Permanent magazine pdf 2015 lips

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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FOR EXCELLENT LIP PROCEDURES

By Debbie Miller, CPCP

In my opinion, it should never be attempted unless the technician has had a minimum of one years experience in brow and eyeliner procedures. At that point, a specific advanced lip class should be taken, that provides the ability for the technician to work on live models under the guidance of a credentialed instructor.

It is imperative to have a thorough faceto-face consultation with the potential client to ensure that the decision to

BEFORE

receive permanent lip color is a good choice. It is also imperative the client’s medical history is assessed for conditions that may be adverse to the lip tattoo procedure.

For example, anyone with a history of herpes simplex (cold sores) should be advised that a prophylactic anti-viral medication be obtained from their physician to prevent or reduce the chance of a herpetic outbreak following any

AFTER

lip trauma that may stimulate the viral reaction.

The client must be made to understand the limitations and expected results from The eyes may be the window to the soul, but

More and more people are seeking lip fillers

when we speak, the focus is on the mouth. An

to enhance the lost volume, and these fillers

esthetically pleasing lip shape and lip color

directly impact the lip tattooing procedure.

contribute to a more youthful appearance. As

permanent lip color.

In my 15-plus years as a permanent cosmetic artist, I have learned one of the

we age, the lips begin to lose definition and

Many factors must be considered before a client

key elements to a successful procedure is

color and if there is natural asymmetry, the aging

can be accepted as a viable candidate for this

to clearly convey the details and truths,

process magnifies those asymmetries.

procedure.

and to manage the client’s expectations.

Fine lines and deeper wrinkles form around the

The very first consideration is the technician’s

perioral border and the lips themselves lose

skill level. The cosmetic lip tattoo is an advanced

volume due to collagen loss.

procedure.

HEALED

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The age of the client, the condition of the lip tissue, the presence of sun damage, freckles or discolorations, areas of hypopigmentation and another fairly common condition known as Fordyce granules – wherein the lip has white spots (ectopic sebaceous glands) usually seen in the inner area of the top lip tissue going down into the wet tissue and mucous membrane – will all affect the final result

BEFORE

HEALED

of the healed appearance.

BEFORE

In a young client with an abundance of For example, if a client wants fuller looking lips,

Caution should be exercised when choosing the

natural collagen, little to no sun damage

but they have wrinkles around the lips and porous

needle configuration for a lip procedure.

and good elastic skin, the results are fairly predictable; the end result can be

skin, tattooing above the natural vermillion is seldom a good plan. It may accentuate the lines;

Remember, the smaller the needle configuration

expected to appear evenly pigmented,

and the results can appear uneven, splotchy, and

(a single needle vs. a round needle grouping or

and typically not more than a minor touch

very unnatural to see color above the border. It

a magnum needle grouping) can implant color

up is needed to perfect the result.

may look fine due to swelling and stretching of

more deeply. The deeper the color, the cooler

the skin immediately after the procedure, but

the color tone will appear.

The typical client that will request lip color is not young. Young clients will

when the swelling subsides the wrinkles return.

It is then that you will see “highs” and “lows”

It is common in this day of social media and photo

usually still have good natural color; still

in the color intensity – the depression of the

sharing that we see many beautiful examples of

have defined borders and fullness. The

wrinkle can appear darker than the raised edges

technicians’ work. There is a very big difference

older client is experiencing color loss,

adjoining the wrinkle and the line will look

in most “immediately after” photos, compared

collagen loss, and laxity and wants the

uneven and splotchy.

to the actual healed results 4-8 weeks post

tattooed lip color to make the lips appear

procedure.

more youthful.

AFTER

Even when no distinct lines are visible around the lips, if the skin above the vermillion line is at all porous, the color will look porous and make the pores more distinct.

It is with great caution that color should be applied to the skin above the actual lip vermilion.

This work should be reserved for the most experienced professionals.

HEALED

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The same theory must be applied to lips.

The darker and more purple/blue the natural lip is, the cooler the lip is and it will cool down your pigment, or absorb it altogether with no visible lip color.

Learning how to choose the appropriate pigment tones, and to add the proper corrector colors to your pigment formula is hugely important for a superior end

DESIGNING SHAPE CLEFT LIP

TATTOOING LIP OUTLINE

result.

BEFORE

Not everyone is a good candidate for lip They also have the expendable income to afford

Not only does every individual have a natural

color, and it is important to know when to

our fees! However, in a mature client, with loss

skin tone that is based on one’s ethnicity (with

pass up working on those lips.

of collagen and lack of elasticity, wrinkles, sun

many variations within each range) but also

There is no amount of money worth

damage, discoloration, or visible capillaries in

something many experienced technicians refer

having to deal with an unhappy client

the lip tissue, the results can be mediocre at

to as the Blue Factor of the lips, denoting its

whose expectations have not been met.

best, and very difficult to obtain even saturation,

coolness in appearance.

One’s reputation may be at stake; in the

adequate color tone, and a pleasing result.

And it typically requires 2-3 sessions to fully and

Regardless of ethnic contribution to skin tone,

age of social media, photo sharing and

evenly saturate with pigment.

the lips have their own tone relative to blood

reviews, this work can either positively

flow. This cool tone gives the lips its natural

or very negatively impact your practice.

color, or lack thereof.

In the end, I know we all desire beautiful

When we add in natural asymmetry, scar tissue,

results that reflect our hard-earned skills.

lip fillers, or congenital disfigurements such as cleft lip repair, it gets trickier still. Finally, it is

I always provide this example: If you use a red

critical to be able to spot areas of concern that

marker on white paper, the result is a clear true

Staying true to good fundamental

could be pre-cancerous or a cancerous lesion.

red. If you use the same red marker on blue

guidelines, which also includes avoiding

When in doubt, don’t proceed, and refer the

paper, the result will not be red, but a shade of

trendy looks, experimenting with artistic

client to a dermatologist.

purple to purple-black depending on how dark

“highlighting” with white pigment, and

Next, the color of the client’s natural lip tone is of

the blue paper is. If it is very dark blue, the red

over-extending the lip borders beyond

paramount importance when determining the

marker may barely show at all and any color you

the safe zone, will ensure we minimize

pigment selection.

see is either extremely dark purple, or not visible

less than desirable results both in the

at all.

short and long term.

AFTER

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I am a very firm believer that the longterm viability and reputation (which

“I have been blessed with artistic talent; but only years of

can also affect local rules and governing

proper education, amazing mentoring by key people in our

of our industry) of the permanent

industry, and constantly working to better my understanding

cosmetics industry is dependent upon

of every aspect of our profession, have brought me to the

the quality and integrity of the individual

place I am at today.

practitioner. We all have a responsibility

I found my passion, and spend the majority of my time living

to our clients, our respective reputations

and breathing my career. It is amazing to be able to impact

and our industry as a whole, to practice

the lives of my clients and students in such a positive way.

safe and sound techniques.

Even though I am able to derive a good living through my

If you are learning, struggling. or wish to

practice, it never feels like a job. It is who I am and what I do.

BEFORE

I make it my constant goal to be a good example to my

advance your skill set in regards to the

fellow professionals, and to always make myself available to

advanced procedure of lip tattooing,

mentor those who have the same passion for excellence that

consider attending my full-day, hands-on

motivates me.”

workshop in October 2015 in Long Beach, California aboard the beautiful Queen

Debbie Miller, CPCP

Mary ship-turned hotel at the SPCP Fall Conference.

Debbie Miller biography:

Details can be found on the www.SPCP.org website, or see the SPCP Facebook page.

This workshop will cover all aspects of the lip pigmentation process, with photos,

AFTER

Debbie Miller is a Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional (CPCP) with over thirty years’ experience in the beauty and

videos and discussions, as well as practice

esthetics industry, and the last fifteen devoted exclusively to

time with great tips and exercises to help

permanent cosmetics and para-medical tattooing.

you perfect your lip procedures.

I encourage you to keep education a top

Owner of Newport Permanent Makeup, in Newport Beach,

priority!

California, Debbie is a respected and highly sought after practitioner, lecturer, teacher, author, and elected Director of the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP).

She credits her success to practicing exceptional client communication skills, sound fundamental practices, and the belief that ongoing education and updating one’s skills on a regular basis are paramount to long-term success in the permanent cosmetics industry.