Gin & Food Pairings by Frankio

I S S U E 2 0 GR AIN REPUBLIC The Dutch cooperative championing better grain farming US Gin Association Creating a platform and a community for American gin Gin & Food Pairings Gin cock tails How to pair gin and Chartreuse TASTINGS INCLUDE B U R L E I G H S G I N • C A M B R I D G E D I S T I L L E R Y H E L S I N K I D I S T I L L I N G C O • H E N D R I C K ’ S • O R O • T H R E E W R E N S GINSTASTED23 Great Glen A gin legend is forming on the banks of Loch Ness That Boutique-y Gin Company The independent bottler pushing gin’s boundaries Sustainable gin bars How bartenders and owners are reducing their carbon footprint

ISSUE 20 GIN 3 EDITOR’S WORD BETHANY WHYMARK PAR TNER POWER I’m going to start this column on a slightly soppy, personal note (don’t roll your eyes, I know you love a bit of soul bearing) I ’m lucky enoug h to have an amazing

Gin is published by Paragraph Publishing Ltd 6 Woolgate Court, St Benedicts Street, Norwich, Norfolk, NR2 4AP, UK +44 (0) 1603 633 808 | www gin mag com EDITORIAL Editor Bethany Whymark bethanyw@paragraph co uk Sub editor Phoebe Calver phoebec@paragraph co uk Content executive Bradley Weir bradleyw@paragraph co uk CONTRIBUTING EDITOR David T Smith DESIGN Creative director Paul Beevis paulb @paragraph co uk Art editor Tim A’Court tima@paragraph co uk Designer and photographer Mandy Chettleburgh mandyc@paragraph co uk PRODUCTION Production manager Anita Johnson anitaj@paragraph co uk FINANCE Finance director Tony Nutbrown tonyn@paragraph co uk Finance assistant Louise McDonald louisem@paragraph co uk DATA & TECHNOLOGY Technology solutions Lewis Cozens lewisc@paragraph co uk MARKETING Marketing communications manager Raphaella Atkinson raphaellaa@paragraph co uk Circulation manager Richard Drake richard d@paragraph co uk Marketing executive Matt Neville mattn@paragraph co uk Direct marketing executive Chané Roode chaner@paragraph co uk AWARDS Awards director Anita Ujszaszi anitau @paragraph co uk Awards operations Jack Brooks jackb@paragraph co uk Awards data research Miguel De Castro migueld@paragraph co uk COMMERCIAL Commercial director James Houlder james h@paragraph co uk Commercial managers Joanne Robertson joanne r@paragraph co uk Jamie Brodie jamieb@paragraph co uk MANAGING DIRECTOR Damian Riley Smith damian r@paragraph co uk SUBSCRIPTIONS AND NEWSAGENT COPIES Annual subscription rates are UK £30 60, Europe £35 36 US/Can £38 36 ROW £38 36 Subscribe online via our secure server at: www gin mag com or subscribe by phone +44 (0) 1293 312 254 (Mon Fri 9am 5pm) (please note calls to this number may be monitored for training and quality assurance purposes) Subscribe by post to: G n Intermedia Unit 6 The Enterprise Centre Kelvin Lane Manor Royal Crawley RH10 9PE Subscription enquiries: ginmag@subscriptionhelp ine co uk Distributed by Seymour International Ltd Gin is published six times a year (February, Apri , June, August, October & December) Paragraph Publ shing is a member of the Professional Publishers Association ISSN 2515 1177 Paragraph Publishing abides by the Independent Press Standards Organisation (IPSO) rules and regulations as detai ed in The Editor s Code of Practice To make a formal complaint about any editorial content, please contact editorial@paragraphpublishing com or write to response, you may appeal to IPSO at www ipso co uk The publishers assume no responsibility for any effects from errors or omissions All materia published in Gin is copyright and reproduction is forbidden without the permission of the publishers Printed in England by Page Bros, Norwich Cover image: Laurens Speek from Dutch distillery Hooghoudt ©Hooghoudt CORRECTIONS AND CLARIFICATIONS In Gin Magazine issue 19 we published a glassware photograph on the bottom right hand corner of page 57 which did not include a photographer credit This image capt oned “Upcycling a Hills & Harbour G n bottle”, should have included the credit Smooth Edge 12 24 18

In this issue... N E W S & G U E S T C O L U M N S 07 DAVID T SMITH Gin on the Cape of Good Hope 09 CAROLINE ASHFORD Inside the world of gin judging 10 NEWS Latest goings on in the world of gin T H E G I N M A K E R 24 GREAT GLEN Creating a spirits legend on the banks of Loch Ness 34 WONDERBIRD SPIRITS Meet the trio of friends setting the standard for Mississippi gin P R O D U C T I O N 46 DE GRAANREPUBLIEK A new cooperative of Dutch businesses is championing better grain growing practices TA S T E 58 TASTINGS David and Bethany take on the latest batch of tastings N O T T O B E M I S S E D 12 THAT BOUTIQUE Y GIN COMPANY Bernadette explores the independent bottler showcasing some of the world’s best gins 44 GIN MANGER Pairing your breakfast food favourites with gin 54 COCKTAILS How to make use of Chartreuse in your at home gin drinks F E AT U R E S 18 US GIN ASSOCIATION Building an alliance for gin makers in the United States 28 SUSTAINABLE BARS What are bartenders and owners around the world doing to reduce their venues ’ carbon footprints? 40 JAMIE BAXTER Bethany interviews the distilling consultant who has helped to launch dozens of gin brands 52 THIS TRAVELLING LIFE Joe chats with Burleighs Gin head distiller Charlie Hendon 28 40 COVER STORY PAGE 46

WAVES OF GINDECISION? THE CHOICE IS ��OO��®iW �i�fil� Not all gins are created equal. • Adnams Copper House Dry Gin: voted World's Best Gin and crafted from grain to glass in our Southwold distillery with six carefully selected botanicals and a lot of passion PICK UP A BOTTLE AT ADNAMS.CO.UK bedrinkaware co uk

The unique landscape of South African gin

ISSUE 20 GIN 7

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR DAVID T. SMITH A TA S T E OF THE C A PE

The biggest of these is Old Buck, a gin distilled by Henry, Tayler & Ries, which is part of spirits giant Distell The second biggest is Stretton’s, which is made in Durban by Edward Snell & Co Both are dry gins, but have recently expanded their Things began to change on the South African g in scene in 2011 with the release of Inverroche

The gin market in South Africa, like that of many countries before their local gin renaissance, used to be dominated by a couple of multinational brand imports and a couple of more affordable, domestic brands

Firstly, from a regulatory point of view: the minimum ABV of g in changes in US regulations, South Africa g in terroir: capturing a sense of place in not suitable or safe to use as botanicals, but here are some of the varieties most peel as is typical with lemons or oranges, rich, succulent fruitiness with a hint of sources many of the botanicals

The resulting g in is actually Cape Fynbos Gin is another without having to leave the comfort of the country of South Africa is still well worth a visit in person!

Inside the world of spirits judging

ISSUE 20 GIN 9

It often feels like gin competition results are announced every day, with winners proudly splashing their success across their social media platforms. With so many awards, one might ask, are there too many? Does everyone walk away with a medal? Would it make you choose one gin over another? Not all competitions are created equal. At worst, some are merely a money making scheme for the organisers; at their best, they can reveal some of the best spirits around, scored by experienced judges I have to admit that I have some skin in the game I ’ve been judg ing competitions since 2017 and now judge for the World Gin Awards, Australian Distilled Spirits Awards, and American Distilling Institute Spirits Competition

The San Francisco World Spirits Awards and International Wine and Spirits Competition are two other hig hly valued competitions. Gin competitions are meticulously organised Prior to the start of judg ing, g ins are tasted by stewards to determine the order in which they should be tasted. Generally, spirits are ordered by ABV and Judges come from various backgrounds: distillers (not judg ing their own spirits, of course!), master blenders, chefs, journalists and writers are often invited onto panels The best competitions not only have judges with vast experience, but also from different locations around the world You would be surprised how palates vary between countries, which is useful for offering up new perspectives on a spirit A chair of judges is appointed to oversee proceedings and can be called upon to offer advice, or a second opinion when judges cannot agree Gins are delivered to judges for evaluation and tasted in the same way as in a wine competition you spit the liquid out once you’ve tasted it We go back to each g in a few times before g iving a score How g ins are scored varies between competitions, but generally marks are awarded for appearance, aroma, palate, balance and medals are generally awarded for 74 81 9 points, silver 82 89 9 and gold 90 100 Double gold medals are awarded when all the judges on a panel award a gold medal. A good competition will insist that judges also provide feedback on each spirit, offering distillers the chance to consider making adjustments to their process. This silver medal or hig her in future

Some distillers use competitions as a way of ‘benchmarking’ their g ins seeing how they perform against other similar the same medal as a distillery they admire

For a new brand, a great result can really propel a business forward Media interest is vital when cutting throug h on social media is a challenge and marketing budgets are limited. A newsworthy result can also open doors with previously elusive retailers and thereby have a direct impact on sales Tim Boast, distiller at Never Never Distilling Co , shared his perspective with me: “ Winning an award can be an incredible validation that our g ins are liked by more people than our own mums, but in all seriousness, we set out to become a g lobal brand and awards are one way of us knowing that we are on the rig ht path ”

GUEST COLUMNIST CAROLINE ASHFORD GOING FOR GOLD

London in June that discussed awards and medals, and it was clear from questions asked by the audience that there is a lack of understanding about how spirits are scored If this is truly the case, then more information and transparency must be made available to consumers

One thing is for sure: tasting g in is a subjective experience I love g ins my friends dislike and vice versa A swathe of medals across a label is no guarantee that you will enjoy a particular g in I would always recommend you tr y before you commit to buying a whole bottle!

... at their best, they can reveal some of the best spiri ts around, scored by experienced judges

Gin News 10 GIN ISSUE 20

The duo teamed up last year to write Negroni, a collection of 30 classic and original recipes for this world famous Italian cocktail Dessert Cocktails, published by Ryland Peters & Small, is available from mid August (RRP £8 99) D E S S E R T C O C K T A I L S © A L E X L U C K E D E N M I L L S A L C O M B E D I S T L L N G C O | N E L S O N S D S T I L L E R Y

This page: Gin Pearl variation, Rhubarb and Custard Old Fashioneds, and a Brandy Alexander from Dessert Cocktails

While gin cocktails are a focus, the book also features other spirits including American and Scotch whiskies, vodka and rum It includes classics such as the W hite Russian and Gin Alexander alongside original recipes including the Colorado Bulldog, Hot Apple Crumble, and a Rhubarb and Custard Old Fashioned For the ultimate dessert treat, there are even ice cream drinks such as the White Cargo David T. Smith is a drinks writer, consultant, and judge for spirits competitions including the World Gin Awards and the International Wine and Spirit Competition (IWSC) He is Gin Magazine’s contributing editor and, in 2021, became the seventh inductee in the magazine’s Hall of Fame Brooklyn, New York resident Keli Rivers has almost 30 years’ experience in the hospitality industry, including at world renowned San Francisco bar Whitechapel She is currently Sipsmith’s US brand ambassador

Renowned gin writers and judges Keli Rivers and David T Smith are hoping to satisfy to your sweet tooth with their new cocktail book Dessert Cocktails is a collection of 40 recipes for occasions that call for sweet liquid indulgence, whether as a grown up alternative to dessert or a cocktail hour treat From chocolate, caramel and coffee, to fruity is a dessert cocktail here to suit all tastes

Gin wri ters launch dessert cocktails collection

This page, from top: Six Rivers: Eden Gin, from Eden Mill and Gordon Ramsay; Paul Ainsworth with a bottle of Salcombe Distilling Co ‘Daring’ gin; Michel Roux Jr admires a bottle of gin at Nelson’s Distillery

Gin News ISSUE 20 GIN 11

A bespoke glass bottle has been designed for the Six Rivers range, using 18 per cent less glass than the industry standard Two Michelin star chef Michel Roux Jr partnered with Neil Harrison, founder and master distiller at Nelson’s Distiller y and School, to create the Le Gavroche Gin, named in homage to his world famous restaurant Roux Jr visited the Nelson’s headquarters in Staffordshire to help create the new spirit, which is designed to evoke the scents of Provence, France and combines 28 botanicals

A perfect partnership: Tr y these g ins created wi th celebri ty chefs

Chefs and distillers have quite a lot in common in their work: they come up with recipes, that we want to consume. Below are some examples of gins created in partnership with chefs you may recognise some of the names! In its Voyager series, Salcombe Distilling Co has partnered with renowned chefs and drinks creators to bring a fresh twist to its gin The most recent addition to the series, released in April 2021, is ‘Daring’, created in partnership with chef Paul Ainsworth It is inspired by his Cornish oyster dish, ‘A Tale of Porthilly’, which is a signature dish at his Michelin starred Padstow restaurant Paul Ainsworth at No6 British chef and restaurateur Marco Pierre White launched his Mr White’s London dry gin ahead of World Gin Day 2021 He worked with Cygnet Distillery master distiller Dai Wakely on the new gin, which is said to be juniper led and features orange, lemon verbena and lavender in its botanical mix. Also launched in 2021, James Martin Gin named for and released in collaboration with the celebrity chef and T V presenter was designed as a full bodied spirit “that packs a punch” Slowly distilled in small batches, it contains 11 classic botanicals and comes in apothecar y style bot tles wi th wooden stoppers, at a strength of 44% ABV Acclaimed chef and transatlantic TV sensation Gordon Ramsay is partnering with Eden Mill Distillery in St Andrews, Scotland on the six Six Rivers: Eden Gin (46% ABV ), is named after Scotland’s Eden River and inspired by the Scottish honey berry and mara seaweed

Distiller y Focus That Boutique y Gin Company

M E S S A G E I N

12 GIN ISSUE 20

The gin industry is one of creativity, building experiences through the senses to convey stories: a place, a time, a snapshot of a moment. Creativity is the life source and something together? There have been some fantastic collaborations in recent years Four Pillars is certainly deserving of a mention, launching incredible products such as Spice Trade Gin in collaboration with India’s Stranger and Sons But this article is really focused on That Boutique y Gin Company (TBGC), which has produced an incredible spectrum of ideas across everything from g ins evoking fresh rain, to g ins that are an uncanny foreshadowing of events to come This may sound too odd to be true, but sometimes

Distiller y Focus That Boutique y Gin Company Meet the independent gin bottler that uses world class gins as a platform to explore fresh and innovative ideas

ISSUE 20 GIN 13

David T Smith explains the concept: “ That Boutique y Gin Company is split into two parts: one is creating fun g ins with the internal g in at Atom, producing g ins such as Spit Roasted Pineapple and Moonshot The other part is focused on collaborations with existing distillers, where we work together on a concept, the distillers make the spirit, and Rosie Milsom [g lobal head of NPD at Atom Brands] and the team at Atom Supply do the rest ” Each bottle features a hand designed label relevant to what’s inside; for a collaboration, the label almost always features those that have collaborated on it For example, its

Shortcross Estate Foraged Gin features David T Smith forag ing on the label, as he did in person The labels are designed by artist Grace J. Ward, who is in a way collaborating with TBGC by doing this One of the simplest ways to create is to build on something that already exists, to

BY BERNADETTE PAMPLIN

A B O T TL E

Distiller y Focus That Boutique y Gin Company 14 GIN ISSUE 20 twist and tweak and blur the lines of what we know So, when TBGC partnered with Conker Gin and rum legend Pete Holland, both based in Dorset, the resulting g in makes an awful lot of sense. Mojito Gin is a hybrid of g in and rum made with a molasses base as opposed to wheat and distilled with mint and lime for a brig ht, zesty, cool g in that is great for sipping on a hot day It was important for TBGC to keep the input local. Conker created the g in, and Pete tested the samples, inputting feedback and suggestions until the g in was ready for production I asked Rupert Holloway, founder of Conker, to tell me a little bit about the process “ We were honoured to be approached, to be honest,” he said “ TBGC had previously collaborated with a long list of distilleries we too something we enjoy here! How do you in a distilled g in? No mean feat Luckily, this collaboration had a third strand to its bow in the form of Peter Holland, known locally in Bournemouth as ‘Mr Rum’ and rum guru at the That Boutique y Rum Company “It was an exciting R&D process exploring the Mojito cocktail and how best to bring this across throug h the distillation of botanicals We landed on swapping out our wheat spirit for a molasses spirit, instantly lifting the g in to the heady, sweeter ester notes found in rum. We then distilled this spirit with huge quantities of fresh lime peel and mint to create a wonderful celebration In April 2017, a g in summit was held in Washington, DC by the American Distilling Institute To commemorate this prestig ious event, bring ing distillers together from around the world, a g in was created to celebrate the local DC distilling scene. Five local distilleries each created their own distillates, which were then blended to make Alex L aufer, co founder and CEO of District Opening pages: A selection of the That Boutique y Gin Company portfolio These pages, from bottom left: TBGC has partnered with distilleries including Conker Gin; Distilling, from the outside

Back in 2019, Masons of Yorkshire began working with TBGC on Smouldering Heig hts Gin, an ode to the annual burning of heathland in Yorkshire to renew the earth and encourage new growth of the area’s been developed, and the g in was in production, when disaster struck It brings a unique oppor tuni ty to connect wi th somewhere over a great distance...

ISSUE 20 GIN 15 © T H A T B O U T I Q U E Y G N C O M P A N Y C O N K E R G N R E Y L O P E Z M A S O N S O F Y O R K S H I R E | H E R N Ö Distillers tells me, “David Smith approached us in November 2016 to produce a g in in time for the g in summit He asked each distillery to provide a juniper distillate, then we each chose one or two botanical distillates to bring to the blend We distilled Appalachian allspice and angelica New Columbia Distillers distilled rosemary Joseph Magnus distilled fresh oro blanco grapefruit District Distilling distilled hops and tarragon “ We set equal percentages of each juniper distillate and tasted throug h broad ranges of percentages of each other distillate before setting the blend

Joseph Magnus and Republic Restoratives use corn NGS [neutral grain spirit]

“ The base distillate compositions were different in each case We and District Distilling distilled our own rye bases New Columbia distilled a wheat base.

The distillates were blended, proofed down and bottled with everyone’s help at our distillery.” DC Gin is a remarkable snapshot of what was happening in DC at the time: a soft, slinky nose of creamy citrus and lig ht and rye bread on the palate, followed by then, towards the end, the oro blanco pops back with earthy angelica and a peek of rose and violet. It brings a unique opportunity to connect with somewhere over a great distance, and now a time in the past, with some of the distilleries that contributed no longer in operation “I love the analog y of a snapshot,” explains Alex “Often when I talk about distilling, I liken the process of distilling, especially how the spirit changes coming off the still or how the spirit matures in a barrel, to a movie, chang ing from bottle is a still photograph In some ways to the craft of distilling, but as with most of its parts ”

Distiller y Focus That Boutique y Gin Company 16 GIN ISSUE 20 was an enormous shock to the community Thankfully, no one was hurt, but owners Karl and Cathy Mason watched their business burn down in a day. The Masons and their team had the enormous and potentially overwhelming task of cleaning up and starting again With the support of the community, they were able to do this and now acknowledge the event with their own Phoenix g in Smouldering Heig hts was still released throug h TBGC, and that spooky prediction of events has been immortalised fruity notes with a lingering hint of earthy smoke in the background Its botanicals include beech and peat smoked malt, heather, and Szechuan pepper

In 2018, I attended a launch party in London where TBGC was releasing a series of g ins in collaboration with fragrance specialist Lizzie Ostrom from Odette Toilette She worked with the team to create four g ins: Fresh Rain, based on the idea of petrichor (the smell of rain falling on dry earth); Beware of the Woods, based on a primordial forest; Dead King, using aromatics that are used in embalming; and Big Dipper, capturing the essence of a fairground, everything from dinky donuts to the grease used to keep rides limber for the wailing thrill seeker At the end of the event, attendees were g iven a goody bag including a box of roll on scent bottles, each containing a g in to roll on the wrist like a perfume It’s a pretty neat concept, rig ht? But of course, they went one further, working with artist Phillipa Staunton who produced a series of paintings that used synaesthesia where the brain connects the experiences of one sense to another to express the g ins in colour

It’s all good being creative, but how good are the products? A clumsily rendered pasta elephant could well stay up on the fridge for years, but a clumsy g in is a one time purchase. These g ins generally come out the same standard as everything that went in, and it’s top notch stuff so much so, that TBGC’s collaboration with Hernö, Swedish Rose Gin, not only won a gold outstanding at the International Wine and Spirit Competition, but went on to pick up the competition’s London Dry Gin trophy in 2017

Creating can be exhausting and TBGC is a little quieter nowadays There are still a fair few of its releases up for grabs online and there is always the possibility of something new coming out down the line But for now, it seems that there is a little pause from Other distilleries are picking up the baton You could say that ideas may eventually run out, but with all the wonderful minds in the g in industry, I ’m not sure that’s coming any time soon Like the colliding of atoms, molecules and compounds, every new input creates a whole host of possibilities and eventual outcomes These pages, from bottom left: The stills at Masons of Yorkshire’s new distillery; Cathy and Karl Mason; Jon Hillgren of Her nö Gin

ISSUE 20 GIN 17

Founded in 2015, gin has always been its focus The distillery produces Conniption American Dry Gin, in addition to a Navy Strength Gin, a barrel aged gin and several canned cocktails including a gin and tonic.

18 GIN ISSUE 20 Inter view US Gin Association

BY AARON KNOLL

U N I T ED W E STA N D

But most recently Melissa and Lee made headlines by founding the US Gin Association to help g in producers band together to advance the category stateside. We sat down with Melissa Katrincic to learn a bit about the association and their plans for American g in

The founders of the US Gin Association are committed to building a community and a platform for the country’s gin distillers

Melissa and Lee Katrincic are the co founders of North Carolina’s Durham Distillery.

ISSUE 20 GIN 19

Aaron Knoll (AK): Firstly, what is the US Gin Association and why create a new association solely for US distillers?

We combat, as US g in distillers, the perception by retailers in this country that imported g ins are superior to US g ins.

Melissa Katrincic (MK): We founded the US Gin Association in 2021 with the intention to move the category forward It is not the white spirit of choice in the United States That is vodka So, not only do we have to really educate around the g in category, we also have to provide an opportunity for both consumers and retailers to explore US g ins with the understanding that there are some really amazing g ins being produced in this country.

AK: Tell me the story about what led you to found the US Gin Association MK: W hen Lee and I launched Conniption in 2015 we very quickly realised the layers of selling g in that were just not well understood. They’re not understood by the distributors and there are different ways to hook in a retailer, or hook in a restaurant or bar, to even care about a small g in versus the big guys the imports especially for the United States. So, we started to learn these processes and approaches over the next couple of years It was really rig ht around 2017, when Lee and I travelled over to London for Junipalooza and we realised how much organic passion for g in there really is and there still is today

Inter view US Gin Association © F O O D S E E N D A N I E L T U R B E R T P H O T O G R A P H Y D U R H A M D I S T L L E R Y

AK: How do you try and replicate that passion here? MK: You have to start somewhere and one sing le brand trying to get throug h to that tipping point in the United States is really too much of a challenge So, how do we together look at that? I saw the seeds of it with the Sing le Malt Association as they

Opening pages: Durham Distillery’s Conniption Gin These pages, from left: A Conniption Gin Martini; Melissa Katrincic; Enjoying a drink at Durham Distillery

AK: Looking at your impressive list of charter members, you have some very senior and well known members of the American gin community involved MK: The longer you’ve been in progressing the g in category in the United States the more you understand what the challenges are that we’re facing. As you’re growing g in in this country to try and not only have a foothold in your reg ion but also growing into a national brand, which is extraordinarily that “how do you learn from each other?” and “how do you make sure that what you’re putting together meets the needs of the category?”

ISSUE 20 GIN 21 Inter view US Gin Association founded themselves in the US to not only get on with the [government] guidelines for labelling sing le malt but also to create passion with the retailers, the restaurants, and the consumer At that stage [it] was fairly unknown and not well established in this country There are very few distilleries in this country who focus on g in, and what I mean by that is where probably 70 per cent [or more] of their revenue per year is from the g in that they distil. I don’t know… there’s probably fewer than 20 of us

MK: Yes It’s very much a “crawl and walk before you run” approach It’s going to take time, but building a foundation is critical to our success long term I know what the Southeast challenges are, but I have absolutely no insig ht into what the about making sure that we all have an ability to share what challenges we’re facing in our individual markets So, you can’t bring in bartenders and association with journalists or media until facing all in these different reg ions How do you build programs that can cross over US GIN ASSOCIATION FOUNDING MEMBERS

AK: I know it’s early, but your initial membership is entirely composed of distillers. W hat are your plans for engaging with the larger community? As an example, what about bartenders?

Philadelphia Distilling Pennsylvania Bluecoat American Dry Gin, Gin for Seltzer, Barrel Finished Gin, Elderflower Dry Gin Gray Whale Gin California Gray Whale Gin

Distillery/Brand State Gin Durham Distillery North Carolina Conniption American Dry Gin, Navy Strength Gin, Barrel Aged Gin Black Button Distilling New York Citrus forward Gin, Lilac Gin, Loganberry Gin, American Dry Gin, Barrel Reserve Gin Watershed Distillery Ohio Four Peel Gin, Bourbon Barrel Gin, Guild Gin Golden Moon Distillery Colorado Golden Moon Gin, Port Cask Reserve Gin

Caledonia Spirits Vermont Barr Hill Gin, Tom Cat Gin Revivalist Gin Pennsylvania Solstice, Summertide, Equinox and Harvest Expression Botanical Gins, Dragondance Jalapeño Botanical Gin Freeland Spirits Oregon Freeland Spirits Gin, Dry (Navy Strength) Gin

The purpose for the US Gin Association remains a way to strateg ically grow the categor y

22 GIN ISSUE 20 Inter view US Gin Association Because that’s just not going to work AK: For our readers who haven’t been to the United States or experienced its size and diversity, could you elaborate a bit on why understanding regionality is so important? MK: side and then the consumer side From the industry side, trendlines that come foremost to the big metros For example, a not even an approach in this country until we saw it cross over from Spain and Eng land, enoug h traction by industry in those metros, it does go out to [other] reg ions But then you have to factor in seasonality Then you have to factor in the approach of whether or not g in is a primary go to spirit for programming Gin is still very much a part of programs in those big metros but cities, it dilutes to maybe only 5 10 per cent of their program So you’ve got that, [but] a consumer’s exposure to the g in category is very much based upon what has been approved and what is being sold in their state There is no national direct to consumer ability to order There is no Amazon ordering of spirits in this country So, what they have is only what they see that has been sold to the liquor store in their neig hbourhood AK: There are many gin organisations around the world one major, well known one being the Gin Guild. How is the US Gin Association different? MK: We are not at all thinking that we’re a replica of the Gin Guild. The purpose for the US Gin Association really remains a way to strateg ically grow the category [locally] and get to that tipping point in the United States The Gin Guild, on the other hand, is so much more of an authority on what’s happening in g in internationally I would still want all of our members to become Gin Guild members I think that [they’re] complementary If they’re going in, selling a g in and able to say that they’ve been inducted into the Gin Guild, that brings a weig ht, and the conversation gets elevated rig ht away [it means] that I know what I ’m talking about AK: W hat initiatives have you undertaken thus f ar or are planning for the next year for the association? MK: then agree as a group to the strateg ic priorities that we would have for the next 18 to 24 months. Those strateg ic priorities include what kind of programming we want to put together for education for retailers and education for the consumer, and then whether or not we would have the ability to layer in a differentiator at the point of sale That mig ht be a sticker on the bottle, it mig ht be a shelf talker things that would identify that g in as a US Gin Association g in, and that distillery as part of this initiative

Inter view US Gin Association

AK: W hat is your vision for the next 10 years of the US Gin Association? MK: Wow, 10 years! I ’m just trying to get throug h the next two AK: Then how about the next two? MK: I ’m so passionate about the g in category in this country, and I see a real opportunity for the mindset to change with our consumers and our retailers that g in is not only a worthy category, but a growing one If you were to walk into any liquor store in any state in this country, they would all approach the g in shelf differently. It’s a mix and mash of all different styles of g in, because there’s not an understanding of the different styles and categories of g in here Imports and domestic are all mixed in! Different price points are mixed in! Flavoured g ins are mixed in, and the consumer is so confused when they see that shelf In 10 years, I would like a consumer to know what the categories of g in are, how they’re different from one another, and how they apply in a cocktail To walk into a retailer, be able to ask really sophisticated questions, get responses, and go to the g in shelf and see it organised appropriately. That, for me, is because we’re starting at ground zero There’s not an understanding of what vodka versus g in is and there certainly isn’t an understanding here of what London dry versus contemporary is So, we’re working throug h those layers [and] deniability to the fact that g in is really such an expansive category in and of itself

Opening pages: xxxxx These pages, from left: xxxThese pages, clockwise from top: Melissa and Lee Katrincic; Melissa tends to the still; Conniption American Dry Gin

Distiller y Focus Great Glen 24 GIN ISSUE 20

How two friends are combining their backgrounds in hospitality to create a monster success on the shores of Loch Ness

BY GAVIN D SMITH

Distiller y Focus Great Glen ISSUE 20 GIN 25

The st u ff of legend s

Loch Ness is renowned the world over for its elusive ‘monster,’ but the gin distillery developed close to its shores by Daniel Campbell and Adam Dwyer is probably the smallest in Scotland Measuring just 24 square metres, the Great Glen distillery is situated in a former shop once run by Campbell’s late mother in the busy tourist village of Drumnadrochit, Inverness shire Campbell has 20 years of experience in the hospitality industry to his credit, completing a course in hospitality management at the renowned César Ritz Colleges in Switzerland subsequently launched a successful tea Meanwhile, Adam Dwyer spent 20 years as for the last 14 years acting in a head chef/ in 2012 to take up a position as head chef cottage next to mine was home to John Macdonald, who was in court many times for and seeing a gap in the market along the idea to my best friend and now business administration, stock control and ordering, while Campbell is responsible for the sales Dwyer adds, “Daniel’s time in hospitality working alongside people who are now our target customers and understands the needs According to Campbell, “Adam gained a huge combinations and organisational skills and been an easy one, with many of the skills he learned as a chef easily transferring to on recipes, costings, dealing with suppliers, being…a total perfectionist are all important

Distiller y Focus Great Glen 26 GIN ISSUE 20 Before Campbell and Dwyer began trading, a year was spent planning and building Campbell explains, “For the identity, we felt compelled to reference the natural fault line distillery, Campbell and Dwyer looked rest of the equipment came from Polsinelli, a Scottish Gin and Great Glen Premium so many g ins in Scotland now and we found during tasting and research that a lot of recipes, using some local botanicals but and sheep’s sorrel, two ingredients that are found in abundance around the distillery, lemon peels are used per batch) and royal golden chantarelle mushrooms and kelp its production requires more space and character and must be in Drumnadrochit, so using some local botanicals but not

Most recently, the distillery was shortlisted for the Scottish Food & Drink Excellence Awards, the winners of which will be ‘Distilling Product of the Year,’ it’s not just g in, so this is the biggest accolade for me so Clearly, the partnership between Campbell and Dwyer at the Great Glen distillery is well G E

A T G L E N D I S T L L E R Y

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Invergarry Dores Tomatin Aviemore Newtonmore Nairn Forres Dunphail Rosemarkie Fearn NORTH SEA SCOTLAND Great Glen Opening pages: Great Glen Premium Scottish Gin

Great Glen is open daily for retail sales Campbell also attend farmers’ markets at the weekends, “not just to make sales but to get on a trainee distiller, Simone Peter, who is employment is aided by local renewables charity Soirbheas, which funds a percentage of wages and training costs for people in the Only a month after launching, Great Glen’s

These pages, from left: A Great Glen G&T; The still room at Great Glen distillery; A closer look at Great Glen’s gin our own barley crops for when we start to the planning which will allow customers a Due to the current ‘bijou’ nature of Great Glen distillery, a second unit has been taken on for storage and bottling purposes, but g in making takes place during the nig ht, so there is space to run the retail side of the business

Invergordon Cannich For t Augustus Dingwall BInverness eauly Ledgowan Foyers

Sustainability Sustainable Bars 28 GIN ISSUE 20 Setti ng the bar How hospitality venues are supporting the gin industry in its bid to become more sustainable BY SARAH MILLER

The hospitality sector’s supply chain is estimated to be responsible for 15 per cent of all greenhouse gas emissions in the UK and yet, despite being part of such a notoriously wasteful industry, bars have been relatively slow to confront their environmental impact It came naturally to Ryan Chetiyawardana, a Buddhist and a biolog ist as well as a bartender and founder, to consider his impact on others and the planet But when he opened East London’s W hite Lyan in 2013 a bar which shunned ice, perishables and brands and was, by his own admission, “pretty extreme to put it mildly” it was perceived as something of an affront to an industry that couldn’t reconcile sustainability with the luxury product and experience it was promoting

But then, in 2015, a video of a marine biolog ist removing a plastic straw from a turtle’s nose went viral, prompting a sea change in attitude which was accelerated by both public demand and the pandemic The UK’s ban on plastic straws in are now trying to adopt, and some pioneers have made an integral part of how they do business.

Revolution Bars hit the headlines in December 2021 by replacing the passion fruit garnish in its best selling Pornstar Martini with an edible rice paper alternative Recognising the garnish added little to the drink, and usually ended up in the bin, the bar group will save more than 107 tonnes of carbon every year by not airfreig hting 36 tonnes of the fruit from South America

Sustainability Sustainable Bars ISSUE 20 GIN 29

The sizeable footprint of spirits is one of the reasons Stephen Mutty at Silo the London restaurant founded by Doug las McMaster and hailed by Ryan Chetiyawardana as “the only actual sustainable venue” keeps his drinks list deliberately small Sourcing the rig ht brands to work with, based on both their current environmental credentials and format is also integral to minimising Silo’s waste streams and impact One of Stephen’s recent successes was sourcing Arbikie’s carbon negative Nàdar Gin in ecoSPIRIT format. A world’s 4 5 litre totes eliminate 70 90 per cent of the CO2 associated with the packag ing and distribution of spirits compared to sing le use g lass bottles Now offering more than 30 brands, including Beefeater, Citadelle and Never Never Triple Juniper g in, to more than 1,000 venues in 12 countries, ecoSPIRITS

These pages, from left: Draught tonic from London Essence; ‘Climate positive’ Nàdar Gin; A bottled cocktail from Silver Circle Distillery; Dispensing Hepple Gin; Jude’s Gin Garden

Removing wasteful garnishes such as the coffee beans that grace many an Espresso Martini and withdrawing sing le use items such as napkins, while undoubtedly impactful on a large scale, is merely tinkering on the marg ins. Althoug h, to g ive Revolution Bars its due, it has also committed to achieve net zero by 2030, 20 years ahead of the UK’s legal deadline, in part by improving energ y Indeed, The Net Zero Pubs and Bars Initiative, launched last summer, found that its pilot sites used an average of 30 per cent more energ y than best practice guidance, and advised that pubs could achieve a 10 per cent reduction in carbon emissions just by switching to a renewable electricity supplier venues with a roadmap to measure the climate impact of their full value chain, enabling them to then mitigate, and compensate for, their emissions Althoug h different styles of venues face different challenges, the forecast footprint of bar makes interesting reading: of the 18 tonnes of CO2e (carbon dioxide equivalent) that the Rabbit Hole bar was expected to produce in relation to the festival (including upstream purchasing and transport and downstream derig and waste), 35 per cent was attributed solely to the drinks, with a footprint of 0 91kg CO2e per serve

30 GIN ISSUE 20

Opening pages: The team at Four Pillars’ new distillery bar

Providing products in bulk format risks producers losing visibility on the backbar indeed, Silo doesn’t have one but it’s a risk James Porteous deems necessary “ This type of returnable, zero waste system is the future of spirits in the on trade. It’ll be a big adjustment, and it’ll scare a lot of brands who rely on visual presence to sell their product but it’s unquestionably worth it ” W hile James ponders what the backbar mig ht look like if bottles are no longer required to pour from, Hepple Spirits has found a different solution which sees its stunning 10 litre Hepple g lass balloon take pride of place in venues such

Sustainability Sustainable Bars ISSUE 20 GIN 31 is also launching a pilot programme with Accolade Wines in Australia in August 2022 Bulk delivery formats aren’t a new concept polylaminate pouches to the on trade in 2012 but it’s an idea that has caug ht on particularly with smaller brands keen to serve their local community James Porteous at Edinburg h’s Electric Spirit Co. options when he learnt that The Palmerston restaurant received its cooking wine in kegs With an agreement in place to use Achroous as the house g in, James agreed a steel kegs wrapped in striking orange Tuscan leather With each keg saving 4 5kg of weig ht (and related emissions) compared to the equivalent amount of bottled g in, it’s a popular concept which is now offered to other local venues (without the leather wrap!) via Royal Mile W hiskies, whose depot is only 1 3 miles from the distillery Wales’s Silver Circle Distillery has taken a similar approach, offering its pre batched cocktails in 5 litre jerry cans for busy bars like Propyard in Bristol Eliminating the use of 10 g lass bottles per can, pre batched cocktails also save staff time and, if chilled prior to service, can dramatically reduce the amount of ice a venue requires. Given the hig h energ y demands of most commercial many water cooled machines consume approximately 100 150 litres of water per 10kg of ice it is something that any bar with sustainable ambitions should consider.

© L O N D O N E S S E N C E | A R B K E D I S T L L E R Y S I L V E R C R C L E D S T I L L E R Y | H E P P L E G I N F O U R P L L A R S E L E C T R I C S P R I T C O U G L Y B U T T E R L Y H I M K O K

Sydney’s RE founded by Matt W hiley, previously of Scout takes a holistic approach to sustainability and is, like Silo, These pages, from left: Gin taps in Four Pillars’ distillery bar; Making a Gimlet at Electric Spirit Co; Adam Handling’s Ugly Butterly; Drinks on tap at Himkok

Sustainability Sustainable Bars 32 GIN ISSUE 20 separate 25 litre drum can be returned and For a truly sustainable experience, there’s nothing like sipping something that’s been distilled on site At Four Pillars’ new carbon neutral distillery in Australia’s Yarra Valley, it will save a staggering 29 tonnes of g lass per year by ingeniously piping g in directly into the main bar throug h an eye catching array of copper pipes and serving kegged tonic water Meanwhile, on the other side of the world, London Essence has launched draug ht tonic on tap which reduces the need for packag ing by 96 per cent Oslo’s Himkok bar also houses a distillery, powered by renewable hydroelectricity, that produces more than 80 per cent of the spirits served in the bar The only g ins on offer are the four made on site, including an Old Tom diluted with birch sap Himkok also collaborates with local producers and farmers to source ingredients as locally as apple acidities to replace lemon and lime in all but its classic cocktails This farm to table approach, which offers full traceability and reduces carbon emissions, has gathered momentum in the drinks industry At Adam Handling’s Ug ly Bay, as much as possible is sourced locally, as a whole ingredient, with the bar using “trims” and “offcuts” from the kitchen to create drinks, garnishes and snacks The life of seasonal ingredients is also extended by creating cordials, distillates, ferments and shrubs, which form the foundation of the venue’s signature cocktails and are also displayed in its “wall of jars”, used to explain the ethos of each drink to guests.

If the pandemic accelerated awareness of, and commitment to, environmental sustainability it also shone a brig ht lig ht on the importance of human sustainability. After everything the hospitality industry has been throug h recently, recruiting, retaining and supporting staff has to be at the top of everyone’s agenda, as it is at Himkok, where bar manager Maroš Dzurus declares a sustainable working environment is more important than a sustainable bar.

Bartenders have an almost unique opportunity to engage every person who joins them for a drink, and to act as a conduit between producer and consumer. They can’t do it all government action is required too but the ability to create sustainable cocktails from “waste” is a mag ic only master mixolog ists can employ to persuade people of the power of a drink that not only tastes good, but does good too

L aunched in October 2021, Matt’s Never Wasted initiative collects food “waste” and by products from eig ht nearby venues and suppliers, alongside surplus fruit and vegetables from Sydney’s markets, to create RE’s cocktail menu. His ambitious aims are to grow the initiative to include all hospitality venues across the city, and to cut food waste by 80 per cent

Sustainability Sustainable Bars ISSUE 20 GIN 33

built from the ground up using mostly recycled materials, including a bar top made from mycelium (a material derived from mushrooms) W hereas Silo’s drinks offering takes inspiration and some offcuts from its kitchen, and only uses ingredients that are grown or foraged locally, Matt has taken the concept one step further.

Distiller y Focus Wonderbird Spiri ts 34 GIN ISSUE 20

WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS

How three friends were drawn to a mythical Mississippi county to launch

The third partner, Tom Alexander, was Forster’s roommate at the University of Virg inia 25 years ago, and best man at his job in Austin, Texas, and moved to Oxford to you very well know, once you’ve introduced that fore note of juniper, you are then at liberty to truly create something completely and utterly unique, unlike anything else that BY ANDREW FAULKNER

Distiller y Focus Wonderbird Spiri ts ISSUE 20 GIN 35

Answering the call

Yoknapatawpha County (pronounced just like it’s spelled) is the setting for almost all the books by the great author William Faulkner (no relation) Substituting the name Jefferson for the county seat of Oxford, Mississippi, and similar names for almost recognisable places, the novelist names one real place Taylor, Mississippi in his otherwise In Go Down, Moses, Lucas Beauchamp hid his moonshine still every dawn in the creek bed in Yoknapatawpha County but unlike the county, Wonderbird is real, located fewer than 10 miles south of Faulkner’s Rob Forster felt drawn to Oxford after his father, an Ole Miss (University of Mississippi ) graduate and longtime resident, passed Forster said, “I experienced one of those taps that you get from life every once in a yourself in the mirror and be honest: you should take your family, move to Oxford, and He ditched his career as a movie industry attorney and headed out to Oxford, not knowing quite yet what he wanted to do with the rest of his life, but that he wanted to this town of 40,000 residents has an elevated food and beverage scene, which includes It also wasn’t long before Forster heard about Chand Harlow, an Oxford resident and Mississippi native who had a similar dream “[Harlow] had this as a burning passion since he was in his teens, to start a distillery not trying to make a $20 bottle of hooch to

Distiller y Focus Wonderbird Spiri ts 36 GIN ISSUE 20 involves heating the mash up to four very

For their base ingredient, the Wonderbird partners settled on jasmine rice, which they source from Two Brook Farms in Sumner in Tallahatchie County, a family owned “ W hat we wanted to do was buy a local agricultural product, and then turn it into our base alcohol, and then learn how to really long time and there’s gonna be a lot of experimenting, and a lot of failing, and a

Homeopathically, red clover top is known in your bathwater is said to keep away grow all over medians and bridges and hig hways all over northern Mississippi and

“I really take my hat off to Tom and Chand “ Those guys cracked some pretty arcane Harlow and Alexander learned a technique that reduced the fermentation time from 30 40 days down to about eig ht days, which The jasmine rice gave their base spiri t the warm, viscous mouthfeel and natural aromatics

In constructing the recipe, these perfectionists don’t simply throw all of this in the pot or a basket and distil it, even thoug h they have a still custom made ingredient comes over the still at different times, Wonderbird makes concentrated sing le botanical spirits on small laboratory stills, making heads and tails cuts tailored by blending these distillates into the base in all three of us wanted to unleash creativity that we had bottled in us in our corporate

The jasmine rice gave their base spirit the warm, viscous mouthfeel and natural aromatics that support the other botanicals elegantly, but it is also slow to convert fermentation, they attend sake making workshops, treating the grain the way a sake brewer would, breaking down the starches

After perfecting that technique, the next we got up in the 60s, and we had a really the 80s, but we kept coming back to number In addition to juniper, Wonderbird Spirits root, fresh Meyer lemon, lemongrass, black tellicherry peppercorn, rosemary, and pine and red clover tops (the particularly Mississippi ingredients), are foraged from

Distiller y Focus Wonderbird Spiri ts ISSUE 20 GIN 37 ARKANSAS LOUISIANA MISSISSIPPI ALABAMA MISSOURI KENTUCKY TENNESSEE UNITED STATES NASHVILLE LIT TLE ROCK BATON ROUGE JACKSON MONTGOMERY Huntsville Birmingham Memphis Shrevepor t LMobile ake Charles Branson Wonderbird Spirits

Distiller y Focus Wonderbird Spiri ts 38 GIN ISSUE 20 Opening page: Wonderbird Gin No 61 Previous pages: Co founder Rob Forster at the distillery; The original Wonderbird Spirit These pages: Wonderbird Spirits in Taylor, Mississippi; Checking out the stills

release of the same g in that spends a few

The wood sugars and vanillin relax and

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The last of Wonderbird’s three g ins is a from marketing trips during the pandemic, Forster couldn’t help but think of his home state’s ubiquitous magnolia trees, a symbol “I live rig ht off of Ole Miss campus, and I there one day, and kind of parked my car in a random corner of campus, and broug ht some shears with me, and plucked a few of those massive magnolia blossoms, and went just started coming out perfect, so we said, ‘Can we build a second g in? Can we build a new expression that showcases midsummer Experimental Gin also contains coriander, tellicherry peppercorn and chinchona bark, but the unique character is magnolia, carrying the sweet fragrance of a summer shortly before Mississippi changed the received instant acclaim when Garden and Gun magazine named it overall winner in the In the midst of the American craft distilling world going crazy over whiskey, three partners decided to make g in with a real sense of place and make it in a place not known for distilling (Mississippi was the last

“ This project was all about us answering “not because we’re idealistic but because we felt, if we did it that way and answered those calls to our own satisfaction, good things

A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS

“It’s just another way of processing starch, really,” Jamie Baxter says He’s telling me about the breakfast cereal company he owned before he “accidentally” fell into the world of spirits and launched his successful distilling consultancy After selling his company to European cereals giant Morning Foods in around 2006, he was approached by William Chase, founder of English potato crisp brand Tyrells, who wanted a way to add value to the cereal crops he was growing in rotation with his spuds

Inter view Jamie Baxter 40 GIN ISSUE 20

“He took me on [and] we were going to build Tyrells muesli factory,” Baxter explains “Just before I joined the company I had booked starting I went off on two weeks of holiday.

W hen I came back, I found he’d cancelled all the orders for all the equipment that I had placed and he said, ‘Jamie, muesli’s really boring, how do you fancy making potato nanosecond and thoug ht, ‘this could be fun, None of the team had any distilling experience, so Baxter spent a year teaching himself how to distil and designing what would become Chase Distillery L aunched was winning international plaudits within followed in 2009 that time small scale distilling simply wasn’t allowed We didn’t realise that Sipsmith were starting up in London at the same time, and Ian Hart was starting Sacred Spirits We didn’t know, so it wasn’t a race, but we won, Sipsmith did ” decided to put his hard earned distilling knowledge to use helping others to start up. He launched his own consultancy, now Craft scenes plays well to his personality; by his own admission he is not a salesman, and his real strength lies in operational management

The UK’s g in boom was still in its embryonic stages, with a smattering of craft players in London, The Botanist on Islay, and Anno Gin in Kent, alongside Sipsmith, Scared and Meet the spirits consultant who has helped many gin distilleries to launch and some to achieve stardom BY BETHANY WHYMARK

came a phone call from Jonathan Clark, distillery in the UK to set up inside a bar, and still the only g in distillery in the Square Mile, it is now owned by Halewood Artisanal Spirits and is home to both W hitley Neill and the City of London g ins ) Business has increased exponentially in the years since, with projects across g in, whisky, include companies in France, Kenya and Asia). W hile it’s not the only spirit he works with, g in has made up the bulk of Baxter’s or so years, g in is now the second largest Trending reports). Compared to other spirits to set up and kit out a g in distillery, and that g in than it would of any other spirit Also, the still, into a bottle and out to consumers in just a few weeks, unlike whisky, which will need years in a cask before you make production to sale is enticing. As Baxter puts it, “ We are in this business to make money, Baxter’s consulting process runs the gamut of distilling: sometimes it’s something as solution. He talks to clients to understand their needs, goals and budget, then assists in distillery set up, equipment purchasing and and tax, and trains them to distil on their

Inter view Jamie Baxter ISSUE 20 GIN 41

Inter view Jamie Baxter 42 GIN ISSUE 20 © B U R L E I G H S G N | S A L C O M B E D I S T L L N G C O C H A S E D S T I L L E R Y

new equipment “Many people that we work with are from outside the industry and often they need quite a lot of hand holding,” he says “It’s not just a question of teaching them how to distil, it is trying to point them in the rig ht direction for the whole business ” W hile many of his consultancy projects are protected by non disclosure agreements, is now pushing its products in America waste (“I really like [Will’s] ethos and the way he works”); and the brand new Galway City Distillery in Ireland, a bar based distillery the sophistication of the area’s Michelin starred restaurants He is also pleased to see former protégés major cong lomerates, as happened with althoug h, as a distiller, he admits to being a little disappointed by “hard headed” entrepreneurs who “don’t get carried away with the romance of the spirit” stills at Chase Distillery, the g in landscape has changed immeasurably. The market is no longer dominated by a few megalithic players; it is perfectly leg itimate to make g in on a small scale and stick to selling locally, and there are hundreds of brands in the UK this approach, Baxter recommends a greater selling throug h distributors, wholesalers or little patch” is important, Baxter says there is no shame in dreaming big He uses another of his projects, Burleig hs Gin, as an example: Opening pages: Jamie Baxter on a visit to Burleighs Gin These pages, from left: Salcombe Distilling Co founders Howard Davies and Angus Lugsdin; Salcombe’s Marabelle Gin, and New London Light non alcoholic spirit range; On the far m with Chase Distillery

For people considering their own craft distilling project, Baxter warns against also shares a tip from a friend, distiller and author Marcel Thompson: “He’s always asked, ‘How long is it going to take to build a distillery and how much is it going to cost by two timber: it’ll either take four times as long as you think and cost twice as much, or it’ll cost four times as much as you think and take twice as long.’ And that’s a really good answer, because it’s so true But, by using a making, and also do it safely ”

Inter view Jamie Baxter ISSUE 20 GIN 43 soon after launching, the distillery got a foothold in Japan “It was fantastic to go out there, and this is from a tiny little distillery in rural Leicestershire,” he says. also teaches it He runs a week long course in Bakewell, Derbyshire, on how to set up a distillery It attracts participants from Gin, who was looking for a more hands on heard this a lot, from lots of different people, they’re getting a bit bored of sitting in front of a computer looking at spreadsheets all day their hands, and Nick decided that g in mig ht nice product and putting it in a stunning ly quite the position he’s in, because he has people approaching him asking to buy the try and sell it ”

Baxter certainly doesn’t think the g in bubble is ready to burst yet, stating that most of his increasing number of enquiries from abroad beyond the UK and has been doing for a few years now, and other countries want to put their own twist on it. Australia’s a they are all just a little bit different I teach a course once a year in America, teaching American distillers how to make g in, because and there’s loads of potential there for somebody to get it rig ht ”

THE CONTINENTAL A continental breakfast can cover a range of options, but in this case, it refers to a combination of croissant, pain au chocolat, and Danish pastries: delicious, but messy and a notable creator of crumbs The pastries, delicious as they are, can be a tad on the dry side and so an accompanying drink needs to be lively and thirst quenching things like pastry and bread? Jam! Well, in this case, marmalade This recipe calls for a small jar of marmalade; one of those mini jars that you mig ht have “acquired” at a hotel breakfast buffet is ideal The Breakf ast Martini 50 ml dry gin 15 ml orange liqueur 15 ml lemon juice One small jam jar (2 tsp) of thick cut shred orange marmalade BY ARUGULA ROCKET D R E A M T | R U

HOT BUTTERED TOAST A classic breakfast, especially when on the go or just feeling a little lackadaisical from an enjoyable nig ht before. Hot buttered toast worked particularly well when partnered with a combination of dry g in and freshly g in and the juice of one large orange, served in a well iced g lass with a stirrer. The “freshly squeezed” part of this recipe may seem a bit unnecessary and pretentious, but it makes a massive difference compared to bottled juice FULL ENGLISH / SCOTTISH / IRISH BREAKFAST W hatever the reg ional variation, this breakfast is a hearty mix of meat, potato, and bread, with maybe the odd fried or griddled vegetable thrown in It is a fantastic way to start the weekend, so why not enjoy a little accompanying libation? This drink has an ABV of around 10%, similar to Prosecco Serves 3 4 100 ml tea infused dry gin 50 ml red vermouth 25 ml orange liqueur Infuse the g in for two minutes with the breakfast teabag of your choice, then remove the teabag. (Instead of infusing it yourself, such as Mason’s Yorkshire Tea Gin, JIN JIJI Darjeeling Dry Gin, or Jindea Sing le Estate Tea Gin ) Combine with the red vermouth and orange liqueur to make a fruit cup mix. g inger ale or lemonade Garnish with lemon and lime Tea is always a great accompaniment to breakfast and its inclusion here g ives the drink both a pleasant dryness and a delig htfully refreshing quality

G U L A R O C K E T

Gin Manger Breakfast Foods 4 4 GIN ISSUE 20 Gin, gin, is a marvellous thing; other than the Breakfast is not only a great way to start your day, but a great way to start this new series of articles. There is a huge variety in breakfast foods from the meagre to the hearty, the hot to the cold, the meat laden to the vegetarian and for each appetite, there is a g in drink to accompany it Let’s explore some pairings.

M E

Shake all the ingredients vigorously with ice PORRIDGE / OATMEAL This is a favourite choice of the winter months and a hearty breakfast that will keep you going for hours and hours, so a companion drink would need to have some “get up and go”, too

Shake all the ingredients with ice and strain into a cocktail g lass Alternatively, for a cooler, longer drink with a little ice melt, with a small sprig of basil.

Bee’s Knees 60 ml dry gin 20 ml fresh lemon juice 15 ml honey syrup

Shake vigorously with ice and strain into a cocktail g lass breakfast, not least because you can put little things (berries, chocolate chips) in the holes For a more elaborate breakfast like this, a more sophisticated drink is needed

The all American breakfast W hether you call them pancakes, American pancakes, These are available frozen or pre prepared, but nothing beats freshly made accompaniment; the honey matches the syrup and the lemon juice cuts throug h the sweetness of the pancakes and syrup Simple, but delicious.

This is arguably more brunch than breakfast, but it’s still dead tasty: poached eggs with rich, creamy Hollandaise, ham, and toasted succulent with a brig ht tartness that helps to cut throug h the richness of this dish The drink, orig inally known as the Gin Pesto, Hamburg, Germany 60 ml dry gin 20 ml fresh lemon juice 10 ml sugar syrup 12 fresh basil leaves

BREAKFAST IN AMERICA

Gin Manger Breakfast Foods ISSUE 20 GIN 45

25 ml aged gin 10 ml honey syrup (50:50 mix of water and set honey) 35 ml cold black coffee (or cold brew coffee)

Add all the ingredients to a tall, ice The coffee has a clean bite to it, whilst the woody g in adds a spiced complexity; the complexity In terms of your choice of aged g in, this works especially well with more heavily aged g ins such as those from No EGGS BENEDICT

Breakf ast Bramble 60 ml dry gin 30 ml crème de mûre (accept no substitutes!) 20 ml fresh lemon juice 2 tsp stone fruit (e.g. plum, apricot) jam 1 tbsp plain Greek yoghurt

Shake with ice and strain into a small Adding yog hurt to a drink may seem unusual, but it works well with the berry notes and adds a lig ht fattiness that cuts throug h the sourness of the other ingredients

When visiting Oldambt in the northernmost Dutch province of Groningen, you’d never suspect that the Netherlands is one of the most densely populated countries in the world This region was once referred to as Europe’s granary and its vast landscape is still home to countless farmers, but cattle are now ripe with all sorts of grains Most of the cereal grown today is feed wheat, unsuitable for human consumption but destined for animals This development goes against the core beliefs of farmers such as Gert Noordhoff, which is why he is one of the initiators of De Graanrepubliek: a cooperation between farmers and the companies that buy and process their grains Among those companies is Hoog houdt, a Dutch genever distiller with strong ties to Groningen. Together, they are embarking on an ambitious agricultural adventure unique in the world of genever This collaboration

BY THIJS KLAVERSTIJN

46 GIN ISSUE 20 Production De Graanrepubliek

How Dutch farmers and a genever distiller are championing sustainable

farming and reviving the craft of maltwine distilling and the companies involved Sustainable farming sits at the heart of the philosophy of De Graanrepubliek, which and also includes a bakery, brewery and pasta maker The clay rich soil of Oldambt and the surrounding area is ideal for many crops, not just grain. This hig hly fertile place is a by product of the nearby Dollart, an estuary slowly created over many centuries, been reclaimed “Cattle feed should not be a young generation of farmers looking to innovate without losing track of tradition “At one point my grandfather cultivated 14 different crops, but nowadays you mostly just see winter wheat and maybe some beets Introducing more diversity will create a new future for cereal crops ”

ISSUE 20 GIN 47

This future is sorely needed Grain farming became all about yield after the Second World War, and understandably so. In by a devastating famine that shaped the Famously, the creed of Sicco Mansholt, the war, became: “Hunger never again!” This by the development of new grain varieties, chemicals, and fertiliser Yield became synonymous with quality The resulting monoculture was extremely taxing to the soil, like asking a long distance runner to compete in a marathon day after day without any time for a breather Eventually the runner will tire and collapse, as will soil that is used continuously for just one crop De Graanrepubliek wants to break with this hunt for yield, instead focusing on strip cropping This method involves cultivating alternated in a crop rotation system. Noordhoff says, “ You need to grow less grain in order to grow better grain For example, previously used for another grain variety and cabbage strips Quality is not just about the grain variety, but also about the crops that cultivating grains ” Intrigued by the possibilities of a farming practice that focuses on quality, family run Hoog houdt decided to join the cooperation Like many big genever brands, the company for its genever from elsewhere However, some time ago, the family committed all their efforts to bring ing genever back to its former g lory, a decision that included letting period of 10 years In recent years, resources have been spent on revamping the brand, yet to come. It will soon be needing a steady supply of grain, and lots of it barley, rye, wheat, and spelt all to be used in its new These pages, from left:

Production De Graanrepubliek

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distillery where it will be making maltwine once again. Collaborating with farmers just made sense, to g ive the company complete control over its genevers W hen Hoog houdt joined De Graanrepubliek, it also broug ht a new perspective to the table W hat had orig inally started out as an bring back more diversity to crops and tend to a healthier soil now also became an initial concern That means searching for and researching suitable grain varieties Heritage varieties that were commonplace half a century and longer ago are being revived. Some will sound familiar to Scotch whisky drinkers, such as Golden Promise, Maris Otter and Bere barley

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Others are more obscure but were once used by many local farmers, long before

50 GIN ISSUE 20

breeding new grain varieties became all about yield Examples are Wilhelmina wheat and Mansholt barley, both of which were early 20th century. Using resources from the seed vault of Wageningen University, varieties like these are slowly cultivated enoug h for farmers to harvest and for Hoog houdt to distil. Noordhoff says, “As farmers, we never really thoug ht about how but now it is at the forefront of everything and grain variety ” in Oldambt near the Dutch border with Germany, where De Graanrepubliek is in the process of converting an old railway industrial building with an inviting ambience. The roundhouse orig inally had the capacity to store and service up to 12 as such for almost 90 years In a foretelling grain storage in the 1980s and 1990s. Now, grain will again become the common thread for all activity inside the building, which also house the other companies involved destination where visitors can get insig ht into how local, sustainably farmed grain is processed by the bakery, brewery, pasta maker and genever distillery A restaurant will serve food and drinks centring around the ingredients made on site, which will also be available from a shop. About a quarter of the former railway building is reserved for Hoog houdt It plans to install two Mueller pot stills: one with a capacity of 500 litres, the other sized at 2,000 litres A smaller mobile still will be employed for botanicals. Fermentation and storage tanks are going to be situated a modest warehouse, meeting room and genevers from the new distillery are expected sometime next year These unaged made from Hoog houdt currently refers to Further down the road, Hoog houdt will start releasing aged genever from the new distillery as well, in addition to its current barrel aged genevers “ The new distillery will be a playground for our distillers,” explains L aurens Speek, brand activation manager at fermentation length, yeast, botanicals, and of course with grain varieties also ” to distilling, earlier this year the company released two sing le cask genevers from the last stock of its own maltwine Rig ht before 1998, third generation family member Hero maltwine from 100 per cent malted barley butts from his supplier in Spain, where they system for 60 to 80 years The resulting sing le cask releases are more akin to whisky than g in More importantly, they usher in a new era not just for Hoog houdt, but possibly for the Dutch genever industry. Will other well known Dutch genever brands revive the craft of maltwine distilling as well? Only the future will tell

These pages, from left:

BELGIUM GERMANY Assen Enschede Zwolle Eindhoven Rotterdam The Hague AMSTERDAM NETHERLANDS NORTH SEA Oldambt Production De Graanrepubliek

T his Tr a velling L i f e : C h a r l i e H e n d o n BY JOE BATES

52 GIN ISSUE 20

Sun seeking and the importance of travel snacks with Burleighs Gin’s head distiller

Charlie Hendon, Burleighs Gin’s heavy metal loving head distiller, enjoys nothing more than packing up her car and heading down to Cornwall for a summer music festival A self confessed sun lover, Charlie’s idea of heaven is to soak up the rays on a Greek island. W hat have been some of the most memorable and interesting countries and places that your work has taken you? Burleig hs is a small craft distillery in the heart of Leicestershire, so we do several events within the county such as Burleig hs Picnic in the Gardens and the Great Burleig hs Express, but being head distiller, I do have to spend the majority of my time at the distillery W hilst many of our g ins have Leicestershire roots, our pink edition takes inspiration from Japan, as it uses Japanese cherry blossom I did have an opportunity to spend a week in Switzerland, working on There were plans to travel the country and g ive a presentation on British craft distilling Unfortunately, the project was cancelled due to Covid 19, but it’s something I ’d love to get involved in now more travelling is permitted W hat spirits, other than gin, do you like If I ’m heading to duty free, I usually head straig ht for the perfume department! But when I do purchase a spirit, it’ll be because it’s caug ht my eye due to its packag ing or unusual ingredient or taste it needs to be something I ’ve not tried before. Do you spend a lot of time on the road? If so, what travel tips do you want to pass on to our readers? Travel I do travel a lot by car in this country. My once a year, which is a six hour trip, so a good, upbeat playlist is key We are really into music, particularly classic and new rock and metal, we are regular visitors to Download Festival and other events, so our car journeys are usually loud! Food and drink are also essential on long trips, so I ’d suggest stocking up on snacks and on the go drinks It would be someone I admire in the music industry. Perhaps Stevie Nicks, Dave Grohl, Pink or Ozzy Osborne listening to their amazing stories would pass the time! If you had 24 hours to spare, what city in the world would you most like to explore? enjoy things at a much slower pace Althoug h I love the sunshine, it’s on my bucket list to visit Iceland to see the Northern Lig hts; I ’d love to stay in a g lass ig loo pod overnig ht to stargaze and hopefully catch the lig hts book would you recommend we read to while away the time? It has to be The Storyteller by Dave Grohl It’s a must for Foo Fig hters fans Now we are back travelling again, where what’s your f avourite way of enjoying it? We export to many different countries around the world, including Spain, Thailand

One of my favourite British g ins is Tarquin’s My best friend, sister and I recently visited its distillery, and it was so interesting to see how it runs and compare similarities and differences to the set up at Burleig hs Tell us about a funny, strange or unusual I spent a few months in Australia in my early 20s, travelling up the Gold Coast The experience was amazing but equally scary it’s a big change when you don’t have a plan and make decisions spontaneously We found little odd jobs to get a bit more money, staying in some very “interesting” hostels, getting used to the wildlife and weather One heat, which is an experience! At one point, we found a dog running loose, so my friend whipped off her belt to use as a lead and we was reunited with its owner, but we didn’t something like normal, what destination will be top of your list to return to? I am a sun seeker, so anywhere with guaranteed sunshine and hot weather is secluded beaches to relax on by day, and eating fresh seafood and drinking something delicious in a Greek tavern by nig ht Ideal! Travel Edinburgh Gin unveils new Edinburgh Gin has announced the launch of a Strawberry & Pink Peppercorn gin exclusively with Dufry in its World Duty Free UK stores and at European airports where the travel retailer operates shops Priced at £29 99 for a 1 litre bottle, this full strength 40% ABV gin delivers balanced with delicately sweet and spicy pink peppercorn notes The suggested G&T serve for this new fresh strawberry and mint Sipsmith has released two new W imbledon tennis championships Sipsmith Lime & Lemongrass and Sipsmith Grapefruit & Rosemary Priced at around £29 each, both gins are available at selected airports worldwide, including London Heathrow, Gatwick, Dubai, Sydney and Singapore airports Described by Sipsmith as a “smooth citrus twist on a classic London Dry”, Sipsmith Lime & Lemongrass boasts a fresh citrus nose, with lots of lime and juniper notes on the palate along with hints of lemongrass Working well in a Gin Paloma cocktail or on the rocks, Sipsmith Grapefruit & Rosemary offers on the nose and juniper, rosemary, grapefruit and pepper on the palate

order to Bermuda. My favourite way to enjoy Burleig hs Gin is with plenty of ice, a slice of orange or grapefruit, and Indian tonic water f avourite gins and gin cocktails?

These pages, from left: Charlie Hendon, Burleighs Gin head distiller; Burleighs Raspberry Edition Gin; Edinburgh Gin Strawberry & Pink Peppercor n; Sipsmith Lime & Lemongrass Gin

ISSUE 20 GIN 53

Cocktails Chartreuse 5 4 GIN ISSUE 20

COLOU R M E C H A RTR E U S E

You may have heard of this vibrant French liqueur, but now we ’ re going to teach you how to use it

Cocktails Chartreuse ISSUE 20 GIN 55

GREEN CHARTREUSE

Add the ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously with ice, before straining into a cocktail g lass cocktail which was based on The L ast Word: “ The Word”. Its version omitted the lime bottle), but drinkers could add their own lime juice to transform it into a “L ast” Word

BY DAVID T SMITH Gin is, with the possible exception of vodka, the most universal of spirits when it comes to mixing and has been warmly embraced by the creators of cocktails for nearly two centuries Many of these cocktails consist of everyday ingredients, but others delicious as they are might contain more esoteric ingredients that require a special purchase Not only is this a tad frustrating just to make one or two drinks, but it can result in obscure bottles collecting dust on the shelf Chartreuse is an example of such an ingredient, but hopefully this article will help the reader to embrace the wider potential of the spirit and dust off some of those bottles. Chartreuse is a French herbal liqueur that is made by distilling botanicals The orig ins of its recipe go back to 1605 and to this day the liqueur is made by Carthusian monks

The Last Word This is probably now the most famous Green Chartreuse cocktail It orig inated at the bar appeared on the menu in 1916 Equal parts (25 ml each): dry gin, Green Chartreuse, Maraschino liqueur, fresh lime juice

Other variations on The L ast Word are plentiful: you can swap out the Maraschino for Cointreau or another orange liqueur to create The Written Word, and The Spoken Word uses rye whiskey instead of g in

There are three main types of Chartreuse that are more widely available and accessible today: Green Chartreuse, Yellow Chartreuse, and Élixir Végétal In addition to these, there are a number of limited editions available, as well as a hig h end VEP range for both the yellow and green varieties, which has undertaken extra prolonged ageing The latter are a sort of “distillers cut”, with only the best distillates going throug h to be aged for the extra time Both retail for upwards of £100 and that’s when you can even get hold of it

Let’s start with the most widely known variety: Green Chartreuse, which is bottled at 55% ABV It is potent with a herbal g low It makes a pleasant digestif and is a delicious shot served ice cold from the freezer, but can also be enjoyed in a range of cocktails

The 1930 Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock has a less sweet version: ¾* dry gin, ¼ Yellow Chartreuse Shake

Equal parts: gin (Johnson calls for Plymouth), Italian vermouth (aka red vermouth), Chartreuse (green)

* Modern bartenders can use measurements of 20 ml and 40 ml respectively

This cocktail is said to have been named for the Alaska (Klondike) Gold Rush in the late striking golden hue A variation, Nome, which replaces half of the Yellow Chartreuse location in the Alaska Gold Rush

YELLOW CHARTREUSE

Bijou French for “jewel”, the Bijou was possibly named for its gem hued ingredients: g in (diamond), Chartreuse (emerald), and red vermouth (ruby) But perhaps that’s looking a little too far into it!

There have been a variety of recipes for the Bijou over the years, some of which omit Chartreuse completely The version noted below comes from the 1900 version of Harry Johnson’s Bartenders’ Manual.

Opening pages: Getting to know Chartreuse These pages, from left: Mixing cocktails with Yellow Chartreuse; The powerful Chartreuse Élixir

Alaska There are two main variations on this page 17 of his 1914 book, Drinks: 1 dash of orange bitters, 1/3 jigger* Yellow Chartreuse, 2/3 jigger (Old) Tom gin Shake

Cocktails Chartreuse 56 GIN ISSUE 20

Introduced around 1840, this is a sweeter and less alcoholic version than the Green, made with a slig htly different formulation that includes saffron and honey

Depending on how old your bottle is, it will be either 40% (pre 2019) or 43% ABV Seen as a more approachable version of Chartreuse, it is slig htly more menthol in character Here are some cocktails that use it.

Equal parts (25 ml): dry gin, Green Chartreuse, pineapple juice, fresh lime juice Shake the ingredients and pour into a tall, sparkling/soda water For a sweeter version, top up with sparkling lemonade and, for pure decadence, use sparkling wine

A tropical thirst quencher with a touch of sourness that embraces the winning combination of Chartreuse and pineapple

Johnson suggested adding the ingredients with crushed ice, before stirring and serving in the same g lass Garnish with both an olive and a cherry For an easier alternative, simply stir or shake the ingredients, strain into a cocktail g lass, and garnish with a cherry and a lemon twist Some authors prefer a drink that is cocktail is a brilliant way to appreciate both the liqueur and your choice of g in; the g in’s difference to the drink Go Swizzle

Cocktails Chartreuse ISSUE 20 GIN 57

Other drinks Finally, Chartreuse can be used as a also adds complexity For example, in a Gin Old Fashioned, Green Chartreuse adds a that complements the juniper well In a similar way, Élixir Végétal can be used as a substitute for cocktail bitters Meanwhile, a Tom Collins made with Green Chartreuse instead of sugar syrup is more tart than normal, but the gentian adds a lemon notes Hopefully this article has helped to illustrate to you the potential of the marriage of g in and Chartreuse, and has g iven you some inspiration to make your friends green with envy!

Comparing these two variations, I was expecting to prefer the drier Savoy version, but in reality the added botanical complexity in the Straub version provided by the Old Tom g in (I used Hayman’s) really adds something to the drink, as does the orange bitters. The Savoy version is more reminiscent of a standard Martini, al beit slig htly honeyed ÉLIXIR VÉGÉTAL DE LA GRAND CHARTREUSE (ÉLIXIR) This variety is bottled at a hefty 69% ABV and is not designed to be drunk on its own Of all the Chartreuses, it is probably the closest to the orig inal medicinal tincture, which was perfected in 1764; according to Chartreuse, this recipe has remained unchanged for more than 300 years One of the suggested serves for the Élixir Végétal is to sprinkle it on a sugar cube and then munch away and very tasty it is, too! but for my money, I ’d rather have an Élixir Martini 50ml dry gin (ideally straight from the freezer) Add a few drops of Chartreuse Élixir to a chilled cocktail g lass, pour in the ice cold g in, and enjoy The drink is an enchanting shade of pale green, just perceptible, but delig htful It is a small but powerful Martini with a complex, dry bitterness and the tiniest touch of EVERYDAY CHARTREUSE

Gin and tonic A splash of Green Chartreuse in a g in and tonic is a lovely way to complement other tonic such as Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic or Three Cents Aegean Tonic The liqueur adds a touch of sweetness, but also a slig htly grassy spiciness, similar to that of meadowsweet or bison grass Yellow Chartreuse is delig htful when combined with bitter lemon or lemon tonic: the extra tartness from the lemon helps to balance out the honeyed nature of the liqueur Negroni Both Green and Yellow Chartreuse can be an extremely welcome addition to any Negroni, althoug h the best result comes from mixing them in a W hite Negroni: 25 ml g in, 25 ml dry vermouth, 15 ml Suze and 10 ml of either Yellow or Green Chartreuse

* This equates to 45 ml dry gin, 15 ml Yellow Chartreuse

ABV: 37 5% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Nose: Lovely jammy raspberry notes, with hints of sweet vanilla cake batter and lavender

The Craft of Gin, Forgotten Spirits and Long Lost Liqueurs and Gin Tonica

David Nose: Clotted cream and vanilla with the added complexity of baking spice cassia and nutmeg and a light, berry fruit character Palate: A clean, relatively straight forward classic gin on the palate, which is surprising given its colour! There are also some restrained notes of summer berries and a hint of crystallised violets Finish: An earthy sweetness, brightened by notes of cherry blossom and hibiscus Comments: A relatively classic gin with a fruity character well suited to a gin and tonic or a Tom Collins 8.0

Tastings 58 GIN ISSUE 20 Taster biographies

Palate: The sweetness of the raspberries (hints of raspberry jam and fresh fruit dusted with icing sugar) is nicely balanced with a gin botanical base It’s clean and crisp, not at all syrupy Finish: It dries as it fades, with lingering leafy notes of raspberry and a hint of juniper Comments: A lovely example of how grown up would help make a lovely rosé spritz Bethany 8.8

Bethany W hymark

The Raspberr y Gin Edi tion BURLEIGHS GIN ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Contemporary Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Sweet orange notes, like orange jelly, with Palate: Clean texture More orange notes combine with sweet grain on the palate, like an orange sponge cake A hint of cooked orange too, like marmalade There’s a dusky hint of angelica and a scattering of juniper Finish: It fades cleanly with a little greener juniper note A touch of dried herbs at the very end Comments: A clean and decently made gin that seems like it would make a nice Negroni 8.2 David Nose: Complex, but classic with aromas of juniper, angelica, coriander, and a dash of citrus Palate: A cleanly distilled gin with a refreshing crispness and an elegant mouthfeel Juicy, succulent notes of citrus help to round the spirit out nicely Finish: hint of earthy sweetness Comments: A lovely all rounder that wouldn’t disappoint even the most ardent gin traditionalist8.2 Catford Gin Catford Gin CATFORD GIN ABV: 42 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Aged Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Vanilla crème brûlée with stem ginger A hint of banana bread and lemon shortbread, with pleasant spicy herbal notes Palate: Surprisingly soft Rich, toasty brioche, vanilla and ginger cream, and soft toffee chunks There’s some nice orange citrus, but overall the gin character is a bit subdued Finish: Pleasant oaky dryness with pale caramel, sweet orange and a hint of powdered ginger Comments: If you don’t mind the make a cracking Negroni 8.2 David Nose: A bold nose of wood and spice, in particular vanilla and cinnamon, with ripples of stone fruit and strawberry Palate: Succulent, jammy fruit to start: plum with a dash of anise, followed by dry, woody notes and a touch of burnt sugar and toffee Finish: Dry vanilla and crème brulée, highlighted by tannins and the creaminess of café au lait Comments: Whilst the botanical cinnamon comes through, I feel that by the end the barrel dominates; nonetheless, it would make a tasty Old Fashioned 7.9

David T. Smith

Betty’s Gin Oak Aged HEART OF SUFFOLK DISTILLERY

After studying English literature at university, Bethany Gin Magazine com and Rum Magazine

Burleighs Gin

, TheDrinksReport

Comments: balanced, with would add a fruity twist to a number of classic gin drinks 8.1 David Nose: A sublime nose that really captures passion fruit, being wonderfully reminiscent of a passion fruit tart or coulis Palate: A silky sweetness up front, followed by the dry botanical character of juniper, angelica, and coriander Floral, fruity notes of passion fruit then develop Finish: the lingering tartness of the passion fruit

Comments: The fruit notes in this were a little over stewed, however I could see it mixing in a summery cocktail with plenty of crushed ice7.2 David Nose: Violet and orris on the nose, along with the slight sourness of berry sherbet Palate: Succulent strawberry and rhubarb on the palate, neatly balancing between sweetness and sourness Notes of baking spice and a lingering ginger warmth develop over time Finish: Final rhubarb notes continue onto the Comments: A fruity spirit with a reasonable level of complexity, although I’d like a little more gin character to shine through7.3 Jim and Tonic Roobee Rhubarb Gin JIM AND TONIC DISTILLERY

ABV: 37 5% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: The passionfruit is clear and bright, with notes of those freshly scraped, slippery seeds It reminds me of Solero ice creams, with a glass of peach cordial on the side Palate: Prominent, juicy passionfruit is tempered by more classic botanical notes that start to creep in from the back Peach slices and vanilla yoghurt

David Nose: Vibrant and oily with minerality and a salinity, and plenty of coriander seed Palate: More coriander on the palate is joined by biscuity malt notes and oily citrus, most notably lemon and orange Finish: Peppery menthol notes and a little heat

ABV: 43 4% Country: SCOTLAND Style: Contemporary Price per bottle: Availability: Worldwide Bethany Nose: Creamy and lemon citrus notes, like a lemon curd tart Herbal thyme and tarragon, a hint of pine, and a slightly saline note Palate: Oily juniper, which lends texture, and a continuing woody pine note Zesty lemon and hints of coriander, clove and nutmeg

Finish: with a refreshing lemon note that verges on lemon scented polish

Comments: A solid gin that ticks all of the boxes and has lovely alcohol integration 7.9

Bottle price guide: £11 20 (US $15 26) £ 21 4 0 (US $27 53) £ 41 6 0 (US $54 79) £ 61 9 0 (US $80 119) £ 91 plus (US $120 plus) ISSUE 20 GIN 59

Hendrick’s Neptunia Gin WILLIAM GRANT & SONS

Comments: This had a nice texture and a classic character that would hold up well in a Tom Collins 8.2 David Nose: A relatively modest nose, but clean, with aromas of juniper and a light woodiness Palate: A sparkle of juniper berries upfront is accompanied by earthy, rooty angelica and a lingering spiciness of coriander Finish: of black pepper

Comments: Nicely dry character The spice notes would stand up to a more aromatic tonic water

8.0

Comments: A lively gin that is perfectly suited to summer; serve with plenty of ice and your mixer of choice 8.9

Gordon’s Passionfrui t Distilled Gin DIAGEO

ABV: 44 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: London Dry Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Fairly classic aroma with juniper, citrus and that goes beyond woody, almost into peaty Palate: Bitter orange notes on the palate alongside more resinous juniper, clove spice, a and a little chopped chive Nicely oily Finish: The woody spice and juniper notes return

Finish: A nice drying sensation with prickles of juniper and a little lingering fruity sweetness

Comments: A peppery and citrus forward gin with a bold character that would stand up well to serving alongside tomato juice in a refreshing Red Snapper7.6

James Martin’s London Dr y Gin JAMES MARTIN S LONDON DRY ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK, EU Bethany Nose: Strawberry, peach and pineapple notes Hints of juniper and sweet cinnamon, and a slight sourness like lime pickle Palate: Notes of cooked summer fruits A little mango chutney with some earthy savoury spice Finish: It fades fairly quickly on a light strawberry and balsamic note

Comments: A rich and fruity gin that would marry well with bitter lemon or lemon tonic 8.2

ABV: 43 0% Country: SCOTLAND Style: London Dry Price per bottle: Availability: UK, EU Bethany Nose: Prominent aroma Parsley, a touch of juniper, sappy pine, and black pepper Cinnamon and clove reveal later Palate: maple cured bacon An aniseed touch of fennel seed and a little citrus Finish: It fades warmly on aniseed notes braised fennel this time with a hint of juniper Comments: Underneath its surprising warmth is a pleasant character that I feel would work nicely in a Red Snapper8.1 David Nose: Bright, resinous pine on the nose, accompanied by some waxy, buttery spice Palate: Wonderful intensity on the palate with a texture that really coats the tongue The gin is anise and fennel Finish: cinnamon and dark chocolate Comments: A particularly tasty gin with sublime complexity that would be totally tickety boo in a Martini8.9

Junimperium Barrel Finished Cherr y Gin JUNIMPERIUM ESTONIAN ARTISAN GIN

Mermaid Gin Zest Gin ISLE OF WIGHT DISTILLERY

Comments: A sophisticated fruit gin that would make a decadent Champagne cocktail 8.8 David Nose: Lots of nutty aromatics such as almond, followed by more nuanced notes of stone fruit Sweet with a touch of acidity Palate: Flavours of cherry cola combined with vanilla, plum, and nectarine Drier notes of marzipan and slightly bitter tannins follow Finish: The sweetness of apricot jam and amaretto move to drier notes with a hint of almond blossom

Jim and Tonic Ugandan Honey Gin JIM AND TONIC DISTILLERY

ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Grapefruit, zesty and fresh, with a tempering herbal note of rosemary and a little tropical freshness, like passion fruit Palate: Velvety texture The grapefruit notes get a little sweeter (I’m thinking of summer ice lollies), but it is still balanced by those herbal notes Piney juniper notes arrive here, too Finish: Piney and grapefruit notes linger on with a little tannic grip, kind like a peach infused tea Comments: A delightfully fresh and well balanced gin that would be lovely lengthened with soda water 8.7 David Nose: Lively and zesty with lots of grapefruit Palate: A gentle sweetness to start with notes of vanilla before the grapefruit starts to come through, all against a background of coriander and angelica Finish: A lingering, oily zestiness with a bit of heat and an acidic tingle of grapefruit Comments: A straight forward grapefruit gin that would mix pleasantly with soda water for a refreshing summer cooler7.5

Comments: A really interesting and citrussy serve 8.6 David Nose: peel; summery and fresh Palate: of honey and citrus blossom, followed by coriander and some resinous juniper and pine Finish: citrus and pepper Comments: would mix well in a Bee’s Knees 7.7

ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK EU Bethany Nose: Prominent nose with rich notes of spiced marmalade and orange milk chocolate There are hints of sweet fruit and juniper in there, too Palate: Lovely texture, with a slight menthol cooling effect Less prominent than the nose, with background notes of orange chocolate continuing and hints of juniper and tropical fruit Finish: Segments of pineapple, passion fruit an satsuma drizzled with milk chocolate

ORO ORO THE ORO DISTILLING CO

ABV: 40 0% Country: ESTONIA Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: Estonia Bethany Nose: Delicious sweet and sour cherry aromas and an indulgent almond marzipan note, along with juniper and cinnamon stick Palate: The sour cherry notes are more dominant, almost sloe like, with a rich dollop of almond frangipane and a sprinkling of sweet spice The texture is slightly viscous and juicy Finish: Hints of stone fruit with vinous tannins a tiny touch of nutty sweetness

60 GIN ISSUE 20 Tastings

ORO ORO V THE ORO DISTILLING CO

ABV: 40 5% Country: ENGLAND Style: London Dry Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Sweet juicy notes of nectarines and cherries alongside jammy blackcurrants, with hints of coriander seed and juniper Palate: Lovely viscous texture It’s jammy on the Finish: Medium in length, with piney juniper, a touch of violet, and a slight bitterness like quinine or wormwood

Comments: W ith a crisp Indian tonic water, this would make a delightful drink for a warm evening 8.7 David Nose: A solid classic gin with plenty of pine, coriander, and citrus on the nose, joined by a touch of spice Palate: The palate has a slightly oily character of coriander, which adds a peppery bite Zesty notes of orange then develop, along with a silky sweetness Finish: Comments: A gin that is class in style and would work well in a gin and tonic or a Martini 7.8

Comments: A fun gin that is very sippable, particularly in a 40:60 mix of gin and chilled water 7.9

ABV: 40 5% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Light straw colour Pungent notes of There are tart hints of gooseberry and green apple in there, too A little dried mango Palate: with hints of white grape and chamomile tea Finish: Slightly drying, with departing notes of Comments: This took me on an interesting journey, skirting the edges of liqueur territory 7.9 David Nose: Sweet, jammy notes on the nose of cut apples Palate: A rich sweetness up front with luxurious spice of vanilla and cinnamon followed by baked Finish: Turkish delight Comments: A sweet and fruity gin that is almost liqueur like; it would be excellent in an 8.1

ABV: 42 3% Country: FRANCE Style: Contemporary Price per bottle: Availability: UK, EU Bethany Nose: lavender Powdery lemon, dried chamomile, hints of rubber, and chewy pineapple foam sweets Palate: Medium intensity A touch of nail polish Slight bergamot/grapefruit citrus and a piney bitterness of cracked juniper berries Finish: little freshness like eucalyptus Comments: of this gin would stand up well in a spirit forward drink 7.8 David Nose: A perfumed and notably aromatic gin with lots of jasmine and geranium notes on the nose, along with the softness of orris Palate: notes of neroli (orange blossom), cedar, and sandalwood, all highlighted by notes of spice Finish: the palate Comments: gin that would be delicious in a Diamond Martini 8.1

Santa Ana Gin BLEEDING HEART SPIRITS

Penrhos Dr y Gin PENRHOS SPIRITS

ABV: 43 0% Country: SCOTLAND Style: London Dry Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Medium aroma Underneath juniper and coriander there are rich baking spices and just a touch of sweetness, perhaps liquorice Palate: Earthy sweetness of liquorice and cassia A herbal aniseed note mid palate, with touches of coriander, lemon zest and resinous juniper Finish: It fades with hints of juniper and sweet earthiness A little anise note right at the end Comments: A lovely marriage of robust spice and subtle sweetness that is asking for a serve with a herbal liqueur or vermouth perhaps a White Negroni 8.6 David Nose: An indulgent spiced nose with an absolute cornucopia of intriguing enticing aromas Palate: Buttermint on the palate, along with resinous pine followed by soft spice and sweet aniseed Overall, this is quite confectionery in nature with a dash of pastis Finish: The oily, spiced notes linger on the palate along with a delicate interplay between sweetness and bitterness

ISSUE 20 GIN 61 Bottle price guide: £11 20 (US $15 26) £ 21 4 0 (US $27 53) £ 41 6 0 (US $54 79) £ 61 9 0 (US $80 119) £ 91 plus (US $120 plus)

Penrhos PENRHOS SPIRITS

Three Wrens Gin Exquisi te Ci trus Edi tion THREE WRENS GIN

ABV: 42 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Prominent, zesty pink grapefruit A savoury biscuit note, like oatcakes Rose petals and a touch of strawberry Palate: More pink grapefruit comes through, followed by a delicate wave of juniper, sweet earthy angelica and liquorice like sweetness

Finish: Gentle citrus and piney coriander

ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: London Dry Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Green notes of cilantro, curly parsley and juniper Spicy aniseed hint, lemony coriander, and Palate: Slick, oily mouthfeel The green herb notes continue with a little sweet citrus, a touch Finish: Fairly short A faint bready note pops up juniper return Comments: I’d emphasise this gin’s crunchy, herbaceous character with a Mediterranean style tonic water 8.4 David Nose: Aromas of chocolate covered raisins, with gingerbread spice and a hint of anise Palate: The notes of cocoa and chocolate continue onto the palate, mixed with refreshing notes of citrus peel A well integrated and balanced gin Finish: Delightful notes of juniper pine on the Comments: neat, but, with its wonderful chocolate Gin Alexander 8.2 The Spirit of George Fortnum and Mason Edi tion

Fairly soft texture

Finish: Medium length and warming, with a little oily pink grapefruit clinging around the tongue Comments: with pleasant zestiness that would make a quaffable gin and tonic 8.2 David Nose: Initially quiet, but jammy notes of hibiscus gradually unfold Palate: A complex and changing palate that is fruity up front with black and red berry notes These are followed by a fair amount of earthy, other, classic gin botanicals

Comments: A well made, sippable gin that would be fantastic enjoyed on the rocks to let 9.1

Tarquin’s Pink Lemon, Grapefrui t & Peppercorn Gin SOUTHWESTERN DISTILLERY

THE BIG HILL DISTILLERY

Comments: A fruity gin, but one that doesn’t overplay its hand It has a neatly balanced sweetness that gives it great versatility for mixing 8.4

Terlingham Bacchus Dr y Gin TERLINGHAM VINEYARD

ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: buttery, like raw lemon cake batter There are Palate: Pink and ruby grapefruit alongside more of that lemon cake and some light juniper and Finish: Resinous juniper and a touch of geranium Comments: A delightfully rich gin that and would pair nicely with ginger ale 8.5 David Nose: citrus blossom and leaves, and a mix of kumquat and mandarin Palate: A notably elegant palate with a silky, sippable texture and delicious notes of Turkish delight and fruit jellies Zesty citrus, too, and with lots of lemon and lime Finish: A sparkle of citrus peel combined with notes of spice and earthy angelica Comments: A bright and lively gin with a balanced sweetness that works especially well in an Evans style G&T 9.0

ABV: 40 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Contemporary Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Quite gentle, with juniper, coriander and lemon alongside a slight maritime note that conjures images of sea herbs and sand dunes Palate: Cleanly distilled with a silky texture jammy bittersweetness, like lime marmalade, emerges alongside a gradually building warmth Finish: Juicy lime and crisp juniper see out the Comments: The fresh herbal and citrussy notes in this gin would play well in something like a Basil Smash 8.6 David Nose: Bold and aromatic with light citrus and Palate: Smooth in texture with a measured sweetness and notes of coriander and orange, combined with meadowsweet This has a good Finish: reminiscent of lemon verbena and lemongrass

62 GIN ISSUE 20 Tastings

Elder Bay Blush

W hitley Neill Pineapple Gin HALEWOOD ARTISANAL SPIRITS

THUNDERFLOWER LTD ABV: 43 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: Peachy foam sweets, very weak blackcurrant cordial and a dash of coriander A slight milky note of natural yoghurt Palate: Sweet notes of raspberry conserve the smooth, seedless kind on a raisin studded fruit scone with clotted cream, with pops of raspberry sherbet A touch of underripe plum Finish: Maraschino cherry and raspberry wine gums

ABV: 43 0% Country: IRELAND Style: Contemporary Price per bottle: Availability: EU Bethany Nose: Deeply earthy and spiced Cassia, juniper and liquorice notes, with a touch of coffee bean Palate: Lovely texture The spicier notes unfold on the palate with splashes of pine and aniseed, and a slight tannic bitterness like green tea Finish: Slightly drying, with a little more green tea and liquorice, and some super dark (100 per cent cocoa) chocolate Comments: A clean and deliciously in a drink with red vermouth 8.8 David Nose: Perfumed with a subtle sweetness of liquorice and violet, along with aromas of hay and coriander spice Palate: An oily texture to start, along with good initial power from the botanicals This gin is and a cakey jamminess Finish: Some of the oily linalool from coriander Comments: A bright gin with an attractive boldness that would make a grand gin and tonic 8.2 Xin Gin Xin Gin AHASCRAGH DISTILLERY

Finish: Juniper, pithy orange and a hint of aniseed, with a little warmth around the tongue Comments: There’s a lovely botanical intensity to this gin I’d serve with ice and just a splash of ginger ale 8.8 David Nose: A strong and spicy nose with aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon, and citrus, along with nutty ginger Palate: This gin is rich and complex: woody tannins and a moderated sweetness Finish: muted orange Comments: A mellow, sippable gin that works extremely well with red vermouth, either in a Negroni or a Sweet Martini8.6

ISSUE 20 GIN 63 Bottle price guide: £11 20 (US $15 26) £ 21 4 0 (US $27 53) £ 41 6 0 (US $54 79) £ 61 9 0 (US $80 119) £ 91 plus (US $120 plus)

W hitley Neill Peach Gin

HALEWOOD ARTISANAL SPIRITS

Comments: Adding a dash of this to a Floradora, could have good results 7.8 David Nose: Succulent, juicy peach notes: jammy with a touch of stewed fruit, and aromas of apricot and nectarine Palate: Slightly sweet notes of fruit syrup up front, reminiscent of tinned peaches, combined with creamy vanilla More tropical notes of pineapple and mango then develop Finish: Lingering notes of crystallised sugar and Comments: A fruity gin with a dash of sweetness, although I’d ideally like more gin character 7.6

ABV: 43 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: touch of syrup from tinned pineapple rings There’s a hint of leafy savouriness and some subtle piney and spice notes, too Palate: gently sweet, married with a light backbone of Finish: tropical notes playing out Comments: with a nicely balanced sweetness It could make a nice twist on a Daiquiri 8.0 David Nose: Candied pineapple aromas that remind me of pineapple chunks (the sweets), as well as some of the acidity of tinned pineapple Palate: Sweet to start, with indulgent notes of clotted cream and then the fruitiness of pineapple juicy There is a sweetness to it throughout, but it’s reasonably well balanced Finish: come through more, notably an earthy dryness Comments: A sweet, fruity gin that variation of a Pina Colada) 7.4

ABV: 42 0% Country: ENGLAND Style: Flavoured Price per bottle: Availability: UK Bethany Nose: High cocoa milk chocolate and fresh orange juice, with a spiced warmth of ginger and clove There’s an earthiness to it, like coffee grounds, contrasted with fresh Chantilly cream Palate: play with continuing earthy spice notes

D I G I T A L E D I T I O N Download the UK’s only magazine dedicated to gin anywhere anytime! Now 6 is sue s a year Only £19.99

JAN, NOTTINGHAM Hey Jan! I guess you mean a Sgroppino (I had to look the spelling up!): an Italian cocktail from Venice It roug hly translates to ‘liberator of the stomach’ (thanks to Vanessa of ilgin it) and was orig inally designed as a palate cleanser to be enjoyed between courses of a meal The drink consists of vodka, lemon sorbet, and Prosecco There is some discussion as to whether the vodka and lemon sorbet should be blended together, or whether the drink can be built in a cocktail g lass or Champagne coupe To save time (and washing up!), let’s go with the non blender method for our g in variation Gin Sgroppino: Into a Champagne coupe or cocktail/ Martini g lass, add the following in this order: 20 25 ml g in, 1 tbsp sorbet, and top up with Prosecco (about 50 60 ml) Serve with a small stirrer or spoon. The g in in this variation adds complexity, but also goes well with the sorbet and sparkling wine like; I ’m a big fan of blood orange For an extra special treat, try substituting the g in with sloe g in: the sweet jamminess is a delig htful contrast to the dryness of the traditional lemon sorbet and the wine W hat’s the best way to make crushed ice and what drinks can I use it in?

Can I use more than one type of gin in a drink?

CHARLOTTE, NEWPORT

The consensus seems to be that mixing g ins can also be a good way to temper the more intense characters of some products and help to add balance whilst still keeping some of that character If you have a g in that mig ht not be your cup of tea (that can happen from time favourite can have unexpected but delig htful results

In terms of g in cocktails, the most famous one that uses crushed ice is the Bramble a mix of g in, lemon juice, sugar syrup, and crème de mûre but one of my personal favourites is the Gin Julep: a riff on the whisky drink synonymous with the Kentucky Derby Take a tumbler (or ideally a small metal julep cup) and rub a dozen or so fresh mint leaves around the inside, before with crushed ice, really packing it in Add a splash of sugar syrup (to taste, but around 10ml) and then add 50 60ml of g in Pack in some more crushed ice and garnish with a straw and sprig of mint

Our gin expert, David T. Smith, is on hand to answer all your juniper related questions. Tweet us @ginmagazineuk or email editor@gin mag.com for a chance to feature W hat is a strowpedo? I had one at a bar recently it’s a delicious drink with sorbet and Champagne in it and maybe gin? If not, is there a gin version?

Ask the Exper t

Q& A 66 GIN ISSUE 20

JAMIE, HAVERFORDWEST

A perfectly timed question as I write this during a heatwave. At home, I use a hand cranked ice crusher from Drinkstuff, which is a little under £15 It makes two sizes of ice shards, depending on which way you turn the handle The ice crusher is a low tech solution, but if you have a blender, check to see if it has an ice crushing function as you could also use that The ultimate low tech solution is to wrap some ice cubes in a tea towel or muslin bag and hit them with a clean meat tenderiser, wooden mallet, or rolling pin

You can use any g in for a Gin Julep, but I think that aged g ins work particularly well, as do some fruity g ins, althoug h it’s best to then omit the sugar syrup so that your Julep isn’t overly sweet

The short answer is yes and you’re rather on trend with your thinking It seems to have kicked off in the US, so I had a word with our man in Colorado, A aron Knoll of ‘ The Gin Is In’: “Personally, I like mixed Martinis: 2 parts Plymouth, 1 part something bold and also do the aged and classic Negroni a lot; it’s often a way that I get some utility from aged g ins that are heavy on vanillin or slig htly tannic ”

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Articles inside

THIS TRAVELLING LIFE

DE GRAANREPUBLIEK

GIN MANGER

THAT BOUTIQUE-Y GIN COMPANY

NEWS

DAVID T. SMITH

JAMIE BAXTER

WONDERBIRD SPIRITS

SUSTAINABLE BARS

CAROLINE ASHFORD

US GIN ASSOCIATION