DDEAF Fall 2015

DETROIT DESIGN ENTERTAINMENT ART & FASHION

THREE DOLLARS

D DEAF

FALL 2015 + ISSUE 1

INTRODUCTION 2

Detroit is the ideal candidate for Ddeaf magazine (Detroit design entertainment art & fashion) its complex, multi-faceted communities and ever-evolving nature provides a rich source of inspiration and subject matter for content. Its sartorial subject matter is so explicitly ideal, it is astounding that it has never before been subjected to this specific treatment. There are many ways in which this medium could have been incorporated into an tabloid, the most obvious being to compile an exhaustive compendium of chronological data and photography. Instead, Deaf magazines mission is to offer a selective, informative, and entertaining analysis of many worlds, in all its complexity.

In particular, our curiosity is piqued by the achievements of design, art, entertainment, fashion, specific structures and trade nomenclature that makes these industries tick and crucially the creative insiders that help to drive it forward.

The inaugural issue, for Fall 2015 presents a fascinating assortment of objects, personalities, details and informative anecdotes. In true tabloid style, lush pictures and simple prose are employed to bring order and clarity, conveying diverse information spanning the key elements of this season’s theatre, art, fashion, design,entertainment and architecture.

Gabellini Sheppard has designed retail spots and homes for some of fashions top taste makers but little is known about the house on Bates in Birmingham. We talk about its previous owner with the architect himself revealing the story behind the walls and the firms new projects.

10 – Matte Black / DESIGN – McLenon+DuCharme

CONTENTS

6 – Gabellini Sheppard / ARCHITECTURE – Jeff Newsom

We celebrate the exclusion of color with items that are minimal, functional and most importantly chic as hell. Forget white wash and over-saturated hues, matte black is what makes us weep.

12 – The Stages Come / THEATRE – Jeff Davison It’s not all about the big shows and the broadway blaze. Local theater has found a new city to make a name in and its Detroit. The eccentric world of cabaret is alive and well followed by some dance performances that make your feet hurt and heart soft.

14 – Nick Cave / ART – Kim Fey Ddeaf talks to Nick Cave about his life, art and sneakers while taking a peak at his show at Cranbrook Art Museum and running around Detroit to catch the numerous performance pieces he has collaborated on throughout the last year with some unexpected and exciting dance groups.

18 – Aaron Cozadd / NIBBLES & BITS – Jeff Newsom Let’s nibble with mega chef Aaron Cozadd at the Clarkston Union then stop at the Eastern Market for a nosh while talking about all the bits going on in his world and more of his favorite things.

20 – Driven Insane / FASHION – Boswell Fall fashion is an explosion of shape, color and textures pictured here at one of last remaining drive in theaters The Ford Wyoming. Hip Hop Edie Beal meets upper east side chic is how we see this season with all its vibrant movement and street style passion.

26 – Lining Around / ILLUSTRATION – Robert Escalera Mens directionally designed and hotly anticipated fall fashions sketched from a Parisian point of view with lush action and deep rich strokes.

30 – Classical Revival / ACCESSORIES – Soonie Itawi / Jeff Newsom Fall’s most luxurious accessories for men & women are sleek & shiny with a focus on tactile dimension, uber luxe details while making it on everyones got to have lists for the season.

36 – Jack White / ENTERTAINMENT – Andi Rehm He’s got a new record store opening on black Friday with Shinola and some things brewing up at Three Man Records. Ddeaf dives into what is happening at TMR and why it’s so important to Detroit’s Midtown.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Robert Escalera Robert is a creative, based in Paris, France.He studied fashion design at Parson’s School of Design in his birthplace, New York City.After a design career with the likes of J.Crew and GAP, as well as his own collection and retail shop in NYC”S meatpacking district, he continued his life education by diving head first into other industries he felt akin to, visual merchandising and display, art direction, retail design, branding and business development to name a few. After his relocation to Paris in 2012, he has focused his energy’s on illustration and various art projects. P.26

Jeff Davison Jeff is co-owner of Antonino Salon and Spa in Birmingham, Michigan where he manages customer service and social media. He is very active in metro Detroit’s community theatre scene where he has directed and appeared in many productions. Along with writing a book about his humorous escapades, he writes two blogs, Living Life Through Laughter, (www.writerjeffery.com) and Hairsay, (www.antoninosalon.com/blog/). P.12

Soonie Itawi Soonie is a wardrobe stylist, specializing in print, film, theater, runway, and model portfolio development. After growing up in the theater, he followed his heart and pursued a career in fashion. He studied Fashion Design in New York City and received his degree in Fashion Merchandising and Marketing from The Illinois Institute of Arts-Chicago. Back in his hometown, Soonie is excited to be apart of Detroit’s flourishing fashion scene! P.20

Andi Rehm Andi is a Detroit based pop culture aficionado and gal about town. By day she is strategically styling the fashionable women of Detroit and beyond at Birmingham’s acclaimed Boutique Tender. Her passion and exuberance for all things Detroit lends a fresh perspective while exploring all the city has to offer. Whether it be music, dancing, or Detroit’s diverse cuisine, the city is her playground. P.36

Boswell Boswell was born in Detroit and started his creative career as a painter at a very young age. He attended Center For Creative Studies as a painting major which led to making hats and working with publications such as Harpers Bazaar, Vogue and WWD. His hobby and passion for taking pictures turned into a prominent career choice after developing relationships with top fashion brands and major publications and his pictures of interiors, fashion editorials, portraits and still life projects can be scene throughout the Americas & Europe. www.boswellstudio.com P.20

Matt LaVere Matt is a Grand Valley State graduate with a degree in photography. His work has been featured in HOUR Detroit and Alternative Press Magazine. Some of his clients include Bjond, Inc. and Specialized Bicycles. When he’s not behind a camera join him for an old fashioned or a polaroid portrait of yourself to showcase at www.mattlavere.com P.30

McLenon+DuCharme Pam McLenon has been merchandising, editing and rearranging in her mind just about everything she can think of.

She studied design at Wayne State University and has been working in visual merchandising and display her entire career executing her ideas in her store Scout.

Gregory Ducharme works as an assistant buyer and visual merchandiser at Scout. He is designer and owner of the jewelry line ERROL, creating fiber and metal accessories. Gregory is a lifelong collector and dealer of rare vintage menswear and decor. P.10

Kim Fey Kim Fey is a painter, curator, entrepreneur with film credits and an IMDb page. A passion for art that endeavors to creative excellence and fuels collaborative support of the rich Detroit art community that is the cultural backbone of our city’s renaissance. P.14

Jeff Newsom

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Jeff has worked in the fashion and design business for over 20 years. His career as a stylist and director started in NYC and has lead him around the world working for some of fashions top photographers such as Peter Lindbergh, Arthur Elgort, Ellen Von Unwerth, Mary Ellen Mark and countless others. He has designed sets, clothing, home goods and interiors for clients like Donna Karan, The Gap, Tommy Hilfiger and Levi’s.While his editorial and advertising clients vary from Vogue magazine to Audi America. He is currently working as a fashion stylist while finishing up on a book titled “Sometimes, Nearly, Almost” which chronicles his many years in the fashion industry with extreme humor and wit. P.6

CREDITS: Cover: Photo /Boswell MUA /Meliissa Keryn Hair/Jen P- 6 salon Fashion / Tomas Maier jacket Simone Rocha Skirt Tender Alexis Bittar necklace Neiman Marcus MaxMara Handbag Contents: 6/ Photo courtesy of Conde Nast 14/ Photo Matt LaVere 18/ Photo Jacob Lewkow 36/ Photo Mary Ellen Mattews Contributors: Photos Matt LaVere Architecture: 6/ Photo renderings courtesy of Gabellini Sheppard 8/ Photos courtesy of Conde Nast 9/ Photos Paul Warchol Art: 16/Soundsuit, 2015 Photo by James Prinz Photography. Courtesy of the artist and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York. 17/1-Nick Cave at Cranbrook Photo by PD Rearick 2-Nick Cave at Central Station Photo by PD Rearick.

3-Nick Cave at the Assembly Plant Photo by PD Rearick Nibbles&Bits: 18/ Photos Jacob Lewkow Fashion: 20/ Corvair truck - Detroit GT Cars- Brothers Custom Automotive All models -RGA Model Management Entertainment: 36/ Photo Mary Ellen Matthews 5

ARCHITECTURE

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GABELLINI SHEPPARD

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Gabellini Sheppard Associates is a multi-disciplinary architectural and interior design firm based in New York City. The firm has gained international acclaim for its signature design aesthetic in which space and light are used as sculptural materials. This sensibility evolves from the intent to design pure, functional spaces that operate as graphic backdrops to what is contained within them. The firm has approached each of its projects as an individual research enterprise, investigating each site’s historical context, programmatic possibilities, and potential to stimulate the development of a fresh spatial vocabulary.

They design on multiple scales ranging from urban and commercial masterplans to private and multi-family residences, fashion boutiques and retail centers, hotels and restaurants as well as contemporary art galleries. With its inaugural commission of the Jil Sander flagship store in Paris, the firm set a new standard in retail design by creating a richly subtle stage for the interaction of volume, light, and materials. The firm has subsequently designed major retail environments such as the Bergdorf Goodman Contemporary Floor and Nicole Farhi boutique and restaurant in Manhattan, the 100,000sf retail center for Giorgio Armani in Milan, numerous boutiques and showrooms for Salvatore Ferragamo, and 90 stores and showrooms for Jil Sander worldwide.

What is your design philosophy at GS? Through the work of our studio, Gabellini Sheppard Associates explores themes of spatial perception, sensory environments, and the relationship of history and modernity in contemporary design. Two foundational elements for all of our work are space and light. Light is a material substance with tangible qualities. It is the substance that runs like a river through our studio.

Without setting aside the more intellectual aspects of architecture, our studio is in favor of the phenomenological and the emotional. Architecture is less about representing a concept or a theory and more about creating a heightened sense of place that speaks directly through perception and sensory experience.

Gabellini Sheppard restores and rejuvenates a space (whether its form, function, or both) by reviving its presence within memory while simultaneously overlaying contemporary programming. One way of highlighting the present reality of an object or site is also to imagine possibilities for the future, sometimes by looking back but with an eye for the unwavering modernity of design and its process as a catalyst of change.

Can you tell us about the Michigan Residence ?

In 1993, Gabellini Sheppard Associates was commissioned to design a new home for Linda Dresner on a 1.5 acre site in an exclusive 1950’s era suburb in Birmingham, MI. The client, who owns two fashion boutiques in Manhattan and Birmingham, MI designed by Michael Gabellini, are characterized by their minimal but luxurious quality. Ms. Dresner and Michael Gabellini share the sentiment that a fashion boutique or a home environment should be a quiet, graphic backdrop or stage, reflecting a sensory approach to placemaking, revealing the activity within. A primary goal of the project was to create an environment to enhance the daily activities of life, as well as conceive a spatial frame for the display of the exquisite art and furniture collection.

In contrast to the surrounding residences, the 6,000-square-foot, two level home is wrapped in a simple envelope of light grey concrete. The main entrance, while not visible from the street, is discreetly located behind the main living room volume similar in concept to the entrance of a Japanese ryokan. Carefully placed windows precisely frame views to the outside while maintaining large expanses of uninterrupted wall area for the placement of art. Natural light floods into the double-height dining room through glass terrace doors, effectively spreading lightness throughout the home. The ground level public spaces, including the dining and living areas and kitchen, are interconnected volumes that promote a casual spiraling movement around a double-height volume enclosing a fireplace and the centrally located stair. The private bedroom areas of the second level are conceived as a floating platform over the public areas of the home below. Natural materials including honed bluestone, white sivec marble, mahogany flooring and stainless steel kitchen cabinetry complement the architectural rigor of the interior environment.

How was your experience working with Linda Dresner ?

Linda Dresner has been a dream client. I have worked with her on no fewer than five projects over many years, including residential and fashion design. She is smart and engaging, understands what she wants and how she wants to live. She is one of the most intuitive clients I have had, not only able to understand the proportion and arrangement of space but also able to comprehend the poetics and sculptural qualities of space.

She is uncompromising and unconventional when discussing the subtleties of program, or the qualities of an architectural detail. She has a natural curiosity and intelligence to shake up pre-conceived notions of living, as well as an ability to arrive at a solution to a problem sometimes before her designers. She approaches design with a curator’s eye, in much the same way she has engaged, encouraged and represented some of the most innovative fashion designers of our times.

She is compassionate and high spirited. She engages life with a passionate personality and welcomes all those around her into her warm and captivating embrace.

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What has been going on recently in your practice?

We have been very fortunate to be working on some very exciting hospitality and residential projects in New York City. The Knickerbocker Hotel, a landmarked building in the city, recently opened. A hotel back in the early 1900’s, Gabellini Sheppard’s complete renovation burnishes the past while moving the property forward for the next generation of guests. Part of this process included converting the original 556-key hotel to 330-keys. Additionally, each guest room is unique, with custom designed millwork, including vanities, ‘amoire’ closets, and mini bars for each individual room type. Each room elevates the functional needs of the stay: including sleeping, bathing, dressing, working, and lounging. The hotel interiors were designed to act as a cocoon from the sights and sounds of Times Square, while softly reverberating the glow of the illuminated screens within the public spaces, bringing the city’s energy indoors. The hotel offers a ground level café, a fourth floor restaurant, and a rooftop bar and lounge developed for Charlie Palmer. All settings provide for an elegant watering hole for social networking or relaxing.

We also recently completed work at Rockefeller Plaza, including the reinvigoration of the famous Rainbow Room and Bar SixtyFive, and NBC Universal’s lobby and mezzanine areas. We view the Rainbow Room as not just a room, but an embedded memory with particular cultural and historical significance. The renovation respected the landmark status of the space, addressing contemporary needs while celebrating the past era of the legendary space. Our firm looks at historic preservation not only as an exercise in cultural memory but also as a form of environmental conservation, allowing us to qualitatively extend the life of buildings and public places for the next generation. Indeed, the Rainbow Room earned LEED Silver certification, further supporting the firm’s effort to preserve the past while conserving for the future.

With its magnificent panorama from the top of this iconic building, the 65th floor was conceived as the primary public amenity reminiscent of a 1930’s luxury liner docked at port. The grand Rainbow Room arrayed at the ‘prow’ of the ship, with Bar SixtyFive commanding the western ‘stern’, composing expansive views of the Hudson and setting sun, as well as Central Park and the Empire State Building.

The NBC lobby and mezzanine areas also dealt with landmark status. The firm embraced the history of the space while moving the design forward in time. With large visiting audiences, the renovation provides visitors with an enhanced experience at NBC’s New York headquarters. Show guests flow through the central lobby, illuminated by a customized concentric bronze chandelier with continuous cove lighting. The revived 16 foot wide staircase now serves as circulation to the Mezzanine Rotunda and newly established Peacock Lounge. LED screens align the curved walls, creating an intriguing and entertaining waiting experience where studio visitors can engage with dynamic graphics and enjoy the historical space in the round.

What residential projects are you working on?

We have several exciting residential projects in progress right now, including an expansive upper east side apartment, and we just completed work on a loft space in SoHo. We are working with Alvaro Siza on a collaboration for a new condominium building on 56th Street. We are also proud of another special residential project that we are working on: 152 Elizabeth Street, on which we are collaborating with master architect Tadao Ando. For us, the project is a meditation on the notion of interior space as an extension of the natural world. We are embracing our collaboration and the complementary process between our practice and Tadao Ando. We were inspired by the idea of elemental living, and how we could embrace environmental elements such as light, air, sound, and water, through thoughtful design. Light is used as an activating element throughout the spaces. It is thought about as a material substance with tangible qualities. We’ve blended both natural light and ambient light to create a heightened contrast between light and shadow, to frame and accentuate spaces. Spatial illumination features such elements as light veils, glowing translucent volumes, perimeter ambient lines of light and gradated light planes, which are employed to create a harmonic sense of place.

For sound, we conceived interior space as a cocoon for living filled with an ambient, tactile buoyancy. Interior acoustical material between rooms and floors enhances the sense of privacy while the glass curtain wall of windows uses enhanced glazing to seal out extraneous noise, to create a level of comfort and calm within. From the illuminated fog sculpture at the entry vestibule to the cascading waterwalls and tranquil pools of the main terraces, water is introduced as an integral element throughout. Bathrooms are conceived as light and water chambers which celebrate the soothing act of bathing. The element of air is also very carefully considered. Filtered air will be controlled throughout all living areas creating a sense of comfort to balance the prevailing external temperatures and varying seasonal conditions. These residences have been individually tailored to create the most optimal proportioning and layout of space. Every design choice is complementary and fluid, allowing us to enhance comfort by elevating the daily activities, while at the same time heightening functional performance of life with the aesthetics of living.

What is your dream project?

A dream project for us would be to design a contemporary art museum. The design philosophy of our studio is well suited to meet the physical and conceptual challenges posed by the 21st century art museum. What I find interesting about the modern museum is that it is no longer a mausoleum to the precious artifact or a static monument to the past. The museum of the future must be a vital community space where visitors have meaningful interactions with the institution’s diverse collections and programming. It must reach out, embrace, and enhance its urban environment as well it must function as a sieve, a porous structure that encourages a continuous flow of information of visitors seeking enlightenment, entertainment and social interaction. The new museum can simultaneously become an open-ended, mutable entity by providing diverse audiences access to information both inside and beyond the building’s physical parameters.

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DESIGN CELEBRATING THE EXCLUSION OF COLOR

PAINT IT (matte) BLACK McLenon+DuCharme

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ith minimalism and over-saturated hues at the forefront of modern design, our current obsessions, rather, all pay homage to the opposite end of the spectrum. Enough with the white wash, we’re painting it (matte) black. Black creates a striking visual interest by increasing the depth of contrast in any home or wardrobe and when glossy blacks seem over-polished and intimidating, matte black takes reign with a subtly cool sophistication.

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FEATURES: BLACK BAT LICORICE This isn’t your grandmother’s Good & Plenty. Polish your pearls with the taste of Italian Amarelli licorice. Marvis Amarelli Licorice Toothpase – ZMC Pharmacy, 1041 S. Main Street, Royal Oak

DARK OUD Pierre Montale, perfumer for Saudi Arabian nobility creates highly concentrated unisex fragrances. Composed of resins, ouds and incense, Montale is a subtle union of east meets west. Montale Dark – SCOUT, 508 S. Washington, Royal Oak

HEAVY METAL Sculptural metal knobs & pulls welcome guests at some of the nations best dressed hotels such as the Parker and Viceroy. It’s time to go big and go home, decorate your doors and cabinets with larger-than-life hardware. Crawford Cabinet – Jonathanadler.com

TAKE A SEAT The Archive Sofa from Gus Modern artfully blends modern and vintage styling with nods to midcentury design. With an exposed wood frame that is both industrial and warm, you’ll have to sit down for this one. Gus Modern Archive Sofa – HUGH, 2420 Cass, Suite 107, Detroit

MIDNIGHT GARDENER Succulents take a back seat!

We’ve developed a preference for plants shrouded in mystery with their deep hues. Fill your landscaping with Black Mondo Grass, Prince Coleus, and Black Heart Sweet Potato Vine. Farmer John’s Greenhouse, 26950 Haggerty, Farmington Hills

ASHES TO ASHES – The Baxter ASH series is inspired by campfires in the high mountains and available in three distinct scents. Smoke Ash, our pick of the collection, features notes of tea, leather, smoke, and cedar wood. Baxter of California Smoke Ash Candle – ZMC Pharmacy, 1041 S. Main Street, Royal Oak

TAKE NOTE The pencil of choice for writers, artists, and musicians since the 1930s, the Blackwing was reintroduced in 2010 after being discontinued in the 90s. Almost 100 years later and many still have a penchant for this classic hexagonal pencil dripping with brass details. Palomino Blackwing Pencil – NORA, 4240 Cass Avenue #109, Detroit

DETROIT IS THE NEW BLACK A contemporary approach to the classic cardigan, Detroit is the New Black transforms traditional academic styling into crisp streetwear. Cranbrook Varsity Cardigan – DITNB, 52 E. Forest, Detroit

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THEATRE

THE STAGES COME IN DETROIT’S THEATRE SPOTS, PRODUCERS & DIRECTORS

T

he eccentric world of the Cabaret is alive and well in Detroit.

Ever since I was a child and saw Bozo in person, I’ve been star-struck. It’s hard to explain, but seeing someone famous, even if it is a clown, gives me an adrenaline rush. It’s like I’m doing something taboo. I know it’s weird, but the idea that I’m close enough to touch them sort of makes me feel naughty (in a good way).

This obsession has gotten me into trouble from time to time, but it’s also one of the reason’s I LOVE Detroit’s best kept secret-Cabaret 313.

Cabarets date back to 1885, originating in the Montmarte area of Paris. Since then, the intimate evening of song and story telling has come and gone more than once, but it has always been adored by people who want to get up close and personal with the performers (without the fear of a restraining order).

So far, I’ve attended three performances of Cabaret 313’s and every one has been very different from the others, they’ve all been extremely entertaining and each has succeeded in making me feel like I’m royalty at a private concert. They were all held in different venues, and no matter where they were, the moment I walked through the doors, I felt like a member of an intimate club.

Each event has a pre-show reception, which normally isn’t my thing (I’m not a big fan of forced socializing), but the people who attend these events are really cool theatre lovers and more importantly; they think I’m hip too.

Defining traditional cabaret as “storytelling through song in an intimate setting” Sandi Reitelman, co-founder of Cabaret 313, says, “The art form of cabaret (at least as Cabaret 313 defines it) is also based on a mutually felt, provocative connection between performer and audience.” Adding, “the best way we know how to ensure this is to make certain that our evenings of cabaret foster an intimate connection.

And the performers agree; “the true beauty of cabaret is what is allowed to happen in the intimacy of a small space between artist & audience” says Christine Andreas, one of Cabaret 313’s artists, adding “when the artist is truly channeling music they love with their ego at rest, their music goes straight into the heart of the listener and that listener receives the unique humanity of that artist as expressed through their music”.

Both Sandi and her co-founder, Allan Nachman have a deep love for the city of Detroit and believe that creating the kinds of intimate and emotionally satisfying evenings that they do help create great Detroit experiences and strengthens audience connection not only to each other, but to Detroit as well.

Cabaret 313 opens it’s season on September 26 with Andreas Players, followed by T Oliver Reid on November 21, Jason Graae on January 23, Alan Cumming on March 19 and Maxine Linehan on May 7.

For more information including venues and times or to order tickets, go to www.cabaret313.org

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TUMBLING DOWN ARE BREAKING THE RULES AND MAKING IT THEIR OWN

We all have defining moments in our lives. Mine was the day I realized I was a bad dancer. When I say bad, I mean, “Elaine from Seinfeld bad”. I don’t know what’s worse; the fact it took me so long to realize it or the idea that for years I terrified people as they watched me flail my arms around in the air, looking like a drunken windmill on Ecstasy.

My first clue should have been when, after twisting my arms and legs into some sort of deformed mess while struggling with an ill-fated attempt at The Hustle, girls would say things like “let’s sit the next one out”,“I need a break” or my favorite “you are so funny”. Even my friend, who happens to be a choreographer tried to help. She agreed to give me lessons.

“Oh Jeff, I can turn anyone into a dancer” she promised in her polished British accent. Well, my “lessons” quickly turned into my “lesson” as she soon realized it wasn’t going to happen. She tried to make me feel better by saying “we can’t all be good at everything now can we?” But I knew what she really meant; I sucked. So, after realizing I was never going to be the next Danny Terrio, I hung up my dance shoes and decided I could at least watch other people do it.

And that’s how I discovered, Eisenhower Dance.

The premiere dance company in metro Detroit for 25 years, Eisenhower Dance brings a repertoire of internationally known choreographers as well as the acclaimed work of Artistic Director Laurie Eisenhower to the stage. Plus, it’s seeing a welcomed new trend. “Over the years we have often found that our best dancers move to larger cities that are known as ‘dance hubs’, such as Chicago and New York”, says Laurie Eisenhower, “but, in more recent years, this seems to be changing. Artists are staying in Detroit and the community is building”.To be truly inspired and in awe by their talent, be sure to catch a performance of one of Eisenhower Dance’s 2015/2016 Metro Series:

October 24/25-ON THE MOVE for 25 years (Varner Hall) December 11-DECEMBER DANCES-25th Winter Season Event (Seligman Performing Arts Center) January 26-EISENHOWER DANCE’S SILVER ANNIVERSARY GALA (Detroit Opera House) April 30- EISENHOWER DANCE’S 25TH ANNIVERSARY CELEBRATION (Macomb Center for the Performing Arts

For more details and to order tickets go to www.eisenhowerdance.org And if you’re interested in taking classes (I promise I won’t be there), you can find information at www.eisenhowerdancecenter.org 13

ART

NICKCAVE T

he common art experience is viewing quietly in reverent contemplation. Don’t touch the art. At Cranbrook Art Museum, Nick Cave’s Soundsuits standing sentinel, muted in position, are a delicious visual assault. Can’t. Stop. Looking. I’m intrigued. What makes this art extraordinary is it’s designed to be worn by the artist so they move. The costumes come at you with such force, they command every drop of your attention. The exhibit so penetrating, the sight and sound electrifies your heart and reminds your soul the only thing that matters on this human journey is love and beauty. Local artist and Cranbrook Academy of Art graduate Elizabeth Youngblood summed it up, “I think the button and toy suits in particular are wonderful tributes to obsession.” An obsession that resulted in a sensual blast of texture and color intricately woven to transport you into a real-life dream.

Parading out of the Redford Theater at the Brightmoor Artist Village performance in June was a brass band accompanied by two dancers whirling their Soundsuits to the beat. The man with the pink umbrella gave the scene a very New Orleans vibe. Local artist and Knight Foundation Grantee Andrew Krieger brought his special needs son Ian to the show. Ian was so enchanted, he followed the dancers right into their dressing room.

That show was followed by three Dance Labs, presented in partnership with MOCAD, which deployed dancers in unison with musicians throughout the city over the summer. On a very warm summer afternoon following the performance at the Dequindre Cut, I had the pleasure of sitting down with Nick.

Is there an organic component to the performances? Does the audience have an influence?

If you’re doing a piece in an open public space you have to take that into consideration. How does it interface with an artist? The audience becomes part of the performance within the performance itself.

What is the message for the exhibit?

Our goal was to reintroduce Detroit back to Detroit and support the creative vibe that’s happening in Detroit.

We were like magnets that create a force that draws people together for a moment of creative celebration.

You said, “I have found my middle and now am working toward what I am leaving behind.”

Why are you at a legacy point? What do you want your legacy to be?

It comes back to a certain point in my career in 1992 with my first Soundsuit in response to the Rodney King incident. From that point forward I knew I was an artist with a conscience and a civic responsibility.

How can I be the conduit into these urban communities that are deprived from culture. We all have responsibility in the world. I want to continue living out that mission.

You were recently inducted into the National Academy. What does that mean to you?

I’m totally thrilled and honored but I can’t let that get in the way of what I’m trying to do as an artist.

How has the community responded to you?

It’s been incredible. It’s been amazing to bring attention to the Ruth Ellis Center for LGBT at-risk youth. A lot of people didn’t even know anything about that center. That center has received a lot of support from the people that were there. We don’t really know the effect on the performers, an organization or the community. The enthusiasm that’s followed has been incredible. The Detroit creative culture is here, we’re present, we’re a force to be reckoned with.

What’s your take on Detroit’s current status in the art world?

That has yet to be defined. The people that are coming to Detroit, that are in Detroit and staying are here for change. They’re here for the long haul. They’re committed. It’s always the artists that come in and change the climate of a community. Creative entrepreneurs are coming in and finding Detroit as a place to settle and rebuild anew.

Anything else you’d like to add?

It’s so amazing to be working with everyone involved with Here Hear. We’re working with these kids at the Ruth Ellis Center. It’s so lovely to see them drop their shields and they can be whoever they are. It’s a safe haven space. These kids are so happy and expressive. We all want to feel like we matter. They all become their own shaman. It makes me understand why I do what I do.

There are two performances remaining in the Here Hear series. Heard Detroit September 26 4PM along the Detroit Riverfront, free and open to the public. Figure This: Detroit October 4 3PM at Masonic Temple. Tickets for this free event are available through the Cranbrook Art Museum’s website. For more information on Nick Cave, Here Hear and Cranbrook Art Museum visit cranbrookartmuseum.org - Kim Fey 14

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ASSEMBLY PLANT

MICHIGAN CENTRAL

CRANBROOK MUSEUM

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NIBBLES & BITS

AARONCOZADD

Brando my Bulldog

Black is my shade

TWO EXTRAORDINARY MEALS + ONE SUPER CHEF

ALL (his) FAVORITES

My Katana

Jeff Newsom

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ber chef Aaron Cozadd’s mac & cheese, brie grilled cheese and Union cubano sandwich has earned him a cult following.He overseas the menus at the super popular Clarkston Union, Vinsetta Garage, Fenton FireHall, Union WoodShop and a greatest hits food truck will soon be on the roads of metro Detroit this fall. We spent the day with him having his favorite dishes at the Clarkston Union followed by a shopping trip at the Eastern Market to grab ingredients for a day off meal cooked at home.

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Vivobarefoot sneakers

Challenger SRT Hellcat

My wifes scent Chanel Mademoiselle

Orchids Dark Chocolate Almonds

Black tea & MCT oil Arm & Hammer toothpaste

Going to Eastern Market and seeing what’s fresh, local and seasonal is Cozadd’s favorite way to eat.The first stop is Fairway Packing Co. for a locker aged wagyu strip steak to add with some free range eggs which he will pan fire in farm fresh butter from the J&M farms stand in Shed 2. We stop for some cheddar jalapeño bagels with herb cream cheese from Detroit Institute of Bagels to nosh on then grab some heirloom cherry tomatoes and Kohlrabi for a fresh topper salad. Herewith, his other favorite things.

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DRIVEN INSANE

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PHOTOGRAPHY

BOSWELL

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Previous pages: clockwise 1-Derek Lam windowpane top $1190 Neiman Marcus Tiff Massy ring necklace $1900 www. tiffmassey.com DVF print blouse $248 KJL gold necklace Reconte Vintage www.recontevintage.com Thierry Lasry sunglasses $435 Neiman Marcus 2-Jil Sander crop coat $780 Jose & Maria Barrera earrings $390 Oscar De La Renta dress $2490 Neiman Marcus Campanelli & Pear Diamond Necklace $62500 3-John Varvatos suit shirt tie shoes These pages: Gucci sweater $795 and bag $1550 @ Gucci Alexander McQueen skirt $995 Fur Scarf $195 Reconte Vintage Max Mara sweater $695 @ Max Mara and Herve Leger skirt $995 Neiman Marcus

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This Page: 1-Nike graphic dunks @ Foot Locker Michael Kors lace dress $3995 Neiman Marcus Tiff Massey Bangle Bracelets $90 each 4-Simone Rocha top $1250 Tender Fredricks & Mae necklace $495 Willys Max Mara Skirt $795 Dries Van Noten crop jacket $1030 Celine pant $2050 Derek Lam top $ $395 Neiman Marcus 5-Gucci Dress $2300 Max Mara coat $1090 Alexis Bittar necklace $495 Next page: Alexis BIttar necklace $475 Neiman Marcus Tomas Maier Coat $830 Simone Rocha Skirt $995 Tender Fashion Jeff Newsom/Soonie Itawi MUA Mellisa Keryn Hair Jen P 6 salon

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LINING AROUND automne hiver homme

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Louis Vuitton

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Junya Watanabe

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Kenzo

Louis Vuitton

Kenzo

illustrations Robert Escalera

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Craig Green @ craig-green.com Junya Wantanabe, Kenzo, Rick Owens, Marcelo Burlon @ Revive 248.731.7849

Junya Watanabe

Craig Green

Marcelo Burlon

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Craig Green

Gucci Somerset Collection 248.643.7630 Louis Vuitton Somerset Collection 248.643.8930

Marcelo Burlon

Rick Owens

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CLASSICAL REVIVAL

Photography Matt LaVere

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Gucci Crocodile Loafer $1950 MaxMara Aviators $180 Z Ballerini King Tote $495 Campanelli & Pear Junghans Watch $2715 Neiman Marcus Tom Ford Pump $2690 Neiman Marcus Celine Tote $2850

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ENTERTAINMENT

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JACKWHITE L

ong gone are the days of smoking cigs and watching the White Stripes on the Gold Dollar stage. Yet as much as I yearn for what Detroit once was, it’s amazing to see how much it has changed and for the better. The rebirth of Detroit is not just a buzz circling our famously wheeled city; it’s a force breathing fresh life into our downtown streets reminding us of what makes us great.

Detroit’s uprising is a wave everyone wants to ride. Due to brave new business ventures, well-known companies such as Compuware, and stores the likes of John Varvatos planting themselves smack in the middle of the city, midtown is rapidly expanding. We still have our hole in the wall pubs, but now they are surrounded by brand new restaurants, bistros, breweries and distilleries.

These new businesses support the growing number of people coming downtown while simultaneously creating job opportunities. All this popularity and growth for a town some thought forgotten.

It is with this strong evidence of regrowth that, in 2011, Shinola decided to bse its manufacturing operations in a place where it could proudly boast the tagline “built in Detroit.” Using the same innovation and industry that Detroit was founded on, Shinola brought a booming business to an open armed city. I quickly became an avid fan of the quality handmade watches, leather goods and bicycles being made right here at home, as did just about everyone I knew. But it is the next step in Shinola’s future that has me really fired up: a brilliant collaboration with Third Man Records. Together they will usher in a new era of music and innovation to the Cass Corridor.

For those not in the know, Third Man Records was founded by our one and only Detroit native Jack White. If you don’t know who Jack White is, well, you should. He is a major force to be reckoned with in the ever-changing music industry. In a time of mainstream music favoring bubblegum pop, rap and hip-hop, Jack White still sells out stadiums with his original alternative strain of music.

A true rock star whose sound cannot be pigeonholed into just one genre, Jack is still known to prefer smaller venues. With a career that legends are made of, Jack already has 11 GRAMMYs under his belt, not to mention 29 career nominations, and a star on The Music City Walk of Fame in Nashville. With all that said, it’s easy to forget where it all began.

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Flashback to the late 90’s and Detroit’s emerging garage rock scene—the one almost forgotten under Seattle’s alternative umbrella over the music industry, and this is where the White Stripes were born. Started in 1997 by Jack and his then wife, Meg, the duo stood out with a fresh sound influenced by blues, rock and punk. They quickly made a name for themselves and “Seven Nation Army” became an anthem still heard in sports arenas and at protests around the world to this day. Six studio albums later, the White Stripes disbanded, but not Jack’s career. He has since recorded 2 albums with The Raconteurs as well as 2 solo albums. His latest musical endeavor with The Dead Weather has their second album being released this September by his very own recording label.

That’s right. The man wears many hats both figuratively and literally. White started Third Man Records in 2001 right here in his hometown of Detroit and moved the headquarters to Nashville in 2009. This location can boast many “firsts” that make it stand apart from just any record label/ recording studio. The most notable being The Blue Room, which is currently the only live performance venue in the world that can record shows directly to vinyl, though usually in limited production for the attendees. Third Man also houses a record store complete with a novelties lounge as well as a photo studio with a black room included. Considering the label’s origin and White’s history, it was only a matter of time before a presence in Detroit was established.

So now here we are. This past June, Jack White and Shinola founder Tom Kartsotis partnered up to acquire 441 Canfield Street in the Cass Corridor of Detroit. The building is already home to the flagship Shinola store and will soon include the Third Man Records’ second retail space. Set to be up and running by Black Friday of this year, Nov. 27, it won’t be long before we see what surprises are in store. One can only imagine what the collaboration will hold since the Shinola brand is adding yet another category of products to its arsenal: the manufacturing of quality audio equipment that includes turntables, headphones and speakers all the while providing more jobs to Detroiters. The possibilities are endless when you combine these two incredible entities that are creating a new addition to the everlasting Detroit community. I for one cannot wait to see what comes of this “beautiful friendship.” - Andi Rehm

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THANK YOU: Cranbrook Art Museum Ford Wyoming Theatre Neiman Marcus Louis Vuitton Revive Tender Linda Dresner Gucci Max Mara Z Ballerini Shinola Campanelli & Pear Nora Scout 6 salon Day Space Studios Detroit Motorhome Company Studio Persimmon Detroit Is The New Black Hugh ZMC Pharmacy Nasty Little Man Our/Detroit 2 Unique Caterers & Event Planning Eisenhower Dance Center Caberet 313 Found Objects Lou Gillis The Staff & Contributors RGA Model Management & Everyone else who made this happen - JN 39