Pocket Guide Buenos Aires

POCKET GUIDE

BUENOS AIRES

BARRIO NORTE • SAN TELMO • PUERTO MADERO • RECOLETA LA BOCA • LAS CAÑITAS • MONSERRAT • PALERMO VIEJO PALERMO HOLLYWOOD • BELGRANO • COSTANERA TIGRE • MATADEROS • BOEDO • VILLA CRESPO Julián de Dios

Buenos Aires Pocket Guide (2da Ed.) Copyright © 2019 / de Dios Editores Copyright © 2019 / DAK Buenos Aires / Argentina Publishing Director: Julián de Dios.

Edition: María Virginia Salazar.

Journalistic Research: Gabriel Magda, Pilar Mira y Ernestina Cáceres.

Layout: Sebastián Sánchez Iriarte.

Translator: Martin Tozer, G. Mithieux.

Cartography: Taken from the Buenos Aires Map Guide, published by de Dios Editores (ISBN 978-987-1551-26-2) Photographs: Julián de Dios, Martín Acosta, Mara Miura. Fotolia: Benjamin Cabassot, Gianpaolo Pagano M., Rrruss, Holger Mette. Shutterstock: Analia Valeria Urani.

Editorial Policy: Following our editorial policies since 1993, the selection of the places and opinions published here expresses the journalistic and independent criteria of de Dios Editores team, and does not represent any company, product, brand or industry.

E D I T O R E S

Editorial Board Julián de Dios Carla D’Elia de Dios Editores Tacuarí 131 - Primer piso “B” (1071) Buenos Aires - Argentina Tel. (54-11) 4334-0235 / 4342-0029 info@dediosonline.com www.dedioseditores.com Buenos Aires Pocket Guide ISBN 978-950-9828-54-4 2019 Printed in Buenos Aires - Argentina Printed in Ferr Can Print Srl. Special Sales: For special copies, translations or licenses, contact: ventascorporativas@dediosonline.com Reserved Rights: The deposit provided for by Act 11,723 has been made. Dirección Nacional del Derecho de Autor, file number 450319.

The total or partial reproduction of the material in this publication is forbidden.

The editor is not responsible for errors or omissions of information, or for its consequences.

Dios, Julián de Buenos Aires pocket guide, 2da.ed / Julián de Dios. - 2a ed ilustrada. - Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires : De Dios Editores, 2019.

120 p. ; 16 x 11 cm.

ISBN 978-950-9828-54-4 1. Guías de Turismo. 2. Buenos Aires . I. Título.

CDD 790.18

INDEX

BUENOS AIRES INTRODUCTION 4 DISTRICTS 18 TWO-DAY TRIP

52

ATTRACTIONS 62 RESTAURANTS 76 NIGHTLIFE 84 SHOPPING 92 LODGING 104 MAPS 114

Topics

Design 24 D5

Number in the map Coordinates Color of the topic

Attractions Restaurants Nightlife Shopping Lodging

Prices $ economic $$ moderate $$$ intermediate $$$$ expensive

6

INTRODUCTION

Paternal

Retiro Puerto Madero Floresta Caballito Constitución Boca Flores Barracas Ciudadela Nueva Pompeya Villa Devoto

Villa Real

Avellaneda

BUENOS AIRES CITY

Morón

ta

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Palermo Recoleta

Pla

Villa del Parque

Río

Aeroparque Jorge Newbery

Belgrano

la

Aeropuerto El Palomar

Núñez

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Caseros (Tres de Febrero)

Gral.

Paz

General San Martín

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Villa Lugano

Lanús

San Justo

Avenida C

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Quilmes Lomas de Zamora Aeropuerto Internacional Ministro Pistarini (Ezeiza)

Monte Grande

Almirante Brown

Location. The city of Buenos Aires is located in the Central Eastern part of the country and lies on the Western shores of the Río de la Plata. You can arrive by plane from various cities in the world directly to the Aeropuerto Internacional de Ezeiza (international airport), situated on the outskirts of the city, 45 minutes away from the city center. In addition, both Aeroparque Jorge Newbery in Costanera Norte, and El Palomar Airport, 40 minutes away from the city have domestic and regional flights.

INTRODUCTION

Covering an area of 202 square kilometers, Buenos Aires, capital of the Argentine Republic, is the largest city in the country and one of the most important in South America. Nearly 500 years have passed since Spanish visionary Pedro de Mendoza founded the city naming it Ciudad de Nuestra Señora del Buen Ayre (“City of Our Lady of the Fair Winds”). Many years later, in 1580, Juan de Garay celebrated the final foundation. Halfway through the 18th century, barely 20,000 people inhabited the city; nowadays, the total population is approximately 3 million people. The “Reina del Plata” (Queen of the Río de la Plata) earned its nickname because of the cultural diversity passed on by the European immigrants that arrived by the end of the 19th century and the early 20th, searching for opportunities to forge their future. Its character is a fusion between the melancholia of tango, the shrewdness of football, the elegance of the French architecture in Alvear avenue, the Italian flavors from La Boca, the Spanish traditions in Avenida de Mayo, the height of the towers in Puerto Madero, the low houses in Barracas, Palermo’s nightlife, and the sunny days in Tres de Febrero Park.

The result of this fusion is the most European city in Latin America, combining Italian buildings, French parks, and Spanish manors with a porteño tinge, plus a growing modernity that turn Buenos Aires into a unique touristic destination.

HISTORICAL FACTS

5

First foundation. Pedro de Mendoza founded the city for the first time in 1536.

Second foundation. In June 1580, Juan de Garay celebrated the final foundation.

May 25th, 1810. The May Revolution takes place, initial trigger towards Independence.

August, 1812. The national flag was raised for the first time where the Obelisco is today.

First Presidency. Bernardino Rivadavia assumes office in Buenos Aires in 1826.

7

DISTRICTS

LA BOCA Pedro de Mendoza anchored in this part of the city in 1536, without knowing that in that same place, centuries later, one of the city's most historical districts would be built. In the vicinities of the old port, in Vuelta de Rocha, begins the district of La Boca, where thousands of European immigrants arrived at the end of the 19th century and early 20th. Just nearby, the impressive stadium of Boca, club that is in the heart of “a half plus one” of the Argentines, according to the popular saying, the same stadium where Diego Maradona worked his magic moves. But this district is also artistic; art lives in each wall down the streets, like Caminito, where boquense painter Benito Quinquela Martín left his mark in the sheet metal and wooden houses.

Nowadays, this picturesque street is a must site for anybody visiting the area. Canteens, streets and museums, like Fundación Proa and Barro gallery are part of the landscape of this typical porteño district.

LA BOCA MUST SITES

5

Boca Jrs. stadium. It was inaugurated in 1940 and it is known as La Bombonera. It has a mural made by Quinquela Martín. Brandsen 805.

Puente Transbordador. This bridge is a symbol and one of the oldest bridges in the city. It was built in 1914. Av. P. de Mendoza and A. Brown.

Fundación Proa. An art center dedicated to the research and promotion of contemporary art. Av. P. de Mendoza 1929.

Museo Quinquela Martín. The painter donated his house, where his museum, a school and a theater run now. Av. P. de Mendoza 1835.

La Perla. It used to be a brothel and nowadays it’s a café. It’s located in one of the main corners in the district. Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1899.

31

66

ATTRACTIONS

Final abode. The vaults of Argentina’s national heroes in La Recoleta.

6 CATEDRAL METROPOLITANA M4 Since a chapel was first built here in 1580, six temples have been erected on this site until the present-day church was finally constructed. That same year, the first mass was celebrated with only one witness, the founder of the city of Buenos Aires, Juan de Garay. It has a classic architectonic style, so its columns and capitals resemble buildings such as the Parthenon and the Palais Bourbon. Here lay the remains of General José de San Martín, who is considered the “Father of the Nation”. Rivadavia 412. 4331-2845.

7 CEMENTERIO DE LA RECOLETA M5 This cemetery has been the final abode for historic national figures since 1822. Here, influential Argentine personalities are buried, such as Domingo Faustino Sarmiento and Eva Duarte de Perón, better known as “Evita”. Guided tours are offered on Sundays. On a walk around the inside, the incredibly meticulous work of important artists, who were commissioned to embellish the crypts with sculptures and vaults, can be appreciated.

Junín 1760. 4803-1594.

Perón’s vault. In 2006, Juan Domingo Perón’s coffin was taken to a weekend house in San Vicente, on the outskirts of the city.

ATTRACTIONS

Rose landscape. El Rosedal in Palermo and Av. del Libertador 8 CENTRO CULTURAL BORGES M4 Itinerant artwork exhibitions. Many works by artists like Picasso, Kahlo, Dalí, and Warhol, among others, have been displayed here.

Do not miss the murals decorating the dome of next-door Galerías Pacífico. Viamonte 500. 5555-5359. www.ccborges.org.ar CCK 9 M4 The old Central Post Office was transformed in 2015, into a more than 1,000,000 square feet cultural center. Exhibitions and free concerts. “La Ballena Azul” stands out, a concert hall for the National Symphonic Orchestra. There are two viewpoints next to the dome.

Sarmiento 151. www.cck.gob.ar 10 CENTRO CULTURAL RECOLETA M5 With its 23 exhibition halls, it is the heart of the avant-garde art in Buenos Aires, and also offers educational activities for children. It operates in the same place where the Franciscans monks erected their first constructions towards mid-18th century. Tuesday to Friday, from 1:30pm to 10pm; Saturdays and Sundays, from 11:30am to 10pm. Junín 1930. 4803-9799. www.centroculturalrecoleta.org Palais de Glace. It used to be a milonga very frequented by Carlos Gardel. Today it is a national cultural center. Posadas 1725.

67

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