WILLIAM BARTHMAN THE MAGAZINE
REACHING THE TOP
When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a succesful mission
GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch
MAN OF THE HOUR Ross Povey on the new Tudor Black Bay Chrono
new ads to come
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new ads to come
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Steven will pick new watch ad
THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER
CONTENTS
VOL. 6, NO. 1
FEATURES
WILLIAM BARTHMAN THE MAGAZINE
¸
16
REACHING THE TOP
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REACHING THE TOP
When minutes count, time management can be the most important factor in a succesful mission
GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the Rolex tool watch
MAN OF THE HOUR Ross Povey on the new Tudor Blasck Bay Chrono
20
ON OUR COVER
GAMECHANGERS
Jewelry shown is from our Pasquale Bruni Collection
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COLUMNS 14
24
MAN OF THE HOUR
28
FINEST HOUR
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We talk to Ross Povey – one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts in Tudor watches .
32
FASHION FORWARD We look at some of the great new designs from the Grace Natkin Studio.
30
TIME FOR STYLE
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42
THE NEW BIG PILOTS
WATCHSPEAK
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46
SHOULD YOU INSURE YOUR WATCH
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Tudor Black Bay Chrono
48
STYLEWATCH
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54
DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT-
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12 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
THE MAGAZINE by WILLIAM BARTHMAN JEWELER
We hope that this message finds you and your family well. We would first like to take this opportunity to express our fondest gratitude to all of the heroic first responders and front line workers who have bravely faced the many recent unprecedented challenges, and also to convey our deepest sentiments to those who may have suffered as a result of the horrific pandemic. We wish all of you joy and tranquility this holiday season, and we hope that the future brings us all health, optimism and prosperity, and will unite us all, once again. William Barthman is, and will always be, a proud part of the greatest city on earth. Best wishes to you and your family. Thank You. Jerry Natkin & Steven Natkin.
13 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Finest
HOUR TAG Heuer timepieces are standing the test of time scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in blandit maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.egestas elit eget urna posuere c onsequat. The slithering, coili TAG HEUER AQUARACER PROFESSIONAL 300 scel scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in blandit maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel
From top: Aquaracer Professional 3000 Monaco Chronograph Special Edition Connected Golf Edition Carrera Porche Chronograph Special Edition
the TAG HEUER MONACO CHRONO SPECIAL EDITON iscelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in blandit maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sol-
TAG HEUER CARRERA PORSCHE CHRONOGRAPH SPECIAL EDITION scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facil-
licitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer risque ac.
isi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tin-
Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.risque ac. Integer
cidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero,
egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.egestas
placerat vel porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in
elit eget urna posuere c onsequat. dial with sunburst finishing.
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TAG HEUER CONNECTED GOLF EDITON its slinky coiling bracelet for a single flexible band of hexagonal pat nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget
nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.egestas
urna posuere consequat.risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna po-
elit eget urna posuere c onsequat. at once, a 55-hour power reserve
suere consequat.egesta elit eget urna posuere c onsequat. A true icon
and is water-resistance up to 30 meters. nding movement this thin, Bul-
of 21st-century steel
gari used a peripheral rotor in solid platinum. This Octo also offers a GMT 14 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
16 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Reaching the
TOP
When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's extremes.
K
and once climbers pass 8,000 meters they have entered what
safeguard the environment, particularly ways to stem climate
some call the “death zone.” Oxygen is so limited, temperatures so
change and preserve the glaciers.
eeping track of time is important in everyone’s life, but
seeking to collect data to protect our endangered planet, whether
when it comes to climbing Mount Everest, it is absolutely
the mountains, the rainforests or the oceans. Perpetual Planet is as-
vital. The summit is 8,848 meters, or 29,028 feet high,
sisting the National Geographic Society in efforts to find solutions to
low and winds so high that life is truly endangered. The brain and
In 2019 a National Geographic-led team of 30 scientists devel-
lungs can swell. Ribs can crack. It’s a place to get in and out of fast
oped five weather
— and then begin the arduous descent down the mountain before
stations to be
darkness sets in.
taken to Mount
Every second counts, which is why Rolex has accompanied sev-
Everest and in-
eral history-making expeditions, helping mountaineers keep life-sav-
stalled at various
ing track of time. In doing so, Rolex has tested its timepieces under
elevations along
the harshest conditions imaginable, analyzing their performance.
the climb. The
Then experts apply that research to the watches that end up on the
team set up
retail market for watch lovers whose most difficult climb may be up
camps and began the ascent, carrying the disassembled pieces of
the corporate ladder.
each weather station along the way. The higher up the mountain
For the 50th anniversary of the Explorer and in celebration of the
The National Geographic weather satation team on Mt. Everest
they went, the shorter the actual time involved in installing each sta-
latest Explorer II, Rolex pays homage to the men and women who
tion grew — because of depleting levels of oxygen, brutally lower
tackled Mount Everest, battling limits on time, the body and the spirit.
temperatures and punishing winds National Geographic offered a vivid account of the expedition.
Improvising When Every Second Counts
The goal was to install the final station at the summit. The day when
The mission: Install the highest weather station in the world to provide
conditions allowed the climb, the trail was slowed because too
crucial information on climate change. More than one-fifth of the
many climbers were blocking the way. The unanticipated shortage
world’s population, some 1.6 billion people, get their water from gla-
of time meant the weather station would have to be installed at
ciers in the Himalayas. Within the next 80 years, an estimated one-
8,400 meters, still in the so-called death zone. With every second
third of those glaciers, and the water they provide, will disappear
counting, there was no room for more setbacks. If only…
because of global warming.
No one had anticipated that the batteries for the drill needed for
This is where Rolex steps in. The company introduced its Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019 to support the explorers and expeditions
assembly might freeze. But freeze they did, until one clever team member stuck them under his armpit to warm them up. It worked.
17 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
“My Explorer II is probably the most important piece of equipment that I had with me on all these climbs.” Ed Viesturs The troubles didn’t stop there: The weather monitors had to be attached to a pole, and someone forgot to bring the pole. Again, fast thinking was called for. One man realized that the handle of the shovel
oxygen can become serious issues.” “My watch, and the time it tells, is the key to my safety.” Pushing the Limits of Body and Mind
he was carrying could do the job, if its oval shape was battered into a Dr. Christine Janin was the first Frenchwoman to climb to the top of circle and wrapped in duct tape (to decrease the size of the opening). Mount Everest. A former Rolex Testimonee, she later became the Thanks to that last-minute ingenuity, the world’s highest weather stafirst European woman to reach the top of the highest peaks on tion was assembled and data was sent by satellite from the mounseven continents. And as if that weren’t enough of pushing her tains of the Himalayas to Washington D.C., in impressive time. body, fortitude and determination to the limit, she next became the first
The Key to Survival: Time Management Ed Viesturs, a Rolex Testimonee has climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks that are over 8,000 meters high (about 26,000 feet) without supplemental oxygen, and he has
North Pole on skis, without the aid of sled dogs.
climbed Mount Everest seven times.
How does she do it?
Strapped to his wrist on each ascent:
“The key to a successful climb or
his Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, which
expedition is to be in excellent shape
he credits with having a direct impact
when you set off,” she observed. “For Dr. Christine Janin,
on his safety and success.
that, you must have trained very thor-
“I have a Rolex Explorer II
Ed Viesturs
woman in the world to reach the
oughly and have begun preparing several years earlier in order to
that I received in 1994 when I had
gain sufficient experience and adapt the body to the conditions you
climbed three of the 8,000-meter
are going to face.”
peaks,” Viesturs said. “I wore my Explorer II every single day, since
Not only does the body get stronger, but the spirit does, too.
that moment, on all my climbs, and I still wear it today. It has never
"Summits are conquered meter by meter, breath by breath,”
failed me. It’s probably the most important piece of equipment I have
Janin said. “On the way we discover qualities we didn't know we
with me.”
had that enable us to get to the top. We then feel immense joy in
“When climbing, time management is the most significant factor in my success, and ultimately my survival,” he continued. “Each half-hour counts.” He calculates timings for the entire day, he explained, including
realizing that we know how to face up to dangers and overcome challenges posed by the environment."This is a philosophy that Janin has shared to help others through her foundation, À Chacun Son Everest! –To Each His Everest! She helps both children
the time he needs to begin his descent. “I have a rule of turning around by 2 o’clock in the afternoon at
and adults recovering from cancer and has arranged for more
the latest, whether or not I have reached the summit,” he said. “Some
than 6,000 people to climb the French Alps, to discover how suc-
climbers have found themselves in life-threatening situations because
cessfully challenging physical limits can make a person stronger
they turned back too late. The cold, darkness, fatigue and lack of
in body and soul.
18 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
From top: Ed Viessturs, Dr. Christine Janin, The National Geographic weather station team on Mt. Everest 19 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the tool watch 1953 THE EXPLORER Inspired by knowledge gained from this fascinating chapter of human adventure, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer, launched in 1953 to celebrate the victorious ascent of Everest, immediately acquired iconic status.
1953 THE SUBMARINER Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ watch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Its rotatable bezel allowed divers to read their immersion time.
1955 THE GMT-MASTER The GMT-Master was developed to meet the specific needs of airline pilots. It became the official watch of several airlines, among them the famous Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am. Its most distinguishing visual feature was the two-tone bezel which marked daytime from nighttime hours.
20 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
W
atches can do so much more than tell time. They
multizone capability possible: a rotating two-tone bezel. The watch
help climbers get to the top of the world’s highest
expert and historian Gregory Gardinetti explained the advantage.
peaks, and divers to the oceans’ deepest depths.
“If you don't touch the rotating bezel, the GMT hand will simply in-
These marvels of engineering are known as "tool" watches, and
dicate the local time on a 24-hour scale. And if you move the bezel,
Rolex is the category’s undisputed star.
you can choose the time zone you want. This is very useful infor-
Like all tools, these devices enable humans to accomplish goals,
mation for pilots flying through different time zones." Rolex’s mis-
and in Rolex’s case those have often been record-breaking and his-
sion for Pan Am — and all other airlines — was accomplished. And
tory-making. To aid in the success of these missions, tool watches
because Rolex continually improves on its watches, the GMT
require the highest levels of technology, engineering, science and
Master available today is able to keep track of the time in three dif-
watchmaking, which the team at Rolex unequivocally possesses.
ferent time zones.
Over the years, Rolex has been in the enviable position of being
Another iconic tool
able to use the many explorations it has supplied watches for as la-
watch to come out of the
boratories to test those very same timepieces. Upon completion of
1950s is the Submariner.
each mission, Rolex was able to examine and probe the watch’s
Introduced In 1953, the
performance and improve and adapt it accordingly. The original tool
Submariner was the first
watches became templates to develop, refine and update, creating
dive watch waterproof to
the watches that are available today for anyone to put on their wrist
100 meters (about 330
and enjoy, even people whose biggest adventure may be entering
feet). It also sported the
the boardroom or signing into a Zoom chat.
all-important rotating
The 1950s were the golden age when three of Rolex’s most fa-
bezel, which enabled the
mous tool watches were born. That first full decade after World War
watch to keep track of im-
II was a time of unparalleled optimism, and out of that spirit came an
mersion times and to cal-
attendant desire for expansion and the exploration that precedes it.
culate the varying
Rolex was there with watches that enabled ground-breaking adven-
amounts of time to spend
tures on land, air and sea.
in decompression stops.
The Rolex GMT Master was created in 1955 in collaboration with
The latest Submariner, introduced in 2020 ,can descend to a depth of 300 meters or 1,000 feet
The Submariner was so ground-breaking and respected that it
Pan American Airways in response to changes in air travel. Long-
soon cemented Rolex’s position as the watch brand for water ex-
haul flights were becoming more and more common, and the airline
ploration. Once again, Rolex continued to refine the watch, and the
needed a watch for its pilots that would clock the time back home
latest version of the Submariner can descend to a depth of 300
as well as the time while traveling across oceans and foreign lands.
meters, or 1,000 feet.
The GMT Master was one of the few watches that could display the
Rolex has a history of supplying Oyster watches for expeditions
time in any two zones around the world, keeping both pilots and
climbing the various peaks of the Himalaya Mountains. In 1953
their globe-trotting passengers up to the minute, no matter where
Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of
they were.
Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Their ex-
An extra hour hand was added to the innovation that made this
pedition was the first to reach the 8,848-meter (29,028-foot) moun-
21 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
In 1953 Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. whether it's morning or afternoon. Or let’s say you are stuck in a tempest for days and losing any notion of time.” The Explorer II would come to the rescue. In its continuing quest to adapt, evolve and improve, Rolex revised the Explorer II. The version introduced in 2011 grew a bit in size, in 39mm to 42mm and enlarging its luminescent hour markers and 24-hour signature orange arrow-tipped hands. Which brings us to today. To celebrate its 50th birthday in 2021, Rolex has revamped the Explorer II yet again. It now features a new luminescing process that increases the brightness of the watch’s hands for better Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on Mount Everest.
readability. It also incorporates tain’s summit. The Explorer inspired by their achievement was con-
the multi-patent-winning caliber
structed of rugged stainless steel and featured a clear, very
3285, which provides better
legible dial as well as a waterproof case that could withstand not just
precision, shock resistance and
the moisture from melting snow and ice but also extremes in tem-
power reserve.
perature as well. Despite the absence of any bells and whistles (like
The Explorer and the Explorer
rotating bezels), the result of Rolex’s tool-making skill was just what
II have always been produced in
the adventure-minded needed: “a very strong and accurate watch,”
stainless steel. Until now. For
Gardinetti said.
2021, the Explorer took on a
Fast-forward nearly two decades, to 1971, when Rolex intro-
new look. First, it’s been down-
duced the Explorer II. Rather than being designed to aid mountain
sized, from 39mm back to its
climbers, the new watch was created with other types of expedi-
original 36mm. And while it’s
tions in mind — those exploring regions like caves or polar caps,
being offered in the traditional stainless steel, in an alloy that pro-
where light is scarce or irregular. To meet the needs in those dark-
vides unrivaled strength that Rolex calls Oystersteel, this year the
ened or distanced environments, the Explorer II offered an extra
case and bracelet also come in handsome new two-tone versions.
24-hour hand, a 24-hour marked bezel and an extremely luminous
The bracelet features center links of a new 18-karat gold material
dial. The new design made it possible to know whether it was day
called yellow Rolesor. The new 41mm Explorer II in Oystersteel
or night, no matter where the wearer might be. “On the Explorer II,
features a completely redesigned case and bracelet.
you have an indication of the 24 hours on the bezel,” Gardinetti
T he first Explorer II, introduced in 1971
The new Explorer and Explorer II offer ruggedness and refine-
said. “It helps to know, for example, if it's 5 a.m. or 5 p.m. This is
ment, reliability and good looks, providing the best of all worlds in
useful if you're in a submarine or in space, as you don't know
one watch. From Rolex, of course.
22 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
This year Rolex introduced an all new Explorer and Explorer II, above 23 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Man of the Hour We talk to Ross Povey – one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts in Tudor watches — who takes us through the history of the chronograph and what makes it so special
R
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Vestibulum
neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel
sodales porttitor urna eget fer-
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mentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt
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facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae,
Ross Povey is the Founder of TudorCollector.com, which is internationally regarded as the preeminent resource for the vintage Tudor collecting community. As part of his extensive research, Ross has unearthed some of the most important Tudor watches, especially military-issued pieces.
sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maxi
nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales
Q. The first chronos had pecialized designs, like the Monte Carlo, which looks like a roulette wheel, or the Homeplate, which seems to be accented with baseball bases? Will we be seeing more of those?
A.
teger egestas
porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in
The Tudor Oysterdate Series 7100, “Monte Carlo” 1971
blandit maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere
elit eget urna posuere
consequat.risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere con-
consequat.facilisi. Ves-
sequat.egestas elit eget urna posuere c on
tibulum sodales portti-
A.
tor urna eget The Tudor Oysterdate Series 7000, “Home Plate” 1970
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel
fermentum. Ut sem
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel
nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum
24 22A N M A G A Z I N E WILLIAM BARTHM
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sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis
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neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel
sodales porttitor
porta vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in blandit
urna eget fermen-
Q.
tum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sol-Tudor Prince Oysterdate Series 9400, “Big Block” The 1976 fearuring the first automatic movement
licitudin eu tortor.
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel
nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvinar aliquam massa. Duis nisl libero, placerat vel porta
Integer maximus, erat in blandit
vitae, sollicitudin eu
Q.
tortor. Integer maxi-
nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. In-
mus, erat in blandit
teger egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum
maximus, orci
sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut sem velit, tincidunt facilisis
A.
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel
neque ornare, pulvinar
eros convallis
erat, vel posuere mau-
aliquam massa. Duis
ris dui vel nisi. Nam
nisl libero, placerat vel
The Tudor Prince Oysterdate Series 79200, “Sapphire” 1995
sollicitudin turpis tor-
porta vitae, sollicitudin
tor, in sodales enim
eu tortor. Integer maxi-
scelerisque ac. Integer risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna po-
mus, erat in blandit
suere consequat.risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere
maximus, orci eros
consequat.egestas
convallis erat, vel
elit eget urna posuere c onsequat
A.
posuere mauris
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi.
dui vel nisi. Nam sollici-
Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer
tudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim sceler-
The Tudor Prince Oysterdate Series 79100, “Big Block” 1989 featuring the “Panda” and “Reverse Panda” configurations
egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac.
isque ac. Integer risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere
Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum
consequat.risque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna posuere con-
sodales porttitor urna eget fermentum. Ut Nam sollicitudin turpis tor-
sequat.egestas elit eget urna posuere c onsequat
tor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. Integer egestas elit eget urna po-
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi.
suere consequat.facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna eget
25 23A N M A G A Z I N E WILLIAM BARTHM
Q.
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nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. In-
nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor,
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Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna
neque ornare, pulvinar ali-
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quam massa. Duis nisl
dunt facilisis neque ornare, pulvi-
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nar aliquam massa. Duis nisl
vitae, sollicitudin eu tortor.
libero, placerat vel porta vitae, sol-
teger maximus, erat in
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blandit maximus, orci
maximus, orci eros conval-
The Tudor Heritage Chronograph Blue Dial launched in 2010
maximus, orci eros convallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel
In-
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono launched in 2017
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The new Tudor Black Bay 58 Chronograph
24 26 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Grace Na
28 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
tkin ad
29 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
The New BIG
PILOTS
IWC Nam tempor lectus sit amet hendrerit gravida lectus sit amet
IF THE GOAL OF EVERY GREAT JEWELRY DESIGNER IS TO
R IS TO create the next icon, Duke Fulco di Verdura would be
create the next icon, Duke Fulco di Verdura would be pleased. His
pleased. His trademark pieces have been coveted for nearly a cen-
trademark pieces have been coveted for nearly a century.
tury.
Although Fulco, as he was known to his famous friends and clients,
Although Fulco, as he was known to his famous friends and clients,
including Coco Chanel, Cole Porter and Vincent Astor, died in 1979,
including Coco Chanel, Cole Porter and Vincent Astor, died in 1979,
the archives of his 81-year-old company are still there, providing
the archives of his 81-year-old company are still there, providing
constant inspiration to its current owners, Ward Landrigan, the
constant inspiration to its current owners, Ward Landrigan, the
CEO, and his son, Nico, the company's president. Together, the
CEO, and his son, Nico, the company's president. Together, the
Landrigans continue to build on Duke Fulco di Verdura’s legacy,
Landrigans continue to build on Duke Fulco di Verdura’s legacy,
combing the rich archives of nearly 10,000 original sketches, of
combing the rich archives of nearly 10,000 original sketches, of
which less than half have ever been realized. Their mission: To
which less than half have ever been realized. Their mission: To
create bold and timeless jewelry that speaks to a new generation. In
create bold and timeless jewelry that speaks to a new generation. In
other words — the next icons. Today, Verdura’s fine jewelry is avail-
other words — the next icons. Today, Verdura’s fine jewelry is avail-
able at Betteridge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry. See
able at Betteridge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry. See
who wore them first!
who wore them first! ge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry.
lthough Fulco, as he was known to his famous friends and
See who wore them first!ge. Here are just some of the pieces we
clients, including Coco Chanel, Cole Porter and Vincent Astor, died
carry. See who wore them first!ge. Here are just some of the pieces
in 1979, the archives of his 81-year-old company are still there, pro-
we carry. See who wore them first!
viding constant inspiration to its current owners, Ward Landrigan,
hough Fulco, as he was known to his famous friends and
the CEO, and his son, Nico, the company's president. Together, the
clients, including Coco Chanel, Cole Porter and Vincent Astor, died
Landrigans continue to build on Duke Fulco di Verdura’s legacy,
in 1979, the archives of his 81-year-old company are still there, pro-
combing the rich archives of nearly 10,000 original sketches, of
viding constant inspiration to its current owners, Ward Landrigan,
which less than half have ever been realized. Their mission: To
the CEO, and his son, Nico, the company's president. Together, the
create bold and timeless jewelry that speaks to a new generation. In
Landrigans continue to build on Duke Fulco di Verdura’s legacy,
other words — the next icons. Today, Verdura’s fine jewelry is avail-
combing the rich archives of nearly 10,000 original sketches, of
able at Betteridge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry. See
which less than half have ever been realized. Their mission: To
who wore them first!ge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry.
create bold and timeless jewelry that speaks to a new generation. In
See who wore them first!ge. Here are just some of the pieces we
other words — the next icons. Today, Verdura’s fine jewelry is avail-
carry. See who wore them first!
able at Betteridge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry. See 30 13 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volut-
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volut-
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volut-
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volut-
31 13 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volut-
Time for
STYLE
Why have just one? Tips on how to build a watch wardrobe START WITH AN EVERYDAY WATCH This watch, as the name suggests, should be your go-to look for day-to-day. For a classic office look, choose a leather or bracelet band. If you want diamonds, keep it simple — diamond indices or a thin line around the bezel is sparkle enough. And for the most versatility, a two-tone bracelet in yellow gold and stainless steel works with most other jewelry and wardrobe pieces, Yraola says.
MOVE OVER DESIGNER HANDBAGS, and say hello to the latest "it" accessory: a wardrobe of watches that lets you flash your fashion sense with the flick of a wrist. "With designer bags being in one moment and out the next, more women are investing in a statement watch,
GO MORE CASUAL ON THE WEEKENDS
which will hold its value and
A sporty, oversized boyfriend watch is great for casual weekends. Just don't go too big, Yraola advises. If the dial is too large and overhangs the wrist bone it can throw the look off. For average women she recommends nothing larger than 38mm; 33 mm for petites.
never go out of style," says Genevieve Yraola, a New York style consultant for numerous magazines including Elle. But why limit yourself to one? “A woman should consider
POLISH UP AN EVENING LOOK The rule of thumb is the
having a few different watches in her
later the hour, the smaller the watch, Yraola says. "Keep it as sleek and slender as a little black dress; you don't want anything that competes with your outfit. For really dressy affairs, consider a timepiece with a heavy sprinkling of diamonds that looks more like a piece of jewelry than a wristwatch."
wardrobe. Like shoes, not one pair fits with every look she wants to wear," says Yraola, who likes to switch up her style with a rotation of nine different watches. For pointers on how to go about building a
CONSIDER A JUST-FORFUN WATCH As your wardrobe
wardrobe of timepieces
grows, "buy watches that appeal to you and reflect your personal style, "says Palumbo, who owns 12 watches — two that she shares with her husband. "If bright, bold colors are your thing, then go for it." A watch that's cool and quirky can be a great conversation starter.
that you will wear and truly love, we tapped Yraola and Barbara Palumbo, a jewelry and watch journalist, for their advice.
Shown: From top: Breitling Navitimer Automatic 35, Tudor 1926 watch, Bvlgari Serpenti, TAG Heuer Connected 32 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
IWC PORTUGIESER. ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.
R E G I S T E R TO E X T E N D YO U R I N T E R N ATI O N A L L I M IT E D WA R R A N T Y F R O M 2 TO 8 Y E A R S R E G I S T E R O N IWC .CO M/M Y I WC
Portugieser Chronograph. Ref. 3716:
second scale imbue this timelessly elegant watch
T he Por tugie ser’s functional de sign took its
with a distinctive, sporty flair. This design classic
inspiration from the nautical deck watches once
is now powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355
u s e d o n s h i p s to a s s i s t m a r i n e n av i g ati o n.
calibre, which is visible through a transparent
The Por tugieser Chronograph, with its clean,
back cover. And with a precision instrument like
eminently legible dial, is a direct reminder of
this on your wrist, you can be sure of navigating
this heritage. At the same time, the two recessed
your way through life with stylish understatement.
IWC-manufactured chronograph movement 69355 calibre · Self-winding · 46-hour power reserve · Stopwatch function with minutes and seconds · Small hacking seconds · Sapphire glass · See-through sapphire-glass
subdials and the flange with its printed quarter-
IWC . ENGINEERING DRE AMS . SINCE 1868 .
back · Water-resistant 3 bar · Diameter 41 mm
IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland
and ACCUTRON are registered trademarks.
Time just changed. Again.
JEWELER’S NAME + URL
and ACCUTRON are registered trademarks.
Time just changed. Again.
JEWELER’S NAME + URL
L I V E YO U R PA S S I O N HIGHLIFE AU TO M AT I C CO S C us.frederiqueconstant.com
Proud Classroom Supporter
L I V E YO U R PA S S I O N C L A S S I C Q UA R T Z L ADIES us.frederiqueconstant.com
Proud Classroom Supporter
! " # $ % & # ' ( " ) * + , , & * ( ' + -)
Understanding
Watch Speak GUILLOCHÉ The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial. Frederique Constant Ladies Quartz
MOONPHASE
The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Collection:
GRAND COMPLICATION Simply put, a multi-complicated timepiece that includes a minute repeater, moon phases, perpetual calendar, splitseconds chronograph and day, month, leap year and day/night indication in apertures.
Breitling Mulliner Tourbillon Rose Gold for Bentley
In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold-colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window.
POWER RESERVE The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was only a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.
Breitling Transocean Chrono
Breitling Chronomat B01
CHRONOGRAPH
IWC Portugieser Automatic
A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return-to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it.
PERPETUAL CALENDAR A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, and year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.
IWC Pilot’s Watch Chrono “Edition Petit Prince”
42 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
55 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE MICHELE.COM
Should My Watch Be
Insured?
If you just bought a new timepiece or a vintage one at auction, here are things to consider.
I
f you are buying your first “real” watch — one that costs hun-
$2,000, most likely this is the best coverage to have. There is lim-
dreds, if not thousands, of dollars — you may be wondering
ited coverage for fire, windstorm, theft and vandalism, and there
whether you should insure it. And if you do, what kind of insur-
is typically a $500 to $1,000 deductible. You also may not have coverage while traveling, but check the policy.”
ance should you get?
But let’s say your watch
Specialists say there are no rules, but there is lots to con-
cost more than $2,000, or
sider.
you have more than one watch. Consider a personal
“Insurance puts peoples’ minds at ease, at a cost,” said
articles floater, which could
Paul Boutros, head of
be $20 to $25 for each
watches, Americas, at Phillips
$1,000 of coverage. “While
auction house in New York.
more costly, this option of-
“My general advice is, would a
fers broader protection for a
potential loss of a timepiece or
valuable watch, and there is
collection put a dent in your
no deductible,” Ms. Worters
personal financial situation? I
wrote in an email. “Before
If it’s yes, then insurance is a
purchasing a floater, the
good idea.”
items covered must be professionally appraised.”
Even if you are undecided,
Dig deeper into the mo-
you still should gather the documents you would need to ob-
Tudor Black Bay Chrono
ment.Special offer: Sub-
tain coverage. If you are buying retail, keep all the receipts,
scribe for $1 a week. And that would include even a new
paperwork and packaging. At an auction, request a condition
purchase. “The watch may be a new, never-worn Rolex, for ex-
report.
ample, but the customer may actually be getting a fake Rolex or a
“Normally people ask for a condition report so they can confirm the condition of the watch at the time of purchase,” said Sabine
watch with counterfeit parts,” she wrote. A watch or jewelry store likely would provide a free appraisal
Kegel, Christie’s head of watches, Europe. (And insurance is a good
of a piece that it sold to you, while an independent appraiser
idea, she added. “Watches and jewelry are easy to steal.”)
would charge $50 to $150, depending on the location and the ap-
Covering the timepiece in a general homeowner’s or renter’s policy could make sense, according to Loretta Worters, vice president
praiser’s experience, Ms. Worters said. Insurance companies offer their own versions of floaters.
of media relations at the Insurance Information Institute, an industry
Chubb, which identifies itself as the world’s largest publicly
nonprofit organization based in New York. “For a watch that is under
traded property and casualty insurance company, offers a floater
46 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
StyleWATCH What's new from ROBERTO COIN Roberto Coin's jewelry has always been inspired by his deep knowledge of Italian art. The Venetian Princess and Navarra Collections are no exception. With its twists of 18karat gold strands and hand-picked diamonds forming designs are clearly rooted in that heritage. Yet the powerful motifs look thoroughly modern and are designed for everyday wear. To give you a sampling of this exquisite collection, we've chosen a few of our favorite pieces that can be worn over and over again — alone or stacked and layered for bolder impact.
Stack your fingers, stack your wrists Like the domes that sit atop Italian cathedrals, the pavé clusters that make up this repetitive design are meant to catch the eye — and inject a little glamour into daytime wear. Available in 18-karat white, rose and yellow gold — ideal for mixing and matching into a stack.
48 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Final ad ordered, due 9/15
Final ad ordered, due 9/15
Final ad ordered, due 9/15
Service
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52 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE
Designer Spotlight Italy’s Giuseppe is the of gemstones DINH VAN copyPicchiotti goes her and heremaster and here and here
Founded in 1967 by Giuseppe Picchiotti, the PICCHIOTTI brand has been hand-crafting luxury fine jewelry in the heart of Valenza, Italy for over 50 years.
Giuseppe Picchiotti, whose home base is Valenza Italy, runs the company with his wife, Matilde, and their three children, Maria, Filippo and Umberto.
New Dinh Van copy and images here
MOST ARTISTS USE PAINT AS THEIR MEDIUM. Giuseppe Picchiotti creates his exquisite masterpieces from colorful gemstones and diamonds.
Known for mixing large stones with smaller calibrated diamonds, particularly square and baguette cuts, he recently introduced another innovation: expandable diamond rings and bangles, incorporating hidden technology that allow the pieces to slide on and off
easily, stay on firmly and never lose their elasticity. The rings expand up to two sizes, so they'll slip over knuckles and fit different finger sizes — even if the wearer changes sizes over the years. Brilliant!
The Xpandable Collection includes exquisite eternity rings, fashion rings and bracelets. 54 WILLIAM BARTHMAN MAGAZINE