The Panetone of Milán

The Panetone of Milán

Ihave heard so many stories about panettone that at first I felt uncomfortable starting the story about this sweet Natalicio. But then I gathered a lot of patience and started

When the Christmas holidays approach, panettone begins to make an appearance in pastry shops, supermarkets and on the tables of all Italians. In Mexico, when I arrived 37 years ago, I remember that in Mexico City in the Zona Rosa there was a Dely that imported Italian products with great difficulty and at Christmas it offered Panettone to its customers, who were mostly Italians and Italian Swiss. In Cancun, my beloved city that in those years was still a panettone town, they didn’t even talk about it. However, thanks to the Fraschetti family, owners of the only Italian Dely at that time, panettone also landed in Cancun. A very particular anecdote is having imported 8kg panettoni for Christmas. as a tribute to its hotel and restaurant clients. Well done Claudio. Furthermore, it is now history that for a few years, even supermarkets have realized the popularity of Panettone, giving it the position it deserves.

To tell the truth, there are several legends circulating, so I thought I would tell you the most plausible one to try to clarify the matter.

What I want to talk to you about, in addition to the most popular, refers to the court of Ludovico Maria Sforza, better known as Ludovico il Moro. He was lord of Milan at the end of the 15th century, precisely in 1495, when on Christmas Eve he gathered his court for rich and lavish celebrations. The kitchens cooked at a dizzying pace until something went wrong: dessert. It all happened because of Toni, an assistant in charge of supervising the sweet donuts that were cooking in the oven.

Legend has it that Toni, exhausted from work, fell asleep causing the cake to burn and to repair the damage he hastily spoiled the rest of the ingredients: eggs, butter, candied fruit and raisins added to the leftover donut dough.

The head chef was skeptical, but had to change his mind as soon as the guests tried this hastily invented dessert.

The story began to circulate around the city, to the point that the dessert took the name “Toni’s Bread” which later became “panettone.”

All versions of the origins of panettone refer to people who lived in Milan almost during the Renaissance, so at least the date of birth seems to be quite shared.

The name panettone, in this case, derives from “large bread” due to the rounded shape and the derivation of the dough from that of bread.

The legend of panettone, however, includes more twists. In fact, Pietro Verri, a historian from the late 18th century, says that the Panettone we know today was born due to a very particular celebration.

This ritual was celebrated by Galeazzo María Sforza, who used to break large and tasty loaves in front of the fireplace, in addition to consuming fatty meats and rich garnishes. In fact, it seems that the ovens were only allowed to cook the precious and expensive wheat bread on Christmas night. As a symbol of equality and charity, therefore, rich and poor should have consumed the same bread that was called Pan de Sciori or Pan de Ton and whose dough included sugar, butter and zibibbo.

From Toni’s Bread to Panaton: the tradition of San Biagio

The official name, however, dates back to the beginning of the 17th century, when the motto “Panaton” appeared in the first Milanese dictionary, which meant “large Christmas bread”.

Tradition has it that Panaton was also eaten on the occasion of the San Biagio festivities, on February 3. This tradition is still alive today, so families must preserve the panettone until that day, to eat the last portion of the year.

The tradition derives from the legend according to which Saint Biagio, a doctor and bishop of the 12th century, saved a child who was drowning after having ingested a fish bone by making him eat a piece of soft bread. Panettone, as tradition dictates, is accompanied by sweet variations with chocolate, red fruits and even coffee. But I like it with the Asti Spumante.

The popularity of panettone has made it for all intents and purposes the “king” of Christmas.

You want to make Panettone, here is the recipe: www.petitchef.es

Merry Christmas my dear readers and get ready for the month of April with the “Easter Colomba”.