Absolute Phuket by Dan White

Issue 03 / February & March 2008

.com

Life in the water Swim with the Moken Sea Gypsies on page 10

ISSUE 03 Foreword

ISSUE 03 Contents

10 Moken Sea Gypsies

Features

Foreword by Bryan Lunt

Credits Editor Supachart Ruamsamu supachart@AbsolutePhuket.com

Editor-in-Chief Dan White dan.white@AbsolutePhuket.com

Creative Director Matt O’Sullivan matt@open-up-ideas.com

Production Manager JP Boutet jpboutet@AbsolutePhuket.com

Finance Director Ian Stuart ian.stuart@AbsolutePhuket.com

CEO Bryan Lunt bryan.lunt@AbsolutePhuket.com

Publisher Absolute Group Design OPEN Advertising, Pattaya info@open-up-ideas.com

Printing Amarin PLC, Bangkok sale@amarin.co.th

Advertising Sales Sales Director Callum McKay callum.mckay@AbsolutePhuket.com Mobile 083 596 7537 Office 076 346 282

Readers, friends and our faithful supporters: It has been the best time of year for those of us who like to party! The King’s birthday, Christmas, New Year and the next celebration is Chinese New Year. Then it’s back to the gym for most of us to get fit for the upcoming year and ready for our next holidays or round of parties. We have been at several resort launch parties, we kicked off Absolute Samui magazine just before Christmas, and there are a few more parties to come. Readership is growing, more advertisers are knocking at the Absolute Phuket door (special thanks to them as they help us keep it free for you!) and the magazine is being seen in further away places. Online views are also up so, all in all, it’s been a pretty good run. What’s next? About this time of year we all think about our general health and fitness, wellness of mind, body and soul etc. I have signed up to run in the Hong Kong marathon; ok not the full 40 km but the 10 km run (enough!) which I intend to complete in fewer than the 59 minutes I managed it in last year. Absolute will be opening in Bangkok – the board of directors have agreed – and we are going ‘national’ very soon, by popular demand. A big Thank You to you all who requested the team and myself to get Absolute magazine exposure into the huge Bangkok market – it’s genuinely our pleasure to work with you all and know how exciting this year is going to be for our readers and advertisers alike! Good health, take care and enjoy Absolute Phuket’s third edition and see you all soon in Phuket!

26 Behind the Cabaret

10 On

Phuket

Moken Sea Gypsies

14 On

Thailand

Elephant Roundup

18 Aspects

Jazz Scene

26 Alternative 33 Lifestyle 46 Sea Pearl Party

46 Photo

62 Travel

Singapore

Calander

67 Bentley Class

42 Business 52 Competition

Bryan Lunt Chairman Absolute Group

58 Health 67 Extravagance 73 Sport

Life in the water

February & March

Thai Flavours, Prawns in Sauce

38 Investment .com

Pajama People

22 Food

Issue 03 / February & March 2008

Sea Pearl Party

Regulars 08 Event

Best wishes,

Big Cash on Big Bikes

Shoot

54 Survival

58 Sukko Spa

Behind the Cabaret

Aces Thailand Village Lifestyle Win a Holiday for Two Sukko Spa Bentley Class Rock Climbing

Swim with the Moken Sea Gypsies on page 10

73 Rock Climbing

Cover Image Steve Sandford

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

AbsolutePhuket is published by Sun Sea and Sand Co. Ltd. Registration No: 8837354810366. Registered Address: 42/11 Taveewong Road, Kathu, Patong, Phuket. Design and artwork by OPEN Advertising Limited, Pattaya. Printed by Amarin Printing & Publishing PLC, Bangkok. All material is strictly copyright and all rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or in part without prior permission of the copyright holder. All information and data are correct at time of going to press.

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

event calendar february & march 2008

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

People of the Sea

Fire lights ancient ritual

Images: Steve Sandford

On Phuket Moken Sea Gypsies

Guided by the shaman and the wind

All along the Andaman coast there survives a race of people who predate all other inhabitants of the area living an ancient way of life on land and on sea. Steve Sandford investigates. The high-pitched wails of the shaman echoes across the still waters of the Andaman Sea as the Moken sea gypsies beckon the spirits from beyond with the steady beat of the drums. A potent mix of home-brewed Thai spirits and supernatural beliefs add to the backdrop of the full moon, marking the annual lobong spirit worshipping of male and female ancestors on Surin Island, just north of Phuket. The boat they are in is guided by the shaman and the “direction of the wind.” A head boat carries freshly carved spirit totem poles, wrapped with coloured cloth along with a small craft containing the various souls from the past. After the boat is set adrift, the spirit poles are taken back to land and planted in the ground to protect the village from misfortune. The celebration, in the fifth lunar month, is a happy annual reunion for the Moken. It is also a chance to reflect on things past and what lies ahead for this unique and slowly dwindling tribe of indigenous people, dotted up and down the Andaman coast with an ancient past and an uncertain future. The oceanfaring gypsies have been navigating these waters for centuries, having most likely migrated north from the islands of Indonesia to live along Thailand’s southwest coast, from the Surin Islands to Ross Island in Burma. Finely attuned to deep-sea diving for aquatic life and fishing with nets and spears, Moken families have also lived for centuries on the high seas, aboard their AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

traditional house-boats or ‘kabangs’, surviving on a diet of sea urchins, green shellfish, crabs, fish, lobster and other ocean creatures. The culture and heritage of these special people, animist in belief, who number about 3,000, was suddenly thrust into the spotlight after their miraculous escape from the tsunami on December 26 2004, when the village elders, employing centuries of accumulated wisdom from the sea, recognised the strange retreat of the waves and warned their people to avoid the subsequent killer deluge.

No one knows if this way of life can survive

The wealth of knowledge of the ways of the sea not only saved them from the killer waves, it also permeates every aspect of their existence. The Moken use over 150 species of animals and plants in their daily lives. Unlike the large-scale industrial – and often environmentally damaging – methods of fishing used by commercial trawlers, the Moken use nondestructive techniques such as free-dive fishing with large traps, which allow small fish to escape. Their legends suggest some Moken may even have the capacity to listen to fish underwater and locate large schools, which they can then hunt. This is supported by science. A study published in 2003 described how Moken children, by constricting the pupils in their eyes, could see twice as well underwater as European children – a helpful ability when diving for shells. They are able to gather tiny shellfish and other food on the ocean floor at depths up to 75 feet (23 metres).

A chance to reflect on things past and what lies ahead for this unique and slowly dwindling tribe

The young observe the old

A happy reunion for the Moken

Meanwhile, UNESCO has implemented the Andaman Pilot Project that concentrates on two distinct groups of indigenous sea gypsies – the Moken and the Urak Lawoi. With the possibility of the islands being designated a World Heritage Site, the current project is designed to provide the ‘Chao Lae’, as they are collectively known, with the knowledge and skills needed to take shared responsibility in the site’s management and to guarantee their continued presence in and use of the area. But the nomadic nature of this unique group also has inherent problems since the Moken are not organised at all. They are hunter gatherers and they do things on an individual basis. The UNESCO project will also focus on maintaining the heritage value of the Surin Islands and develop tourism potential through education and training in local handicrafts and public-awareness campaigns about the Andaman Sea area and its people. Things could go either way for the Moken. Increasingly forced to live ashore in conditions that are not always ideal and treated as a captive attraction for bus loads of tourists the future might not be bright. If, on the other hand, their ancient way of life is recognised and help is forthcoming to preserve it, then the traditional existence the Moken have enjoyed for centuries may be allowed to continue. Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

the heart of Thai culture and tradition. An integral part of Thai identity they represent the positive qualities to be found in both peace and power. Until Thailand changed its name from Siam elephants even figured on the national flag. Not just beasts of burden, elephants have always been an honoured national emblem. The king of Thailand traditionally rode an elephant at the front of royal ceremonial processions. At the turn of the 19th century, elephants were practically everywhere. Some 300,000 wild elephants roamed free in Thailand alone, and 100,000 more were domesticated for farming and forestry. As logging increased, wild elephant numbers fell dramatically. Domesticated elephant power was used to drag teak logs from the forest, demolishing the

Elephant Warriors The elephant is the revered symbol of Thailand. Once a year in the Issan town of Surin both elephants and people gather to celebrate a relationship that goes back centuries. Dan White joins the celebration. In ancient times elephants in full armour charged into violent battle like warm blooded, armoured tanks. The general who had elephants in his army possessed a psychological advantage over an enemy who did not. The impact of an onslaught of relentless, raging giants would often have been a frightening enough sight for an enemy to surrender straight away. The elephant was trained to use its tusks in close contact fighting against both man and horse, and to trample with the feet whilst using the trunk. Another technique was to train the elephant to pick up an enemy soldier and pass him to the man riding on its back, who would effortlessly slice him up with a sword. The elephant would also hold an enemy with the foot and then impale him effortlessly with the tusks. Elephants, however, are not naturally violent creatures. Quite the opposite in fact. Thai people will tell you that their country is shaped like the head of an elephant, its eyebrows in Lampang, its eyes in Sukothai, its mouth in Bangkok and the end of its trunk in Had Yai. Elephants are at AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

A fearsome sight in battle

Images: Dan White

on thailand elephant roundup

A sound track of traditional music

Hundreds of costumed soldiers and elephants festooned with elaborately ornamental silk and armour creatures’ own habitat. By the late 1900s, Thailand’s rain forest, which previously covered 90 percent of the country, had diminished to less than 15 percent, with an estimated 1,500 to 3,000 wild elephants. In 1990, Thailand outlawed logging to preserve what forest remained. This left thousands of working elephants unemployed, their former forest habitats destroyed by the force of their own labours. Once a year in Surin in North Eastern Thailand a festival is held that celebrates all the facets of Thailand’s national symbol. It culminates in the spectacular re-enactment of a noisy medieval battle. In addition to a historical reminder of the awesome power of elephants the event celebrates the relationship between man and one of the most intelligent, complex and intuitive beasts on the planet. Held on the third weekend in November the town fills up with hundreds of elephants and their mahouts wandering the streets begging food from the many visiting tourists. Many of the mahouts are from the ‘Suay’ ethnic group. They have tended and trained elephants for generations. They are thought, originally, to have migrated from Cambodia to settle in the north-eastern provinces near the border. Known for their expertise in capturing, domesticating and training wild elephants, the life-long relationship of the mahout with his elephant is an integral element of the Suay way of life. The elephant is both a companion and a family member. The festival usually begins with a procession where all the elephants take part. The number ranges from

Elephants and their mahouts enter the arena

Young and old, they circle the field

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

on thailand elephant roundup

The battle commences with smoke and fire

120 to 150 and includes calves and adults. Then there is the ‘wai kru’, a solemn ritual performed as a gesture of respect to ‘grand masters’ and teachers in martial arts as well as the performing arts. Indra, the Vedic god of the sky, clouds and monsoon and Guardian of the East then descends to earth on his elephant, Erawan. The scene changes with village children accompanying baby elephants into the arena. This represents the almost sacred relationship between mahout and elephant. Acting in father and son pairs it is a close family tie based on a mutual dependency that lasts a lifetime. Once the procession is over, the elephants begin to demonstrate their prowess through a number of choreographed events. They are designed to show that the elephant is not only a strong animal but also an intelligent, gentle and obedient one. There is traditional dancing, a tug of war between 70 burly Thai soldiers and one easily victorious tusker. The elephants paint pictures, play football and pirouette demonstrating the delicacy and precision of their skills. The festival concludes with a mock battle involving hundreds of costumed soldiers and elephants festooned with elaborately ornamental silk and armour. Horsemen ride out into the arena jousting, AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

charging at each other and waving their swords, turning their horses on a pin. They are followed by massed ranks of infantry and artillery. Then come the elaborately armoured elephants to the sound of explosions and the acrid smell of gunpowder. Prior to the 18th century the elephant was the main machine of Southeast Asian war – one late 17th century Thai king had 20,000 war elephants trained for battle. This aspect of war was most renowned in the 300-year war between Burma and Thailand which resulted in Burma’s sacking of Ayutthaya in 1767. In Surin no one actually gets hurt, but it gives you an idea of what the awesome power of elephants trained for battle might have looked like. The battle reaches its height as one side (presumably the Burmese or Khmers) is vanquished. Finally, all the elephants troop into the arena to wave their trunks in farewell. They then disperse to mingle with the crowds. Petted and fussed over they eventually lope off slowly back to town in a traffic jam of pickup trucks, trunks, costumed medieval warriors, Honda dreams and mahouts selling sugar cane. It’s a very Thai form of chaos as the stars of the show plod home to whichever part of the country that they came from.

aspects Jazz Scene

Moody Music

Bonnie Anderson talks to the converted

Phuket is now firmly on the map in the jazz world. Performers came from far and wide for a ‘pure night’ of the good stuff. Being a country where Stan Getz, Benny Carter and Sidney Bechet are honoured with royal approval, it is no surprise that Thailand is fertile ground for an exciting mixture of both homegrown and imported jazz, and even less surprise that the jazz scene is growing with each passing year. In 1990 Thailand relaxed its rules on foreign musicians being employed to perform at big hotels leading to an influx of some of the world’s finest jazz performers playing in the newly opened lounges at world famous venues such as the Bamboo Bar at the Oriental and the Living Room at the Sheraton Grande in Bangkok. Coupled with the popularity of established jazz clubs such as the Saxophone Pub and Brown Sugar, the jazz scene is growing more lively than ever. With international jazz festivals in Bangkok and Hua Hin becoming ever bigger draws for both musicians and aficionados, the Royal Phuket Marina has become the latest venue to let in the cool breeze of the jazz revolution. Long time side man for the legendary Freddy Cole, brother of Nat King Cole, Jerry now concentrates on his own solo shows. His musical talents take him around the world, with studio dates and concert appearances alongside such jazz greats such as Roland Kirk, Jack McDuff, Sonny Stitt, Dizzy Gillespie, Dr. Lonnie Smith “Slide” Hampton, and Frank Foster. He credits his long time friend, the late, great Wes Montgomery, as his mentor and greatest influence. Jazz guitar great, George Benson and Jerry have been friends since their early days in Pittsburgh, knocking around at local jam sessions. In each one’s music you hear echoes of the other. With her rich, gospel tinged vocal delivery Alice Day

Jerry Byrd – riffs and solos AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Images: Lee Starnes

aspects Jazz scene

The real thing

has been delighting jazz fans for more than four decades. A native of Florida she long ago fell in love with Thailand. She believes that if jazz is to survive it must be shared worldwide and she travels the world doing just that. Alice Day is a Renaissance woman: musician, recording artist, entrepreneur, lecturer, jazz promoter and former jazz club owner, disc jockey and humanitarian. In Florida, she is affectionately called “The First Lady of Jazz”. Her emotional and heartfelt interpretation of standards, coupled with her warm and dynamic personality, delighted the Phuket audience. Joining her on vocals as a special guest was Christina Alexander, a newcomer to the jazz scene in Thailand. A young woman with an amazing vocal talent, she showed the face of the future. Her professional singing career started at the tender age of four and this was her first tour in Asia. The legendary Bobby Durham is a drummer’s

A line up of world class talent takes the stage drummer, who has played with the timeless greats. He worked with Ella Fitzgerald for a decade and for an equal length of time with Oscar Peterson. He was also a stalwart of the big bands of Duke Ellington and Count Basie. He has performed and recorded with artists as varied as Frank Sinatra, Ray Charles and James Brown. In recent years he has been alternating residences between Europe and the U.S. leading his own music combinations. For the past three years, he has hosted “The Bobby Durham Jazz Festival” in Isola Del Cantona, Italy. Starting his career as a singer/ dancer in his hometown of Philadelphia, Bobby was a professional before the age of 16. Still at the peak of his career and the pinnacle of his vocation, he drummed his way through a veritable jazz master class. Phuket-based Bonnie Anderson brings the passion of Southern American gospel to the mix. Often called ‘The Healer’, she fell in love with Asia at first sight making a name for herself with her vocal acrobatics and her heartfelt reinterpretations of well know tunes. With a line up like this it is no surprise that ‘A Pure Night of Jazz’ satisfied the faithful, pleased the familiar and turned-on the uninitiated. Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Food Thai flavours

Tastes of Thailand Thailandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cuisine is world-famous for creating sensational tastes using simple ingredients. A medley of flavours, textures and aromas, a Thai meal is a feast for the senses. It is a unique combination of tastes: bitter, spicy, sour, salty and sweet. Either one of these flavours predominates or they are blended in combination. The traditional Thai meal includes rice (Khao), Soup (Gaeng Jued), Salad (Yum), a steamed, fried stir fried or grilled dish (Khong Nueng, Khong Thord, Khong Phad or Khong Yang), a spicy dish of vegetables and fish (Kruang Jim) curry (Gaeng), condiments or side dishes (Kruang Kiang), a liquid or dry dessert (Khong Wan), and fruit. Although the Thais rarely eat all these dishes at once, traditionally they are served at the same time and are eaten in no particular order. Utensils include only a large spoon and a fork because dishes are usually presented in bite size pieces. Chopsticks, however, are used when noodles are served. Today typical breakfast meals would include boiled rice (Khao Tom) with chicken, pork, rice with an egg dish or salted fish and pickles. Lunch usually includes one noodle or rice dish or rice and curry. Dinner, which is the main meal of the day, consists of two or three dishes with rice served at the same time. Rice is a very important part of every Thai meal. Thailand has been blessed with many varieties of rice which include jasmine, white sticky, black sticky, red and young, all of which have their specific uses in various spheres of Thai cuisine. In recent times, many people have gravitated towards eating brown rice in a semi raw state thus retaining the majority of its nutrients. Jasmine rice is, of course, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite. Young rice has AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

also become very popular for its natural mineral and nutrient content. It is not only food; it is also used as a personal cosmetic in soaps and skin care products. If rice is the heart of the Thai diet, herbs and spices are the soul. Many used in Thai cooking are indigenous to the country, including fresh curry pastes, chillies, the kaffir lime leaf and fruit, cassia bark, tamarind, shrimp paste and other brewed seafood seasonings and condiments. Thai cuisine is also influenced by the spices and herbs of surrounding countries including Burma, Laos, Cambodia, China, Malaysia and India. Curry is perhaps the most distinctive dish in Thai cooking. Red, green and yellow curries are served in various forms and intensities. In addition to chillies, some of the most popular curry ingredients include cumin seeds, coriander seeds, bergamot, lemongrass, shallots, garlic, Galangal and shrimp paste. For travellers from the west, dining in Thailand is a revelation of taste, as Thai cuisine served outside the country is usually modified to suit western palates. Even though Phuket and Thailand offer plenty of excellent options for the dining enthusiast ranging from Thai, Indian, Japanese and Italian food to name a few, experiencing the amazing flavours of Thai food is guaranteed to make you smile.

The Tastes of Thailand has been provided by the JW Marriott Phuket Resort and Spa 231 Moo 3, Mai Khao, Talang, Phuket 83110 Thailand Phone 076 338 000

Food Prawns in Sauce

Prawns with ginger & lemongrass sauce INGREDIENTS prawn size 100-200 gm ginger 2 pieces lemon grass 5 pieces non-dried ripe tamarind 100 gm soybean sauce (white) 3 spoons soybean sauce (black) 1 tspn oil 2 cup goat pepper 2 pieces granulated sugar 200 gm water 1 cup Kan-Eang Seafood Restaurant 9/3 Chaofa Rd, Chalong Bay, Phone 076 381 323

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

instructions Heat oil in a wok with a medium heat setting. Fry the prawns until they begin to change colour. Be careful not to fry the prawns for too long as they will become very tough. In a separate pan, lightly fry the ginger and lemon grass in a tablespoon of oil. Keep a close eye on the ginger as it will become yellow when it is ready. Add 1 cup of water to the ginger and lemon grass base and sir gently. Add the ripe tamarind along with granulated sugar and black & white soybean sauce to the ginger lemon grass mix. Bring the sauce to a slight boil and stir gently. Place the prawns in a large dish and cover with the desired amount of ginger and lemongrass sauce. As a final touch, decorate the prawns with sliced goat pepper Enjoy this simple yet tasty Thai dish!

ALTERNATIVE Behind the CABARET

The parade before the show

Finale of a diva

Images: Dan White

ALTERNATIVE Behind the CABARET

More than a Woman Katoey cabaret is part of the mainsteam of tourist entertainment thrilling the audiences with music, dance and mime. Dan White takes a look at the show.

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Sally Boales played by Liza Minelli may have assured you that, “Life is a cabaret old chum,” but on actual examination that would make life pretty surreal if you applied the principal to Thailand 77 years after Christopher Isherwood chronicled the antics of a bunch of bohemian neurotics trying to live it up in the shadow of the inexorably mounting chaos of pre-war Berlin. Well that is unless your life is full of cross-dressing she-men camping it up outrageously, energetically miming to the music hall greats and cracking sly jokes where the innuendo is only barely veiled. Life may not actually be a cabaret, if you wish to keep your feet on the ground, but at the Tangmo Cabaret on Patong Beach all who enjoy a joke, a song and a shuffle are more than welcome. The lady-boy cabaret has become a feature of the mainstream tourist entertainment industry across Thailand. Samui has a number of choices for mildly burly feminine entertainment and in Bangkok Katoey burlesque is not only a feature of the cabaret itself, but part of the Thai music hall shows at the Tawan Daeng where audiences manage to laugh, eat, drink and dance almost simultaneously whilst still remaining at their tables throughout the performance. Here in Phuket, there is the well known Simon Cabaret, plus some smaller operations such as the Tangmo. Tangmo herself is a Kateoy, but she is also a very successful businessperson and entrepreneur. The fact that is initially striking is that for pretty much all the performers this is the only job they have ever done. Any idea of the dancers hopping from job to job, in a barely lit demi-monde of half realised ambition, is banished by the fact that they are more faithful to the company than well paid suburban civil servants in any ministry you care to choose. Admittedly most suburban civil servants

Final adjustments rarely prepare for work by preening themselves and their colleagues in front of a mirror whilst displaying their surgically enhanced features under the harsh glow of fluorescent strip lighting, but the fact is that this is a job with a secure future. Tangmo explains, “The cabaret is all about fun and the quality of the performance. The performers are like my own daughters.” Emba from Nakhon Si Tammarrat has been working at the Tangmo for 13 years, her whole adult life. Sitting demurely in a small black cocktail dress she explains, “Here I can be what I am and be applauded for it. I have everything I want: a good salary, a caring boss and a nice boyfriend who is only 20. I don’t want to work anywhere else.” First time visitors quickly notice one attractive aspect of Thai culture is the positive air of tolerance that pervades it. Derived, maybe, from a Buddhist

All who enjoy a joke, a song and a shuffle are more than welcome ethos of ‘live and let live’ seasoned with a general trend towards ‘sanuk’, or fun, Thais do not really incorporate judgment into their opinions of those who mean them no harm. Thus the transvestite or ‘Katoey’ is accepted into Thai society as naturally as anyone else who has a valid reason to be. At the Tangmo Cabaret the performers represent as much of a cross section of origin, ambition, aspiration and folly as in any other work place. Emba plans to stay as long as she can, but 21-year old Jenny is saving to go to University and study business administration and fashion, whilst 27-year old Cindy is planning Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

ALTERNATIVE Behind the CABARET

Making up before the show

The performers share a mirror and a joke

Adding the final touches

The costumes are elaborate Painting on the laughter of a clown

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Meet the performers to finance the opening of a mini-mart in her native Songkhla. Whatever their plans for the future might be, at present, as showtime approaches, it is the show and the show alone that demands the concentration of everyone involved. In the early evening, every evening, the stars of the show, Emba, Jenny, Cindy, Takky, Pan and Lada, climb the rickety stairs to a pokey, humid series of dressing rooms on the third floor above the small Tangmo theatre. Here they begin the elaborate ritual of make up and preparation for the coming performance. It is a performance in itself as each layer of makeup or costume is carefully and artfully applied or arranged. All the while there is a quiet banter murmuring around the room passing from one performer to another, gentle gibes and constructive suggestions as they help strap each other in to impossible corsets or apply hairspray to ornate coiffures. After the preparation comes the parade. For half an hour before showtime Emba, Jenny and the whole cast patrol the street outside the theatre letting the whole world know what is about to take place inside. Tourists stop to have their photos taken surrounded by Kateoys in sequins and feathers. The performers are proud of their appearances. The work that goes into looking glamorous pays off in the satisfaction of the staring crowds and popping flashbulbs. As the street parade comes to an end it is time for the show. Tangmo explains that the routines are borrowed from many different cabaret shows from around the world. As the light goes up a diva, impossibly tall in stacked heels, and sprouting ostrich feathers mimes, dances and shimmies to 70s classics as troops of lanky young men boogie behind her. She is followed by a heavily painted clown shifting from happy to sad exaggerated burlesque morphing into a slapstick wobble and exiting stage left. She is followed by the French mime classic routine of a costumed half-manhalfâ&#x20AC;&#x201C;woman camping up the pain of unrequited love. There is 80s techno pop, 60s kitsch, 70s glitter all topped by a couple of show tunes performed in the rounded arc of the spotlight. The miming is perfect. The ladies take pride in their mimicry. As the lights go up the music is over and it is now time for the comedy. Tangmo takes the microphone and starts to gently goad the audience with chuckling innuendo, teasing both guests and performers with a bawdy humour that offends no one. As the performers line up for a musical farewell, bows are taken and bouquets are thrown. As the audience head back into the neon bustle of Patong by night the dancers and singers climb back up the rickety stairs to remove their finery, peel off the lycra and wipe away the makeup.

Shifting from happy to sad to exaggerated burlesque, then morphing into a slapstick wobble and exiting stage left

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Lifestyle ON YOUR BIKE @ Stellaluna Shops Valid until 31st Mar â&#x20AC;&#x2122;08

On your Bike Thailand offers some of the finest motorcycling terrain in Asia. On and off road, riders converge on Chiang Mai for a series of rides and parties.

Available on the ground floor Jungceylon shopping destination, Patong Phuket Tel 66 76 600 131 Also in Bangkok at Central World Ground floor Beacon zone B130 Siam Discovery Centre floor 1, Siam Paragon Department Store floor 1 Emporium Shoes and Bags Salon.

Images: Dan White / Ian Rauner

Thailand offers some great opportunities for motorcycle touring and no where does it get better than in the northern hills around Chiang Mai. Once a year bikers from all over the world head into the spectacular mountain scenery of the north for Chiang Mai Bike Week. The familiar image of the biker as the outlaw could not be further from the truth. The community of bikers that either live or converge in these beautiful mountains gather together for charity rides to help local orphans and disadvantaged kids. Here people come simply for the peaceful love of the road, arriving from the four corners of the globe on a variety of luxury motorcycles.

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Lifestyle on your Bike

Deano The Honda Gold Wing

Deano cruised up from Malaysia on the Gold Wing

Driving up all the way from his home in Malaysia, Deano, a former airline employee, describes his Honda Gold Wing 1800cc behemoth as the ‘gentle monster’. Taking his time doing some solo touring through Issan on his way up to Chiang Mai, gently spoken Deano lives for the road. “I am 55 now and I just want to do as much motorcycling as I can while I am able.” Although he has owned Harley Davidsons and also has a rugged Africa Twin, he describes the Gold Wing as the Rolls Royce of the motorcycle world. And with the GL 1800 he may just be right. Evolving from a solid 1000cc beast of a prototype in 1974, Deano’s Gold Wing combines incredible engine power and superb handling with a bewildering array of luxury extras that would not look out of place in the cockpit of a Boeing 747. From the motorcycle airbag system to the sophisticated satellite navigation it is a bike that makes no compromise on advanced technology allowing Deano to cruise the rural highways in complete comfort. “I am a grandfather now. My family are happy when I go on road trips because they know it makes me happy. It is my wife who urged me to get the Gold Wing in the first place.”

Rhodie Triumph Scrambler

Rhodie’s Triumph evokes a golden age of classic bikes

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

As a consultant trouble-shooter for international organisations Rhodie spends his working life in remote and difficult corners of the world. When back home from assignments, he relaxes by jumping on his loaded 900cc Triumph Scrambler and heading off to yet more remote and difficult corners of the globe simply for the joy of it. As a modern echo of the legendary Triumph Bonneville, the scrambler is a stylish mixture of a timeless classic and modern technology. It is a redefinition of the off-road machines made famous by 60’s thrill seekers such as Steve McQueen. Very few motorcycles can claim to be unique but the Scrambler, thanks to its authentic styling, is most certainly one of them. The flat seat, small headlight and single, round-faced speedometer mark its difference, likewise the pair of high-level exhaust pipes, each wearing an evocative heat shield. Rhodie has taken his machine all over Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, often with his 15-year old son who is also a passionate biker. The triumph has climbed mountains, forded rivers and been the topic of a thousand roadside conversations amongst other classic bike enthusiasts. The Triumph scrambler may have only gone into production in 2006, but it incorporates half a century of classic bike cool. In a world where Triumphs, Enfields, Nortons and BSAs reign supreme, the scrambler is simply a thing of beauty. Rhodie, along with many others serious about motorcycling in Asia, including his son Richard, contribute road reports to www.gt-rider.com, the web’s premier resource for those who love to ride the mountain roads.

Robert Harley Davidson Road King Pong Honda Steed A Vietnam veteran and former commercial pilot, Robert, from Reno Nevada, has been riding Harley Davidsons since the age of 15. When asked what makes a Harley different from other bikes he explains, “it’s just the ride.” His wife Pong, from Chiang Rai, has caught the Harley bug but prefers to ride a Honda Steed for the very simple reason that it is on a slightly smaller scale as is she. “I love to drive with Bob over the mountains from Chiang Rai to Chiang Mai. It’s a beautiful road.” Robert is not alone in his love of Harley Davidsons. Here in Thailand they must rank as the most popular big touring bikes. At Chiang Mai Bike Week hundreds of them are lined up testifying to the almost cult status they seem to enjoy. Some of the guys riding them may look scary in their leathers and bandannas, but in reality they gather together not only for the peaceful joy of riding and the love of Harleys but also to raise money for local charities and community projects. Harleys have a long history in Thailand first appearing on the roads of the Kingdom in 1930. Bob Guthrie, President of Harley Davidson Thailand says that, “these days there are more than 1,000 Harley-Davidsons in the country, ridden by a niche group of middle-class managers and business executives who love the feeling of personal freedom, enjoy taking journeys and have an adventurous lifestyle.”

Robert and Pong take it easy on the roads of the North

Nick BMW 1100RT As an executive manager in a large hotel chain from Germany, Nick doesn’t get an awful lot of time off. When he does he takes his BMW 1100RT and puts it through its paces. Formerly-based in Phuket, Nick came to biking at quite a late age. “I used to do a lot of adventure touring in a four-wheel drive and then I was introduced to dirt bikes. It wasn’t long before I realised I liked two wheels but preferred road touring.” Having worked in both Phuket and Samui he is familiar with all the great rides in the South. Nick doesn’t ride a BMW because of his country of birth. “BMW simply engineer great machines. Its no coincidence that they are the most popular long distance bikes in the world.” Although Nick doesn’t have the time to drive the Karakorums or Himalayas just yet, he does find the time to take on some of the roads around the northern mountains of Thailand. “For me BMW make the best sports tourers on the market. It’s a totally different experience to other bikes. It’s a precision machine that handles perfectly.” With all the bikers at Chiang Mai bike week, whatever they are riding one thing is clear, the bike may be important and each to his own, but what is always far more important is the ride.

BMW is the brand of choice for trans-global biking

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

A select few can afford a lifestyle centered around luxury

Absolute & David Lloyd are creating a range of luxurious ownership resorts in the most desirable locations around the world. Absolute Sea Pearl Villas & Spa Resort will be in a beautiful location in Phuket. Now that you know, we want you to be the first of a select few to be at the centre of luxury and lifestyle. Other locations coming soon.

Email phuket@dlaresorts.com for more details

Be the first

Investment ACES Thailand

Investment aces Thailand

Everyone’s a winner Thailand is at the geographical heart of Asia. As a place to trade and invest it offers excellent opportunities to companies that want to reach out across the whole Asian region. AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

At the geographical hub of Asia, with an excellent infrastructure, improved and modernised transport facilities, as well as upgraded communications and IT networks, a developed international hospitality industry and a plentiful and educated workforce, Thailand remains an excellent place to invest. This was reinforced by a 2006 survey conducted by the Japan External Trade Organization (JETRO) showing that Thailand was “the ideal location for a production/sales base in the coming 5-10 years.” First of all there is the simple issue that in Thailand people are generally very friendly and cooperative. Ronald de Hann, Managing Director of Grampian Food Siam sums it up. “The most important thing for foreign investors in Thailand would be the people and the culture. The people are very friendly, which makes it easy and makes it a nice working place. Besides that, Thai people are very dedicated.” In terms of health care and education Thailand offers state of the art hospitals and top level international schools. Added to that, Thailand boasts the largest growth market in Asia and has recently attracted a great deal of foreign investment. It is one of the Asian economic leaders and is one of the fastest-growing economies in the area. James Howard, Managing Director of Katoen Natie Sembcorp puts his finger on part of the reason why that is. “The very stable social and economic situation of recent times and the very strong political stability, are the hallmarks of Thailand at the moment. Also, Thailand is obviously a very strategic location – part of Indo-China and the rest of ASEAN.” As a transport hub, Thailand is at the heart of Asia with inexpensive connections to cities worldwide. Property is far cheaper in Thailand than other countries and an increase in overseas interest in property purchase has helped to create an economic recovery in Thailand. Rental potential is great, due to increased government spending luring growing numbers of tourists and there is no capital gains tax for private investors as well as low ongoing taxes. Today foreigners are regarded by the government as a big investment opportunity in Thailand .This is borne out by strong investor confidence. Brent Lee Bargmann, Vice President of Seagate Technology puts it this way. “The top three attributes that clearly differentiate Thailand from many other countries in the region and throughout the world are: government support, the work ethic and attitude of the people and the skilled resource pool.” Thailand serves as a gateway to Southeast Asia and the Greater Mekong sub-region, where newly emerging markets offer great business potential. From Thailand, it is convenient to trade with China, India and the countries of the Association of South

East Asian Nations (ASEAN), which has a cumulative population of more than 500 million. The country’s well-defined investment policies focus on liberalisation and encourage free trade. Foreign investments, especially those that contribute to the development of skills, technology and innovation are actively promoted by the government. Thailand consistently ranks among the most attractive investment locations in international surveys, and a 2006 World Bank report indicated that Thailand was the 4th easiest country in Asia in which to do business, and the 20th easiest in the world. Numerous government agencies support investors. Through the Board of Investment, the government offers a range of tax incentives, support services and import duty concessions available to an extensive list of businesses that are regarded as priority or promoted activities. There are no foreign equity restrictions in the manufacturing sector, no local content requirements, and no export requirements, as Thailand’s investment regime is in total compliance with WTO regulations. The Board of Investment also coordinates the activity of the One-Stop Service Centre for Visas and Work Permits, which enables foreign

Thailand consistently ranks among the most attractive locations in international surveys staff of BOI-promoted companies to obtain work permits and long-term visas within 3 hours or less. Other government organisations, like the Department of Export Promotion, and international chambers of commerce, provide invaluable support and a host of other important services. With strong economic development and support industries, the country’s industrial production has grown and diversified rapidly both in the longestablished and newly emerging industries. The government has placed emphasis on attracting investment in six key sectors that have been determined as key to the country’s developmental objectives. These six target industries include: agriculture and agro-industry, alternative energy, automotive, electronics and ICT, fashion, and valueadded services including entertainment, healthcare and tourism. With so much to offer the investor, it is no surprise that Thailand is continuing to go from strength to strength in providing excellent opportunities and competitive terms to investors in a wide range of industries.

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Call me now, together we can make your dreams come trueâ&#x20AC;Ś PATTAYA/JOMTIEN BRANCH

www.NSRE-Thailand.com

PHONE +66 (0)38 303 825/6 FAX +66 (0)8 303 827 EMAIL Pattaya@NSRE-Thailand.com ADDRESS 315/183-184 Thrappaya Road, M12, Jomtien, Chonburi, Thailand 20260

PHUKET BRANCH

PHONE +66 (0)76 346 265 FAX +66 (0)76 346 265 EMAIL Phuket@NSRE-Thailand.com ADDRESS 42/11 Taveewong Road, Patong Beach, Kathu, Phuket, Thailand 83150

Business Village lifestyle

Image: Image courtesy of Helicam

Business Village lifestyle

Living the island life Throughout its rapid modernisation, Phuket has retained its tropical beauty, charm and affordability with the cost of living approximately a third of UK prices. Phuket property is not only the most sought-after in South-East Asia, but is a serious competitor with the Mediterranean for the European market. One of the most sought after addresses on the island of Phuket is Koh Maphrao, which is where a wonderful new development is just about to complete its first phase and begin to launch phase two. Koh Maphrao, which translates into Coconut Island, is on the east coast of Phuket. With spectacular views of the thousands of islands scattered around Phang-Nga Bay, the east coast is becoming an exclusive residential address. The protected waters of Phang-Nga Bay are smooth year-round, ideal for sailing and watersports.

Diversity of scenery and astounding beauty, white sandy beaches, limestone pinnacles and granite boulders This exceptional resort is designed to feature the timeless beauty of Thai architecture. Purchasing a villa at ‘The Village’ is an investment in a luxury island resort that provides rewards of strong capital growth, rental returns and your own luxury holiday home. The developers of this five star luxury village are AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

creating something truly different, aiming to offer beautifully crafted two, three and five bedroom villas, each with its own infinity edge pool, on an idyllic island where no cars and motorbikes can disturb the tranquil peace and year round tropical climate. All villas are designed to ensure their owners enjoy the ultimate waterfront lifestyle in a tropical island ambience where no modern comfort is forgotten. The resort lifestyle is supported by a great list of amenities. Adventurous and nature-loving owners will enjoy the fitness facilities and watersports that are available. There is also a spa, shops and restaurants; everything you need. The luxury of these villas is accentuated by the in-house services available from full-time staffing to childcare. The island address ensures undisturbed peace, privacy and security, yet is highly accessible. The location of Coconut Island, just 650m off the east coast of Phuket, is ideal for the owner who wishes to relax in a peaceful environment while still being able to quickly access Phuket’s amenities. Phuket remains a beautiful tropical holiday island and a casual vacation atmosphere pervades all aspects

of life here. The tourism sector is responsible for much of Phuket’s solid infrastructure including an excellent portfolio of leisure and lifestyle amenities including top-notch golf, year-round sailing and diving, luxurious spas and beauty centres, international cuisines, big shopping complexes, boutiques and chic bars. The Village on Coconut Island, although only being three minutes off the east coast of Phuket, is one of the most centrally located developments on Phuket. The 24/7 private water taxi will get you to your private valet car parking in three minutes and from there you can be at one of the many top golf courses within 25 minutes, the British international school in 10 minutes and shopping and cinema in 15 minutes. The Phuket international airport connects the island with major Asian capitals and has frequent daily flights to Bangkok only 35 minuets away. Phase 1 A of this amazing project was completed on December 2007 and includes 16 villas and part of The Village Centre. The Village development team is very pleased to announce that as of now our hillside sea view villas will start to become available for purchase. This will also

include the luxury one and two bedroom apartments which will be sold fully furnished. The company will also be offering a six percent return on all hillside sea view and apartments over four years.

For more information including an updated availability and price list regarding The Village email info@thevillage-coconutisland.com or visit www.thevillage-coconutisland.com With the picturesque backdrop of Phang Nga Bay, the impressive portfolio of amenities and the safe pair of hands which will be running the resort, now is a great time to invest in to your dream. It can now become reality. With unrivalled cruising grounds on your doorstep, there are few places in the world that offer such diversity of scenery and astounding beauty, white sandy beaches, limestone pinnacles and granite boulders – a veritable playground waiting to be explored with every benefit you would expect from a luxury property – security, sophistication and style. Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Photo Shoot Sea Pearl Party

Five Star Luxury is built on a strong partnership December 13th 2007 saw the ground breaking and special blessing ceremony for Patong’s newest David Lloyd branded ownership resort, the Absolute Sea Pearl Villas & Spa Resort. Sports stars, celebrities, politicians, governors, mayors, tourism authorities, land owners, business men and woman, real estate sellers, luxury boat sellers, vacation exchange companies, TV crews and a whole host of journalists, Thais, British, Australians, Russians, Germans, Americans and Chinese – the VIPs, friends and families came from near and far to enjoy this very special and auspicious ground breaking ceremony where Sea Pearl Business President Khun Sumit Soontornnont and family joined Absolute Chairman Bryan Lunt and family, with business partners Svetlana Kostromitina, Vladimir Suchevan and David Lloyd to place amongst other formalities gold, silver and bronze ingots followed by blessed water and flower sprinkling over the foundations of the first block of the luxury condominium, villa and spa resort development to be built on this 42 rai (approx 66,000 sq.m.) piece of prime land. Cranes, trucks and diggers stood by, all ready to create this new high end 92 unit five star spa resort,

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

right on the edge of Patong, with stunning sea views and a feeling of tranquility that comes from the basic Feng Shui principle, ‘mountains behind, sea in front’. Le Meridien Patong beach resort was the location for the evening launch party. An attractive crowd enjoyed great music, fine wines and excellent food whilst watching the 360 resort tour by Helicam. The three business partners all spoke and explained their own part in the future of Absolute Sea Pearl Villas & Spa resort. Khun Sumit expressed his feelings of joy and that he hoped for great success with this project. Bryan Lunt spoke of his team’s intention to sell all the resort condos and villas in 9 to 12 months and that there was nothing anywhere near this project in Phuket. David Lloyd spoke of his love for Thailand and the lovely people he had met as well as his intentions to be involved with Absolute in many more projects throughout Thailand and elsewhere in the coming years. A very exciting time lies ahead for those involved… watch this space!

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Photo Shoot Sea Pearl Party

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Photo Shoot Sea Pearl Party

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

больше, чем недвижимость

член Aссоциации торговых агентов по недвижимости на Восточном побережье

Не отказывайтесь от своих денег!

Win a Holiday for Two for 7 Nights at the Absolute Sea Pearl Beach Resort in Patong, Phuket and we’ll include a Dinner for Two & Champagne!

Добро пожаловать в совместное владение недвижимостью зарубежом!

Absolute Sea Pearl Beach resort is located just steps to the beach and is on the edge of all the action. You will stay in a luxury sea view suite with everything you would expect from a luxury beach resort plus we will include a spa treatment for two at the wonderful Absolute Royal Spa so your stay could not be finer! All you have to do to win this wonderful prize is take a picture of yourself and a copy of AbsolutePhuket somewhere around the world or right here in Thailand. Funny and strange we like, and location, location, location! And we’ll know if you have cheated in Photoshop

о н т ю Абсол

Email your picture, along with your name and phone number to win@absolutephuket.com The draw takes place on 31st March 2008 and the winner will be contacted by email and phone. The holiday is valid for one year from date of draw, so next time you’re in Thailand you can enjoy. Terms apply and major holidays like Christmas, New Year, Chinese and Thai New Year are not available. Terms apply. Full terms and conditions can be found at www.absolutephuket.com/competition/t&c

AbsolutePhuket bringing you much more than any other magazine.

Позвони мне сейчас, вместе мы превратим твои мечты в реальность... Паттайя/отделение Джомтьен

www.NSRE-Thailand.com

Тел +66 (0)38 303 825/6 Факс +66 (0)8 303 827 EMAIL Pattaya@NSRE-Thailand.com Адрес 315/183-184 Thrappaya Road, M12, Jomtien, Chonburi, Thailand 20260

Отделение на Пукете

Тел +66 (0)76 346 265 Факс +66 (0)76 346 265 EMAIL Phuket@NSRE-Thailand.com Адрес 42/11 Taveewong Road, Patong Beach, Kathu, Phuket, Thailand 83150

Survival Pajama people

Bongos & Backpacks What is it that getting on a plane and travelling to Asian countries does to the young of Europe, Australia and America? They climb into their economy seats on their cut-price flights looking, sounding and talking as normal as anyone else. Within hours of arriving something transforms them and they appear from their rabbit-hutch guest house cubicles decked out in infant’s pajamas whilst eating a strict diet of peculiar pancakes and suffering from a compulsive aversion to footwear. The formerly average become the strangely shaped, flocking from all over the world to wear clothing that would have them arrested in their home country. Most alarmingly of all, they appear to have had any sense of humour they might have previously possessed surgically removed on arrival whilst simultaneously acquiring a deep knowledge of all things and an almost messianic need to spread the infinity of their wisdom. It may be only a sinister coincidence that they are all reading from exactly the same book. Who is doing these terrible things to our kids? What drives the newly anointed pajama people? No one is perfectly sure. What is known is that for the pajama people money and the not spending of it has been elevated virtually to the status of a religion. They huddle in cafes exercising the virtue of thrift to an almost devotional degree. What is also known is that they enter into a parallel existence through certain portals. The three major ones being Khao San Road in AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Bangkok, the island of Koh Phangan, whilst the small mountain town of Pai is now, undoubtedly, the pajama bastion of the north. All these places, like a Hadrian’s wall of cheap unreality, have become hives of the po of face and the baby-smooth of skin, exchanging tales of hair braiding, bad tattoos and all else that is not too costly. Suddenly perfectly healthy teenagers who in their real lives stacked shelves at Safeway’s, worked in the local pub or just completed their A-levels, start speaking in a retro hippy patois that they can only be way too young to comprehend whilst looking fashionably disinterested in the sure confidence of recently acquired supreme knowledge. They are of the book. With solemn appreciation they talk misty eyed of sunrise over the Taj Mahal or the latest Full Moon party that they fail to grasp resembles nothing less than Aya Nappa at its most naff. Ominously, some of them start to juggle. Traditionally it has been a cardinal rule for the pajama people to only collect together where others of their kind have been before them. Like worker ants they tread well worn and defined paths labeled ‘authentic’ and ‘unspoiled’. Once a suitable spot is found the necessary hive support is constructed; banana pancake stalls, cafes run by a man who looks a little like Bob Marley, guest houses designed for the efficient breeding of mosquitoes and three internet cafes for each pajama person. In this way the collective assimilates the authentic and makes it suitable for

Dan White attempts to read the runes in a world where people drink from buckets and parade in pajamas. pajama habitation all at an incredibly reasonable price. What makes the pajama collective different from average tourists? The only way to know is to ask them. Like programmed drones they intone “We are not tourists, we are travellers.” They prove this by bullying hard working, poverty stricken rice farmers to sell them coconuts at an authentically cheap price all the while jealously fumbling 400 dollar iPods. Entering through any of the allotted portals to pajama planet is a disconcerting experience for the unwary. The first thing that will strike you is the largeness of their bags. For kids who wear so little clothing or footwear they carry an awful lot about with them. The untested theory amongst pajama experts is that the largeness of the bag carried on the back denotes the importance of status. So next time you are floored getting out of a taxi by the swinging, laden arc of an alarmingly perfumed backpack you can be sure that the person wielding it is surely a big cheese on Koh Phangan. The second thing that will strike you whilst touring pajama planet is the very controlled and hierarchical nature of the conversations you might over hear. Like ancient shamans on a spiritual quest the mind of the collective is highly focused. Pajama people make the world’s finest accountants and conversations rarely stray far from the word ‘cost’. The second characteristic of pajama interaction is the highly evolved jockeying for status based on the ‘coolness’

of the places they have visited. Although they never stray far from the collective hives pajama people increase their status by talking of visiting places that other pajama people have never been to. Some of them even wildly claim to have eaten in restaurants that are not mentioned in the Lonely Planet. All pajama people know that this is just plain crazy talk. If it’s not ‘in the book’ then it is not worth going to. Above all the pajama collective is held to ransom by a local mafia manufacturing plastic buckets. In a cruel and outrageous scandal otherwise innocent pajama people are forced to drink their dainty shots of sangsom mixed with battery acid and Farley’s rusks out of garishly coloured buckets forced on them by suspicious looking men in ripped jeans with greasy pony tails. Some of them genuinely don’t understand that they are being humiliated by this brutal application of pastel shades. They guzzle away like cheery, maladjusted piglets before passing out on the sand or each other. What happens to the pajama people when the pennies run out? One of two things. The best result is a flight home, a job back in Safeway’s or a well earned career as a real accountant with proper shoes and the same kind of hefty mortgage that brings a pleasant frisson of reality into the lives of others. The most horrific scenario is that they actually do learn to juggle. Once you can juggle there is no turning back. There is nothing for you but a life of bongos. Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

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Health Sukko Spa

The Art of Wellness Sukko Spa offers a mixture of relaxation and mental focus using traditional methods. Andy Johnstone takes the treatment. Sukko Cultural Spa & Wellness resort is a splendid sanctuary where even the most stressed or jaded will find relief and relaxation. Situated along Phuket’s Chao Fa Road West it is named after Thailand’s Sukhothai era and the legendary Suwannaphum (Pali for ‘Land of Gold’) realm of Thailand. Just as other nations’ have claimed Suwannaphum – also referred to as Suvarnabhumi – as theirs, so has Thailand. Thai people have averred that Suwannaphum was in the Chao Phraya plain of Thailand, without, it must be said, any historical records proving so. The truth is that no-one knows where it was or even if it ever existed, not unlike Avalon, Shangri-la or El Dorado. Whatever the truth of the myths Sukko Spa is a place that emulates the legend. It is presented as the ‘World’s first cultural spa’. Modelled on the Suwannaphum of yore it is filled with kitsch and is a fairytale theme park for the mind and body. AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

It’s scale reminds one of Hearst Castle in San Simeon. Something other worldly, vaguely mysterious and enchanting permeates the air around it. A bas-relief relating the fable of Phra Sumeru, the mountain sacred to Hindus, Buddhists, Jainists and Jedis graces the entrance wall. One passes statues of dragons and elephants and continues on past ornamental bells and burbling water features. Arrive early enough and you can indulge in an Ashtanga yoga class, one of the ‘cultural-wellness’ activities offered by Sukko Spa. Ashtanga yoga has come a long way from its roots in India to being practised, and indeed sung about, by Madonna. Sukko Spa classes are led by Swede Jonas Radahl, a former health chef. For some, ashtanga yoga remains a way of life and a philosophy. They adhere to its yama (moral code) and its niyama (self-purification and study) as developed last century by Sri Krishna Pattabhi Jois, who still receives hundreds of yoga students a year at his ashram in Mysore, India. Ashtanga yoga is said to produce an intense internal heat through synchronising movement with breathing while practising a set sequence of postures, a process known in Sanskrit as vinyasa. The heat, like a purifying fire, reputedly purges the muscles and organs of toxins. Done correctly under the guidance of a qualified teacher, it also leads to a clear and calm mind. For others, ashtanga yoga is simply a great way to exercise, build up a healthy glow and lose weight. Progress, perhaps, from this intense physical, mental and spiritual regime to a spot of muay Thai Chaiya, another form of Thai boxing. The graceful, almost balletic movements with feet and fists of the boxers reflect the rigours of mental and physical discipline. Legend says it was developed 250 years ago in the Surathani town of Chaiya by Bangkok-born Por

Tan Mar, a soldier who later became a monk. Fittingly, for a fighting style developed by a monk, muay Thai Chaiya incorporates Buddhist concepts within its teachings. Boxers are still trained in meditation, and some say that the skills learnt through a meditative process are similar to the safety catch on a pistol. The footwork is fast and smooth, the boxer moving in a vaulting motion delivering a blistering volley of blows from all limbs and all angles. Whether for fighting or fitness, the end result is a powerhouse workout.

Whether for fighting or fitness, the end result is a powerhouse workout If that all sounds too energetic, then simply have a massage. Thai massage takes its cue from ancient Indian Ayurvedic teachings that date back to the time of Buddha and his physician, one Dr Shivago – not to be confused with Pasternak’s semi-autobiographical hero. Principles said to have been laid down by Shivago have been embraced by Thailand as its own. The health benefits of massage may be moot, but the pleasant feeling of walking on air following a few hours of gentle, or sometimes not so gentle, rhythmic pressing, stretching, manipulation and pulling of the entire body is unquestionable. A visit to Sukko Spa, a veritable Disneyland of spas, an amalgam of all things relaxing, healthy and peaceful is a must for all. Sukko Cultural Spa & Wellness, Chao Fa West Rd, Phuket, 83000. Phone 076 263 222 or visit www.sukkospa.com

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Imagine enjoying complimentary green fees for golf at Thailand’s top golf courses and complimentary spa treatments at more than 50 of Thailand’s top spas. For life. Imagine being met by a Thailand Elite representative each time you arrive in Thailand and whisked away to the exclusive Thailand Elite lounge, while your luggage is collected for you. Then being fast-tracked through a special immigration and passport control channel, before being chauffeur driven by limousine from the airport to your place of accommodation. Imagine having a special renewable 5 year multiple-entry visa for Thailand so you can come and go whenever you want, and stay for as long as you like. And what better way to meet high-level business contacts than with access to Bangkok’s most exclusive executive club. Thailand Elite also provides a complimentary annual medical check-up for members at any of 11 international standard hospitals. This is what it is like to be a Thailand Elite member. Operated by the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) with privileges made possible with the Thai government's full support, Thailand Elite is the world’s most prestigious country club. Lifetime membership is THB 1.5M (approx. US$51,000) valid until December 31st 2008. To become a member of the world's most exclusive country club call your Authorised Thailand Elite Representative on +66 (0)81 787 2007 or email ThaiElite@DLOR.net to find out more.

Complimentary green fees for golf at the leading golf courses in Thailand Complimentary spa treatments at more than 50 of Thailand's top spas Special renewable 5 year multiple entry visa, extended stay without leaving the country VIP expedited immigration and passport control Airport two-way limousine transfer service Access to Bangkok's premier executive club Complimentary premium annual medical check-up at top international standard hospitals 24 hour assistance through Thailand Elite’s Member Contact Centre Thai Airways benefits (ROPG, discount ticket)

Travel Singapore

Singha Skyline Singapore comes from Singa Pura, meaning Lion City. Although there are no lions, there is much to offer in terms of business, shopping and entertainment. Singapore is the great melting pot of the East, a long time cosmopolitan port city that has been at the commercial crossroads of Asia for centuries. Sir Stamford Raffles brought Singapore to world prominence after searching for a trading station to counter the Dutch influence in the Straits of Malacca, and ever since then trade has remained the island’s mainstay. Centuries before Sir Stamford Raffles acquired Singapore from the Sultan of Johor in 1819, the island had been virtually abandoned. However, within decades of Raffles intervention Singapore had become the main commercial and strategic centre for the region. In 1867, it became a British Crown Colony and was home to one of the Empire’s most important naval bases. This remained the case until 1942 when the Japanese army swept down through Malaya and occupied the colony. Three-and-a-half years later the Japanese surrendered in Singapore and the colony reverted to its colonial status. With the dissolution of the British Empire came internal self-government in 1959. In 1963, Singapore joined the Federation of Malaysia, but broke away in 1965 to become fully independent. The initial outlook was by no means certain. Singapore is tiny and has no natural resources apart from its harbour. However, Lee Kuan Yew (first elected prime minister in 1959 and re-elected eight times thereafter) oversaw the growth of a vibrant trade led economy.

Tourism for Singapore has also proven to be very healthy. Culture lovers thrive on its mixture of Chinese, Malay and Indian cultures. With its assortment of mosques, temples and synagogues, Singapore presents a happy combination of contrasts – grand and expensive at the famed Raffles Hotel, but low-key in the food markets of Bugis Junction and Clarke Quay. But even in the low-key areas, Singapore remains an incredibly clean city. With its exciting riverside parade of bars and restaurants it is also a city of fun and excitement. Nor is nature ever very far away in Singapore either. Bukit Timah Nature Reserve contains a significant area of primary rainforest, while, for the adventurous, Sungei Buluh Nature Park offers the chance for trekking. Check out Pulau Ubin’s mangrove AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

forest, a bumboat’s ride from Changi jetty, or Kusu site of Taoists’ annual pilgrimage. Shopping in Singapore City’s Orchard Road takes you to the ‘Fifth Avenue’ or ‘Oxford Street’ of Singapore, and it is just as bustling. With its vast luxury malls, shops ranging from megastores to vendors of souvenirs, as well as cafes and restaurants it will satisfy the most devoted of shopaholics. Arab Street is the centre of the Arabian quarter and is also a great place for shopping. Other streets with excellent shopping opportunities are Baghdad Street and Bussorah Street, while Sultan Plaza is a centre for cloth traders. The golden domes of the Sultan Mosque, Singapore’s chief Muslim place of worship, dominate the area. Nearby are two historic Muslim burial grounds. Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Travel Singapore

Chinatown, though somewhat overwhelmed by the growth of the Financial District, is another bustling and colourful area with shops, teahouses and restaurants, and also several temples such as the Fuk Tak Ch’i in Telok Ayer Street and the Temple of the Calm Sea. Ancient crafts of calligraphy, papermaking and fortune-telling are practised, and traditional goods and foodstuffs can be bought. The characteristic domestic architecture of Singapore, the shop-house with a moulded front, shuttered upper floor and an arcaded street front characterises the whole area. Time spent propping up the bar at the Raffles Hotel, one of the most famous hotels in the world, is a Singapore must. A ‘Singapore Sling’ in the Long Bar is the drink to order or you can drop into the Writers’ Bar. Here Noel Coward, Somerset Maugham and

A ‘Singapore Sling’ in the Long Bar is the drink to order or you can drop into the Writers’ Bar Joseph Conrad all found inspiration. After that wander over to the Parliament House near the Singapore River, the oldest government building in the country dating back to the 1820s. The National Orchid Garden in Singapore’s Botanic Gardens has the largest collection of orchids in the world with over 52 hectares (128 acres) of landscaped parkland and primary jungle. They are situated to the west of the city (Napier/Cluny Roads) and are home to a wide range of animal and plant life. For more exotic treats of nature, venture into the Bukit Timah Reserve, established in 1883 and located northwest of the Botanic Gardens on Bukit Timah Road; it contains Singapore’s last stretches of original and immaculately manicured rain forest. The nature reserve also consists of tropical vegetation with

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

clearly marked trails which lead up to Bukit Timah, the highest hill in Singapore. View what was once an ancient fort of the Malay kings, Fort Canning Park, on Fort Canning Rise. The colonial ruins of the British citadel can still be seen, as can a 19th-century Christian cemetery. The Battle Box in the park is the old command bunker of the WWII defence of Singapore, now a museum, with a small admission fee charged. With its cosmopolitan mix of cultures, Buddhist and Hindu temples, mosques and cathedrals are all encountered during a comparatively brief walk around some of the central areas of Singapore. St Andrew’s Cathedral, the Cathedral of the Good Shepherd, the Al-Abrar Mosque, the vast and florid Kong Meng Sang Phor Kark , the Chettiar Hindu Temple and the Sri Mariamman Temple are only a few of these. The Jurong Bird Park on Jurong Hill is home to South-East Asia’s largest collection of birds. There is also the world’s largest walk-in aviary, a nocturnal house and several spectacular bird shows. Sentosa is a multimillion-dollar pleasure resort with a wide range of activities and attractions on offer. These include the Underwater World and Dolphin Lagoon, Images of Singapore, The Merlion, the Butterfly Park & Insect Kingdom Museum, Sijori WonderGolf and the Carlsberg Sky Tower. Lovely gardens, beautiful beaches and a plethora of restaurants and eating places all contribute to the island’s popularity with tourists and locals alike. Many prefer to skip the theme park attractions and head straight for Sentosa’s beaches (Palawan, Siloso and Tanjong) where a wide range of water sports is available. These were built with imported white sand. Singapore is one of the most advanced and prosperous cities in Asia. It is also a place where you confront a fascinating history at every turn. With direct flights from all over the world it is easy to get to and should not be missed.

Extravagance Bentley

Six Star Luxury on Four Wheels Bentley has long been a synonym for quiet luxury in the world of motoring. David Hardcastle examines the phenomenon. Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Extravagance Bentley

The Continental GT on the road Bentley and Rolls-Royce were married for 67 years. The ceremony took place when Rolls purchased the ailing Bentley company in 1931, and the divorce came when German giant VW bought the ‘flying B’ in 1998. During the marriage, Bentleys were always the sportier and sometimes the cheaper of the pair. Thus, Bentley became known as the ‘understatement’ and Rolls the ‘overstatement’. If you could afford the one you could obviously afford the other. Bentley was never the poor relation.

They took the racing world by storm and were named ‘the most beautiful cars in the world’ A 16-year old who rode his bike to his first job as an apprentice at England’s Doncaster steam locomotive sheds went on to conceive a range of vehicles which became known as the ‘silent sports cars’. They took the racing world by storm and were named ‘the most beautiful cars in the world’. That was an accolade from the Italians who have often been credited with the invention of style. W.O. Bentley not only qualified as an engineer, but somehow found the cash to start Bentley Motors. His genius culminated in a big, reliable engine which powered Bentleys to beat all comers at the Le Mans 24 Hour Endurance Race in 1924, 1927, 1928, 1929 and 1930.

The Bentley logo was first seen in 1919

Those were the days when many customers bought the bare chassis, then chose one of two dozen prestige designers to top them with opulent steel and timber. Rakish sports bodies came from Vanden Plas, streamlined coupes from Gurney Nutting and sumptuous saloons from Hooper. The first production Bentley cost just £1,050 in 1924, but the sky was the limit for owners who demanded glass partitions, cocktail cabinets, gun racks, picnic hampers and other slightly strange accessories. Bentley’s party as an independent entity ended in 1931 with the buy-out by Rolls, but was reinstated by the Germans in 1998. An enormous PR boost was a triumphal return to Le Mans and yet another classic junket was held in 2003 at the London Savoy. As a mark of the cool that is still integral with the marque, the meal and the drinks were identical to those served more than seven decades before. Only the bill differed. Back in the golden days, the handbrake sprouted up from the running board. Years ago the running board moved inside and is now called a tread plate. The new Brooklands Coupe, billed as the car with “the most spacious rear cabin of any coupe in the world,” comes in brushed aluminium. It ushers you into an world of leather hide trimming (choice of 25) and wood veneers (choice of three), all as standard fittings. Those pedals are now aluminium, and as the driver looks out over the twin turbo, 530 bhp, 6.75 litre V8 (each engine signed by the team leader at the Crewe factory) he settles into a seat with integrated belt and side air bags and can electrically adjust the

The Azure convertible ideal for the tropics

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Have a lot of spare cash… why not treat yourself Continental GT (560)

19,613,500

Continental GT Speed (610)

22,131,000

Continental Flying Spur

19,320,000

Continental GTC

21,077,000

Arnage R

26,054,000

Arnage T

26,932,000

Arnage RL

30,035,000

Azure

34,250,000

Brooklands

34,836,000

Prices in Thai Baht using 58.54THB to 1.00GBP as of 7th January 2008.

lumbar support, tilt and extend cushions. He can also deploy the ‘massage function’. The lucky friends of the Brooklands owner will sink in either side of the central rear console (storage and cup holders) and can adjust their own angles of recline. Interior design chief Robin Page put it as elegantly as you’d expect. “The beautiful hand finishing is no different from a bespoke suit or haute couture dress.” The clothes are available now, but unless you’ve ordered it already, you must wait until early 2009 for a Brooklands Coupe, and only 550 will ever be made. Speedy as the new Brooklands may be, no Bentley has ever matched the 600 bhp of the Continental GT Speed, an all-wheel-drive magic carpet that floats up to 60 mph in 4.3 seconds and on to a truly terrific top speed of 202 mph. But be assured that the whole thing is halted by the biggest brakes ever provided on any production car.

Many choices of spec await the fortunate Flying Spur buyers, but just the ‘extras’ read like a complete limmo

The luxurious interior of the Brooklands model 1952 Bentley R Type Hooper Empress Saloon privately owned in Thailand.

All fine for the sporting owner driver, but Bentley has never overlooked the limousine market, and the four door Flying Spur offers all you’d expect at slightly lower cost and horsepower rating. Still, with 552 bhp on tap from its 6 litre engine, 0-60 mph in 4.9 seconds and a top speed of 195 mph this all-wheel-driver is quite sufficient to blow away the low flying pilots of most so-called sports cars. Many choices of spec await the fortunate Flying Spur buyers, but just the ‘extras’ read like a complete limmo. If you wish to have some privacy pull down the blinds and let the chauffeur call you up on his cordless phone. You could answer him on your corded handset in the back. If he missed a turning somewhere, in a matter of seconds he could tune into the on-board satellite navigation system. And while he’s sorting out his lefts from his rights, temper any impatience you might have, fold down a veneered picnic table and reach for your favourite Veuve Cliquot from the refrigerated bottle cooler.

Attention to details is the essence of Bentley

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Bar & Restaurant OPEN FROM 12PM UNTIL 3AM EVERY DAY Only Greek Food Restaurant in Patong

Great

Cocktails

Great

Food

Music

12pm to 8pm

Banzaan Sansabai

Prachanukhro Rd.

are from

Rat-U-Thit-200-Pee Rd. Bangle Rd.

happy hours

Nanai Rd. Sainamyen

Everyday Beer

The menu is very complete and can satisfy the taste bus of everyone. Diners can begin their evening by enjoying tasty appetizers such a carpaccio and Horiatiki salad, move on to Moussaka, Risotto or perhaps smoky bbq souvlaki skewers and beef tenderloin.A wide range of Thai delicacies and even Weiner Schnitzel are available.

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re on the corner of Bangla Road

Sawatdirak

Live music every night of the week from 9pm

Margarita Bar

)

Road Thaweewong Rd. (Beach

Patong Beach

Open concept resto\bar designed to ensure non smokers will not feel uncomfortable. Heineken and Singha beers are available on tap as well as a wide range of bottled beers other imports such as Strongbow cider and Hennessi cognac are also available.

Sport Rock climbing

On the Rocks Shaken not stirred, rock climbing is an adrenalin rush where your life hangs in the balance. Steve Sandford gets close to the edge on sport climbing.

Images: Steve Sandford

You are suspended 30 metres high in the air and the fishing boats in the bay below look like toys. Sunbathers on the beach beneath you look like dolls. You cling to the jagged yellow limestone that radiates with an orange glow under the morning sunlight as the fresh sea air enters your lungs with a pinch of salt. Reaching out at arm’s length to locate a small opening in the rocky wall with legs outstretched for support, you continue the ascent. For anyone who has tried the knuckle-clenching sport and especially for those who haven’t, sport climbing is an invigorating adrenaline rush – but, having said that, it’s also pretty safe.

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

Sport Rock climbing

Limestone outcrops make for a spectacular location

Safety always comes first

Rai Lay beach in Krabi has become a haven for rock climbing enthusiasts from as far away as Canada and Switzerland, who are lured back again and again to the beauty of the beach-side recreation wall. Swiss climber Jonas Stalder first experienced the breath-taking scene four years ago when he came to Thailand on a group climbing tour. While taking on the steep climbs Stalder fell – but, thankfully, only for his future wife. Four years on, the couple returned to the site of their first climb together with their brand new baby boy, Albin, who enjoyed a jaunt up the small cliff attached to his dad. “Krabi is renowned around the world for its beauty and it’s a great get-away during the cold winter months back home,” says Jonas, as his six-month old son grabs onto his rope. But it’s not just the avid wall huggers who are attracted to the charged jaunts up the blockade. Many of the vertical travellers are vacationers in the area who have come for other activities such as the three S’s – snorkelling, sun and sailing. Marcus Picard, a Swiss traveller who has been returning to Thailand for many years, has been rock climbing for just three. “I come here to do a little sailing, a little diving and some climbing,” Picard says, while taking a break in his beach chair. “If you want to do winter climbing in Southeast Asia, then Krabi is the place to be.”

You are suspended 30 metres high in the air and the fishing boats in the bay below look like toys

Gently suspended above water

AbsolutePhuket Issue 03

Mild weather is not the only reason that brings recreation climbers like Picard and Stalder to the sandy beach resort. There is also the atmosphere of the location. Rai Lay is basically a user-friendly place for climbers, and the camaraderie of the groups nestled at the bottom of the steep inclines, whether they are first timers or seasoned veterans, is evident upon arrival at the base of the cliffs. “That was my fist climb,” beams an exhilarated teenage girl with a distinctly German accent as she unbuckles her climbing harness. Meanwhile, another first-timer is struggling to find a finger hold in the rock, about 15 metres above, when his Thai rock climbing guide yells out, “Always look before you move!” The beauty of the climb, whether it be the 10-metre run on “Wall 1” or the steeper trek close by on “Wall 3”, is that the climbers have the luxury of taking a rest, rather then maintaining constant pressure to move onward and upward. When it comes to the actual ascent, the guide or climbing partner below is harnessed into a rope, which runs up to the top of the climb and then back down again running through a series of bolts that have been hammered into the rock. As the climber leans back into his harness, which doubles as a seat, his “climbing” partner tightens the line until the climber is ready to resume his march upward. One of the quick tips that this writer picked up before rising to the occasion for the first time included keeping the weight of the body on the legs whenever possible. This is especially effective when it’s difficult to find a crevice or hole big enough for more than a few fingers for leverage. Climbers are outfitted with lightweight climbing shoes with a rubber sole for grip and plenty of laces to ensure a tight fit. Looking down

Swinging through the overhangs after climbing five or ten metres can also be a bit intimidating the first time out, but confidence builds as climbers become more comfortable with the ropes and release harnesses. In addition, a pouch is attached to the back of the diaper-like harness, containing a piece of white chalk which comes in useful when fingertips become soaked with sweat, causing grip to become extremely tricky on the smooth rocks. Adjacent to Wall 1, 2 and 3 is the Ocean Wall further up the beach and into the trees. A large cave opening yields an advanced climb for the more experienced climbers, with a steep corner point, which juts all the way up to the top of the cave. Cave dwellers can explore the reaches of the many caverns with the help of a flashlight or lantern. A trek through a maze of bamboo ladders going up and down the dark interior will bring the trekkers to the south opening in which the only way down is by propelling oneself down the orange. This side of the cliffs offers the Taiwan Walls, running 23 metres up the side of the cliffs. A Japanese student can be seen swinging down into the cave entrance from above after having completed a climb. Meanwhile trios of Canadians take turns at the bottom of the cliff, reaching to new heights along the wall surface. Kirk Nell, a 28-year old Bangkok teacher originally from Toronto, loves the camaraderie of the climbers that he mingles with. “It’s a friendly crowd, not too cliquey here,” Nell comments, as his fraternity buddy from Vancouver gets words of encouragement from the two Japanese climbers on the adjacent wall.

Further down the beach is where the big boys and girls come to play. The jutting stumps of rock on Andaman Wall provide a mix of obstacles for the experienced vets to latch on to and overcome. Thailand’s rock climbing is currently rated in the world’s top ten for sport climbing, but for many it’s at the top of the heap. “It’s popular to climb on the cliff by the sea,” explains Hot Rock owner Luang Ruchsang. This attraction comes as no surprise, considering that not only to rock climbers, but also to many sun worshippers around the world, the name Rai Lay beach has become synonymous with beauty.

Cave dwellers can explore the reaches of the many caverns with the help of a flashlight or lantern Top climbers Chris Sharma, Francois Legrand and Lynne Hill have all visited the famed Andaman Wall and local guide Aree Somkan, 25, quite literally looks up to them. “I would like to see Chris Sharma climb and be as good as him,” Aree says. Being employed as a guide with Hot Rock, he has had his share of climbing since he began a few years ago. “I have completed some of the runs 100-200 times,” he says. Others – more difficult – are on his “wish list” to tackle in the years to come.

Issue 03 AbsolutePhuket

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AbsolutePhuket Issue 03