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THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE FOR EXCELLENT LIP PROCEDURES By Debbie Miller, CPCP
In my opinion, it should never be attempted unless the technician has had a minimum of one years experience in brow and eyeliner procedures. At that point, a specific advanced lip class should be taken, that provides the ability for the technician to work on live models under the guidance of a credentialed instructor. It is imperative to have a thorough faceto-face consultation with the potential client to ensure that the decision to
BEFORE
receive permanent lip color is a good choice. It is also imperative the client’s medical history is assessed for conditions that may be adverse to the lip tattoo procedure. For example, anyone with a history of herpes simplex (cold sores) should be advised that a prophylactic anti-viral medication be obtained from their physician to prevent or reduce the chance of a herpetic outbreak following any
AFTER
lip trauma that may stimulate the viral reaction. The client must be made to understand the limitations and expected results from The eyes may be the window to the soul, but
More and more people are seeking lip fillers
when we speak, the focus is on the mouth. An
to enhance the lost volume, and these fillers
esthetically pleasing lip shape and lip color
directly impact the lip tattooing procedure.
contribute to a more youthful appearance. As
permanent lip color. In my 15-plus years as a permanent cosmetic artist, I have learned one of the
we age, the lips begin to lose definition and
Many factors must be considered before a client
key elements to a successful procedure is
color and if there is natural asymmetry, the aging
can be accepted as a viable candidate for this
to clearly convey the details and truths,
process magnifies those asymmetries.
procedure.
and to manage the client’s expectations.
Fine lines and deeper wrinkles form around the
The very first consideration is the technician’s
perioral border and the lips themselves lose
skill level. The cosmetic lip tattoo is an advanced
volume due to collagen loss.
procedure.
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The age of the client, the condition of the lip tissue, the presence of sun damage, freckles or discolorations, areas of hypopigmentation and another fairly common condition known as Fordyce granules – wherein the lip has white spots (ectopic sebaceous glands) usually seen in the inner area of the top lip tissue going down into the wet tissue and mucous membrane – will all affect the final result
BEFORE
HEALED
of the healed appearance.
BEFORE
In a young client with an abundance of For example, if a client wants fuller looking lips,
Caution should be exercised when choosing the
natural collagen, little to no sun damage
but they have wrinkles around the lips and porous
needle configuration for a lip procedure.
and good elastic skin, the results are fairly predictable; the end result can be
skin, tattooing above the natural vermillion is seldom a good plan. It may accentuate the lines;
Remember, the smaller the needle configuration
expected to appear evenly pigmented,
and the results can appear uneven, splotchy, and
(a single needle vs. a round needle grouping or
and typically not more than a minor touch
very unnatural to see color above the border. It
a magnum needle grouping) can implant color
up is needed to perfect the result.
may look fine due to swelling and stretching of
more deeply. The deeper the color, the cooler
the skin immediately after the procedure, but
the color tone will appear.
The typical client that will request lip color is not young. Young clients will
when the swelling subsides the wrinkles return. It is then that you will see “highs” and “lows”
It is common in this day of social media and photo
usually still have good natural color; still
in the color intensity – the depression of the
sharing that we see many beautiful examples of
have defined borders and fullness. The
wrinkle can appear darker than the raised edges
technicians’ work. There is a very big difference
older client is experiencing color loss,
adjoining the wrinkle and the line will look
in most “immediately after” photos, compared
collagen loss, and laxity and wants the
uneven and splotchy.
to the actual healed results 4-8 weeks post
tattooed lip color to make the lips appear
procedure.
more youthful.
AFTER
Even when no distinct lines are visible around the lips, if the skin above the vermillion line is at all porous, the color will look porous and make the pores more distinct. It is with great caution that color should be applied to the skin above the actual lip vermilion. This work should be reserved for the most experienced professionals.
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The same theory must be applied to lips. The darker and more purple/blue the natural lip is, the cooler the lip is and it will cool down your pigment, or absorb it altogether with no visible lip color. Learning how to choose the appropriate pigment tones, and to add the proper corrector colors to your pigment formula is hugely important for a superior end
DESIGNING SHAPE CLEFT LIP
TATTOOING LIP OUTLINE
result.
BEFORE
Not everyone is a good candidate for lip They also have the expendable income to afford
Not only does every individual have a natural
color, and it is important to know when to
our fees! However, in a mature client, with loss
skin tone that is based on one’s ethnicity (with
pass up working on those lips.
of collagen and lack of elasticity, wrinkles, sun
many variations within each range) but also
There is no amount of money worth
damage, discoloration, or visible capillaries in
something many experienced technicians refer
having to deal with an unhappy client
the lip tissue, the results can be mediocre at
to as the Blue Factor of the lips, denoting its
whose expectations have not been met.
best, and very difficult to obtain even saturation,
coolness in appearance. One’s reputation may be at stake; in the
adequate color tone, and a pleasing result. And it typically requires 2-3 sessions to fully and
Regardless of ethnic contribution to skin tone,
age of social media, photo sharing and
evenly saturate with pigment.
the lips have their own tone relative to blood
reviews, this work can either positively
flow. This cool tone gives the lips its natural
or very negatively impact your practice.
color, or lack thereof.
In the end, I know we all desire beautiful
When we add in natural asymmetry, scar tissue,
results that reflect our hard-earned skills.
lip fillers, or congenital disfigurements such as cleft lip repair, it gets trickier still. Finally, it is
I always provide this example: If you use a red
critical to be able to spot areas of concern that
marker on white paper, the result is a clear true
Staying true to good fundamental
could be pre-cancerous or a cancerous lesion.
red. If you use the same red marker on blue
guidelines, which also includes avoiding
When in doubt, don’t proceed, and refer the
paper, the result will not be red, but a shade of
trendy looks, experimenting with artistic
client to a dermatologist.
purple to purple-black depending on how dark
“highlighting” with white pigment, and
Next, the color of the client’s natural lip tone is of
the blue paper is. If it is very dark blue, the red
over-extending the lip borders beyond
paramount importance when determining the
marker may barely show at all and any color you
the safe zone, will ensure we minimize
pigment selection.
see is either extremely dark purple, or not visible
less than desirable results both in the
at all.
short and long term.
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I am a very firm believer that the longterm viability and reputation (which
“I have been blessed with artistic talent; but only years of
can also affect local rules and governing
proper education, amazing mentoring by key people in our
of our industry) of the permanent
industry, and constantly working to better my understanding
cosmetics industry is dependent upon
of every aspect of our profession, have brought me to the
the quality and integrity of the individual
place I am at today.
practitioner. We all have a responsibility
I found my passion, and spend the majority of my time living
to our clients, our respective reputations
and breathing my career. It is amazing to be able to impact
and our industry as a whole, to practice
the lives of my clients and students in such a positive way.
safe and sound techniques.
Even though I am able to derive a good living through my
If you are learning, struggling. or wish to
practice, it never feels like a job. It is who I am and what I do.
BEFORE
I make it my constant goal to be a good example to my
advance your skill set in regards to the
fellow professionals, and to always make myself available to
advanced procedure of lip tattooing,
mentor those who have the same passion for excellence that
consider attending my full-day, hands-on
motivates me.”
workshop in October 2015 in Long Beach, California aboard the beautiful Queen
Debbie Miller, CPCP
Mary ship-turned hotel at the SPCP Fall Conference.
Debbie Miller biography:
Details can be found on the www.SPCP.org website, or see the SPCP Facebook page. This workshop will cover all aspects of the lip pigmentation process, with photos,
AFTER
Debbie Miller is a Certified Permanent Cosmetic Professional (CPCP) with over thirty years’ experience in the beauty and
videos and discussions, as well as practice
esthetics industry, and the last fifteen devoted exclusively to
time with great tips and exercises to help
permanent cosmetics and para-medical tattooing.
you perfect your lip procedures. I encourage you to keep education a top
Owner of Newport Permanent Makeup, in Newport Beach,
priority!
California, Debbie is a respected and highly sought after practitioner, lecturer, teacher, author, and elected Director of the Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals (SPCP). She credits her success to practicing exceptional client communication skills, sound fundamental practices, and the belief that ongoing education and updating one’s skills on a regular basis are paramount to long-term success in the permanent cosmetics industry.