Issue 01 / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket - Issue 02 / December & January
.com
She’s Waiting Find out what she wants on page 54
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ISSUE 02 Foreword
ISSUE 02 Contents
10 King’s Cup Regatta
Features Credits Editor Supachart Ruamsamu supachart@AbsolutePhuket.com
Editor-in-Chief Dan White dan.white@AbsolutePhuket.com
Creative Director Matt O’Sullivan matt@open-up-ideas.com
Production Manager JP Boutet jpboutet@AbsolutePhuket.com
Finance Director Ian Stuart ian.stuart@AbsolutePhuket.com
CEO Bryan Lunt bryan.lunt@AbsolutePhuket.com
Publisher Absolute Group Design OPEN Advertising, Pattaya info@open-up-ideas.com
Printing Amarin PLC, Bangkok sale@amarin.co.th
Advertising Sales Sales Director Callum McKay callum.mckay@AbsolutePhuket.com Mobile 083 596 7537 Office 076 346 282
Foreword by Bryan Lunt Friends, readers, business partners and AbsolutePhuket ambassadors; it’s fantastic to have made our second edition and to have seen such a great response and appreciation for the first edition of AbsolutePhuket and we hope you enjoyed reading it, sharing it with friends, family and business associates worldwide. Try the new link www.AbsolutePhuket.com/sendtofriends and let your friends receive an online version of this second edition. The launch party was a fun event which will not be quickly forgotten thanks to everyone who was present, notably Phuket’s vice-governor K Warapot and the TAT Assistant Director Runjuan Tongrut who helped making the event a great success. For those that were not able to attend, don’t worry, there is much more to come! I would also like to let all of our readers know that we appreciate your suggestions as they will help us produce us continue to produce an excellent magazine in the future. Future. In order to facilitate your participation, we will be sending our readers by sending out a short survey. We truly want to continue to be your favourite Magazine and we want to hear from you! The high season for tourism is now upon us now and the number of flights arriving at the Phuket International Airport is increasing each day and we have all been awaiting this exciting time for many months. The excitement in Phuket is only beginning. All of us at Absolute would like to take this opportunity to wish you all an excellent high season, a very merry Christmas as well as a happy and prosperous New Year in 2008!
16 New Year Countdown
10 On
Phuket
16 On
Thailand
King’s Cup Regatta
20 Aspects
Thai Time
30 Alternative 30 Mysterious Amulets
64 Travel
Kuala Lumpur
Regulars 24 Food
Phuket Tourist Association
Paul Millist, Xmas Recipe, GINJA
40 Investment Bryan Lunt Chairman Absolute Group
64 Kuala Lumpur
Our Launch Party Street Sellers
08 Welcome
Best wishes,
Must Have Gadgets
Shoot
54 Survival
54 Street Sellers
Mysterious Amulets
34 Lifestyle 48 Photo
New Year Countdown
44 Business 53 Competition 59 Health
Kia Returns Win a Holiday for Two Chinese Medicine
69 Extravagance 74 Sport
Networking Works
Airbus A380 Buffalo Racing
74 Buffalo Racing
Cover Image Dan White
AbsolutePhuket is published by Sun Sea and Sand Co. Ltd. Registration Number 8837354810366. Registered Address 42/11 Taveewong Road, Kathu, Patong, Phuket. Design by OPEN Advertising Limited, Pattaya. Printed by Amarin Printing & Publishing PLC, Bangkok. All material is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior permission of the copyright holder. All information and data are correct at time of going to press.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Welcome Phuket Tourist Association
A High Season Welcome Maitree Narukatpichai, President of the Phuket Tourist Association, welcomes you as the high season begins.
As president of the Phuket Tourist Association it is with great pleasure that I introduce the second issue of AbsolutePhuket magazine. As the high season for tourism arrives, visitors from all over the world will be able to see our island through different eyes. The first edition has been very successful and it is great to see people all over the island taking interest. The Phuket Tourist Association (PTA) has been in existence for 30 years and now includes over 300 members, including tour companies, restaurants, dive shops and hotels. In our efforts to promote tourism and business development for all our members and ultimately the entire island, we welcome this young but vibrant publishing venture with open arms. AbsolutePhuket magazine is a breath of fresh air as it offers something new to readers and has proved to be a useful venue for businesses to promote themselves. The Phuket Tourist Association also welcomes the arrival of this new publication as it presents Phuket as a multicultural and tolerant society that blends many different religious and ethnic groups living and prospering together. Upcoming high season events such as the Phuket King’s Cup Regatta, Asia’s premier yachting event help keep Thailand at the forefront of tourism and it’s a delight to see AbsolutePhuket give them excellent coverage. I am confident that future editions of AbsolutePhuket magazine will be as entertaining and enlightening as ever and I wish this new publication continued success. AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
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Some other regattas from around the world The America’s Cup
The most famous sailing race worldwide, formerly known as the Hundred Guinea Cup. Dating back to 1852 it started with the New York Yacht Club and has been the scene of Trans Atlantic rivalry for generations.
Balmain Sailing Cup
The oldest Regatta in Australia, it was first held in 1848 but became extinct during the First World War. Revived in 1996, it’s is a premier event for dinghy and skiff racing.
Cowes Week
Majestic Sailing in Phuket This December sees Asia’s biggest sailing event reach its 20th anniversary, The Phuket King’s Cup Regatta. It is a chance to see some of the world’s most accomplished yachtsman race in some of the world’s most spectacular waters. The Phuket King’s Cup Regatta is Asia’s biggest and most popular sailing bonanza. This year is the 20th anniversary of this world class sailing event which came into being in 1987 in honour of His Majesty the King of Thailand. His Majesty is himself a very accomplished sailor. This year yachtsmen and women from around the world will be joining the nation in celebrating his Majesty’s 61st year as king of Thailand, the worlds longest reigning monarch. They will also be celebrating his 80th birthday on December 5th 2007. With Royal Patronage, the regatta Organizing Committee under the auspices of the Royal Varuna Yacht Club, in conjunction with the Yacht Racing Association of Thailand, the Royal Thai Navy and the province of Phuket. The annual Phuket King’s cup Regatta has grown from a small mostly locally-contested regatta to become Asia’s premier yachting challenge. Last year, media interest was intense with journalists attending from around the world including the UK, Gibraltar, Chile, Hong-Kong, Australia, Italy, the US, China, Turkey, Singapore, Spain, Japan and Germany.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Even though the Andaman Sea is a paradise of tropical yachting waters, the growth of the regatta remains quite an achievement. This year, sailors and yachts from all over the world including one of the first competitive teams from the Chinese mainland will take to the beautiful waters surrounding Phuket. Most contestants from last year’s regatta are also returning this year. Racing-class boats from Hong-Kong, Malaysia, the Philippines, Singapore and Australia are all lined up. In 2006, over a hundred boats and a thousand sailors entered the races and this year should easily match that. Not only will the participants be sailing, they will also be enjoying some of the extensive festivities that will be ongoing after the event. Although the maritime competition is intense after the race is finished sailors from around the world swap stories and anecdotes (although rarely nautical secrets) at a round of parties in some of the island’s top resorts. So if your pleasure is fresh air, first rate sailing, beautiful settings, fine food and great entertainment it might be time to hit the Regatta.
Held at the start of August this is a major date in the social calendar of the UK. 8,500 competitors take part. Originating with George IV in 1826 it is now one of the most glamorous regattas in the world.
Tjörn Runt
Tjörn Runt is an annual long distance race around the island of Tjörn in Sweden. The race has been held on the third Saturday of August every year since 1964. About 1,000 sailing boats sail the 52 Km around the island every year.
Ronde om Texel
The Ronde om Texel (Round Texel) is a regatta for catamarans around the island of Texel in The Netherlands. First held in 1978, since then the race grown into the biggest catamaran race in the world with an annual average of 600 catamarans participating.
Long Beach Race Week
The final leg of the major Southern California regattas, Ahmanson Cup and Cal Race Week, after a 20 year run, Long Beach Race Week has taken the role of the preeminent regatta in Southern California.
Images: Rick Tomlinson / Guy Nowell / Palani Mohan/Getty
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On Phuket King’s Cup Regatta
On Phuket King’s Cup Regatta
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
Imagine enjoying complimentary green fees for golf at Thailand’s top golf courses and complimentary spa treatments at more than 50 of Thailand’s top spas. For life. Imagine being met by a Thailand Elite representative each time you arrive in Thailand and whisked away to the exclusive Thailand Elite lounge, while your luggage is collected for you. Then being fast-tracked through a special immigration and passport control channel, before being chauffeur driven by limousine from the airport to your place of accommodation. Imagine having a special renewable 5 year multiple-entry visa for Thailand so you can come and go whenever you want, and stay for as long as you like. And what better way to meet high-level business contacts than with access to Bangkok’s most exclusive executive club. Thailand Elite also provides a complimentary annual medical check-up for members at any of 11 international standard hospitals. This is what it is like to be a Thailand Elite member. Operated by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) with privileges made possible with the Thai government's full support, Thailand Elite is the world’s most prestigious country club. Lifetime membership is THB 1M (approx. US$31,000) valid until December 31st 2007. To become a member of the world's most exclusive country club call your Authorised Thailand Elite Representative on +66 (0)81 787 2007 or email ThaiElite@DLOR.net to find out more.
Complimentary green fees for golf at the leading golf courses in Thailand Complimentary spa treatments at more than 50 of Thailand's top spas Special renewable 5 year multiple entry visa, extended stay without leaving the country VIP expedited immigration and passport control Airport two-way limousine transfer service Access to Bangkok's premier executive club Complimentary premium annual medical check-up at top international standard hospitals 24 hour assistance through Thailand Elite’s Member Contact Centre
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December 2007 event calendar
January 2008 New Year Resolution ideas
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
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On Thailand New Year Countdown
Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai
On Thailand New Year Countdown
A woman takes time for prayer
A hug with Santa Claus
Bangkok preparing for a busy night in the city
A man cycles to work in Surin
Revellers on Koh Samui watch fireworks
New Perspectives Thailand may be a mainly Buddhist nation, but Thai people love a celebration. All over the country people join in the festivities, from Chiang Mai in the North to Hat Yai in the far South. Christmas and New Year are nearly upon us. Although Thailand is a mainly Buddhist country, both festivals are celebrated with real enthusiasm. It is a sign of the country’s cosmopolitan and outward looking nature. In shopping plazas all over Thailand a Santa Claus of some sort makes an appearance and often you will hear choirs singing Christmas carols. It may be a tall order to think of snow when the temperature rarely falls below 30 degrees Celsius but that doesn’t put a damper on the festivities. Where did we get some of those strange Christmas customs that have become so popular here? Decorating our homes with holly, for example came from Roman times when Christians wishing to celebrate the birth of Jesus had to do perform their in secret. As a camouflage, they garlanded their doors with holly, the decoration used by Romans for their festival of Saturnalia which was celebrated at the same time. Mistletoe comes to us from the pagan druids, who regarded it as a sacred plant. AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
They made sure that it never touched the ground, and dedicated it to the Goddess of Love, which explains why people kiss under it. There may not be any snow in Thailand but that doesn’t prevent department stores from turning up the air conditioning really high so as to make shoppers suitably chilly. In Thailand Christmas and New Year are actually more about shopping than tradition, but most of all they are an excuse for a party, parties being a signature of the Thai way of life. Diversity is the common theme as the Kingdom counts down to New Year. Each region sends off the past year and greets the new in its own unique way, reflecting local cultural flavours. As the New Year party ends, many head for the temples for merit-making to ensure that a bright and happy future is in store. If Shopping is your passion, By night Bangkok is the place to be. The ‘Bangkok Shopping Streets Festival’ offers a vast selection of interesting gifts. Best buys and festive season promotional offers are
Each region sends off the past year and greets the New Year in its own unique way An illuminated Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok
Koh Lipe enjoys a beautiful sunset
well-received by local and international shopaholics. Bangkok’s streets are transformed into a magical wonderland by night. Gardens, shopping malls and plazas, department stores, hotels, banks, office buildings, pedestrian bridges and the maze of interconnected elevated walkways and islands in the middle of town are decorated with thousands of colourful decorative lights that twinkle throughout the night. Towering Christmas trees, elegantly decorated in a variety of contemporary and conventional styles, are the unmistakable ‘stars’ of the dazzling ‘Night Light in Bloom’ festive extravaganza. Tourists and Bangkok residents queue up to be photographed with any number of Santa impersonators. On the roads around the Erewan shrine crowds gather lo listen to Christmas carols. In Bangkok Christmas is celebrated with real glamour and energy. The northern capital of Chiang Mai celebrates Christmas with a food festival featuring local cuisine and cooking from the four regions of Thailand, plus Japanese, Korean, French and Vietnamese cuisine as well as presentations reflecting folk culture. At the Entertainment Plaza musicians perform traditional Lanna music as well as contemporary pop. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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On Thailand New Year Countdown
Candles are lit all around the world for Christmas Every Christmas carols are sung all over Bangkok
Wat Arun, Bangkok
Fisherman start the day off the coast of Koh Lanta
The Mekong river in the north east
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
At the other end of the country in, Hat Yai, the New Year celebrations include a ‘Miss Night Paradise and Countdown 2008’ beauty contest, concerts and stage performances. Guest artists from Malaysia and Singapore join their Thai counterparts. School marching bands, the ‘Street Carnival’ and a myriad of stage activities add colour to the events. Ubon Ratchathani, the Emerald Triangle, in the far east of the country, is the first province in the kingdom to greet the sunrise. Its rugged but extraordinary landscape is punctuated by craggy cliff-faces, rocky terrain dotted with towering columns, odd-shaped rock formations and torrential cataracts along the Mekong River. It is home to two national parks, Pha Taem National Park and Kaeng Tana National Park. Both offer excellent vantage points for viewing sunrise or sunset against a magnificent backdrop. The New Year Countdown at Pha Taem National Park offers a truly unique cultural experience. As the golden rays of sunset retreat behind the curtain of night, a warm orange glow lingers in the sky. Folk music and cultural performances entertain guests as they await the Countdown and hold their all night vigil to greet Thailand’s New Year sunrise. The vigil ends with merit-making. Along the banks of the Mekong River in Mukdahan, where the new bridge to Laos was recently opened,
Folk music and cultural performances entertain guests as they await the Countdown there is a Thai-Indochina Food Festival with lively cultural presentations and folk performances by local tribes celebrating centuries of shared cultural heritage. Christmas and New Year may be a foreign import but in Thailand, where ever you go, people have made it their own. It may not be strictly the same as in the countries where it was born, but one thing remains the same. Above all Christmas and New Year in Thailand is a period of goodwill which ever God you may pray to. In every seaside tourist resort all over the country holiday makers flock to the beaches, coming from cold winters in Europe and America. Although they may be wearing shorts and T-shirts they are still able to celebrate Christmas in the traditional way. Whether it is in Phuket, Krabi, Samui or Pattaya local businesses put on Christmas feasts that cater to the various traditions of their home countries.
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aspects Thai Time
aspects Thai Time
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Bangkok traffic is notoriously bad. Quite possibly the worst traffic of any major city around the World.
Shopping is the number one reason women are late
The Best five reasons to be late 1. Traffic whether on Thai time or not. 2. Talking on the mobile whilst driving, missing the turning and nearly having an accident whilst doing an illegal U-turn. Mai Pen Rai. 3. Snacking and yet more snacking. 4. Being jumped by wild, clipboard wielding midgets whilst ambling through Big C. 5. Scary Police checkpoints. Yet more clipboards. No midgets in site.
The worst five reasons to be late 1. The traffic… Bangkok maybe, but in Chiang Rai you might be pushing it. 2. Sickness, hospital appointments?… Get a grip! 3. Spouse using car to go to Big C where she was ambushed by yet more wild midgets. 4. I thought you were coming here? 5. I’m early. I’m supposed to be here next week.
Delayed is the new late First time visitors often comment on the laid back quality of life in Thailand. Jerry Hopkins looks into how Western culture and Thai culture sees time differently. Nittaya Phanthachat, a friend who stayed with me from time to time when she was visiting Bangkok (she had a home in Chonburi), told me one morning as she left my flat that she’d be back in time for us to have dinner together. She called at four o’clock and said she was running late, but promised to be back at eight. We still had time for dinner. No problem. She finally showed up two days later. Was I angry? No, not really. I was concerned about her safety and health, as anyone might be, but the worry, if that’s the correct word, was tempered by the knowledge that Thais don’t have the same concept of time that westerners do. In fact, not only is it different, to what many of us raised in the West are used to, it makes no sense at all. It is as if we had suddenly woken up on a planet that moved around the Sun at an unfamiliar speed, with, literally, a different sense of gravity. AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Consider being on Mercury. Mercury moves with great dispatch in its journey around the Sun, averaging approximately thirty miles a second and completing its circuit in about eighty-eight Earth days. Yet, this tiniest planet and the closest in the solar system to the Sun, rotates upon its axis so slowly, the time from one sunrise to the next is equal to about one hundred and seventy six days on Earth. Try setting your Swatch or Rolex to that. And think about how long Happy Hour might be. Compared to Mercury’s, Nittaya’s sense of time was easy to grasp. I’d moved to Thailand after living for many years in Hawaii, where there was something called ‘Hawaiian time,’ a complex system of measuring the duration of all existence, past, present, and future, that was defined by a single word. Late. So, ‘Thai time’ was just another excuse. Yes?
That’s the farang point of view, of course. Hawaiians are never late, according to ‘Hawaiian time.’ Identically, Thais are never late. They’ve merely been delayed, or perhaps distracted. The ancient Greeks, in whom farangs perhaps put too much faith, advised us to be “ruled by time, the wisest counsellor of all” and while that may have worked in ancient Greece and back home in the 21st century United States, as any fool knows, Greek thought is not included in the Thai primary school curriculum. End of discussion. A little harder to grasp is the Thai’s understanding of ‘time’ as a concept. For this part of my tale, you need some patience, and perhaps a beer or a nice cuppa tea, so put this magazine down and get the drink of your choice. Take your time! Then take a deep breath and for just a minute, no longer, I promise, let me turn you over to William J. Klausner, a farang who came to Thailand in 1955, lived for a year in a village in Issan, was an editor of the annual publication of the Buddhist Association of Thailand, and taught at both Thammasat and Chulalongkorn Universities. A wise man. “One of the central concepts of Buddhist philosophy is anicang: the transitory nature of the material world in which we live; the uncertainty and impermanence of all,” he wrote in Reflections on Thai Culture (1981). “The Thai version of mañana, the tried and true answer to failed appointments and the lack of successful and timely task completion, is mai pen rai, or ‘it is nothing,’ ‘never mind,’” he continued.
“Sociologists have referred to the present-oriented aspect of Thai behaviour and personality. Certainly, the Thai find more psychological fulfillment in the chase than in the attainment. It is the voyage, the journey that is fun; the end result is less important. Thus, one shouldn’t be too concerned if one is some minutes or some hours late.” Did everybody follow that? Mai pen rai. It all has to do with Oriental thought, and most specifically the Buddhist vision of constant and cosmic flow. That thing about the wheel that keeps turning without any real beginning and end. I don’t know
It is the voyage, the journey that is fun; the end result is less important for sure, but this may be one of the reasons the Thai language doesn’t have any tenses, and for that alone I’m grateful. While English speakers have the audacity to include such things as ‘past perfect’ and ‘future perfect’ but no ‘present perfect’ in the way they speak. If you ask me, it’s not a matter of Thai time making no sense, it’s the other way around. As for my friend Nittaya, she’d just run into some friends with whom she caught a bus to Bang Saen for a day at the beach. So her return to my flat two days late merely meant we had dinner on Tuesday instead of Sunday. No problem. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Food Paul MillIst
Food XMAS RECIPE
Marriot Masterclass Paul Millist, Chief Executive Chef at the JW Marriott Phuket is a great enthusiast of Asian food and Asia in general. There are many great restaurants in Phuket and some of them are well known and easy to find. However, there are also many excellent places that are not so well known but remain worthy of recognition. Some of them are located in secluded high end resorts. One of these secluded resorts that offers a number of noteworthy tables is the J.W Marriott Phuket. Throughout this large resort complex well hidden in seaside jungle are seven varied eateries ranging from Thai to Italian to Japanese. It is executive chef Paul Millist who runs this very large and disparate food and beverage operation. Apart from being a food enthusiast in general he is also enthusiastic about recent worldwide trends that have seen Asian food come to the fore and be recognised and embraced globally. Aged 37, Paul has been involved in culinary arts for nearly a quarter of a century. After being inspired by both his grandmother and his mother he knew that food was what interested him most. He enjoyed creating new dishes and, knowing that the industry would permit him to travel all over the world, he went on to take a standard four year training course in his home town of Melbourne. When he graduated twenty years ago the state of the culinary arts was far different to what it is now. At the time there was a heavy European influence in all institutes and Asian cooking was only starting to become popular in western countries. For example, Shitake mushrooms, a popular ingredient that is now available the world over, were then only just hitting the AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
market. Nonetheless, being surrounded by many Asians in Australia, Paul was quickly seduced by the mystique and flavours of Asian food. This guided him to indulge a lifelong passion for Asian food and Asia in general, working all over the region before settling in Thailand. According to Paul, the reasoning behind choosing to work for Marriott is quite simple. The standards of quality are high. Since Marriott is well established and has to maintain an already excellent reputation in a very competitive market, they want to offer the best possible quality in cuisine to their guests. This means that ingredients have to be the finest quality before staff even think about preparation. In certain cases it is necessary to import some things, such as Japanese Wagyu or Kobe beef, since Thailand isn’t well known for its high grade beef. The same goes for seasonal items that might not be available all year round. On the other hand, Phuket and Thailand has an almost unparalleled selection of fresh seafood and fruit. This emphasis on freshness and utilizing local ingredients has a heavy influence on dish creation and menu design, which tends to change 2 to 3 times per year in every restaurant found in J.W Marriott Phuket. Like other great chefs, Paul also believes that while freshness and flavours are very important, presentation also says a lot about the thought and creativity behind any restaurant. Having a host of other skilled international chefs on hand helps him to come up with new menus that keep up the momentum on quality. Customers generally just enjoy.
Xmas beef medallions with Shiraz sauce INGREDIENTS 2 beef medallions slice of foie gras spinach potatoes shiraz sauce
instructions 125gm 50gm 20gm 125gm 100ml
Prepare potatoes Anna by layering sliced potato in a buttered baking dish. Bring some cream and garlic to the boil remove from heat and season. Pour onto potatoes and bake in 180°C oven for 50 minutes. Remove from oven and allow to cool completely weighted down with something heavy. Cook beef medallions on a hot grill to desired doneness and let rest. Once the beef has been taken off the grill for a minute or two, collect the juices that seep from the medallions. Sear the foie gras quickly with a table spoon of melted butter to warm through. Once warm, remove the foie gras from the pan, incorporate the beef juices along with a cup of Shiraz wine, deglaze and bring the sauce to a boil for 2 minutes, the sauce has been reduced to the desired thickness. Once all ingredients are ready, place re-heated potatoes Anna on a warm plate and top with sautÊed spinach. Place medallions beside and top with foie gras and shiraz sauce and voila! Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Food GINJA
Seriously Fun
Images: Dan White
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Food GINJA
Most importantly, people taking the course are taught not to get too frustrated or disappointed when they make a mistake or ruin a dish. “Even some great chefs make mistakes,” says Tan. Some professional chefs also take the course whether it’s in order to learn the intricacies of Thai cuisine, new ways to use spice or even just to be able to cook in an informal atmosphere. Tan is as hot on people skills as she is on cooking. Some particularly skilled students who may already be professionals in their own right can go behind the scenes and get a feel for the action in the main kitchens. As students come from all over the world, Tan says she also gets to learn from them. “It is a two way street. I learn a lot about cooking from many countries.” Chef Tan is quick to instill important basic safety values. “You need to have respect and care for your knife and it will take care of you.” Quite a few unexpected things happen during some of the classes. This may be because the kitchen area is home to a fully equipped bar and some don’t only use the alcohol for the sauces. Sometimes People do strange things towards the end of the class and the end of the bottle.” She laughs as she recalls a past student preparing the famous spicy papaya salad, and mixing it with all sorts of foreign ingredients and frying it up in the wok. Many of the students also talk amongst themselves and forget that they have something cooking and it goes up in flames or at least becomes a blackened
and inedible failure. It doesn’t matter though. For the instructor, as long as people are having fun, don’t damage themselves or set the kitchen on fire, it’s quite alright. Food is fun. Ginja Cook offers various types of signature courses that range from cooking for romance, cooking for families to cooking for business lunches. Everyone receives a Thai cook book and other souvenirs. Class normally begins at 8am with students being taken to bustling local markets where they are shown how to select meat, vegetables, spice and rice. Lunch is served when they return. Once students are shown how it should taste the cooking begins. At the class we attended Tan effortlessly demonstrated how to prepare curried shrimps whilst both managing to explain in detail what she was doing whilst simultaneously keeping up a stream of banter. Answering questions as she goes the dish soon appears. A fragrant and swift culinary triumph. As those in the class start to try their hand at the same thing gentle guidance is delivered. Ingredients are explained and corrections are made. Every now and then Tan takes the knife or spoon to demonstrate. The final results may not be as superb as Tan’s initial creation, but all agree that by the end of the lesson the foundations of culinary knowledge have been laid and it will then come down to practice. Most importantly no one there can stop laughing as Tan gently makes fun of the next person in the queue.
The art of cooking can be quite daunting. Chef Tan adds fun to the recipe so new students learn to enjoy cooking. As combinations go excellent food and untrammeled laughter is a pretty good one. When you add to that the gift of learning it comes as no surprise to discover that people are queuing up to learn the culinary arts from Pinnap Tataisong, or Tan for short. She is the chief instruction chef at the Ginja school of cooking situated in the grounds of the JW Marriott resort in the northern end of Phuket. With nearly as many one liners as Woody Allen she takes students through all the skills of Thai cooking. People decide to attend Tan’s classes for a number of reasons apart from her ability to put a smile on their faces. Some do it because they are becoming more health conscious. All over the world people are starting to pay more attention to their diet and Thai food is renowned for being light, colourful, AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
healthy, and most of all, delicious. As Tan puts it, “wellness is the theme for food these days.” Many of the students are actually men as more husbands are showing significant interest in learning how to cook. Tan puts this down to a desire for household harmony although, as ever, she says it with a smile and a twinkle of the eye. In general, everyone taking the class learns something. Some students learn basic things such as stirring techniques when preparing a sauce, for others its how to properly cut meat and vegetables, how to make art out of your food, or even how to use different heat settings in order to get different tastes and effects. Although in some ways Thai dishes can be very quick and simple to prepare precision is as important as speed. “Sometimes simplicity is complicated,” points out Tan. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Alternative Mysterious Amulets
Alternative Mysterious Amulets
Images: Dan White
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The more you wear the better your luck
The reverse side may show a man standing, or instead display a sun or moon emitting rays, or 12 cosmological signs. There is debate as to what the amulets actually represent. Some insist Jatukam Ramathep are the names of two princely brothers who lived in this region hundreds of years ago. Others believe Jatukam Ramathep is one person, perhaps King Chandrabhanu, who ruled much of Southeast Asia during the ancient Srivijaya kingdom. Others insist the person on the amulet is a potential Buddha, or perhaps a Hindu deity. Although laymen are not excluded from making amulets their manufacture is largely in the hands of older monks. In order to make a pressed or printed image, commonly known as ‘phra phim’, a monk needs a mould, a recipe, proper ingredients, as well as considerable knowledge of spells, sacred scripts and magical drawings. Not everyone agrees that the amulets are a positive thing. Frenzy over the amulets, and concern over the purity of Thailand’s Buddhism, coincide with an
The Medallion Mystery A craze for mystical medallions has swept Thailand in recent years. A combination of religion, superstition and money where financial worth is driven by spiritual power. Richard S. Ehrlich looks into the enigma. In every town and village in Thailand you will see people wearing elaborate pendants containing religious symbols encased in precious metal. Some will wear as many as five or six. There are huge areas of every market place devoted to the trade in these mysterious objects. Millions upon millions of Thai baht changes hands every year as people trade money for luck. These bling-sized medallions, or Jatukam Ramathep amulets, represent powerful magic. When a fresh batch of went on sale in April, buyers stampeded, trampling a woman to death. Thieves have infiltrated shops, homes and temples to steal the lucrative charm. It is recorded that Jatukam amulet sales may have reached 1.7 billion baht during the past two years. In the centre of the cookie-sized amulet, a man in traditional regalia sits in a meditative pose, left hand on his knee, and right hand held shoulder-high, palm outward. Variations can include one or two dragons behind him, or a multi-headed serpent, or a surrounding ring of Hindu deities. Medallions come in red, white, black, silver or gold. AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
These are classic Jatukam Ramathep amulets
Serious collectors inspect the amulet in detail
ongoing public debate about how Buddhists should behave. The amulet market is controlled by the Buddhists’ Ecclesiastical Council in Thailand, and allows temples to gain millions of dollars, tax-free. Thailand’s Supreme Patriarch announced in April he will stop providing materials from his temple to make Jatukam amulets, but declined to specify why. His temple earlier provided sacred ash from burnt incense, coloured powder from bricks used in temple construction, and other Buddhist-related material to make thousands of Jatukam amulets. Most Jatukam amulets have been made with the blessing of Wat Phra Mahathat Woramahawiharn, the Supreme Patriarch’s temple in southern Thailand’s Nakhon Si Thammarat city. When the amulets’ price recently soared, dealers throughout Thailand rushed Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Alternative Mysterious Amulets
Alternative Mysterious Amulets
For many they are both collector’s items and a cosmic insurance scheme
Deciding what amulet you want can be challenging as there are quite literally hundreds to choose from
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
to set up stalls next to the temple, hoping to get the newest versions. For many they are becoming a dangerous obsession. Crowds crushed a woman to death, and injured about a hundred others when thousands of people ran toward a school in Nakhon Si Thammarat to buy the amulets. In the same town, during March, an amulet-collecting woman used her husband’s 9-mm pistol to kill a man allegedly breaking into her home along with three other criminals, who fled into the night. Never the less for many they are both collector’s items and a cosmic insurance scheme. “Most people request the Jatukam amulets because it is good for business, good for your family, and good for your life,” said Hua Pongsak, an amulet shopkeeper offering a selection priced at 700 baht to 2,500 baht each. The first Jatukam amulet was reportedly made in Nakhon Si Thammarat in 1987, to raise funds for the city’s shrine. Originally selling for about 50 baht, those early medallions now list for 70,000 to 955,000 baht. More than 100 versions of the Jatukam amulet now appear in shops throughout Thailand, and competition among sellers is fierce. Some versions include tempting names, such as the expensive ‘Arch-Millionaire’ and ‘Money Pouring In’ series. One amulet enthusiast explains the attraction. “It is like if you already have 70 million baht. It is enough, but won’t you then want 140 million baht? I observed my life before I bought this amulet, and compared what happened after I bought it, and I saw my business became better and my family life became better.”
Sculptors, who create a unique mould to cast the amulet in a clay-like material, make hundreds of baht by designing new versions. Printers are churning out colour brochures, vinyl-covered posters, and other displays to advertise the amulets. Web sites, including Uamulet.com, offer the amulets online. Ebay is flooded. Clothing vendors print Jatukam’s portrait on T-shirts, while metalworkers produce the amulet as a thin bronze coin. Other profiteers include producers of raw materials to make the amulets, organisers of blessing rituals, and distributors. Jatukam also appears on ‘incantation cloth’, which is usually a rectangle of inexpensive cotton, illustrated with a wood-block printed image. Temples, making cash by manufacturing the amulets, pump the money into the local economy by hiring construction crews to build Buddhist shrines, stupas and schools.
A sub-economy where financial worth is dictated by spiritual power and driven by profound belief Superstition is a part of the Thai way of life. For example some people rub Johnson’s baby powder on trees, until they can see a number in the powdered bark’s three-dimensional surface. That number will then be used when gambling on the lottery. Successful gamblers will then return to the tree and offer it alcohol, soft drinks, flowers, plastic dolls, frilly nylon sashes, or other tributes in thanks. In some ways the amulets are simply part of a pre-Buddhist culture. A tough guy may strut the streets with a necklace weighted down by several big amulets, as if to proclaim his celestial powers and intimidate people who might harm him. Others keep their amulet collections at home in velvet-lined boxes. Many people have modest collections and depend on amulets as a form of spiritual backup, to fill any supernatural loopholes not fully protected by Buddhism. Christian, Jewish and other non-Buddhist foreign tourists often buy amulets and wear them as souvenir jewelry. Whether the amulet is seen as a religious icon, a pagan charm or simple decoration there is no doubt that it has become an art form in itself. A sub-economy where financial worth is dictated by spiritual power and driven by profound belief. Whether you believe in it as heavenly protection bringing ultimate serenity and peace, a holiday souvenir or maybe simply as a wise financial investment there is no doubt that the amulet is here to stay. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Lifestyle Must Have gadgets
Lifestyle Must Have gadgets
Nintendo Wii Sony PSP
Having been around for 2 years already, a slimmer lighter version is out now. This is power gaming on the go with the ability to play with other PSP’ers and surf the internet using the wifi connection. You can also watch movies and listen to music… rock on.
Toys for Boys
This is the baby of the home console wars and is really the winner. It has taken the world by storm with its motion sensor controller, has brought real fun to every family that owns one and exercise back into a generation of couch potatoes. And its cheaper than the Xbox and the PS3.
No matter how young or old, men never grow up AbsolutePhuket highlights the electronic gadgets that are wanted by boys across the globe.
Apple iPhone
Already on sale throughout America and Europe, expected to be on sale throughout Asia early 2008. The smart phone that is getting the whole world hyped costs more than most other phones. Why? The reason could be the simple and very powerful multi-touch user interface, that integrates mobile phone with music player with video device and syncs seamlessly with your other Apple devices like their cool MacBook range of laptops. Its weakness at the moment is the lack of 3G and the 2 megapixel camera which could do with changing on it’s next release. This is without doubt the icon for the noughties, it will be a symbol of the moment buttons will be phased out.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Sony Playstation 3
This is the beast in the console wars. In November 2007 it set a world record in networked processor power. Each machine has 12 processors and almost 750,000 machines were all crunching numbers at the same time. This is a very powerful games console, and next year you will see some amazing things when new titles come out that really show it for what it is. Also under the rather large hood is a hard disk for downloading games, movies or music. It has wifi, is HD ready and has the next-gen BluRay drive. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Lifestyle Must Have gadgets
Lifestyle Must Have gadgets
Canon DSC N1 Nikon D40 DLSR
Could be the smallest, lightest, easiest DSLR camera Nikon have made. The 6.1 megapixel camera takes SD, shoots in RAW or JPEG, has a 2.5-inch display, and comes bundled with an 18-55mm f/3.55.6G ED II AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor lens. This is ideal for those that don’t want too be seen with a point and click and has enough cred with serious photographers. Now get out and take pictures of lovely women like your life depended upon it.
Apple MacBook
Apple have made the laptop rugged, cool and an all-in-one media centre that syncs seamlessly with all your other mac gadgets from the iPod to the iPhone to Apple TV. Ot has a built-in camera that works with iChat but can also work with Yahoo and Skype. The ease of use found with the Apple OSX will make you drop your PC in a blimp, and you’ll wonder why you didn’t do it sooner. As with all things great there is always a catch, and with Apple it is the price. More expensive but in this case you do get what you pay for. AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Sony’s rolling out this powerful 8 megapixel Cybershot that packs a 3-inch touch screen interface. Touch screen is becoming all the rage, so why not a camera. It can store up to 500 images internally plus has the usual Memory Stick slot. It’s also doing 3X optical and 6X digital zooms. This is the ideal camera for the lazy bloke that finds pushing buttons just too much effort. He’ll be so lazy, he’ll get someone else to take the pictures while he’s playing GTA on the PS3. Hero!
HTC Touch Cruise
If somehow you are not an Apple fanboy and would like to know who else manufactures touch screen gadgets, well meet the HTC Touch Cruise. It uses their already established TouchFLO interface and is GPS-enabled. It also packs HSDPA, WiFi, Bluetooth, a 3 megapixel camera, microSD expansion, and a 2.8-inch touch-screen lying on top of a Windows Mobile 6 foundation. Oh, and it’s loaded with TomTom Navigator 6 software to make the most of that GPS receiver. If the Apple fanboys give you any stick, tell them to get lost and see where the iPhone will get them then. Ha. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Investment Networking works
Investment Networking works
Networking Works Business and trade works on ease of contact and efficiency of communication. Direct and personal networking not only makes that easier but opens doors to new opportunities. Denny Bowman talks to AbsolutePhuket.
Opportunity will arise in the form of an invitation rather than us needing to approach them to sell our services
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
When recently approached by Absolute Phuket to share my thoughts on the value of networking here in Phuket I immediately jumped at the chance to turn to the person currently having the most real-time, run-time, living time experience, Michael Massey, president of the International Business Association of Phuket more usually known as IBAP. I spent the next two days following this man through endless, and I mean endless, circles and loops of networking. To explain in a few words, this dedicated group, called IBAP, is the final product of the volunteerism of a dedicated and growing group of networking businesses, networking interested individuals, networking university students, and supportive companies. They just held their 4th annual Business Fair, essentially a networking fair in itself. Networking dinners, cocktail parties, workshops, groups and associations continue to prosper. So why do people keep turning up at networking events? The benefits are several. You are able to meet several prospective clients or suppliers in a short period of time, you get to meet people you might not ordinarily have met and in the spirit of networking other networkers may introduce you to people within their own network who they believe could benefit from knowing you. Michael Massey has had at least one of his companies exhibit in every IBAP Business Fair to date and comments, “Our experience has been that although we have written business, the greatest value has been in the networking process we engage in during the Business Fair.” He adds, “Too often we find that day to day activities prevent us from spending enough time
We can speak to some, who speak to some, and who speak to some more with people we already are acquainted with, to fully appreciate the opportunities that are available to us. As an example, during the most recent Business Fair, I had one conversation with someone I met 3 years ago. The conversation was no more than 4 minutes long and in that time I was given a firm offer of land and financing for a business venture. In another conversation over coffee I was invited by another IBAP member to consider and give feedback on a business concept. These two conversations that I would not normally have had time for, have a potential benefit to our company of several million baht.” It would be fair to say that people don’t come to an
exhibition intending to sell anything other than a good impression of their company, and a good impression for IBAP. We believe that if we demonstrate our interest in another person or business, then eventually the opportunity to present our services will in most cases arise, and it will arise in the form of an invitation rather than us needing to approach them to sell our services. These comments were echoed by several exhibitors. Marketing Manager for Tourism Malaysia, Khun Supreeya Jitrawiparat, expressed pleasure and was happy to invest in exhibition space, brochures, and staffing for the event. She was not expecting people to make a decision to holiday in Malaysia solely because
Too often we find that daily activities prevent us from spending enough time with people we already know. of their exhibit. “If we are friendly to the people who want to talk with us about Malaysia, then at some time in the future they will recall us when they are deciding on where to holiday, or they may mention what we told them when they are talking with their friends. This is the power of networking. We cannot speak to everybody, but we can speak to some, who speak to some, and who speak to some more.” How does one determine the true value of networking? Is it the immediate return on investment, is it the potential value, a long-term value or a seasonal one. However the values are determined it has become clearly realized that networking is perhaps one of the best value-for-money marketing activities available. For little more than the cost of a cup of coffee you can be in the company of as many people as you choose to approach. If you are genuinely interested in supporting others to expand their circle of business, then it is highly probable that some of them will in turn do the same for you. As to ascribing a numerical value to the activity, “Incalculable,” says Michael Massey, “I wouldn’t even want to begin thinking about how to calculate the return, what I do know is that it is profound, and significantly higher than any other sales or marketing activity we undertake.” With that sort of recommendation, it may be that networking is overdue for some newfound fashionability. IBAP meets on the second Friday of each month at Loch Palm Golf Course clubhouse from 6.30pm. Entrance is free to members of IBAP, and 500 baht per visitor. Dinner and drinks included. Find it all on our ‘Networked Run’ website www.ibap-phuket.org Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Business Kia Returns
Business Kia Returns
Image: Courtesy of Helicam
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Phuket Promise Sucharlermporn Paramacharoenroj, born in Phuket and successful all over Thailand is slowly but surely returning to his island roots as Phuket continues its exponential growth in tourism and business. Kia, as he is more commonly known, walks into the room dressed in a clean but casual pair of military shorts and a crisp white button down shirt. Drinking only water as a man of Thai Chinese family born and bought up in Phuket, he is observing the strictures of the annual Vegetarian Festival. Although Kia does not trumpet his own business achievements it is a fact that he is a man who is becoming well known among a new generation of young Thai business people. Everything started at an early age for Kia as he had to help his parents run a small tailor shop in Phuket town where he learned important business values such as honesty, dedication and innovation. These have remained the foundation of his working practices ever since. Kia was only 17 years old when circumstances guided him to take over the family business whilst still completing his studies. Over the next few years, Kia went on to heavily promote the family established brand, ‘Tomming’, also AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
creating an additional five brands subsequently such as the well known ‘Wild Wave’ surf clothing brand. For Kia diversity is pivotal to business success. Although the clothing business did prosper, Kia encountered various obstacles as time went on. The arrival of well known foreign clothing brands as well as the increased quality of textile manufacturing in other Asian countries severely impeded business growth. Although Thailand has done well at manufacture and exports over the years it has never been a market leader in the fashion industry. Kia was quick to note that it is very difficult for a small or medium sized business to compete against large corporations and other Asian economies that are heavily manufacturing based. Fashion trends also seemed to change over the years as people stopped thinking of clothing as a status symbol to the same degree and gadgets like cell phones and i-pods took over as being the must have items amongst the young and fashion conscious. Although he has been very successful at transforming a once small family tailor shop into a large clothing manufacturing and design firm, Kia has also successfully ventured into other sectors of the economy. He is the owner of Andaman coffee and various tour agencies and he has been a major player in the Bangkok property market for over fifteen years. He now leases a large portion of the Pratunam wholesale district to individual retailers. Business has not always been very good in this area but he has helped to develop it by encouraging the development of a large shopping complex as well as transforming it into the biggest clothing retail outlet in Thailand. In the last 6 years, since his return to his roots in Phuket, Kia has established himself as a heavy investor
in the property market as well as the hospitality industry and he currently owns four resort hotels along with major residential and commercial developments. As was the case with his clothing business, Kia feels that having a diversity of products that cater to different segments of the population is the right formula to make business work. According to him, this is just the beginning of his return to Phuket and he plans on doing much, much more on the island. Other then a longing to return to his roots, there were many other factors that enticed Kia to focus much of his activities in Phuket. First and foremost, Phuket is a great place to have a home and raise a family. It is both relaxed and modern with excellent air links both internal and international. Kia also believes that it is very important to be surrounded by skilled and dependable individuals and according to him there is an abundance of highly skilled Thai staff native to Phuket. Another very important factor is the thriving tourist industry. Kia believes that tourism in Phuket will never die. “Business is booming in Thailand as a whole but in Phuket it booms harder.” Although other countries such as China and India have higher growth rates, Kia maintains that Thailand will also continue to have significant growth which is why he is dedicated to concentrating all of his business activities at home. Kia doesn’t deny that competition is getting fierce and this brings along new challenges but he believes that competition is good for business raising standards on the island and in the country in general. Kia is a successful business man making as much business in Phuket as he can. Given his success here and elsewhere that amounts to a sound business tip for those who might be looking for one. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Foreig n Owner ship still available Now under constr u ction Tu r n O n @ NSRE-Tha ila nd.com 0817872007
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Photo Shoot Our Launch Party
Photo Shoot Our Launch Party
Arriving in Style AbsolutePhuket celebrated its debut with a launch party that bought people together from all over the island and elsewhere. A good time was had by all. AbsolutePhuket Magazine was launched last month in glorious style. The party was held at the Watermark Restaurant at the Boat Lagoon. Many people gathered together to celebrate the launch of Phuket’s newest (and we think best) lifestyle magazine. Bryan Lunt, publisher, started with his speech and was followed by K Warapot, Vice-Governor of Phuket and Runjuan Tongrut, Assistant Director of TAT gave short speeches wishing the magazine well. After that it was every man and woman for themself as conversations got loud and talk got animated which is, after all, what good parties are all about. The party was packed with all kinds of people, from local dignitaries to business people including former tennis star, David Lloyd who is now an internationally successful business man and Brian Jacks, an Olympic judo winner in the ‘70s, added real colour to the event.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
There were delightful hostesses on hand to hand out copies of the magazine although on further examination at least two of them turned out to be cardboard cutouts which confused everyone for a moment although it seemed to make no difference to the quality of conversation. Everyone seemed to get on and there were no reports of violence although there were rumours about a couple of guests the worse for ware attempting to punch out the constantly shifting, air filled promotional balloon at the entrance. If you were there we hope you had a good time and came away well fed and properly watered, whatever your tipple. If you weren’t please write to the proprietor demanding more parties in the future. We at AbsolutePhuket will be right behind you.
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Photo Shoot Our Launch Party
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Photo Shoot Our Launch Party
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Win a Holiday for Two for 7 Nights at the Absolute Sea Pearl Beach Resort in Patong, Phuket and we’ll include a Dinner for Two & Champagne! Absolute Sea Pearl Beach resort is located just steps to the beach and is on the edge of all the action. You will stay in a luxury sea view suite with everything you would expect from a luxury beach resort plus we will include a spa treatment for two at the wonderful Absolute Royal Spa so your stay could not be finer! All you have to do to win this wonderful prize is take a picture of yourself and a copy of AbsolutePhuket somewhere around the world or right here in Thailand. Funny and strange we like, and location, location, location! And we’ll know if you have cheated in Photoshop
Email your picture, along with your name and phone number to win@absolutephuket.com The draw takes place on 31st January 2008 and the winner will be contacted by email and phone. The holiday is valid for one year from date of draw, so next time you’re in Thailand you can enjoy. Terms apply and major holidays like Christmas, New Year, Chinese and Thai New Year are not available. Terms apply. Full terms and conditions can be found at www.absolutephuket.com/competition/t&c
AbsolutePhuket bringing you much more than any other magazine.
INVASION OF THE FROG LADIES Images: Dan White
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Survival STREET Sellers
Survival STREET Sellers
That gentle tapping on the shoulder, the melting friendly eyes… Then comes the daunting, insistent simulated croaking. The Frog Ladies are here and you will buy the frog. Dan White lives the terror.
All over Thailand where tourists gather, visitors will often find themselves playing a part in a very common scenario. There you are sitting in a cafe watching the world go by when you are approached by an orderly queue of ten old ladies wearing brightly coloured clothing, lots of heavy jewellery and elaborate hats resembling metallic Christmas trees. Be aware that you are in the presence of the elite of the elite of the commercial street wandering crowd. They are Asia’s finest and most persistent purveyors of things you may just want but most likely it has never occurred to you. They are Bodie and Doyle, Starsky and Hutch and Charlie’s Angels all rolled into one. You have just been confronted by a crack squad of frog ladies. Descending from the misty hills of the wild borderlands near Burma they fan out across the country in orderly lines walking quite slowly. As they march the characteristic sound of wood scraped against wood echoes across the countryside accurately imitating the mournful cry of the humble frog. This confuses genuine frogs everywhere causing them to mate wildly. Once the frog ladies finally arrive at the front lines of Bangkok, Pattaya and Patong
The noise will start to bore into the inner most chambers of your consciousness growing in volume they employ a simple tactic to corner their prey, grind them down and eventually force them, terrorised and confused, to become the proud owner of the noisy wooden replica reptile. This weapon consists of a relentless, never ending repetition. It’s harsh. As the first kindly, smiling old lady walks by you may gently decline her offer. Forget it. This makes no dent at all on the frog lady. She stands beside you for a seeming eternity gently scraping at her frog, and indeed at the fibres of your sanity, using a small wooden stick. Smiling serenely the noise will start to bore into the inner most chambers of your consciousness growing in volume, the sound wafting gently into your future nightmares. Then just as you are about to break the frog lady moves on. You may think it’s over. Think again. The nightmare is only starting. As one frog lady drifts off the next in the queue approaches and the routine starts all over again. The scraping, the gentle smiles, the funny hats, more scraping. Your nerve endings exposed, the world starts to jitter around you. It will not end. You will crack. You will buy that frog. The frog ladies know this.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Survival STREET Sellers
They are merciless. The fact that they know it is what gives them their friendly serenity. The only question for them is how long it will take you to crack. You will end up vacantly muttering “The horror, the horror, the horror” over and over again whilst weeping gently and beating your head rhythmically against concrete. Frog ladies hail from the Akha tribe living in the mountains around Chiang Mai. They are famed amongst other hill tribes for their intelligence and commercial prowess. But on Thailand’s urban streets they do have competition. You may not want a noisy frog but this does not prevent you from being presented with the opportunity to wear a hat cunningly disguised as a goldfish. This sartorial delight could be complemented by a Zippo nearly the size of a pick up truck. If that doesn’t appeal try a string of dangling cuddly monkeys, a stuffed squirrel (perfect for the beach), an amorphous splodgy thing that goes splat or the eminently practical model tuk tuk made from old beer cans. In fact old beer cans provide the raw material for a plethora of objects that you might not want… Planes, sailing ships, motorbikes. All seem to have been beamed in from a parallel world of miniatures where all vehicular transportation is sponsored by Singha Beer or Heineken. Of course none of this is a bad thing. The wonderful
reality is that Thailand is a country where the cities and villages teem with life and excitement and commerce of all kinds takes place on the street. It’s a country where one half of the nation seems to be in the constant process of feeding the other half. Snacking is a national obsession and it is virtually a government decree that where ever more than three people are gathered together in one place it won’t be long before someone pulls up on an adapted motorcycle or staggers by with an impossibly heavy load suspended from bamboo slung across their shoulders. From these mobile cooking contraptions will emerge delicious steaming bowls of noodle soup, grilled fish balls, omelettes and a hundred other tasty, pungent delicacies. Going hungry in Thailand would take quite some effort. Hungry or not, going into a culinary trance will not help save you from the gentle persistence of the frog ladies (no one has ever seen them eat). They will interrupt your reverie… Why not save yourself the bother and just buy the frog at the outset… and the hat made of car parts, the bracelets made of sea shells. In fact invest in the giant Zippo and festoon yourself with cuddly monkeys. Admire your fleet of thousands of small vehicles made of used beer cans. Embrace the void.
Stuff you do need
Stuff you don’t need
1. The Frog. Doesn’t matter whether you want it or not. You will buy the frog. Stop pretending to yourself.
1. Pirates of the Caribbean III DVD. Don’t bother. It’s rubbish.
2. Cigarettes. Who invented these and what’s the point? But if you want them you really want them.
2. Fake Rolex. The whole point of having a real Rolex is to show off. Explain that to the man. Ask if you can pay more.
3. Conical Hat. An invention so fiendishly efficient against both sun and rain that you can only kneel and praise the fact that it has made its way from the rice paddies of Vietnam to Bangla Road.
3. Umbrellas. No one comes to Thailand to shade themselves from the sun, but when it rains for hours can you find anyone selling umbrellas? No.
4. Tuk Tuk made of used Beers Cans. How was it that you ever managed to live without one?
5. Cigarettes. Filthy, disgusting and pointless. You are better off with heroin.
5. Sunglasses. Why do they sell them at night?
6. The Frog. You don’t need the frog? Dangerous talk. Frog ladies have advanced antennae. They will bear down in formation.
6. A Hammock. No one has ever seen him sell one. Make his day. AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
4. Giant Cuddly Monkeys. Just scary.
Health Chinese Medicine
Images: Dan White
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Ancient Remedies Chinese influence has had massive historical importance in Phuket. This extends into the ancient traditions of wellness where centuries of know how are bought to bare.
Strange ingredients are wrapped in plain paper
Phuket is largely peopled with the descendents of immigrants from China who first arrived to work in the tin mines. Establishing very strong cultural traditions they bought with them millennia of experience in medicine and the healing arts. Although the traditions still very much exist, they are being eroded in a modern world where remedies come in sealed plastic bottles wrapped in plastic rather than from the plants and wildlife that populate our mountains, seas and forests. The basic fundamental tenet of what in the 1950s was designated ‘Traditional Chinese Medicine’ is that every part of what makes up a human being is in constant interaction with the other parts. Establishing signs of disharmony enable the practitioner of Chinese medicine to comprehend and treat or prevent illness.
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Health Chinese Medicine
Health Chinese Medicine
They are laid out carefully before being wrapped in the traditional way
Ingredients come from many sources; trees, vegetable, animal and mineral
The ingredients found they are weighed
Each remedy contains many different parts
Explanations are long as each remedy is complex
Each measure imparts centuries of knowledge
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Even though Chinese medicine is part of an ancient tradition it has also been very adaptable in developing in response to changing clinical realities. This includes herbal therapies, acupuncture, dietary therapy and regulated exercise in breathing and movement such as Tai Chi. The fact remains though that the whole is based very much on lifestyle management and the maintenance of harmony to prevent medical problems from occurring in the first place. In Phuket town is one of the island’s oldest and most revered purveyors of Chinese herbal remedies. The shop owned by Mrs. Ho can be found in the heart of Phuket town. We could tell that it was what we were looking for as soon as we approached the entrance. It was dimly lit and jam packed with all sorts of boxes and products that most foreigners had never seen before. As we entered we were hit by the strong herbal fragrances that perfumed the air. At the counter the elderly Mrs Ho started to gather a wide variety of jars and containers and then passed them along to her son standing beside her. He then immediately pulled out a very old, conventional set of scales and started to weigh out some of the products and then sort them into what seemed to be individual portions. While we were carefully examining the procedure, our Singaporean translator went on to explain that we are here for a reason other than journalism. His wife had recently given birth and a specific blend of herbs was known to help a woman recover from the ordeal. In order for these herbs to have the desired effect, they have to be boiled with a whole chicken for a few hours thus infusing the chicken with the potent medicine. Eating this super-chicken is apparently known to help convalescent women produce more and better quality breast milk as well as replenish blood lost during labour. Even though the form of medical delivery may appear unorthodox, chickens being less common than needles as medical aids in the west, across the scattered Chinese communities of South East Asia it has been known as an effective treatment for centuries. Mrs Ho explained that like many others involved in the trade, she has followed the footsteps of her ancestors and her son is also following the family tradition originating in her home province of Guangdong in Southern China. Her grandfather decided to move from Guangdong to Phuket roughly 50 years ago as the political and economic situation became unstable in China during the seismic upheavals predating the rise of the Chairman Mao. Her family and practice were very much welcomed by people in Phuket as the depth and complexity of their medical knowledge became known. Although Thai traditional medicine also uses herbal remedies, it is done in a very different way from traditional Chinese Medicine. “This shop is a Chinese herbal medicine shop not a Thai herbal medicine shop! Although I do admit that even though some of the herbs and treatments are different, in many cases they do treat the same illnesses,” says Mrs Ho with humerous indignation. So what kind of illnesses can be treated or cured by these mystical herbal formulas? The range and diversity of cures and remedies on offer would fill an encyclopaedia. First and foremost, using certain herbs on a daily basis is known to help prevent illness and maintain good health. Second, Chinese herbal medicine can also help cure a wide variety of ailments ranging from the common cold or flu to certain types of cancer.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
In some cases, ‘special’ ingredients need to be used in conjunction with the herbs. As an example Mrs Ho’s son shows us a jar filled with dried giant centipedes that are used as a form of natural antibiotic. Strangely enough, this very poisonous insect has curative properties. Following these interesting specimens, we were shown what seemed to be a pair of dried lizards. We were told that both the male and female of this animal have to be placed in wine for seven days and the drinking of the wine is a remedy for some serious liver diseases. The future for traditional Chinese Medicine in Phuket looks bleak. Having been established in for over 50 years, Mrs Ho has seen a steady decrease in the number of Chinese traditional herbal medicine shops. The art is dying. This is mainly due to the lack of interest from the younger generation who are not interested in learning the arts. It is not modern western medicine that is to blame as this is often used to compliment traditional Chinese medicine and a wide array of western products are also offered at the shop. It seems to be a part of a general apathy in preserving old traditions. When asked if her grandchildren were going to follow the family tradition, Mrs Ho and her son look pensive and tell us that they would be happy to teach them but they are just not showing much interest. Apparently the younger generations still do purchase some herbs at the shop but actually learning the complex arts of the business is a different matter. As time goes by, more people around the world are becoming more health conscious and are looking at alternatives to using drugs and surgery to treat illnesses and perhaps this new interest from non Chinese will help save this dying art that has been kept alive through the ages. Medical tourism is increasingly important in Phuket. Once people are woken up to the wealth of medical knowledge that is available then there might be a real and blossoming renaissance of the Chinese traditional, healing arts and all those centuries of accumulated knowledge will once again be put to good use.
Welcomed in Phuket as the complexity of their medical knowledge became known
Mrs Ho lays out the medicine ready to wrap
The traditional Chinese herbal medicine shop held by Mrs Ho can be found in the heart of Phuket town.
Speed is the part of the art of preparation Ingredients hang from above
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Travel Kuala Lumpur
Travel Kuala Lumpur
Towering KL Kuala Lumpur is a combination of the excitement of the ultra modern and the serenity of the deeply historical. It is a city that sets the heart racing.
It took 36,910 tons of steel to build the Petronas Towers. That’s heavier than 3,000 elephants.
A delightful mix of cross-cultural influences and traditions, Kuala Lumpur radiates an enticing charm. More often known as KL it is an amazing melting pot, home to communities of Chinese, Malays, South Indians, East Malaysian ethnic groups, Thais, Indonesians, Sikhs and a huge community of expats. Each community offers its own festivals, food, music, art and fashion. KL offers many attractions. The main dome of the national mosque is designed in the shape of an 18-point star representing the 13 states of Malaysia and the five central Pillars of Islam. It has the appearance of a partly opened umbrella roof symbolising the aspirations of an independent AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
nation. As one of Southeast Asia’s largest mosques its unique modern design embodies a contemporary expression of traditional Islamic art, calligraphy and ornamentation. The National Mosque is right next to the architecturally fabulous old railway station, and
For both shopaholics and coffee-sipping night owls just a short walk from the sprawling Lake Gardens and National Monument. If you have the energy you can make a walking tour of it by stringing these attractions together. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Travel Kuala Lumpur
Travel Kuala Lumpur
The 88-storey Petronas Twin Towers, otherwise known as KLCC the world’s tallest twin structures are located in the heart of the capital city. The jewel in the crown of Kuala Lumpur, they contain a complex of office buildings, conference halls, a sprawling park and an upmarket shopping complex. Inspired by the geometric shape found in Islamic architecture, this gleaming mega-structure was designed by Argentinian-American architect Cesar Pelli. Stretching out to one side of this architectural masterpiece is the spacious and beautifully landscaped KLCC Park. Interest in Islamic art has grown enormously in AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
recent years and the Islamic Arts Museum reflects that. It houses more than seven thousand artefacts, as well as an exceptional library of Islamic-art books. The art objects on display range from the tiniest pieces of jewellery to one of the world’s largest scale models of the Masjid al-Haram in Mecca. The aim is to create a collection that is truly representative of the whole Islamic world. For both shopaholics and coffee-sipping night owls, Bukit Bintang is one of the hippest streets in the city. It’s a perfect place for people-watching over a latte between bouts of bargain-hunting. A wide pedestrian
walkway running the length of the street has transformed it into an exciting rendezvous point with open air cafes and restaurants. The Central Market is a fine example of Kuala Lumpur’s architectural heritage and also doubles as an air-conditioned arts and crafts market. Need refreshment or a tasty Asian meal? Much of the upstairs as well as outside is given over to pubs and restaurants with great atmosphere. The annex building also contains eateries and two discos. Central Market is situated at the border of Chinatown, so it would be a good idea to wind-up with a walking tour of the area. Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Extravagance Airbus A380
Luxury takes off‌ The Airbus A380 has arrived and it is a revolution in the way we fly. It combines new departures of luxury with environmental innovation. As Singapore Airlines takes delivery of its first A380 air travel in Asia takes a turn for the better.
and you fly in style
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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extravagance Airbus A380
extravagance Airbus A380
Singapore Airlines has just taken delivery of its first Airbus 380, a new generation of aircraft where the science of luxury and customer comfort has been raised to new heights. Chew Choon Seng, Chief Executive Officer says, “With the A380, our customers will enjoy a completely new way of flying while benefiting from the quietest cabin in the sky. In every class we’ll provide more comfort and more space for relaxation. Our new Singapore Airlines Suites – a class beyond First – will redefine luxury air travel. From today, there is a new queen of the skies for air travel. “ Featuring 471 seats in three classes, twelve private ‘suites’ make up the front half of the plane’s lower deck. Designed to give customers real privacy, these partitioned booths are each fitted with fully adjustable leather seats and a separate bed that folds out with a full-sized mattress. A 23 inch, LCD video screen hangs on one wall on which passengers can view a selection of up to 100 movies and more than 180 television channels. The same facility includes a word processor and spreadsheet programs as well as multiplayer 3D video games. Four of the suites in the centre of the cabin could be modified to become double beds for couples travelling together, simply by removing the privacy divider between them. Officially, of course, these beds are meant for sleeping only despite the champagne and the implications for honeymooners.
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
On the upper deck are 60 business-class seats. These also can be converted into a fully flat bed and are also equipped with LCD television screens, USB ports and an electricity supply for laptop computers. Not only does the A380 mark a milestone in luxury, it also marks a step forward in the pursuit of environmentally friendly air travel. Singapore’s A380 is powered by four Rolls-Royce Trent 900 engines, which generate 72,000 lbs thrust each. They greatly contribute to the A380’s environmental friendliness. The A380 has an unmatched fuel efficiency of less than three litres per passenger per 100 kilometres.
A380 feels more like a luxury hotel in the sky The aircraft’s efficiency and advanced technologies results in higher operational flexibility and outstanding economics – with a range of more than 8,000 nm/15,000 km and seat-mile costs 20 percent lower than the former largest aircraft. The A380 is setting new benchmarks in air-transport. If the A380 feels more like a luxury hotel in the sky, it is because it is supposed to. With added comfort, added amenities and added style long haul travel will never be the same again.
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Bar & Restaurant OPEN FROM 12PM UNTIL 3AM EVERY DAY Only Greek Food Restaurant in Patong
Great
Cocktails
Great
Great
Food
Music
12pm to 8pm
Banzaan Sansabai
Prachanukhro Rd.
are from
Rat-U-Thit-200-Pee Rd. Bangle Rd.
happy hours
Nanai Rd. Sainamyen
Everyday Beer
The menu is very complete and can satisfy the taste bus of everyone. Diners can begin their evening by enjoying tasty appetizers such a carpaccio and Horiatiki salad, move on to Moussaka, Risotto or perhaps smoky bbq souvlaki skewers and beef tenderloin.A wide range of Thai delicacies and even Weiner Schnitzel are available.
We’re on the corner of Bangla Road
Sawatdirak
Live music every night of the week from 9pm
Margarita Bar
)
Road Thaweewong Rd. (Beach
Patong Beach
Open concept resto\bar designed to ensure non smokers will not feel uncomfortable. Heineken and Singha beers are available on tap as well as a wide range of bottled beers other imports such as Strongbow cider and Hennessi cognac are also available.
Sport Buffalo Racing
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well established. In 1912 King Rama V himself was a witness to the spectacle. It first started as a trade fair where farmers gathered to buy and sell buffaloes which were, and are, almost a form of currency in rural Thailand. Buffaloes are a status symbol even though their traditional role on the farm has been superseded by the tractor. Many of the buffaloes taking part in the race never do farm work at all being pampered, cosseted, trained and cherished for this event alone. The farmers raise them to be as lean and sleek as a buffalo can be. Events start early in the morning as pick up trucks pull up to the ground disgorging reluctant seeming buffalo who are then led by their noses in single file
Beasts that normally amble are inspired to hurtle as they race each other in a bonanza of rustic traditional prowess.
A day at the races
Images: Dan White
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Sport Buffalo Racing
Hurtling bovines get grumpy and win cash prizes at the intensely competitive annual Chonburi Buffalo Races. Dan White samples an exhilarating piece of rural Thailand before stepping out of the way of the stampede. It’s amazing what raw eggs and beer can do to a man. What is more amazing is what they can do to a normally slow four legged beast that weighs as much as a truck whilst displaying a contrary nature. Once a year in the small port town of Chonburi beasts that normally amble are inspired to hurtle as they race each other in a bonanza of rustic traditional prowess. Greyhounds, thorough bred horses and even Camels look like they are born to run. Buffaloes do not, but run they do in a bovine frenzy. Whether it’s the raw eggs and alcohol that have been fed to them, the crack of the whip or a simple desire for it all to be over they pick up frightening speed over a 300 metre track under a burning hot sun under the gaze of hundreds of onlookers. The race is on. This event has been happening for 136 years. By the beginning of the last century the races were AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
into waiting pens. Before the serious business starts there is a parade of lavishly decorated carts drawn by equally lavishly decorated buffaloes preceded by a gaggle of elaborately dressed beauty queens smiling coquettishly as they pass, shimmering in gold and feathers. This being Thailand ‘sanuk’is the order of the day and following the procession is a brass band and streams of small children in fancy dress. As the buffalo count rises so does the smell of ordure and it is fast becoming imperative to watch your step if you want to keep your shoes clean. In the tents outside the spectator stands buffaloes take part in a beauty contest. With spectacularly long horns and tired eyes they are dressed in shiny blankets, tinsel and bunting. It is hard to tell the criteria by which the winner is chosen, buffalo beauty being an art only for enthusiastic connoisseurs. As the heat builds up the racing buffaloes are lined up in the sun beside huge metal tubs full of water. Farmers splash them constantly keeping them in shape for the big event. It is amazing in some ways that the races ever get underway as forcing these huge beasts into the starting gates against their will is no mean feat. They buck and squirm as the scruffy race officials dance around them coaxing them into place. Often they break lose and make a run for it charging up the track solo and riderless to be corralled at the other end and returned to duty whether they like it or not. Out of this chaos the riders get the nod and they are off out of the gates. Seeing a buffalo leap is an awesome if unlikely site, but at their first stride that’s just what they do. Mud flying everywhere they Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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Sport Buffalo Racing
Sport Buffalo Racing
Moving at high speed
charge at full tilt up the track the jockeys perching precariously on their rear haunches hanging on for dear life whilst belting them with sticks. Some don’t hang on hard enough, tumbling into the dirt and buffalo waste. They do not come up smelling of roses although they are smiling in friendly embarrassment at having tumbled so publically. As one or other beast tares over the line the jockey dramatically leaps off its back running alongside it as it slows to a halt to be doused with water by the farmers waiting by the metal water drums. The races are short and intense after a seeming age spent getting the contestants into place. The signal is given with no warning and the race is over in seconds. Over the loudspeaker a laughing woman commentator gently mocks those who take a tumble.
A large crowd watches in amazement
The procession begins early
Greyhounds are born to run. Buffalloes are not, but run they do in a bovine frenzy
Competition is fierce The tension before the start
AbsolutePhuket Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008
Many races end in a tight finish Buffaloes ask themselves philosophical questions about water and fear.
Buffaloes are expensive in Thailand. They certainly cost more than motorbikes and so since these buffaloes don’t do any work they are quite a major investment in prestige. The prize money of 5000 baht to the winner seems small given the amount of time, work and trouble the owners put in. The truth, though, is that it is not about money. It is an event about culture tradition and that very Thai special ingredient that is all about fun. It is also an event that is very confusing to outsiders. One minute buffaloes are charging in all directions, the next it is all over and a farmer in a red arsenal str ip is marching up the track with his thumbs in the air, apparently celebrating victory. The event at an end the farmers load their charges back on to the trucks, ladies in useful scarves hose down the buffalo waste that now carpets the whole area and police direct the traffic to the various corners of Thailand from where it first arrived. Within half an hour the place is deserted although still less than fragrant. Driving back through the countryside the road is lined with fields, water buffalo bathing languidly in ponds and ditches looking unconcerned as the sun beats down. Little do they know that with a small taste of beer and raw eggs and the crack of a whip they too could take a shot at being champions.
The rider looks more fierce than the buffalo
The procession begins early
Issue Two / December 2007 & January 2008 AbsolutePhuket
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