Animal Ringdom

Animals have never been extinct in jewelry design. During the 20th century brooches dominated. Now animal rings are climbing to the top of the category.

The award-winning designer Lauren Harwell Godfrey’s claw ring in her Harwell Godfrey collection of creatures features such décor flourishes as her signature triangular shapes, a symbol of empowerment. On the teeth of the claw, she set diamonds upside down so the pointy culets on the bottom of the stone would add texture.

Arman Sarkisyan brings his dreamy gold, oxidized silver and gem set jewelry to life using age old techniques. All manner of romantic motifs decorate the designs, including birds — their symbolic meaning inspires the designer. Doves are a powerful emblem of peace, and the Peace on Earth ring, illustrates the bird carrying its hopeful message around the globe,” explains Arman. “The Mother and Child Ring is an example of the dove’s other meaning, love, showing the deep familial bond between mother and offspring.” The symbolism creates the type of layered meaning that has added to the allure of animal jewelry for centuries.

Renna Taher’s Renna gold jewelry collection began with the coffee bean shell motif to which she has added other aquatic-inspired designs including octopus rings. “Octopi are just so innately elegant in their curves and lines”, explains Renna. The reverse hand-carved crystal designs featuring the octopus are backed with grey mother-of-pearl. When light passes through the gems it almost appears to animate the octopus on the start of a swim.

by marion fasel