots of rubbish washed up on the shore of Gray’s beach and in

plastic debris for food. They eat the plastic and feed it to their

to absorb organic pollutants from sea water, causing toxic

the sediment in front of the concrete flood defence at Rainham

young. The plastic stays in their digestive systems and makes

effects to marine species and ultimately humans should they

Marsh. The majority seemed to be waste plastic bottles, caps

them feel full which results in them not eating and dying of

be ingested.

and other plastic packaging.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

48

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

“

The mere fact that [plastic] is indestructible meant that it could not be thrown away. Plastic manufacturers happily said, “Once you’ve used this, throw it away, discard it!”

There is no ‘away’. Because plastic is so permanent, and so indestructible that when you cast it into the ocean -or indeed into your dustbin- it does not go away.

”

Sir David Attenborough

Crossness Pumping Station

Rainham Marsh

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

Broadness Lighthouse

50

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Plastic

IN THE THAMES

A study by Royal Holloway University and the Natural History

consisting of cigarette butts, food wrapping and cups which

Museum, London confirms the presence of plastic waste

may have been blown or washed into the river down storm

in the River Thames. Though there is a visible amount of

drains.

plastic that floats on the water and washes up on the shores surrounding the river, there is a greater amount hidden

The Estuarial tide movements break up the plastic litter

beneath the surface. These present a concern not only for

into smaller fragments, and they degrade into small pieces,

ecosystems around the river but for the North Sea, in to

similar to the micro plastics in the ocean’s garbage patches.

“

The river is like a great big rubbish magnet

”

Robin Mortimer PLA Chief Executive

which the Thames flows.

Plastic has been found in lugworms, starfish, sea cucumbers and fiddler crabs. These act as prey for fish and birds which Over a period of three months, the study examined an area

means the plastics can be harmful to many different precious

of seven locations along the river bed of the upper Thames

species ingested further down the food chain along the

Estuary and collected more than 8000 pieces of plastic

Estuary. Fish have also been found to have knots of plastic

between Crossness and Broadness point

fibres in their digstive systems which is a cause for concern for the species and for humans who may consume them.

8490

The small nets used in the study are designed to capture Chinese mitten crabs. Due to this, plastic bags and other

PL ASTIC ITEMS CAUGHT IN THE STUDY

larger pieces of debris may have escaped the traps. Despite this, the study managed to collect 8490 pieces of plastic

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

51

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

5.

Solution

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

52

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

53

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Clean-up

O P E R AT I O N S

The Cleaner Thames Campaign is an initiative set up by the Port of London Authority to deal with the rubbish flowing through the River Thames. According to their campaign leader, explorer Paul Rose, the rubbish problem facing the Thames is very real and causing a considerable threat to marine life.

“Bag up your rubbish and make sure it’s disposed of properly.

If you don’t, the wind will snatch it and blow it along until it finds the water, stops dead and stays there. It only comes back out again when people like the Port of London Authority, Thames21 and their volunteers come along to take it, bag it, and recycle it. If it’s not recovered it ends up in the stomachs of seals, fish and other marine life in the river.”

Part of the initiative is the installation of so called ‘Passive Debris Collectors’ which essentially act as large rubbish bins floating in the water. They are designed to catch floating rubbish which might be harmful to wildlife before they flow down the river any further. I could install these passive traps to trap rubbish in the river and bring it into a sorting wing of

PA S S I V E D E B R I S C O L L E C T O R

the building to extract useful plastics for recycling.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

54

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

THE OCEAN CLEANUP CONCEPT The Ocean Clean-up operation is a conceptual project which aims to clean up the world’s oceans from within the huge ‘gyres’ of floating plastic known as garbage patches. This offers an alternative to using passive nets and trawling operations which are expensive and damaging to wildlife. The Ocean Clean-up operation has a central platform and two straight barriers projecting out either side of it. The barriersfilter the top 3m of the ocean, where it was discovered that the highest concentration of plastic debris exists. The main currents run deeper which means fish are not caught or threatened by the operation. The plastic is caught by the barriers and moved towards the platform by the oceans movement, where it is then extracted out of the water.

F L O AT I N G S E A B I N

Similarly, the Floating Seabin project aims to extract waste plastic floating on the surface of closed bodies of water where visible plastic pollution can accumulate easily.

The container floats on the surface of the water and sucks water through it thanks to a pump attached to the container. The container also contains a ‘catch bag’ that filters rubbish from the water as it passes through the container. The bag is designed to be periodically removed to allow the detritus to be emptied.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

55

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Alchemy

C AT C H & R E C Y C L E

In order to remove the useful plastic bottles from the waste collected in the traps in the water, the waste must be separated accordingly. As the shoe production only requires plastic bottles, the remainder of the waste can be collected and sent down the river to be processed at another facility. London’s unrefined waste is already shipped to the Thames Estuary on barges to be dealt with outside of the city. Alternatively, the waste could be sent to landfill directly adjacent to the site.

The rest of the waste is likely to be constituted of plastic as other rubbish items such as metal and glass Clean up devices capture floating

will most likely sink to the bottom of

debris in the Thames and this

the river.

is mechanically emptied onto a conveyer to take the waste into the facility.

The waste is placed into a vibrating inclined conveyor which separates out crisp packets, driftwood, organic waste, cardboard etc.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

56

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Magnets can then be used to determine if there is any metal left in the remaining waste and this can be separately bailed and sent down the river to a processing plant. If it is largely unrecyclable remaining waste, it can be put back with the originally separated waste and put into landfill.

Veolia Landfill Optical scanners can be used to identify the plastics and shoot them off the conveyor with a jet of hot air.

A D A P T E D M R F FA C I L I T Y Materials recovery facilities are processing plants which have the capability to separate mixed recycling into separate materials through mechanical and manual means. They are designed to separate domestic waste which enters in the form of paper, glass, aluminium, metal and plastic products. The processing that will take place in my project will take certain elements of this as the rubbish filtered out of the Thames will not all be domestic waste. The processes will create the forms of the industrial face of the architecture.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

57

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Rainham Marsh

1.

Clear PET (clear plastic drinks bottles)

2.

Natural PE and HDPE (milk cartons)

3.

PP (butter tubs/shampoo bottles)

4.

Mixed coloured PET (soft drinks bottles, fabric softner bottles)

5.

The PET is most desirable product as this is what can be most easily recycled back into useful polyester fibres.

Mixed coloured PE and HDPE (plastic bags, labels, tub lids)

6.

The remaining clear flake is mixed

Recovered plastics.

with light coloured plastics and

These fibres can be used to make polyester sheets for the

baked in an oven to dry for 10 hours

athletic shoe uppers.

Desired flakes are washed in caustic soda solution to remove any labels and glue. These are then skimmed off.

Sorting machine uses near infrared scanners

(NIR)

and

pneumatic

separation technology to separate different fractions of plastic.

Plastics are shredded into flakes to remove unwanted liquid left inside

This fluff is then ‘carded’ so that the

the plastic containers

fibres all lie in a similar direction to strengthen the material thick polyester felt.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

58

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Stings are heated and stretched to bond fibres. This is then shredded into raw polyester fluff.

The plastic is heated to 270 C to melt the plastic and extruded as long strings. This can then be refined as a 3D printing material

P O LY E S T E R FA B R I C The bobbins feed into a giant loom which, in a dramatic process, knits the threads together to form a sheet of polyester fabric.

The felt is then spun into threads that collect on large bobbins.

3 D P R I N T I N G M AT E R I A L

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

59

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

60

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

6.

Translation

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

61

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Key

3.

SHOE DESIGN LAB

An informal relaxation and meeting space serving as a ‘shop’ for customers wishing to have a bespoke pair of shoes. There will be a number of shoes on display around

S PA C E S

the room for inspiration and a series of computer screens will allow the customer to configure their shoe design in terms of colour or printing. Design experts will be on hand to work with the customer as they make their design.

4.

1.

3 D P R I N T I N G A N D M AT E R I A L S R E S E A R C H

B I O M E T R I C A N A LY S I S 1 - F O O T S C A N

It is here where the recycled material will enter as raw polyester and be processed into

A space will be devoted to recording the customers’ biometric data. A small space with

3D printing material. Materials research will be carried out by a team of scientists and

laser scanning machines and pressure feet pads will allow the customer’s foot shape

engineers in this space. This space will showcase the 3D printing of the shoe soles on

to be mapped. There will be some 3D printers to print off a replica of the foot for the

the edge of the lab for the customers to see. The customers can be invited to glimpse

customers enjoyment, before they are taken to the shoe assembly room.

their shoe getting 3D printed without having to enter the private lab space.

2.

5.

B I O M E T R I C A N A LY S I S 2 & P R O D U C T T E S T I N G - RUNNING TRACK

S H O E A S S E M B LY

The 3D printed soles will be sent from the shoe lab to the shoe assembly room. This will

Visitors will then be required to run along a track to analyse their gait. This could

be significantly larger than the 3D printing lab to accommodate the more industrial

be a full scale running track with customers running past light gates when they are

processes of the shoe production.

analysed. They will also be able to try out their new shoes on the running track once they have been fabricated so they can see if they are happy with the product.

This will have a lively community atmosphere and people will be able to engage with

Uppers are cut and stitched using industrial machinery and a degree of hand crafting in

each other in this large and playful space.

this space. It is important with the fine detail of work that enough light is brought into the space to be able to resolve detail at a fine enough scale. There will be an energetic atmosphere of production and craftsmanship.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

62

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

6.

EXTRACTING PL ASTIC

A space to accommodate a large conveyor of incoming waste that has been filtered out of the Thames water. I imagine this space would be unconditioned and slightly more ‘open to the elements’ as the waste enters from the outside. A team of people will be operating the recycling machinery and will stand by the conveyor to manually remove unwanted pieces which might have entered the refined waste proportion.

The architectural atmosphere will largely be determined by the machinery and the processes. Rubbish moving along conveyors with plastics being shot off with air jets makes for an exciting process which could be viewed from some public parts of the building through carefully placed windows.

7.

P O LY E S T E R P R O D U C T I O N

The complex process of creating polyester from plastic bottles will be the largest operation within the complex and will have the most exciting processes which I want to be celebrated. Drawing out strings of polyester strings can create interesting semi permeable thresholds between public and private. The dramatic process of the loom spinning together many spindles of thread could form an interesting centre piece of the public space. It will need to have a solid threshold from the public as it is a piece of moving machinery.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

63

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Precedents

Z E C H E Z O L LV E R E I N - OMA Zeche Zollverein renovation by OMA embodies the spirit of reinvention to preserve industrial heritage. The former coal refinery was part of the famously industrial Ruhr region of Germany, and when the industrial production in the region slowed, the coal refinery was left as a monument to the industrial power. The OMA scheme now reopens it as a museum but preserves the industrial character of the building in its entirety. This is something I wish to capture in the industrial parts of my building, to reflect the industrial heritage of the Estuary and show it can still be a productive force in the 21st Century.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

64

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

THAMES INDUSTRIAL STRUCTURES - VA R I O U S Various industrial jetties and pontoons along the Thames Estuary serve as a functional and aesthetic precedent for this project. The need to be able to move collected flotsam from the catchment area on the river to a processing facility that lies offshore would necessitate a conveyor on a jetty as a solution. Even if the refinement happens on a facility that sits literally above the water, the ability to bring in the refined waste and send out the finished products is reminiscent of the Ford Factory of Dagenham, which evokes a sense of reinvention for the estuary.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

65

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

TRANSIENT CONNECTIONS - R E A H B O OT H Student project River Tyne Aquatic Research and Education Centre interrogates the idea of cleaning the pollution out of the river and an architecture to suit that is built over the River Tyne itself. The language of the building shows an industrial faรงade with kinetic elements to the former industrialised hinterlands of Newcastle but offers a fixed, transparent faรงade to the country to maximise views. In my building I wish to create a similar dialogue where the industrial Thames is faced by a faรงade that indicates processes, manufacture and industry but a more refined and welcoming faรงade to the mainland so that visitors are not deterred and can enjoy an appropriately scaled entrance.

Additionally, the buildings construction over the water is something which could be suited to the clean-up operation of the Thames. Transient Connections also serves to clean up a major river and its location over the water helps it to achieve this. It engages the community with the project as well which is something I could include to perhaps ease unemployment or just to raise awareness in the region.

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

66

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Potential S I T I N G Veolia Landfill Waterfront

Grays beach Waterfront

Rainham Marsh Waterfront

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

67

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Rainham MARSH

Rainham Marsh provides an interesting site with very

dumping waste back into the Thames once the process has

get a significant number of customers into the building as it

close proximity to the estuary. The marshland’s edge

extracted the plastic, the river waste could go into landfill

is a remote location. Also the fact it is an industrial structure

condition takes the form of a concrete flood defence and

(providing it is unrecyclable). Also, the previous project

directly adjacent to the SSSI site is slightly contradictory (but

public pathway. During the previous project I focused on

could relate to the environmentally friendly aspect of this

then again, not unusual on the estuary).

the marshland itself but my site analysis threw out some

project, as it was concerned with recording and preserving

interesting aspects of the site. To the north is Veolia landfill

the ecosystems on the marsh. Perhaps the only reason not to

which is one of the largest landfills in the country. To avoid

choose the site is the fact that there might be a struggle to

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

68

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

69

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Grays

BEACH

Another potential site is Grays beach, a long stretch of sand,

the river might pick up more plastic before it reaches Grays,

rather than having to make a special trip to Rainham Marsh.

gravel and vegetation which is juxtaposed against the Port

making the project more effective. Additionally, the more

The existing industrial feel of the surroundings also seems to

of Tilbury and other industrial structures. The area is near to

urban context of the site will probably attract more people

make the project sit better than at Rainham.

the Thurrock campus of South Essex College which could tie

to it and educate the local community more effectively.

into the scheme to engage the local students by giving them

When people are having a day out at the nearby playground

manufacturing, management and design opportunities. The

or just having a walk along the waterfront, the project can

site is much further east than Rainham Marsh, which means

be an attraction to educate them whilst they are in the area,

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

70

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

71

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

References About the Florida Group. Manufacturer and retailer of ladies branded shoes (no date) Available at: http://www.floridagroup.co.uk/about/index.html (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

Alchemy (no date) in Oxford Dictionary. Available at: http://www.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/english/alchemy (Accessed: 27 January 2016).

Aldred, J. (2014) Plastic waste in the Thames will devastate marine life, report warns. Available at: http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2014/jan/02/plastic-wastethames-marine-life-report (Accessed: 20 January 2016).

Andy Warhol quotes at BrainyQuote (1987) Available at: http://www.brainyquote.com/quotes/authors/a/andy_warhol.html (Accessed: 19 January 2016).

Attewill, F. (2010) ‘Floating bin’ is moored on the river Thames. Available at: http://metro.co.uk/2010/06/30/aefloating-binae-is-moored-on-the-river-thames-428495/ (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

Bawden, T. (2015) Nine out of 10 flounder swimming in the Thames have plastic fragments in their guts, says research. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/ nine-out-of-10-flounder-swimming-in-the-thames-have-plastic-fragments-in-their-guts-says-research-a6677691.html#gallery (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

Comfort club - comfort club magazine (1959) Available at: http://www.hotter.com/gb/en/comfort-club/ComfortClubHome (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

Dagenham (2015) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dagenham#Economic_development (Accessed: 17 January 2016).

FEATURED PARLEY INITIATIVE (no date) Available at: http://www.parley.tv/oceanplastic/#oceanplastic1 (Accessed: 15 January 2016).

Great pacific garbage patch (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Pacific_garbage_patch#Estimates_of_size (Accessed: 20 January 2016).

Hall, M. M. (2006) Where does all our rubbish go?. Available at: http://www.independent.co.uk/environment/where-does-all-our-rubbish-go-465773.html (Accessed: 20 January 2016).

History (1948) Available at: http://www.normanwalshuk.com/page/history/ (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

Howarth, D. (2015) Adidas combines ocean plastic and 3D printing for trainers. Available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2015/12/12/adidas-ocean-plastic-3d-printing-ecofriendly-trainers/ (Accessed: 25 January 2016).

How does a material recovery facility (MRF) work? (2011) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7CFE5tD1CCI&list=LLwYS5Dq45B4zIntpZjCEOZA (Accessed: 25 January 2016).

Interactive, W. (2010) Presidents medals: Transient connections: River Tyne aquatic research and education centre. Available at: http://www.presidentsmedals.com/Entry-27091 (Accessed: 27 January 2016).

Jonathan Meades - the joy of Essex (29 January 2013) (2013) Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kzNSOhGcQts (Accessed: 16 January 2016).

Lindsey (2010) New floating rubbish collector for Thames. Available at: http://londonist.com/2010/07/new_rubbish_collector_for_thames (Accessed: 25 January 2016).

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

72

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Made in Britain (no date) Available at: http://britishfootwearassociation.co.uk/promotion/made-in-britain/ (Accessed: 19 January 2016).

Master 01 (no date) Available at: http://www.batamemories.org.uk/MAIN/ENG/00-EN-Pages/13-Subsidiaries.html (Accessed: 17 January 2016).

Master 01 (1933) Available at: http://www.batamemories.org.uk/MAIN/ENG/00-EN-Pages/00-EN-HOME.html (Accessed: 17 January 2016).

New balance (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Balance (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

Official Dr Martens store - UK | boots, shoes, leather bags & accessories (1914) Available at: http://www.drmartens.com/uk/ (Accessed: 21 January 2016).

PlasticOceans (2011) Sir David Attenborough talks about plastic pollution in our oceans. Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfDKEzPxhzQ (Accessed: 15 January 2016).

Port of Tilbury (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_of_Tilbury (Accessed: 17 January 2016).

Pro bike fitting (no date) Available at: http://www.planetx.co.uk/pro-bike-fit (Accessed: 24 January 2016).

Shoe (2016) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shoe (Accessed: 18 January 2016).

Thames estuary (2015) in Wikipedia. Available at: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thames_Estuary (Accessed: 17 January 2016).

Tucker, E. (2016) Floating Seabin prototype cleans oceans by filtering out rubbish. Available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2016/01/06/floating-seabin-prototype-pete-ceglinski-andrewturton-cleans-ocean-waste-indiegogo/ (Accessed: 25 January 2016).

UK household plastics collection survey 2015 - RECOUP recycling (2015) Available at: http://www.recoup.org/p/229/2015-uk-household-plastics-collection-survey (Accessed: 20 January 2016).

Veolia’s Magpie sorts over 760 tonnes of plastic bottles for reuse (2013) Available at: https://www.2degreesnetwork.com/groups/2degrees-community/resources/veolias-magpie-sorts-over760-tonnes-plastic-bottles-reuse/ (Accessed: 25 January 2016).

Where does your waste and recycling go? - household waste and recycling (no date) Available at: https://www.cityoflondon.gov.uk/services/environment-and-planning/waste-andrecycling/household-waste-and-recycling/Pages/Where-does-your-waste-go.aspx (Accessed: 16 January 2016).

Winston, A. (2015) The ocean cleanup aims to strip plastic from the sea. Available at: http://www.dezeen.com/2015/04/02/ocean-cleanup-boyan-slat-waste-designs-of-the-year-2015/ (Accessed: 25 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.bpf.co.uk/sustainability/plastics_recycling.aspx#identifyingplasticsmarkingsystemsforplasticsproducts (Accessed: 21 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.projectaware.org/update/scientists-uncover-hidden-river-rubbish-threatening-devastate-wildlife (Accessed: 20 January 2016).

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

73

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

Images ENVIRONMENT FIRST « Belu (no date) Available at: http://www.belu.org/environment/#recycled (Accessed: 21 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://static.bikehub.co.za/forum/uploads/gallery/album_1674/gallery_12909_1674_36335.png (Accessed: 24 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hLqu2L2AE6M/TkrICvYyV1I/AAAAAAAACF8/vbewLAlQf9E/s1600/100_1115.JPG (Accessed: 17 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://medievalisticals.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/sam_2528.jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/8/8b/Sandalias_del_Neol%C3%ADtico_de_Albu%C3%B1ol_(M.A.N._Inv._595_y_596)_01.jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_473nrD5vEv8/TPJht-hplbI/AAAAAAAAC_0/dyZ9R1f8mbc/s1600/cobbler.jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.shopofshoes.uk/ekmps/shops/ae0b0c/images/oxfords-not-brogues-with-leather-stitched-sole.-[3]-6201-p.jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ycpLRe4ADEo/THfWCy1-7CI/AAAAAAAAAsY/wRfUd_wKyYo/s1600/JOX+VINTAGE+ORIGINAL+70’s+MENS+RUNNING+SHOES. jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.rapidtags.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/ItalianCobbler001.jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.farida.co.in/Content/Companies/Farida-Classic.jpg (Accessed: 19 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://images.complex.com/complex/image/upload/t_in_content_image/IMG_9091_nqq6a2.jpg (Accessed: 20 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.systass.org/images/new-nhm-logo.gif (Accessed: 21 January 2016). (no date) Available at: https://www.royalholloway.ac.uk/iquad/documents/other/logos/large-london-black.jpg (Accessed: 21 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.joncruddas.org.uk/sites/joncruddas.org.uk/files/field/image/Ford_of_Britain_100__Image_of_the_week_-_21_52.jpg (Accessed: 17 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://archules.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/shoe-cross-section.png (Accessed: 24 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://s0.geograph.org.uk/geophotos/01/38/70/1387005_382c0fe6.jpg (Accessed: 17 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://preview.turbosquid.com/Preview/2014/07/09__10_23_50/foot_01.jpg8e96359f-ccb1-4d29-a2f5-0d4ba2b1315aOriginal.jpg (Accessed: 24 January 2016). (no date) Available at: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/25/I_eat_rubbish_-_river_Thames.JPG (Accessed: 25 January 2016). (no date) Available at: https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1329/1317674167_ddeaf3682a_b.jpg (Accessed: 26 January 2016).

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

74

- D A N I E L PA I G G E

(no date) Available at: http://www.theshoesnobblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/JFitzpatrick_Jeans_264.jpg (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.soletopia.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/dr-martens-croc-8-eye-streetstyle.jpg (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://a2.mzstatic.com/us/r30/Purple5/v4/2d/ac/de/2dacde29-5083-a2cb-ea24-3af6021dedc3/screen322x572.jpeg (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fa/IPhone_5.png (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://assets.inhabitat.com/wp-content/blogs.dir/1/files/2013/02/fishing-net-537x360.jpg (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.uregina.ca/kinesiology/facilities/assets/images/indoor_facilities/track%20straight%20away.jpg (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://web.tradekorea.com/upload_file2/sell/40/S00008440/PP_WOVEN_BAG_MACHINERY_NEW_6_SHUTTLE_CIRCULAR_LOOM.JPG (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://i1.wp.com/diversified-recycling.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/05/New-Recycle-Center-078.jpg (Accessed: 26 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://images.archant.co.uk/polopoly_fs/1.4386437.1453287974!/image/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_490/image.jpg (Accessed: 27 January 2016). (no date) Available at: https://joiningthedotsblogdotcom.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/p1020976.jpg (Accessed: 27 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://mylondondiary.co.uk/2006/05/11/060511_d0117.jpg (Accessed: 27 January 2016). (no date) Available at: http://www.presidentsmedals.com/showcase/2010/l/2709_12173806280.jpg (Accessed: 27 January 2016).

ESTURIAL ALCHEMY -

75

- D A N I E L PA I G G E