ABC Jewelers by David Perry

ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

ABC Jewelers www.abcjewelers.com

A C O N V E R S AT I O N W I T H J O H N A N D J I M J O N E S O F A B C J E W E L E R S

ABC Jewelers 1234 Fifth Street Anytown, OH 10000 666-343-2400 What do you miss most during the pandemic? John – I miss the free time to educate myself on various interests. I was able to take courses on diamond grading with the Gemological Institute of America. I was also able to take the time to teach myself more about investment options for my future.

John and Jim Jones Jim – I miss spending most of my day with my fiancé. With both of us home during the pandemic, we were able to share more time together. Also, I was able to cook a lot, and I miss having that extra time to create new and fun meals for breakfast, lunch and dinner. What is your favorite meal? John – My favorite meal would have to be a seafood linguini in a spicy red sauce. Peter – My favorite meal is lamb chops. But the most important part of dinner is a great dessert — my favorite is a warm apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream. Name something about yourself most clients don’t know about you? John – I was a collegiate baseball player and was the captain of my team during my senior year. I also consider myself a foodie and really enjoy eating out and trying new restaurants and cuisine. Jim – I was a two-sport collegiate athlete playing both football and baseball in college. I am also an avid country music fan and enjoy country concerts, country music festivals, and country radio.

Best concert? John – I went to my first Kenny Chesney concert last summer and had an absolute blast. Definitely my favorite concert yet! Jim – Zac Brown Band and Kenny Chesney at Metlife Stadium in August 2011 as part of the Goin’ Coastal Tour. It was a privilege to see two extremely talented musicians in the same night. Outside of jewelry, what brands do you admire? John – I really admire Apple, Disney, and Harley Davidson due to their ability to have attracted loyal and return clients for generations. They have great brand recognition and success. Jim – I would have to say I don’t have loyalty towards too many brands, but some of the brands I find myself continuously purchasing are Apple, Nike, and Yeti. If not in the jewelry biz, what would you be doing? John – I went to college to study accounting, so I would likely to have had a career in accounting and would have pursued obtaining my CPA. Jim– I always had a passion for small business. I’m not sure what industry I’d wiggle my way into, but I feel as if I would be running a small

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business of some sort. What is your favorite watch? John – My favorite is the Rolex Daydate 40 in Everose Gold featuring an Olive Green dial. The Daydate is an iconic watch worn by the most prominent figures around the world. Jim – The Rolex GMT Master II. It’s fantastic for everyday wear and the GMT function is extremely useful during my traveling. What is your favorite business trip? John – My favorite work trip would be the JCK/Luxury and Couture Show. This trip consists of a week in Las Vegas where we are able to explore virtually every brand in the industry. This is where we choose our new product for the year and look for exciting new brands for our clients! Jim – Baselworld 2018 was truly an incredible trip. It was the first time we had been to the famous watch fair in Basel, Switzerland. That trip represented Gerald Peters reaching a huge milestone. What is your favorite vacation? John – I prefer a very relaxing vacation — anywhere with a nice pool or beach with no obligations. I especially like Aruba due to the restaurants and beautiful resorts. Jim – I enjoy a vacation that combines both relaxation and sightseeing. My favorite was a trip to Greece where I visited Santorini, Mykonos and Athens. I can't wait to go back!

T H E

M A G A Z I N E

by ABC J E W E L E R S

CONTENTS

VOL.2, NO. 1

FEATURES

ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

RAINFOREST GUARDIAN

Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time.

ON OUR COVER

A SMART INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY— A SWISS TIMEPIECE

ABC Jewelers is Anytown’s only authorized Rolex Jeweler.

Four noted watch experts weigh in on what to buy now.

COLUMNS 13

FACETIME

ROYAL WATCH

Rolex introduces the new reimagined designs for the DateJust 36.

Prince Harry and the Royals fine taste in timepieces.

THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul Newman’s

TIMELESS STYLE

The Tudor Black Bay 58 — the ultimate dive watch.

$17,752,500 Daytona and more.

Tudor Black Bay Chrono

GOOD SPORTS

DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT

The VENETIAN PRINCESS COLLECTION reflects designer Roberto Coin’s mastery of the jeweler's art.

Rugged and primed for action, the latest collections from Breitling are vintage-inspired, but with super-cool updates — and they’re not for men only.

ABC JEWELERS GIFT GUIDE

The ABC Jewelers. team share their persona l picks for the jewelry and watch lovers on your list.

ALL THAT GLITTERS...

A sparkling sampling of diamond jewelry from our Rahaminov collection.

9 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

WATCHSPEAK

Uncomplicating the world of fine timepiece complications.

Rainforest

GUARDIAN Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time

Topher White hoisting himself into the treetops. 10 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

A LOT OF WORLD-FAMOUS ENTREPRENEURS STARTED THEIR COMPANIES IN A garage. That includes the founders of Amazon, Apple and Google — and Topher White, the founder of Rainforest Connection. His idea for repurposing used cellphones to create a surveillance system of listening devices that can report illegal logging in the world's most vulnerable rain forests started in his parents' garage in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood of San Francisco. For more than four decades, Rolex has supported exceptional individuals like White, who have the spirit of enterprise, initiating extraordinary projects that help make the world a better place. The first Rolex Awards were presented in 1976 to commemorate the anniversary of the iconic Rolex Oyster Watch. And in the decades since, an impressive roster of laureates — whose passions and projects reflect the concerns of the times — have been chosen from around the globe. Over the last six years, use of White's monitoring devices

Topher White

has expanded well beyond his garage to remote rainforests throughout the world. It also earned him a coveted Rolex Award for Enterprise. Every second of the day, approximately two and a half acres of tropical forests are destroyed or drastically degraded, according to the INCUR (International Union for Conservation of Nature), threatening the survival of many species. Illegal logging is the biggest contributor to deforestation, which in turn contributes to climate change. With the world’s rainforests now shrinking so fast that they may be gone by 2100, the need for ways to prevent illegal logging and monitor forest wildlife is urgent. White's system, in which he rigs a cellphone to stay charged by solar cells was designed to do just that. “One of the most amazing things is that we’re using old technology, the stuff no one’s excited about, to do really cutting-edge science and conservation around the world,” White explains. “We take an old cellphone – the ones everyone

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“The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected, and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.” Topher White throws away – and we can put it high up in the trees of the rainforest. It can listen to all the sounds and, using artificial intelligence, we can pick out the noise of chain saws, logging trucks, road building – or even of endangered species of birds or animals.” Currently, hundreds of the treetop monitoring devices have been installed over multiple continents creating a powerful "forest guardian" standing ready to provide timely warnings to communities and law enforcement agencies. “We form partnerships with local tribes, government agencies and community groups, and we can send alerts to them so they can actually show up and stop the illegal activity in real time, on the ground,” White says. The same technology is also being used to monitor the sounds of rare or important species of birds and animals, providing scientists

White's monitoring devices can detect illegal logging activity and send a text alert to authorities.

with a way to study the health of wildlife populations in a given area

in Brazil, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Romania, South Africa, Belize, Peru, the Philippines and the Indonesian island of Sumatra. “A really important element of what we do is work with local people, the ones who are protecting these areas, as they can have the biggest impact in fighting climate change,” he adds. What's next for White: “Rainforest Connection technology has surpassed its proof-of-concept phase and has moved into expansion with over 60 new projects in the pipeline. The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.”

White's petal-shaped solar panels are designed to catch the dappled sunlight in the jungle.

And it all started in a garage.

adding momentum to conservation. The sounds are live-streamed, creating a vast digital library that gives scientists raw acoustic data. “We should be able to detect animals that don’t even make sounds. Jaguars might not always be vocalizing, but birds and other animals around them are,” he says. White and his nonprofit group, Rainforest Connection, have extensively tested forest-guardian technology with local communities

Use of the devices has expanded throughout the world.

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Face

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A smart investment opportunity

Swiss Timepieces We ask noted fine watch experts their opinions on owning an icon RIGHT NOW, BUYING A NEW WATCH COULD BE ONE OF THE

Case in point: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Their original design, from 1976,

smartest investments anyone can make. It’s a purchase that can be

with the rounded octagonal shape of its bezel, brought a certain ele-

worn and enjoyed, and eventually even sold at a nice profit. The prices

gance to the sport watch category that continues. “It is sought-after

paid at auction for vintage (ie, “pre-owned”) watches are breaking all

today,” Boutros claims, and another reason, besides its good looks is

records. Six figures, seven, even

“it’s recognizable. That’s key to its appeal.” And it’s the key to any status

eight are not uncommon. Buying a

symbol: a design so distinctive it can be instantly identified.

new watch as a money-maker to

Another ongoing classic that could make a good investment, Bou-

sell later is becoming as good an

tros maintains, is “Audemars Piguet’s latest reference of their Royal Oak,

investment as snapping up a

15202, and their Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak model.” These updates

Lamborghini Miura, Birkin bag or

of “original watches from 1970s remain highly relevant in terms of style

πpair of Air Jordans.

and the case shape.” The first Royal Oak shook up the industry with its

Paul Boutros

“It’s a good time to buy a

unique, signature octagonal bevel anchored with 8 hexagonal screws,

great watch,” says Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, for Phillips,

and the novel grid pattern on its dial. “Its masculine aesthetic has stood

arguably the global leader in watch auctions. “In times of uncertainty

the test of time; demand for these modern

people look for safe havens for their money. Right now conditions are

versions in boutiques proves that.” It’s a

favorable for putting money into hard assets as a hedge.” And, like gold,

track record that bodes well for the watch

one of the best hedges right now is a new watch.

maintaining if not increasing its value in the

But not just any watch. Knowing which one to purchase now that might reap a huge reward if eventually sold is a tricky business. The

future. Boutros also thinks no one can go

heads of the watch departments at the world’s top auction houses are

wrong buying a stainless steel Rolex.

the likeliest to know, because their job is to evaluate, accept, and then

“They are relevant for today’s lifestyle, as

sell watches that one day were brand new, and have, over time, become

more people are dressing casual, whether on

more valuable. These experts have the most informed advice on the

Zoom meetings or even at the office with busi-

best new watches to buy right now.

ness casual. Rolex’s Submariner, GT Master, and Daytona are graceful

When buying a new timepiece Boutros advises that “blue chip watches may be good investments” and suggest buyers “look for classic, timeless styles from proven brands. They have enduring

Rolex GMT-Master II

evolutions true to the originals that have been produced continually to today.” They have proven to hold their appeal, and their value. Another big fan of Rolex sports models is Richard Lopez, senior

value.” And that’s especially true if they have been given exciting new

specialist of watches at Sotheby’s in New York. “They continue to be

up-to-the-minute twists.

popular among seasoned collectors as well as new collectors just get14 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner

Patek Philippe Calatrava

15 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

ting into the watch game.” Meaning, if

that Patek used for this model is intended to resemble handwritten char-

you buy one now, you’ll likely find a col-

acters, something that has not really been seen before.”

lector who will want to buy it from you in

Richard Lopez

He singles out some other brands as well to invest in, zeroing in on

the future. Examples that Lopez be-

“specific models that have the potential to hold

lieves will hold or up their value include

or even grow in value.” From Tudor he rec-

“the Steel Green Submariner ‘Hulk’, the

ommends “the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight

Steel Ceramic Daytona Ref. 116500LN, Steel GMT Ceramic "Pepsi"

Navy Blue that was recently introduced

126710 BLRO, and the Steel GMT Ceramic "Batman" 126710BLNR.”

could also be a good contender. Collectors

Steel models from other watch houses are good investments too,

love blue dials, in my experience, and this

Lope z maintains. “Steel models by Patek Philippe and Audemars Pi-

could be a long-term winner – even the origi-

guet are extremely sought after and rare, yielding the highest returns. Ex-

nal black-dialed Fifty-Eight is still a good po-

amples of current Patek Philippe models to invest in include the Steel Aquanaut Ref.

Patek Philippe Aquanaut

tential variant.”

Tudor Black Bay 58

When buying a new watch with its long-

5167, Steel Nautilus Ref. 5711, and Steel

term investment value in mind, Rebecca Ross, Christie’s watch special-

Calatrava Ref. 5522. Audemars Piguet

ist in New York, says “rarity is a big factor. If there are fewer of the

examples include the Steel Royal Oak on

watches made, the watch will keep its resale value.” She singles out “the

bracelet and Steel Royal Oak Chrono on

independent watchmaker F.P. Journe which makes less than 900

bracelet.”

watches per year, which compared to other brands is very low. F.P.

Brandon Frazin, plays the same role at

Journe is also having a significant moment right now with a number of

the influential watch website Hodinkee as

his older watches, so I would not be surprised if some current models

do the pros at the auction houses; he is the

from the brand go up in the future.”

vintage manager and must decide which

Ross also says “look for watches that

watches to accept for sale, and he knows which watches sell well. Fra-

are not run of the mill productions, that

zin is another believer that sports watches are good investments these

have details others do not.” And keep all

days. As more people are working from home, a business suit and tie

paperwork at the point of purchase. “All

are becoming things of the past.

modern watches should have their doc-

Within the sports watch category, Frazin put his faith in Rolex. He

umentation, so make sure you keep the

advises new purchasers to “consider

Rebecca Ross

the models most everyone is aware of,

increases the value of the watch down the line when it’s sold.

including sport models like the Day-

boxes and papers.” Documentation

More good advice, from Ross: “Look after the watch you buy.

tona, the GMT-Master II, the Subma-

Service it regularly, every 3 to 5 years, and change nothing. You want

riner, and the Sea-Dweller.”

all the parts, the case, the dial and the movement to be as original as

And he believes in another blue chip

possible.” Also, she points out that before purchasing any new watch,

Brandon Frazin

industry leader, Patek Philippe. “Look

especially if it’s hoped it will be a good investment, it’s important to

for sport watches from other prestigious Swiss brands like Patek Phi-

educate yourself. “Come to auctions, take a seat and read the cata-

lippe, with the Nautilus and Aquanaut,” he advises. “And the Patek Phi-

logues. That’s a great way to learn about the market, and it’s a lot of

lippe Calatrava ref. 5212. It's an interesting design that is cased in steel

fun. You’re always welcome.”

and features a unique complication: the weekly calendar. The typeface

And she advises, as do all the pros: buy what you love.

16 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

The

most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction

The most expensive watch ever sold at auction was the

for wristwatches at regular auctions,

$31 million paid for the one-off Patek Philippe Grandmaster

which have reached incredible highs as

Chime sold at the 2019 Christie’s-run Only Watch auction

well. The top prices ever paid for watches

in Geneva. That was a charity event, and prices are

sold at auction should inspire any watch

always unusually high in the name of doing good.

lover to buy a new one with the potential

The prices that interest most collectors are those paid

to sell it later, and retire.

$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500

Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, $17,752,500, Phillips New York 2017 Arguably, the most famous timepiece in the world.

Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, $9,008,856, Christie's Hong Kong 2019 One of only seven 2523 dualcrown world time wristwatches believed to have been issues in pink gold. and only the fifth to be offered at auction.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6265 “The Unicorn”, 5,937,500, Phillips Geneva 20 being the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.

$5,708,885

Patek Philippe 18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, $5,708,885, Christies Geneva 2010. Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.

$11,002,000

Patek Philippe ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, CHF 11,002,000, Phillips Geneva 2016. It's the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions. 17 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Royal

WATCH Lorem ipsom dolor sit amet ad

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volutpat. Etiam urna purus, viverra ac turpis ut, cursus lobortis sapien. Cras non consectetur nunc, non faucibus mauris. Nulla facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volutpat. Etiam urna purus, viverra ac turpis ut, cursus lobortis sapien. Cras non consectetur nunc, non faucibus mauris. Nulla facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urnasan nibh vel ligula aliquet volutpat. Etiam urna purus, viverra ac turpis ut, cursus lobortis sapien. Cras non consectetur nunc, non faucibus mauris. Nulla facilisi. Vestibulum sodales porttitor urna Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volutpat. Etiam urna 18 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur adipiscing elit. Donec non leo vel turpis eleifend posuere vel quis urna. Mauris accumsan nibh vel ligula aliquet volutpat. Etiam urna purus,

Designer

SPOT LIGHT

Classics from ROBERTO COIN

The story that the Venetian Princess collection tells is a majestic fairy tale that has been passed along in the narrow alleyways of Venice, illuminated only by the reflection of lanterns on the water. All of the pieces in the collection preserve this secret tale.

20 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

ROYAL PRINCESS FLOWER COLLECTION

TIMELESS

STYLE The Tudor Black Bay 58 is the ultimate dive watch

22 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

Tudor dive watches have a heritage that the celebrated Swiss watch company continues to honor and elevate to this day

DIVE WATCHES ARE SOME

more comfortable, wear-all-day

of the most popular watches

fit for many wrists.

sold today, most often to

Another feature of the Tudor

customers who will never

Black Bay 58 Navy Blue does

wear them with a wetsuit.

double duty as well; its strap

But the watch’s combination

also offers retro appeal and

of handsome good looks,

wear-today comfort. There are

durable design and extreme-

three options: One is a riveted

ly accurate movement

steel bracelet, with removable

appeals to everyone. And in

links that allow for a personal-

the category of dive watch-

ized fit. Another is a leather

es, Tudor is one of the lead-

strap, made from a material so

ers — always was, always

soft it’s been said to feel like

will be.

flannel. And the choice that’s a Tudor signature is a fabric

Tudor dive watches have a heritage that the celebrat-

Black Bay Dark

strap made in the St. Ètienne

ed Swiss watch company continues to honor and elevate to this day

region of France by a century-old family business using traditional

with new renditions that respect their illustrious past but bring them

jacquard shuttle looms. In Tudor blue, of course.

up to the minute. The latest version, introduced this year, is the

The new watch features other Tudor signatures, such as

Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue. The first Black Bay 58 was intro-

“snowflake” hands with angular tips and a distinctive large winding

duced at Baselworld in 2018; the big news in today’s rendition is the

crown. But there’s big news, too: a brand-new movement. The cali-

color. The blue. But not just any blue. Tudor blue.

bre MT5402 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official

Tudor introduced its first dive watch, waterproofed to 200 meters,

Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and was made in-house, as

or 660 feet, in 1958 (hence the homage in the name of the current

all Tudor movements have been since the company started making

model). Some 10 years later, the company gave it a blue dial and

their own in 2015.

bezel. The French Navy loved the result, and throughout the 1970s la Marine Française commissioned their dive watches in what came to

The Black Bay has become so popular that in recent years Tudor has introduced several versions of it: The Black Bay Dark features a steel case finished with black PVD-

be known as Tudor blue. Today’s watch pays its respects to Tudor’s renowned past in other ways as well. The case measures 39 mm in diameter, the scale used in the 1950s. This move is making critics and customers happy because the new sizing delivers a handsome vintage look and is a

treated coating, adapted from technology developed by NASA for space programs. The Black Bay 32, 36 and 41 offer a choice of dials — lacquered black, deep blue or satin-brushed champagne.

23 ABC JEWELERS MAGAZINE

The Black Bay has proven to be so popular in recent years that Tudor has launched several versions of it. The Black Bay Bronze features a 43 mm case in bronze, recalling the brass used in old ships and diving equipment. The Black Bay GMT, with its luminescent hour markers set against a black dial, clocks local time as well as that in two other time zones.

which Tudor had been supplying with dive watches since the late 1950s. The project was so hush-hush it had a code name: Commando. There’s a Tudor Black Bay for everyone. As the reviews are coming in, the latest launch in this long line of options, the Black

The Black Bay P01, which stands for prototype 1, is modeled

Bay Fifty Eight Navy Blue, just might turn out to become its

on a 1967 project to develop a new watch for the US Navy,