William Barthman 2021

WILLIAM BARTHMAN THE MAGAZINE

REACHING THE TOP

When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a successful mission

GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch

MAN OF THE HOUR Tudor Watch expert Ross Povey on the new Black Bay Chronograph

BIG BANG UNICO 18K King Gold case set with diamonds.

In-house UNICO chronograph movement.

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG MECA-10 18K King Gold case. In-house manual movement, with a 10-day power reserve.

THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER

CONTENTS

VOL. 6, NO. 1

FEATURES

WILLIAM BARTHMAN THE MAGAZINE

ON OUR COVER

14

GAME CHANGERS

We explore the evolution of the “tool watch,” a category where Rolex is the undisputed star.

Jewelry shown is from our Pasquale Bruni Collection REACHING THE TOP

When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a succesful mission

GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch

MAN OF THE HOUR Ross Povey on the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono

18

REACHING THE TOP

COLUMNS

When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's | extremes.

28

TIME FOR STYLE

Why just own one. Tips on building a watch wardrobe.

22

40

MAN OF

THE HOUR

26

STYLEWATCH

Check out what’s new from Roberto Coin.

We interview Ross Povey – one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts on Tudor watches .

THE NEW IWC

BIG PILOTS The new Big Pilot's Watch

50

boldly reimagines this classic design for the future.

WATCH SPEAK

Uncomplicating the world of fine timepiece complications.

44

DESIGNER Tudor Black Bay Chronopraph SPOTLIGHT dinh van is the first brand to use minimalism in jewelry design. View the sparkling new creations from the Le Cube Diamont and Minottes Collections,

12 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

54

SHOULD MY WATCH BE INSURED?

If you just bought a new timepiece or a vintage one at auction, here are some important things to consider.

THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER

My son and I would like to extend to all of you a

we endured just venturing out for simple errands.

heartfelt wish for a happy and healthy year. As we

At William Barthman, we continue to do our

navigate our way through all of the changes that

best to make your experience with us a pleasura-

this pandemic has created in our lives, my obser-

ble one, whether it’s in the store, on the phone,

vation is that on the positive side, there is a

online, or on social media. Our sales and service

greater appreciation of the important, as well as

departments undergo continuous training in order

the simple, things in life. Time spent with family

to give you an efficient and informative response

and friends is so much more meaningful. Not

regarding any potential purchase or service ques-

taking for granted the kindness from friends,

tions that you may have. We look forward to the

coworkers, or just people that we encounter each

future and the opportunity to serve you.

day is a result of the loneliness and tension caused by all of the quarantines and fears that

13 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Thank You. Jerry Natkin & Steven Natkin.

GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the tool watch

W

atches can do so much more than tell time. They help climbers get to the top of the world’s highest peaks, and divers to the oceans’ deepest depths. These

marvels of engineering are known as "tool" watches, and Rolex is the category’s undisputed star.

Like all tools, these devices enable humans to accomplish goals,

and in Rolex’s case those have often been record-breaking and historymaking. To aid in the success of these missions, tool watches require the highest levels of technology, engineering, science and watchmaking, which the team at Rolex unequivocally possesses.

Over the years, Rolex has been in the enviable position of being able to use the many explorations it has supplied watches for as laboratories to test those very same timepieces. Upon completion of each mission, Rolex was able to examine and probe the watch’s performance and improve and adapt it accordingly. The original tool watches became templates to develop, refine and update, creating the watches that are available today for anyone to put on their wrist and enjoy, even people whose biggest adventure may be entering the boardroom or signing into a Zoom chat.

The 1950s were the golden age when three of Rolex’s most famous tool watches were born. That first full decade after World War II was a time of unparalleled optimism, and out of that spirit came an attendant desire for expansion and the exploration that precedes it. Rolex was there with watches that enabled ground-breaking adventures on land, air and sea.

The Rolex GMT Master was created in 1955 in response to changes in air travel. Long-haul flights were becoming more and more common, and the airlines needed a watch for its pilots that would clock the time back home as well as the time while traveling across oceans and foreign lands. The GMT Master was one of the few watches that could display the time in any two zones around the world, keeping both pilots 14 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

1953 THE SUBMARINER Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). Its rotatable bezel allowed divers to read their immersion time.

1953 THE EXPLORER Inspired by knowledge gained from this fascinating chapter of human adventure, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer, launched in 1953 to celebrate the victorious ascent of Everest, immediately acquired iconic status.

1955 THE GMT-MASTER The GMT-Master was developed to meet the specific needs of airline pilots. It became the official watch of several airlines, among them the famous Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am. Its most distinguishing visual feature was the two-tone bezel which marked daytime from nighttime hours.

1971 THE EXPLORER II Rolex presented the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, dedicated to polar explorers, speleologists, and all those pushing the boundaries of exploration. The watch featured a distinctive 24-hour hand, an invaluable aid around the poles and beneath ground when you can't tell night from day.

15 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

In 1953 Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of Mount Everest

by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. and their globe-trotting passengers up to the minute, no matter

spend in decompres-

where they were.

sion stops. The Sub-

An extra hour hand was added to the innovation that made this

mariner was so

multizone capability possible: a rotating two-tone bezel. The watch

ground-breaking and

expert and historian Gregory Gardinetti explained the advantage. “If

respected that it soon

you don't touch the rotating bezel, the GMT hand will simply indicate

cemented Rolex’s

the local time on a 24-hour scale. And if you move the bezel, you can

position as the watch

choose the time zone you want. This is very useful information for pi-

brand for water explo-

lots flying through different time zones." Rolex’s goal for the airlines

ration. Once again, Rolex

was accomplished and the GMT became the official watch for Pan

continued to refine the watch, and the latest version of the Subma-

American Airways. Because Rolex continually improves on its

riner can descend to a depth of 300 meters, or 1,000 feet.

Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on Mount Everest.

watches, the GMT-Master available today is able to keep track of the time in three different time zones.

Rolex has a history of supplying Oyster watches for expeditions climbing the various peaks of the Himalaya Mountains. In 1953

Another iconic tool watch to come out of the 1950s is the

Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of

Submariner. Introduced in 1953, the Submariner was the first dive

Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Their

watch waterproof to 100 meters (about 330 feet). It also sported the

expedition was the first to reach the 8,848-meter (29,028-foot)

all-important rotating bezel, which enabled the watch to keep track of

mountain’s summit. The Explorer inspired by their achievement was

immersion times and to calculate the varying amounts of time to

constructed of rugged stainless steel and featured a clear, very

This year Rolex introduced an all new Explorer .

16 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

legible dial as well as a waterproof case that could withstand not just

revised the Explorer II. The version introduced in 2011 grew a bit in

the moisture from melting snow and ice but also extremes in tem-

size, from 39mm to 42mm and enlarged its luminescent hour

perature as well. Despite the absence of any bells and whistles (like

markers and 24-hour signature orange arrow-tipped hands.

rotating bezels), the result of Rolex’s tool-making skill was just what

Which brings us to today. To celebrate its 50th birthday in 2021,

the adventure-minded needed: “a very strong and accurate watch,”

Rolex has revamped the Explorer II yet again. It now features a new

Gardinetti said.

luminescing process that increases the brightness of the watch’s

Fast-forward nearly two decades, to 1971, when Rolex introduced

hands for better readability. It also incorporates the multi-patent-

the Explorer II. Rather than being designed to aid mountain climbers,

winning caliber 3285, which provides better precision, shock resist-

the new watch was created with other types of expeditions in mind

ance and power reserve.

— those exploring regions like caves or polar caps, where light is

The Explorer and the Explorer II have always been produced in

scarce or irregular. To meet the needs in those darkened or dis-

stainless steel. Until now. For 2021, the Explorer took on a new look.

tanced environments, the Explorer II offered an extra 24-hour hand,

First, it’s been downsized, from 39mm back to its original 36mm.

a 24-hour marked bezel and an extremely luminous dial. The new

And while it’s being offered in the traditional stainless steel, in an

design made it possible to know whether it was day or night, no

alloy that provides unrivaled strength that Rolex calls Oystersteel,

matter where the wearer might be. “On the Explorer II, you have an

this year the case and bracelet also come in handsome new two-

indication of the 24 hours on the bezel,” Gardinetti said. “It helps to

tone versions. The bracelet features center links of a new 18-karat

know, for example, if it's 5 a.m. or 5 p.m. This is useful if you're in a

gold material called yellow Rolesor. The new 41mm Explorer II in

submarine or in space, as you don't know whether it's morning or af-

Oystersteel features a completely redesigned case and bracelet.

ternoon. Or let’s say you are stuck in a tempest for days and losing

The new Explorer and Explorer II offer ruggedness and refine-

any notion of time.” The Explorer II would come to the rescue.

In its continuing quest to adapt, evolve and improve, Rolex

ment, reliability and good looks, providing the best of all worlds in one watch. From Rolex, of course.

The new Explorer II 17 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Installing the highest weather station in the world on Mt. Everest 18 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Reaching the

TOP

When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's extremes.

K

and once climbers pass 8,000 meters they have entered what

to safeguard the environment, particularly ways to stem climate

some call the “death zone.” Oxygen is so limited, temperatures so

change and preserve the glaciers.

eeping track of time is important in everyone’s life, but

seeking to collect data to protect our endangered planet, whether

when it comes to climbing Mount Everest, it is absolutely

the mountains, the rain forests or the oceans. Perpetual Planet is

vital. The summit is 8,848 meters, or 29,028 feet high,

assisting the National Geographic Society in efforts to find solutions

low and winds so high that life is truly endangered. The brain and

In 2019 a National Geographic-led team of 30 scientists devel-

lungs can swell. Ribs can crack. It’s a place to get in and out of fast

oped five weather

— and then begin the arduous descent down the mountain before

stations to be

darkness sets in.

taken to Mount

Every second counts, which is why Rolex has accompanied

Everest and in-

several history-making expeditions, helping mountaineers keep

stalled at various

life-saving track of time. In doing so, Rolex has tested its timepieces

elevations along

under the harshest conditions imaginable, analyzing their perform-

the climb. The

ance. Then experts apply that research to the watches that end up on

team set up

the retail market for watch lovers whose most difficult climb may be

camps and began the ascent, carrying the disassembled pieces of

up the corporate ladder.

each weather station along the way. The higher up the mountain

For the 50th anniversary of the Explorer and in celebration of the

The National Geographic weather station team on Mt. Everest

they went, the shorter the actual time involved in installing each sta-

latest Explorer II, Rolex pays homage to the men and women who

tion grew — because of depleting levels of oxygen, brutally lower

tackled Mount Everest, battling limits on time, the body and the spirit.

temperatures and punishing winds.

National Geographic offered a vivid account of the expedition.

Improvising When Every Second Counts

The goal was to install the final station at the summit. The day when

The mission: Install the highest weather station in the world to provide

conditions allowed the climb, the trail was slowed because too

crucial information on climate change. More than one-fifth of the

many climbers were blocking the way. The unanticipated shortage

world’s population, some 1.6 billion people, get their water from

of time meant the weather station would have to be installed at

glaciers in the Himalayas. Within the next 80 years, an estimated

8,400 meters, still in the so-called death zone. With every second

one-third of those glaciers, and the water they provide, will disappear

counting, there was no room for more setbacks. If only…

because of global warming.

No one had anticipated that the batteries for the drill needed for

This is where Rolex steps in. The company introduced its Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019 to support the explorers and expeditions

assembly might freeze. But freeze they did, until one clever team member stuck them under his armpit to warm them up. It worked.

19 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

“My Explorer II is probably the most important piece of equipment I had with me on all these climbs.” —Ed Viesturs The troubles didn’t stop there: The weather monitors had to be attached to a pole, and someone forgot to bring the pole. Again, fast thinking was called for. One man realized that the handle of the shovel

oxygen can become serious issues.”

“My watch, and the time it tells, is the key to my safety.”

Pushing the Limits of Body and Mind

he was carrying could do the job, if its oval shape was battered into a Dr. Christine Janin was the first Frenchwoman to climb to the top of circle and wrapped in duct tape (to decrease the size of the opening).

Mount Everest. A former Rolex Testimonee, she later became the Thanks to that last-minute ingenuity, the world’s highest weather stafirst European woman to reach the top of the highest peaks on all tion was assembled and data was sent by satellite from the mounseven continents. And as if that weren’t enough of pushing her tains of the Himalayas to Washington D.C., in impressive time. body, fortitude and determination to the limit, she next became the first

The Key to Survival: Time Management Ed Viesturs, a Rolex Testimonee, has climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks that are over 8,000 meters high (about 26,000 feet) without supplemental oxygen, and he has

North Pole on skis, without the aid of sled dogs.

climbed Mount Everest seven times.

How does she do it?

Strapped to his wrist on each ascent:

“The key to a successful climb or

his Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, which

expedition is to be in excellent shape

he credits with having a direct impact

when you set off,” she observed. “For Dr. Christine Janin

on his safety and success.

that, you must have trained very thor-

“I have a Rolex Explorer II

Ed Viesturs

woman in the world to reach the

oughly and have begun preparing several years earlier in order to

that I received in 1994 when I had

gain sufficient experience and adapt the body to the conditions you

climbed three of the 8,000-meter

are going to face.”

peaks,” Viesturs said. “I wore my Explorer II every single day, since

Not only does the body get stronger, but the spirit does, too.

that moment, on all my climbs, and I still wear it today. It has never

"Summits are conquered meter by meter, breath by breath,”

failed me. It’s probably the most important piece of equipment I have

Janin said. “On the way we discover qualities we didn't know we

with me.”

had that enable us to get to the top. We then feel immense joy in

“When climbing, time management is the most significant factor in my

realizing that we know how to face up to dangers and overcome

success, and ultimately my survival,” he continued. “Each half-hour counts.”

challenges posed by the environment. "This is a philosophy that

He calculates timings for the entire day, he explained, including

Janin has shared to help others through her foundation, À Chacun Son Everest! — To Each His Everest! She helps both chil-

the time he needs to begin his descent.

“I have a rule of turning around by 2 o’clock in the afternoon at

dren and adults recovering from cancer and has arranged for

the latest, whether or not I have reached the summit,” he said. “Some

more than 6,000 people to climb the French Alps, to discover

climbers have found themselves in life-threatening situations because

how successfully challenging physical limits can make a person

they turned back too late. The cold, darkness, fatigue and lack of

stronger in body and soul.

20 20 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Clockwise from top: Ed Viesturs, Dr. Christine Janin, The National Geographic weather station team at work on Mt. Everest 21 21 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Man of the Hour We talk to Ross Povey — one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts on Tudor watches — who takes us through the history of the chronograph and what makes it so special

F

or Ross Povey,

When I went to find out more about them, I discovered that there was

there’s nothing more

very little out there. This was back in 2002, and from then on, I made

desirable than a

it my mission to be the expert and research their history. I set up a

Tudor timepiece, whether it’s to

site, TudorCollector.com, that’s now a big source for information on

wear or collect.

Tudors and talks a lot about vintage ones.

The brand was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, who wanted to offer consumers watches that were affordable

Ross Povey is the founder of TudorCollector.com, which is internationally regarded as the preeminent resource for the vintage Tudor collecting community. As part of his extensive research, Ross has unearthed some of the most important Tudor watches, especially military-issued pieces.

Q. When did you get your first Tudor Chronograph?

A. In 2008, from a local watch dealer. I bought it at a good price and wore it for many years until I traded it in for another Tudor.

but maintained a remarkably high quality.

Tudors are prized for their style, oyster cases and selfwinding mechanism. Each comes with a guarantee for performance and reliability.

Povey, based in Cheshire, England, is one of the world’s

foremost experts on Tudor watches and shares his insights and fascination about the brand below.

Q. How did you become an expert on Tudor watches?

A. I’ve been into watches and the mechanics of how they worked

The Tudor Black Bay Chrono,graph, 2021

since I was a kid. I indulged my interest on online forums with fellow

Q. Today, the Black Bay Chrono, which was recently intro-

enthusiasts.

duced, is the watch everybody wants. Why do you think that is?

Occasionally, people on these forums would chat about Tudors

A. The demand for vintage watches has never been higher than it

and post pictures. I was drawn to them because they are playful and

is today, and the prices are insane. What Tudor does incredibly well is

have colorful dials.

launch watches with a style that appeals to vintage fans, and the 22 22 W W II L LL L II A AM M B BA AR RT TH HM MA AN N M MA AG GA AZ Z II N NE E

Q. That model was followed by the 7100 series, the Monte Carlo in ‘71, another cool name. How did these timepieces differ, and how are they technologically different from today’s versions?

A. Monte Carlo’s dial had similar colors, but the dial itself was a different shape. It looked like a roulette table, hence its name. Today’s versions are more precise with timetelling and sturdier.

Q. You’ve said that the Tudor The Tudor Oysterdate Series 7000, “Home Plate” 1970.

Blue Heritage Chrono is one of your favorites. What in particu-

Black Bay Chrono is a perfect example of that. It has all the vintage lar do you like about it? design cues like the white dial with black sub-dials, but it’s a modern high-tech watch at heart with super quality. It’s not as delicate as a

A. It was released in 2014 and very faithful to the original Monte

vintage watch.

Carlo watches, which I loved.

Q. Can you tell us a bit about the origins and history of the

However, this new version had modern technology and was meant

Tudor Chronograph? We know the Oysterdate 7000 Series to be an everyday watch. It’s also

The Tudor Heritage Chronograph Blue Dial launched in 2014.

was introduced in 1970, but what exactly about it made it waterproof so it could withstand wear and tear, which a vintage take off? And Monte Carlo couldn’t. how did it get

Q. Are there any other Tudor Chronographs that stand out

the nickname “home plate”?

A. I think it was

in your mind? And why?

A. Probably the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s all black and a limited-

so popular because of the style, which was more daring than anything else out there at the time. The gray dial had strong orange accents, and the de-

The Tudor Oysterdate Series 7100, “Monte Carlo” 1971.

sign was a standout that resonated with watch buyers.

As for the nickname, the dial has five-sided arrow markers like the home plate does in baseball.

The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Dark, 2019, named for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s national rugby team. It was originally limited to 1,181 pieces, one unit for each player ever to have played for the team. One watch is added when the team selects a new player.

23 23 WIILLLLIIAAM M BBAARRTTHHM MAANN M MAAGGAAZZIINNEE W

so cool and great for everyday but also for special occasions. I also own the Home Plate from 1970, but I reserve that for special occasions — high days and holidays as I like to say.

Q. Which Tudor/s are you going to pass down to your children?

A. The 1970 Home Plate. I would sell any other watch I own, but this one is a true heirloom that I never want to part with.

Q. Why is it a good time to collect? What are some good choices right now?

And what advice do you have for seasoned as well as new Tudor collectors?

A. Actually, I think this is a difficult time if you want to collect because the prices are sky The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark, 2019

high. The classic Tudors are so expensive and hard to find. My

edition piece. It stands out on your wrist when you wear it, and it’s rare because Tudor had never done a limited-edition watch before.

advice would be to look at the Chronos from the mid to late 1990s if you’re searching for collectibles. You can still buy them for a

Q. Do you think the 2020s are a particularly important time

good value, and, in an ideal world, they’ll be worth a lot more down

for the chronograph? Are design and technology going

the line. But there are no guarantees of that, of course.

through big changes? Or is the classic chronograph taking solid, almost permanent form?

A. The chronograph is timeless and hasn’t changed in form and function since the 1930s. There’s nothing groundbreaking about what the new models do, but they are becoming better quality in the way the movements are manufactured. They’re more precise and more durable.

Q. What is your personal favorite among the Tudor chronographs? What are the things you love about it? And if you have more than one Tudor Chrono, what are they and are there different occasions in which you wear them?

A. My hands-down favorite is the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s just

The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, full view and detail

24 24 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

26 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

27 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Time for

STYLE

Why have just one? Tips on how to build a watch wardrobe START WITH AN EVERYDAY WATCH This watch, as the name suggests, should be your go-to look for day-to-day. For a classic office look, choose a leather or bracelet band. If you want diamonds, keep it simple — diamond indices or a thin line around the bezel is sparkle enough. And for the most versatility, a two-tone bracelet in yellow gold and stainless steel works with most other jewelry and wardrobe pieces, Yraola says.

MOVE OVER DESIGNER HANDBAGS, and say hello to the latest "it" accessory: a wardrobe of watches that lets you flash your fashion sense with the flick of a wrist.

"With designer bags being in one moment and out the next, more women are investing in a statement watch,

GO MORE CASUAL ON THE WEEKENDS

which will hold its value and

A sporty, oversized boyfriend watch is great for casual weekends. Just don't go too big, Yraola advises. If the dial is too large and overhangs the wrist bone it can throw the look off.

For average women she recommends nothing larger than 38mm; 33 mm for petites.

never go out of style," says Genevieve Yraola, a New York style consultant for numerous magazines including Elle. But why limit yourself to one?

“A woman should consider

POLISH UP AN EVENING LOOK The rule of thumb is the

having a few different watches in her

later the hour, the smaller the watch, Yraola says. "Keep it as sleek and slender as a little black dress; you don't want anything that competes with your outfit.

For really dressy affairs, consider a timepiece with a heavy sprinkling of diamonds that looks more like a piece of jewelry than a wristwatch."

wardrobe. Like shoes, not one pair fits with every look she wants to wear," says Yraola, who likes to switch up her style with a rotation of nine different watches. For pointers on how to go about building a

CONSIDER A JUST-FORFUN WATCH As your wardrobe

wardrobe of timepieces

grows, "buy watches that appeal to you and reflect your personal style, "says Palumbo, who owns 12 watches — two that she shares with her husband. "If bright, bold colors are your thing, then go for it." A watch that's cool and quirky can be a great conversation starter.

that you will wear and truly love, we tapped Yraola and Barbara Palumbo, a jewelry and watch journalist, for their advice.

Shown: From top: Breitling Navitimer Automatic 35, Tudor 1926 watch, Bvlgari Serpenti, Hublot Big Bang One Click King Gold White Diamonds.

28 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Time just changed.

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StyleWATCH Explore the Roberto Coin Collection Roberto Coin is one of the world’s most popular jewelry designers. His designs have been worn by fashion icons and celebrities like Michelle Obama, Oprah, Laura Linney, Sophia Vergara, and Kate McKinnon. His designs radiate luxury, style and sophistication, inspired by Vicenza, the “City of Gold” and the heart of Italy’s 18K gold manufacturing industry, with over 700 years of goldsmithing tradition.

The look is thoroughly modern and is designed for everyday wear. To give you a sampling of this exquisite collection, we've chosen a few of our favorite pieces that can be worn over and over again — alone or stacked and layered for bolder impact.

40 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Designer

SPOT LIGHT Le Cube Diamant by dinh van is squaring the circle Created in the 1970s, Le Cube Diamant is a play on filled and unfilled spaces. It combiners the circle, a symbol of spirituality, and the square, a symbol of stability. The two opposite figures unite to greet a beautiful diamond.

Born from the observation of the hand that fingers are not round the shape of dinh van Le Cube Diamant rings and bracelets bring together design and comfort. They are unique, immediately recognizable creations that stand out among all.

44 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Minottes dinh van A clasp turned into a piece of jewelry

In 1976, dinh van drew inspiration from the shape of a key head to design a key-ring that could easily separate into two keys. Attached to a chain, this ingenious system became a clasp. While clasps are traditionally concealed in fine jewelry, dinh van chooses here to turn its clasp into the main highlight of the piece.

The clasp was quickly nicknamed as Menottes dinh van – handcuffs – because once the two elements are interlaced, it is practically impossible to separate them again.

The Menottes dinh van became the symbol of the bond between two loved ones.

47 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

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Understanding

Watch Speak GUILLOCHÉ The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial.

Frederique Constant Ladies Quartz

MOONPHASE

The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Collection:

GRAND COMPLICATION Simply put, a multi-complicated timepiece that includes a minute repeater, moon phases, perpetual calendar, splitseconds chronograph and day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures.

Breitling Mulliner Tourbillon Rose Gold for Bentley

In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold-colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window.

POWER RESERVE The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was only a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.

Breitling Transocean Chrono

CHRONOGRAPH A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return-to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it.

Breitling Chronomat B01

IWC Portugieser Automatic

PERPETUAL CALENDAR A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, and year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.

IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar

50 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Should My Watch Be

Insured?

If you just bought a new timepiece or a vintage one at auction, here are things to consider

Y

ou’ve bought a watch. A really fine watch. An expensive watch. How would you feel if the watch is lost or damaged or even stolen? If you own a luxury watch, whether new or

assessing the condition of the watch at time of purchase.

Chubb, the world’s largest publicly traded property and casualty insurance company, recommends a valuable articles policy for

vintage, purchased from a retailer

watches above $5,000. The cover-

or auction house, it’s time to get

age provides worldwide, all-risk

it insured.

protection that guards against myste-

There are many options avail-

rious disappearance (meaning you

able, offering different levels of

don’t know where you lost your

coverage at different prices. Their

watch,) and accidental damage, like

suitability often depends on the

falling and damaging the watch. The

value of the watch itself. Here are

cost could be $150 to $400 a year to

some guidelines:

cover a $10,000 watch, and there’s

The most obvious way to

no deductible.

insure a watch is to add it to a

Jewelers Mutual Group offers spe-

homeowner’s or renter’s policy.

cialized coverage of jewelry, including

The process can be cumbersome, re-

watches. It safeguards your watch, world-wide, against loss, theft,

quiring finding and getting an

damage and disappearance; it doesn’t cover wars, critters, typical Tudor Black Bay Chrono

appraisal. The Insurance Information Institute, an industry nonprofit or-

wear and tear and intentional damage.

ganization based in New York,

A big advantage of specialized insurers is often how they handle

reports that for a watch value at less than $2000 there would be lim-

repairing or replacing your watch if that time comes, working with a

ited coverage for fire, windstorm, theft and vandalism; the policy may

jeweler of your choice to make sure your piece is repaired or re-

or may not provide coverage while traveling. Such a policy typically

placed with an item of the same kind and quality. The annual cost of

has a $500 to $1,000 deductible.

coverage is between 1% and 2% of the item’s value, so insuring your

If your watch cost more than $2000, or you want to insure

$5000 watch could cost as little as $50 a year. You are able to get a

more that one watch, a personal articles floater might work. The

rate estimate in less than one minute online. The information you

cost could be $20 to $25 for each $1,000 of coverage, and offers

need is what item you need to insure, how much it’s worth and your

broader protection for a valuable watch. Also, there is no de-

zip/postal code. No personal information needed.

ductible, and the items must be professionally appraised. Check with the store where you purchased the watch, it might offer a free

With all the options available, there’s no reason not to play it safe and insure your watch, so it can keep on ticking…

appraisal, while auction houses might provide a condition report 52 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Book online at bensimonspa.com 468 Avenue P, Brooklyn NY 11223

718.998.3099 Open: Sunday-Thursday, 9:00 AM-7:00 PM, Friday, 9:00 AM-4:00 PM Email: bensimonspa@yahoo.com @bensimons