William Barthman Magazine 2020

WILLIAM BARTHMAN THE MAGAZINE

RAINFOREST GUARDIAN

Rolex Associate Laureate Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time

THE ULTIMATE DIVE WATCH The new Tudor Black Bay 58

THE NEW BREITLINGS The next generation of good sports

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Finest

HOUR

From top: Serpenti Tubogas The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Serpenti Seduttori Octo Finissimo Automatic

Bulgari timepieces are standing the test of time ALTHOUGH BULGARI IS KNOWN AS ONE OF THE WORLD'S MOST luxurious jewelry houses, the company has produced some of the world's most iconic watches — changing our perception of the way a timepiece should look. Take the Serpenti, which has been coiling its way into our hearts for 80 years. Or the industrial-cool Octo collection, which is also known for its record-setting slimness. There's really nothing like these iconic timepieces on the market. Read on to see why we think the house's latest iterations of these designs are destined to become classics.

The slithering, coiling-up-the-arm Serpenti Tubogas has been around since the 1940s and the company keeps enticing us with sensuous new versions. The timepiece merges the two most iconic symbols of Bulgari design: the slinky, seductive snake and the flexible tubular litheness reminiscent of Italian steel piping. (Tubogas refers to the metal bands wrapped around the central coils.) This version, in 18K rose gold, accented with diamonds, is powered with a quartz movement. It remains a staple in elegant ladies' watches and is now even water resistant to 50 meters.

A true icon of 21st-century steel watches, the Octo Finissimo Automatic is an elegant fusion of edgy Italian design and Swiss mechanical mastery with its ultra-slim profile (the case is 40 mm and just 6.40 mm thick) and contrast of matte and polished finishes. At the center beats the Bulgari caliber BVL 138 Finissimo movement, which is a mere 2.23 mm thick and entirely manufactured in-house in Bulgari's Swiss watchmaking workshops. Despite it's slender profile, the Octo has an impressive

The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT

power reserve of 60 hours and is water-resistant up to 100 meters (more

proudly claims the title of the world’s

than 300 feet). More luxury touches include a transparent case back and

slimmest mechanical chronograph. The

a blue lacquered dial with sunburst finishing.

sleek, angular case — made of sandblasted

Reimagining Bulgari's seductive snake, the Serpenti Seduttori watch has shed its slinky coiling bracelet for a single flexible band of hexagonal patterned scales. The striking new design features the iconic serpentine

titanium with a titanium dial and bracelet to match — is a slender 42mm (6.90 mm thick). It's powered by the Caliber BVL 318 movement, which is an extra-thin 3.3 mm thick. Peer through the trans-

drop-faced case head — thinner than ever before and accented by dia-

parent case back and you'll see that there is no rotor. To make the

monds. Beyond the alluring aesthetics, the Serpenti Seduttori is powered

self-winding movement this thin, Bulgari used a peripheral rotor in

with quartz movement and is water-resistant up to 50 meters. The model

solid platinum. This Octo also offers a GMT function, showing two

shown has a stainless steel case and bracelet, a stainless steel bezel set

time zones at once, a 55-hour power reserve and is water-resistant

with diamonds and a white silver opaline dial.

up to 30 meters.

10 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER

We hope that this message finds you and your family well. We would first like to take this opportunity to express our fondest gratitude to all of the heroic first responders and front line workers who have bravely faced the many recent unprecedented challenges, and also to convey our deepest sentiments to those who may have suffered as a result of the horrific pandemic. We wish all of you joy and tranquility this holiday season, and we hope that the future brings us all health, optimism and prosperity, and will unite us all, once again. William Barthman is, and will always be, a proud part of the greatest city on earth. Best wishes to you and your family.

Thank You. Jerry Natkin & Steven Natkin.

11 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER

CONTENTS

VOL.6, NO. 1

FEATURES

14

RAINFOREST GUARDIAN

Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time.

ON OUR COVER

18

Jewelry shown is from the Pasquale Bruni Collection at William Barthman.

A SMART INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY— A SWISS TIMEPIECE

COLUMNS 10

Four noted watch experts weigh in on what to buy now.

FINEST HOUR

22

Bulgari timepieces that stand the test of time.

TIMELESS STYLE

The Tudor Black Bay 58 is the ultimate dive watch.

17

ICONIC ELEGANCE The Rolex

26

Lady-DateJust is a classic for a reason.

GOOD SPORTS

Rugged and primed for action, the latest collections from Breitling are vintage-inspired, but with super-cool updates — and they’re not for men only.

21

THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul Newman’s $17,752,500

38

Daytona and more.

LUXURY SUVS: OUR 2021 PREVIEW Luxury SUVs are bigger, faster

and some come with all the comforts of a private jet.

Tudor Black Bay 58

.

48

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

The VENETIAN PRINCESS COLLECTION reflects designer Roberto Coin’s mastery of the jeweler's art.

55

ASTRO WATCH STYLE

Let your horoscope lead you to the ideal timepiece.

12 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Rainforest

GUARDIAN Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time

Topher White hoisting himself into the treetops.

14 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

A LOT OF WORLD-FAMOUS ENTREPRENEURS STARTED THEIR COMPANIES IN A garage. That includes the founders of Amazon, Apple and Google — and Topher White, the founder of Rainforest Connection. His idea for repurposing used cellphones to create a surveillance system of listening devices that can report illegal logging in the world's most vulnerable rain forests started in his parents' garage in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood of San Francisco.

For more than four decades, Rolex has supported exceptional individuals like White, who have the spirit of enterprise, initiating extraordinary projects that help make the world a better place.

The first Rolex Awards were presented in 1976 to commemorate the anniversary of the iconic Rolex Oyster Watch. And in the decades since, an impressive roster of laureates — whose passions and projects reflect the concerns of the times — have been chosen from around the globe. Over the last six years, use of White's monitoring devices

Topher White

has expanded well beyond his garage to remote rainforests throughout the world. It also earned him a coveted Rolex Award for Enterprise.

Every second of the day, approximately two and a half acres of tropical forests are destroyed or drastically degraded, according to the INCUR (International Union for Conservation of Nature), threatening the survival of many species. Illegal logging is the biggest contributor to deforestation, which in turn contributes to climate change. With the world’s rainforests now shrinking so fast that they may be gone by 2100, the need for ways to prevent illegal logging and monitor forest wildlife is urgent.

White's system, in which he rigs a cellphone to stay charged by solar cells was designed to do just that. “One of the most amazing things is that we’re using old technology, the stuff no one’s excited about, to do really cutting-edge science and conservation around the world,” White explains. “We take an old cellphone – the ones everyone

15 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

“The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected, and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.” Topher White throws away – and we can put it high up in the trees of the rainforest.

It can listen to all the sounds and, using artificial intelligence, we can pick out the noise of chain saws, logging trucks, road building – or even of endangered species of birds or animals.”

Currently, hundreds of the treetop monitoring devices have been installed over multiple continents creating a powerful "forest guardian" standing ready to provide timely warnings to communities and law enforcement agencies. “We form partnerships with local tribes, government agencies and community groups, and we can send alerts to them so they can actually show up and stop the illegal activity in real time, on the ground,” White says.

The same technology is also being used to monitor the sounds of rare or important species of birds and animals, providing scientists

White's monitoring devices can detect illegal logging activity and send a text alert to authorities.

with a way to study the health of wildlife populations in a given area

in Brazil, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Romania, South Africa, Belize, Peru, the Philippines and the Indonesian island of Sumatra. “A really important element of what we do is work with local people, the ones who are protecting these areas, as they can have the biggest impact in fighting climate change,” he adds.

What's next for White: “Rainforest Connection technology has surpassed its proof-of-concept phase and has moved into expansion with over 60 new projects in the pipeline. The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.”

White's petal-shaped solar panels are designed to catch the dappled sunlight in the jungle.

And it all started in a garage.

adding momentum to conservation. The sounds are live-streamed, creating a vast digital library that gives scientists raw acoustic data.

“We should be able to detect animals that don’t even make sounds.

Jaguars might not always be vocalizing, but birds and other animals around them are,” he says.

White and his nonprofit group, Rainforest Connection, have extensively tested forest-guardian technology with local communities

Use of the devices has expanded throughout the world.

16 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

17 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

A smart investment opportunity

Swiss Timepieces Four noted fine watch experts share their opinions on what to buy now RIGHT NOW, BUYING A NEW WATCH COULD BE ONE OF THE

Case in point: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Its original design, from

smartest investments around. It’s a purchase that can be worn, enjoyed

1976, with the rounded octagonal bezel, brought a certain elegance to

and even sold — eventually — at a nice profit. The prices paid at auction

the sport watch category that continues. “It is sought-after today,” Bou-

for vintage (ie, “pre-owned”) watches are breaking all records. Six figures,

tros contends. Another reason, besides its good looks: “It’s recogniza-

seven figures, even eight (as in $10

ble. That’s key to its appeal.” And it’s the key to any status symbol: a

million and up) are not uncommon.

design so distinctive it can be instantly identified.

Buying a new watch as a money-

Another classic that could make a good investment, Boutros main-

maker to sell later is becoming as

tains, is “Audemars Piguet’s latest reference of their Royal Oak, 15202,

shrewd an investment as snap-

and their Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak model.” These updates of “origi-

ping up a Lamborghini Miura, a Bir-

nal watches from the 1970s remain highly relevant in terms of style and

kin bag or a pair of Air Jordans.

the case shape.” The first Royal Oak shook up the industry with its

“It’s a good time to buy a

unique, signature octagonal bevel anchored with eight hexagonal

Paul Boutros

great watch,” says Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, for Phillips,

screws, and the novel grid pattern on its dial. “Its masculine aesthetic

arguably the global leader in watch auctions. “In times of uncertainty,

has stood the test of time; demand for these

people look for safe havens for their money. Right now conditions are

modern versions in boutiques proves that,”

favorable for putting money into hard assets as a hedge.” And a new

Boutros says. It’s a track record that

watch, just like gold, is one of the best hedges right now.

bodes well for the watch’s maintaining if

But not just any watch. Knowing which one to purchase now — one that might reap a huge reward if eventually sold — is a tricky busi-

not increasing its value in the future.

Boutros also thinks no one can go

ness. The heads of the watch departments at the world’s top auction

wrong buying a stainless steel Rolex.

houses are the likeliest to know, because their job is to evaluate, accept

“They are relevant for today’s lifestyle, as

and then sell watches that were once brand-new, and have, over time,

more people are dressing casual, whether on

become more valuable. These experts have the most informed advice

Zoom meetings or even at the office with busi-

on the best new watches to buy right now.

ness casual,” he says. “ Rolex’s Submariner, GMT-Master II and

When buying a new timepiece, Boutros advises that “blue chip

Rolex GMT-Master II

Daytona are graceful evolutions true to the originals that have been pro-

watches may be good investments” and suggests buyers “look for

duced continually to today.” They have proven to hold their appeal, and

classic, timeless styles from proven brands — they have enduring

their value.

value.” That’s especially true if they have been given exciting new upto-the-minute twists.

Another big fan of Rolex sports models is Richard Lopez, senior specialist for watches at Sotheby’s in New York. “They continue to be

18 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

Patek Philippe Calatrava

Richard Lopez

popular among seasoned collectors as

steel and features a unique complication: the weekly calendar. The type-

well as new collectors just getting into

face that Patek used for this model is intended to resemble handwritten

the watch game.” Meaning, if you buy

characters, something that has not really been seen before.”

one now, you’re likely to find a collector

He singles out some other brands to in-

who will want to buy it from you in the fu-

vest in as well, zeroing in on “specific models

ture. Examples that Lopez believes will

that have the potential to hold or even grow

hold or increase their value include “the Steel Green Submariner ‘Hulk’,

in value.” From Tudor he recommends the

the Steel Ceramic Daytona Ref. 116500LN, Steel GMT Ceramic ‘Pepsi’

recently introduced Tudor Black Bay Fifty-

126710 BLRO and the Steel GMT Ceramic ‘Batman’ 126710BLNR.”

Eight Navy Blue. “Collectors love blue dials,

Steel models from other watch houses are good investments too, Lopez maintains. “Steel models by Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are extremely sought after and rare, yielding the highest returns,” he says. “Examples of

term winner. Even the original black-dialed Fifty-Eight is still a good potential variant.”

Tudor Black Bay 58

Rebecca Ross, Christie’s watch spe-

current Patek Philippe models to invest in in-

cialist in New York, says “rarity is a big factor” when buying a new watch

clude the Steel Aquanaut Ref. 5167, Steel

with long-term investment value in mind. “If there are fewer of the

Nautilus Ref. 5711 and Steel Calatrava Ref.

watches made, the watch will keep its resale value.” She singles out “the

5522. Audemars Piguet examples include

independent watchmaker F.P. Journe, which makes less than 900

the Steel Royal Oak on bracelet and Steel

watches per year, which compared to other brands is very low. F.P.

Royal Oak Chrono on bracelet.”

Journe is also having a significant moment right now with a number of

At the influential watch website Hodinkee, Brandon Frazin plays the same role as Patek Philippe Aquanaut

in my experience, and this could be a long-

his older watches, so I would not be surprised if some current models from the brand go up in the future.”

the pros at the auction houses. He is the

Ross also suggests looking for

vintage manager and must decide which watches to accept for sale,

“watches that are not run-of-the-mill pro-

and he knows which watches sell well. Frazin is another believer that

ductions, that have details others do

sports watches are good investments these days. As more people

not.” And keep all paperwork at the

are working from home, a business suit and tie are becoming things

point of purchase. “All modern watches

of the past.

should have their documentation, so Within the sports watch category,

make sure you keep the boxes and

Frazin put his faith in Rolex. He advises

papers.” Documentation increases the value of the watch down the

new purchasers to “consider the

line when it’s sold.

models most everyone is aware of,

Brandon Frazin

Rebecca Ross

More good advice, from Ross: “Look after the watch you buy.

including sport models like the Day-

Service it regularly, every three to five years, and change nothing. You

tona, the GMT-Master II, the Subma-

want all the parts, the case, the dial and the movement to be as original

riner and the Sea-Dweller.”

as possible.” Also, before purchasing any new watch, especially if it’s a

And he believes in another blue-chip industry leader, Patek Philippe.

possible investment, she points out, it’s important to educate yourself.

“Look for sport watches from other prestigious Swiss brands like Patek

Go to auctions, take a seat and read the catalogues. That’s a great way

Philippe, with the Nautilus and Aquanaut,” he advises. “And the Patek

to learn about the market, and it’s a lot of fun. You’re always welcome.”

Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5212. It's an interesting design that is cased in

And she advises, as do all the pros: Buy what you love.

20 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

The

5

most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction

The most expensive watch that ever changed hands at

collectors are those paid for watches at

auction was the one-off Patek Phillippe Grandmaster

regular auctions, and they’ve reached in-

Chime sold last year in Geneva for $31 million. The occa-

credible highs as well. The top prices

sion was the 2019 Only Watch auction, a charity event

ever paid for these timepieces should in-

run by Christies. Prices are always unusually high in the name of doing good. The prices that interest most

spire any enthusiast to buy a new one with the potential to sell later — and retire.

$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, Phillips, New York 2017. Arguably the most famous timepiece in the world.

Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, Christie's, Hong Kong 2019. One of only seven Ref. 2523 dual-crown world-time wristwatches believed to have been issued in pink gold — and only the fifth to be offered at auction.

The Unicorn: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265 Phillips, Geneva 2018. Called the Unicorn because of its rarity, it is the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.

$5,708,885

Patek Philippe18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, Christies, Geneva 2010.

Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.

$11,002,000

Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, Phillips, Geneva 2016. It is the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions.

21 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

TIMELESS

STYLE The Tudor Black Bay 58 is the ultimate dive watch

22 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Tudor dive watches have a heritage that the celebrated Swiss watch company continues to honor and elevate to this day DIVE WATCHES ARE SOME

more comfortable, wear-all-day

of the most popular watches

fit for many wrists.

sold today, most often to

Another feature of the Tudor

customers who will never

Black Bay 58 Navy Blue does

wear them with a wetsuit.

double duty as well; its strap

But the watch’s combination

also offers retro appeal and

of handsome good looks,

wear-today comfort. There are

durable design and extreme-

three options: One is a riveted

ly accurate movement

steel bracelet, with removable

appeals to everyone. And in

links that allow for a personal-

the category of dive watch-

ized fit. Another is a leather

es, Tudor is one of the lead-

strap, made from a material so

ers — always was, always

soft it’s been said to feel like

will be.

flannel. And the choice that’s a Tudor signature is a fabric

Tudor dive watches have a heritage that the celebrat-

Black Bay Dark

strap made in the St. Ètienne

ed Swiss watch company continues to honor and elevate to this day

region of France by a century-old family business using traditional

with new renditions that respect their illustrious past but bring them

jacquard shuttle looms. In Tudor blue, of course.

up to the minute. The latest version, introduced this year, is the

The new watch features other Tudor signatures, such as

Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue. The first Black Bay 58 was intro-

“snowflake” hands with angular tips and a distinctive large winding

duced at Baselworld in 2018; the big news in today’s rendition is the

crown. But there’s big news, too: a brand-new movement. The cali-

color. The blue. But not just any blue. Tudor blue.

bre MT5402 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official

Tudor introduced its first dive watch, waterproofed to 200 meters,

Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and was made in-house, as

or 660 feet, in 1958 (hence the homage in the name of the current

all Tudor movements have been since the company started making

model). Some 10 years later, the company gave it a blue dial and

their own in 2015.

bezel. The French Navy loved the result, and throughout the 1970s la Marine Française commissioned their dive watches in what came to

The Black Bay has become so popular that in recent years Tudor has introduced several versions of it: The Black Bay Dark features a steel case finished with black PVD-

be known as Tudor blue.

Today’s watch pays its respects to Tudor’s renowned past in other ways as well. The case measures 39 mm in diameter, the scale used in the 1950s. This move is making critics and customers happy because the new sizing delivers a handsome vintage look and is a

treated coating, adapted from technology developed by NASA for space programs.

The Black Bay 32, 36 and 41 offer a choice of dials — lacquered black, deep blue or satin-brushed champagne.

23 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

The Black Bay has proven to be so popular in recent years that Tudor has launched several versions of it.

The Black Bay Bronze features a 43 mm case in bronze, recalling the brass used in old ships and diving equipment.

The Black Bay GMT, with its luminescent hour markers set against a black dial, clocks local time as well as that in two other time zones.

which Tudor had been supplying with dive watches since the late 1950s. The project was so hush-hush it had a code name: Commando.

There’s a Tudor Black Bay for everyone. As the reviews are coming in, the latest introduction in this long line of options, the

The Black Bay P01, which stands for prototype 1, is modeled on

Black Bay Fifty Eight Navy Blue, just may turn out to become its

a 1967 project to develop a new watch for the United States Navy,

most popular.

Black Bay 32, 36 and 41

Black Bay Bronze

Black Bay GMT

Black Bay P01

24 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Shown models from the Chronomat B01 42, Superocean Heritage 57 and Navitimer Automatic 35 collections.

26 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

A NEW Generation of

GOOD SPORTS Rugged and primed for action, the latest collections from Breitling are vintage-inspired, but with super-cool updates — and they’re not for men only.

IT'S NOT EASY TO KEEP COMING UP

their functionality. With gloves, you

with new plot twists in a 136-year-old

can easily adjust the bezel in high

story, but that's exactly what Breitling

seas or on a deep dive.

And then there's the sheer number

seems to be doing. The brand, famously known for its aviation time-

of choices, including dials in silver,

pieces and chronographs, has added

copper or blue with contrasting black

new Novelties to three key collections:

chronograph counters, or black with

Chronomat, Superocean Heritage and

contrasting silver chrono counters.

Navitimer. All channel vintage design

There is a British racing green dial with black counters in the Bentley edi-

influences of their iconic namesakes, while going big on modern updates,

The Chronomat B01 in-houseismoveTheBreitling Chronomat B01 movement ment is visible through the display back on visible through a sapphire caseback. some models.

tion as well as a stunning copper dial with black counters.

including new case sizes, new bracelets, new dial options — and, for the ladies, diamonds.

You can also have your pick of bands including a red

There’s clearly something for everyone.

gold bracelet and the reintroduced tight-rowed Rouleaux

The Chronomat BO1 42 — The ideal all-purpose sports watch for your every pursuit

bracelet. The Chronomat is powered by the in-house

The rugged, dependable Chronomat is one of Breitling's

(almost 600 feet).

most popular collections. Introduced in 1984, it became an instant hit and was known for its multipurpose, all-terrain

The Superocean Heritage ‘57 — Take it for a swim

(air, sea, land) functionality. What's new is the sleeker

Whether you're a fan of recreational diving or just want to

design with a 42 mm case (downsized from 44 mm),

wear a cool watch, the Superocean Heritage 57 is a winner

straighter lugs and flatter bezel. The signature rider tabs are

that has been turning heads with its laid-back surf-culture

more subtle, lying more flush to the bezel while retaining

inspiration for 63 years.

Breitling Caliber B01, has up to 70 hours of power reserve and is water-resistant up to an impressive 200 meters

27 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

In addition to its sturdy steel case,

out features to recommend it. There's a 70-hour power reserve;

ultra-legible dial and exceptional per-

it's a column-wheel-controlled vertical clutch chronograph, with a

formance, the new Superocean

patented system for auto-centering the reset-to-zero hammer.

Heritage ‘57 includes a rotating ceramic bezel; if you didn't know better, its high-gloss look could be mistaken for polished metal. Under the hood is the caliber 10. It's available in black and blue dial versions with your choice of a vintageSuperocean Heritage 57

inspired leather strap or an integrat-

ed Ocean Classic stainless steel bracelet. You may also choose

The Navitimer Automatic 35 — Just for women Why should men have all the fun wearing an icon? The new smaller Navitimer Automatic 35 Collection was created for women looking for a more refined and elegant version of the classic Navitimer.

First introduced in 1952 as a pilot’s chronograph (Ref.806), the Navitimer is one of the brand’s most popular models. Beyond the smaller size,

the two-tone red gold model with black dial.

Breitling went even further and made the 35 a bit thinner (9.92 mm) than the 38 mm version. But petite doesn't mean less powerful. Like most recent Navitimers, it runs on the same automatic Breitling Caliber 17 movement,

Navitimer Automatic 35

has a 38-hour power reserve and is COSC-certified. The watch is available in stainless steel with blue, copper or silver dial.

There is also a two-tone red gold and steel version that comes with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond set indices.

Superocean Heritage 57

Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 44 Limited Edition — Robust and timeless Another tribute to the iconic 1957 model, this Superocean Heritage, featuring a black-eye green dial, is designed for robust adventure. It’s limited to 500 pieces, powered by the in-house Breitling Caliber 01 and is available either with a black rubber strap or a stainless

Superocean Heritage B01 Chrono steel mesh bracelet. It has some stand28 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

#SQUADONAMISSION

IWC PORTUGIESER. ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.

Portugieser Chronograph. Ref. 3716:

second scale imbue this timelessly elegant watch

T he Por tugie ser’s functional de sign took its

with a distinctive, sporty flair. This design classic

inspiration from the nautical deck watches once

is now powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355

u s e d o n s h i p s to a s s i s t m a r i n e n av i g ati o n.

calibre, which is visible through a transparent

The Por tugieser Chronograph, with its clean,

back cover. And with a precision instrument like

eminently legible dial, is a direct reminder of

this on your wrist, you can be sure of navigating

this heritage. At the same time, the two recessed

your way through life with stylish understatement.

subdials and the flange with its printed quarter-

IWC . ENGINEERING DRE AMS . SINCE 1868 .

IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland

R E G I S T E R TO E X T E N D YO U R I N T E R N AT I O N A L L I M IT E D WA R R A N T Y F R O M 2 TO 8 Y E A R S R E G I S T E R O N I WC .CO M/M Y I WC

IWC-manufactured chronograph movement 69355 calibre · Self-winding · 46-hour power reserve · Stopwatch function with minutes and seconds · Small hacking seconds · Sapphire glass · See-through sapphire-glass back · Water-resistant 3 bar · Diameter 41 mm

L I V E YO U R PA S S I O N HIGHLIFE AU TO O M AT I C CO S C us.frederiqueconstant.com

Proud Pro oud Classroom Supporter

L I V E YO U R PA P SSION C L A S S I C Q UA ARTZ L ADIES us.frederiqueconstant.com

Proud Classroom Classsroom Supporter

Luxury SUVS OUR 2021 PREVIEW

Bentley Bentayga Hybrid

38 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

Luxury SUV's are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet

Lamborghini Urus THE SUV SCRAMBLED UP 5,000 FEET AND AROUND 164 CORNERS AVERAGING 66 MPH to the top of historic Pikes Peak in 10 minutes and 49 seconds. A world’s record for any vehicle in that climb.

And the SUV was a Bentley. A what?

Yes, the Bentley Bentayaga, one of the world’s most expensive SUV’s with a starting price of $300,000, a top end of 190 mph on the highway and a head-turning 3.8 seconds in 0-60 with an optional 626-horsepower 12-cylinder engine Bentley is just one of the big-name, top-dollar luxury-car manufacturers turning out SUV’s that 39 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

SUV’s are outselling sedans two to one, with all the luxury add-ons and safety features of sedans plus more cargo space and better views. with new technology can jam up and down hills, win highway drag

bounce a bit while drinking a glass of Champagne from the $47,000

races or coddle you as you drive around town in extreme luxury and

optional cooler, while sitting in specially padded $27,000 “sanctuary

with the ultimate in safety add-ons.

seats” in the back.

Luxury SUVs offer an extraordinary driving experience combined with more cargo space and better views. That’s why SUVs are out-

The wildest and crazy-cool looking SUV is the $222,004, 664 hp Lamborghini Urus in outrageous orange paint it calls Arancio Borealis

selling sedans two to one.

Seats that massage, heat and ventilate with 22-way power set-

Lamborghini Urus

tings (an extra $11,855 on the Bentley) along with 20-speaker sound

ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

systems, 10.2-inch touch-screen infotainment displays, self-parking,

2.7-liter, turbocharged V-8

654 hp

170 MPH

Bluetooth, GPS navigation and a multitude of safety features like pe-

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

3.8 sec

$222,004

destrian detectors that will slam on the brakes if you don’t — are all available with the top-end models. Some have hybrid assistance. All that, in addition to the extra bulk, typically means mileage of between

Bentley Bentayga Hybrid ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8

641 hp

190 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

3.2 sec

$300,000

with a matching interior. It still looks like a Lambo racing sedan, very sleek and mean, but it can tow 7,000 pounds and it can equal Bentley’s 190 mph top end. Plus it has an adjustable suspension and can raise or lower itself by six inches to accommodate terrain.

Another luxurious and very popular all-terrain SUV is the Mercedes AMG G63, starting at $259,000. It has three different locking differentials and a low-range gear, which means it can tackle any 12 and 20 per gallon, so prepare to open your wallet at the gas tank.

And if the Bentley Bentayaga doesn’t suit you, how about a Rolls Royce Black Badge Cullinan? It’s named for the largest diamond (3,107.6 carats) ever discovered, found in 1906 in South Africa, now

steep grade very, very slowly, or turn that off and zip from zero to 60 in under five seconds while all five of you are sitting in contoured Nappa leather seats and enjoying a massage.

And opt for the roof with obsidian black metallic paint for $1,100

safely locked up in the Tower of London and worth about $2 billion.

extra, and a matching obsidian black ring around the spare-tire

The Rolls has a bare-bones starting price of $382,000.

housing on the back for an extra $1,000, and a carbon fiber engine

It’s not as fast as the Bentley with a top end of only 155, but with a plusher ride and almost equal off-road capability if you’re willing to

cover for $1,500. When you lift the hood, this Mercedes should look serious.

40 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

machine, a PlayStation and the most luxurious seating imaginable.

Mercedes AMG G63

But it is so heavy — over nineteen feet long and eight feet wide — the

ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8

550 hp

150 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

4.8 sec

$259,000

top end is a meager 87 miles an hour.

If you’re not worried about getting attacked by an infantry platoon, you can always settle for offerings by Maserati, Ford, Porsche, BMWX7 and just about every other manufacturer. But most do not have much standard off-road capability and are typically used around town or for long-distance travel. For example, the $100,000+BMWX7 needs a $1,650 optional off-road package with skid plates and

Karlman King ENGINE:

POWER:

TOP SPEED:

6.8-liter, twinturbocharged V-10

360 Hp

87 MPH

0-60:

BASE PRICE:

N/A

$1.9 million

There are many other SUV’s to choose from, far less expensive than the ultra-luxurious and super-fast, among them the all-American Jeep, nastier-looking than ever in the $43,895 Gladiator Rubicon model, which is bigger than the Wrangler you’re used to seeing. It comes with extra storage capacity and an optional three-piece $2,295 body-paint-coordinated hard top. An unusual feature is the $595 forward-facing camera so on the 8.4-inch touch screen, you can see objects on the trail or forest floor as close as two feet in front of you and provide a view of distance as well.

And how about going camping with your SUV? Hit the trail in a $72,895 Ford King Ranch with an optional $369 9-foot by 9-foot

push-button driving modes labeled sand, gravel, rocks and snow.

Sportz Tent by Napier that attaches to the cargo rear and sleeps four

Now that is entitled luxury.

to six people. It has a waterproof floor, lantern holder, two entrance

And here’s an unexpected entry.

doors, storm flaps and mesh windows. And the SUV seats eight,

Ferrari. Yes, the renowned racecar and hypersport manufacturer

with power folding heated rear seats.

will be coming out with an SUV, the Purosangue, in 2022. Specifica-

Meanwhile, if you want to buy the most expensive SUV ever

tions have not been announced, but the word is it’s likely to have a

made, the $1.9 million Karlmann King, designed in China and assem-

turbocharged V-8 with hybrid assistance and to pump out around

bled almost completely by hand in Italy can be ordered from the

650 horsepower.

company, but only about 10 have been made so far. It’s a beast at

Starting price is estimated at $350,000.

10,580 pounds, has optional bulletproofing, a refrigerator, a coffee

Get in line.

41 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

A N E X C L U S I V E C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H W E D D I N G D R E S S D E S I G N E R H AY L E Y PA I G E

A N E X C L U S I V E C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H W E D D I N G D R E S S D E S I G N E R H AY L E Y PA I G E

A N E X C L U S I V E C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H W E D D I N G D R E S S D E S I G N E R H AY L E Y PA I G E

A N E X C L U S I V E C O L L A B O R AT I O N W I T H W E D D I N G D R E S S D E S I G N E R H AY L E Y PA I G E

ROMAN BAROCCO COLLECTION

15 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

OBELISCO COLLECTION

Designer

SPOT LIGHT

Classics from ROBERTO COIN

The story that the Venetian Princess collection tells is a majestic fairy tale that has been passed along in the narrow alleyways of Venice, illuminated only by the reflection of lanterns on the water. All of the pieces in the collection preserve this secret tale.

48 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE

ROYAL PRINCESS FLOWER COLLECTION

MICHELE.COM

Tudor Royal

Bold and ambitious, Aries have to be No. 1.

So of course you need a super-precise timepiece with bold good looks that says, "I mean business."

Tudor Clair de Lune

Ruled by Venus, the planet of love, beauty and money, Librans need to surround themselves with stunning objects. A classic timepiece will reflect your exquisite taste.

Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori

IWC Portugieser Automatic

You may be a practical earth sign, but you are also a lover of luxury which means you want a return on your investment. An iconic watch — sprinkled with diamonds — is a given.

Always so busy, you wish you could clone yourself.

So it's extra important for you to have an ultradependable watch that keeps you on schedule.

Bulgari Serpenti Tubogas

Scorpios know what they want and aren't afraid to work — and play— hard to get it. It's also the sign most closely associated with sex, and nothing is more sexy and sensual than the serpentine Serpenti.

Breitling Navitimer Automatic 41

Your cheery, restless nature always has you on the go — most likely to a party given by one of your many friends and admirers. No wonder you need a watch with a GPS function.

Michele Sidney Classic

Highly intuitive —even psychic — you also have real-world business acumen that relies on a good timepiece.

Rolex Lady-DateJust

The diva of the Zodiac (in only the best possible way), success will always come to you. So be sure to look the part with a classic investment watch.

Breitling Navitimer 35

A perfectionist at heart, Virgo needs a no-nonsense watch that matches her logical, practical, systematic approach to life.

Breitling Chronograph B01

TAG Heuer Connected Golf Edition

Frederic Constant Vitality Smartwatch

Your inner fortitude and ability to ignore distractions is sure to get you ahead. But a classy chronograph with an hour, minute and second timer function can help you stay on track.

Indepedent aquarians like to go their own way — even when it comes to sports. With your love of technology, a smart watch is a must. This one will track and improve your golf game.

Anything water-related appeals to this romantic water sign, including the sea- blue dial of an exquisite watch.

And with your dreamy nature, a timely reminder on your wrist will keep you on schedule.