JEWELLERY BOX PRIVATE COLLECTIONS SHIRLEY HIRANAND, JILL HUI, JOANNE OOI
WINTER GLAMOUR / CELEBRITY WEDDINGS / JEWELLERY BOX: SHIRLEY HIRANAND / JILL HUI / JOANNE OOI no. 03
GLITTERATI PARTIES, GALAS AND PREMIERES
WEDDED GLITZ
MICHELLE REIS, CARINA LAU, KELLY CHEN AND ROLETTA LEE
DESIGNING MINDS
JAMES DE GIVENCHY GETS HIS WAY WITH DIAMONDS
bare
naked gems
Hong Kong: HK$50 Singapore: S$9 Malaysia: M$25 Thailand: B 225 Rest of the World: US$10
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2 PAGE 12 S N G I S G DE ’S DARIN R E T N I 4 NS W LLECTIO E 13 G A NEW CO P EER H C 2 14 IDAY L O E H G THE PA 2 D A S T RE 15 P E S R S GE EC FER F S A U P ST H S ING TC K A C D W STO IR ON E M H T A D DI AN BY EN M D WO LE S Z W Z VIE DA R TE ES IN H C AT W Y C I
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EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR LOU CORPUZ DEPUTY EDITOR EMILIE YABUT-RAZON PROJECT EDITOR RESHAM ARON WRITER PRIYANKA BOGHANI EDITORIAL ASSISTANT ASHLEY LIM ART CREATIVE DIRECTOR DAVIDE BUTSON-FIORI ART DIRECTOR HAYMOND YIP SENIOR DESIGNER JIMMY WANG IN-HOUSE PHOTOGRAPHERS JASON TO, TERRY TSUI PRODUCTION PRODUCTION DIRECTOR ANNE MOK ASSISTANT PRODUCTION MANAGER VINCENT MA PRODUCTION COODINATOR RAY TAM MARKETING & ADVERTISING MANAGING DIRECTOR, GREATER CHINA RODDY YU BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR JENNIFER SIU MARKETING DIRECTOR SANDY HO ADVERTISEMENT DIRECTOR COTY LO ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER ANGEL WONG SALES AND MARKETING MANAGER KITTY TAM SPECIAL PROJECTS MANAGER LILIAN LAU MARKETING WRITER GLORIA FUNG ADVERTISEMENT PRODUCTION ASSISTANTS SARAH HO, KELLY KO EDIPRESSE ASIA GENERAL MANAGER, REGIONAL OPERATIONS DORIS MUI REGIONAL FINANCIAL CONTROLLER SELVAMANI LOGANATHAN CIRCULATION MANAGER MICHEL LAMUNIÉRE CEO AND PUBLISHER BARRIE C GOODRIDGE
ON THE COVER: GOLD AND SILVER DIAMOND BANGLES BY AISHWARYA FROM LANE CRAWFORD, CC SKYE DIAMOND-SHAPED EARRINGS FROM ON PEDDER HAIR: COONEY LAI FOR P.O.P. HAIRDRESSING MAKEUP: ANGIE PASLEY MODEL: EUGENIA FROM MODEL GENESIS PHOTOGRAPHY: dbFIORI
PUBLISHED BY EDIPRESSE HONG KONG LTD Edipresse Hong Kong Ltd is a member of the Edipresse Group (www.edipresse.com) 6/F, Guardian House, 32 Oi Kwan Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2547 7117 Fax: (852) 2858 2671 E-mail: enquiry@edipresse.com.hk Printed by SNP Leefung Printers (Shenzhen) Co, Ltd, SNP Leefung Printing Building, No. 1 Nangguang Road, Nanshan Zone, Shenzhen, P.R.C. Tel +0755 2664 5100 Fax +0755 8606 3655. All rights reserved © 2008 Edipresse Hong Kong Ltd All materials published remain the property of Edipresse Hong Kong Ltd. Opinions expressed in SPARKLE are solely those of the writers and are not necessarily endorsed by the publisher and its editors. Manuscripts and photographs submitted to SPARKLE should be accompanied by self-addressed envelopes with return postage. While they will take reasonable care, the editors assume no responsibility for the return of unsolicited manuscripts or photographs. Single copy HK$ 50.
GLITTERATI PEOPLE EVENTS
INTERVIEWS CELEBRITIES
FACES PARTIES BLING
JEWELLERY BOX JILL HUI CARTIER TIFFANY & CO.
SPARKLE PEOPLE
JOANNE OOI SHIRLEY
HIRANAND KELLY CHEN
CARINA LAU MICHELLE REIS
ONE OF A KIND JAMES
DE GIVENCHY SWAROVSKI ENLIGHTENED
SOTHEBY’S DIAMONDS
INDIAN JEWELLERY A FABULOUS FEAST OF GEMS DE BEERS GARRARD ARTE DE
GRISOGONO AISHWARYA
JEWELS OF DESIRE
NEW COLLECTIONS
BvLGARi CHANEL BOUCHERON
SP ARKLE STYLE HARRY WINSTON PIAGET QEELIN
GRAFF CHAUMET christian
DIOR CHOP ARD STYLE ICON EDWIN SIU
FABULOUS OUTFITS
ACCESSORIES DELUXE
THE LATEST TIMEPIECES
sparkleeventsdiary
14
CATHAY PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL RACES HONG KONG
also KnoWn as The Turf World Championships, the Cathay Pacific International Races continues to be a crowd-pleaser as teams from around the world compete in four different events, ranging from the Vase (2,400m) to the Sprint (1,200m). Held at the Sha Tin Racecourse, organisers are promising a range of funfilled activities for racing fans, including the popular Cathay Pacific International Jockeys Championship at Happy Valley racecourse and the unique Hong Kong International Sale of thoroughbreds at the Sha Tin racecourse’s Parade Ring. Excellent prize money is at stake, with last year’s winnings reaching HK$62 million (approx US$ 8 million.) www.hkjc.com
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HOME FOR CHRISTMAS HONG KONG
sWedish meZZo-soprano Anne Sofie von Otter is celebrating Christmas in Hong Kong with a debut appearance at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre. Regarded as one of the finest singers of her generation, Anne Sofie has won the prestigious Gramophone Awards. She will perform a series of Scandinavian and traditional Christmas carols with her band, the ‘Merry Swedish Gentlemen,’ and acclaimed pianist partner Bengt Forsberg. www.lcsd.gov.hk/cp
20-23
The macau JeWellery & WaTch fair, January edition is a sparkling kick-off to the New Year. Asia’s first and only international watch and jewellery trade fair has become a new marketplace for the world’s jewel business since its debut. The 2008 edition featured over 500 exhibitors from 25 countries and regions. This year the fair takes a ‘Las Vegas’ turn in Macau, bringing business and entertainment together in one international event. exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com hong Kong-born soprano nancy yuen, along with Chinese soprano Wu Guoling and local soprano Yuki Ip, will perform Puccini’s Madama Butterfly under the direction of local producer Lo King-man. Expect a full house for one of the most popular and best-loved operas of all time. www.lcsd.gov.hk/cp
DeC JAIPUR JEWELLERY SHOW JAIPUR, INDIA
JaN 7-10 JB GROUP CLASSIC 2009 HONG KONG
india’s second largesT JeWellery shoW will be held at the Pink City. JJS showcases crafts and gems from Jaipur, the world-famous hub of coloured gemstones. Since 2003 it has successfully brought together key buyers and suppliers of jewellery, gems and related products. www.jaipurjewelryshow.com
hong Kong’s biggesT tennis tournament is also known for its high glamour quotient. The JB Group Classic 2009 features the world’s top players in a showdown of four teams. Europe, Russia, the Americas and AsiaPacific will be battling for the Cup as superstars Maria Sharapova, Venus Williams, Jelena Jankovic and Sania Mirza lead their teams in singles and doubles matches at Victoria Park. www.jbgroupclassic.com
JaN 19-23 SALON INTERNATIONAL DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE GENEVA, SWITZERLAND
held each year in geneva, SIHH is a glittering showcase of haute horlogerie from Cartier, Panerai, Audemars Piguet and other luxury brands of the Richemont Group. The event is by invitation only and it draws watch professionals as well as buyers and connoisseurs. For the first time since its inception in 1991, SIHH will not coincide with the show dates of the Basel watch fair. www.sihh.org
JaN 21-24 20TH INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO (IJT 2009) JAPAN
inTernaTional JeWellery ToKyo is celebrating its 20th anniversary in 2009 and it promises to be its best year ever. A record 1,760 exhibitors from 35 countries are expected, including 200 first-time participants. IJT will launch nine new special zones to make room for more visitors and exhibitors. www.ijt.jp
23-24
JaN A VIENNESE ODYSSEY WITH DAVID ZINMAN HONG KONG
be TransporTed To vienna, one of the world’s greatest music capitals, as much sought-after conductor David Zinman performs masterpieces from Richard Strauss, Gustav Mahler and Anton Webern with the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra. Zinman is the chief conductor of the Tonhalle Orchestra in Zurich as well as the artistic director of the famed Aspen Music Festival. www.hkpo.com
JaN 26 CATHAY PACIFIC INTERNATIONAL CHINESE NEW YEAR NIGHT PARADE HONG KONG
organised by The hong Kong Tourism board and sponsored by Cathay Pacific Airways, the International Chinese New Year Night Parade is the best way to welcome the Year of the Ox. The first day of the New Year is celebrated with a fantastic night parade featuring floats, marching bands and performers. www.hktb.com
feb 2-8 HONG KONG SALSA FESTIVAL
one of The biggesT salsa evenTs in asia, the Salsa Festival has grown from a one-day event when it was launched in 2002 to a week-long extravaganza of performances, competitions and parties. Last year, more than 300 participants and performers from around the world attended the festival in Hong Kong, and more than 3,500 tickets were sold for the various events. Live band performances, an Asian salsa open competition, street parties, workshops and much more await the participants of the 2009 “7 Days of Salsa Dance Extravaganza.” www.hksalsafestival.com
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currenTly on iTs 16Th ediTion, JMA Hong Kong is the perfect year-end event for fine jewellery lovers looking to do some last-minute shopping before Christmas and the New Year. One of Asia’s major jewellery shows, the event is always well-attended and last year’s show attracted close to 10,000 local and international visitors. Jewellery designers from all over the world come to Hong Kong to showcase their finest pieces with 300 exhibitors expected this year. Guests can also view the special pavillions and product showcases and check out the trend seminars. www.jewelryshows.org
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JaN 8-11 MACAU JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR
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JaN 2-4 MADAMA BUTTERFLY 2009 HONG KONG
sparkleeventsdiary
feb 6-mar 8 THE 37TH HONG KONG ARTS FESTIVAL 2009 The HONG KONG ARTS FESTIVAL is an annual celebration of various forms of art in the Asia-Pacific region, providing a platform from which to showcase the best international talent, as well as local emerging artists. This year HKAF features 37 performing groups and presents over 150 shows and related events, including performances from the world’s leading orchestras, traditional and contemporary opera houses, theatre groups and much more. www.hk.artsfestival.org
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STANDARD CHARTERED HONG KONG MARATHON 2009 HONG KONG
The city’s largest participatory sporting event, the Standard Chartered Hong Kong Marathon brings further excitement to runners in 2009 with new races and bigger prize money, raising the previous year’s US$70,000 by 40 percent (to US$100,000) for the full marathon. A half-marathon challenge where participants will compete for the best time under 2 hours, 15 minutes and 1 second is also open to runners over 16 years of age. The participant quota for this year is 55,000 and the marathon will be run on the same course as last year. www.hkmarathon.com
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THE PEONY PAVILION HONG KONG
Seven years after the internationally acclaimed ballet Raise the Red Lantern was performed at the Hong Kong Arts Festival, the National Ballet of China brings another masterpiece to Hong Kong. The Peony Pavilion, written by Tang Xianzu during the Ming Dynasty, is one the most passionate love stories in China and is a dramatic interplay of love, death and resurrection. www.hk.artsfestival.org
feb 27-mar 1 LADY MACBETH OF MTSENSK HONG KONG
An opera banned in the Soviet Union for nearly 30 years, Dmitri Shostakovich’s powerful masterpiece brings infidelity, murder, suicide and longing to the stage. The Latvian National Opera produced the play in 2006 to commemorate the composer’s centenary anniversary. The foradults-only masterpiece will make its debut during the 37th Hong Kong Arts Festival. www.hk.artsfestival.org
feb 28-mar 3 MACAU INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY & WATCH FAIR expected to be The most eyecatching show in “Asia’s Las Vegas” this February, MJS Macao is the largest jewellery fair held in the city. Last year over 500 exhibitors booths and more than 10,000 visitors participated in the four-day event. www.macaujewelryfair.com
mar 4-8 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW 2009
THE HKTDC INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW is the show to reconnect with your favourite jewellers and seek out the latest releases for the year. In the 2009 edition, the International Jewellery Design Excellence award will be given to a deserving exhibitor. Other highlights include fashion parades, colour and material trend seminars, market updates and workshops for new production techniques. hkjewellery.hktdc.com
mar 13-14 POETIC SONGS AND PLAYFUL WORDS HONG KONG DAVID ATHErton conducts the Hong Kong Philharmonic Orchestra to Britten’s intimate Serenade for Tenor, Horn and Strings, the Sinfonia de Requiem, and Walton’s Façade. Words and music meld into a perfect union as Britten’s choice of poems by Cotton, Tennyson, Blake, Jonson and Keats is transformed into melody by tenor Timothy Robinson, framed by strings and embellished by Mark Vines’ solo horn. The Sinfonia de Requiem was written as the world plunged into war, while Walton’s playful Façade swrounds the words of Edith Sitwell in the sonic aunbienceof the tango, fox-trot and Charleston. www.hkpo.com
sparkleeventsdiary
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feb THE LABÈQUE SISTERS HONG KONG
The neW yorK Times-acclaimed piano duo Katia and Marielle Labèque have performed with all of the world’s great orchestras, from Berlin and Vienna to Boston and Los Angeles, and their eclectic repertoire embraces everything from the baroque to today’s avant-garde. In their forthcoming appearance audiences will have the chance to listen to César Franck’s Symphony in D minor, a masterpiece written in Paris in the 1880s which stands almost entirely alone in French composition of the same period, from its mysterious opening to the blazing finale. www.hkpo.com
mar 23-aPr 13 HONG KONG INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL (HKIFF)
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BASELWORLD 2009 BASEL, SWITZERLAND
The World’s largesT fine WaTch and jewellery show with over 101,700 participating international retailers and manufacturers, BaselWorld is the perfect place to discover the latest innovations and developments in horology and gemology. This is when world-famous brands such as Patek Philippe, Omega, and Chopard reveal their new collections for the year. A show designed to give you a complete market overview of precious jewels and mechanical watch marvels, Basel World is an event not to be missed. (Image courtesy of MCH Swiss Exhibition Ltd) www.baselworld.com
mar
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HONG KONG SEVENS 2009
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one of The mosT-aWaiTed sporting events in the city, the world’s premier Rugby Sevens Tournament in Hong Kong will be held at the end of March. Tickets are always at a premium, as the games become the talk of the town for three days. www.hksevens.com
The hong Kong inTernaTional film fesTival is one of Asia’s most reputable platforms for filmmakers and actors from all over the word to launch new works, and for moviegoers to experience outstanding cinema. The HKIFF Society is a non-profit organisation which aims to develop Hong Kong’s film industry. In 2007 & 2008, the group extended its festival period to over 20 days to coincide with FILMART, the TV and movie trade show, as well as the Asian Film Awards. www.hkiff.org.hk
aPr 26 AUDEMARS PIGUET QUEEN ELIZABETH II CUP HONG KONG
sponsored by sWiss WaTchmaKer Audemars Piguet since 1999, the Queen Elizabeth II Cup is an annual 2,000-metre horserace with a total prize of HK$14 million. First run in Happy Valley in 1975 to commemorate a visit by Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, it has become an international event that attracts equestrians from around the world. www.hkjc.com
maY 1-31 LE FRENCH MAY HONG KONG The largesT french arTs fesTival in The asia-pacific region, Le French May showcases the best of French film, theatre, art, dance, literature, cuisine and music. In 2008, Le French May staged its largest festival in Hong Kong with a total of 39 events, and over 105,000 spectators. www.frenchmay.com
maY 16-20 CHARM VICENZA ITALY charm highlighTs The fusion between jewellery and fashion and puts the new-generation consumer at its centre. This May in Vicenza, the show will highlight the intersections of men’s and women’s jewellery as presented by 1,606 exhibitors, including 341 overseas participants. Expect to see a stunning spectrum of gold, platinum, silver costume jewellery, precious and semi-precious stones, pearls and much more. www.vicenzafiera.it
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Laid-back and looking good
Love Charity Cartier Event 1. Rihanna wearing a Levecharity Cartier bracelet set in 18k white gold and 18k rose gold 2. Emmy Rossum and Chloe Sevigny both in a pink Levecharity Cartier bracelet set in 18k white gold and 18k rose gold Qeelin Qin Qin Preview, The Pawn, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 3. Jolene Chow with the Wulo pendant in white and yellow gold with diamonds. Dennis Chan from Qeelin French Pablo Picasso: The Vallard Suite, Hong Kong 4. Tiffany Lee wearing a Jacob & Co watch exclusively carried by Masterpiece by King Fook 5 Josie Ho in a Stenzhorn diamond necklace and watch from Masterpiece by King Fook
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GLAM NIGHTS How the stylish set lights up the nights
Swarovski ‘Passages of the Night’ Party, Hong Kong 1. Candy Law in earrings, necklace and faceted bracelet from Daniel Swarovski Falls collection with layers of crystal rings and multi-coloured facted crystals Precious and delicious Italian Jewellery, Hong Kong 2. Bernice Liu wearing chocolate like jewellery Cartier Inde Mysterieuse Four Seasons Event, Hong Kong 3. Mara Rhomberg wearing pendant earrings and a necklace in white gold, diamonds and coloured stones from the Delices de Cartier collection 4. Cathy Tsui with a Cartier Inde Mysterieuse high jewellery necklace in platinum with round-cut and brilliant diamonds Graff Cocktail Party, Hong Kong 5. Junyi Tan wearing a Graff platinum and yellow gold white pear shaped diamond pendant on a yellow diamond necklace
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eMMys 2008 Red carpet looks are red-hot
1. Brooke Shields in dangling diamond earrings from Fred Leighton 2. Heidi Klum wearing butterfly earrings made of blackened platinum, lavender jade and diamonds from Lorraine Schwartz 3. Lisa Edelstein in a Poison Ivy Crystal Haze pendant from Stephen Webster strung on her own diamond chain 4. Christina Applegate wearing shoulder-dusting chandelier blackened platinum, diamond and amethyst earrings from Lorraine Schwartz 5. Rose Byrne with Fred Leighton gems including Edwardian double diamond strand over platinum and diamond chain necklaces; diamond studs and an emerald bead ring
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party fever Award nights and costume galas oh my!
Country Music Television Awards 1. Carrie Underwood wearing Frank Gehry Fluz earrings and an Elsa Peretti Bone cuff in sterling silver MTV Movie Awards 2. Jessica Alba with Tiffany hoop earrings of bead-set diamonds set in platinum New York Costume Institute Gala at the Metropolitan Museum, New York 3. Fergie wearing diamond drop Cartier earrings 4. America Ferrara wearing Art Deco Tiffany chandelier earrings of diamond set in platinum 5. Sofia Coppola with Van Cleef & Arpels’ 1936 yellow gold cuffs with diamonds and sapphires from the Private collection
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seeing stars Hot, hot, hurray! It’s Hollywood
Chopard Summer Party in Marbella 1. Eugenia Silva wearing an exquisite Chopard pink and white diamond necklace tiara and Bar Raffaelli wearing a delicate diamond Chopard necklace set with 164 carats of blue sapphire The Assassination of Jesse James Premiere, Toronto 2. Anjelina Jolie with Tiffany stud earrings and a matching solitaire pendant of diamonds set in platinum Hancock Tokyo Premiere, Japan 3. Charlize Theron wearing a sparkling diamond-studded watch from Cartier The Spiderwick Chronicles Premiere, New York 4. Mary-Louise Parker wearing the Tiffany Legacy Fleur of diamond earrings set in platinum Conde Nast Media Group’s Movies Rock Awards 5. Kate Hudson wearing a Frank Gehry Torque bangle in sterling silver from the Tiffany collection
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CHAUMET AT THE FOUR SEASONS Fine jewellery on fabulous ladies 1. Zhang Jingchu in a Chaumet Attrape-moi spider web themed pendant on a beaded necklace 2. Han Chae Young wearing Chaumet Attrape-moi earrings with a multi gem-studded necklace and chrysophrase paired with yellow and white gold and diamonds 3. Hsi Ti Hsu with Chaumet Boucles d’oreilles Attrape-moi earrings 4. Kelly Lin wearing a Chaumet Attrape-moi necklace carrying the signature spider web motif gem-studded 5. Michele Reis in Chaumet earrings with a gold necklace and ring from the Attrape-moi collection
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CHOPARD TIE AND TIARA BALL Here come the crown jewels
1. Nathalie Imbruglia wearing a high jewellery necklace composed of spinel, emerald and sapphire cabochon, set off with an emerald cut diamond cuff bracelet 2. Eva Herzigova in a stunning fancy shaped yellow diamond high jewellery necklace with matching 153.29-carat earrings and a cuff watch set with yellow briolette sapphires 3. Elizabeth Hurley wearing a unique fancy shaped diamond tiara with an impressive 192-carat matching her diamond drop earrings and diamond cuff bracelet 4. Mischa Barton in a sautoir of multi-coloured sapphires set in white gold with large diamond flower shaped earrings 5. Zhang Zhi Yi wearing a dazzling diamond necklace with 98.18-carat fancy diamonds and 6.59-carat pear diamond drop earrings 6. Elle McPherson with a long string of chocolate pearls with a yellow gold ‘Love’ necklace and an assortment of yellow gold Happy Spirit and Ice Cube rings in true hippie style All from Chopard
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HK TATLER BALL A night of glamour and gems
1. Fiona Li with Chanel Camelia AjourĂŠ necklace set in 18k white gold and brilliant-cut diamonds 2. Michelle Ong wearing Carnet earrings 3. Marie-Christine Lee wearing platinum Cluster earrings and necklace with diamonds from Harry Winston 4. Rita Goodridge with a necklace from Masterpiece by King Fook 5. Model in an 18k white and rose gold necklace and earnings from Masterpiece by King Fook and the World Is Yours watch with a multicoloured diamond case from Jacob & Co
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sparklepeoplejewellery box
a yorkshire lass moves to asia and finds her hidden oriental soul Jill Hui TEXT: resham aron photography: DAVIDE BUTSON-FIORI AND jason to
Her life is a play on contrasts. Of Western descent but with a penchant for Indian culture, Jill Hui reveals the journey that has led her to Hong Kong, and the gems she found along the way
人生對於Jill Hui充滿著強烈對比︰來自英國的Jill深愛印度文化，輾轉定居香港，當中更發掘出屬於自己的寶藏
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ong Kong is the city Jill Hui now calls home. Originally from Yorkshire, England, the elegant co-owner of Mantra Luxury moved here five years ago with husband Gordon Hui and their two sons. And though it was a challenge in the beginning, she has no regrets. “I love living here,” Jill says. “It’s a safe place and a great environment to bring up kids. I especially admire the community spirit and the strong family values.” The decision to move to Hong Kong was made by the Huis on their 12th year of marriage, both agreeing that once here they would never go back to live in England. Given Jill’s passion for jewellery, it was an appealing choice. The Mantra Luxury concept sprouted after many lengthy discussions with a close friend in Delhi. “She and I talked about starting a jewellery line for years. We would sit and discuss all the wonderful designs that we would create for our collection.” With talent, enthusiasm and a mutual love for the Indian heritage, the two friends planted the seeds for what was to be a successful partnership and a beautiful jewellery collection. Kick-starting the jewellery business was a big, expensive learning experience but Jill Hui has relished every minute of the journey. She particularly enjoys bringing her design expertise to the table, rooted from an understanding of Eurasian and Chinese taste. The logo for the collection is a stylised Om, which means breath of life, knowledge and purity. “It is a symbol of peace. My partner and I came up with Om because we both love yoga and we are both spiritual.” Jill’s love for India encompasses the food, the people, the history, the whole Indian experience. Her passion in life is yoga, which she is trying to perfect. “I love yoga. It opens my eyes to why people are the way they are and makes me question things,” she adds. She and her husband are big supporters of the HK Cancer Fund and Metapalayan trust in India, which is also supported by her parents.
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SPARKLE MAGAZINE (SM): In your jewellery box, which piece means the most to you? Why? Jill Hui (JH): My ring because my husband bought it for me using his own money.
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SM: If you could add one more piece to your collection today, it would be... JH: Jewellery with pink diamonds.
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港已經成為Jill Hui的家了。來自英國約克郡的Jill五年前與丈夫Gordon Hui和兩名兒子移居香港，並與合作夥伴創辦Mantra Luxury珠寶公 司。一切要從零開始畢竟困難重重，但她無怨也無悔。 「我愛住在這裡。」Jill 坦言說道︰「這裡很安全，是個培養 子女的好地方。我尤其對這兒的家庭觀念和社會氣氛非常欣賞。」 結婚12載，Jill夫婦二人就在那年決定舉家遷離英倫移居香港 再也不回頭。憑著對珠寶的滿腔熱忱，並且洞悉「這個活力都會的人 很會透過衣著和首飾去表達個人風格」的先機，毅然投身珠寶界。 跟居住在印度德里的友人展開漫長的討論和商議，Jill終於有 點眉目，Mantra Luxury就此成形。「 我和友人多年來不斷談論建立 一個珠寶品牌。我們正襟危坐仔細討論系列裡每款設計。」兩個朋友 因著彼此的天份、熱情和對印度文化的鍾愛而結下不解緣，更順理成 章地建立合作夥伴關係，還成功推出自己的珠寶首飾系列。 對於毫無經驗的Jill而言，要開創個人的珠寶首飾事業，實在工程浩大，投資高昂，但到目前為止，她每 分每秒也樂在其中，因為她能夠把歐亞和中國風情都融入自己的設計領域中。 每枚珠寶首飾都刻上精緻的Om品牌標誌，像替作品打上象徵生命氣息、素養和純潔的烙印。「這是個和平的 表徵，皆因我倆都熱愛瑜伽和靈性的追求。」 Jill對印度的迷戀豈只一鱗半爪，她對當地的歷史、飲食、人情和印度各地方的風土都為之神往不已。修 習瑜伽就更成為她生命的一部分，她想力臻完美。「我喜歡瑜伽，因為它開拓我的眼界，讓我更了解人，也啟導 我思考。」她補充說。 他們夫婦倆熱心公益，是香港癌症基金會的贊助人，而自上一代就開始支持印度Metapalayan 信託基金 的Jill自然也會一脈相承下去。
“The Om is in many pieces of my collection, it’s a symbol of peace.”
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1. A diamond ring “A 10 ½ carat cushion cut from Ronald Abram. This was my 40th birthday gift from my husband. He told me 20 years ago that I can have a big diamond when I turned 40.” 2. Diamond earrings “Four-carat diamonds in white gold. They match the ring; my husband got these for me this year.” 3. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Jill’s fondness for classic cuts and clean lines echoes in her choice of timepieces 4. Navaratna and mini Mantra bracelet “The mini bracelet is made with gemstones in white gold. The black onyx is equivalent to the Indian evil eye. The Navaratna is an auspicious, lucky 9 stone charm set in 18k gold, with precious and semi-precious stones representing the sun, moon and planets. The planet deities are supposed to have a significant impact on the lives of people. They bring peace and harmony and avert mishaps.” 5. Mantra cuff “Cuffs with Om symbol, solid silver with 18k white or yellow gold plating. Inspired by the beautifully handcarved screen of the Hawa Mahal, the ‘Palace of Winds’ in Jaipur.” 6. Mantra Om belt buckle “Hand-finished solid silver buckle dipped in 18k gold. I wear it every day.”
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SM: Favourite jewellery designer? JH: Ronald Abram— they have very classic settings that enhance the stones. I like de Grisogono too. SM: Name three favourite fashion designers. JH: Stella McCartney, Burberry, Chloe. SM: Describe your preferred clothing style? JH: Casual. Most of the time I wear jeans and a white shirt. SM: What’s your biggest self-indulgence? JH: Chocolates. SM: Favourite furniture designer? JH: David Linly.
SM：首飾盒內，哪件珠寶對妳最重要?為甚麼? JH：戒指，因為是丈夫花錢給我買的。 SM：鑽石、珍珠或彩石，妳喜歡哪一種? JH：鑽石。 SM：如果今天妳可以任意增添一件首飾，妳希望加添甚麼? JH：鑲有粉紅鑽石的首飾。 SM：誰是妳最喜歡的珠寶設計師? JH：Ronald Abram，那古典的鑲嵌方式令寶石更見光芒。同時，我也 喜愛de Grisogono。
My jewellery box contains
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SM: Diamonds, pearls or coloured gemstones? JH: Diamonds.
SM：請講出三位妳最喜愛的時裝設計師。 JH：Stella McCartney、Burberry及Chloe。 SM：請形容一下自己喜歡的衣飾。 JH：休閒服飾。我大部分時間都穿上白襯衫和牛仔褲。
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SM：妳會對甚麼很沉迷? JH：朱古力。 SM：誰是你最喜歡的傢俬設計師？ JH：David Linly遊覽過其他許多地方，但從未一起去過歐洲。
this lucky three-charm necklace from Mantra is what Jill wears to work every day
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up close and personal SM: Everyone sees a savvy businesswoman when they look at you. But who is the real you? JH: Pretty casual, very relaxed, good fun, always up for a laugh and always optimistic. For me the glass is always more than half full and never half empty. SM: Name something about you that few people know. JH: I am not a blonde. SM: What was the last book you read? JH: Ten Thousand Lovers by Edeet Ravel. SM: Who are your fantasy party dinner guests? JH: I would definitely have Robert de Niro, Tommy Lee Jones, Al Pacino, George Michael, Tony Bennett, Prince Charles and my absolute favourite, Robert Downey Jr. SM: Who is your role model? JH: My father, for teaching me to be humble, to keep my feet on the ground and not take anything for granted. He taught me my work ethics. SM: What would you like to be known for? JH: For being honest, fun, a good mother and a loyal friend. SM: What is your dream travel destination? JH: India, Himalayas and Kerala, South India. I just love India. SM: What three things in your life are you most proud of? JH: Children, husband and my work with Mantra Luxury.
SM：人人都認為妳是精明的女商家，究竟真實的妳又是何等模樣? JH：十分隨意、很輕鬆、很風趣，經常說說笑笑，為人樂觀。我認為杯中的水永遠多 過一半而從不會半空。 SM：告訴讀者一些鮮為人知的事。 JH：我並非天生金髮。 SM：妳最想邀請誰來作晚宴嘉賓? JH：我希望邀請影星羅拔迪尼路、湯美李鍾斯、阿爾帕仙奴；歌手佐治米高、東 尼班納特、英國王儲查理斯以及我的至愛羅拔唐尼。 SM：誰是妳的偶像? JH：父親。他教我做人要謙遜，做事要腳踏實地、有工作操守，而且一切得來不 易；另一個偶像就是我的家姑，她教曉我許多中國人的禮儀，以及如何成為中國人 所云男人背後的女人。 SM：妳想自己以甚麼揚名? JH：以誠實風趣見稱，作為一個好媽媽和忠誠的朋友而為人所共知。 SM：妳夢寐以求的旅遊地點在哪裡? JH：印度、喜瑪拉雅山及南印度的喀拉拉。我就是深愛印度。 SM：人生中哪三件事叫妳引以為榮? JH：兒子、丈夫及Mantra Luxury的事業。
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the sun always shines for one of Hong Kong’s most daring innovators Joanne Ooi photography: VINCENT TSANG TEXT: RESHAM ARON
A successful entrepreneur in the world of fashion and arts, Joanne Ooi is a free spirit who inspires others to find their own individuality. She talks about her appetite for life, and jewels as bold and colourful as her personality
成功企業家Joanne Ooi 在時裝界與藝術界自由穿梭，並不斷啟發新進尋找自我風格。她無懼人生種種風險，認為設計大膽顏色 斑斕的珠寶更顯其真我個性
sparklepeoplejewellery box
“Jewellery should be fun, exuberant...” SPARKLE MAGAZINE (SM): Everyone sees a philanthropist and savvy businesswoman when they look at you. But who is the real you? JOANNE OOI (JO): I am antisocial, I am an idealist, and I am not creative. I am an editor, a good editor. It is my job to identify creative people, and I edit their creativity.
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orn in Singapore and raised in the US’s mid-west, Joanne trained as a lawyer before permanently moving to Hong Kong from New York more than 12 years ago. She has made her mark in the city’s fashion scene, more evidently since taking the reins as creative director at Shanghai Tang in 2001. Stationed at the crossroads of creative and commercial life in Hong Kong, Joanne thinks of herself as an editor, always seeking new talent, whether it is for the popular Chinese fashion brand or her art gallery. One of her top priorities is helping young people find their unique niche, and she feels fortunate her posts allow her to do just that. Joanne admits that her approach to everything is one with “complete devotion and passion.” She is the kind of person who likes to be engaged in everything. “I enjoy going for classical music concerts. I try to attend the Hong Kong Arts Festival as much as I can.” Joanne is also a supporter of Mother’s Choice charity and the Hong Kong Youth’s Arts Foundation. A true individualist, there are three personal mottos that Joanne lives by and tries to constantly inculcate in her 9-year-old son: “First, when you wake up everyday you want to take a big bite out of life. Second. It’s possible to reinvent yourself in a single day. And third, don’t ever care what other people think.” Joanne’s style in jewellery is very much a reflection of her personality. “Jewellery should be fun, exuberant and creative and not about weighing or determining value,” she says. Pieces that are one-of-a-kind and involve a high level of creativity are of interest to her, as she actually considered being a jewellery designer prior to entering the fashion industry 10 years ago. “I feel like jewellery very much reflects my individuality more than clothes can.” Many of her favourites are bold statement pieces, with coloured gemstones set in antique gold or silver.
SM: Who are your fantasy party dinner guests? JO: Nouriel Rubini, he is an economist who predicted the eminent demise of the financial system. He is considered to be a visionary and a genius. And Stephen Hawkins.
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Joanne Ooi is not someone you can sum up in a nutshell. The 30-something creative director of Shanghai Tang and co-owner of art gallery Ooi Botos comes off as direct, mysterious, vivacious and quirky, all at the same time. A woman obviously not afraid to take risks, Joanne has had a life, in her words, “with the trajectory of a ride inside a pinball machine.”
SM: Who is your role model? JO: I don’t have a role model. The closest to a role model for me would be Yue-Sai Kan, the mainland cosmetics queen, the first female entrepreneur to emerge from a generation when there was no such thing in China. She is a real dynamo. I wouldn’t say she is my role model but I admire her a lot. SM: What would you like to be known for? JO: I would like to be known for assisting the creation of a flourishing design and creative community in Greater China. SM: Say there’s a fire and you can only save one thing. What would it be? JO: My son.
Joanne Ooi 的性情不是三言兩語可以概括。這位30出頭的上海灘創意 總監兼Ooi Botos 藝廊合伙人，既活力充沛、真情真性，又神秘莫測、 古靈精怪。她不怕冒險，形容人生，如她所云「如同彈珠機內無法掌握 的軌跡」。 生於新加坡、在美國中西 部成長的Joanne曾是個律師， 12年前由紐約移到香港定居，進 軍時裝界，2001年出任上海灘創 意總監，聲名大噪。 這邊廂她在香港的商界打 滾，那邊廂又默默經營創意事 業，Joanne把自己當作一名編 輯，不斷發掘新進，替香港流行 時裝品牌和自己發展的藝廊出一 分力。她認為其中一項首要的任 務就是提拔後起之秀，幫助他們 確立個人風格。很幸運，她兩項工作都能讓她大展掌腳。 Joanne 自言做任何事都會「傾注所有的熱情全力以赴」，而且對 任何事都感興趣參與。「我很喜歡聽古典音樂會，所以每年的香港藝術 節我務必抽空出席。」Joanne 還積極支持母親的抉擇的慈善活動和香 港青年藝術協會的活動。 一向目標清晰、處事獨立的Joanne，她一生中有三個座右銘，而 且還不時向9歲的兒子灌輸呢!「第一、每天起床就決定要用盡今天；第 二、要重新建立自己一天就夠了；第三、不要介意別人的想法。」 珠寶首飾的佩戴反映著個人的性情。Joanne認為「珠寶首飾要具創 意、有趣味，讓人歡喜，這跟重量大小或價值高低沒有必然關係。」 她 個人認為，獨一無二、充滿創意的首飾最討她的歡心。10年前還未投身 時裝界的Joanne就曾想過做珠寶設計師。「我認為珠寶比較衣服更能反 映我那獨立自主的性情。」她的大多數心頭好，都是設計大膽，把彩石 鑲嵌在典雅的金飾或銀飾上。
SM: What is your dream travel destination? JO: Jerusalem - I would be awestruck by the meaning and the age of the religious sites there, I think that would be very affecting.
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SM: In your jewellery box, which three pieces mean the most to you? Why? JO: The citrine ring because it was given to me by my boyfriend. The white ring is my favourite piece, and the cross ring because I wear it all the time. SM: Diamond, pearls or coloured gemstones? JO: Coloured gemstones. SM: If you could add one more piece to your collection today, what would it be? JO: A really crazy charm bracelet. I would want the charms to be very ironic and have meaning to it. It would be an ultimate gift for myself.
SM: 人人都認為妳是精明的商家和慈善家，究竟真正的妳是哪個模樣呢? JO: 我是個不按常理出牌的人，非常理想主義，但不太有創意。我其實 是個編輯，一個好編輯。我的工作就是發掘具創意的人，然後把他們的 創意修繕一下，這就是我的工作。
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SM: 最想邀請誰來做妳的晚宴嘉賓? JO: 經濟學家Nouriel Rubini，他早就預言美國金融制度會大為崩潰，他 是個有遠見的天才。另外，邀請 Stephen Hawkins 也不錯。
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SM: 誰是妳的偶像? JO: 我沒有崇拜的偶像，但心中一直非常羨慕著一個人，就是靳羽西， 她是內地化妝品天后，是中國化妝品品牌第一代女企業家，滿有幹勁， 不過這不是說她就是我的偶像。
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SM: 妳想自己以甚麼揚名? JO: 我想以協助大中華建立一個蓬勃的設計與創意社區而聞名。
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My jewellery box contains 1. Cuffs “From MCL. These are made of coloured gemstones with enamel plating on top of oxidised silver. I like to wear the bangles together; they are just so exotic and colourful. It is my favourite jewellery.” 2. Cross ring “One of my favourite pieces from Sandra Doriel, a good friend.I love it because its very chic in a very French way, it goes with anything. It can be rock n’ roll or can go with a Chanel suit.” 3. Tanzanite ring “Designed by Bao Bao Wan. I just love the colours of the gemstone and the style. It is made of tanzanite with diamonds in yellow gold.” 4. Citrine ring “My boyfriend bought this ring for me from Vasari, a jeweller in Madrid. The citrine stone sits on top of yellow sapphires, this is the signature setting of Vasari. You can see the sapphires glittering inside.” 5. Chalcedony stone ring “This is my all-purpose-go-with-anything ring, I wear it all the time. Youmna, one of the chicest designers I have ever met, designed it. It’s made of white chalcedony stone in yellow gold. This ring is my signature look.” 6. Yellow cuff “From Youmna, it also goes with anything. Her jewellery is a dedication to geometric simplicity and purity.”
SM: 首飾盒內，哪三件首飾對妳最重要，為甚麼? JO: 第一件是黃水晶戒指，因為是男朋友送給我的；另外是白玉髓戒 指，是我的寶貝；第三件是十字戒指，我常常戴著。 SM: 鑽石、珍珠或彩石，妳喜歡哪一種? JO: 彩石。 SM: 如果今天妳可以任意增添一件首飾，妳希望加添甚麼? JO: 我想要一枚非常迷人的手鐲。這手鐲的迷人之處在於設計帶有諷刺 成份，含有深層的意思，想必是給自己一份絕頂的好禮物。
sparklepeoplejewellery box SM: What three things in your life are you most proud of? JO: Raising my son in a way which was very different from my parents, proud of what I have achieved at Shanghai Tang, coming to terms with my life. SM: Your favourite film. JO: Throne of Blood by Akira Kurosawa, it’s so theatrical and the cinematography is sweeping. And 300, it is an action flick, visually exciting. I enjoy movies that take full advantage of their medium. SM: What was the last book you read? JO: A book by Haruki Murakami, I only read fiction by him. SM: Name three favourite fashion designers. JO: Balenciaga, Alaia and Missoni SM: Describe your preferred clothing style? JO: Schizophrenic – I can be chic or go completely bohemian. It all depends on my mood. SM: On a typical day what would your purse contain? JO: A laptop computer, a bag of gym clothes, Blackberry, and all my makeup. SM: What’s your biggest self-indulgence? JO: Getting a foot massage all by myself as many times I can during the week. SM: Favourite place to shop? JO: Antique market in London SM: Favourite furniture designer JO: Zaha Hadid
“ I approach everything with complete devotion and passion ”
SM: 人生中哪三件事叫妳最自豪? JO: 跳出從前父母教子女的框框，用另一種方式撫養兒子。在上海灘 創一番事業。找到自己的生活方式，我花了很多年去適應。 SM: 最喜愛的電影 JO: 由黑澤明執導的《蜘蛛巢城》，劇力萬鈞，攝影手法影響深遠。 《戰狼300》是一齣動作片，視覺效果佳，非常刺激。我喜歡能夠善用 各種媒體的電影。 SM: 妳最近讀過哪本書? JO: 村上春樹的書，我只讀他的小說。 SM: 三位最喜歡的時裝設計師 JO: Balenciaga、 Alaia 及Missoni 。 SM: 形容自己喜歡的衣飾 JO: 精神分裂型 – 我可以時而品味高貴時尚，時而波希米亞七彩繽 紛，視乎我的心情。. SM: 平常的日子，手袋裡會放著甚麼? JO: 手提電腦、健身衣物、Blackberry電子手帳及化妝品。 SM: 妳會沉迷做些甚麼? JO: 一星期多次自己做足底按摩。 SM: 最愛到哪裡購物? JO: 倫敦的古董市場。 SM: 最喜愛哪位家具設計師? JO: Zaha Hadid。
up close and personal
sparklepeoplejewellery box
nothing comes before family and traditional values Shirley Hiranand TEXT: resham aron photography: DAVIDE BUTSON-FIORI AND jason to
At the core of savvy businesswoman Shirley Hiranand is a caring mother, a daughter-in-law and a sister. While family are her most precious gems, Shirley opens up her jewellery box for a glance at her finest and most memorable pieces
Shirley Hiranand是一個悟性極高的職業女性，骨子裡卻是一位十分顧家的母親、兒媳婦和姊妹。家庭是她最重要的財富，在 傾訴對家人真摯熱愛的同時，Shirley還拿出珍藏的首飾盒，為我們展示件件她最心愛的飾物
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hirley was born in Manila, Philippines and raised in a tight-knit Indian community. But like many Indian women, she left her hometown to live with her chosen soul mate. “I moved to Hong Kong to marry my childhood sweetheart in 1979 and never left. This is my home now. I would not wish to be anywhere else.” After raising her five children- two boys and three girls aged from 27 to 15- Hiranand decided to embark on a career in public relations. Together with her sister, Reyna Harilela, she created Bonvivant & Bellavita, a premium public relations and event management company. They work with luxury brands such as Fendi, Roger Vivier, Veuve Clicquot and Swarovski. “There is a different persona behind the glitz and glamour of the PR work that I do. I really enjoy being home a lot with my children, watching movies or going to the gym to work out,” says Hiranand. Living in the Harirela house with all the elders in the family has taught her traditional values of an Indian household such as respect for elders, respect for life and belief in a higher being. Family and friends are most important in her life. Shirley loves to travel and visit her children, two of whom are studying in Australia and London. She has a holiday home in Los Angeles, where she spends quality time with family away from the hustle and bustle of Hong Kong. As for jewellery, she refers to them as “ornaments to make one feel and look good. I try not to get attached to them. As much as I admire and am passionate about jewellery, they build a fear in me.” She says pieces with sentimental value will be passed on to her children someday.
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SPARKLE MAGAZINE (SM): In your jewellery box, which three pieces mean the most to you? SHIRLEY HIRANAND (SH): Mangalsutra, the Turkish evil eye bracelet and the gold Indian set
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SM: Your most cherished piece of jewellery. SH: My wedding ring. SM: Diamonds…pearls or coloured gemstones? SH: Diamonds.
“Jewellery are ornaments that make people feel and look good.”
SM: Who is your favourite jewellery designer? SH: Van Cleef & Arpels, they just come up with amazing designs that are long lasting. SM: Your favourite film. SH: Gone With The Wind. SM: Name your favourite fashion designers. SH: I like local designers Vivienne Tam, Barney Cheng, and famous designers Nagara and Cecilia Yau.
如很多印度女性一樣，Shirley Hiranand離開了她的故鄉菲律賓馬尼拉， 飄洋過海跟心愛的人一起生活。「1979年，我搬來香港與青梅竹馬的玩 伴結為伉儷，自此便再也沒有離開。這裡就是我的家，任何地方也比不 上它。」 Hiranand夫婦育有兩個兒子和三個女兒，年齡介乎15至27歲之間。 撫養子女成人後，Hiranand決定在公關行業展開她的職業生涯。在妹 妹Reyna Harilela的協助下，她創建了Bonvivant & Bellavita，一間知名 的公關及活動管理公司。她們的客戶包括Fendi、Roger Vivier、Veuve Clicquot 及Swarovski等奢華品牌。 「我所從事的公關工作閃爍著耀眼的光芒，但在浮華的背後卻是一 個截然不同的我。我打從心裡喜歡與孩子們一起享受快樂的家庭生活， 看電影或者去健身房鍛煉。」Hiranand說。 Hiranand與Harirela家所有 長輩共同生活在同一屋檐下，這樣的經歷使她對印度家庭最看重的傳統 價值觀深有體會，如尊敬長輩、尊重生命及保持高尚情操。 家人和朋友在她的心目中佔有非常重要的位置。Shirley最喜歡去旅行及探訪她的子女，他們當中有兩個分別在 澳洲和倫敦求學。她在洛杉磯擁有一處度假寓所，可以使她暫時忘卻香港的浮華和喧囂。她與家人在那裡一起度 過了許多難忘的時光。 Shirley對珠寶和首飾的看法是「這些飾物不但可以令你感覺更好，而且佩戴起來更漂亮。我對首飾十分鍾 情和熱愛，甚至欲罷不能，就連自己也感到非常驚訝。」Shirley說，以後她會把有紀念價值的首飾全部傳給她 的子女們。
SM: Describe your preferred clothing style? SH: I love drama. SM: On a typical day you would be wearing… SH: A Rafe bag, flat shoes and an easy jersey dress.
SM：在你的首飾盒中，哪三件首飾對你的意義最重大？為什麼？ SH：Mangalsutra、土耳其邪眼（evil eye）手鐲及印度黃金套飾。 SM：你最珍貴的首飾。 SH：我的結婚戒指。 SM：是鑽石，還是珍珠或顏色寶石製成？ SH：鑽石。 SM：你最欣賞哪位珠寶設計師？為什麼？ SH：梵克雅寶（Van Cleef & Arpels），他們設計的珠寶極具魅力，而 且歷久不衰。 SM：你最喜愛的電影。 SH：亂世佳人。 SM：你最喜愛的時裝設計師。 SH：我喜歡本地設計師Vivienne Tam、Barney Cheng，以及著名的設 計師Nagara及Cecilia Yau。 SM：你最喜歡什么樣的服飾風格？ SH：我喜愛華麗的風格。
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1. Mangalsutra “It is an Indian symbol of Hindu marriage, it is comparable to a western wedding ring, and a married woman wears it until her husband’s death. Made of black beads and diamonds in gold, I wear it as a fashion piece; it is very significant to me. My husband likes it when I have it on. I love the feel of wearing it.” 2. Gemstone watch “Made of coloured gemstones and diamonds in gold. It was my mother-in-law’s watch; she chose the design and the gemstones. Her name is inscribed on it. Just when the watch was made she passed away. I remember how happy she was making the watch. It signifies the close relationship I had with her.” 3. Various cuffs and bangles “When I got married, I initially didn’t like wearing anything on my arm, but my family always urged me to. Then I started to wear different kinds of bangles and started my own collection. I collect everyday pieces, made of wood, diamonds or gold.” 4. Gold Indian set “Made of yellow gold with diamonds and gemstones. It was a gift given to me by the Harirela family for my 25th wedding anniversary; it signifies that I belong to the family.”
SM：在一個特別的日子你會如何打扮？ SH：我會帶一個Rafe手袋，平跟鞋及一條舒適的連身裙。
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elaborate indian jewellery is the backbone of shirley’s treasured collection
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up close and personal SM: What is your dream travel destination? SH: I would love to visit Eastern Europe with my five children. We have been to a lot of other places but have not done Europe together. SM: Everyone sees a glamorous socialite and businesswoman when they look at you. But who is the real you? SH: I am a mom, a sister, and a daughter-in-law. I wake up to my kids and family and these are the roles I have to play first and everything else comes after I have fulfilled these roles. SM: Name three things about you that few people know. SH: I am very prudish and shy. Very much a one-man woman and I hate the sun. SM: Who are your fantasy party dinner guests? SH: Paul Newman because he was a great husband, an entrepreneur, philanthropist and he stayed with one woman for the rest of his life. I would like to have Bill Clinton as a guest too. SM: Who is your role model? SH: My mom, mother-in-law and my aunt in-laws in the Harirela house. They are just so elegant, they are pillars of support for us daughters –in-law. SM: What would you like to be known for? SH: I would like to be known as being a good parent. We bring these children into this world and we have an obligation to be a role model to them. I don’t think I can leave his world if any one of my children is unhappy. Charity always begins at home. I want to leave a good name behind since I can’t take any of the worldly things with me when I die. SM: Say there’s a fire and you can only save one thing. What would it this be? SH: My kids, helpers and pets. There is not one thing that I can think of saving. If I can’t bring any of them, I will die with them, because they are my life.
SM：你最理想的旅遊勝地是哪裡？ SH：我希望攜同我五個孩子遊覽東歐。我們一起遊覽過其他許多地方，但從未一起去過歐洲。 SM：在眾人眼中，你是一位氣質優雅的知名人士和職業女性。但真實的你是怎樣的？ SH：我是一個母親、姊妹和兒媳婦。我的首要職責是照顧我的孩子和家庭，完成了這項職責後我 才會考慮其他事情。 SM：說出三個你鮮為人知的特點。 SH：我為人其實非常靦腆拘謹，對丈夫千依百順，而且很討厭陽光。 SM：你理想中的宴會賓客是誰？ SH：保羅紐曼（Paul Newman），因為他是一位好丈夫、企業家及慈善家，而且他一生只愛 一個女人。我亦希望邀請克林頓。 SM：你生活中的榜樣是誰？ SH：我的母親、婆婆及Harirela家的嬸母。她們非常優雅，是我們這些為人媳婦的最佳榜樣。 SM：你希望自己在哪方面為人所知？ SH：我希望人們知道我是一位好母親。我們將孩子帶到這個世界，對他們負有責任，我們必須 為他們樹立好榜樣。我認為當孩子不開心時，我不能離開他的身邊。善良仁慈的品質要由家庭 教育開始培養。我希望在身後留下好的名聲，因為離世時我們無法帶走世間任何東西。 SM：假如發生火災而你只能保護一樣事物。你希望保護什麼？ SH：我的孩子、助手及寵物。我想保護的不只一樣事物。如果我不能救出他們中的任何一個， 我將與他們一起離開這個世界，因為他們就是我的生命。
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TOURMALINE, AMETHYST AND DIAMOND RING; DIAMONDS IN WHITE GOLD RING BOTH FROM DE GRISOGONO; KNITTED HOODIE WITH LAMB FUR FROM FENDI
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PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVIDE BUTSON-FIORI ASSISTED BY: JASON TO STYLING: EMILE YABUT-RAZON MAKEUP: ANGIE PASLEY HAIR: COOLEY LAI OF P.O.P HAIRDRESSING MODELS: EUGENIA AND ALENA OF MODEL GENESIS
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Heat up the nights with juicy red rubies, diamonds black as sin, the greenest emeralds, and lustrous gold. It’s the season to be bold
sparklefeaturebare naked gems THIS PAGE PERIDOT AND BROWN DIAMOND NECKLACE IN YELLOW GOLD FROM DE GRISOGONO RACCOON WAISTCOAT FROM CASSIN AT ON PEDDER OPPOSITE PAGE GOLD AND SILVER WIDE DIAMOND BANGLES FROM AISHWARYA AT LANE CRAWFORD CC SKYE DIAMOND-SHAPED EARRINGS WITH GLITTER AT ON PEDDER
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GOLD AND SILVER VICTORIAN NECKLACE AND EARRINGS SET FROM AISHWARYA AT LANE CRAWFORD LAMBSKIN SHRUG BY KARL DONOGHUE FOR TOSCANA AT ON PEDDER
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DIAMOND, EMERALD AND PEARL EARRINGS FROM AISHWARYA AT LANE CRAWFORD LEATHER AND FUR CROPPED JACKET BY GUCCI
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NECKLACES FROM VENNA AT ON PEDDER; GOLD AND SILVER DIAMOND BANGLE FROM AISHWARYA AT LANE CRAWFORD FUR SHORT-SLEEVED JACKET FROM FENDI
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WHITE AND BLACK DIAMOND CUFF IN WHITE GOLD FROM DE GRISOGONO
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CRYSTAL SERPENT DOUBLE WRAP BANGLES AND HINGED CUFF FROM KENNETH JAY LANE; ETIQUETTE MIXED STUD BANGLE AND TRINITY STUD STAR PEARL CUFF FROM FALLON; LARGE FLORAL CUFF FROM HELENE ZUBELDIA; ALL FROM ON PEDDER; JACKET FROM GUCCI
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Text by Eric Wiele Photography by Floris Leeuwenberg
Jaipur’s sapphires and rubies have long glittered around the necks of the rich – from maharanis to Hong Kong’s bejewelled set. We follow the gem trail from the mines by Tonk to Jaipur, where the bidding starts...
JAIPUR HAS
long held the proud position of purveyor of fine gemstones to the world. Maharajah Sawai Jai Singh II had the first gem cutting workshops set up soon after the founding of the city in 1727. Johari Bazaar became the original bazaar for the retailing of jewellery and gems. Nearby alleyways were designated for wholesaling of the precious stones needed to supply the trade. The love of ornamentation has been a curiously human trait since time immemorial, and few have surpassed the Rajput royal families in this pursuit. It was their need to portray wealth and status with gem-encrusted jewels that led to the establishment of the first training schools for gem cutters and goldsmiths in Jaipur. Skilled craftsmen were imported from Bengal, who began teaching Jaipuris the secret tricks of the trade. Before long Jaipur had established itself as a pre-eminent centre for the gem trade, and began attracting adventurers and dealers from around the globe. The opening of the Suez Canal in the late 1800s greatly reduced the time it took to travel from Europe to India by ship. The great fashion and jewellery houses of London and Paris started showing interest in what Jaipur had to offer. Such well-established firms as Cartier, Boucheron and Chanel began sending their purchasing agents to the East in search of something rare and special. With the advent of mass tourism in the last few decades, Asia became accessible to anyone with the funds for a ticket. Perhaps the city of Jaipur has always attracted more than its fair share of dreamers and schemers, presenting them with the opportunity to make quick money on these highly portable gems. Today, the sons of Jaipur fan out across the globe in search of new material for their polishing workshops. From the remote mountains of South America to the tropics of Africa, indeed wherever precious stones are mined, one finds the traders of Jaipur. But this search for new material has also turned up gems closer to home.
無論是印度君侯的夫人，還是中東油王的妻子，頸上總少不了來自捷布(Jaipur) 的寶石和紅寶石。 我們千里迢迢走訪Tonk、捷布等地，把寶石交易、切割、鑲嵌等過程帶到大家眼前。
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捷布一直是馳譽國際的寶石總匯。在1727年建都後不久，君侯Sawai Jai Singh二世已在這裡成立首間寶石切割工場。至 於首個大型首飾及寶石市場，則要數Johari Bazaar。為了配合Johari Bazaar的業務，不少批發商都在附近的大街小巷也 開設店舖。 有史以來，人類對各種飾物都趨之若騖。但論到狂熱程度，Rajput族的皇室成員卻是數一數二。為了借助鑲滿寶石的 首飾來炫耀財富和地位，他們更不惜從Bengal引入寶石切割和金飾製作工匠，在捷布開設訓練學校，好讓當地人能學會這 些工藝，滿足他們的需求。 捷布成為寶石貿易中心後不久，便吸引了來自全球各地的冒險家和商人。 19世紀後期開通的蘇彝士運河，大大縮短了歐洲至印度的航程，也令倫敦和巴黎各大時裝及首飾品牌開始對捷布的貨 品產生興趣。Cartier、Boucheron、Chanel等大公司，甚至派專人到亞洲蒐購各類珍品。 數十年來，隨著旅遊業的急速發展，人們只要有錢，便可隨時到亞洲旅行。當然，除遊客之外，前來捷布的還有不少 希望利用寶石來賺快錢的人。 今天，捷布的寶石業者常常四出訪尋，為打磨工場物色新材料。無論是南美的偏遠山區，還是經年高溫的非洲，只要 有寶石的地方，都會找到他們的足跡。在他們的努力下，昔日遙不可及的寶石，已經走入平常百姓家。 Rajasthan邦幅員廣闊，但土地貧瘠。一望無際的Great Thar沙漠，正正位於這裡。 在黃沙之中的Tonk，位於捷布以南約160公里。在這裡地底，有一個面積達15平方公里的寶石級石榴石礦，為這裡帶 來已持續了個多世紀的石榴石開採業。 現時，在該處經營寶石業的公司有10家之多。這些公司大多向當地農民租地，然後在領牌後開始鑽探礦坑。礦坑面積 雖小(只有10x20呎)，但都直達地底深處。 礦主Mumtaz Khan指出，石榴石蘊藏在地底30呎以下的位置。因此，他們會首先僱用分判商，利用機械鑽出20呎深的 礦坑，隨後用人手一邊以鋤頭和鏟子挖掘，一邊檢查礦坑內是否有石榴石礦核。 然而，地下水的水位一般也位於地底30呎左右。這些地下水會逐漸滲透到礦坑裡，令礦坑底部積水。往往在一夜之 間，礦坑便積水達10呎之多，需要用泵抽走。不過，由於礦床位處沙漠，水也自然變得矜貴起來，因此採礦公司都會與擁 有土地的農民簽訂協議，把抽出來的地下水灌溉周圍的農田，為沙漠營造出一片片郁翠綠洲。 「礦坑越深，收穫越多，」Mumtaz Khan半開玩笑地說：「至少這裡每個人都這麼說。」 某些礦坑深達80呎之多。工人要前往開採地點，得要沿著搖搖晃晃的梯子慢慢爬下。梯子每隔20呎，便設有一個平台 供工人小休──不過，平台也與梯子一樣，看來不怎穩固。另一方面，儘管水泵已在不停運作，但礦坑底部的積水始終高
sparklefeaturestones Fit for royalty. These 52.72-carat sapphire and diamond earrings were recently auctioned at Christie’s
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OPPOSITE PAGE: Mother Earth’s bounty - the most coveted of purple stones, the faceted amethyst; pearls and peridot combine in this eclectic blend of traditional techniques and unusual materials; a massive amethyst, cut from rough crystal
vastness that is Rajasthan, the Great Thar Desert stretches endlessly in all directions, broken occasionally by the greenery of an oasis. Some 160 kilometres due south of Jaipur, in the district of Tonk, the mining of garnets has been going on for more than a century. Ranging over an area of approximately 15 square kilometres there are gem-quality garnets to be found far below the desert surface. In all, there are 10 entrepreneurs in the area who extract these gemstones from the hard earth. Most lease their small plots from local farmers, after getting a permit from the government to dig tunnels underground. These small mines dot the countryside, holes in the ground of roughly 10 by 20 feet in diameter, going deep into the bowels of the earth. According to mine owner Mr Mumtaz Khan, you have to go down at least 30 feet before coming across the first garnet crystals. A contractor with a digger for hire does the initial excavating, opening up the first 20 feet or so to the sky. The rest of the digging is done by hand, using pick and shovel, while checking for garnet nodules on the way down. The water table is usually about 30 feet below the surface. Water seeps through the earth, slowly collecting on the mine floor, and on a typical morning there will be some 10 feet of water to pump out. In these dry desert stretches such water is a precious commodity in itself. As part of the agreement between the mine operator and the farmer who owns the land, this water must be pumped daily onto the farmers’ surrounding fields, thus creating a lush oasis in the wasteland. “The deeper the mine the better the chance of big reward”, Mumtaz Khan says with a wink, “or at least that’s what they say around here.” One descends into the mineshaft on a rickety ladder, stopping every 20 feet or so on even shakier platforms. The bottom is reached some 80 feet down, and is usually ankle-deep in water despite frequent pumping. It is in these nether regions that the workers wield their small pickaxes in search of the crystals. The rough chunks of garnet as they are found in the earth are known locally as “gola”, which simply means “round” in Hindi, due to the spherical shape of the crystals. These lumps of dull red stone range in size from that of a golf ball to that of a man’s head, and usually weigh between 200 grammes and 5 kilos apiece. Occasionally a giant is found, weighing as much as 40 kilos. An independent operator such as Mumtaz Khan, working a single mineshaft, can expect to realize between 70 and 80 kilos of these nodules per day for his efforts, with a yield of between 5 percent to 10 percent in gemstone-quality rough garnet. Depending on the colour and translucency of these crystals, they will command between 400 and 600 rupees (US$8 to $12) per kilo in the wholesale markets of Jaipur. By the time these stones are ready to be sold for setting in jewellery, after having been shaped, faceted and polished, they will have lost up to 95 percent of their original weight. Their wholesale rates will then be in the range of 50,000 to 80,000 rupees per kilo (approximately US$1,010 to $1,620).
The rough material is first given to a “shape-maker” whose principal task is to maximise the return gained from the rough material. His duties include examining the rough gems carefully to see where the colour lies best, then shaping the stone to maximise its effect. In the hands of a skilled shape-maker, rough stones such as amethyst that may contain only a splash of purple can be shaped in such a way that the colour refracts and filters through the entire stone. From there the stones are passed on to the men who do the actual faceting and polishing of the gems. Their basic tools include a handdriven grinding wheel coated with abrasives and a piece of wood with sealing wax on the tip. It is onto this heated wax that the stone to be faceted is affixed, which can then be applied to the grinding wheel according to the cut required. Each facet of every stone must be ground separately, while applying just the right amount of pressure. There is a remarkable sense of co-operation between the three major religious groups that live and work together in Jaipur, a harmony reflected in its luscious architecture. A common goal has united the Hindu, Muslim and Jain communities in this part of the world, with each group playing its part towards the greater goal of “business-making”. Buying and selling in the market was the preserve of the Hindu merchant caste, known locally as Marwaris, who came to control much of the retailing of stones and jewellery from their emporiums on M.I. Road. The Marwari caste of Rajasthan has gained notoriety throughout South Asia as being especially clever and astute in their business dealings. But the working of raw materials such as stones is forbidden to Hindus of good caste. Therefore the cutting and polishing of the gems has always been done by Muslims, who have no religious qualms about such work. From their rather humble origins as labourers, many Muslim families have moved on to trading gems all over India and beyond. And then there are the Jains, for whom the roles of trader and middleman are most suitable. Consequently, this community developed a nose for entrepreneurship that sees them facilitating the entire process to this day. All three groups are indispensable to each other, and have always found co-operation to be the best – and most profitable – path to follow. There would appear to be little in common between the vast deserts of Rajasthan and the towering mountains of the Himalayas, yet cultural links between these two distant and very different regions run deep. These alliances were first forged in the 14th century. The first Rajputs to arrive in the Himalayas were fleeing Mughal armies from Afghanistan and Central Asia, and their origins ensured that they kept their links with northern India alive. The consolidation of power that came about in the late 18th century, when the ruler of Gorkha conquered the Kathmandu valley and united what is now Nepal, added immensely to the wealth of the new ruling classes. These usurpers from the hills were now in control of the trade routes between the plains of India and the Tibetan plateau, and able to tax the caravans that used the valley as a staging point along the route. One lesson to be drawn from history is that wherever wealth is accrued, jewels are sure to follow. And whenever demand crops up for such luxury items, traders and artisans will make it their business to come up with the goods.
及足踝……璀璨迷人的寶石，就是從這樣惡劣的環境中被開採出來的。 在北印度語中，「gola」是圓形的意思。也許因為石榴石晶體呈圓形的關係，當地人 都稱未經琢磨的石榴石為「gola」。石榴石的礦石呈暗紅色，大小不一，小的只有一個高 爾夫球般大，而大的則巨如人頭，重量介乎200克與5公斤之間。不過，工人偶爾也會找 到重達40公斤的特大石榴石。 一般來說，像Mumtaz Khan等只擁有一個礦坑的私人礦主，每天也會找到70-80公斤 的礦核，當中含有5-10%寶石級的石榴石。在捷布的批發市場，每公斤石榴石可賣得400600盧布(8-12美元)不等，視乎色澤和透明度而定。 石榴石由礦石變為寶石，須經過切割、打磨等多個程序，以重量計耗損率高達95%， 令身價也水漲船高──用來鑲嵌首飾的石榴石，批發價可高達每公斤50000-80000盧布 (1,010-1,620美元)。 剛開採出來的石榴石礦石，會先交由專人決定應如何切割，冀能「物盡其用」。負責 這項工作的人員，會先找出礦石中色彩最漂亮的部份，然後決定用哪種切割方法加以彰 顯。在專家手中，紫水晶內即使只有一小點紫色，也能借助光學效果而顯得色彩均勻。 擬定好形狀後，礦石便會交由工匠進行切割及打磨。他們的工具只有手動砂輪和一小 片用蠟處理過的木片，非常原始。工匠首先會把木片稍稍加熱，用蠟把礦石黏著，然後用 砂輪將之磨成指定形狀。礦石每一面均需獨立處理，確保打磨時受力均勻。 捷布有三大宗教，但它們的教徒都相處融洽、和睦非常──這點由當地繽紛多變的建 築物便可見一斑。事實上，為了營造商機，這裡的印度教、回教和耆那教徒都各司其職， 通力合作。 買賣的任務，都由當地稱為「Marwaris」的印度教商人所負責，他們控制了M.I. Road上大部分寶石及首飾零售業務。不過，由於他們的生意手腕過分進取，甚至有點猾 頭，因此在南亞地區的名聲並不太好。 不過，由於較高級的印度教不得處理礦石等原材料，因此切割、打磨寶石的工作會交 由回教徒負責。雖然不少回教徒出身自勞工階層，但他們大多已改為從事寶石貿易，業務 範圍遍及印度及世界各國。耆那教徒大多營商有道，同時是非常出色的中間人，因此他們 大多負責拓展業務的角色。 這三個宗教的教徒不但在捷布和諧並處，在業務上更是相輔相成，為這個城市取得更 大的商業成就。 地理上，黃沙浩瀚的Rajasthan與山勢險要的喜馬拉雅山區，似乎風馬牛不相及。然 而，兩者的文化卻淵源極深──早在14世紀，兩地已經開始建立聯繫。首批抵達喜馬拉雅 山的區的Rajput族人，是來自阿富汗和中亞世亞的Mughal逃兵。由於血緣關係，他們在這 裡落地生根後，仍與北印度藕斷絲連。 18世紀後期，尼泊爾Gorkha族人的領袖成為了加德滿都(Kathmandu)的統治者，並把 四分五裂的國土統一為今天的尼泊爾。由於取得了印度與西藏之間貿易路線的控制權，這 個新的統治階層得以向經過的商旅收取過路費，因而積聚了不少財富。 歷史告訴我們：任何地方只要富有起來，便會開始輸入珠寶首飾。只要有市場，售 賣、製造這類高級消費品的商人、工匠便會前來尋找商機。 在加德滿都歷代皇帝的統治下，喜馬拉雅山區各諸侯國日趨安定，與印度的貿易也變 得越來越頻繁。絡繹不絕的商旅，無懼強盜猛獸，帶著價值連成的絲織品和金銀珠寶等， 經印度北部帶到加德滿都，好滿足當地貴族的需求。 現在，商人可僱人乘巴士或火車送貨，再無須親自上路；而威脅貨物安全的，也由 昔日的野獸或強盜，變成印度火車上的小偷。因此，專業承運人在長達1,000公里的路途 上，都會極力保持低調，以免成為偷竊目標。 承運人只按貨物的重量而收錢，甚少理會所運送的是哪種寶石。商人只需在捷布把已 經封口的膠袋交給承運人，便可安枕無憂，讓他們原封不動把貨物送到加德滿都。即使 膠袋裡裝著的是綠寶石、紅寶石等無價之寶，或是便宜至極的瑪瑙或縞瑪瑙，運費也絕 無分別。 捷布與加德滿都之間的路程需時4至6天。承運人會先乘通宵巴士到德里，然後轉乘長 途火車經北印度Gangetic平原前往邊境。承運人總是二人同行，他們只會坐火車的二等 位，而且會把貨物放在毫不起眼的行李箱來掩人耳目。此外，二人會輪流睡覺，以便24小 時看守貨物。 抵達尼泊爾邊境後，再坐12小時巴士越過喜馬拉雅山下的Mahabharat山脈，便可抵達 加德滿都。
SPARKLE P.99
sparklefeaturestones FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: With the elegant windows of Jaipur as inspiration, this labradorite pendant reflects its Eastern origins; faceted amethyst briolettes
With the increased stability that came about as the various Himalayan principalities came under the rule of the kings in trade with the lowlands of India flourished. Caravans moved slowly across Northern India, braving robbers and wild beasts along the way, bringing cargo of precious silks, gems and jewellery to the aristocracy in Kathmandu.
NOWADAYS,
traversing this treacherous route is the work of professional carriers; men who cross the sub-continent by rail and bus to deliver their packages for a price. Today’s dangers are not so much wild beasts and robbers as clever thieves who ride the Indian trains. It is the carrier’s duty to deliver the goods safely, and this requires maintaining a very low profile throughout the 1,000-kilometre-long journey. The carriers rarely know what type of gems they are transporting, being paid a fee based wholly on the weight of the goods being carried. Sealed plastic packages are handed over to them in Jaipur that are expected unopened in Kathmandu. Inside there could be priceless emeralds and rubies or the cheapest agates and onyx. The delivery charge remains the same. The overland journey from Jaipur to Kathmandu usually takes four to six days. First to Delhi by night bus, followed by the long train rides across the Gangetic Plains of North India to the border regions. Always traveling in pairs, the carriers will blend in with the crowds, traveling in the second-class compartments of the trains, sleeping in shifts to safeguard their ordinary-looking baggage. Once the Nepali frontier has been crossed there remains a 12-hour bus ride through the Mahabharat range foothills to the Himalayas, into the Valley of Kathmandu. The English word “demand” has recently entered the Hindi language, as spoken by gem dealers. It is what drives the market and what every dealer strives to fulfill. In the past the trade was centred on certain gems that sold strongly year in and year out. Such standbys as emerald, amethyst and garnet would sell well consistently no matter what was going on in fashion circles abroad. In more recent years the colours deemed fashionable by the doyens of style in New York and Paris have exercised an enormous influence on prices. If light blue becomes the chosen shade for Spring, the demand for aquamarine and blue topaz will immediately skyrocket. And as the world gets smaller, arbitrary factors such as pop culture can play an enormous role in the scheme of things. The movie Jurassic Park inspired a huge and completely unprecedented increase in the demand for amber, because amber (or the mosquito trapped in it) played such a vital role in the movie. Similarly, a fabled jewel called the “Heart of the Ocean” in the movie Titanic was an enormous lump of tanzanite. Without warning, tanzanite became the most highly sought-after stone on the market and the dealers had to scramble for supply. But the endless details and apparent complexity of the gem trade actually belie its profound simplicity. Because the driving force behind it all may be summed up in one word: love. Without this magical ingredient there would be no garnet mines in Rajasthan, no bargaining in the back streets of Jaipur, no trade for the master jewellers of Kathmandu. Because precious stones, and the jewellery they are set in, have symbolically stood for this powerful emotion since the beginning of time. Love, as we all know, is a many-splendoured thing; it makes the world go round; it’s all you need. When all is said and done it is, in effect, as simple as that.
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多得一眾寶石貿易商，需求的英文「demand」剛被收編到北印度語之中。的確，這 些寶石商得以生存，「需求」可謂舉足輕重。 過往，市場只集中在綠寶石、紫水晶及石榴石等不受時裝潮流所影響，經年熱賣的寶 石。但近年來，人們對色彩的需求，已經由紐約及巴黎的時裝潮流全盤主矮。因此，如某 年春季淺藍色大熱，綠玉和藍晶的需求也會馬上直線上升。 世界各國的距離正日漸縮短，令流行文化之類的抽象事物變得更有影響力。例如電影 「朱羅紀公園」，便令琥珀帶來前所未有的銷量。 同樣，電影「鐵達尼號」中的「Heart of the Ocean」，也令坦桑黝簾石身價激增，甚 至成為全個市場，以至所有寶石商苦苦追尋的對象。 儘管寶石業的運作千頭萬緒，複雜非常，但究其根本，卻只有愛情兩字──簡單得難 以置信吧？原因同樣非常簡單：自古以來，人類便以各種寶石和用寶石鑲嵌而成的飾物來 象徵愛情。因此，要是世上沒有了愛情，絕對不會有人在Rajasthan開採石榴石，沒有人 會在捷布的後街為寶石而討價還價，而你也不會在加德滿都找到任何首飾工匠。 我們都知道：愛情是美好的──它推動世界不斷向前，也是你所需要的一切。儘管世 人把愛情形容得天花亂墜，但本質卻是簡單不過。
SPRING 2007 SPARKLE
sparklefeaturestones
TEXT: Priyanka Boghani PHOTOGRAPHY BY: Edgar Tapan & Jason To
indian summer
The blue mangoes have ripened, the Indian heat has simmered and leaves gleam with the pearly dew of the monsoon rains. Even as the autumn breeze starts to turn chilly, the feeling of Indian summer is still in the air. Like the prints on an embroidered sari, colours run through the sky in bold sweeps. Bright colours also shine in the Indian jewellery that is beginning to adorn Hong Kong’s glamorous set. A new era of Indian-inspired jewellery has begun.
青芒果已經逐漸成熟，樹葉上滾動著印度雨季的晶瑩水珠，熱 力十足的印度風即將一觸即發。即使秋意漸濃，四處仍瀰漫著 印度盛夏的氣氛，就像印度婦女身上披的刺繡沙麗一般，在天 空掠過一片斑斕的色彩。鮮豔的印度珠寶開始在香港人的頸 子、手腕、耳垂和腰間閃耀，彷彿在預告著佩戴及收藏印度珠 寶飾物的風氣將再度興起。
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Clockwise from top: Diamond and enamel bracelet from Hyderabad, 18th century; Cartier Inde Mysterieuse platinum necklace with ribbed emeralds, engraved rubies and sapphires; pair of 18k gold earrings with pearls from Rajasthan
sparklefeaturestones Inde Mysterieuse platinum ring in yellow gold with yellow diamonds, emerald eyes and onyx studded tiger
Inde Mysterieuse platinum necklace with three tiers of brilliant diamonds and three engraved emeralds
Inde Mysterieuse platinum earrings with dangling briolette-cut diamonds
Inde Mysterieuse platinum necklace with brown, yellow and briolette-cut diamonds
Aishwarya Rai in the movie Jodhaa - Akbar (2008)
World-renowned jewellery house Cartier has been commissioned to make jewels
Inde Mysterieuse platinum earrings with two briolette-cut brilliant diamonds
When it comes to Indian jewellery, the popular proverb “old is gold” holds well and
談到印度珠寶飾物，"old is gold" 這句流行諺語可謂千
true. Masterful designs created by Indian artisans 5,000 years ago are resurfacing
真萬確。五千年前由印度工匠創作的出色設計，再度出現
for the maharajas since 1930. Maharaja Bupinder Singh of Patiala was one of their
in many of today’s jewellery designs. Perhaps it is the thought of having an ornate
在許多現代珠寶設計當中。無論是蒙兀兒皇帝的妃嬪曾經
greatest patrons and the famous Patiala necklace, a platinum and diamond five-
的委託製作珠寶飾物，其中最尊貴的客戶要數Patiala的
necklace encrusted with shallow rose-cut diamonds once worn by one of the Mogul
戴過的那些鑲嵌玫瑰形切割鑽石項鍊；或是寶萊塢巨星和
strand bib with 2,930 diamonds, has by far been the most impressive necklace
邦主Bupinder Singh。著名的Patiala項鍊以五串白金
ruler’s wives. Or perhaps it is simply the sight of Bollywood superstar and former Miss
前環球小姐Aishwarya Rai耳垂上一長串飾以齋浦爾寶石
designed by Cartier. Last year, the jeweller released its collection Inde Mysterieuse,
鑲鑽石鍊組成，上面總共鑲了2,930顆鑽石，是Cartier迄
Universe Aishwarya Rai decked out in Jaipur gems, jingling in jhumka ear ornaments
的耳環；甚至是印度電影如2002年的《寶萊塢生死戀》、
evoking the Mogul era of Indian grandeur and opulence. Cartier’s most recent
今令人印象最深刻的設計。去年，Cartier發表了Inde
and encrusted in meenakri gold on the sets of Devdas (2002), Umrao Jaan (2006) and
2006年的《勒克瑙之花》、2008年的《阿克巴大帝》片
collection is a eulogy to India’s myriad of colours, materials and styles. The
Mysterieuse系列，令人想起印度蒙兀兒帝國當年的顯赫和
Jodhaa – Akbar (2008) that have made many return to India’s heritage.
中的上釉黃金飾物Meenakri，都令這股印度熱燒得更如
diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines and many other coloured-stone
富裕。而Cartier的最新系列更是對印度豐富的色彩、材質
火如荼。
jewellery designs, with exotic and striking Indian influences, are enchanting markets
和風格的歌頌，以鑽石、紅寶石、藍寶石、綠寶石、碧璽及
around the world, including Hong Kong.
其他彩色寶石設計珠寶，加上異國情調和注目的印度風格，
An affair to remember
珠寶飾物都成為印度人熱愛珠寶的力證。 世界著名珠寶公司Cartier自1930年以來一直接受邦主
There is no other place that is as deeply entrenched in jewellery as India. From
永恆的愛戀
the great maharajas of the Mogul period to today’s elaborate, five-day wedding
沒有任何地方比印度更重視珠寶的傳統。從蒙兀兒時期的
Jewels of India
extravaganzas, India’s treasure trove of gems and precious stones have been well
邦主到現在一連五天的隆重婚宴，印度珍貴的珠寶玉石一
Hong Kong’s jewellery lovers are constantly being treated to a twinkling feast of
印度珠寶
preserved. With time, they have evolved into a genre of their own. Their classic uncut
直被完好地保存著。隨著時間的推移，印度珠寶逐漸形成
high-end exhibitions and collections, from big auction houses down to individual
香港的珠寶首飾愛好者有幸可以經常接觸到從大拍賣公司
stones set in either gold or antique silver, gem-set triangles and gorgeous Jaipur
獨具魅力的風格。以黃金或古董銀鑲嵌典型的未切割寶
designers. Christie’s, the global auction house, has held many auctions featuring
到個別設計師舉行的高級珠寶展和收藏品。領導全球藝術
finishes are unmistakable. Today, they have been revived in many pieces and this
石，飾以寶石的三角形飾物加上鬼斧神工的齋浦爾漆釉，
period jewels. Rahul Kadakia, head of Christie’s jewellery department in New York,
商品及國際拍賣的佳士得拍賣公司，就曾經舉辦過多場特
stands as true testament to India’s long-time love affair with jewellery.
令人一望便知這是印度珠寶。如今，許多經過修復的印度
says the most valuable piece of Indian jewellery that has been sold at a Christie’s
定年代的古董首飾拍賣會。紐約佳士得珠寶部門的負責人
215 P.
Inde Mysterieuse platinum white gold necklace decorated with rows of sapphires with small coins, diamond balls and one cabochon-cut emerald
迷惑了包括香港在內的全球市場。
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18th century white sapphire necklace for the maharaja of Vijaynagur
Gold cuff bracelet from Tamil Nadu 20th century
Mogul spinel-bead necklace weighing 877 carats
auction is the Mogul ruby, emerald and jade covered flask, which dates back to the
Rahul Kadakia表示，佳士得歷來售出的印度珠寶當中，以
early 17th century. The flask was a part of the Clive of India treasure and was sold
2004年4月的蒙兀兒長頸瓶價值最高，售價達520萬美元。
for a staggering US$5.2 million in April 2004. It was Baron Clive of Plassey – the
這件瓶身鑲滿紅寶石、綠寶石和翡翠的長頸瓶，年代可追
famed Governor of Bengal and founder of British India – who brought back the large
溯至大約17世紀初的英屬印度殖民地時期。當時英屬印度
fortune in gold and jewels to England.
第一任孟加拉行政長官克萊武上任，曾將大批印度黃金珠
In October 1997, Christie’s London had its first jewellery sale devoted entirely to
寶運回英國，這件藝術精品也是其中之一。倫敦佳士得於
Indian jewellery, organised to celebrate 50 years of Indian independence. “We sold a
1997年10月首次舉辦印度珠寶拍賣會，以慶祝印度獨立
Mogul spinel-bead necklace comprised of 11 spinel beads and weighing 877 carats!“
50週年。談起當年的拍賣會，Rahul Kadakia說：「我們售
Mr Kadakia recalls. “Three of the beads were engraved with the names of the Mogul
出一條由11個尖晶石串珠組成，重達877克拉的蒙兀兒尖晶
emperors, Akbar, Jehangir and the famous emperor behind the resurrection of the Taj
石串珠項鍊。其中有三顆尖晶石上刻著三位蒙兀兒皇帝的
Mahal, Shah Jahan.
名字，分別是阿克巴、賈汗季和興建泰姬陵的沙賈汗。」
“The market has changed today as it is nearly impossible to find fine quality old
「今非昔比，現在的市場幾乎不可能再找到品質優良
Indian jewellery.” However, Mr Kadakia has witnessed a great rise in jewellers in
的古印度珠寶。」不過 Rahul Kadakia也見證了許多珠
India, who are creatively reproducing Indian designs of old, including Bombay’s
寶設計師在印度興起，他們以創意複製印度古代的珠寶設
favoured high-society jewellery designer, Viren Bhagat. Known for his fusion of
計，其中包括在孟買頗受上流社會青睞的名珠寶設計師
Mogul patterns and Art Deco influences, Mr Bhagat’s work appeared in Christie’s
Viren Bhagat。他以融合蒙兀兒圖案和裝飾藝術風格而
auctions last year.
聞名，作品於去年佳士得的拍賣會也有出現。
215 P.
Diamond and pearl drop earrings from 19th century South India
Tiger claw pendant mounted with gold and rubies from 18th century Mysore
London-based Susan Ollemans is an Indian Mogul jewellery collector who holds annual exhibitions in Hong Kong
Local trends
本地潮流
Susan Ollemans, a collector and London-based dealer with a focus on Indian
住在倫敦的Susan Ollemans專門收藏並代理印度蒙兀兒
Mogul jewellery, has been travelling to Hong Kong for the past four years to host an
珠寶飾物，過去四年，她每年定期前來香港舉辦展覽。
annual exhibition. Her fourth showing was held at Altfield Gallery, when she
2008年5月21日於Altfield Gallery舉行的「第四屆周
lined the gallery shelves with magnificent pieces of Indian heritage in the form of
年印度珠寶展」中，她在藝廊的陳列架上展出華麗而精
exquisite wearable art. “In Hong Kong, there is a big collecting community. I’ve
緻、可穿戴的藝術品。她察覺到佩戴印度珠寶的風氣近
had loyal customers for years,” she says. However, she acknowledges the recent
期有復蘇的現象，她說：「香港有為數眾多的收藏者，
resurgence in wearing Indian jewellery. “As India becomes more relaxed about
我有不少光顧多年的忠實顧客。當印度在保存個人財富
preserving their wealth, people are growing more and more interested in owning
的態度變得越來越寬鬆時，人們對於擁有個人傳統的興
their heritage.”
趣也越來越濃厚。」
The nature of antique Indian jewellery pieces is distinguished by when and where
印度的古董珠寶飾物基本上根據在印度製造的時間和
they were made in India. Ms Ollemans’ exhibition shows a contrast between two
地點作為區分。Susan Ollemans的展覽品分別來自南、
regions in India – the north and the south. The northern pieces derive from the Mogul
北印度這兩個風格迴異的地區。北印度的飾物主要來自以
period, renowned for the patron Shah Jahan and his magnificent structure, the Taj
沙賈汗和宏偉壯麗的泰姬陵而聞名的蒙兀兒時期。這些飾
Mahal. They were distinctive for their use of the kundan technique to set the coloured
物以印度特有的鎔金包鑲，利用名為Kundan的工藝技術
stones and their meena work. This involved encasing gems in ribbons of pure 24k
鑲嵌彩色寶石，以及琺瑯上釉為特色。利用Kundan技術
sparklefeaturestones Old Indian gold pendant with spinels and white sapphire
19th century Shiva Parvati pendant
Amanda Clark, co-founder of Altfield Gallery and esteemed Indian jewellery designer
South Sea Pearls and 18k gold beads strung together in a necklace
Large old Indian gold twisted bangle with rubies and turquoise from Rajasthan
gold so gems could be set before the gold hardened. The southern pieces consist
可以將鋸齒狀的寶石，穩固地嵌入尚未變硬的24K純金底
Gallery, is Amanda Clark. Her bespoke pieces are heavily influenced by Indian
of more solid gold, representing the tradition of dowry jewellery. Passed on from
座。南印度的飾物則包含較多純金，以傳統的嫁妝首飾為
craftsmanship of the past. Ancient Indian gold beads, amulets and pendants
Altfield Gallery的創辦人。她製作的珠寶飾物深受印度
mother to daughter over many generations, these pieces were used to store wealth.
代表，通常由母親傳給女兒代代相傳，具有儲蓄財富的意
combined with pearls, aquamarines, amethyst, peridots, citrines and tourmalines are
過去的手工藝影響，以珍珠、藍綠玉石、紫水晶、翠綠橄
義及目的。
combined to produce bold collections. “There is something very organic about Indian
欖石、黃水晶和碧璽等結合印度古代黃金串珠、護身符和
jewellery. You can tell that these pieces are not mass-produced. The detailed designs
吊墜，創作出造型大膽的印度珠寶系列。她說：「印度珠
are clearly the work of a skilled pair of hands.”
寶具有非常基本的特質。一看便知它們不是大規模生產。
Local Designers Local women’s accessories and jewellery brand Mantra was launched in 2004 by
本地設計師
Jill Hui and Shagun Khanna. The pair wanted to pay homage to India’s flourishing
於2004年成立Mantra品牌的Jill Hui和Shagun
heritage with a contemporary line of jewellery pieces and fashion accessories with
Khanna，以製作女性飾物和珠寶為主。她們以公司標誌
growing more interested with one-off, individual pieces such as these,” Clark says,
their logo, the “om” symbol. Their jewellery line is a perfect example of combining
「om」創作了一系列現代化的珠寶飾物，以向印度源遠
“and interestingly, more collectors are male!”
India’s “golden and olden” era with modern designs.
流長的豐富傳統致敬。其珠寶系列可說是結合印度「古老
Ms Khanna is the granddaughter of the Maharaja of Patiala. “Ever since I was a child, I used to spend hours admiring my mother’s and grandmother’s jewellery,
黃金時期」及現代設計的完美範例。 身為Patiala邦主的孫女，Shagun Khanna說：
Ms Clark sees a steady trend toward wearing Indian jewellery pieces. “People are
另一位本地的印度珠寶設計師Amanda Clark也是
這些精密繁複的設計肯定出自熟練的工匠之手。」 Amanda Clark留意到購買和配戴印度珠寶首飾有穩步 增長的趨勢，她說：「人們對於這些獨一無二、具備獨特風 格的首飾越來越感興趣，有趣的是，收藏者多半是男性。」
A long-lasting tradition Hong Kong certainly displays a rich and varied Eastern influence and this
歷久不衰的傳統
studying the designs in detail and then admiring myself wearing it,” says Ms
「我從小就經常花上好幾個小時欣賞我母親和祖母的
governs all elements of life, from fashion and jewellery to food and culture.
豐富而多樣化的東方色彩對香港影響深遠，更支配了本地
Khanna. “The Indian jewellery market has picked up tremendously in the past few
珠寶首飾，仔細研究上面的設計細節，然後戴上這
As the international and vibrant city constantly evolves with the latest trends,
從時裝和珠寶，到食物和文化等生活元素。國際性的活力
years. With India and China sharing closer ties than ever, I will not be surprised to
些首飾自娛一番。過去幾年，印度珠寶首飾市場有相當
there is no doubt that Indian jewellery is coming to the fore. Local designers as well
城市不斷推陳出新，毫無疑問印度珠寶將是珠寶精品店
find Indian designs taking a premium position in the fashion and jewellery markets
驚人的成長。隨著印度和中國建立起前所未有的密
as their international counterparts, such as Raj Mahtani and Madhu Pallo,
的下一個櫥窗主角。本地設計師及國際知名設計師如Raj
of Hong Kong.”
切關係，我相信印度設計在香港時裝和珠寶市場將佔有
are enlivening Hong Kong’s market with their exhibitions and unique take on
Mahtani和Madhu Pallo等，亦紛紛把握這股潮流，相繼
顯著的地位。」
Indian jewellery. k
在香港舉行展覽或推出造型獨特的印度珠寶飾物。k
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Old Indian gold fish pendant on fine pearls
Another local Indian jewellery designer, who is also the co-founder of Altfield
sparklefeaturecreators
JEWELLER EXTRAORDINAIRE JAMES DE GIVENCHY WEAVES WHIMSY WITH DIAMONDS AS THE NEW CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF SOTHEBY’S EXCLUSIVE LINE
著名珠寶設計師James de Givenchy擔任蘇富比專屬系列的 新創作總監，以鑽石表達天馬行空的想像力 TEXT BY EMILIE YABUT-RAZON PHOTOGRAPHY BY JASON TO
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sparklefeaturecreators His striking aristocratic features, easy gait and captivating smile aren’t the only reasons why women around him are swooning. For the past decade, collections of the most imaginative, stunningly elaborate pieces of jewellery have emerged from James de Givenchy’s exclusive Madison Avenue salon, capturing many a lady’s fancy. This fall, however, the jeweller turns his charms toward Asia, as he releases a collection of limited-edition pieces in line with his new role at Sotheby’s Diamonds. De Givenchy’s non-traditional approach to fine jeweller y design, seen mainly through his whimsical interpretations of nature and the mundane, has made him one of the most sought-after designers of today. Sources of inspiration “come from ever ywhere,” says the artist. “Shapes. Something you see from the corner of your eye. Two lines. Things like that.” De Givenchy admits his talent is firmly rooted in his love of graphic design, with his goal “to create pieces that are fun and versatile.” A healthy disregard for convention transmits into his inventive use of materials not commonly seen in haute joaillerie. Unlikely combinations of rubber and diamonds, stainless steel mountings and vintage stones give his jewellery an original yet timeless air. Even with his exclusive line, Taffin, the artist revels in diversity. “I like to play with shapes and bold colours, using different cuts and (a myriad of) gems.” The story of his success is just as intriguing. As De Givenchy relates, it was entirely by chance that his love affair with jewellery began. In the 1980s, the designer moved from his native Paris to New York in search of inspiration. Hailing from a family of artists and nephew of the renowned couture icon Hubert de Givenchy, it was no surprise that his path led him to train at the Fashion Institute of Technology. However, in a simple - and somehow lucky - twist of fate, he ended up in Los Angeles running the jewellery department at Christie’s Auction House. “From then on everything just made sense, especially since my family was in fashion. It was a great way to do something parallel without repeating.” In 1996, after a brief stint at Verdura, De Givenchy decided to return to New York to launch his own brand, which he labelled Taffin after his middle name. “It made total sense to me when I started to understand how things were made, I just fell in love with
卓越不群的高貴儀態、輕鬆的步伐和迷人的微笑，並不 是James de Givenchy迷倒身邊女性的唯一原因。過去十 年，他僅此一家的個人品牌專賣店在麥迪遜大道嶄露頭 角，以富於想像力、製作精美的珠寶飾品，擄獲許多女性 的芳心。今年秋季，這位才華洋溢的珠寶設計師將魅力 放送到亞洲，發表以蘇富比創作總監身分為Sotheby’s Diamonds設計的限量系列飾品。 De Givenchy設計高級珠寶的手法不落俗套，主要表達 了他觀察大自然和塵世間事物的天馬行空想像，使他成為 現今最炙手可熱的設計師之一。談到自己的靈感來源時， 他說：「來自所有地方。例如各種形狀、從眼角看到的某 些東西、兩條線等等，類似這樣的東西。」 他的才華深深紮根於個人對於平面造型設計的愛好。 De Givenchy承認自己喜歡「創作有趣而變化多端的作 品」。他令人讚嘆的設計手法不受傳統限制，經常以創新 的方式，巧妙利用高級訂製珠寶鮮少使用的材質。例如將 橡膠和鑽石、不鏽鋼鑲嵌和古董寶石結合在一起，使他設 計的珠寶飾物帶有一種原創而永恆的風格。 甚至他的個人品牌Taffin也表現出這種千變萬化的特 質。他說：「我喜歡玩形狀和大膽的顏色，使用不同的切 割方式和各式各樣的寶石。」 他的成功經歷跟作品同樣吸引。回想起來，De Givenchy說他對珠寶的愛好完全是無心插柳的結果。這 位現在已經闖出名堂的珠寶設計師在1980年代，從土生 土長的巴黎前來紐約尋找靈感。來自藝術家庭，並且身 為著名服裝設計師Hubert de Givenchy的侄子，他順理 成章地進入Fashion Institute of Technology（FIT）接受 正規訓練。然而命運的安排，或許也有點運氣的成分， 他最後在洛杉磯佳士得拍賣公司覓得一職，負責珠寶部 門。他說：「從那時開始，一切對我來說都具有意義， 尤其因為我的家族都在時裝界，能夠從事不同卻相關的 行業實在很棒。」
OPPOSITE PAGE Pear-cut fancy yellow diamond pendant earrings surrounded by pave diamonds, totalling 14.75 carats 一對梨形切割彩黃鑽垂掛式耳 環，密鑲鑽石，總重14.75卡拉
Two-carat fancy intense blue pear-cut and 2.03 carat pear-cut with pave shank ring 兩顆一卡拉的梨形切割濃彩藍 鑽，戒指環身部分密鑲總重 2.03卡拉的梨形切割鑽石
TOP TO BOTTOM Rubber bracelet set with round brilliants and pave detailing, totalling 14.26 carats 一隻鑲有圓形閃鑽的橡膠手鐲， 總重14.75卡拉
A pair of round brilliant sleeper earrings with pave-set diamonds in a floral motif, totalling 4.04 carats
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一對圓形多面切割鑽石耳環，以 鑲鑽框架製成花形圖案，總重 4.04卡拉
A pair of emerald-cut fancy vivid yellow diamonds weighing 10.22 and 10.13 carats, respectively, set in a drop rectangular frame with pavediamond detail 一對祖母綠切割艷彩黃鑽，各重 10.22卡拉及10.13卡拉，以鑽石 鑲邊再嵌入菱形鑲鑽框架
sparklefeaturecreators the whole process of manufacturing, design and experimenting with jewellery.” Fast-forward 12 years to the present and De Givenchy has recently been appointed as the new creative director of Sotheby’s Diamonds, the retail jewellery arm of the oldest auction house in the world. When asked about his new role, de Givenchy replies, “I think it will be about redefining the whole look, finding a style that works a little more cohesively.” The designer was first commissioned by Sotheby’s to create a 15-piece collection using rare diamonds from its retail partner, the Steinmetz Diamond Group. This latest series is an offshoot from this 2006 collection, with some pieces created specifically for Hong Kong. There are four new additions, with others slight variations of the originals. Faithful to his design mantra, the pieces de Givenchy has created for Sotheby’s Diamonds are bold and eye-catching. But the focus is clearly not on the size of the gems, but rather the uniqueness in which the stones are integrated. He explains, “If you’re going to buy something that is top of the line, then it has to be special. In this business, some people buy a ring for as much as US$500,000 and they don’t expect much more than a big stone. The key thing for us would be to offer a complete package, a unique design with excellent craftsmanship and quality.” For his next collection for Sotheby’s, the designer is thinking about incorporating more coloured stones, including emeralds and sapphires. “Every year there will be a new collection and for the next one, I’m thinking of doing it specifically around a theme. You are going to see colours broadened.” And what of Taffin? De Givenchy is happy to keep his business small and intimate. “With globalisation today, I think it’s a lot more sexy to our clients that there’s only one place you can find us. I like the feeling of exclusivity, like finding a small shop in Venice tucked away and coming back to New York knowing that only you found it.” k
1996年，De Givenchy結束在Verdura的短暫職務之 後，決定回到紐約開創個人品牌，並且以自己的中間名 字Taffin命名。他說：「當我對這一行的認識越來越深之 後，我認為這是正確的決定。珠寶飾物的整個製造過程、 設計以及實驗都令我愛不釋手。」 12年匆匆地過去了，不久之前De Givenchy接受世界 最古老的拍賣行－－蘇富比的聘請，擔任其珠寶零售部門 Sotheby's Diamonds的新創作總監。 問到他自己對這個新角色的看法時，De Givenchy回 答說：「我想我的任務應該是重新定義整個形象，找到更 協調一致的搭配和風格。」他最初與蘇富比的合作，是受 託以蘇富比的零售拍檔Steinmetz Diamond Group所提供 的稀有鑽石，製作15件珠寶飾物。目前展示的最新系列是 2006年系列的延續，其中包括了一部分專為香港市場創 作的飾物。除了四件新作之外，其餘均是以原作為藍本再 稍加變化。 恪守自己原創設計精神，De Givenchy為Sotheby's Diamonds所創作的飾物依然大膽而引人注目。不過他的 焦點顯然不在寶石的大小，而在於搭配不同寶石所產生的 獨特性。他解釋道：「如果你想購買最高級的飾品，當然 應該挑選最特殊的。在這一行，有人買一枚高達50萬美元 的戒指，可能只買到上面那一顆大寶石。對我們來說，最 重要的是提供完整的配套，包括獨特的設計加上優秀卓越 的技巧和品質。」 他為蘇富比創作的下一個系列考慮採用更多彩色寶 石，包括綠寶石和藍寶石，他說：「每一年我們都會推出 新的系列，下一個系列我會根據一個特別的主題去創作， 你將會看到更廣泛的顏色。」 至於Taffin 呢？De Givenchy說他樂於維持小型精緻 的規模，他表示：「在全球化的今天，我想全世界僅此 一間別無分號，會令顧客覺得更性感。我喜歡獨一無二 的感覺，就像在威尼斯找到一間隱蔽的小店，回到紐約 才知道只有我找到這間店那樣的感覺。 k
OPPOSITE PAGE Sotheby’s Diamonds looks to a bolder, more colourful future with James De Givenchy at the helm 在James De Givenchy的帶領下， Sothheby's Diamonds正迎向一個 更大膽、色彩更斑斕的將來
THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM Fancy intense yellow pear-shaped diamond ear pendants weighing more than five carats each, designed as elegant drops, pave set with diamonds and mounted in 18k yellow gold, platinum and steel 一對梨形切割濃彩黃鑽耳環吊 墜，各重超過5卡拉，優雅的水 滴形設計，密鑲鑽石，以18K黃 金、鉑金和精鋼鑲嵌
Spoon pendant earrings with a pair of round brilliant-cut diamonds and pave details, totalling 4.02 carats 這對湯匙造型的垂掛式耳環上有 兩顆圓形多面切割鑽石，以鑽石 鑲邊，總重4.02卡拉
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Couture Jewels FROM LEGENDARY DESIGN INNOVATOR SWAROVSKI COMES A SPANKING NEW LINE WHERE HIGH IMPACT GEMS MEET THE POWER OF CREATIVE EXPRESSION
藝術是新的搖滾。今天的珠寶首飾不但引人注意、令人愛不釋手，更因著新 財富的刺激及日趨純熟的風格而成為藝術精品。
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TEXT: RESHAM ARON & EMILIE YABUT-RAZON ILLUSTRATION: JIMMY WANG
sparklefeaturestones
British artist Damien Hirst’s life-size platinum skull
covered in 8,601 diamonds reveals how close the world of jew-
ellery and fine art has become. The spectacular 1,106-carat showstopper of his Beyond Belief exhibition proves that even the darkest of subjects can be transformed into bling.
In the same way, art is finding its way into famous jewellers’ repertoire, much like how Theo Fennel’s exhibition featured installations, paintings and sculptures to showcase his pieces, and Gianni Bulgari’s Enigma brand showed photographs of their jewels mounted on canvas and hung like paintings. The increasing overlap between these two worlds is something luxury brands like Swarovski have decided to nurture. This year, the jeweller and crystal maker launched Enlightened - Swarovski Elements, a brand for genuine and created gemstones centered on the concept of the jewel being much such as art - a powerful tool for self expression. David Cohen, head of Swarovski’s strategic business development department, explains. “What we have decided to do is to extend the reach of our product offering into genuine and creative stones. These represent a logical extension of our brand and it allows us to leverage our capability in cutting and harnessing the internal light that is in these materials.” In line with the launch of Enlightened, Swarovski has invited twelve of the world’s best designers from different fields of expertise to create their ultimate vision of what makes a one-of-a-kind high jewellery piece. “We provided the raw materials and let them create their own fantasies. The designs created are unique and not available in the retail market,” says Mr Cohen. “In fact, some gemstones were specially hand-cut for the project.” Topping the list are visionary architect Zaha Hadid, and jewellers Christine J Brandt, Stephen Webster and Patrick Mauboussin.
英國藝術大師Damien Hirst在人形骷 髏頭骨上別開生面地鑲嵌8,601顆鑽石，並置於其「難以置信」展覽會中。這
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件1,106克拉的鉑金鑽石展品，不只異常矚目，還揭示出珠寶世界與藝術領域本無牴觸， 黑色的主題也能閃出詭譎的光芒。 同樣，藝術色彩也傾注在珠寶設計大師的作品裡︰Theo Fennel以裝置藝術、油畫和 雕塑去展現他的珠寶靈感；Gianni Bulgari旗下的Enigma品牌，把珠寶首飾的造型照貼在 油畫布上，儼如一幅又一幅的掛畫作品。珠寶界與藝術界的分野日漸朦朧，這是奢侈品牌 Swarovski喜聞樂見並大力倡導的。 今年，珠寶兼水晶設計品牌打造出全新路線Enlightened – Swarovski Elements，把 天然或人造寶石首飾當作藝術作品表達，極具個人韻致。 Swarovski策略業務發展部主管David Cohen說：「我們決定將產品的範圍擴大到新的 材質，也就是天然和人造寶石，這是我們品牌發展的合理延伸，我們可以利用卓越的切割 功力，將材質內部的光芒表現出來。」 乘Enlightened品牌推出之勢，Swarovski邀請十二位來自不同範疇的世界知名設計 師，發揮其創作風格，各自打造出舉世無雙的珠寶精品。 「我們提供原材料給設計師，讓他們天馬行空地自由創作。他們的創作不但獨一無 二，而且任何零售店都買不到。」Cohen更稱：「當中部份寶石更是為此創作計劃而人手 切割呢。」 應邀創作的頂級設計師，包括︰高瞻遠矚的建築師Zaha Hadid、珠寶設計大師 Christine J Brandt 、Stephen Webster及Patrick Mauboussin等等。 Gem Visions Couture系列是名家傑作的總匯，例如︰寶石切割先驅John Dyer、英國 得獎設計師Shaun Leane、倫敦環保珠寶商Pippa Small以及高級服裝刺繡大師Geraldine Larkin等作品。來自香港Unicorn Jewellery的設計師方潔然以繁花錦簇為黃金手鐲的靈 魂；而杜拜高級珠寶商Damas則以彩石打造蝶舞翩翩的頸鏈。
PREVIOUS PAGE “For the Love of God” by Damien Hirst THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM CZlebrate Light necklace from Topgold Hong Kong; Mr. David Cohen, head of Swarovski’s strategic business development; Genuine citrine, spessartite, black spinel and diamond ring by Xavier Molave of Thailand’s Moragen; Coloured CZs in 925 silver, Glenise Lam of PAJ Group, USA; Coloured sapphire ring with diamonds and baroque pearl in 18k gold by Alessio Boschi of Autore Australia
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The Gem Visions Couture collection also includes works from pioneer gem cutter John Dyer, British awardwinning designer Shaun Leane, London-based eco-jeweller Pippa Small and couture embroiderer Geraldine Larkin. From Hong Kong, Jessica Fong of Unicorn Jewellery came up an elaborate floral bracelet in gold, while fine jeweller Damas from Dubai created a multicoloured gemstone butterfly necklace. Dr Briget Rieder, head of the company’s gem creative unit explains how the gems are produced. “All stones are cut and polished in Swarovski’s own factories using sophisticated technology and advanced R&D. Each gem is crafted to meet the most stringent criteria of colour, clarity, size and shape, resulting in uniformity of calibration and quality unrivalled in the industry.” The Enlightened range of genuine stones includes sapphires, rubies, rhodolite, peridots, amethysts, citrines and topaz in a seductive spectrum of colours.
TREND WATCH So what do jewellery lovers need to look out for in 2009? Swarovski happens to lead in the discussion of major design directions and influences with Gem Visions, an annual trend and design book created specifically for the fine jewellery market. Dr Rieder, believes that unique and high impact stones are key. “The frenzied appetite for gemstones that we have seen in the past few years continues to gather momentum, with increasing interest in coloured gems, especially in rare, intriguing specimens, with subtle, indefinable tones and a magnetic brilliance. “For 2009, one of the important trends will be the amulet; a very personal piece of jewellery with gemstones hidden inside it,” Dr Rieder says. “The wearer can decide if they wish to show or hide the gemstones. In terms of colour, [there will be] more subtle tones such as light pink, subtle green, turquoise, black with soft green or purple. The focus on light, its energy, emotion and spiritual dimension, and its ability to conjure up visions will, we believe, be an important factor in fine jewellery throughout the year. “We believe the possibilities for gemstones are endless, as infinite and inspirational as your imagination,” says Dr Rieder. “The Enlightened – Swarovski Elements not only gives sparkle, but it also gives you the history, tradition, passion, and inspiration that goes into each work of art.” k
NEXT PAGE Gemstone and stainless steel watch locket by Amy Chow of Gordon C & Co. Ltd, Hong Kong THIS PAGE, TOP TO BOTTOM Dr. Briget Rieder, head of Swarovski’s gem creative unit; genuine gemstones and 18k gold by Mei Lin of TTF Studio, China; jewellery designed by Zaha Hadid, Patrick Maubossin and Tamjid Abdullah from Damas for Gem Vision Couture 2009
Swarovski的寶石創作小組負責人Briget Rieder博士解釋寶石製作程序︰「所有天然原 石都經Swarovski工廠切割及拋光。我們採用最純熟的技術並引入先進的研發，以維持嚴 格的標準。經過琢磨，每一顆寶石的顏色、純淨度、尺寸和形狀都能夠符合最高要求，達 到整齊劃一的等級和品質，在業內可謂無出其右。」 Enlightened所用的天然寶石種類繁多，包括各種顏色鮮豔的寶石，如藍寶石、紅寶 石、玫瑰榴石、橄欖石、紫水晶、黃水晶和黃玉等。
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究竟2009年珠寶首飾有何新趨勢? Swarovski自有答案。該公司為高級珠寶市場的未來設 計走向召開會議討論，並將研究收錄在一年一度出版的《Gem Visions》設計大全中。 Rieder博士相信優質而設計獨特的珠寶會成為大熱。「過去幾年人們對寶石狂熱起 來，未來這股熱情還會繼續燃燒，其中對彩石的興趣會越來越高，尤其以罕見而迷人的珍 品、含蓄而色澤難以定調的美石以及閃耀發亮的寶石最受人追捧。」 「至於2009年的主要趨勢，其中之一是護身符裝飾，就是把寶石藏在其中並貼身佩戴 的一種飾物。」Rieder更說︰「佩戴者可自行決定將寶石外露或隱藏。至於顏色方面，將 會流行比較含蓄的淺色調，如淺粉紅色、淡綠、青綠、或黑中帶綠或帶紫等。重點將會 放在光彩、能量發放和精神層面裡，畢竟它具備召喚感應的能力，我們相信，這將會是 2009年高級珠寶首飾的重要流行因素。」 「我們認為寶石有無限可能性，正如人類的想像力也是無邊無際，帶給我們無窮的靈 感。」Rieder揚言︰「Enlightened – Swarovski Elements不僅閃亮耀眼，也透過每件作 品給人帶來歷史傳統、激情和靈感，以及許多喜悅與滿足。」k
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Feast your eyes and tickle your senses with some of the most mouthwatering gems in town photography: davide butson-fIori photography assistANT: jason to
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White gold and pave diamond cocktail rings with oval beryl and emerald-cut SPARKLE PP.89 rubelite from Garrard
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OPPOSITE PAGE De Beers’ yellow gold ring with 49 polished and rough diamonds THIS PAGE Babylon Medal pendant in 18k gold with 47 polished and rough diamonds from De Beers’ SPARKLE PP.89 Talisman collection
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OPPOSITE PAGE Intrecciato antique silver multistone buckle bracelet from Bottega Veneta THIS PAGE Intrecciato antique silver multistone necklace from Bottega Veneta
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OPPOSITE PAGE White gold aquamarine and diamond necklace, bracelet and ring, from Garrard’s Regal collection THIS PAGE Yellow gold “Mace” pendant with 20 diamonds SPARKLE PP.89 from De Beers
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OPPOSITE PAGE Colourful cocktail rings from Arte Madrid’s Reina and Deseo collections
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THIS PAGE Ice on Fire ring, white gold with 135 diamonds totalling 6.56 P.90 SPARKLE carats, De Beers
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OPPOSITE PAGE Sun Medal pendant in white gold with diamonds from De Beers’ Talisman collection THIS PAGE Yellow, pink tourmaline and garnet necklace, Garrard’s Raj SPARKLE PP.89 Lotus collection
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CH ILLED ON ICE
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Temps are dropping and it’s the season to get cozy... time to bring out the bling. Here’s our picks of the season’s most brilliant ‘iced’ candy for your wrist
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EDITED BY PRIYANKA BOGHANI
1. Eight hundred and twenty baguette-cut diamonds glisten on the Assioma
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D’s 18k white gold case, dial and bracelet. One rose-cut diamond embellishes the crown of this luxurious watch from the Bulgari High Jewellery collection. Bvlgari的Assioma D在18K白金錶殼、錶面和錶帶上共鑲有820顆長階梯形切割鑽石，錶 冠裝飾著一顆Bvlgari玫瑰切割鑽石，使這款豪華鑽錶顯得更加貴氣十足。
2. Fitted with a hand-wound movement, this elaborate piece from
the Les Elegantes de Longines collection has an engraved case in 18k white gold studded with diamonds. 浪琴錶的 Les Elegantes de Longines 系列，配以鑽石點綴的18k 白金外殼及手動上鏈機芯
3. From the A. Lange & Söhne’s jewelled watch collection, the Little Lange 1
Soiree is a masterpiece accented with a diamond-crowned 18k white gold case. Sixty-three sparkling stones are arranged around the two time displays on the mother-of-pearl dial. A. Lange & Söhne的Little Lange 1 Soiree鑽石腕錶系列，18K白金錶殼搭配鑲鑽錶 冠，是品牌的經典傑作。珍珠貝母錶面的兩個時間顯示區總共鑲有63顆閃亮鑽石。
4. Juicy Couture’s “Royal” glitters with Swarovski baguettes around its rectangular case, with the beginning of a fairy tale etched on the mother-of-pearl dial. The interlinked bracelet comes in stainless steel. Juicy Couture的Royal腕錶，長方形錶殼周圍嵌上閃耀著長階梯形切割的施華洛世奇水 晶，珍珠貝母錶面刻有童話故事，以不鏽鋼錶帶連接。
5. Chopard’s Diamond Timepiece is a sparkling play on patterns with a spiral
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diamond-set dial and baguette and pave diamond-studded bracelet and buckle. Chopard的Diamond Timepiece腕錶，錶面密鑲鑽石形成螺旋形圖案。錶圈、錶帶及錶 扣均以長階梯形切割的鑽石密鑲圍邊。
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6. Chanel’s Montre Premiere Ceramique Blanche Diamants revisits the 1987 Premiere with its octagonal set in 18k white gold. The highlight of this piece is the white ceramic links on the bracelet framed by elegant diamonds. Chanel推出18K白金八角型錶殼的Montre Premiere Ceramique Blanche Diamants，再度將1987年的經典錶款Premiere Chanel帶返人間。錶帶上以典雅美鑽鑲 邊的白色陶瓷是這個款式的重點。
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BRILL IANT FR OST
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冬季來臨，正當全球眾多城市覆蓋著一層靄靄 白雪之際，鑲上閃爍亮眼鑽石的高貴腕錶卻帶 給人熱情洋溢的感覺。看看我們精心挑選本季 最出色的銀色腕錶系列，感受一下有如凝霜的 白色水晶戴在手腕上所帶來的暖意。
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7. Montblanc’s Star Lady Gold Moonphase Automatic shimmers with a total of 104 baguette-cut diamonds and a mother-of-pearl dial set on an 18k white gold case. This dainty piece with satin-lined strap comes from the Profile Lady Elegance Diamonds collection. Montblanc 這款雅致動人的Star Lady Gold Moonphase Automatic腕錶，來自Montblanc的 Profile Lady Elegance Diamonds系列。總共鑲有104顆長階梯形切割的無瑕鑽石，珍珠貝母錶面搭
配18K白金錶殼更顯亮麗，以緞面襯底的布帶為錶帶。
8. Piaget’s elaborate cuff celebrates the glitz and glam of fashion capitals New York and
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Paris. This brilliant timepiece has an 18k white gold case set with 620 brilliant-cut and eight pear-cut diamonds from the Limelight Paris- New York collection. Piaget以精心製作的袖環設計腕錶向艷光四射、魅力無窮的時尚之都紐約和巴黎致敬。這款Limelight Paris- New York系列腕錶，造型出色，配備18K白金錶殼，嵌有620顆多面切割的鑽石以及8顆梨形切 割鑽石。
9. Toywatch’s Spider Small is an exquisite art piece featuring a spider etched on a dial fully set with white crystals that continue on to the strap. The watch is framed by a steel bezel glittered with baguette-cut stones. Toywatch的Spider Small腕錶可說是一件製作精美的藝術品，密鑲白色水晶石的錶面鑲嵌著蜘蛛圖 案，並且將相同的元素延續到錶帶，不鏽鋼錶圈鑲嵌著長階梯形切割的寶石。
10. Tiret’s Splash is a bejewelled piece with a diamond decorated dial and bezel. From
the Moments collection, the watch has a dual time function highlighted by Tiret’s famous Splash logo on a blue mother-of-pearl dial. Tiret的Splash鑽飾腕錶搭配飾以鑽石鑲嵌的錶圈及錶面。這款來自Moments系列的款式具備雙計時功 能，藍色珍珠貝母錶面飾有Tiret著名的Splash標誌。
11. Van Cleef & Arpels’ latest jewellery watch has a lucky four-leaf clover charm and a revolving bezel decorated with three intricate rows of diamonds forming a sun pattern effect. The Charms watch has an 18k white gold case and satin strap. 這款Van Cleef & Arpels最新的Charms鑽石腕錶，可旋轉的活動錶圈上掛有一枚四葉幸運草吊墜，錶 圈上飾有三排鑽石，以同心圓的方式排列，組成太陽光芒的效果，配備18K白金錶殼和緞面錶帶。
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12. Technomarine mixes sporty with glam in the UF6 Diamond, a dazzling watch
studded in 3.3 carats of pavé white and black diamonds on the stainless steel bezel and dial, combined with a stylish rubber strap. Technomarine的UF6 Diamond結合動感與魅力，不鏽鋼錶圈及錶面上密鑲共3.3卡拉的白鑽和黑鑽， 搭配時髦的橡膠錶帶。
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Vanessa Herrera
A Cartier watch from her father started her love affair with horology
Mui Kiu
Enter the private
grew up surrounded by her father’s horological genius
world of three women with an exclusive passion. Sotheby’s watch auctions expert Vanessa Herrera leads
Lisa Hung
has an eye for complications and future trends
BOUDOIR SECRETS
the way 女士們選擇最佳伴侶時會 考慮哪些因素？我們指的
Women are complicated. Though men have known this for centuries, this ancient wisdom is just beginning to dawn on the watch world. Baffling the opposite sex is the inadvertent result of the female quest for perfection. Be it finding the perfect heels or little black dress, it should come as no surprise that women employ the same exacting standards when choosing a companion of the horological variety. For luxury-conscious females, our minds are arranged like a boudoir, carefully colour coordinated in a rainbow array, lined with bejewelled handstitched creations, with our distinct personal style lingering in the air like an intoxicating perfume. 女 士 們 的 心 思 縝 密 ， 這 是 幾 個 世 紀 以 來 男 士 們 已 知 的 事 實 。 但 從 現 在 起 ， 女 士 們
是鐘錶。蘇富比腕錶拍賣 專家Vanessa Herrera為
你細述真相，男士不需再 費盡思量
還將縝密的心思用於選擇鐘錶之上。追求完美是女士們的使命，這有時會令男士 們大惑不解。不論是為了尋找最完美的那雙高跟鞋或是那條小黑裙，亦或是為自 己添購最佳的計時良伴時，女士們都會使用相同的準則。具備奢華品味的女士， 有著像是在佈置閨房般的細膩心思，最擅長以巧思為睡房添上繽紛的色彩，精選 手工縫製的瑰麗裝飾，盡顯婉約的個人風格，像散放於空氣中的迷人香氛，歷久 不散。 為了清楚了解為何有些女士會選擇收藏鐘錶這玩意，我決定與幾位香港的女性 鐘錶收藏家詳談，每一位都有其獨到之處，我邀請你與我共享她們的故事。Mui Kiu的父親是個鐘錶收藏家，自小在耳濡目染之下，她在鐘錶拍賣方面更發展出
走向。她的眾多收藏當中，最具代表性的一件收藏要算是一只男士萬年曆腕錶， 腕錶的粉藍色錶帶洋溢著頹廢美學的色彩。Lisa Young則熱愛鑽錶及魅力四射的 鐘錶款式，她最愛與伯爵錶的支持者及其他鐘錶收藏家分享收藏名錶的心得。
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Hung十分熱衷於名錶收藏，特別喜歡複雜功能鐘錶，更特別留意未來鐘錶設計的
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的專業的鑑賞力。她喜愛的鐘錶類型較為成熟穩重，特別喜歡古董珍藏。Lisa
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To understand how hundreds of mechanical toys end up in the closets of certain women, I decided to speak with three of Hong Kong’s top female watch collectors. I invite you to discover their distinct personal stories. Mui Kiu grew up surrounded by her father’s horological genius and developed her expertise at auction. Her taste in watches exudes sophistication, particularly for vintage treasures. Lisa Hung is an avid watch collector with an eye for complications and future trends. Her signature is a gentleman’s perpetual calendar on a decadent pastel blue strap.
VH：可否形容一下妳的風格以及妳的腕錶收藏？
A devotee of diamond timepieces and an advocate of versatile glamour, Lisa Young brings her horological infatuation with collectors.
MK：我的收藏風格可分為兩部分：投資收藏及個人收藏。投資類型的收藏 很單純，我會買入認為有升值潛力的腕錶。個人收藏方面，我則會買入我喜 歡的腕錶，這類腕錶可能並不昂貴，在價格方面可能沒有升值空間，但全部
VH: Most collectors remember the first watch that ignited their passion. My first love was a Cartier watch that my father bought me for my sixteenth birthday. What started your love affair with watches?
都是我喜歡的腕錶。我會配戴我個人收藏的腕錶，投資收藏則會密封起來並
MK: I started buying small ladies’ diamond watches when I was around 20. I didn’t consider them as collectibles, but thought the watches looked nice and I could wear them as bracelets. I saw them more like pieces of jewellery than timepieces. In 2003, I started my career at an auction house, and the more I got to know about watches, the more I wanted to collect. Since then I haven’t stopped… LH: I began collecting watches when I got my first salary. My first watch was a Cartier that I bought together with my mom. Since I was a kid, I’ve loved watches very much. My mom also bought me a Seiko and Citizen when I was in primary school. I thought it was really practical. It’s funny – I remember as a kid wondering how the machine can tell time and wanting to know what’s inside the watchcase. I also remember our family physician, an avid watch collector in HK, always wore complicated watches and shared information with me. LY: I received my first watch from my father for my high school graduation - a Rolex. Then, a Cartier Panthere for my university graduation. From then on I started my watch collecting. For me a watch is an investment as well as a beautiful timepiece. I am a very punctual person so wearing a watch is very important. At the same time it is also a nice piece of jewellery. 大 部 分 的 收 藏 家 都 記 得 那 只 令 他 們 愛 上 鐘 錶 收 藏 的 首 只 腕 錶 。 我
LY：我的收藏喜好十分廣泛，有較為休閒的款式，亦有珍貴的珠寶類型，
放在保險櫃裡。 LH：經典款式及複雜功能的鐘錶，另外有些則屬於時尚款式及鑲鑽的腕 錶。 有Panerais，也有伯爵錶等等...... VH：女士們，妳們喜歡鑽錶還是複雜功能錶？ MK：我喜歡鑽錶，但不喜歡過度裝飾的鑽錶。我喜歡鑲鑽的錶圈，但不喜 歡鑲有太多珠寶的腕錶。我每天配戴的一只腕錶便有鑲鑽的錶圈。如果是收 藏品的話，我較為偏愛複雜功能錶，我個人的意見是，因為腕錶始終是機械 化的物品，我們應該看中其技術性，不能只考量裝飾功能。 LH：六成是複雜功能錶，四成是鑽錶。
THIS PAGE: Mui Kui and Lisa Hung both own the Patek Philippe 5712 Nautilus moon phase with power reserve. A rose gold version is around HK$350,000
LY：鑽錶。 VH：腕錶一直到19世紀末才漸露頭角受到注意，但是始終被視為是女士們 的首飾。諷刺的是，腕錶現在被視為是男士的必備裝束。妳認為各大鐘錶製 造商目前如何看待女士腕錶？妳認為這些品牌應該為女士們做些什麼？
VH: Could you describe your collecting style and your watch collection? MK：我不認為各大品牌重視女性市場，特別是製造商從未推出專為女性設
的「初戀」是一只卡地亞腕錶，那是我父親在我16歲那年送給我
THIS PAGE: This birthday present started Vanessa Herrera’s love affair with watches
的生日禮物。妳們的鐘錶收藏「初戀」對象是哪只腕錶？ VH：大部分的收藏家都記得那只令他們愛上鐘錶收藏的首只腕錶。 我的「初戀」是一只卡地亞腕錶，那是我父親在我16歲那年送給我的生 日禮物。妳們的鐘錶收藏「初戀」對象是哪只腕錶？ MK：大約在20歲時我開始買小型的女士鑽錶。當時並沒有將它們看待 成收藏品，只覺得鑽錶很美而且可以像手鏈一樣配戴，對我來說不像是 腕錶，反而比較像是首飾。2003年那一年，我在一間拍賣行展開我的職 業生涯，在我對腕錶有更多了解後，我就更想收藏它們。之後就再也停 不了...... LH：我第一次領到薪水後便開始收藏腕錶。我的首只腕錶是和我母親 合資購買的一只卡地亞腕錶。自小我便很喜歡腕錶，小學時我母親曾買 過精工錶及Citizen腕錶給我，我認為它們的實用性很高。我記得小時候 我總是在想為何腕錶能夠計時，很想打開錶殼一探究竟，真的很好笑。
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我的醫生總是戴著一款複雜功能錶，因為他喜歡腕錶、攝影以及旅行， 總會與我分享關於鐘錶有關的資訊。我很仰慕他，一直以來都對他十分 尊敬。 LY：我中學畢業時收到我父親送給我的第一只腕錶，那是一只勞力士腕 錶。大學畢業時則收到一只卡地亞Panthere，之後我便開始收藏腕錶。 對我來說，腕錶既是投資亦是美麗的時計。我是個守時的人，所以配戴 腕錶對我來說很重要。此外，腕錶也是相當不錯的首飾。
MK: My style of collecting consists of two parts – the investment part and my own collection. The investment part is simple – I buy the watches because I see there is potential for them to increase in value. My own collection is the watches I like. Not necessarily expensive, they might remain the same value forever but I just like them. I also wear my collection, not like the investment items, which I keep sealed and in the safe. LH: Classic pieces and complications, some of the watches I have are quite trendy and diamond set. LY: I have a very wide-ranging collection from casual to high jewellery pieces, from Panerais to Piagets.... VH: Okay ladies, diamonds or complications? MK: I love diamonds but not too much on a watch. I like a nice diamond set bezel, but not heavily jewelled watches. My everyday watch is a watch with a diamond bezel. If you talk about collecting watches, I prefer complications as a watch is a mechanical object, just my own opinion, we should appreciate the watch more from the technical side rather than as purely decoration. LH: Complications 60%, Diamonds 40%. LY: Diamonds. VH: By the late 19th century, the wristwatch was starting to become more visible, but it was still largely considered as an item of jewellery for ladies. Ironically, wristwatches are now viewed as a man’s accoutrement. What do you think watch brands are doing for women today? What do you think they should be doing to specially cater to the fairer sex? MK: I don’t think the brands are doing a lot for women, particularly as they have never designed a function just for women. The brands normally launch new decorative designs for ladies but not with a new function. Maybe the brands can consider something function-specific for female users.
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sparklestylehigh time VH: I’ve noticed more women opting for men’s watches, mostly due to the range of complications available and the boldness of an elegant man’s watch. What do you think is the future trend for women’s watches?
LY: There is a lack of creativity. Most of the luxury watchmakers are coming out with very similar designs. Once upon a time women wore only quartz watches but now they are becoming more interested in the movement. Attractive design is still the main reason why women make a watch purchase, after that they will consider the movement. Limited editions are also an important factor. Watches have become a status symbol and a fashion piece. In order for luxury watch brands to sell more watches we have to keep up with the trends, some what similar to bags and shoes, to create the desire for customers to want to buy a new watch each season.
MK: I believe future trends for women will probably evolve from simple quartz diamond watches to more complications. I see more tourbillion ladies watches these days that I didn’t see 10 years ago. Normally those items were reserved only for men. LH: We will still see big sizes and maybe more variety of dial designs, different coloured diamonds and gemstones, because we already have different case shapes, such as round, oval, tonneau, square, rectangular, or oversized. LY: I believe large size watches will continue, but not oversized ones. Bracelet watches will be more in demand. Watches that can be interchangeable from bracelet to leather strap are becoming more popular because women want watches they can wear dressed up or down. Price point is also important for each brand. For example a ladies watch priced around HK$200,000 to HK$300,000 is easily acceptable for luxury watch buyers. VH：妳夢想中的完美鐘錶是怎麼樣的？
FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: The PAM 30 Diamond Luminor from Panerai is one of Lisa Hung’s favourite watches A. Lange & Söhne’s Langematik is a special piece, with a perpetual calendar and moon phase display with zero reset mechanism
VH: I always advise my clients to know their ABCDs when buying a watch. A-uction value, B-rand, C-ondition, D-emand for the piece. What qualities do you look for when choosing a watch?
大膽的外型亦吸引女士。妳認為女士腕錶的未來走向會是怎麼樣的？
由更換皮錶帶及鏈錶帶的手錶亦會受到歡迎，因為女士們可以隨意選擇錶帶來搭配服飾。主要品牌的定 價亦很重要。例如，對於伯爵錶的顧客來說，她們對於定價介於20萬至30萬港元的腕錶接受程度頗高。 VH：女士們請謹記，買之前先試過。對於其他想開始收藏鐘錶的女士們，妳會提供哪些建議？ MK：我的建議很簡單：真的喜歡才買。妳首先一定要喜歡那只腕錶，不要盲目跟隨潮流。一旦開始收 藏後，妳必須真心喜歡妳的收藏品，這樣妳才會懂得欣賞它們，懂得欣賞後妳才會享受到收藏的樂趣。
THIS PAGE: Part of Mui Kiu’s collection, this A. Lange & Söhne Datograph has a fly-back chronograph
VH：我總是提醒我的客戶在購買鐘錶時必須清楚釐清ABCD四大重點，那便是：拍賣價值 （Auction Value）、品牌（Brand）、狀態（Condition）及需求（Demand）。妳在購買 鐘錶時最注重哪些特質？ MK：視乎腕錶的類型，倘若那是一款具備複雜功能的腕錶，我會考慮其功能是否完備。例 如，那若是一只雙時區的腕錶，我會檢驗製造商如何處理時區的功能，是否同時設置兩個機 芯，這兩個機芯結合的方式，或是在原有的基本機芯上增加另一個零件？錶盤的設計是否能清 晰展示雙時區功能？倘若是購買陶瓷懷錶，我則會考慮畫工是否精細，是由大師級人物還是由 學徒繪製。懷錶本身是否有著特殊的歷史背景，我甚至會檢查錶盤，看看造工是否精細。 LH：設計、尺寸及功能，機芯當然亦十分重要。
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LY：有創意的設計、來自一流的製造商及舒適感。
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VH：我留意到有越來越多的女性選擇男士腕錶，主要是因為男士腕錶能提供更多複雜功能，其典雅且
LY：我相信大尺寸的腕錶會繼續流行下去，但超大碼的尺寸則未必。手鏈形腕錶會更受歡迎。可以自
步，向手袋及鞋子的製造商看齊，每一季都要能推出令顧客想要擁有的新款腕錶。
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LY：目前沒有，但倘若有機會與一流的鐘錶製造商設計一款我自己的腕錶應該會很有趣。
在未來，大尺寸及不同造型的錶盤設計，及以不同顏色的鑽石及寶石裝飾的腕錶會越來越多。
Arpels──全都十分典雅、時尚及耀眼...（笑）。
已經成為地位象徵及時尚飾品。奢華腕錶製造商若想在業績上有更好的作為，必須要與潮流同
陀飛輪萬年曆錶。幾年前因為我偏愛白合金而沒有買下它，錯失了良機，好傻！
LH：我們已經見過各種造型的錶殼設計，圓形、橢圓形、酒桶形、方形、長方形及超大碼的手錶。而
LH：女士腕錶方面我偏愛卡地亞、蕭邦、Harry Winston、Franck Muller以及Van Cleef &
們購買腕錶的主因，除此之外她們也會考量機芯類型。是不是限量版亦是另一考慮要素。腕錶
LH：買得起的話，就算不上是夢想中的鐘錶吧！我後悔沒買下一款Patek Philippe Ref. 5016鉑金三問
較為常見，這是十年前所沒有的現象。在以前這類型的錶專為男士們而設。
但在功能方面卻了無新意。或許各大品牌可以考慮推出專為女士們設計的功能腕錶。
們只配戴石英錶，但現在大家都轉移注意力，對機芯錶殼大感興趣。吸引人的造型依然是女士
這些美麗的懷錶絕對是我最想擁有的鐘錶。
MK：我相信女士腕錶會逐漸走出簡單鑽錶的模式且功能會變得更複雜豐富。女裝的陀飛輪錶於近年來
MK: Depends on the watch, if it is a watch with complications, I will see if the function works well. For example, for a two time zone watch, I will examine how the manufactory handles the function: do they put two movements together, how are the movements combined, or do they add extra components to the base movement? Is the dial design clear for the two time zone function? Or, if it’s an enamel pocket watch, I will look at the painting, if the painting was done by a student or a master. What’s the story behind the piece - I will even look at the dial, if it’s done nicely. LH: The design, size and function… of course, the movement is important. 計的功能。他們通常為女士們推出新款造型的腕錶， LY: Creative design, top watch manufacturer and comfort.
LY：在創意方面仍有改善空間。大部分奢華腕錶製造商推出的設計均十分雷同。從前的女性
MK：我夢想中的鐘錶是一款花形陶瓷懷錶。我過往曾經見過幾次這類型以珍珠裝飾的二問花形懷錶。
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VH: Remember ladies; try it before you buy it. What advice would you give to other women who would like to start collecting watches? MK: My advice is very simple: buy only if you love the watch. Don’t just follow trends. You need to like the watches you buy so you can appreciate them. The more you appreciate them, the more you will enjoy them. And enjoying means you’ll spend more time understanding your collection and from there make it your own. A lot of antique pocket watches or vintage wristwatches are unique and bring something special. We should use our special feminine sense to discover and appreciate them. LH: You should buy watches based on your own personal character. The watches you choose can be practical and trendy, but should always be classic. Also, remember that the same watch looks different on different women. LY: Select a brand with a strong history in watch manufacturing. Choose a design you like very much as you will be wearing it a lot. Make sure you understand the movement. And finally, remember to store properly and to service regularly. For the female collector, what explains the allure of glittering mechanical playthings? Diamonds capture us; we cannot deny the mesmerising friendship we have formed with this carbon formation since time began. Watches, however, arouse a secret side of us – the sense of duality and masculinity that makes us whole. For each of these women, timepieces hold links to a sentimental past and embody a coming-of-age. These horological wonders charm us with their mystery and enduring aesthetic appeal, walking alongside us as reliable, practical companions – as a woman, can I ask for anything more? 由此開始，妳將會花上更多的時間去了解妳的收藏，做 更多的研究及閱讀等等，妳的收藏會變得越來越有妳的
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: Mui Kiu’s interests carry on to include pocket watches like this classic perpetual calendar with moon phase from Patek Philippe Mui Kiu collects models for men, including this dress watch from Philip Dufour This 4936 Patek Philippe Ladies’ Annual Calendar from Mui Kiu’s collection has a rare black Tahitian mother-ofpearl dial
個人風格。一個能展現妳個人風格的收藏系列能傳承給 妳的下一代。不要只是為了投資而收藏鐘錶，否則的話 妳很快就會失去熱情並盲目跟從潮流。有很多古董懷錶 及復古腕錶都很獨特，有著特別的意義。我們要以女性 特有的觸感去發掘及欣賞它們。 LH：妳應該以個人的特質做為購買鐘錶的依據。妳選的 鐘錶應該實用與時尚兼備，同時也應該十分典雅。另外 別忘記，同一只腕錶戴在兩位不同女士身上會散發出不 同的韻味。 LY：選擇在鐘錶製造方面有雄厚歷史的品牌。因為妳會 經常配戴，所以一定要選擇妳很喜歡的設計款式。妳亦 必須了解機芯運作的原理。最後，記得要好好的保存它 並定期保養維修。 對女士收藏家來說，這些耀眼誘人的機械玩意代表些什 麼？鑽石早已擄獲了我們的芳心，女人與鑽石的情誼恆 久不變，這是無可否認的事實。而鐘錶更喚醒女性神祕 的那一面，其二元性及剛毅特質令女性感到圓滿。對 每位女性來說，時計將傷感的過去及未知的未來連結起 來。奇妙的鐘錶以神奇的律動及美感吸引著我們，同時 也是我們最可靠且實用的夥伴，對一個女人來說，有此
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良伴，夫復何求？
sparklestylenew new collections
WINTER WONDERLAND
Feast your eyes on a dazzling array of gems from ten of the world’s finest jewellery brands. From resplendent rubies to tantalising tourmaline, celebrate with pieces fit for a queen
由十個頂級珠寶品牌呈獻的一頓寶石饗宴，將 燦的紅寶石、撩人的電器石 及其他瑰寶化作殿堂級首飾，叫一國之后也為之傾倒 EDITED BY EMILIE YABUT-RAZON
sparklestylenew new collections
BVLGARI ELISIA
Bulgari continues to pay tribute to the timeless beauty and the perfect proportions of the ellipse with its latest series of haute joaillerie. Exceptionally fine, brilliant diamonds replace the coloured stones of the past Elisia collection, becoming the focal points of each creation.
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Bulgari推出最新高級珠寶系列， 以打造完美比例，圓渾的橢圓款 式、歷久常新的美態、優質閃爍 的鑽石為基調，取代以彩石為主 的Elisia系列，成為賣相出眾的新 傑作 。
BOUCHERON GOURMAND
Celebrating opulence and decadence, Boucheron’s Gourmand collection brings a vision of lush, ripe fruit ready to be picked off the vine. A colourful harvest of sapphires, pearls and diamonds in white and yellow gold.
象徵富貴與墮落， Boucheron的「美味」系列將 渾圓飽滿、準備摘下來的水果 帶到眼前。以藍寶石、珍珠和 鑽石配黃金與白金，帶來一頓 色彩豐富的視覺饗宴。
CHANEL
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CAMÉLIA
See various takes on the iconic Chanel flower with the Camélia collection. Sculpté is created from black onyx and white cacholong with diamonds, Fil de Camélia is sculpted from white gold and diamonds, while Ajouré comes in yellow gold. A special piece from this collection is a brooch created with 1,098 diamonds and a 37.5carat Paraiba tourmaline from Brazil. 茶花不僅代表品牌的靈魂，其 千姿百媚，更成為Camélia系 列捕捉的對象，三個主題分別 是︰由黑色縞瑪瑙、白色美蛋 白石與鑽石組合的Sculpté 款 式；白金與鑽石配搭的Fil de Camélia款式以及全黃金的 Ajouré款式，三者都華貴爾 雅。該系列還特製一款運用 1,098顆鑽石與一枚37.5克 拉巴西帕拉依巴碧璽打造的襟 針，丰姿綽約。
ATTRAPE-MOI Citrine, amethyst, fire opal, peridot, pink tourmaline, diamonds and white gold come together in Chaumet’s 18-piece Attrape-moi collection. The precious stones create a spectacle of colour as these form spiders, webs and bees on rings, necklaces, brooches, and even watches.
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18件非同凡響的首飾，由眾 寶石如黃水晶、紫水晶、上等 蛋白石、橄欖石、粉紅碧璽、 鑽石及白金打造出來，無論戒 指、頸鏈、襟針甚至腕錶，都 綴上奇幻矚目的蜘蛛、蜘蛛網 狀或蜜蜂造型，繽紛奪目，是 Chaumet的Attrape-moi系列 的魅力所在。
CHAUMET
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CHOPARD HIGH JEWELLERY
It’s a dreamy deluge of diamonds at Chopard with their latest haute joaillerie collection. Icy stones in emerald, heart, marquise, square, rose, brilliant, Ashoka and rose cuts appear to meld flawlessly in their white gold settings. Chopard的夢幻鑽飾系列， 是各式優質切割方法的薈 萃，無論是綠寶形、心形、 欖尖形、方形、玫瑰式、明 亮式甚至Ashoka圓形角落等 切割方法，都巧奪天工。玫 瑰式鑽石與白金的造型可謂 匹配非常
DIOR MILLY CARNIVORA
From award-winning designer Victoire de Castellane is Dior’s new fine jewellery collection, a spectacular combination of spangled lacquer, diamonds and coloured stones inspired by eight carnivorous flowers in bloom.
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由得獎設計師Victoire de Castellane呈獻，Dior 最新 的高級珠寶系列從八種食人花中 擷取靈感，結合了亮麗的彩漆， 鑽石和彩色寶石。
sparklestylenew collections sparkle
BUTTERFLY As a tribute to nature, Graff has chosen the beautiful butterfly to be the focal piece for its latest collection. Exquisite marquise and pear-shaped cut diamonds, rubies, natural pearls, as well as pink, blue and green sapphires recreate the flutter of the butterfly’s delicate wings. 由花枝招展的蝴蝶帶人回歸自 然，這是Graff最新系列的匠心。 蝴蝶的翅膀由精工切割的欖尖形 及梨形鑽石、紅寶石、天然珍珠 以及粉紅剛玉、藍綠剛玉打造， 瑰麗閃動。
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PIAGET LIMELIGHT
Piaget turns the spotlight on two of the most attractive cities in the world– fashion capitals Paris and New York. Urban yet unmistakably feminine, the new Limelight watch and jewellery collection features architectural inspirations from the cities’ most famous landmarks, including the Eiffel Tower, the Chrysler Building and the Statue of Liberty.
Piaget將設計的目光焦點投射 到兩個世界級時裝之都︰巴 黎與紐約。兼具大都會豪邁 與女性柔情的Limelight最新 腕錶及珠寶系列，把兩個都會 的代表建築物如艾菲爾鐵塔、 克萊斯勒大廈、自由神像等， 幻化成可以佩戴的首飾。
sparklestylenew stylenew collections
QIN QIN Qeelin’s latest release, Qin Qin, mixes China’s rich cultural traditions with the romance and glamour of France. Mandarin for “kiss, kiss,” this fun and playful collection is focused on goldfish, believed by Chinese to be symbols of abundance and harmony. Small magnets inlayed within the golden lips of each fish will cause them to be drawn to each other for a kiss, or repel strongly. Qeelin最新系列Qin Qin 「親親」，是中法文化的精 采演繹，把意頭與浪漫璀璨 配合得天衣無縫。接吻的金 魚首飾，先取中國人「年年 有餘」的吉祥含意，再在魚 唇上施以磁石魔法，把同性 相拒異性相吸，合則來不合 則去的道理輕鬆佻皮地表現 出來。
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TIFFANY TOURMALINE
The release of Tiffany’s annual Blue Book collection is one of the jeweller’s greatest traditions. It highlights one-of-a-kind creations from rare large diamonds to intensecoloured stones. Among the many exquisite pieces is this set in green tourmaline, accented with diamonds in white gold. 珠寶商自家的一大傳統，就 是推出一年一度的Tiffany Blue Book系列，所有作品都 是獨一無二，由珍稀大鑽至 精緻彩石都有，在各種精品 當中，那件綠碧璽配白金鑽 石首飾可謂與眾不同。
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GIFTS OF GLIMMER
Wrap yourself up in the richest embellishments of the season.From luxe chains to playful cuffs, bold colours and striking details abound 奢侈華麗的項鏈、令人玩味的手環，大膽 的色彩以及矚目的細節。穿戴起今季最富 麗的飾品，迎接亮麗冬日吧 EDITED BY EMILLIE-RAZON
GEOMETRIC MAGIC
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Get an industrial yet polished feel with a bold, chunky mix of jagged edges and geometric shapes 以稜角與幾何圖案營造大膽狂野的風格，在粗糙 之餘亦不失亮麗 1. Prisme and bracelet from Roger Vivier 2. Fiction cuff, facet-cut star shaped blue crystal from Daniel Swarovski 3. Clear crystal mordore and ring in gold from Baccarat 4. Fair Play cuffs from Daniel Swarovski. Ingot-cut stone, glimmering Pontiage-set crystals in silver 5. Mirrored pyramid necklace laced with a black silk grosgrain ribbon, from Lanvin
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Complete your ensemble with dazzling drops guaranteed to turn heads 迷人的衣飾加上在耳垂閃閃發光的寶石，肯定惹人 再三回眸 1. Fly By Night marquise earrings in yellow gold and yellow MOP from Stephen Webster 2. Platinum earrings from Mabros with two Ashoka diamonds weighing 6.3 carats 3. Tassel earrings in black onyx and platinum by Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co 4. Dangerous earrings from Boucheron, created with coloured sapphires in white and yellow gold 5. Reina Urraca, rose gold and gemstone earrings from Aré Madrid 6. Butterfly earrings, with rubies and diamonds in 18k gold from Be’vish
DANGLING WONDERS
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BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Mix folk-inspired and ethnic elements with luxury chic for that ultimate peasant-meets-goddess look
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將民族色彩與奢華型格結合，十足天仙與凡人的 浪漫邂逅 1. “Horns” pendants, 18k gold with turquoise, onyx, coral, shell and ancient ivory from Loffredo 2. Bead and tassel necklace by Galliano at The Swank 3. Enamel and gemstone cuffs from MCL at Lane Crwford 4. Seed pearl gold tassel necklace in 18k gold, platinum set diamonds and fancy-coloured sapphires from Tiffany & Co 5. Oval-shaped ruby, cabochon turquoise and briolette diamond necklace from Chopard 6. “Feather” necklace from Swarovski’s Passages of Night collection 7. Jean Schlumberger’s paillonné enamel Indian elephant with diamonds, pink sapphires, tsavorites, turquoise, white a ate and colorless sapphires in 18K gold for Tiffany & Co 8. Dangling earrings in coloured beads and gold from Fendi 9. Colourful turquoise, coral and tiger’s eye anklets from Carat Emporium
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CHAIN GANG Get shackled to the best of this season’s linked accessories 看見今季最流行的鏈條飾品，誰不甘心束手就擒 1. Bracelet in rose gold with brown diamonds from Hermes 2. Matassa necklace in pink gold set with 117 white di monds by de Grisogono 3. White gold and diamond earrings from Montblanc’s Claire de Lune collection 4. Lapis lazuli round pendant in gold chain by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co. 5. Louis Vuitton charm necklace
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These twinkling jewels are key to holiday dressing. Make yourself glow with a sprinkling of diamonds and coloured gems 閃爍的珠寶是假日必備，就以鑽石和寶石讓自己 煥發光芒
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1. “Fortune” pendant necklance from Swarovski’s Passages of Night collection 2. “Melagrana” gemstone ring in pink gold 3. Platinum octagon ring with diamonds, emeralds and sapphires from Tiffany & Co 4. Stephen Webster Fly by Night Vortex earrings in yellow gold with white and coloured diamonds 5. South Sea Keshi pearl ring set in white and black gold with diamonds from Baer 6. San mrocojxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
SET IN STONE
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THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Offrandes D’un Jour Carre 90 silk twill scarf and extra wide enamel cuff from Hermes; silk shawl from John Galliano; cashmere beret with metal and resin cabochons brooch from Chanel; bejeweled floral barrette by Alexandre Zouari; Chanel’s metal brooch with glasstone and strass; coloured gemstone rings from Tiffany & Co OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Shoulder bag from Fendi; bracelet in rose gold with brown diamonds from Hermes; Miu Miu pleated pumps; Vernice taffeta shoes from Prada
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y r t n i e W leganc E
一年 到 名貴 晚都無微 的顏 色來 不至的母 豐富 衣櫃 親，沒有 顯得 更貼 比送她一 心更 暖身 點
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art e h s ’ er h t o r to u m o r l u o t yo tz and c RON l e m on, add gli HAM A s a e es v s to BY RES i t t f s i e g f This uxurious DITED l E with ardrobe her w
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eas d i l rfu coffee e d n wo stylish e s e h th from a zz, to a tions t i w ped nation, ing bu s resolu p i u eq hiber t morn Year’ d a d Get is winter t perfec his New for h er for than to draft mak kling pe spar
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e r a s B cessitie e N
給父親送 一 日早晨； 個時尚咖啡壺 ，等同送 或 他 新一年的 者送一支散發 希望的鋼 一個醒神的冬 大計 筆，鼓勵 他寫下
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: “Etoile de Montblanc Precieuse” pen, with 0.38 carats of diamonds cascading down the clip; extra supple matte alligator notebook from Hermes; L’ Esprit du Temps blue crystal and silver sculpture by Richard Texier for Daum; collection of five tumblers in solid silver by Hermes; “coffee-it” 6-cup stainless steel electric coffee maker with timer from Alessi; Tod’s coloured leather dice cases OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Poker derby shoes and Damier Graphite canvas wallet from Louis Vuitton; Bottega Veneta’s silk ties; gold watch from Hermes; sunglasses from Prada; shoulder bag in supple calf leather from Tod’s
sparklestylepanache THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Prada sunglasses; white gold and diamond cufflinks from Hermes; silk tie from Louis Vuitton; Signature black and white diamonds mobile phone from Vertu; Louis Vuitton Cut Damier belt; Prada Uomo Spazzolato wallets OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Scarf from Just Ovelli; knitted beanie from Louis Vuitton; leather ankle boots from Lanvin; lightweight duffel bag by Tod’s; lace-up sneakers from Gucci; Clipper H1 Grande Date sport watch in steel from Hermes
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e h t e t a and r b m e l r to ce ifts of fo ticated, n a r m with g sophis ake u o y ire in style sual to rely m p s n I ys rom ca will su a d i l ho tion. F ks rowd c i p r func e dappe t in the c thes stand ou him
趁節日 飾開始 當前，為親 份外有 ，合時的打 愛的他改變 型有格 扮，無 一 論隆重 下形象，就 抑或休 先 閒場合 由衣 ，都
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c i h C e v i t s e F zzle , a d zzle harms s? a r e th tmas c erhap h t i w et . Chris r bag, p e f r f he ssories esigne f o r d e he c a c p r e a o e , Sw ittering dband of gl lled hea jewe
濃情 深 她加 一對 的 ︰ 自 愛 餘 親 有 何讓 足夠 一個出 如 前， 配飾就 環或者 當 佳前 ? 一點點 靈的耳 錯不了 心 蜜意 得動人 袋也許 手 閃爍 設計的 名師
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Fendi cuff; Charm El Choc bracelet from Roger Vivier; Grand Froid scarf from Louis Vuitton; Tejus Nappa boot from Prada; multi-stone knot clutch from Bottega Veneta; Hysteria medium tophandle bag by Gucci; Valentino snakeskin boots; pearl Luxe hairband from Alexandre Zouari, Paris
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OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Tiffany’s 18k white gold and sterling silver holiday charms; Gold keychain from Fendi; Miu Miu tri-colour pumps
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THE BOY NEXT DOOR
RETURNS Edwin Siu has transformed himself from your everyday teen heartthrob into a mature, independent artist. nnnnnn The past four years has been a journey of self-discovery, and now he’s back, in fighting form
從迷倒少男少女的鄰家男孩，演變為成熟而獨立的藝人，過去四年對蕭正 楠而言是一個自我尋索的旅程。nnnnnn 捲土重來，他 已 準備好迎 接面 前的一切可能
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TEXT: ASHLEY LIM photography: jason to
Shirt, jackets and jeans by Dolce & Gabbana
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ong Kong audiences still remember when Edwin Siu (蕭正楠) first stood on stage a few years ago. A good-looking guy who could carry a tune, he swiftly gained celebrity status, but just as quickly disappeared from the limelight. Fast forward to 2008 and Edwin has returned – stronger, wiser and ready to face the music. Edwin, who describes himself as shy, recalls when as a young man he saw singer Alan Tam perform in a concert. He was amazed by the singer’s charm and glamour on the stage. But at the time, his own dream of being a singer was still far away. After graduating from university, he participated in a singing concert organised by RTHK, a decision that would change his life forever. He went on to win the competition and, in 2002, he signed a contract with Music Nation, marking the beginning of his career in entertainment. In 2004, Edwin moved to Beijing to develop his talent. Although the decision to work in China was a commercial one, his experiences there have been valuable to his growth as an artist. Compared with the much smaller Hong Kong, China was a huge market, forcing him to stand out from his rivals. During the four years he spent in China, Edwin appeared in various dramas and released his first Mandarin album Story, following the four Cantonese albums he released in Hong Kong. Not only did he overcome the language barrier, he also found he had changed into a more mature and independent man. “The years in Beijing broadened my horizon and allowed me to meet people from around the globe,” he explains. “I started to think about and pave the way for my future.” In 2007, when his contract with Music Nation ended, he decided to return to Hong Kong to further his career. “I am coming back to continue my tasks, which were uncompleted in the past, and to bring the very best to my audience and fans.” He joined TVB in April this year, feeling that the company could offer him opportunities to perform as both an actor and a singer. His first role after joining TVB was that of a smalltime crook in the drama When Easterly Showers on the Sunny West. Edwin welcomes the new challenges the opportunity has brought him, believing that new acting roles will stimulate his thinking and enhance his acting. But as an all-round artist, Edwin finds that he enjoys singing the most. “When you perform on stage, the response is spontaneous. I was touched when the audiences sang along with me during performances.” Perhaps this is why he finds his early success as an emerging singer his sweetest and most unforgettable memory so far. Most artists put much effort into building and maintaining their images, yet Edwin has retained his own style, saying that losing one’s own personality is too much of a sacrifice for an artist. Nattily dressed for a photo shoot with Sparkle in a Dolce & Gabbana mink jacket and a pair of jeans, he oozed flair and confidence. But Edwin confesses he is not a brand fanatic, although he does enjoy flying to Japan and South Korea occasionally to shop, mainly because it provides an escape from his busy life in Hong Kong. And, just like many of us, he also enjoys watching films and playing football in his spare time. An artist’s career is usually dogged by ups and downs, yet Edwin is thankful for the unique experiences and huge opportunities his career has offered so far. While the future is unknown, this gutsy performer is ready to take on anything that lies ahead. k
港觀眾依然記得數年前蕭正楠初出茅廬，樣子討好的他憑著動人的聲線，很快 就在娛樂圈中佔一席位。出道不久，這位受人青睞的新人卻忽爾沉寂下來。 2008年，Edwin重返香港，為觀眾帶來一個更強、更具智慧的蕭正楠。還有他的 音樂。 Edwin笑言自己是個羞怯的男孩，他憶起當年觀看譚詠麟的演唱會，很羡艷 這位歌手在台上的魅力和光采。當時，成為歌手對他而言是個遙不可及的夢想。 大學畢業後，他參加了一個由香港電台舉辦的歌唱比賽，這個決定卻改變了他的 一生。Edwin 在歌唱比賽中順利勝出，接著在2002年簽約大國文化，正式開展其 藝人生涯。 2004年，Edwin轉移內地發展其演藝事業。雖然北上工作是出於商業考慮， 這幾年的經驗對他作為藝人而言卻大有裨益。與香港的市場相比，內地市場規模 更大，迫使Edwin加倍努力去展現自己，以吸引觀眾的注意。 在四年間，Edwin 在內地多個電視劇中演出，同時亦繼他在香港推出的四張廣東大碟之後，推出首 張國語大碟《故事》。他不獨克服了語言障礙，亦比從前變得更成熟獨立。他解釋道：「在北京的幾 年擴闊了我的視野，讓我認識到來自世界各地的朋友。我亦開始為自己的未來籌算，想想以後的路該 怎麼走。」在2007年，他與大國文化的合約完結，便決定重返香港，繼續發展其事業。「回來是為了 完成過去未完的娛樂工作，為觀眾和歌迷呈獻我最好的一面。」他語帶堅定地說。 今年四月，Edwin加入無線電視，認為公司能為他提供更多唱歌和拍劇的機會。加入電視台後，他 的第一項任務便是在電視劇《東山飄雨西關晴》中扮演一個小混混的角色。對於公司為他帶來的新挑 戰，Edwin一概照單全收，認為這些角色有助刺激思考，令他的演技更上一層。作為一個多元發展的藝 員，Edwin對唱歌卻始終情有獨鍾。他說：「當你在台上表演時，台下的反應是即時的。在演出時觀眾 與我合唱，那個時刻最教我感動。」也許正因如此，Edwin認為他初出道的成績最令他回味。 不少藝人花盡苦心去建立和保持形象，Edwin卻勇於做回自己。他認為對一個藝人而言，放棄一己 個性這個犧牲實在太大。穿上Dolce & Gabbana的貂皮外套和牛仔褲，Edwin展露出其充滿自信和決心 的一面。他坦言自己並非追逐名牌之人，卻很嚮往飛到日本和韓國去添置衣物，因為這能讓他暫時遠 離香港的繁忙生活。而且就像我們一樣，他也享受在空餘時間看戲和踢足球。 藝人的事業總不乏起起跌跌，Edwin卻珍惜這個行業為他帶來的獨特體驗和無盡機會。雖然前路仍 然充滿未知數，他卻已準備好迎接面前的一切挑戰。k
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nnnnnn1. MY BVLGARI B.ZERO 1 WHITE GOLD RING “I used to be reluctant to wear accessories but this ring is simply gorgeous” nnnnnn 2. MY GUY LAROCHE DRAKKAR NOIR EAU DE TOILETTE SPRAY “My ex-girlfriend liked the masculine scent of this perfume and gave it to me as a gift” nnnnnn 3. MY SONY PLAYSTATION®PORTABLE “I play video games to kill time” nnnnnn 4. MY ARMANI EXCHANGE SUNGLASSES “I need it when attending different events. Also a must-have for travel” nnnnnn 5. MY NEW ERA BASEBALL CAP “I put this on when I’m too lazy to do my hair. It saves me from looking like a fool” nnnnnn 6. MY PRADA COSMETIC BAG “Hair spray, wax, contact lens, face powder. Artists must always be prepared. It gives me a sense of security” nnnnnn 7. MY PANASONIC LUMIX DIGITAL CAMERA “It records special and memorable moments in my life”nnnnnn 8. MY SONY WALKMAN NWZ-S610 “I listen to all kinds of music, not to mention my own songs” nnnnnn 9. MY SUPER COOL LIP CREAM “For dry lips during autumn and winter” nnnnnn 10. MY NOKIA N81 MOBILE PHONE “I don’t have a fixed phone line at home so this is the only way to make and receive calls”
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沒有便無法生活下去的十件物品…… nnnnnn 1. 我的BVLGARI B.ZERO 1 白金戒指「我從來不喜歡配戴飾物，但這隻戒指 真的很吸引我」nnnnnn 2. 我的GUY LAROCHE DRAKKAR NOIR香水「我的舊女友喜 歡這支香水強烈的味道，把它送了給我」nnnnnn 3. 我的SONY PSP「我以打電腦遊戲 來打發時間」nnnnnn 4. 我的ARMANI EXCHANGE 太陽眼鏡 「作為藝人，我會在出 席不同場合時戴上 太陽眼鏡。它也是旅行時的必備之物」nnnnnn 5. 我的NEW ERA帽 「懶於整理頭髮時，我便會乾脆戴上它。這樣看起來才不會太蠢」nnnnnn 6. 我的 PRADA 化粧袋「髮蠟、定型噴霧、隱形眼鏡，粉底… 藝人得時時準備——它能帶給我安 全感」。nnnnnn 7. 我的PANASONIC LUMIX 數碼相機「它記錄了我生活中的特別與 難忘時刻」nnnnnn 8. 我的SONY NWZ-S610 MP3機「我喜歡聽不同類型的音樂，當 然還包括了我的歌曲」nnnnnn 9.我的SUPER COOL 潤唇膏「面對秋冬的乾燥天氣，我 需要它來滋潤嘴唇」nnnnnn 10. 我的NOKIA N81 手提電話「我家裡沒有固網電話， 這是聯絡我的唯一方法」
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sparklestylestores
Where to get the Sparkle 3D-GOLD JEWELLERY GF 198 Nathan Road, Jordan, Kowloon Tel: 2766 3693 nnnnnn A. LANGE & SÖHNE Available at Carlson Watch and King Fook Jewellery nnnnnn ALEXANDRE ZOUARI PARIS Shop 1056-57 IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 3152 2213 nnnnnn ALTFIELD GALLERY 248-9 Prince’s Bldg., Central Tel: 2537 6370 nnnnnn Arté Madrid Shop 103, 1/F Lee Gardens Two, 28 Yun Ping Road, Causeway Bay nnnnnn AUTORE SOUTH SEA PEARLS Available at Lane Crawford nnnnnn BACCARAT Shop 121 Prince’s Bldg., Central Tel: 25372303 nnnnnnBAER JEWELS Suite 3A, Galuxe Bldg 8-10 On Lan St., Central Tel: 2877 0099 nnnnnnBe’vish Jewellery Room 1501, Melbourne Plaza, 33 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 3527 3888 nnnnnn BOTTEGA VENETA Shop 212, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2973 0882 nnnnnn BREGUET Available at Carlson Watch, King Fook Jewellery and Emperor Watch & Jewellery nnnnnn Bulgari Shop 2041, Level 2, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2234 7668 nnnnnn CARAT EMPORIUM 23 D’ Aguilar St., Central Tel: 2868 4688 nnnnnn CARLSON WATCH GF Aon China Bldg., 29 Queen’s Road, Central nnnnnn Cartier Shop L1, Lobby, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2368 8036 nnnnnn Chaumet St. George’s Bldg., 2 Ice House St., Central Tel: 2536 9338 nnnnnn Chanel G18-20, M3-6, Prince’s Bldg., 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2810 0978 nnnnnn CHRISTIE’S 22F Alexandra House, 18 Chater Road Central Tel: 2978 9966 nnnnnn Christian Dior Shop G42-45, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2524 8277 nnnnnn DAUM The Galleria G02, 9 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2111 2124 nnnnnn De Beers G1-2, G/F, The Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2118 2321 nnnnnn DE GRISOGONO Shop 2062-2063 Podium Level 2, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2522 8368 nnnnnn dIESEL ACCESSORIES Shop A03 LCX Level 1, Fashion Walk, 9 Kingston St., Causeway Bay Tel: 2437 1395 nnnnnn dior joaillerie Shop ME8B, Mezzanine, The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2723 5260 nnnnnn Dolce & Gabbana Shop 241, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway Road, Admiralty Tel: 2801 6827 nnnnnn Dolce & Gabbana ACCESSORIES Expressions Shop No. 1098, 2nd level, Elements, 1 Austin Road, West Kowloon Tel: 2437 1395 nnnnnn EMPHASIS JEWELLERY Shop B14-16 1F Queensway Plaza, Admiralty nnnnnn Emporio Armani Shop 2522 Level 2, Gateway Arcade, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2437 1295 nnnnnn Fendi Shop 14A-16 & 102, The Landmark ,15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2524 1339 nnnnnn FOSSIL (time + style) Shop A03, LCX - Level 1, Fashion Walk, 9 Kingston St., Causeway Bay Tel: 2437 1295 nnnnnn Garrard Lane Crawford, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2118 3368 nnnnnn GIVENCHY Shop 142 Level 1 Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2735 2361 nnnnnnGraff DIAMONDS The Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2735 7666 nnnnnn Gucci Zone GW G124-5, Harbour City, Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2199 7728 nnnnnn HARRY WINSTON Shop E8 GF, The Peninsula Hotel, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2301 2131 nnnnnn HERMES The Lee Gardens Shop 02-04, 33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay Tel: 2907 2974 nnnnnn JUICY COUTURE Shop 3077-3078 IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 3586 2017 nnnnnn King Fook Shop 21 GF Central Bldg., 1-3 Pedder St., Central Tel: 2526 6733 nnnnnn LANVIN Shop G42 The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2845 9456 nnnnnn Lane Crawford Shop 126, Pacific Place, Admiralty Tel: 2118 3652 nnnnnn LOFFREDO Shop 225 Prince’s Bldg., Central Tel: 2522 2507 nnnnnn LONGINES Shop 321 Level 3, Ocean Centre, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 3188 5070 nnnnnn Louis Vuitton Shop 9A, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2523 2915 nnnnnn MABROS GF 10 Pottinger St., Central Tel: 2810 1700 nnnnnn MANTRA LUXURY 6D Winner Bldg., 27-39 D’Aguilar St., Central Tel: 25268648 nnnnnn MARC BY MARC JACOBS (time + style) Shop 81 LCX Level 3, Ocean Terminal, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Tel: 2437 1395 nnnnnn MINE TO MINE PRIVATE COLLECTION BY RONI N. Tel: 2116 5882 Available at Prince Jewellery & Watch nnnnnn MIU MIU Shop G07 Lee Gardens Two, 289 Yun Ping Road, Causeway Bay Tel: 2882 7143 nnnnnn Montblanc Shop 2077 -78, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2234 7225 nnnnnn OFFICINE PANERAI Shop G-30 Prince’s Bldg., 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2522 9373 nnnnnn PATEK PHILIPPE Available at King Fook Jewellery nnnnnn Piaget Shop 8, G/F, Prince’s Bldg., 10 Chater Road, Central Tel: 2525 5585 nnnnnn Prada Shop 2057, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2234 7211 nnnnnn PRINCE JEWELLERY & WATCH Shop 3 G/F, Bo Yip Bldg, 10 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui nnnnnn Qeelin Shop 2059, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2389 8863 nnnnnn ROGER VIVIER G19 -20, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 28108690 nnnnnn Salvatore Ferragamo Shop 2038, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2234 7388 nnnnnn SHANGHAI TANG Pedder Bldg, 12 Pedder St., Central Tel: 2525 7333 nnnnnn Stephen Webster Contact: Candice Yu, Time Concept Holding Tel: 2723 3033 nnnnnn SOTHEBY’S DIAMONDS Tel: 2822 8113 nnnnnn SWAROVSKI Shop 1051, IFC Mall, 8 Finance St., Central Tel: 2234 7126 nnnnnnTHE SWANK Shop 103-105, The Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2810 0784 nnnnnnTECHNOMARINE Available at Prince Jewellery & Watch Tel: 2895 2277 nnnnnn Tiffany & Co. G/F, The Landmark, 12 Des Voeux Road, Central Tel: 2845 9853 nnnnnn Tiret New York Level One, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, Admiralty Tel: 2118 3668 nnnnnn TOD’S Shop 367 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway Road, Admiralty Tel: 2810 9080 nnnnnn TOYWATCH LCX Fashion Walk, 9 Kingston St. Causeway Bay Tel: 2895 5613 nnnnnn VALENTINO Thop G29-34 The Landmark, 156 Queen’s Road, Central Tel: 2523 8035 nnnnnn Van Cleef & Arpels One Pacific Place, Admiralty Tel: 2918 1661 nnnnnn Versace Shop G19-20, The Landmark, 12 Des Voeux Road, Central nnnnnn VERTU Shop 208A Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2118 2036 nnnnnn YSL Zone GW G116, Harbour City, Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2377 2608 nnnnnn