ROLEX ASSOCIATE LAUREATE TOPHER WHITE
THE NEW TUDOR BLACK BAY 58
RAINFOREST GUARDIAN p. 12
TIMELESS STYLE p. 20
THE ENDURING ALLURE OF VERDURA
YOUR JEWELRY DREAMS COME TRUE
BUILT BY SOCIETY’S JEWELER BETTERIDGE p. 26 p. 24
A FEW OF OUR FAVORITES
2021 GIFT GUIDE p. 32
T H I S
I S
Now & Forever I've been told over and over again that when you walk into one of our stores, you feel like you've gone back in time. Fine old mahogany casework — maybe that's part of it. However, underneath that, there is something else solid and lasting. I can remember playing under the cases when I was little; now my son talks about how he remembers doing the same. This place is home. A respect for history has helped shape the principles by which we run our business. I only want to sell products that will be cherished for a lifetime, perhaps even over the course of generations. I love recommending the jewelry we make, particularly our engagement rings, because I know every step that has gone into an item's creation: I've seen the platinum melted, hammered out on an anvil and welded by one of our jewelers. It gives me peace of mind to know everything we make is as good as it possibly can be. We expect the same level of quality from all our retail partners, from the smallest jewelry designer to the largest watch manufacturer. Utmost quality with true intrinsic value will withstand the vagaries of fashion trends and always be in style. These are bedrock values on which Betteridge was founded over a hundred years ago, and they remain the values we live by today. I look forward to welcoming you to one of our stores in the future.
Terry Betteridge Chief Executive Officer
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B E T T E R I D G E
M A G A Z I N E
2021
CONTENTS FEATURES
12
RAINFOREST GUARDIAN
Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time.
ROLEX ASSOCIATE LAUREATE TOPHER WHITE
RAINFOREST GUARDIAN p. 12
THE NEW TUDOR BLACK BAY 58
TIMELESS STYLE p. 20
THE ENDURING ALLURE OF VERDURA
SOCIETY’S JEWELER p. 24
YOUR JEWELRY DREAMS COME TRUE
BUILT BY BETTERIDGE p. 26
A FEW OF OUR FAVORITES
2021 GIFT GUIDE p. 32
ON OUR COVER
16
This dazzling trio of sapphire and diamond rings is from the Built by Betteridge Collection. Read more about our custom designs and in-house artisans on page 26.
A SMART INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY— A SWISS TIMEPIECE
Four noted watch experts weigh in on what to buy now.
COLUMNS 15
20
ICONIC ELEGANCE
TIMELESS STYLE
Introducing the Tudor Black Bay 58 — the ultimate dive watch.
The Rolex LadyDateJust is a classic for a reason.
19
THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul New-
24
man’s $17,752,500 Daytona and more.
SOCIETY’S JEWELER
36
A CLASSIC GETS A MODERN TWIST
The enduring allure of Verdura.
The next generation of Buccellati.
26
40
DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT Paul Morelli melds gold, diamonds and
BUILT BY BETTERIDGE
Let us bring your jewelry dreams to life.
gemstones that seem to float on air.
32
BETTERIDGE GIFT GUIDE
The BETTERIDGE team’s personal picks for the jewelry and watch lovers on your list.
8 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
luna rossa ac75 america’s cup class foiling monohull
apply to the new panerai pam.guard program to benefit up to 8 years of international limited warranty register your timepiece on panerai.com
Rainforest
GUARDIAN Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time
Topher White hoisting himself into the treetops. 12 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
A LOT OF WORLD-FAMOUS ENTREPRENEURS STARTED THEIR COMPANIES IN A garage. That includes the founders of Amazon, Apple and Google — and Topher White, the founder of Rainforest Connection. His idea for repurposing used cellphones to create a surveillance system of listening devices that can report illegal logging in the world's most vulnerable rain forests started in his parents' garage in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood of San Francisco. For more than four decades, Rolex has supported exceptional individuals like White, who have the spirit of enterprise, initiating extraordinary projects that help make the world a better place. The first Rolex Awards were presented in 1976 to commemorate the anniversary of the iconic Rolex Oyster Watch. And in the decades since, an impressive roster of laureates — whose passions and projects reflect the concerns of the times — have been chosen from around the globe. Over the last six years, use of White's monitoring devices
Topher White
has expanded well beyond his garage to remote rainforests throughout the world. It also earned him a coveted Rolex Award for Enterprise. Every second of the day, approximately two and a half acres of tropical forests are destroyed or drastically degraded, according to the INCUR (International Union for Conservation of Nature), threatening the survival of many species. Illegal logging is the biggest contributor to deforestation, which in turn contributes to climate change. With the world’s rainforests now shrinking so fast that they may be gone by 2100, the need for ways to prevent illegal logging and monitor forest wildlife is urgent. White's system, in which he rigs a cellphone to stay charged by solar cells was designed to do just that. “One of the most amazing things is that we’re using old technology, the stuff no one’s excited about, to do really cutting-edge science and conservation around the world,” White explains. “We take an old cellphone – the ones everyone
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A smart investment opportunity
Swiss Timepieces Four noted fine watch experts share their opinions on what to buy now RIGHT NOW, BUYING A NEW WATCH COULD BE ONE OF THE
1976, with the rounded octagonal bezel, brought a certain elegance to
smartest investments around. It’s a purchase that can be worn, enjoyed
the sport watch category that continues. “It is sought-after today,” Bou-
and even sold — eventually — at a nice profit. The prices paid at auction
tros contends. Another reason, besides its good looks: “It’s recogniza-
for vintage (ie, “pre-owned”) watches are breaking all records. Six figures,
ble. That’s key to its appeal.” And it’s the key to any status symbol: a
seven figures, even eight (as in $10 million and up) are not uncommon.
Paul Boutros
design so distinctive it can be instantly identified. Another classic that could make a good investment, Boutros main-
Buying a new watch as a money-
tains, is “Audemars Piguet’s latest reference of their Royal Oak, 15202,
maker to sell later is becoming as
and their Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak model.” These updates of “origi-
smart an investment as snapping
nal watches from the 1970s remain highly relevant in terms of style and
up a Lamborghini Miura, a Birkin
the case shape.” The first Royal Oak shook up the industry with its
bag or a pair of Air Jordans.
unique, signature octagonal bevel anchored with eight hexagonal
“It’s a good time to buy a
screws, and the novel grid pattern on its dial. “Its masculine aesthetic
great watch,” says Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, for Phillips,
has stood the test of time; demand for these modern versions in bou-
arguably the global leader in watch auctions. “In times of uncertainty,
tiques proves that,” Boutros says. It’s a track
people look for safe havens for their money. Right now conditions are
record that bodes well for the watch’s
favorable for putting money into hard assets as a hedge.” And a new
maintaining if not increasing its value in
watch, just like gold, is one of the best hedges right now.
the future.
But not just any watch. Knowing which one to purchase now —
Boutros also thinks no one can go
one that might reap a huge reward if eventually sold — is a tricky busi-
wrong buying a stainless steel Rolex.
ness. Not only do Betteridge’s watch experts have the most informed
“They are relevant for today’s lifestyle, as
advice on the best new timepieces to buy right now, we also spoke to
more people are dressing casual, whether
the heads of the watch departments at the world’s top auction houses
on Zoom meetings or even at the office with
for their opinions. It Is their job to evaluate, accept and then sell watches
business casual,” he says. “ Rolex’s Subma-
that were once brand-new, and have, over time, become more valuable.
riner, GMT-Master II and Daytona are graceful
When buying a new timepiece, Boutros advises that “blue chip watches may be good investments” and suggests buyers “look for classic, timeless styles from proven brands — they have enduring
Rolex GMT-Master II
evolutions true to the originals that have been produced continually to today.” They have proven to hold their appeal, and their value. Win Betteridge, a timepiece specialist at Betteridge in Green-
value.” That’s especially true if they have been given exciting new up-
wich, CT, is another big fan of Rolex sports watches. “Although I
to-the-minute twists.
would caution anyone against buying a watch strictly for investment
Case in point: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Its original design, from
purposes (the ultimate dividend from owning a fine timepiece is wearing
16 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner
Patek Philippe Calatrava
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The
5
most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction
The most expensive watch that ever changed hands at
collectors are those paid for watches at
auction was the one-off Patek Phillippe Grandmaster
regular auctions, and they’ve reached in-
Chime sold last year in Geneva for $31 million. The occa-
credible highs as well. The top prices
sion was the 2019 Only Watch auction, a charity event
ever paid for these timepieces should in-
run by Christies. Prices are always unusually high in the name of doing good. The prices that interest most
spire any enthusiast to buy a new one with the potential to sell later — and retire.
$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500
Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, Phillips, New York 2017. Arguably the most famous timepiece in the world.
Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, Christie's, Hong Kong 2019. One of only seven Ref. 2523 dual-crown world-time wristwatches believed to have been issued in pink gold — and only the fifth to be offered at auction.
The Unicorn: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 6265 Phillips, Geneva 2018. Called the Unicorn because of its rarity, it is the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.
$5,708,885
Patek Philippe18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, Christies, Geneva 2010. Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.
$11,002,000
Patek Philippe Ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, Phillips, Geneva 2016. It is the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions.
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TIMELESS
STYLE The Tudor Black Bay 58 is the ultimate dive watch
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Tudor dive watches have a heritage that the celebrated Swiss watch company continues to honor and elevate to this day DIVE WATCHES ARE SOME
more comfortable, wear-all-day
of the most popular watches
fit for many wrists.
sold today, most often to
Another feature of the Tudor
customers who will never
Black Bay 58 Navy Blue does
wear them with a wetsuit.
double duty as well; its strap
But the watch’s combination
also offers retro appeal and
of handsome good looks,
wear-today comfort. There are
durable design and extreme-
three options: One is a riveted
ly accurate movement
steel bracelet, with removable
appeals to everyone. And in
links that allow for a personal-
the category of dive watch-
ized fit. Another is a leather
es, Tudor is one of the lead-
strap, made from a material so
ers — always was, always
soft it’s been said to feel like
will be.
flannel. And the choice that’s a Tudor signature is a fabric
Tudor dive watches have a heritage that the celebrat-
Black Bay Dark
strap made in the St. Ètienne
ed Swiss watch company continues to honor and elevate to this day
region of France by a century-old family business using traditional
with new renditions that respect their illustrious past but bring them
jacquard shuttle looms. In Tudor blue, of course.
up to the minute. The latest version, introduced this year, is the
The new watch features other Tudor signatures, such as
Tudor Black Bay 58 Navy Blue. The first Black Bay 58 was intro-
“snowflake” hands with angular tips and a distinctive large winding
duced at Baselworld in 2018; the big news in today’s rendition is the
crown. But there’s big news, too: a brand-new movement. The cali-
color. The blue. But not just any blue. Tudor blue.
bre MT5402 is certified as a chronometer by the Swiss Official
Tudor introduced its first dive watch, waterproofed to 200 meters,
Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), and was made in-house, as
or 660 feet, in 1958 (hence the homage in the name of the current
all Tudor movements have been since the company started making
model). Some 10 years later, the company gave it a blue dial and
their own in 2015.
bezel. The French Navy loved the result, and throughout the 1970s la Marine Française commissioned their dive watches in what came to
The Black Bay has become so popular that in recent years Tudor has introduced several versions of it: The Black Bay Dark features a steel case finished with black PVD-
be known as Tudor blue. Today’s watch pays its respects to Tudor’s renowned past in other ways as well. The case measures 39 mm in diameter, the scale used in the 1950s. This move is making critics and customers happy because the new sizing delivers a handsome vintage look and is a
treated coating, adapted from technology developed by NASA for space programs. The Black Bay 32, 36 and 41 offer a choice of dials — lacquered black, deep blue or satin-brushed champagne.
21 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
The Black Bay has proven to be so popular in recent years that Tudor has launched several versions of it. The Black Bay Bronze features a 43 mm case in bronze, recalling the brass used in old ships and diving equipment.
which Tudor had been supplying with dive watches since the late 1950s. The project was so hush-hush it had a code name:
The Black Bay GMT, with its luminescent hour markers set against a black dial, clocks local time as well as that in two other time zones.
Commando. There’s a Tudor Black Bay for everyone. As the reviews are coming in, the latest introduction in this long line of options, the
The Black Bay P01, which stands for prototype 1, is modeled on
Black Bay Fifty Eight Navy Blue, just may turn out to become its
a 1967 project to develop a new watch for the United States Navy,
most popular.
Black Bay 32, 36 and 41
Black Bay Bronze
Black Bay GMT
Black Bay P01 22 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
In the 1930's, the famed fashion editor Diana Vreeland, a devoted Chanel client, acquired two of Verdura’s earliest and most renowned jewels – the "Theodora" and "Ravenna" brooches. For Coco Chanel, Verdura translated this style into a pair of Maltese cross cuffs which came to define the era and have become a Verdura trademark.
Society's
JEWELER The enduring allure of Verdura IF THE GOAL OF EVERY GREAT JEWELRY DESIGNER IS TO create the next icon, Duke Fulco di Verdura would be pleased. His trademark pieces have been coveted for nearly a century. Although Fulco, as he was known to his famous friends and clients, including Coco Chanel, Cole Porter and Vincent Astor, died in 1979, the archives of his 81-year-old company are still there, providing constant inspiration to its current owners, Ward Landrigan, the CEO, and his son, Nico, the company's president. Together, the Landrigans continue to build on Duke Fulco di Verdura’s legacy, combing the rich archives of nearly 10,000 original sketches, of which less than half have ever been realized. Their mission: To create bold and timeless jewelry that speaks to a new generation. In other words — the next icons. Today, Verdura’s fine jewelry is available at Betteridge. Here are just some of the pieces we carry. See who wore them first! 24 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
Based on the original cuff links that Verdura created in 1939 as a tribute to his friend Cole Porter, the composer, the "Night and Day" design is one of the jeweler's most beloved creations. Shown is the gold, enamel and diamond Night and Day rings.
In 1938, Verdura landed in Hollywood, designing pieces for Joan Crawford, Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo, who was regularly photographed wearing his Curb-Link bracelet and matching watch. She continued to wear them throughout her life.
In the 40's, he created his fanciful target earrings, favored by glamorous socialites of the day, Millicent Rogers and Dorothy Paley.
In 1944 he designed the double-crescent bracelet, made famous by Marjorie Merriweather Post and later by Diana, Princess of Wales.
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Built by
BETTERIDGE
Let us bring your jewelry dreams to life Betteridge is renowned for offering the best designs by the most fabled jewelers. It’s an open secret, however, that many of the brand's most desired pieces are its own, in-house creations. We've been making custom jewelry, using local artisans and craftsmen ever since the company was founded in the early twentieth century. In addition to our own designs, our in-house jewelry-making artisans can help bring to life any vision or idea you would like to create. From unique and utterly extraordinary engagement rings to magnificent gemstone necklaces and earrings, nothing is too complex or unusual for our workshops. We also specialize in reinvention projects, including resetting gemstones into different settings or reconfiguring an existing piece of jewelry to create something entirely new. Here and on the next two pages, let us take you through some of our favorite pieces.
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Engagement “We like to build rings to survive the demands of a most marvelous marriage which we think is a romantic notion.� Terry Betteridge
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Clusters “The brilliance you see when individual diamonds interact with one another can be far more beautiful than a single stone.� Win Betteridge
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Raymond C. Yard Best known for taking Art Deco jewelry designs to new and brilliant heights, Raymond C. Yard pieces are still made and sold exclusively through Betteridge.
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Rolex Submariner “Rolex makes the most durable and reliable watches on the planet. It’s no wonder that Chuck Yeager wore a Rolex when he broke the sound barrier in the 1940s. Or that Sir Edmund Hillary wore one while crossing Antarctica in the 1950s. Or that James Cameron wore a Rolex Deepsea on his recent, record-breaking dive to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. Rolex watches have been to the bottom of the ocean and to the top of Everest. Despite all their accomplishments, Rolex is never satisfied. Their lab does everything to improve these watches to make each year better than the last.”
Gift GUIDE
- Terry Betteridge
Looking for something shiny and new for all those special someones on your list? We're here to help with ideas for perfect presents you can pick up all in one place. Or, because you've been so extra good this year, why not be good to yourself with a dazzling new addition to your jewelry box? We can help with that too!
Diamond Eternity Rings
Multi-color Sapphire Bracelet “One-of-a-kind estate jewelry so often combines great artistry, natural and rare gemstones, and sometimes an interesting history too. This bracelet is the perfect example. Set with 242 carats of natural fancy colored sapphires, it was created by a Belgian prince who designed and manufactured jewelry in Switzerland and Austria. Originally purchased in Europe and discovered in an estate sale in the U.S. decades later, it is an absolutely fabulous rainbow of natural sapphires in every color imaginable — with a colorful provenance to match.”
- Inez Fogel Heery
Betteridge Astra Collection “My gift idea from Betteridge is our very own diamond cluster earrings from the Astra collection which I wear proudly everyday. So stunning and unique, it’s a beautiful classic piece. Available in five sizes, the collection also includes a pendant and a station necklace.”
- Lauren Yoon
“The eternity band is a continuous row of identically cut gemstones that symbolize never ending love, perfect for that special day and all the celebrations along the way. It can be the perfect wedding or anniversary ring. Or have some fun and stack a few on your right hand and create your own versatile custom look. Choose different shape diamonds or add a splash of color; many are available with sapphires, rubies or emeralds. For a very special — and simply stunning — right-hand ring for any occasion I recommend an eternity band with larger diamonds, which takes on a much different look. You can really see so many wonderful details — the outline of each diamond matching perfectly down the line, the color of each stone seamlessly flowing into the next, individual facets large enough to see performing their magical light show. Beyond round, there are many diamond shapes including oval-, radiant-, asscher- and emerald-cuts, each with a different personality. Diamond sizes in our rings range from .50 ct to 2.0 carats and all are wonderful quality stones. We also offer a special few rings with all D-color (the highest diamond grade) stones. These rings are simple elegance at its finest! No matter what size stones you choose, eternity rings are exceptionally romantic, fashionable and wearable — always the perfect way to show your love.”
- John Velky
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “The Lange 1 Time Zone is the perfect timepiece for modern globetrotters who work and communicate with partners around the world. With a simple touch of a button, the city ring surrounding the dial jumps from west to east by one time zone advancing the time from London to Hong Kong and back home again. A collector's favorite for over fifteen years, the Lange Time Zone was just re-introduced with a newly developed movement and dial."
- Win Betteridge 32 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
©Verdura. All rights reserved.
The Sunburst Cuff
The Theodora Cuff
The Maltese Cross “Midas” Bracelet
The Maltese Cross Bracelet
The Maltese Cross Stone Cuff
Tiffany & Co. Late-19th Century Fleur-de-Lis Pendant Brooch “Sometimes you have a connection with a piece of jewelry that is beyond just the aesthetic. This particular piece does that for me. Those of you who know me may recall my early days in the business was as a diamond buyer for Tiffany & Co. This piece was crafted by Tiffany circa 1890. The diamonds are all old-mine-style cut (over 4 cts), stones. It is a fleur-de-lis-style, and I am of French descent. The piece is also versatile. It was made with a removable bail to wear as a pendant or a removable pin frame to wear as a brooch. The final connection is
DAVIDOR L’Arc de DAVIDOR Bracelet & Bead Pendant “What I love about DAVIDOR is the ability to wear their L’Arc de DAVIDOR collection from day to night, dressed up or dressed down. The pieces are exceptionally crafted in 18K gold with lacquered ceramic and diamonds, mixing fine jewelry design with playful colors. I never take off my L’Arc de DAVIDOR bead pendant in 18K white gold with hortensia-colored lacquered ceramic and 'Palais' diamonds.”
the provenance. This was owned by an old Greenwich family, and the first friend I ever made here in town was their daughter! I remember many hours chatting at their beautiful waterfront home. All in all, this does it for me.”
- Denise Calvin
- Randy Lapointe Silvia Furmanovich Butterfly Clutch “To me this Butterfly clutch by Silvia Furmanovich is the best of all worlds: the embodiment of personal adornment, personal use and beautiful art all in one amazing piece. I’d never put it away, but set it out for all to see and admire as the “Objet d’Art” it is! For that matter, that is what I would do with any of her handbags. They’re all exquisite hand-size sculptures.”
- Vanessa Henry Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Panerai Submersible Carbotech™ – 47mm “Nothing brings out the inner Navy SEAL like the proper timepiece. Engineered for just such an occupation, Panerai infuses their Italian military DNA into each Submersible timepiece. Highly legible (even in the dark), water-resistant and tough as nails, Panerai will bring you that much closer to a successful mission, even if it’s only a grocery run.”
- Rob Shay
“A fine watch is an extension of your personality, and Patek's new Twenty-4 is intended for strong, active women. As comfortable and reliable as watches come, it blends femininity and elegance — the perfect companion to take you from the office to formal events. Patek's steel Twenty-4 manchette quartz watch comes in two variations: always stylish slate gray and my personal favorite, blue sunburst."
- Natalie Betteridge Round Brilliant Diamond Studs “I have friends and customers who wear our diamond stud earrings like a uniform, seven days a week. Whether you’re gifting a loved one with that first special pair or ‘trading-up’ to a larger size, there’s no better way to make someone feel special than with diamonds. Since all pairs are selected by our diamond experts and then handcrafted in platinum, you are assured of the ultimate in beauty and value. If she does not have a great pair of diamond studs, it’s an easy home run.”
- Warren Lagerloef Norman Silverman Marquise & Pear Diamond Ring “Despite my love of all things colorful and quirky, this diamond band won me over immediately. Three rows of marquise and pear-shaped diamonds are set almost invisibly together along the visible portion of the band, giving the ring a massive amount of sparkle and a very punchy presence. Crafted with a very low profile, making it both comfortable and wearable, this ring is truly a winner. If the thought of a classic eternity band bores you to tears, or you just like your diamonds with a little more flair than the average woman, this ring should be at the top of your wish list.”
- Brooke Betteridge 34 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
Combining the unexpected with the respected. Traditional techniques, gold and gemstones meet vintage bakelite and other remarkable materials.
A Classic Gets a
Modern Twist The next generation of Buccellati WHEN JEWELRY MAKING IS IN YOUR DNA, WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO BUT join the family business? That makes Lucrezia Buccellati the fourth generation of her family to follow in the footsteps of her great-grandfather Mario, who founded the company over 100 years ago. She's also the first woman to hold an artistic leadership role in the company as the co-creative director alongside her father, Andrea, who heads the business as honorary president. As a busy working woman and mother of two, Buccellati designs for jewelry lovers just like her, Lucrezia Buccellati
which means everyday wearability is key. That
may seem like a departure from the brand's revered ornate style, but some things will never change. Everything is still handmade in Italy by artisans using techniques that date back to the Renaissance, and Buccellati's fresh vision for the brand is the perfect complement to her father's more traditional aesthetic. Recently the company introduced some colorful additions to its Macri and Hawaii collections that fuse the old and the new, the contemporary and classic. The new Hawaii earrings with jade and lapis stones look so modern, but the originals, made by hand-twisting tiny gold threads, were actually designed by Buccellati's great-grandfather in the 1930s. And the stacking Macri bracelets and pendants may be simpler, looser than the classic Buccellati style, but the meticulous workmanship still retains the brand's identity. It looks like the next generation of Buccellati is in the right hands.
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ROMAN BAROCCO COLLECTION
Designer
SPOTLIGHT Melding gold, diamonds and gemstones that seem to float on air HIS STUDIO, IN THE HEART OF PHILADELPHIA, IS AS CLOSE TO a fine Old World jewelry house as a contemporary American designer can get. Hooked by the call of diamonds and gemstones from the time he first played with the treasures in his mother's jewelry box, Paul Morelli grew up in the arts world. His father was a prominent theater and opera costume dePaul Morelli
signer. After college, he followed in
his father's footsteps, but instead of fabric his preferred media were gold, diamonds and gemstones. He would take his creations to crafts fairs, where many of today's most famous designers got their start. Today, he works from his father's old studio, where he produces all of his jewelry on site. It's a family operation. Like all artists, his is an ever-evolving body of work. "I love anything unusual. I am intrigued by things I have never seen before," he told The Philadelphia Inquirer. Still, one hallmark of a Morelli piece is its profound attention to detail and delicacy. He is a master of working with thin strands of white and yellow gold wire and stationing the diamonds strategically as if they were floating on air; a design feat that would make any European master envious. 40 BETTERIDGE MAGAZINE
IWC PORTUGIESER. ENGINEERED FOR NAVIGATORS.
Portugieser Chronograph. Ref. 3716:
second scale imbue this timelessly elegant watch
T he Por tugie ser’s functional de sign took its
with a distinctive, sporty flair. This design classic
inspiration from the nautical deck watches once
is now powered by the IWC-manufactured 69355
u s e d o n s h i p s to a s s i s t m a r i n e n av i g ati o n.
calibre, which is visible through a transparent
The Por tugieser Chronograph, with its clean,
back cover. And with a precision instrument like
eminently legible dial, is a direct reminder of
this on your wrist, you can be sure of navigating
this heritage. At the same time, the two recessed
your way through life with stylish understatement.
subdials and the flange with its printed quarter-
IWC . ENGINEERING DRE AMS . SINCE 1868 .
IWC Schaffhausen, Switzerland
R E G I S T E R TO E X T E N D YO U R I N T E R N ATI O N A L L I M IT E D WA R R A N T Y F R O M 2 TO 8 Y E A R S R E G I S T E R O N IWC .CO M/M Y I WC
IWC-manufactured chronograph movement 69355 calibre · Self-winding · 46-hour power reserve · Stopwatch function with minutes and seconds · Small hacking seconds · Sapphire glass · See-through sapphire-glass back · Water-resistant 3 bar · Diameter 41 mm