MAGAZINE
RAINFOREST GUARDIAN
Rolex Associate Laureate Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time
NOW IS THE TIME! Reasons to invest in a fine Swiss timepice
REDEFINING LUXURY
Inside the new Patek Philippe manufacture
Objects of
DESIRE
Pomellato's Nudo Collection harnesses the power of color
EVERY JEWELRY HOUSE HAS AT LEAST ONE STYLE THAT'S P
nique that does away with prongs. And beyond sparkling with a pal-
Nudo Collection. The 53-year-old Milanese company has made its
ette of colors — London blue topaz, pale pink quartz, violet amethyst,
mark with luscious-looking gemstones in simple settings that are
lime green peridot — the company is committed to sustainable and
meant to be worn every day — as opposed to remaining locked away
ethical jewelry-making practices.
in a safe, says Pino Rabolini, the founder, who grew up in a family of goldsmiths.
Now comes the hard part: choosing your power color — the one that's entirely your own worn for luck and confidence. But
What makes Nudo (named after the Italian word for "naked")
don't stop there. These are pieces meant to be mixed and
rings, earrings and pendants so special is the setting. The bright
matched, stacked and collected. May we suggest a couple of sin-
stones are almost fully exposed, held in place by an inventive tech-
gle-stone bangles?
An endless surprise of color and style ready to stun, Nudo is the emblem of the modern ring every woman wants to own.
6 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
IT ‘S AN ABSOLUTE PLEASURE TO WELCOME you
pendable watches — have dared to go, revealing
to Moretti’s Fine Jewelry Magazine, which is a great
discoveries that could have enormous impact on the
way for us to share our considerable knowledge
health of our planet. If a soothing spa retreat is more
about fine jewelry and timepieces with loyal cus-
your style, turn to Page 24 for a peek at three in-
tomers like you.
dulge-yourself destinations.
While our favorite part of the business is getting to
And during the busy days ahead, as we enter the
know you when you stop by our store looking for that
most festive time of the year, we invite you to come
perfect engagement ring, birthday surprise or holiday
into our store and let our team of watch and gem-
gift, we also hope you enjoy flipping through these
stone experts find just the right gifts for everyone on
pages, which will take you inside the world of watch col-
your list. We wish you happy holidays and look for-
lecting, where you may be surprised by what passionate
ward to seeing you.
collectors prize most. You'll also travel to far-flung places like the depths of the ocean, where few people — and yet some super-de-
8 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
With kind regards, Jill & Mike Moretti
T H E
M A G A Z I N E
by M O R E T T I ’ S
CONTENTS
F I N E
J E W E L R Y
VOL.2, NO. 1
FEATURES 12
MAGAZINE
RAINFOREST GUARDIAN Rolex
Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time.
RAINFOREST GUARDIAN
Rolex Associate Laureate Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time
NOW IS THE TIME! Reasons to invest in a fine Swiss timepiece
REDEFINING LUXURY
Inside the new Patek Philippe manufacture
16
ON OUR COVER
Four noted watch experts weigh in on what to buy now.
Shimmerling like sand in the sun, the exquisite pavé of diamonds in Pomellato’s Ring Sabia dazzle as they catch the light.
A SMART INVESTMENT OPPORTUNITY— A SWISS TIMEPIECE
20
COLUMNS 6
REDEFINING LUXURY
Inside Patek Philippe’s new manufacture.
22
OBJECTS OF DESIRE
LUXURY SUVS-OUR 2021 PREVIEW
Luxury SUVs are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet.
Pomellato’s Nudo Collection harnesses the power of color.
26
ICONIC EXCELLENCE
15
IT’S COMPLICATED
Beyond telling time, Patek Philippe upholds a tradition in complications — annual calendars, dual time zones, world time displays — that are unrivaled in watchmaking art.
28
The Rolex Lady-DateJust is a classic for a reason.
19
THE FIVE MOST EXPENSIVE WRISTWATCHES EVER SOLD AT AUCTION Paul Newman’s
ITALIAN STYLE
$17,752,500 Daytona and more.
These playful, jubilant designs from Pomellato are motivation to get dressed up again.
34
32
ALL THAT GLITTERS
Diamonds are still a girl’s best friend.
38
WATCHSPEAK
Uncomplicating the world of fine timepiece complications.
36
STYLE STAPLES
DESIGNER SPOTLIGHT
Italy’s Giussepe Picchiotti is the master of gemstones.
Chic and easy jewelry that you can wear every day from Melissa Kaye.
11 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Rainforest
GUARDIAN Rolex Associate Laureate and conservation technologist Topher White is saving the climate one cellphone at a time
Topher White hoisting himself into the treetops. 12 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
A LOT OF WORLD-FAMOUS ENTREPRENEURS STARTED THEIR COMPANIES IN A garage. That includes the founders of Amazon, Apple and Google — and Topher White, the founder of Rainforest Connection. His idea for repurposing used cellphones to create a surveillance system of listening devices that can report illegal logging in the world's most vulnerable rain forests started in his parents' garage in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood of San Francisco. For more than four decades, Rolex has supported exceptional individuals like White, who have the spirit of enterprise, initiating extraordinary projects that help make the world a better place. The first Rolex Awards were presented in 1976 to commemorate the anniversary of the iconic Rolex Oyster Watch. And in the decades since, an impressive roster of laureates — whose passions and projects reflect the concerns of the times — have been chosen from around the globe. Over the last six years, use of White's monitoring devices
Topher White
has expanded well beyond his garage to remote rainforests throughout the world. It also earned him a coveted Rolex Award for Enterprise. Every second of the day, approximately two and a half acres of tropical forests are destroyed or drastically degraded, according to the INCUR (International Union for Conservation of Nature), threatening the survival of many species. Illegal logging is the biggest contributor to deforestation, which in turn contributes to climate change. With the world’s rainforests now shrinking so fast that they may be gone by 2100, the need for ways to prevent illegal logging and monitor forest wildlife is urgent. White's system, in which he rigs a cellphone to stay charged by solar cells was designed to do just that. “One of the most amazing things is that we’re using old technology, the stuff no one’s excited about, to do really cutting-edge science and conservation around the world,” White explains. “We take an old cellphone – the ones everyone
13 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
“The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected, and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.” Topher White throws away – and we can put it high up in the trees of the rainforest. It can listen to all the sounds and, using artificial intelligence, we can pick out the noise of chain saws, logging trucks, road building – or even of endangered species of birds or animals.” Currently, hundreds of the treetop monitoring devices have been installed over multiple continents creating a powerful "forest guardian" standing ready to provide timely warnings to communities and law enforcement agencies. “We form partnerships with local tribes, government agencies and community groups, and we can send alerts to them so they can actually show up and stop the illegal activity in real time, on the ground,” White says. The same technology is also being used to monitor the sounds of rare or important species of birds and animals, providing scientists
White's monitoring devices can detect illegal logging activity and send a text alert to authorities.
with a way to study the health of wildlife populations in a given area
in Brazil, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Romania, South Africa, Belize, Peru, the Philippines and the Indonesian island of Sumatra. “A really important element of what we do is work with local people, the ones who are protecting these areas, as they can have the biggest impact in fighting climate change,” he adds. What's next for White: “Rainforest Connection technology has surpassed its proof-of-concept phase and has moved into expansion with over 60 new projects in the pipeline. The amount of land protected will be the equivalent of taking six million cars off the road, 400 million trees protected and 30 million tonnes of CO2 sequestered.” And it all started in a garage.
White's petal-shaped solar panels are designed to catch the dappled sunlight in the jungle. adding momentum to conservation. The sounds are live-streamed, creating a vast digital library that gives scientists raw acoustic data. “We should be able to detect animals that don’t even make sounds. Jaguars might not always be vocalizing, but birds and other animals around them are,” he says. White and his nonprofit group, Rainforest Connection, have extensively tested forest-guardian technology with local communities
Use of the devices has expanded throughout the world.
14 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
ICONIC Elegance The Rolex Lady-Datenus — a classic for a reason THE HISTORY When introduced in 1945 to celebrate Rolex’s 40th anniversary, the DateJust was a game changer — the first self-winding wristwatch to display the date on the dial and it was designed for men. In 1955 the iconic cyclops date magnifier was introduced and the first official ladies’ version made its debut in 1957. Known as the Oyster Perpetual Lady-DateJust, it was crafted in 18 ct yellow gold with a smaller 28mm diameter to suit a women’s wrist. It was also one of the first ladies’ watches to receive COSC certification.
THE MOVEMENT Today the Lady-DateJust is powered by the caliber 2236. What makes this movement special is its use of a Syloxi silicon hairspring patented and manufactured by Rolex. Insensitive to magnetic fields (from electronic devices, for example), the Syloxi hairspring is extremely stable in the event of temperature changes and remains up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. Its patented geometry ensures its regularity in any position.
WHAT’S CHANGED The iconic design has survived more than half a century of fashion trends and expanded its offerings of dials and bracelets. The many faces of the LadyDateJust now include shimmering dials pavéd with diamonds or the lustrous hues of mother-of-pearl, simple or gem-set hour markers and your choice of a fluted, domed or diamond-set bezel. Bracelets are crafted in Oyster steel, 18 ct yellow, white and Everose gold or gem-set platinum.
THE FANS Famous enthusiasts include Rihanna, Jennifer Aniston and tennis great Chris Evert. Hollywood superstars like Sophia Loren and Grace Kelly (Princess Grace The Lady-Datenus Yellow Rolfers
of Monaco) wore yellow gold versions of the Lady-DateJust.
15 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
A smart investment opportunity
Swiss Timepieces Four noted fine watch experts share their opinions on what to buy now RIGHT NOW, BUYING A NEW WATCH COULD BE ONE OF THE
Case in point: Patek Philippe’s Nautilus. Their original design, from 1976,
smartest investments anyone can make. It’s a purchase that can be
with the rounded octagonal shape of its bezel, brought a certain ele-
worn and enjoyed, and eventually even sold at a nice profit. The prices
gance to the sport watch category that continues. “It is sought-after
paid at auction for vintage (ie, “pre-owned”) watches are breaking all
today,” Boutros claims, and another reason, besides its good looks is
records. Six figures, seven, even
“it’s recognizable. That’s key to its appeal.” And it’s the key to any status
eight are not uncommon. Buying a
symbol: a design so distinctive it can be instantly identified.
new watch as a money-maker to
Another ongoing classic that could make a good investment, Bou-
sell later is becoming as good an
tros maintains, is “Audemars Piguet’s latest reference of their Royal Oak,
investment as snapping up a
15202, and their Perpetual Calendar Royal Oak model.” These updates
Lamborghini Miura, Birkin bag or
of “original watches from the 1970s remain highly relevant in terms of
pair of Air Jordans.
style and the case shape.” The first Royal Oak shook up the industry with
Paul Boutros
“It’s a good time to buy a
its unique, signature octagonal bevel anchored with 8 hexagonal
great watch,” says Paul Boutros, head of watches, Americas, for Phillips,
screws, and the novel grid pattern on its dial. “Its masculine aesthetic
arguably the global leader in watch auctions. “In times of uncertainty
has stood the test of time; demand for these
people look for safe havens for their money. Right now conditions are
modern versions in boutiques proves that.”
favorable for putting money into hard assets as a hedge.” And, like gold,
It’s a track record that bodes well for the
one of the best hedges right now is a new watch.
watch maintaining if not increasing its
But not just any watch. Knowing which one to purchase now that might reap a huge reward if eventually sold is a tricky business. The
value in the future. Boutros also thinks no one can go
heads of the watch departments at the world’s top auction houses are
wrong buying a stainless steel Rolex.
the likeliest to know, because their job is to evaluate, accept, and then
“They are relevant for today’s lifestyle, as
sell watches that one day were brand new, and have, over time, become
more people are dressing casual, whether on
more valuable. These experts have the most informed advice on the
Zoom meetings or even at the office with busi-
best new watches to buy right now.
ness casual. Rolex’s Submariner, GMT-Master II, and Daytona are
When buying a new timepiece Boutros advises that “blue chip watches may be good investments” and suggests buyers “look for classic, timeless styles from proven brands. They have enduring
Rolex GMT-Master II
graceful evolutions true to the originals that have been produced continually to today.” They have proven to hold their appeal, and their value. Another big fan of Rolex sports models is Richard Lopez, senior
value.” And that’s especially true if they have been given exciting new
specialist of watches at Sotheby’s in New York. “They continue to be
up-to-the-minute twists.
popular among seasoned collectors as well as new collectors just get16 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner
Patek Philippe Calatrava
ting into the watch game.” Meaning, if
that Patek used for this model is intended to resemble handwritten char-
you buy one now, you’ll likely find a col-
acters, something that has not really been seen before.”
lector who will want to buy it from you in
Richard Lopez
He singles out some other brands as well to invest in, zeroing in on
the future. Examples that Lopez be-
“specific models that have the potential to hold
lieves will hold or up their value include
or even grow in value.” From Tudor he rec-
“the Steel Green Submariner ‘Hulk’, the
ommends “the Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
Steel Ceramic Daytona Ref. 116500LN, Steel GMT Ceramic "Pepsi"
Navy Blue that was recently introduced
126710 BLRO, and the Steel GMT Ceramic "Batman" 126710BLNR.”
could also be a good contender. Collectors
Steel models from other watch houses are good investments too,
love blue dials, in my experience, and this
Lope z maintains. “Steel models by Patek Philippe and Audemars Pi-
could be a long-term winner – even the origi-
guet are extremely sought after and rare, yielding the highest returns. Ex-
nal black-dialed Fifty-Eight is still a good po-
amples of current Patek Philippe models to invest in include the Steel Aquanaut Ref.
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
tential variant.”
Tudor Black Bay 58
When buying a new watch with its long-
5167, Steel Nautilus Ref. 5711, and Steel
term investment value in mind, Rebecca Ross, Christie’s watch special-
Calatrava Ref. 5522. Audemars Piguet
ist in New York, says “rarity is a big factor. If there are fewer of the
examples include the Steel Royal Oak on
watches made, the watch will keep its resale value.” She singles out “the
bracelet and Steel Royal Oak Chrono on
independent watchmaker F.P. Journe which makes less than 900
bracelet.”
watches per year, which compared to other brands is very low. F.P.
Brandon Frazin, plays the same role at
Journe is also having a significant moment right now with a number of
the influential watch website Hodinkee as
his older watches, so I would not be surprised if some current models
do the pros at the auction houses; he is the
from the brand go up in the future.”
vintage manager and must decide which
Ross also says “look for watches that
watches to accept for sale, and he knows which watches sell well. Fra-
are not run of the mill productions, that
zin is another believer that sports watches are good investments these
have details others do not.” And keep all
days. As more people are working from home, a business suit and tie
paperwork at the point of purchase. “All
are becoming things of the past.
modern watches should have their doc-
Within the sports watch category, Frazin put his faith in Rolex. He
umentation, so make sure you keep the
advises new purchasers to “consider
Rebecca Ross
the models most everyone is aware of,
increases the value of the watch down the line when it’s sold.
including sport models like the Day-
boxes and papers.” Documentation
More good advice, from Ross: “Look after the watch you buy.
tona, the GMT-Master II, the Subma-
Service it regularly, every 3 to 5 years, and change nothing. You want
riner, and the Sea-Dweller.”
all the parts, the case, the dial and the movement to be as original as
And he believes in another blue chip
possible.” Also, she points out that before purchasing any new watch,
Brandon Frazin
industry leader, Patek Philippe. “Look
especially if it’s hoped it will be a good investment, it’s important to
for sport watches from other prestigious Swiss brands like Patek Phi-
educate yourself. “Come to auctions, take a seat and read the cata-
lippe, with the Nautilus and Aquanaut,” he advises. “And the Patek Phi-
logues. That’s a great way to learn about the market, and it’s a lot of
lippe Calatrava ref. 5212. It's an interesting design that is cased in steel
fun. You’re always welcome.”
and features a unique complication: the weekly calendar. The typeface
And she advises, as do all the pros: buy what you love.
18 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
The
5
most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction
The most expensive watch ever sold at auction was the
for wristwatches at regular auctions,
$31 million paid for the one-off Patek Philippe Grandmaster
which have reached incredible highs as
Chime sold at the 2019 Christie’s-run Only Watch auction
well. The top prices ever paid for watches
in Geneva. That was a charity event, and prices are
sold at auction should inspire any watch
always unusually high in the name of doing good.
lover to buy a new one with the potential
The prices that interest most collectors are those paid
to sell it later, and retire.
$17,752,500 $9,008,856 $5,937,500
Rolex Paul Newman Daytona, Phillips New York 2017. Arguably, the most famous timepiece in the world.
Patek Philippe World Time in 18K pink gold with double-signed dial, Christie's Hong Kong 2019. One of only seven 2523 dual-crown world time wristwatches believed to have been issued in pink gold. and only the fifth to be offered at auction.
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6265 ‘The Unicorn’, Phillips Geneva 2018. Called ‘The Unicorn’ because of its rarity, being the only known white gold manual-winding Daytona ever produced.
$5,708,885
Patek Philippe18K gold perpetual calendar chronograph with moonphase, Christies Geneva 2010. Only one other single-signed example is known to exist.
$11,002,000
Patek Philippe ref. 1518 perpetual calendar chronograph in stainless steel, CHF, Phillips Geneva 2016. It is the first perpetual calendar with chronograph functions. 19 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Redefining Luxury Inside Patek Phillipe's new headquarters PATEK PHILLIPE MAY BE A VENERABLE BRAND, ESTABLISHED in 1839, but the company's new Geneva headquarters couldn't be
the impression is that of a huge ocean liner. Inside the building is divided into five main areas. Both the
more modern, bringing all the stages of fine watchmaking under
ground and first floor are designated for watch production. The
one 1.2 million-square-foot roof. With 10 floors (five above ground,
second floor houses the ateliers responsible for machining,
four below), walls and walls of glass windows (abundant daylight is
manual polishing, gemsetting and the assembly of cases,
a must) and white concrete passageways along the entire facade,
bracelets and other exterior parts. The restoration of antique
20 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
White concrete passageways along the entire facade give the impression of a huge ocean liner.
The limited edition Calatrava
timepieces also takes place here. The third floor is home to de-
with a fantastic panoramic view of the bucolic landscape and
partments such as research and development, haute hor-
nearby mountains.
logerie and prototyping and the fourth floor is where rare
To celebrate this move into their new headquarters, Patek
handcrafting skills, including manual engraving, enameling and
Phillipe also introduced a limited edition Calatrava watch
guilloching, are performed. The fifth floor is crowned by a pent-
(1,000 units) — a seriously sporty model, and not unlike the
house restaurant for 880 guests as well as four VIP lounges, all
company's new digs, redefines luxury.
21 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Luxury SUVS OUR 2021 PREVIEW
Bentley Bentayga Hybrid 22 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Luxury SUV's are bigger, faster and some come with all the comforts of a private jet
Lamborghini Urus THE SUV SCRAMBLED UP 5,000 FEET AND AROUND 164 CORNERS AVERAGING 66 MPH to the top of historic Pikes Peak in 10 minutes and 49 seconds. A world’s record for any vehicle in that climb. And the SUV was a Bentley. A what? Yes, the Bentley Bentayaga, one of the world’s most expensive SUV’s with a starting price of $300,000, a top end of 190 mph on the highway and a head-turning 3.8 seconds in 0-60 with an optional 626-horsepower 12-cylinder engine Bentley is just one of the big-name, top-dollar luxury-car manufacturers turning out SUV’s that 23 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
SUV’s are outselling sedans two to one, with all the luxury add-ons and safety features of sedans plus more cargo space and better views. with new technology can jam up and down hills, win highway drag
bounce a bit while drinking a glass of Champagne from the $47,000
races or coddle you as you drive around town in extreme luxury and
optional cooler, while sitting in specially padded $27,000 “sanctuary
with the ultimate in safety add-ons.
seats” in the back.
Luxury SUVs offer an extraordinary driving experience combined with more cargo space and better views. That’s why SUVs are out-
The wildest and crazy-cool looking SUV is the $222,004, 664 hp Lamborghini Urus in outrageous orange paint it calls Arancio Borealis
selling sedans two to one. Seats that massage, heat and ventilate with 22-way power set-
Lamborghini Urus
tings (an extra $11,855 on the Bentley) along with 20-speaker sound
ENGINE:
POWER:
TOP SPEED:
systems, 10.2-inch touch-screen infotainment displays, self-parking,
2.7-liter, turbocharged V-8
654 hp
170 MPH
0-60:
BASE PRICE:
3.8 sec
$222,004
Bluetooth, GPS navigation and a multitude of safety features like pedestrian detectors that will slam on the brakes if you don’t — are all available with the top-end models. Some have hybrid assistance. All that, in addition to the extra bulk, typically means mileage of between
Bentley Bentayga Hybrid ENGINE:
POWER:
4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8
641 hp
TOP SPEED:
190 MPH
0-60:
BASE PRICE:
3.2 sec
$300,000
with a matching interior. It still looks like a Lambo racing sedan, very sleek and mean, but it can tow 7,000 pounds and it can equal Bentley’s 190 mph top end. Plus it has an adjustable suspension and can raise or lower itself by six inches to accommodate terrain. Another luxurious and very popular all-terrain SUV is the Mercedes AMG G63, starting at $259,000. It has three different locking differentials and a low-range gear, which means it can tackle any 12 and 20 per gallon, so prepare to open your wallet at the gas tank. And if the Bentley Bentayaga doesn’t suit you, how about a Rolls Royce Black Badge Cullinan? It’s named for the largest diamond (3,107.6 carats) ever discovered, found in 1906 in South Africa, now
steep grade very, very slowly, or turn that off and zip from zero to 60 in under five seconds while all five of you are sitting in contoured Nappa leather seats and enjoying a massage. And opt for the roof with obsidian black metallic paint for $1,100
safely locked up in the Tower of London and worth about $2 billion.
extra, and a matching obsidian black ring around the spare-tire
The Rolls has a bare-bones starting price of $382,000.
housing on the back for an extra $1,000, and a carbon fiber engine
It’s not as fast as the Bentley with a top end of only 155, but with a plusher ride and almost equal off-road capability if you’re willing to
cover for $1,500. When you lift the hood, this Mercedes should look serious.
24 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
Mercedes AMG G63
machine, a PlayStation and the most luxurious seating imaginable. But it is so heavy — over nineteen feet long and eight feet wide — the
ENGINE:
POWER:
TOP SPEED:
4.0-liter, turbocharged V-8
550 hp
150 MPH
0-60:
BASE PRICE:
4.8 sec
$259,000
top end is a meager 87 miles an hour. If you’re not worried about getting attacked by an infantry platoon, you can always settle for offerings by Maserati, Ford, Porsche, BMWX7 and just about every other manufacturer. But most do not have much standard off-road capability and are typically used around town or for long-distance travel. For example, the $100,000+BMWX7 needs a $1,650 optional off-road package with skid plates and
Karlman King TOP SPEED:
ENGINE:
POWER:
6.8-liter, twinturbocharged V-10
360 Hp
87 MPH
0-60:
BASE PRICE:
N/A
$1.9 million
There are many other SUV’s to choose from, far less expensive than the ultra-luxurious and super-fast, among them the all-American Jeep, nastier-looking than ever in the $43,895 Gladiator Rubicon model, which is bigger than the Wrangler you’re used to seeing. It comes with extra storage capacity and an optional three-piece $2,295 body-paint-coordinated hard top. An unusual feature is the $595 forward-facing camera so on the 8.4-inch touch screen, you can see objects on the trail or forest floor as close as two feet in front of you and provide a view of distance as well. And how about going camping with your SUV? Hit the trail in a $72,895 Ford King Ranch with an optional $369 9-foot by 9-foot
push-button driving modes labeled sand, gravel, rocks and snow.
Sportz Tent by Napier that attaches to the cargo rear and sleeps four
Now that is entitled luxury.
to six people. It has a waterproof floor, lantern holder, two entrance
And here’s an unexpected entry.
doors, storm flaps and mesh windows. And the SUV seats eight,
Ferrari. Yes, the renowned racecar and hypersport manufacturer
with power folding heated rear seats.
will be coming out with an SUV, the Purosangue, in 2022. Specifica-
Meanwhile, if you want to buy the most expensive SUV ever
tions have not been announced, but the word is it’s likely to have a
made, the $1.9 million Karlmann King, designed in China and assem-
turbocharged V-8 with hybrid assistance and to pump out around
bled almost completely by hand in Italy can be ordered from the
650 horsepower.
company, but only about 10 have been made so far. It’s a beast at
Starting price is estimated at $350,000.
10,580 pounds, has optional bulletproofing, a refrigerator, a coffee
Get in line.
25 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
It’s COMPLICATED Great selections from our Patek Philippe collection 1925 With model 97 975, Patek Philippe introduced its first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar. Originally, a ladies' pendant watch made in 1898, it was transformed into a wristwatch that indicates the day of the month. The golden hand centered on the dial jumps correctly from one month to the next — even in a leap year. A subdial at 6 o'clock indicates the month.
PERPETUAL CALENDAR Ref. 5320G. Patek Philippe has recently introduced a new self-winding perpetual calendar with a vintage-style case. It has three-tier lugs as well as a lacquered cream dial graced with luminous numerals and hands. The timepiece was inspired by exhibitions in the Patek Philippe Museum from the 1940s and '50s. Its heart is a newly developed caliber 324 with double apertures for the day/month and an analog date.
World Time watches are more important than ever in our globally networked lives. In 2000, Patek Philippe introduced its new World Time watch Ref. 5110, which indicates local time in all 24 of the world's time zones at a single glance. Its convenient readability and comfortable single-pusher mechanism for simultaneously advancing all time zones by one hour are protected by two patents granted in 1999. 26 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
1940 saw the debut of the World Time Watch 1415 — a standout for its cloisonné dials — which today ranks among the most popular timepieces at auctions. The ingenious World Time mechanism was invented by the Geneva watchmaker Louis Cottier in 1931 and later refined and patented by Patek Philippe. In the first generation of these watches, the disk of the cities was fixed. The customer ordered the watch with his hometown as the reference city positioned at 12 o'clock.
WORLD TIME Ref.5930G. Combining a time display — in 24 different time zones — and a 30-minute flyback chronograph within the same watch, Patek Philippe has achieved this through their caliber CH 28-520 HU — an ultra-thin self-winding mechanical movement that is a mere 3.88mm thick. The watch itself is only 12mm thick. To activate the world-timer, all you have to do is press the button at 10 o'clock to advance the time zone — which is indicated at 12 o'clock.
IN THE WORLD OF FINE SWISS WATCHES, ANY MECHANISM
Patek Philippe in creating complications that are so handy to
that tells more than just the time and date is called a complica-
have in everyday situations. Now don't get us wrong; the
tion. Every year, watch companies introduce models where they
company has created some of the most elaborate watches
pack more and more complications into one watch. It's the
ever produced, including the Sky Moon Tourbillon with 13
pinnacle of the watchmaker's art. But it's the extra functions like
amazing complications. But here we take a look back at
perpetual calendars, annual calendars, dual time zones and
some of their earlier horological accomplishments and how
world time displays that have set the foundation for modern
the new generation has evolved. You can see why Patek
watchmaking and continue to be the most useful.
Philippe is known for being at the forefront of high-complica-
And no company can match the expertise and tradition of
1996 After two years of prototypes, on-wrist tests and numerous quality and accuracy assessments. the first Ref. 5035 Annual Calendar made its debut at the Basel Watch and Jewelry Show in Geneva. A year later it was voted the Swiss Watch of the Year and the applause hasn't stopped yet. This was the first timepiece to bridge the gap between a simple calendar and the mechanically elaborate perpetual calendar, creating a new category in complications that are dependable, easy to operate and useful in everyday situations.
tion watches.
ANNUAL CALENDAR
2009 The first Patek Philippe chronograph movement completely crafted in-house. It is hand wound and has a classic column wheel as well as a horizontal clutch. The CH 29-535 PS caliber premiered with this Ladies First chronograph Ref. 7071 and is to replace all future models formerly equipped with the outsourced caliber CH 27-70 movement.
After 20 years, the patented annual calendar continues to be a success story and one of Patek Philippe's flagship models. Indicating the day of the week, the date and the month, and requiring correction only once a year, the Ref. 5905R offers a choice of different displays and nuances of style, combining elegant lines and attention to finish. It is also the pinnacle of precision, incorporating new shock-resistant, antimagnetic silcon-based technologies that have set totally new standards for reliability. 27 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE
CHRONOGRAPH Ref. 7150/250R-001 – Ladies’ Chronograph in rose gold with silvery opaline dial and gold applied Breguet numerals. 72 diamonds: ~0.78 ct. (bezel). 27 diamonds: ~0.21 ct. (prong buckle). Total 99 diamonds: ~0.99 ct. Featuring a mechanical, manually wound movement.
NUDO NECKLACES, EARRINGS, BRACELET AND RINGS; ANKLET FROM THE NEW 2020 RITRATTO COLLECTION; ICONICA BRACELET; BRACELET FROM THE NEW 2020 ICONICA COLLECTION; POMELLATO EYEWEAR
Italian STYLE Playful, colorful and bold Pomellato’s jubillant designs are the motivation you need to get dressed up again.
ICONICA CHOCKER, PENDANT, EARRINGS AND RING; BRACELETS AND RINGS FROM THE NEW 2020 ICONICA COLLECTION
NUDO NECKLACES AND RINGS; RINGS, NECKLACES FROM THE NEW 2020 NUDO COLLECTION; ICONICA BRACELETS
Understanding
Watch Speak
The world of watches is complicated. In fact the word for all that goes on inside a watch to make it tick is “complications.” Complications are intricate mechanisms that enhance a watch movement, also known as a caliber. They provide information other than simply keeping time. To try and uncomplicate the complications, here's a quick guide to some commonly used terms illustrated from our Patek Philippe Collection:
GUILLOCHÉ The decorative art of guilloché is one of the traditional crafts of watchmaking. It consists of engraving a dial or case with intricate patterns, from sunbursts to geometric shapes. It adds eyecatching flair to a timepiece and depth to the dial.
Ref # 5230R-012
GRAND COMPLICATION Grand complications include timepieces with the most complicated functions including minute repeaters, split-second chronographs and perpetual calendars. Ref # 5270J-001 (shown at right) also includes moon phases, leap year and day/night indication.
Ref # 5270J-001
MOONPHASE In the 16th century the need for a moonphase watch dial arose for travelers. A full moon meant a lighter sky and safety when planning an overnight journey. The moonphase mechanism consists of a 30-toothed disc. The disc has two gold-colored moons opposite each other on the disc, surrounded by gold- colored stars on a blue background. As the days pass, the moon will appear from the left side of the window. Ref # 5146G-010
POWER RESERVE
Ref # 5960/01G-001 (detail)
The first wristwatch with the power reserve mechanism was created by Breguet in 1933. However, this was only a prototype with only one watch assembled. Today certain models like the Flyback Chronograph (shown) have an extended power reserve of 45 hours. The power reserve indicator on the dial lets the wearer know how much energy the watch still has, like the gas gauge on your automobile.
CHRONOGRAPH A chronograph, the most common complication, is a type of watch with a built-in stopwatch feature. A separate hand can be started, stopped and returned to zero to measure elapsed time to one-fifth, tenth or even hundredth of a second. A chronograph typically has two to three subdials and a return- to-zero button, or pusher, on the side of the case. The top pusher starts and stops the chronograph; the bottom pusher resets it. Ref # 7150/250R-001
PERPETUAL CALENDAR A perpetual calendar displays the date, day, month, an d year, automatically adjusting for leap year and the length of the month. It will only need adjusting for the rare years in which a leap year is due but doesn't take place, the next being the year 2100 and then 2400.
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Ref # 5327G-001
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Designer Spotlight Italy’s Giuseppe Picchiotti is the master of gemstones
Founded in 1967 by Giuseppe Picchiotti, the PICCHIOTTI brand has been hand-crafting luxury fine jewelry in the heart of Valenza, Italy for over 50 years.
Giuseppe Picchiotti, whose home base is Valenza Italy, runs the company with his wife, Matilde, and their three children, Maria, Filippo and Umberto.
MOST ARTISTS USE PAINT AS THEIR MEDIUM. Giuseppe Picchiotti creates his exquisite masterpieces from colorful gemstones and diamonds. Known for mixing large stones with smaller calibrated diamonds, particularly square and baguette cuts, he recently introduced another innovation: expandable diamond rings and bangles, incorporating hidden technology that allow the pieces to slide on and off easily, stay on firmly and never lose their elasticity. The rings expand up to two sizes, so they'll slip over knuckles and fit different finger sizes — even if the wearer changes sizes over the years. Brilliant!
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The Xpandable Collection includes exquisite eternity rings, fashion rings and bracelets.
Style Staples Jewelry you can wear every day Aria Cascade Ring
“
WHETHER YOU WANT TO PUNCH UP A LITTLE BLACK DRESS OR ELEVATE A
I love the way the cocktail ring has transitioned to
turtleneck or tee, there are certain go-to pieces that are as easy and effortless to
something you can wear every day. While it should be
slip on as a pair of jeans. “And with more people working from home and Zoom
big and catch the eye, it should also feel like an extension of your hand and not a clunky piece weighing you
meetings on the rise, accessorizing is more im-
down. It's also fun to wear a bunch together." portant than ever,” says our owner, Jill Moretti, who picked these everyday-wearable trends from our Melissa Kaye collection. Diamond studs with a twist Crisp, clean and timeless, diamond studs will pop on a video conference call, and they brighten the complexion. You can't go wrong with a classic diamond solitaire, but also look for fresh, fun designs. If you Melissa Kaye
have multiple piercings, mixing two or more cool
shapes makes for an engaging stack. Elegant hoops Hoops are always in fashion, and they go with just about everything. What's new about them is that they're getting bigger and bolder for an extra measure of casual chic. And if you have multiple piercings, pile on a couple in different sizes or contrasting stones for a power look. The cool earring Earrings are the answer to anyone who wants to build versatility in her work-from-home wardrobe. And the cool and sexy stiletto shape is an easy Aria Jane Ring
way to change up your look. Statement-making rings Rings, also in pumped-up sizes, have an air of effortless cool. It's the fastest way to elevate any outfit — no matter how casual. It's also fun to wear a few together. A pendant necklace A nameplate necklace is a classic but also look for shapes and designs that reflect your personality — something that will mix and match with other necklaces you own.
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“
A diamond pendant is an easy way to change your look and be ready for any occasion.”
“
One of my favorite style staples is the Aria Neclace. Not
only is the long, slender shape neck-flattering and sexy, you'll
Aria Necklace
find it very versatile. These pendants won't look out of place during the day and are equally appropriate if you're going to a more formal event."
“
Anyone building an earring
collection should have some version of the dagger.
Aria Stiletto Earring
“
I admit, ear cuffs may not be for everyone. Then again, I
can't tell you how many women have been converted once they try one on. You don't need an extra piercing, they slip Aria Dagger Huggie Hoop
over the ear and hug it. I always wear one on one ear, but you can create your own look and wear multiple cuffs on one or both ears if you like."
“
I’ve always been a hoop girl. A
round hoop is a classic, but I wanted to come up with a hoop that had a little twist. The longer marquis shape looks good on everyone and you can see the diamonds from all angles."
Cristina Earring 39 MORETTI’S MAGAZINE