Buenos Aires Complete Guide by de Dios Editores

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E D I T O R E S I give this guide of Buenos Aires to the memory of my grandparents Francisco Girodo, Pilar Uslé, Carmen de Dios and Ido Celery, who were born far from Buenos Aires and died “porteños”. Julián de Dios. Buenos Aires complete guide Copyright © 2008 de Dios Editores Buenos Aires / Argentina Author: Julián de Dios. Editor: María Virginia Salazar. Journalist research: Gabriel Magda, Pilar Mira, Ernestina Cáceres y Soledad Acuña. Layout: Sebastián Sánchez Iriarte y María Eugenia Greco. Translator: Patsy Mc Cormick. Image Processing: Francisco Quesada. Legal Counselling: Ignacio de las Carreras. Photographs: Julián de Dios. Other photos: Eduardo Longoni: 10a, 40a, 48b, 49a / Julia de Dios: 138a / Asociación A. de Polo: 10b / Teatro Colón: 10c / Subsecretaría de Turismo de la Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires: 11a, 82b, 215a / Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo: 13a, 202a, 209a / Galería Zurbarán: 15a / Tomo I: 18a / Million, Alejandro Guyot: 21a / Ciudad Cultural Konex: 22b, 134a / Notorious: 23a / Esquina Gardel: 24a, 131a / Faena Hotel: 24b / Ralph Lauren: 29a / Hotel Four Seasons: 30c / Hotel Sofitel: 31a / Casino Flotante: 41c / Casal de Catalunya: 87a / Museo Eva Perón: 110b, 217c / Archivo Fotográfico de la Nación: 114.

Buenos Aires complete guide I.S.B.N. 978-987-9445-44-0 First Edition - september 2008 Printed in Buenos Aires - Argentina Printed in COGTAL, Bs. As. - Argentina de Dios Editores. 131 Tacuarí - First floor “B” (1071) Buenos Aires - Argentina Tel. (54-11) 4334-0235 / 4342-0029 info@dediosonline.com www.dediosonline.com Special sales: For special copies, translations or wholesale purchases, contact to: ventascorporativas@dediosonline.com Rights reserved: The deposit required by Act. 11.723 has been made. The partial or total reproduction of the material contained in this publication is expressly prohibited. The editor shall not be accountable for errors or omissions of information contained in this publication or for the consequences thereof.

Editorial policy: In keeping with our editorial policy since 1993, the selection of places and the views published within are part of the independent journalistic opinions of the de Dios Editores team, and can’t be construed to be advertising of any sort.

de Dios, Julián Buenos Aires complete guide - 1a ed. - Buenos Aires : De Dios Editores, 2008. 256 p. : il. ; 20x14 cm. Traducido por: Patsy Mc Cormick ISBN 978-987-9445-44-0 1. Turismo-Buenos Aires. I. Patsy Mc Cormick, trad. II. Título Fecha de catalogación: 25/02/2008 CDD 338.479 1

CONTENTS 8 MUST-SEES OF BUENOS AIRES 10 Events 12 Museums 14 Art 16 Architecture 18 Restaurants 20 Bars 22 Entertainment 24 Tango 26 Night 28 Stores 30 Accommodation 32 Children 34 Perfect weekend

40 LA BOCA 42 Map of La Boca 44 Vuelta de Rocha 46 Caminito 48 Boca Juniors 52 Catalinas Sur 54 Barracas

56 PUERTO MADERO 58 Map of Puerto Madero 60 Costanera Sur District 64 Docks 1 and 2 District 66 Docks 3 and 4 District

70 SAN TELMO 72 Map of San Telmo 74 Lezama Park 78 Plaza Dorrego 84 Defensa District 90 Lower San Telmo In Buenos Aires, there is a 220 volt electric power system.

BUENOS AIRES COMPLETE GUIDE / CONTENTS

96 MONSERRAT 98 Map of Monserrat 100 Historic District 108 Alto Monserrat District 110 Plaza de Mayo District 116 Avenida de Mayo District 122 Congreso District

126 ABASTO 128 Map of Abasto 130 Abasto District 132 Zelaya District 134 Almagro District 136 Once District

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140 Map of Center 142 Corrientes Ave. District 146 Col贸n Theatre District 148 9 de Julio Ave. 150 Center District 152 Florida St. District 156 Nuevo Bajo District

160 Map of Retiro 162 Nuevo Bajo District 164 Plaza San Mart铆n District 168 Arroyo District

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158 RETIRO

170 RECOLETA

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172 Map of Recoleta 174 Posadas St. 176 Alvear Ave. District 182 Plaza Francia District 188 Recoleta Cemetery 190 Plaza Vicente L贸pez District 192 Santa Fe Ave. District 200 Barrio Norte District

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242 Belgrano and LasGCañitas ra 244Tres de Febrero Parkl. H or no 245 Costanera Norte s 246 Boedo I 37 Ru 39 sa yD 247 Mataderos be 13 lL íaz Jo aC Pl d ve M a e at lla ker at za Gu óli n he Az os ca 248zmUSEFUL DATA u a án ra 15 C. F Gar 248 Phone numbers . Me ibal di 10 lo 249 Getting around 11 250 Basic infoRuy 20 12 35 Dí 6 aminito P. Poliz C Av az a 7 16 . de J . D. Rg 9 5 Gu F ilibe Vuelta de 3 14 t MAPS o 18 zm rto .d d Rocha 8 e H án l Va 17 Clu e 4 T. 42 La Boca er l I P l b b e E 2 n e O a rluc 21 Boc Atlé sp a L tri nd a Ju tico 58 ea E oraPuerto Madero ci arí nior HU os a I r C s s a 72 San Telmo A l I a Pue 19 R Zol rto 98 Monserrat ezz de i Pal 128 Abasto os 25 23 M. 140 Center Rod rígu 160 Retiro Av. ez Alm 22 172 Recoleta iran Nec 24 te B och 204 Palermo row ea 27 n 222 Palermo Almirante Brown Av. Viejo 32 34 Mtr 29 o. B rin

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BUENOS AIRES COMPLETE GUIDE

ACCOMMODATION

5 gay friendly lodging 9 5 hostels in San Telmo y Monserrat 107 5 bed & Breakfast 229 5 boutique hotels 235

ARCHITECTURE

5 architectural nooks in La Boca 53 The last zarist bastion 77 Architecture on Paseo Colón 91 The Cabildo as seen over the years 114 The automatons of Plaza de Mayo 116 Palacio Barolo and The Divine Comedy 121 5 domes on Avenida de Mayo 123 Gaudi´s spirit haunting Buenos Aires 125 Historical houses 155 5 aristocratic palaces 165 París in Buenos Aires 176 An unfinished neoghotic piece 200

ART

La Boca: a painters quarter 51 The colourful Pasaje Lanín 54 5 outdoors sculptures 68 Filete porteño 132 Art galleries District 168 Palais de Glace 183 5 must-sees at MNBA 207 5 must-sees at Museo Decorativo 209 5 must-sees at Malba 211

SHOPPING

Fair at Plaza Dorrego 78 Defense of old relics 82 In Once: an enthraling labyrinth 136 Alvear avenue 180 5 outdoors fairs 187 Arenales District 190 Temptation along Santa Fe avenue 192 Strange new hairstyles 194 Bond Street Promenade 197 Córdoba Ave.: for the lovers of bargains 224 5 outlets in Villa Crespo 225 Young and exclusive designs 230 Avant garde fairs 238

EATING

5 dining experiences in La Boca 46 5 historic cafes in San Telmo 83 Closed doors restaurants 88 5 first class grills 89 5 basque restaurantes in Buenos Aires 109 5 classic Buenos Aires “pizzerías” 143 5 brunches at five star hotels 175 5 french restaurants 177 5 tea time 181 5 vegetarian restaurants 196 5 spots to sample “empanadas” 219 5 ethnic restaurants 237 5 restaurants specialised in fish 239

Farmacity and Vantage are some of the pharmacies’ chains open 24 hours.

HISTORY

TRIPS

The republic of La Boca 48 Fragata Sarmiento 67 5 must-sees items at Museo Histórico 74 Monuments with stories to tell 75 Twelve soothsayers with a history 81 Manzana de las Luces 101 Tunnels of Buenos Aires 104 The historic churches’ route 106 The “Madres de Plaza de Mayo” 111 Museo de la Casa Rosada 112

5 keys to moving round La Boca 41 Boca Jrs., passion of crowds 49 5 keys to moving round Puerto Madero 57 Costanera Sur Nature Reserve 60 A different take on Buenos Aires 61 5 perfect bike rides 63 A 21st. century tram 64 5 keys to moving round San Telmo 71 San Lorenzo Passage 92 5 keys to moving round Monserrat 97 Taking a ride on a historical tube 117 World Museum of Tango 118 5 keys to moving round Abasto 127 5 keys to moving round the center 139 5 must guided tours 147 5 keys to moving round Retiro 159 5 keys to moving round Recoleta 171 A classy final resting place 188 5 keys to moving round Palermo 203 Barrio Parque: for a select few 210 Palermo Parks 214 Villa Freud 218 5 keys to moving round Palermo Viejo 221 Plaza Costa Rica 228 Palermo Hollywood 236 5 must-sees at Belgrano 242 5 must-sees at Las Cañitas 243 5 must-sees at Tres de Febrero Park 244 5 must-sees at Costanera Norte 245 5 must-sees at Boedo 246 5 must-sees at Mataderos 247

NIGHT The electronic scene 62 Gay friendly Buenos Aires 86 Off-Corrientes theatre 134 Bars on Corrientes avenue 144 Tango calendar 150 5 happy hours 163 The scene in Recoleta 186 5 places to enjoy some jazz 199 5 “milongas” 227

IMPORTANT FIGURES Evita’ balcony 110 Luis XVII in Buenos Aires? 113 Nijinsky gets married in Buenos Aires 119 Saint-Exupéry in Buenos Aires 153 5 Borges’ Buenos Aires 201 5 must sites of Evitas’ life 217

Banks open to the public from monday to friday between 10 am and 15 pm.

10 MUST-SEES / NIGHT

MUSEUM

Perú 535 • (4771-9628).

PACHA Costanera Ave. and La Pampa • (4788-4280).

This popular Ibiza nightclub, is as much a historic spot as one of the most up to date in the city. In the electronic music setting, the scene gets going late at night and spreads over to morning, with a view of the river.

Its four floors are held within an old factory, designed by Gustav Eiffel. Before dancing, one may have dinner and watch a live performance. Later, a wide public crowds the dance-floors to the sound of retro, commercial dance and electronic music. On Wednesday, after office.

PODESTA

Armenia 1740 • (4832-2776).

In terms of stylish and trendy spots, Podestá has established itself as the paramount cocktail bar. Rotating dj's add their own touch through the music, from indie to retro, pop, rock.

THE ROXY

F. Lacroze Ave. and Alvarez Thomas Ave. • (4788-4280).

Two large dance floors where rock and pop from every decade blare away. Theme parties are a regular feature, like the ones at Club 69, as are live band performances.

BAHREIN

Lavalle 343 • (4779-1109).

CREAMFIELDS BUENOS AIRES www.cream.co.uk

Over 60,000 people attended the latest edition of this crowd-drawing rave. Each year the party moves to a spot of huge dimensions, where international dj's play inside the tents.

26 In Buenos Aires, nightclubs start filling up after 2 am. 02

Right in the heart of the city, where a bank used to stand, this nightclub opens its doors and offers the opportunity to dine, and later to get out on the two floors. Soul, funk, rock, pop and electronic gathered in one spot.

CONGO

Honduras 5329 • (4833-5857).

As much in the inner hall as in the garden, people gather in groups which, as the night goes by and drinks start to flow, become bold enough to approach one another. Ideal spot to visit with friends and meet new people. One may also go early and have dinner.

KIM & NOVAK

Godoy Cruz y Güemes • (4773-7521).

At this small bar, one may feast the eye through people watching: retro, trendy, dark looks... A human zoo of characters who gather to the sound of its eclectic music. Gay friendly.

PALERMO HOLLYWOOD

Between Juan B. Justo Ave., Paraguay, Ravignani and Niceto Vega Ave.

The bar and restaurant scene grew around the headquarters of a T.V. channel, several radios and production companies. This is why the area bears this artful name. Ideal spot for chance encounters with young actors and journalists. The meeting point is the Unico Bar.

NICETO CLUB

Niceto Vega Ave. 5510 • (4779-9396).

The music played at this nightclub varies according to the season and particular party thrown at the time. One may move to techno and dance music, but it also features reggae and pop bands as well as the best current dj's. Much glamour and trendy attitude at this Palermo classic.

OTHER OUSTANDING NIGHT SPOTS • The best beer 2x1 and foreign crowd. The Shamrock, Rodríguez Peña 1220. • Rock, pop and videoclips at an old house. El Living, Marcelo T. de Alvear 1540. • For electronic music lovers, with a river view. Mint, Costanera Norte Ave. and Sarmiento Ave. • Trendy meeting spot in the heart of Palermo. Unico, Honduras 5604. • French pop evenings and good drinks. La Cigale, 25 de Mayo 7220. • Kitsch aesthetics, old movies and strong spirits. Mundo Bizarro, 1222 Serrano. • Young crowds and good dancing music. Club Araoz, Aráoz 2424. • Electronic music mega nightclub. Crobar, Marcelino Freire n/n, Paseo de la Infanta. • The domains of reggaeton and tropical rhythms. Azúcar, Corrientes Ave. 3330. • A vip spot in the most exclusive part of town. Acqua Lounge Club, J. Manso 350.

On the internet one may sign up for discount lists or free tickets to get into nightclubs.

27 03

LA BOCA / CAMINITO Gardel y Maradona. Life-size sculptures decorate the conventillos' balconies overlooking Magallanes street. 11

GARIBALDI STREET

Magallanes and Garibaldi.

The neighbourhood's typical architecture can be viewed along these three blocks: metal sheet houses painted in strong colours that once served as “conventillos”. These were low rent tenements, where dwellers shared some facilities. The street is divided by an out of use railway line. 12

MAGALLANES STREET

Magallanes, between Garibaldi and Caminito.

“The artisans street”. The Centro Cultural de los Artistas (cultural center) preserves it's original construction dated 1881 and can be accessed through a typical “conventillo”. Fotographs and craftworks can be found at the Café de los Artistas and the Centro de Exposiciones Caminito showroom. 13

HOME OF JUAN DE DIOS FILIBERTO

Magallanes 1145.

This neglected house was home to Juan de Dios Filiberto for 32 years. He was one of the most prominent figures in La Boca and it was here where he wrote the tangos “Caminito”, “Quejas de bandoneón”, “Clavel del aire”... A mural by Benito Quinquela Martín decorates its' facade.

DINING EXPERIENCES IN LA BOCA

Patagonia Sur. Exclusive bistro. Owned by the prestigious chef Francis Mallmann (p. 45). El Obrero. Traditional “porteño” tavern. Grill and daily menus in bohemian setting (p. 53). Don Carlos. Opposite the Bombonera, “cantina” (typical canteen) run by its owner (p. 49). Banchero. Benito Quinquela Martín's favourite “pizzería” (p. 51). Il Matterello. Run by the Stagnaro family, this bistro is famous for its' rissotto and pasta (p. 51).

46 Celebrities known to have visited El Obrero tavern are Win Wenders and Bono, leader of U2. 04

“Filete porteño”. This popular decorative art which was born in the neighbourhood is still preserved in many facades on shops around the Caminito area.

EL SAMOVAR DE RASPUTIN ($$)

MUSEO CASA TALLER CELIA CHEVALIER

Del Valle Iberlucea 1251 • (4302-3190)

Irala 1162 • (4302-2337)

Spiritually bluesy and tango decorated. Over this bar and restaurant's stage passed local musicians including Pappo and Spinetta, and even international stars such as B.B. King who performed memorably.

This museum is set within the walls of a classic La Boca “conventillo”. It offers original immigrants' objects and photographs as well as paintings by Celia Chevallier depicting typical sites of the neighbourhood. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, 14 to 19. Guided tours.

The name “Caminito” reminds one of the famous tango by Juan de Dios Filiberto and Gabino Coria Peñaloza. In spite of the widespread belief that it was dedicated to the La Boca cul de sac, the tango refers to a mountain pass in the Argentine province of La Rioja.

CAMINITO

Caminito, between Magallanes and Lamadrid.

Originally a railway track, it fell into disuse in 1920 until two decades later, in 1959, Benito Quinquela Martín decided to transform the area into a promenade for residents. The brightly painted metal sheet houses bring to mind the painter's spirit. A colourful walkway, complete with tango street performances, living statues and artisans displaying their wares. The neighbouring shops offer a larger deal of Boca Juniors souvenirs. Director Cecilio Madanes' theatrical project of staging plays by W. Shakespeare, C. Goldoni, F. García Lorca and Moliere using the balconies and houses is still a lasting memory.

D. Tellechea, founder of the Museo de Cera, repaired Eva Peron's embalmed body.

47 05

PUERTO MADERO Today, Puerto Madero sinthetizes what is most modern in its vanguard towers, fashionable restaurants and five star hotels. But only 15 years ago the area was desolated and frequented only by the people related to port activity. In 1887, President Julio A. Roca was persuaded by the tradesman Eduardo Madero to have a port built in order to facilitate growing international commerce. Up to that moment almost a hundred projects had been offered, including one by engineer Luis Huergo proposing to build a harbour at the mouth of the Riachuelo. But it was Madero who realised his plan of a port that became one of the most active in the American Continent. Nevertheless, its' moment of glory was short lived since in the beginnings of the 20th century,

due to the increased bulk of the vessels, Puerto Madero became obsolete and Puerto Nuevo, used to this very day, had to be built. Slowly the area became more and more neglected and for almost a century closely resembled a ghost town.

In 1989, during President Carlos Menem's term in office, works for space recovery and the development of its 170 hectares were started. Soon cinemas, universities and restaurants were installed, the old silos were recycled to become luxury offices, many high-end hotels were opened and companies, including Repsol YPF and Mercedes Benz, made it their corporate headquarters. Puerto Madero is today the most expensive district in the city averaging over U$S 4,000 the square metre. It's growth is ongoing, with many projects which will add distinctive features to the city. Among these, English architect Norman Foster's stands out. This same architect was the one to design El Aleph, a 200 million dollar urban project; the floating mall on the Dock 2 waters belonging to the Hotel Faena and the eleven towers planned for the old grounds of the La Boca sport center.

KEYS TO MOVING ROUND PUERTO MADERO

Location. To the East of San Telmo and the city centre, skirting the RĂo de la Plata. Main arteries. Alicia Moreau de Justo Ave., O. Cossettini, Juana Manso, de los Italianos Ave. How to get there. Buses 130 and 152, and tram going from Independencia Ave. to CĂłrdoba Ave. Best time to visit. Daytime, to make the most of its' architecture. Neighbourhood corner. Pierina Dealessi and Macacha GĂźemes.

57 Puerto Madero is the youngest district and the one with the highest real estate value in the city. 07

PUERTO MADERO / DOCKS 3 & 4

PUENTE DE LA MUJER

Pierina Dealessi and Manuel Gorriti.

Placed on Dock 3, it connects both parts of Puerto Madero. It's the first work by Spanish architect and artist Santiago Calatrava in Latin America, built in 2001. It bears this name in connection with the neighbourhood streets, all alluding to women in Argentine history. The bridge, of abstract style is made up of two fixed stretches at either end and a rotating one in the middle, that turns on its axis to allow for the passage of vessels. According to Calatrava, the image represents the figure of a couple dancing tango. 21 HILTON HOTEL ($$$) Macacha Güemes Ave. 351 • (4891-0000) • www.buenos.hilton.com

Both the quietness of being located across the river and its' proximity to the city centre afford it all the comforts necessary for a stay. Modern and minimalist, it offers over 400 restful rooms.

22 EL FARO ($$$$) M. Güemes Ave. 351 • (4891-0000) (Hilton Hotel)

Sticking to the tastefulness and elegance of the hotel, it offers an executive lunch menu and a la carte dinner menu. Ranging from simple dishes such as turnover pies, scrambled eggs, potatoes and ham and “locro” (stew) to exotic meats like “llama” and “ñandú” (ostrich).

The Puente de la Mujer was donated by businessman Alberto Gonzalez, one of the Puerto Madero pioneers, who saw the need of joining both sides of the dyke with a unique project. At a cost of six million dollars in a few years Catalan artist Santiago Calatrava's piece became a symbol of Puerto Madero. 66 Till the 1990 decade, the part of the Buenos Aires port still operated in Puerto Madero. 08

23 TGI FRIDAY’S ($$) Alicia M. de Justo Ave. 1010 • (4342-6936).

If in search of the American way do not miss this fast food place. Sightly dishes such as nachos and melted cheese, breaded chicken sticks and a variety of warm sandwiches.

24 SPELL CAFE ($$) Alicia M. de Justo Ave. 740 • (4334-0512) • www.spell-cafe.com.ar

At this modern bar one can enjoy lunch on the terrace or spend some time in the midst of good music and the flow of people. Dj's play on weekends.

ASIA DE CUBA

O. Cossettini 751 • (4894-1328) • www.asiadecuba.com.ar

Exclusive disco of eastern decor and theme parties. On Tuesdays, 80's music and dinner for executives; on Wednesdays, sushi nights; on Thursdays, hip hop music; on Fridays and Saturdays, nightclub.

FRAGATA SARMIENTO Between 1899 and 1938 it was the Buque Escuela of the Argentine Army (military training ship), making thirty seven instruction trips. This frigate’s boards bear marks of the waters around the world: estimates say the distance it has travelled is commensurate with 42 trips around the globe. Historical characters such as Kaiser William II of Germany or Tzar Nicholas II of Russia visited its' facilities. It also took part of kings Edward VII of England and Alfonso XIII of Spain's coronations and shared in the festivities for the Canal of Panama's opening. It was madeover into a museum in 1961. Every day, 10 to 21. Dock 3 • (4334-9386) • www.ara.mil.ar

Puerto Madero is a new neighbourhood, inhabited by barely 7,000 people.

67 09

MONSERRAT / DE MAYO AVENUE

Luxury guest. In October 1933 Federico García Lorca stopped at the Castelar Hotel and remained for almost half a year.

PALACIO BAROLO

De Mayo Ave. 1370.

Walking down de Mayo avenue one must raise the eyes far enough to contemplate the dome where the 100 metres length of this beautiful building culminate, crowned by a searchlight. It was built by Italian architect Mario Palanti, commissioned by textile magnate Luis Barolo, and sought inspiration in The Divine Comedy, in honor of Dante Alighieri. It was considered the city's largest sky scraper until 1935. At its' inception it was meant as a dwelling for Barolo, all the way to the fourth floor, and rental flats to let. Today it houses offices.

72 CASTELAR HOTEL ($$$) De Mayo Ave. 1152 • (4383-5000 / 9) • www.castelarhotel.com.ar

When it opened, in 1929, it was one of the tallest and most luxurious buildings in the city. The original design was Mario Palanti's, also responsible for the Palacio Barolo, another unmissable piece on Avenida de Mayo. From its' beginings it was one of the favourite settings for intellectuals such as Oliverio Girondo, Norah Lange, Ramón Gómez de la Serna, Armando Discépolo and many others who attended the “peña” El Signo. After a recent restoration, the hotel regained its' splendour and offers all the services of a high end hotel, including a complete spa.

EL ESPEJO MAGICO

De Mayo Ave. 1320 • (4381-4657)

Toyshop specialising in models and lead soldiers collections, its' heaven to the child we carry inside. Its' owners bear the souls of collectors and may spend hours discussing their passion.

120 10

They assure us Mario Palanti's desire was to build a mausoleum for Dante Alighieri.

Café and billiard. This combination is typical of several bars in Buenos Aires. 74 LOS 36 BILLARES ($$) De Mayo Ave. 1265 • (4381-5696)

Even though it was remodelled, it keeps the same structure as in 1894, year of its' opening. Reknown for being the first local café with billiard tables. Its' walls bore mute witness to love stories, historic conversations and unforgettable friendships. The second hall, separated from the first by a wooden screen, lends itself to a game of craps. But the real secret lies in the basement: this is where the billiard tables spread out, where amateurs and pros may practice. A sign informs “daily, weekly and monthly technique courses, practice and theory of billiards in every specialty”. Perfect place to have coffee and milk with croissants, and then spend hours watching the cue and chalk artists, such as unforgettable Juan Navarra, world champion of billiards, who used to patronise these tables. 75

FORMER MAJESTIC HOTEL

76 CHILE HOTEL ($) De Mayo Ave. 1297 • (4381-6308)

De Mayo Ave. 1317.

This academic-style building, opened in 1909, was one of the most sumptuous hotels in town, that put up from Vaslav Nijinsky to architect Le Corbusier. Today its' used as an AFIP (Federal Tax Administration) office and in its' interior there are objects used by tax collectors on display.

Executed by French architect Jules Dubois, who created one of the most beautiful art nouveau buildings in town. Unfortunately, a fire destroyed its' dome, but it still retains all its' ornamentation. Stop to take in its' iron encrusted balconies and its' windows with garlands, spiralls and rosettes. It still operates as a hotel, but lacks the elegance of the old days.

COINCIDENCES BETWEEN PALACIO BAROLO AND THE DIVINE COMEDY Mario Palanti was a Dante Alighieri fan and at the Barolo created an architectonic cosmology reminiscent of The Divine Comedy. The building is organised in three parts: hell, purgatory and heaven, same as in the Dante's work; its' 100 metres height remind us of the 100 songs in the play. It has 22 floors, the same number of verses as most cantos in the book.

This area in de Mayo avenue was the focus for the cultural scene during the 30's.

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From Constitución train station till del Libertador Ave.

Due to its' 140 metres it's known as one of the widest avenues in the world. It was opened in 1937 and for its' landscaping, in the hands of Carlos Thays, 1,000 jacaranda, “ceibo” and cherry trees were planted, great part of them donated by Japan. 25

PANAMERICANO HOTEL ($$$)

Carlos Pellegrini 551 • (4348-5000) • www.panamericano.us

Almost all its' rooms have a spectacular panoramic view of the city. It is decorated in a classic English style. Some of the services offered by this high end hotel: jacuzzi, non smoking rooms and nanny.

26 TOMO I ($$$$) Carlos Pellegrini 521 • (4326-6698) • www.tomo1.com.ar

This exclusive restaurant, located on the mezzanine at the Panamericano Hotel, is considered by many, the best in Buenos Aires. Chef Ada Concaro's refined palate lends good taste and noble savour to sophisticated but readily adaptable creations. Don't miss the meat selection, including quail, pheasant or lamb. The wine carte is equally noticeworthy. Reservations required.

If an Argentine football team wins a local match or if the National Selection of this same sport becomes champion at some World Cup, every Argentine knows where to celebrate: at the Obelisco. It also serves as stage for multitudinous classical music or tango concerts, as well as other performing events, such as the one that took place for dancer Julio Bocca's farewell, in December 2007, when he put an end to his long and brilliant dancing career.

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On Sarmiento 1113, looking on the Obelisco, stands the Chalet Díaz, raised atop a building.

Plaza de la República. Earth from each of the Argentine provinces has been strewn here. 27

FLABELLA SHOES

Suipacha 263 • (4322-6036) • www.flabella.com

It's a firm that designs and sells handmade tango shoes. For this reason, daily production is twenty pairs, for ladies as well as for men. The store is located a few metres away from the Obeslico.

29 CENTRO ARTESANAL DEL TANGO

OBELISCO

Corrientes Ave. and 9 de Julio Ave.

With its' 67,5 metres of height it's city's symbol and crowns the centre of the great avenue. It was built in 1936 to remmemorate the fourth centennial of the city's first founding. It preserves the traditional style of this type of construction, Egiptian by origin, and on its' four faces phrases can be read about the city's two foundations, the designation of Buenos Aires as capital city, in 1880, and the first raising of the national flag, here, where the San Nicolás Church used to be. Inside, it has a staircase of 202 steps, by means of which one reaches the top. This part is reserved for maintenance tasks.

NH LATINO

Suipacha 309 • (4321-6700).

Part of the NH chain of hotels, it has the advantage of being located right in the middle of the business district, steps away from Florida pedestrian walk and metres from 9 de Julio Avenue. It offers every facility to business needs.

Suipacha 256 • (4326-5377) • www.suipacha256tango.com.ar

A few steps from the Obelisco. This shop offers tango shoes and clothing. More than 50 shoe models the customer may choose from, with custom details.

CHIQUIN

Perón 920 • (4394-5004).

Dinner and Argentine music show. Wednesday to Saturday, from 21, featuring the José Marconi Orchestra, two live singers and four folk dance couples. Preceded by a pasta or grill based meal. A really typical nook tucked away in Buenos Aires.

On 9 de Julio avenue stand many sculptures, such as the Democracy Monument, by Gyula Kosice (9 de Julio Ave. and Marcelo T. de Alvear) and the fountains in the intersections with Córdoba Ave. and de Mayo Ave. Under the Obelisco stretches a subterranean passage with many old shops.

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