ESMOD Editions Booklet 2015

Page 1

www.esmod-editions.com

Focus on fashion details Textiles Guide - Men - Fashion drawings - Fashion Saga Become Prices 2015

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a

pattern

drafter

Women’s underwear

Women The art of draping Sketchbook

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- Children - The grammar of

Western

edition@esmod.com 12 Rue de Cléry 75002 PARIS. Ph : +33 (0)1 42 33 31 56

clothing - Grading


The Fashion design process Five books that propose a step-by-step approach to all the creative processes in the fashion industry.

CREATIVE APPROACHES The first volume of the Steps of Fashion series, Creative Approaches lays the base for the creative process today in the fashion world. Understand the mechanics of fashion, decipher the mysteries of conceiving a garment by analyzing the difference between creators and designers as well as how they function. Come up with a concept, make an idea practical and possible, understand the profiles of creative people in the industry through sketches and illustrations. 21 X 29.7 96 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 32.50€TTC

FASHION DRAWINGS This second volume in the Steps of Fashion series concentrates on tools for fashion drawing. Learn to draw your fashion creations by beginning to understand the human body and how to stylize it through sketches. Each person will find a way to express his or her creativity in using basic drawing skills for women’s, men’s and children’s fashions. Imagine different poses and figure drawing to express techniques as a basis for drawing flat garments. Learn the vocabulary, shapes and details of the three clothing sectors. 21 X 29.7 208 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 45.70€TTC


GRAPHIC EXPRESSIONS The logical continuation of the second volume of the Steps of Fashion series on fashion drawing, Graphic expressions helps you diverge from fashion drawing basics to personalize your drawing know-how and become an illustrator. Explore the tools that will allow you to freely express your sensitivity in your creative universe by observing various methods for expression, which you can select based on your needs, desires and graphic environment. 21 X 29.7 96 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English

32.50€TTC

COLLECTION PROCESS This book brings you behind the scenes to understand how fashion collections are born, organized and manufactured. Though the industry may be fragmented, the collection process itself is universal in the phases which compose it and the collaborators involved. The work proposes a parallel between the work methods of a “creative” and a ready-to-wear designer.

21 X 29.7 96 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 32.50€TTC

PRODUCT ENVIRONMENT This book will analyze and help conceive the identification codes a brand will use on all its communication grounds - logos, signage and packaging - without forgetting its marketing and merchandising strategies. 21 X 29.7 96 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 32.50€TTC


Become a pattern drafter MEN’S GARMENTS

D EVE N IR

M ODELISTE Become a pattern drafter

Le vêtement masculin

Men’s garments Claire Wargnier

This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete men’s wardrobe can be made using this method from shirts to coats : Shirts, ties, vests, knitwear, city pants, jeans, suits, jackets and coats in all styles (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport). 21 X 29.7 288 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 45.70€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-30-5

GRADING MEN’S GARMENTS This book, the second stage in our "Become a Patterndrafter/ Men’s garments" series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes : shirts, vests, jackets, coats, blousons, parkas, jeans pants and tailored trousers . Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. Manual and computer methods are explained in partnership with the Lectra company. 21.5 X 29.7 112 pages

Soft cover/bound French / English 29.40€TTC

CHILDREN’S GARMENTS

D E VE NIR

M ODELISTE Become a pattern drafter

Le vêtement d’enfant Children’s garments Claire Wargnier

A pattern drafting manual for children’s “ready-to-wear” clothing that includes details on the overall shape of a child’s body from infancy to adolescence, as well as the procedures for development and transformation (volumes, sleeves, collars, details) + 10 added models of garments . 21 X 29.7 240 pages

D E VE N I R

M ODELISTE Become a pattern drafter

La gradation du vêtement d’enfant Grading children’s garments Gradation et tableaux évolutives des tailles de la layette à l’adolescence

Patternmaking bases and sizing charts from layette to teens

Claire Wargnier

EDITIONS

Soft cover / bound French / English 45.70€TTC

GRADING CHILDREN’S GARMENTS This book, the second stage in our "Become a Patterndrafter/ Children’s garments" series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes. Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. Manual methods and sizing charts for the models in a children’s wardrobe are explained. 21 X 29.7 96 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 29.40€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-21-3


A series of flat patternmaking methods in the different sectors of Ready-to-wear WOMEN’S GARMENTS Tome 1 This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete women’s wardrobe can be made using this method. For garments called “fluid”: skirts, shirts, blouses, small tops, all styles of dresses (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport). 21 X 29.7 240 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 45.70€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-22-0

WOMEN’S GARMENTS Tome 2 This method uses a logical drafting technique called “flat pattern design” that provides key formulas that apply to all fashions. A complete women’s wardrobe can be made using this method from pants to “suit-coats”: city pants, jeans, warmup suits, suits, jackets and coats in all styles (classic and timeless, fashion, luxury, sport). 21 X 29.7 240 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 39.50€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-23-7

GRADING WOMEN’S GARMENTS This book, the third stage in our "Become a Patterndrafter / Women’s garments" series, completes the creation of garments developed earlier using a point-by-point explanation of how to change their sizes. Conceived to respond to the needs of today’s clothing industry, it also addresses individuals passionate about sewing thanks to the choice of models used which can serve as examples for creating a multitude of other designs. 21 X 29.7 112 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 29.40€TTC

WOMEN’S UNDERWEAR A complement to patternmaking methods for women’s fashions, this book addresses the entire range of women’s underwear by using flat patternmaking techniques for bras, panties, bodysuits, corsets and bustiers. 21 X 29.7 192 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 45.70€TTC


Know-how THE ART OF TAILORING Thanks to his skills inherited from the top Parisian tailors, Yukio Kakita helps comprehend the sensitivity behind the techniques for making a suit. Follow his step-by-step explanations to understand how cuts and shapes, reinforced by the inside structure, can express your desires and take you from Readyto-Wear to Luxury Womenswear to Bespoke men’s suits and thus discover … The Art of Tailoring. The Art of Tailoring Yukio Kakita

22 X 30.5 176 pages

EDITIONS

Hard cover/bound French / English 39.50€TTC

L’art des drapés The art of draping

THE ART OF DRAPING L’art des drapés

Thanks to Nils-Christian Ihlen-Hansen’s experience as a renowned pattern-drafter, this book tackles the difficult technique of the draped clothes in the Western culture of fashion. Plays on transparency, moving of fabrics and of bodies all take an important part in this subtle exercise. Giving to the pattern-drafting of the garment all its nobility by its cutting technique, its choices of prestigious fabrics and the dexterity it requires, the draping technique transforms the garment into an artwork ; thus it becomes a style exercise praised and put forward by the most important figures of fashion.

The art of draping

Nils-Christian Ihlen-Hansen

25/01/11 16:26

22 X 30.5 112 pages

Hard cover/bound French / English 37€TTC

TEXTILES GUIDE

Florence Ferrari

Guide des Textiles

Textiles guide

EDITIONS

Conceived from a user viewpoint with a simple-to-read approach, this book explores technical information on fabrics while keeping in mind the difficult choices a user must make when conceiving his creations. The first part of the book looks at the textile industry (raw materials, spinners, weavers and finishers) without forgetting a lesson in fabric "hand", a vital skill needed for selecting fabrics ; the second part helps consumers learn the vocabulary, properties, qualities and defects of each fabric family : woolens, cottons, silkies, knits and innovative fabrics. Clever tips and technical details are scattered throughout the book to help the reader not fall in the traps certain fabrics might hide behind their seductive appeal. 21 X 29.7 156 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 32.50€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-31-2


Focus on fashion details TOME 1 Generalities for machine assembly, vocabulary and diagrams for all seams, yokes, buttoning plackets and the different assembly procedures for : unlined skirts, lined skirts, women’s and men’s trousers, women’s shirts, men’s shirts, women’s jackets and men’s jackets.

DETAILS DE MODE A LA-H LOUPE F -E EMME

OMME

NFANT

Généralités - Coutures Generalities - Seams Pattes de boutonnage Buttoning tabs Empiècements Yokes Modes opératoires

21 X 29.7 192 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 33.40€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-16-9

TOME 1

Assembly procedures

FOCUS ON FASHION DETAILS

Claire Wargnier

W OMEN -M EN -C HILDREN

EDITIONS

TOME 2 DETAILS DE MODE

All pockets for all kinds of garments : patch pockets, pockets in a seam, slit pockets for shirts, dresses, tailored jackets, coats, etc.

A LA-H LOUPE F -E EMME

OMME

NFANT

Poches Pockets

21 X 29.7 208 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 33.40€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-17-6 TOME 2

FOCUS ON FASHION DETAILS

Claire Wargnier

W OMEN- M EN -C HILDREN

EDITIONS

TOME 3 DETAILS DE MODE A LA-H LOUPE F -E

Everything that you need to know about zippers, flies, waistbands, pleats and vents !

EMME

OMME

NFANT

Fermetures à glissière Zippers Braguettes

21 X 29.7 192 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 33.40€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-18-3

Flies Ceintures Belts PlisPlis et Fentes et Fentes

TOME 3

Pleats and Vents

FOCUS ON FASHION DETAILS

Claire Wargnier

W OMEN -M EN -C HILDREN

EDITIONS

TOME 4 All collars, different assembly procedures for sleeves, facings for loose-fitting and tailored garments, including tailored jackets and coats, and complete with the different kinds of interfacings and linings. 21 X 29.7 240 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 33.40€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-19-0

DETAILS DE MODE A LA-H LOUPE F -E EMME

OMME

NFANT

Cols Collars Manches Sleeves Parementures Facings Entoilages et Doublures Canvas et Linings

FOCUS ON FASHION DETAILS

TOME 4

Claire Wargnier

W OMEN -M EN -C HILDREN

EDITIONS

A series of 4 books showing step-by-step details for Men’s, Women’s and Children’s garments. Essential patterns and measurement charts accompany each page to help you realize all your creations.


The grammar of Western clothing COVER IT UP ! First volume of our Grammar of Western clothing. Men – and women - have always wrestled with the elements to protect themselves from cold or hot weather and shield against rain or snow. Though they may have wished to flatter their physique for esthetic purposes, they were obliged to invent and adapt clothes for their everyday circumstances. The shapes, functions and details which appeared over the centuries defined a rich wardrobe, often forgotten in modern times. This "Grammar of Western Clothing” gives an overview of the codes and characteristics of typical garments from yesterday and today. In this first volume, we explore the blousons, raincoats, habits, coats and jackets which… Cover us up ! 20 X 28 144 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 35€TTC

WEARING THE TROUSERS Second volume of our Grammar of Western clothing. We continue this "Grammar of Western clothing" with the rules, codes and characteristics of clothing from the past and the present. Historically linked to the men’s fashion wardrobe, breeches and trousers have, more recently, seduced and become a part of women’s fashion as well. They originally wore them for sport activities but also when they replaced men at their jobs during wartime. Women adopted trousers as a key part of their wardrobe for their practicality and representation of women’s social evolution and even their independence. Breeches, pants for leisure wear and tailored trouser shapes, functions and details followed this direction, establishing a timeless wardrobe and defining a rich language that is often forgotten today. In this second book, breeches and trousers deliver their secrets to illustrate this social evolution since today, both men AND women are… Wearing the Trousers ! 20 X 28 128 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 35€TTC


KEEP YOUR SHIRT ON ! Give the shirt off your back, don’t lose your shirt, keep your shirt on, change your shirt, a stuffed shirt... these colloquial expressions show that, over the years, the shirt was considered to be a garment intimately linked with everyday living. Worn next to the body but visible, the shirt had two important roles : hygiene and protection for the body and indicating social status. Always accessorized or accompanied by a vest, the shapes, fabrics and embellishments of shirts, blouses and bodices have evolved to become part of a coded wardrobe that defines a rich vocabulary, often forgotten in modern times. This premise is the basis for the third book in our "Grammar of Western clothing" series which illustrates the rules and characteristics typical of garments from yesterday and today. To read this book, relax and take off your jacket to discover shirts, blouses, bodices and vests... but keep your shirt on ! 20 X 28 144 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 35€TTC

SENT OF DRESSES Corsets, panniers, crinolines or bustles are words that no longer have significance today. But at various times throughout the history of clothing, women wore these essential pieces under their dresses and often needed help to put them on. Depending on the fashions of each period, certain parts of the body were highlighted as elements of seduction (a tiny waist, extremely wide hips, an exaggerated bottom,…). Women sought what they believed to be an ideal of perfection while obeying the strict, often extravagant codes of Fashion and social norms. It was the events surrounding World Wars I and II and then the Women’s Liberation Movement of the 1970s that finally introduced dresses which did not restrict the body. But even today, dresses still assert a woman’s femininity. Every woman has at least one precise memory of a dress that marked a key event in her life and was intrinsically associated with her joy of pleasing others ! 20 X 28 144 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 35€TTC

ISBN 978-2-909617-44-2

Parfum de robes All dressed up Mireille Tembouret


FASHION SAGA, 170 YEARS OF INNOVATIONS

 

 

   170  ᾽

As much a history of Manufacturing and Ready-to-wear as a family saga, this book recounts the path of tailor Alexis Lavigne, a formidable visionary who cleverly constructed the technical foundations of Fashion. As an innovator, Alexis Lavigne dedicated himself, throughout his life, to analyzing the human body so as to advance and promote Paris fashion, especially thanks to his inventions which included the tapemeasure and the dress form. By opening his workshop and then transforming it into a school, this humanist launched what would become Paris’ oldest fashion school. Here is the little-known story of a school that was perpetuated, first by his descendants, then by those dedicated to his spirit. 170 years of innovation at the service of Elegance and Well-Being ! 21.5 X 27 160 pages

Une année de styles

Ioannis GUIA

365 jours 12 basiques et vous !

Hard cover/bound Demie-toile English 39.50€TTC

UNE ANNÉE DE STYLES What can I wear today ? This book-calendar answers the question, exploring 52 fashion themes throughout the year. Starting with a foundation of 12 timeless basics, combine 60 possible outfits and give them a special flair by pairing them with other pieces or accessories. The result ? 365 days of fashion to accompany each woman in different directions so she can develop her own style. 19 X 28.5 176 pages

Wire O / Cover with magnets French 34.90€TTC


THE SCHOOL’S 170TH ANNIVERSARY TAPE MEASURE Created to celebrate the 170th anniversary of the school’s founding, this 170 cm tape measure is illustrated with engravings of dress forms beginning with those invented by Alexis Lavigne in 1841 up to those used in the school today. 170 cm waterproof tapemeasure 6€TTC

SKETCHBOOK Conceived as a memory aid to use during shopping expeditions, this sketchbook of semi-transparent white pages has a fold-out jacket with basic sketches of women’s and men’s silhouettes. Color ranges with names in French and English also give a visual overview with computer reference numbers. 14 X 21 50 pages

Soft cover / bound French / English 15.00€TTC


FORM The ESMOD form was invented and registered by Alexis Lavigne in 1841, (along with the invention of the supple tape measure). The ESMOD form presently used in our network of schools is a dignified descendent of the mannequin offered to the Empress Eugenie from Alexis Lavigne. Our ESMOD form follows since 2008 the measures of the Ready-to-wear clothing, revised during the last campaign of European measurements. Size 36

Size 38

Neckline measurement

35

36

Bust measurement

84

88

Waist measurement

64

68

Full hip measurement

90

94

Feet quadripode with casters, metal rod or tripode, wood rod. 495â‚ŹTTC


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