Ocean Avenue & Lincoln at the Pine Inn Carmel, California 93921
(831) 624-4684
T H E
M A G A Z I N E
b y
F O U R TA N É
CONTENTS
VOL1, NO. 1
FEATURES ¸
12
REACHING THE TOP
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16
ON OUR COVER
FINAL COPY TO COME
Fourtane Jewelers is the reas only authorized Rolex and Patek Philippe Jeweler.
GAMECHANGERS
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COLUMNS
20
24
TIME AND AGAIN
IN A LEAGUE OF ITS OWN
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26
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MAN OF THE HOUR
29
We talk to Ross Povey – one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts in Tudor watches .
THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul Newman’s
$17,752,500 Daytona and more.
34
BUY SOMETHING YOU WILL LOVE FOREVER Some things never go out of style, which is just what you should expect in a piece of fine jewelry.
40
WATCHSPEAK
Uncomplicating the world of fine timepiece complication
42
TWO UNIQUE VACATION GETAWAYS
.
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8 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
T H E
M A G A Z I N E
b y
F O U R TA N É
Welcome to this year’s edition of the Fourtané Magazine. If you
discussed on page 23. Also, check out the five most expensive
love watches as much as we do, just reading about them can be
watches ever sold at auction on page 27 .
the next best thing to strapping on a prized timepiece. We are
No matter what's on your wrist, if you are like us, the whole
coming out of the challenging — and terribly abnormal — Covid
notion of time has probably changed for you over the last year
era. During this time, we’ve found that wearing a fine watch helps
and a half. There is nothing more precious. Time is to be savored,
bring a sense of order to the day. That said, in the pages ahead,
used wisely and shared with loved ones.
you'll read about the evolution of the “Tool Watch” and the integral
At Fourtané, we continue to do our best to make your experi-
part Rolex played. We talk to Ross Povey — one of the world’s
ence with us time well spent, whether it’s in the store, on the
most knowledgeable experts on Tudor watches — who takes us
phone, online, or on social media. We look forward to the future
through the history of the chronograph and what makes it so spe-
and the opportunity to serve you.
cial. In addition, there have been some very exciting watch intro-
Wishing you all a safe and happy holiday.
ductions this year, including the new Patek Philippe Calatrava
John, Josh and Kris Bonifas
Ocean Avenue & Lincoln at the Pine Inn Carmel, California 93921
(831) 624-4684 Fourtané Rolex Boutique 7007 Friars Road, Suite 390A 7007 Friars Road, Suite 390A San Diego, CA 92108
(619) 684-6014 10 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Installing the highest weather station in the world on Mt. Everest 12 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Reaching the
TOP
When minutes and logistics count, time management can be the most important factor in conquering the world's extremes.
K
and once climbers pass 8,000 meters they have entered what
to safeguard the environment, particularly ways to stem climate
some call the “death zone.” Oxygen is so limited, temperatures so
change and preserve the glaciers.
eeping track of time is important in everyone’s life, but
seeking to collect data to protect our endangered planet, whether
when it comes to climbing Mount Everest, it is absolutely
the mountains, the rain forests or the oceans. Perpetual Planet is
vital. The summit is 8,848 meters, or 29,028 feet high,
assisting the National Geographic Society in efforts to find solutions
low and winds so high that life is truly endangered. The brain and
In 2019 a National Geographic-led team of 30 scientists devel-
lungs can swell. Ribs can crack. It’s a place to get in and out of fast
oped five weather
— and then begin the arduous descent down the mountain before
stations to be
darkness sets in.
taken to Mount
Every second counts, which is why Rolex has accompanied
Everest and in-
several history-making expeditions, helping mountaineers keep
stalled at various
life-saving track of time. In doing so, Rolex has tested its timepieces
elevations along
under the harshest conditions imaginable, analyzing their perform-
the climb. The
ance. Then experts apply that research to the watches that end up on
team set up
the retail market for watch lovers whose most difficult climb may be
camps and began the ascent, carrying the disassembled pieces of
up the corporate ladder.
each weather station along the way. The higher up the mountain
For the 50th anniversary of the Explorer and in celebration of the
The National Geographic weather station team on Mt. Everest
they went, the shorter the actual time involved in installing each sta-
latest Explorer II, Rolex pays homage to the men and women who
tion grew — because of depleting levels of oxygen, brutally lower
tackled Mount Everest, battling limits on time, the body and the spirit.
temperatures and punishing winds. National Geographic offered a vivid account of the expedition.
Improvising When Every Second Counts
The goal was to install the final station at the summit. The day when
The mission: Install the highest weather station in the world to provide
conditions allowed the climb, the trail was slowed because too
crucial information on climate change. More than one-fifth of the
many climbers were blocking the way. The unanticipated shortage
world’s population, some 1.6 billion people, get their water from
of time meant the weather station would have to be installed at
glaciers in the Himalayas. Within the next 80 years, an estimated
8,400 meters, still in the so-called death zone. With every second
one-third of those glaciers, and the water they provide, will disappear
counting, there was no room for more setbacks. If only…
because of global warming.
No one had anticipated that the batteries for the drill needed for
This is where Rolex steps in. The company introduced its Perpetual Planet Initiative in 2019 to support the explorers and expeditions
assembly might freeze. But freeze they did, until one clever team member stuck them under his armpit to warm them up. It worked.
13 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
“My Explorer II is probably the most important piece of equipment I had with me on all these climbs.” —Ed Viesturs The troubles didn’t stop there: The weather monitors had to be attached to a pole, and someone forgot to bring the pole. Again, fast thinking was called for. One man realized that the handle of the shovel
oxygen can become serious issues.” “My watch, and the time it tells, is the key to my safety.” Pushing the Limits of Body and Mind
he was carrying could do the job, if its oval shape was battered into a Dr. Christine Janin was the first Frenchwoman to climb to the top of circle and wrapped in duct tape (to decrease the size of the opening). Mount Everest. A former Rolex Testimonee, she later became the Thanks to that last-minute ingenuity, the world’s highest weather stafirst European woman to reach the top of the highest peaks on all tion was assembled and data was sent by satellite from the mounseven continents. And as if that weren’t enough of pushing her tains of the Himalayas to Washington D.C., in impressive time. body, fortitude and determination to the limit, she next became the first
The Key to Survival: Time Management Ed Viesturs, a Rolex Testimonee, has climbed all 14 of the world’s peaks that are over 8,000 meters high (about 26,000 feet) without supplemental oxygen, and he has
North Pole on skis, without the aid of sled dogs.
climbed Mount Everest seven times.
How does she do it?
Strapped to his wrist on each ascent:
“The key to a successful climb or
his Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, which
expedition is to be in excellent shape
he credits with having a direct impact
when you set off,” she observed. “For Dr. Christine Janin
on his safety and success.
that, you must have trained very thor-
“I have a Rolex Explorer II that I
Ed Viesturs
woman in the world to reach the
oughly and have begun preparing several years earlier in order to
received in 1994 when I had climbed
gain sufficient experience and adapt the body to the conditions you
three of the 8,000-meter peaks,”
are going to face.”
Viesturs said. “I wore my Explorer II every single day, since that mo-
Not only does the body get stronger, but the spirit does, too.
ment, on all my climbs, and I still wear it today. It has never failed
"Summits are conquered meter by meter, breath by breath,”
me. It’s probably the most important piece of equipment I have
Janin said. “On the way we discover qualities we didn't know we
with me.”
had that enable us to get to the top. We then feel immense joy in
“When climbing, time management is the most significant factor in my success, and ultimately my survival,” he continued. “Each half-hour counts.” He calculates timings for the entire day, he explained, including
realizing that we know how to face up to dangers and overcome challenges posed by the environment." This is a philosophy that Janin has shared to help others through her foundation, À Chacun Son Everest! — To Each His Everest! She helps both chil-
the time he needs to begin his descent. “I have a rule of turning around by 2 o’clock in the afternoon at
dren and adults recovering from cancer and has arranged for
the latest, whether or not I have reached the summit,” he said. “Some
more than 6,000 people to climb the French Alps, to discover
climbers have found themselves in life-threatening situations because
how successfully challenging physical limits can make a person
they turned back too late. The cold, darkness, fatigue and lack of
stronger in body and soul.
14 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Clockwise from top left: Ed Viesturs, Dr. Christine Janin, the National Geographic weather station team at work on Mt. Everest 15 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
GAME CHANGERS The evolution of the tool watch
W
atches can do so much more than tell time. They help climbers get to the top of the world’s highest peaks, and divers to the oceans’ deepest depths. These
marvels of engineering are known as "tool" watches, and Rolex is the category’s undisputed star. Like all tools, these devices enable humans to accomplish goals,
and in Rolex’s case those have often been record-breaking and historymaking. To aid in the success of these missions, tool watches require the highest levels of technology, engineering, science and watchmaking, which the team at Rolex unequivocally possesses. Over the years, Rolex has been in the enviable position of being able to use the many explorations it has supplied watches for as laboratories to test those very same timepieces. Upon completion of each mission, Rolex was able to examine and probe the watch’s performance and improve and adapt it accordingly. The original tool watches became templates to develop, refine and update, creating the watches that are available today for anyone to put on their wrist and enjoy, even people whose biggest adventure may be entering the boardroom or signing into a Zoom chat. The 1950s were the golden age when three of Rolex’s most famous tool watches were born. That first full decade after World War II was a time of unparalleled optimism, and out of that spirit came an attendant desire for expansion and the exploration that precedes it. Rolex was there with watches that enabled ground-breaking adventures on land, air and sea. The Rolex GMT Master was created in 1955 in response to changes in air travel. Long-haul flights were becoming more and more common, and the airlines needed a watch for its pilots that would clock the time back home as well as the time while traveling across oceans and foreign lands. The GMT Master was one of the few watches that could display the time in any two zones around the world, keeping both pilots
16 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
1953 THE SUBMARINER Launched in 1953, the Submariner was the first divers’ watch waterproof to a depth of 100 meters (330 feet). Its rotatable bezel allowed divers to read their immersion time.
1953 THE EXPLORER Inspired by knowledge gained from this fascinating chapter of human adventure, the Oyster Perpetual Explorer, launched in 1953 to celebrate the victorious ascent of Everest, immediately acquired iconic status.
1955 THE GMT-MASTER The GMT-Master was developed to meet the specific needs of airline pilots. It became the official watch of several airlines, among them the famous Pan American World Airways, better known as Pan Am. Its most distinguishing visual feature was the two-tone bezel which marked daytime from nighttime hours.
1971 THE EXPLORER II Rolex presented the Oyster Perpetual Explorer II, dedicated to polar explorers, speleologists, and all those pushing the boundaries of exploration. The watch featured a distinctive 24-hour hand, an invaluable aid around the poles and beneath ground when you can't tell night from day.
17 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
In 1953 Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. and their globe-trotting passengers up to the minute, no matter
spend in decompres-
where they were.
sion stops. The Sub-
An extra hour hand was added to the innovation that made this
mariner was so
multizone capability possible: a rotating two-tone bezel. The watch
ground-breaking and
expert and historian Gregory Gardinetti explained the advantage. “If
respected that it soon
you don't touch the rotating bezel, the GMT hand will simply indicate
cemented Rolex’s
the local time on a 24-hour scale. And if you move the bezel, you can
position as the watch
choose the time zone you want. This is very useful information for pi-
brand for water explo-
lots flying through different time zones." Rolex’s goal for the airlines
ration. Once again, Rolex
was accomplished and the GMT became the official watch for Pan
continued to refine the watch, and the latest version of the Subma-
American Airways. Because Rolex continually improves on its
riner can descend to a depth of 300 meters, or 1,000 feet.
Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on Mount Everest.
watches, the GMT-Master available today is able to keep track of the time in three different time zones.
Rolex has a history of supplying Oyster watches for expeditions climbing the various peaks of the Himalaya Mountains. In 1953
Another iconic tool watch to come out of the 1950s is the
Rolex introduced the Explorer, inspired by the historic conquest of
Submariner. Introduced in 1953, the Submariner was the first dive
Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay. Their
watch waterproof to 100 meters (about 330 feet). It also sported the
expedition was the first to reach the 8,848-meter (29,028-foot)
all-important rotating bezel, which enabled the watch to keep track of
mountain’s summit. The Explorer inspired by their achievement was
immersion times and to calculate the varying amounts of time to
constructed of rugged stainless steel and featured a clear, very
This year Rolex introduced an all new Explorer . 18 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
legible dial as well as a waterproof case that could withstand not just
revised the Explorer II. The version introduced in 2011 grew a bit in
the moisture from melting snow and ice but also extremes in tem-
size, from 39mm to 42mm and enlarged its luminescent hour
perature as well. Despite the absence of any bells and whistles (like
markers and 24-hour signature orange arrow-tipped hands.
rotating bezels), the result of Rolex’s tool-making skill was just what
Which brings us to today. To celebrate its 50th birthday in 2021,
the adventure-minded needed: “a very strong and accurate watch,”
Rolex has revamped the Explorer II yet again. It now features a new
Gardinetti said.
luminescing process that increases the brightness of the watch’s
Fast-forward nearly two decades, to 1971, when Rolex introduced
hands for better readability. It also incorporates the multi-patent-
the Explorer II. Rather than being designed to aid mountain climbers,
winning caliber 3285, which provides better precision, shock resist-
the new watch was created with other types of expeditions in mind
ance and power reserve.
— those exploring regions like caves or polar caps, where light is
The Explorer and the Explorer II have always been produced in
scarce or irregular. To meet the needs in those darkened or dis-
stainless steel. Until now. For 2021, the Explorer took on a new look.
tanced environments, the Explorer II offered an extra 24-hour hand,
First, it’s been downsized, from 39mm back to its original 36mm.
a 24-hour marked bezel and an extremely luminous dial. The new
And while it’s being offered in the traditional stainless steel, in an
design made it possible to know whether it was day or night, no
alloy that provides unrivaled strength that Rolex calls Oystersteel,
matter where the wearer might be. “On the Explorer II, you have an
this year the case and bracelet also come in handsome new two-
indication of the 24 hours on the bezel,” Gardinetti said. “It helps to
tone versions. The bracelet features center links of a new 18-karat
know, for example, if it's 5 a.m. or 5 p.m. This is useful if you're in a
gold material called yellow Rolesor. The new 41mm Explorer II in
submarine or in space, as you don't know whether it's morning or af-
Oystersteel features a completely redesigned case and bracelet.
ternoon. Or let’s say you are stuck in a tempest for days and losing any notion of time.” The Explorer II would come to the rescue. In its continuing quest to adapt, evolve and improve, Rolex
The new Explorer and Explorer II offer ruggedness and refinement, reliability and good looks, providing the best of all worlds in one watch. From Rolex, of course.
The new Explorer II 19 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Above: The Patek Philippe Museum, Rue des Vieux-Grenadiers 7, 1205 Genève, Switzerland. Ref. P0884 from the museum collection. The new Ref. 7234G Caletrava Pilot Travel Time 2020 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
TIME and again At the Patek Philippe Museum we explore References with a storied past that have inspired today’s latest introductions
F
ew companies can claim the historic archive of
latest version of the Calatrava, Ref. 6119G, retains the distinctive
renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses, and
bezel but enlarges the case size to a more modern 39mm while
visitors to Geneva can see them on display at the
keeping the watch a slender 8.1 mm thin. The dial has been up-
Patek Philippe Museum in the city’s center. There are time-
dated as well; there are now sleek 18K gold “obus” hour markers
pieces more than 500 years old, as well as one of the first wrist-
with tapered,
watches, and also the remarkable Calibre 89, the watch with an
triangular
The Calibre 89 is on display at the Patek Philippe Museum
astounding 33
shaped
complications that
“dauphine”
made it the most
hands.
complicated
Perhaps the
watch ever when it
biggest differ-
was unveiled in
ence lies in-
1989. There are
side: a new
also the three
manually
watches here,
wound, high
originally designed
performance movement
in the 1920s and
(30-255 PS caliber) with twin barrels that
‘30s. They have in-
ensures a 65-hour power reserve. So you can wind your watch on a
spired new rendi-
Friday, and come Monday morning it’s still ready to go.
tions that pay
Above: Calatrava Ref. 96 from 1932, from the collection. At right: Calatrava Ref. 6119G
With the new Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, Patek
homage to the
Philippe rounds out its watch family that is inspired by the manu-
best of the past while updating the watch’s design and func-
facture’s aviator's watches from the 1930s. The very typical and
tions for today.
highly recognizable design was launched in 2015 and has already
Few watches are as iconic and admired as the Calatrava.
established itself as a modern classic. Patek Philippe has a long
The refined, elegant watch, a tribute to classic beauty, was intro-
and illustrious history with aviation. Perhaps none more so than the
duced in 1932, the same year the Stern family acquired Patek
timepieces that reflect input from the great aviator Charles Lind-
Philippe. There have been various interpretations of the watch
bergh. The first development in creating a timepiece for aviators
over the years, the most famous being Ref. 3919 with its white
was to take the watch out of their pocket and put it on their wrist.
dial, black lacquered Roman numerals, and its bezel decorated
The second, to create an hour-angle, or siderometer, wristwatch,
with guilloche in a hobnail pattern known as Clous de Paris. The
which determines the plane’s position based on a complicated
21 21 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Few companies can claim the historic archive of renown watches that Patek Philippe possesses
formula of angles and degrees with the time difference in Green-
cent of the harnesses that allowed pilots to keep their survival
wich, England where time 0 starts. Used together with a sextant
kits readily deployable in emergencies; Ref 7234R-01 has a
and radio signal, the watch helped allow simpler, faster and more
rose-gold buckle and vintage brown calfskin strap; Ref 7234G
precise positioning. Two particularly noteworthy exemplars of
sports a white gold buckle on a shiny navy blue calfskin strap.
such hour-angle – or siderometer – wristwatches were developed
Perpetual calendars are amongst the most complicated of any timepiece, requiring a movement composed of hundreds of parts arranged in layers, which is why these large complications were historically housed in the bigger dimensions of a pocket watch. In 1925, Patek Philippe changed all that when the company introduced its first perpetual calendar wristwatch. The watch presented the month, date and day in three separate windows. As a result, the case to accommodate it had to be rather thick. But once again, the experts at Patek Philippe went to work to come up with a technically-feasible, aesthicallyattractive solution. For
Above: Ref. 7234G-001 Calatrava Pilot Time. At right from the museum: Ref. P0844A-100 and Ref. P1655A-200
the first time, Patek Philippe
by Patek Philippe and are now both on display at the Patek
features a
Philippe Museum.
Perpetual
The advent of GPS put an end to all that, but Patek Philippe
Calendar wrist-
pays homage to those glory days with the Calatrava Pilot
watch with a
Travel Time.
completely in-
It is a precise and dependable timekeeping instrument with a
Above: Patrek Philippe No. P-72 from 1925. At right: Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P
line perpetual
time-zone function that is a boon for today’s travelers. It keeps
calendar display that had previously only existed in pocket
track of time in two zones, and is designed to be worn by women
watches that were originally created for the American market.
as well as men thanks to its medium-sized format (37.5mm.)
Ref. 5236P features a new self-winding movement (31-260 PS
A self-winding movement (324 S C FUS caliber) and skeleton
QL caliber) as well as the three patent pending applications
hands display home time while a solid hand indicates local time.
that were necessary for the innovations embedded in the
There’s also day/night indication for both the local and home
mechanism, all within the small, thin, wearable confines
time. Another nod to history is its clevis prong buckle, reminis-
of a wristwatch.
22 22 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Counterclockwise from top: Calatrava Pilot Time Ref. 7234G-001, Calatrava Ref. 6119R, Calatrava Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5236P 23 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
In a
LEAGUE of its own
The Patek Philippe Calatrava is one of the most influential watches in horological history
T
here are few watches as influential to Patek Philippe, and
de Paris design was added to the bezel and continues to prove popu-
to the entire world of horology, than the Calatrava. The
lar. In 1982 a version (Ref. 3796) designed for women was intro-
first Calatrava Ref. 96 was unveiled in 1932, the year the
duced, which also continues to evolve. There are Calatravas in yellow
Stern family took over what was then — hard to believe -- a struggling
gold, white gold, rose gold and platinum, with metal bracelets or calf-
watch brand, Patek Philippe. The success of the Ref. 96 helped cata-
skin; Calatravas with moonphases, date complications, an invisible
pult the company to the prominence it enjoys today. The watch’s very
dustcover over the case, a bezel surrounded with diamonds. What
name reveals its significance. It refers to
remains true is the purity of the aes-
the Cross of Calatrava, an order of
thetic: the perfect circle. The latest models released this
powerful knights from the Middle Ages. The cross bears four fleur-de-lys which
year provide a case in point of the
Patek Philippe adopted for its emblem.
Calatrava’s continuing evolution.
Why was the Calatrava so revolution-
The biggest change of the new
ary? At the time it was unveiled, round
Reference 6119G is something that
wrist watches were, surprisingly, not in
can’t be seen but definitely affects
favor. The Calatrava, with its spare, re-
its function. The watch contains a
fined round case, changed all that. The
new movement that provides a 65-
watch was admired for its elegant sim-
hour time reserve. Ref. 6119G, 2021, detail
plicity. It was designed along the princi-
The newest Calatrava Pilot Travel
ples of the Bauhaus movement, which rests on the necessity of form
Time pays homage to the glory days of aviation when watches
following function, so beauty and practicality are supreme.
were an essential aid in flying a plane by helping to precisely deter-
The function of the Calatrava: to tell the time. A simple white dial
mine its position. Reference 7234R-001 (with its rose gold buckle
with minimally designed hands and markers did the job, beautifully.
and vintage brown calfskin strap) and Reference 7234G (with its
The Sterns relaunched Patek Philippe with the Ref. 96, and the watch
white gold buckle and navy calfskin strap) have day /night indica-
world took notice. Today, round watch cases are more the norm than
tors to keep the time in two different time zones, so today’s mod-
the exception, and the Calatrava continues as an important part of
ern travelers can know the time back home and the time of
Patek Philippe, past and present.
wherever they’ve journeyed to, while the watch retains its elo-
Over the years the Calatrava has evolved to meet the times, and there have been dozens of variations. The original was 31 mm; the
quent simplicity. It’s yet another example of form following function that has made
latest versions clock in larger to appeal to a contemporary clientele
the Calatrava and all its variations one of the most important and
that prefers a bigger dial. In the 1980s a decorative hobnail, or clous
influential timepieces ever made.
25 F O U R T A N E 36M A G A Z I N E MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Man of the Hour We talk to Ross Povey — one of the world’s most knowledgeable experts on Tudor watches — who takes us through the history of the chronograph and what makes it so special
F
or Ross Povey,
When I went to find out more about them, I discovered that there was
there’s nothing more
very little out there. This was back in 2002, and from then on, I made
desirable than a
it my mission to be the expert and research their history. I set up a
Tudor timepiece, whether it’s to
site, TudorCollector.com, that’s now a big source for information on
wear or collect.
Tudors and talks a lot about vintage ones.
The brand was founded in 1926 by Hans Wilsdorf, who wanted to offer consumers watches that were affordable
Ross Povey is the founder of TudorCollector.com, which is internationally regarded as the preeminent resource for the vintage Tudor collecting community. As part of his extensive research, Ross has unearthed some of the most important Tudor watches, especially military-issued pieces.
Q. When did you get your first Tudor Chronograph? A. In 2008, from a local watch dealer. I bought it at a good price and wore it for many years until I traded it in for another Tudor.
but maintained a remarkably high quality. Tudors are prized for their style, oyster cases and selfwinding mechanism. Each comes with a guarantee for performance and reliability. Povey, based in Cheshire, England, is one of the world’s
foremost experts on Tudor watches and shares his insights and fascination about the brand below.
Q. How did you become an expert on Tudor watches? A. I’ve been into watches and the mechanics of how they worked
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono,graph, 2021
since I was a kid. I indulged my interest on online forums with fellow
Q. Today, the Black Bay Chrono, which was recently intro-
enthusiasts.
duced, is the watch everybody wants. Why do you think that is?
Occasionally, people on these forums would chat about Tudors
A. The demand for vintage watches has never been higher than it
and post pictures. I was drawn to them because they are playful and
is today, and the prices are insane. What Tudor does incredibly well is
have colorful dials.
launch watches with a style that appeals to vintage fans, and the 26 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Q. That model was followed by the 7100 series, the Monte Carlo in ‘71, another cool name. How did these timepieces differ, and how are they technologically different from today’s versions?
A. Monte Carlo’s dial had similar colors, but the dial itself was a different shape. It looked like a roulette table, hence its name. Today’s versions are more precise with timetelling and sturdier.
Q. You’ve said that the Tudor The Tudor Oysterdate Series 7000, “Home Plate” 1970.
Blue Heritage Chrono is one of your favorites. What in particu-
Black Bay Chrono is a perfect example of that. It has all the vintage lar do you like about it? design cues like the white dial with black sub-dials, but it’s a modern high-tech watch at heart with super quality. It’s not as delicate as a
A. It was released in 2014 and very faithful to the original Monte
vintage watch. Carlo watches, which I loved.
Q. Can you tell us a bit about the origins and history of the
However, this new version had modern technology and was meant
Tudor Chronograph? We know the Oysterdate 7000 Series to be an everyday watch. It’s also
The Tudor Heritage Chronograph Blue Dial launched in 2014.
was introduced in 1970, but what exactly about it made it waterproof so it could withstand wear and tear, which a vintage take off? And Monte Carlo couldn’t. how did it get the nickname
Q. Are there any other Tudor Chronographs that stand out
“home plate”?
A. I think it was
in your mind? And why?
A. Probably the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s all black and a limited-
so popular because of the style, which was more daring than anything else out there at the time. The gray dial had strong orange accents, and the de-
The Tudor Oysterdate Series 7100, “Monte Carlo” 1971.
sign was a standout that resonated with watch buyers. As for the nickname, the dial has five-sided arrow markers like the home plate does in baseball
The Tudor Black Bay Chronograph Dark, 2019, named for the All Blacks, New Zealand’s national rugby team. It was originally limited to 1,181 pieces, one unit for each player ever to have played for the team. One watch is added when the team selects a new player
27 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
so cool and great for everyday but also for special occasions. I also own the Home Plate from 1970, but I reserve that for special occasions — high days and holidays as I like to say.
Q. Which Tudor/s are you going to pass down to your children?
A. The 1970 Home Plate. I would sell any other watch I own, but this one is a true heirloom that I never want to part with.
Q. Why is it a good time to collect? What are some good choices right now? And what advice do you have for seasoned as well as new Tudor collectors?
A. Actually, I think this is a difficult time if you want to collect because the prices are sky The Tudor Black Bay Chrono Dark, 2019
high. The classic Tudors are so expensive and hard to find. My
edition piece. It stands out on your wrist when you wear it, and it’s rare because Tudor had never done a limited-edition watch before.
advice would be to look at the Chronos from the mid to late 1990s if you’re searching for collectibles. You can still buy them for a
Q. Do you think the 2020s are a particularly important time
good value, and, in an ideal world, they’ll be worth a lot more down
for the chronograph? Are design and technology going
the line. But there are no guarantees of that, of course.
through big changes? Or is the classic chronograph taking solid, almost permanent form?
A. The chronograph is timeless and hasn’t changed in form and function since the 1930s. There’s nothing groundbreaking about what the new models do, but they are becoming better quality in the way the movements are manufactured. They’re more precise and more durable.
Q. What is your personal favorite among the Tudor chronographs? What are the things you love about it? And if you have more than one Tudor Chrono, what are they and are there different occasions in which you wear them?
A. My hands-down favorite is the Black Bay Chrono Dark. It’s just
The new Tudor Black Bay Chronograph, full view and detail
28 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
The The
55
mostexpensive expensivewristwatches wristwatches ever ever sold sold at auction most at auction
The most expensive watch ever sold at auction was the
for wristwatches at regular auctions,
$31 million paid for the one-off Patek Philippe Grandmaster
which have reached incredible highs as
Chime sold at the 2019 Christie’s-run Only Watch auction
well. The top prices ever paid for watches
in Geneva. That was a charity event, and prices are
sold at auction should inspire any watch
always unusually high in the name of doing good.
lover to buy a new one with the potential
The prices that interest most collectors are those paid
to sell it later, and retire.
$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500
Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, $17,752,500, Phillips New York 2017 Arguably, the most famous timepiece in the world.
Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, $9,008,856, Christie's Hong Kong 2019 One of only seven 2523 dualcrown world time wristwatches believed to have been issues in pink gold. and only the fifth to be offered at auction.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6265 “The Unicorn”, 5,937,500, Phillips Geneva 20 being the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.
$5,708,885
Patek Philippe 18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, $5,708,885, Christies Geneva 2010. Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.
$11,002,000
Patek Philippe ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, CHF 11,002,000, Phillips Geneva 2016. It's the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions. 29 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
From top left: The Santos-Dumont watch, 1904. Aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. The Santos de Cartier all black 30 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Timeless Icon The Cartier Santos — a classic re-engineered for modern living
W
hen Cartier released its first Santos watch in
Then there’s the watch strap of the All Black. There is a choice
1904, it was a ground-breaker.
of black rubber with screw-shaped rivets — or
In an era of pocket watches, this
black alligator skin. The straps are interchange-
one was designed with a leather strap so it could
able and can be switched in the flick of a wrist,
be worn on the wrist, to free the hands of the man
thanks to the Cartier QuickSwitch™ system.
who inspired it, the aviator Alberto Santos-
The link bracelet can be customized for a per-
Dumont, so he could fly a plane unencumbered.
sonalized fit, removing or adding links with
There were more differences. The watch was
the touch of a button, the result of another
square instead of round, inspired by the modern
innovation, Cartier’s SmartLink™ self-fitting
urban architecture of the Eiffel Tower. And, also
technology.
somewhat shocking, there were screws on the
What remains the same are the features that
bezel that were visible, delivering another indus-
made the Santos so beloved in the first place:
trial touch. All in all,the Santos watch was not just
the signature square shape, the visible screws, The Santos De Cartier in All Black
revolutionary; it was mightily attractive too. No
the refined yet rugged aesthetic, the masterly
wonder it proved to be so popular that Cartier relaunched the collection in 2018 to great fanfare.
workmanship and the ultimate reliability of function. This is not the first time Cartier has updated one of its iconic
Recently, the Santos has been updated with the introduction of
models. A few years ago, the company released a new twist on its
an all black edition. The big change here is that the steel case has a
Panthère and Tank 100 watches, according to Cara Barrett, the
black ADLC coating, including on the bezel and the crown. The case
editor of the influential watch site Hodinkee. It makes sense, she
measures 47.5mm by 39.8mm with a date complication at six
says, that “Cartier is looking to its heritage to recreate its vintage
o’clock. A black faceted spinel set in the crown completes the look.
pieces.” But they’re not simply leaving well enough alone and reis-
The Santos has a caliber that makes it resistant to the powerful
suing the timepieces; they’re updating them as well. “It’s nice that
magnetic fields a watch may be exposed to on an everyday basis.
they are trying to fine-tune different models to make them better.”
Additionally, for all the deep-sea divers out there, it is now water-re-
Barrett is a fan of all things Cartier because “they understand
sistant up to 100 meters, a feat accomplished with minimal case
design and have nailed the aesthetic. It’s clean, elegant and under-
thickness. The watch’s functionality is elemental; it has been made
stated. You know it’s a Cartier without its being ostentatious.”
and tested to stand up to changes in position, humidity, tempera-
“The Santos design,” she adds, “will never go out of style. After
ture, pressure, impact and acceleration so these factors do not in-
all, classics become classics for a reason: they look good, and
terfere with its accuracy.
they’re timeless.” Which is all anyone could want in a watch. 31 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
NAVARRA COLLECTION
StyleWATCH Explore the Roberto Coin Collection Roberto Coin is one of the world’s most popular jewelry designers. His pieces have been worn by fashion icons and celebrities like Michelle Obama, Oprah, Laura Linney, Sophia Vergara, and Kate McKinnon. His designs radiate luxury, style and sophistication, inspired by Vicenza, the “City of Gold” and the heart of Italy’s 18K gold manufacturing industry, with over 700 years of goldsmithing tradition. The look is thoroughly modern and is designed for everyday wear. To give you a sampling of this exquisite collection, we've chosen a few of our favorite pieces that can be worn over and over again — alone or stacked and layered for bolder impact.
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F O U R T A N É
F U T U R E
FA M I LY
H E I R L O O M S
love forever
It’s always the moment to buy something you will
right
Some things never go out of style, which is just what you should expect in a piece of fine jewelry. It should be something you love and will wear forever — and like you— never lose its ability to dazzle.
A fabulous necklace
Victorian Amethyst Collar - Substantial and glamorous, this Victorian Collar is set with large faceted ovals of exceptionally color-saturated amethyst, each stone nestled in its own granulated golden bezel. The absence of diamonds, yet assertive size allow this piece to be worn for any occasion. It remains protected in its original presentation box and is finished with a safety chain
36 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
A unique pendant 51 Carat Aquamarine & Diamond Necklace - This stunning pendant was converted from an art deco era clip/brooch and is suspended from an attached diamond chain of more modern manufacture. The pendant is rendered in platinum with an 18 karat white gold back frame and the chain is 18 karat white gold. The elongated cushion faceted aqua boasts exceptional color for a stone of this size and weighs 51 carats. The major stone is accented by 2.72 carats of diamonds on the chain and set in the elaborate frame of the aqua. Bold, yet ultra-feminine, this piece will not go unnoticed and is certain to encourage compliments. The pendant measures 1.75 inches by 1 inch at its widest point. The chain is 16 inches long.
Elegant gold earrings & broach Victorian Bold Yellow Gold Brooch and Earring Set, circa 1850 A pair of bold Etruscan Revival antique earrings circa 1850. Beautiful granulation was executed with wonderful symmetry and expertise. Truly a high style antique set of gorgeous earrings and brooch, fantastic!.
An iconic bracelet Henry Dunay "Sabi" Collection Diamond Bracelet Eighteen karat yellow gold bracelet from the Henry Dunay "Sabi" collection adorned with 17.12 carats total weight of micro pave set round brilliant cut natural diamonds. The piece is hand textured and boasts the incredible hand one would expect from an important piece from this esteemed designer. The golden links glow among the dazzling diamond sections. It has a hidden clasp and safety clasp and is made in the USA. The bracelet measures 8 inches and is accompanied by the original presentation box. The original retail price was $138,570.
An opal and diamond ring 8.74 Carat Oval Opal and Diamond Cluster Ring - A striking oval opal, with strong flashes of blue and green, framed in a bright border of brilliant white diamonds. The stone is set in a handmade heavy platinum mounting. The diamonds weigh 3.33 carats in total. Size 7.25 can be resized on request.
An extraordinary estate piece Edwardian Earrings with Rose Cut Diamonds and Lavender Enamel - C/1915. Made of silver over 14 karat rose gold and decorated with intensely-hued lavender enamel, the earrings are an exceptional display of antique finery and were clearly conceived with masterful skill.
37 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
The future heirloom Victorian Pear-Framed Lover’s Eye Pin - C/1820. A charming antique bit for the collector, the miniature portrait is rendered on ivory and framed by natural pearls. Set in rose gold. 7/8 by ¾ inches.
The future heirloom
That great conversation piece
Citrine, Onyx & Diamond Drop Earrings Unique and striking, the earrings measure 2.25 inches long and .75 inches wide at their widest point. Mounted in 14 karat yellow gold, the warmly-hued citrines are suspended from an art deco style top set with alternating black onyx and white diamonds. The dramatic contrast is a symbiotic variance from the soft, organic allure of citrine. Enjoy these earrings with a crisp blouse in the day and evening gown in the evening.
Granulated Gold, Gemstone & Enamel Cross Pendant with Original Box - A stunning antique treasure, made of 18k yellow gold and decorated with gemstones and enamel. The open filigree detail and extensive granulation are impeccably preserved and are complimented by pink topaz, rubies, citrine and enamel. Measuring 3.5 by 2.25 inches, this piece will not go unnoticed. It would make a worthy addition to the collection of any antique jewelry enthusiast.
Statement diamond bracelet Rose & White Gold Abacus Bracelet with 9.62 Carats of Diamonds, signed "Gemayel" - This is such a fun piece to wear, offering movement, bold style and inspired craftsmanship… it even makes a lovely sound when moved around! Designed as a wide bangle which opens with a single hinge, tapering from 1 1/8 to 3/4 of an inch wide at the back. The front is decorated with six rows of white gold squares, each set with four brilliant round white diamonds and effortlessly sliding to and fro on a diamond-studded track; each block glides with gravity. Interior diameter 2 by 2 3/8 inches. Use this bracelet as an abacus to count your blessings… but not your chickens before they hatch! And if you like it, kindly have a peek at the matching ring, also available among our listings!
A cocktail ring 6.13 Fancy Brown-Yellow Pear Diamond in Custom Bloodstone Mounting - Conceived as a collaboration between Fourtane and Seaman Schepps/Trianon, this truly unique creation is distinctive and, indeed, one-of-a-kind. The bloodstone mounting has been custom-designed to showcase the alluring beauty of the natural fancy colored center diamond. GIA describes the major diamond as exhibiting fancy brownish yellow color, with Vs2 clarity. The pear brilliant diamond weighs 6.13 carats. The center diamond is set in 18k rose gold and the interior of the mounting is also lined in rose gold. The bezel-set white round brilliant diamonds peppered in the mounting are framed in 18k white gold. The ring is a size 6.5 and cannot be resized. 38 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
A fine Swiss timepiece collectable It’s one of life’s luxuries you have to have. And you don’t have to be a collector to shop our pre-owned selection of men’s and women’s luxury timepieces. Every Fourtané certified pre-owned watch is guaranteed authentic and accompanied by a one-year warranty that covers internal mechanical defects. Our warranty repairs are performed in-house by Fourtané’s team of master watchmakers or sent for repair to the original manufacturer of the timepiece.
18K yellow gold Movado pocket watch - C/1925. This manuallywound pocket watch is adorned with a sapphire-tipped crown and a pair of old European cut white diamonds. The stylized case and Breguet numerals are a handsome compliment to one other. The piece measures 1.75 inches by 1.75 inches including the bale.
Pre-owned vintage Rolex rare yellow gold Datejust Ref #6305. This timepiece will make a prized addition to the wardrobe of the seasoned collector. It is a truly rare example. It is noted for its beautiful original condition including the hands and bracelet, as well as its uncommon black dial. Look at those markers! 36mm
Pre-owned vintage Rolex 18K rose gold Lady. This rare and collectable automatic lady’s Rolex ref. #4487 is made of 18 karat rose gold and retains its original, beautifully-styled associated bracelet. It is important to note that the bracelet is of Rolex manufacture. The original dial with sub-seconds display is unrestored and remains in mint condition. Automatic lady’s watches were uncommon during the 1940s and this special example would have been among the finest time pieces of its era. The case has a 22.5 millimeter diameter and the watch measures 7.5 inches in overall length when flat.
Pre-owned vintage Rolex retro rose gold oversized bracelet watch. An exceptional example of a mid-century Rolex creation made of 18 karat rose gold, this highly stylized bracelet is comprised of polished butterfly- or bowtie-shaped links, the pattern only interrupted to showcase a 12mm honeycomb watch dial. The texture of the dial remains crisp and distinct. Note the raised markers. The movement is manually-wound. The bracelet measures 6.5 inches long and 1.5 inches wide. This impressive and gorgeous accessory will also keep you punctual! It’s a bold and chic statement, courtesy of the most esteemed watch brand. Circa 1950’s
39 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Understanding
Watch Speak
The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Patek Philippe Collection:
GUILLOCHÉ The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial.
Ref # 5230R-012
GRAND COMPLICATION Grand complications include timepieces with the most complicated functions including minute repeaters, split-second chronographs and perpetual calendars. Ref # 5270J-001 (shown at right) also includes moon phases, leap year and day/night indication.
Ref # 5270J-001
MOONPHASE In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold- colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window. Ref # 5146G-010
POWER RESERVE
Ref # 5960/01G-001 (detail)
The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was only a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.
CHRONOGRAPH A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return- to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it.
PERPETUAL CALENDAR
A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, an d year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.
Ref # 7150/250R-001 40 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
Ref # 5327G-001
THE PEBBLE BEACH PRO--AM JAN. 31--FEB. 6, 6 2022
WHAT YOU’LL SEE
DON’T MISS
The practice
PGA Tour event AT&T Pebble Beach
rounds on Tuesday and Wednesday are
Pro-Am is held annually on three of the
open to spectators. They’re an incred-
Monterey Peninsula’s most renowned golf courses: Pebble Beach Golf Links, Spyglass Hill Golf Course, and Monte-
Daniel Berger
ible opportunity to watch pros and other big names up close and take photos and videos.
rey Peninsula Country Club Shore Course. Players include professional golfers, celebrities, and prominent business leaders.
WHERE TO STAY The Lodge at Pebble Beach is an
PLANNING TIPS\
oceanfront resort that’s a favorite for gol-
n the Pebble beach hotels sell out first so those
fers, who consider a stay to be a tradition
are ones to book ASAP
local charities, and a few events lead-
whenever they’re in town.
rn Dress in layers as the weather changes
ing up to the main tournament add an
The Inn at Spanish Bay is a dreamy re-
throughout the day. Mornings and evenings tend
All tournament proceeds benefit
energetic vibe to the week. In years
treat set amid pine trees and an ocean-
to be chilly and windy while temperatures can be
past, they’ve included the AT&T Every
front golf course.
20 degrees higher midday.
Shot Counts Charity Challenge and
Casa Palmero, with only 24 rooms, is
n Since the tournament is played on three
the Million Dollar Hole-in-One for Char-
a boutique property that evokes the feel-
courses, it’s best to plan out which ones you
ity and feature celebrities and well-
ing of staying at your best friend’s home
want to hit and on what days. Of course, it de-
known athletes.
who owns a fabulous Mediterranean-in-
pends on the players you’d like to see.
spired villa. The service is stellar.
42 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
The world’s best
BEACH GETAWAYS Fun, sun, celebrity-watching and more at the Pebble Beach Pro Am Golf Tournament and the Concours D'Elegance PEBBLE BEACH CONCOURS D'ELEGANCE, AUGUST 15-21, 2022 WHAT YOU’LL SEE Long recognized as one of the top automobile shows in the world, the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance is an exhibit of 200 or so of the best collector cars in the world. Most are privately owned while a handful are on loan from museums. The action happens on the 18th fairway at Pebble Beach Golf Links and the areas surrounding it. Spectators can look forward to a showcase that includes antiques dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries such as the Locomobile Steamer. Then there are hand-built cars from between the two world wars such as the Duesenberg from Indiana. Concepts for the future-- the next sleek Aston Martin perhaps-- are also part of the lineup. Numerous events take place throughout the week such as invite-only dinners and the Tour D’Elegance where most of the cars on display embark on the scenic and iconic 17-mile drive on Highway One. Pebble Beach Concours culminates in a competition where car industry experts vote for winners in different categories such as Best Antique Car. 2019 Best of Show winner 1931 Bentley 8 Litre Gurney Nutting Sports Tourer
PLANNING TIPS\
Most hotels are sold-out by early spring so if n
WHERE TO STAY DON’T MISS
Dawn Pa-
trol on the final day when the compet-
L’Auberge Carmel, a Relais & Chateaux property in Carmel, is set a few blocks from the
you’re coming from out of town, make your reservations as soon as possible.
n Outside food is permitted, and attendees are
beach and home to the excellent fine dining
encouraged to bring a picnic basket. Put together
restaurant Aubergine.
an elaborate spread- think caviar, champagne,
the competition. It does mean show-
InterContinental the Clement Monterey is a
and cheeses- pack a blanket, and enjoy a sumptu-
ing up at 5:30 a.m., but you’ll be
waterfront resort next to the Monterey Bay
ous lunch on the scenic lawns. You can also buy
treated to doughnuts, coffee, and an
Aquarium and in the heart of town.
food onsite.
event hat and also have a chance to
Bernardus Lodge & Spa, in Carmel Valley, is
n VIP tickets, which get you a front row seat to the
ing cars are prepped and polished for
meet the car owners.
set among 28 acres of vineyards and fruit or-
final competition, and other perks such as gift bags
chards. The spa is exceptional as the farm-to-
and food, sell out by early spring. Buy them early be-
table restaurant Lucia.
fore they’re gone.
43 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
CLASSIC MEETS MODERN: Our new flexible Diamond bracelets and the Voluma Link necklace.
ON MODEL: CN132 S T Y L E N U M B E R : L B 2 3 2 0 -Y, B 2 3 2 0 - R , L B 2 3 3 6 - R , L B 2 3 3 6
S I M O N G J E W E L R Y. C O M
S a n
D i e g o
in eu tortor. Integer maximus, erat in blandit maximus, orci eros con-
posuere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in soam sol-
vallis erat, vel posuere mauris dui vel nisi. Nam sollicitudin turpis tor-
licitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. mus, orci eros
tor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. mus, orci eros convallis erat, vel
cam sollicitudin turpis tortor, in sodales enim scelerisque ac. mus,
46 FOURTANE MAGAZINE
REPRESENTING
THE FINEST REAL ESTATE SALES AND LUXURY VACATION RESIDENCES CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA | P E B BLE BEACH | CARMEL VA LLEY | B I G SU R COA ST
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(831) 624-4684