A livelihood Project with Asian Heritage Foundation, India on Kotpad Handloom Weaving of Odisha. by Deepa

Kotpad Handloom Weaving Koraput District | Odisha State | India

Deepa Verma | AHF A livelihood Project with Asian Heritage Foundation

ÂŠ Asian Heritage foundation. Delhi, India. Consolidated Workshop Reports document for private circulation only. All rights reserved. Deepe Verma Textile and Fashion Designer Email: sriandeepa@gmail.com No part of this document will be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means including photocopying, xerography, photography and videography recording without written permission from Asian Heritage Foundation. Processed atAsian Heritage Foundation (AHF) C-52, South Extension Part-II New Delhi-110049 Delhi, India.

A livelihood Project with Asian Heritage Foundation. A WB (World Bank) – JSDF (Japan Social Development Fund) supported the project to AHF of‘Creating Inclusive Business Models for Marginalized Tribal Communities in Odisha, Madhya Pradesh and Jharkhand’. The project, entitled AHF- Jiyo, which is working towards making globalization work for the Rural Poor in South Asia. The design-led project aimed to promote, revive and enhance the enchanting & age-old rustic-charm of Kotpad Tribal Weaves of Odisha, by training and equipping the artisans with design as a tool that enhances their skills. And, then engaging them in product development to amplify and strengthen the craft from the production base and improve its competitiveness, trigger growth, and attain economies of scale.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Asian Heritage Foundation Asian Heritage Foundation is a non-profit, non-governmental organization with concerns encompassing the cultures, traditions, public affairs, arts and sciences of all regions of Asia, especially South Asia (Afghanistan,Pakistan, India, Nepal, Bhutan, Bangladesh, Myanmar, Sri Lanka and Maldives).

Asian Heritage Foundation, New Delhi, India.

A Not for Profit Non Governmental Organisation.

A not for profit, non- government organisation, The Asian Heritage Foundation is invested in contemporary dialogues pertaining to clusters, traditions, public affairs ,arts and sciences of all regions of Asia. Its programmes span research & documentation, training & transmission, promotion & conservation of the continentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s diverse heritage resources. It seeks civic society participation in a movement towards a modern continent, serving international collaboration with cross-cultural dialogue. It is invested in projects that reconcile frictions between people, technology and nature, between the old and the new, the East and West - through cultural production and services.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Preface This document is a compilation of three workshop reports, which was conducted from Jan-June 2017, in Koraput District of Odisha on Kotpad Weaves. The workshop was conducted with the ‘Tantis’ community of Dongriguda town and with ‘Mirgan’ community of Kotpad town. During these workshops, 23 master-artisan, 15 semi-skilled artisans and 34 unskilled artisans were trained. Overall 71 artisans were trained, of which 34 were women and 37 were men. In total 27 prototypes were developed during these workshops. The SKUs of prototype development includes 16 Stoles/ Dupattas, 4 engineered ensembles and 4 minimal designs garments from leftover fabric.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

CONTENTS 1. Map of Koraput District, Odisha. 2. Place and People. 3. About the Craft. 4. Artisans Categorisation. 5. Summary of previous Workshops. 6. Swot Analysis. 7. Workshop 1/2/3 Reports Workshop Objectives. Design Possibilities. Motif Exploration. Design Exploration. Photos From Workshop. Products from Workshop. Costing & Specification Sheet. Budget Details. Proposal for the forthcoming Workshops. Summary. 8. List Of Contact Channels.

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Map of the Culster Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha, India.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Workshops Objectives Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha.

SKILL ENHANCEMENT

CAPACITY BUILDING FOR WEAVERS

• Encourage weavers to express their ideas on fabric through their craft. • Skill assessment through various design exercises on paper and on the loom and en-cash on that to produce samples. • Get to know the strength of every participant and Confidence building.

• Explorations experimenting with new motifs, stemming from the weavers themselves. • Design intervene/ consciousness the steaming of the craft. • Equip the artisans with the visual treat of design. • Introduction of various product ranges in detail. • Aware them the current market scenario. • Teach them to calculate the costing and pricing of any products. • Focus on Jani and Jiva (Product range).

ORGANIZATIONAL DEVELOPMENTS

DESIGN DEVELOPMENTS • Introduction of new raw materials to the craft and other natural dyes. • Various product ranges. • Designs for Jiyo.

• Urge the participants to stick on and continue developments towards suggested directions. • Have ready a list of profiles of the persons involved in the cluster with their contact details for ease in conducting future workshops. • Set-up a cluster with all required supply-chain tools & facilities. • Self-sustenance to participate in any inter-city, state or national level exhibitions. • Appoint a cluster coordinator to look after smooth running of cluster. • Market linkages.

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People and Place Kotpad Handloom Weaving Koraput District, Odisha.

The Region, Kotpad Kotpad is a Medium size town located in Kotpad Tehsil in Koraput District of Odisha State, with total 362 families residing. It is located 63 Km towards west from District head quarters Koraput. It is a Tehsil head quarter. Demographic As of 2011 India Census, Kotpad Block had a population of 16,326 and Kotpad town has a population of 1466 of which 705 are males, and 761 are females. Males constitute 49% of the population and females 51%. Kotpad had an average literacy rate of 46.68, lower than the national average of 59.5% and compared to 78.87 % of Odisha: male literacy stands at 61.15%, and female literacy is 33.39%. Cast Factor In Kotpad town, most of the village Population is from Schedule Tribe (ST). Schedule Tribe (ST) Constitutes 68.89% while Schedule Caste (SC) was 11.94% of total Population of Kotpad village. Distance from Major Cities Jeypore- 44 Km, Bhuneshwar-170 km, and Vizag- 300 km.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Geographical location and Climate Koraput district is located at a height ranging from 76m to 1672m from the sea level. The annual average rainfall of the Koraput district is around 1,521.8 mm and 1809.0 mm of block Kotpad. The climatic condition of the region is warm and humid. Average annual rainfall of the district is 1567 mm. Mean Maximum summer temperature is 34.1 C and Mean Minimum Winter temperature is 10.4 C. Travel and stay Kotpad is 72km away from district head-quarter, Koraput. Kotpad is a small town and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a hotel to stay. One can stay in DRDA Guest House of Koraput but have to travel 72 Km to reach the town via car. Jeypore is well-developed city and its 44km form Kotpad with many hotels to stay. How to reach, Kotpad/ Jeypore There is no railway station near to Kotpad in less than 10 km. However, Vishakapatnam Railway Station is major railway station to reach Jeypore. One can travel to Vizag, (there are direct flights and trains available to Vizag, AP) and travel 204 Km via car/train to reach Koraput + 23 Km to reach Jeypore. There are two direct trains between JEYPORE (JYP) and VISAKHAPATNAM (VSKP).

New Delhi

Koraput Vishakapatnam

Fig: Travel Route from Delhi to Koraput Via Vishakapatnam. Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

About The Craft Kotpad Handloom Weaving Koraput District, Odisha.

If India, has to be described by, one of the greatest and classical skills of hand, weaving is the most evocative symbol. Odisha has one the richest tradition of Handloom, in India. An unstitched classic, Kotpad Handloom weaving in Koraput district of Odisha is an age-old tradition of ‘Mirgan’ community of tribal of Kotpad district, famous for its exquisite organic-dyed rustic charm textile.

Craft tradition

The tradition of Koraput Tribal weave ‘Mirgan community’ who used to we used to weave saris which were narro heavy thick unbleached cotton with a purple or brown. The yarn was dyed w Aal (Madder tree).

These fabrics developed reflects the cultural heritage of the tribal of Odisha as a customary. These textiles are very comfortable to wear during summer and winter. Kotpad handloom fabric is the first only product from Odisha that received the Geographical Indication, in 2005. *(A geograph-

Koraput weaves are still made using dyeing. There has been no change in used for weaving.

ical indication (GI) is a sign used on products that have a specific geographical

The Kotpad Handloom weaving takes Dongriguda, Batasona, and Bansuli. age-old techniques of weaving and used for wearing in Dongriguda whil nology in Kotpad; pit looms continue

origin and possess qualities or a reputation that are due to that origin.)

The distinctive feature of a Kotpad weaving includes naturally dyed yarns, a simple two different color solid bold Pata borders know as Ganga-Jamuna woven in three shuttles, woven with a various small to medium sized nature and conventional inspired extra-weft patterning motifs. The geometric designs are interspersed all over the sari/stoles worked with thick plied yarns.

e started with the few tribal people of eave their clothes. Traditionally, they ower than the existing saris, made of a single color pattern created in red, with natural dye made of the roots of

g age-old techniques of weaving and n technology; pit looms continue to be

s place in nearby four villages namely Koraput weaves are still made using dyeing in Kotpad. Frame looms are le there has been no change in teche to be used for weaving.

People and community, Mirgan Street. Mirgan street is named after the weaver, and the organic-dyer community knows as Mirgan. The Mirgan community is Hindus and followers of Sant. Kabir. Locally, it has been said that the use of the Mirgan cloth prevents one from skin diseases; keeps one warm during cold and one can feel cool in summer and look smart. Therefore, the Mirgan cloth is soft and comfortable to wear and also suit all climates. The Mirgan community of Kotpad is famous for their exquisite organic dyed textile. They usually weave this textile for “Bhotada”, “Dharua” and other motifs of their neighboring tribal communities. The Mirgan community is religiously Hindus and is also followers of Sant Kabir. The Mirgan community has surname such as Samrath, Panika, Mahanto, Sira, Devang, Pegal, Bhandari, Kamali and Nike.

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women

Dyeing of yarn is only done by women of Kotpad. It takes about 15 to 22 days for processing the color and dyeing the threads into different colors. The primary color extracted is maroon and black.

men

The men who practice weaving are locally known as â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Bunker.â&#x20AC;&#x2122; The men are involved from the pre-process of setting up the loom till marketing of the end product to the other tribes or the market. Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Material and Tools Traditionally, these fabrics were produced by the naturally dyed, heavythick and unbleached cotton yarn. The materials used for the textile products are cotton yarn / Tusser, “Aal” tree root, Mineral, etc. The fabric is woven on the basic pit-loom with two Heddles, and the Dents of Reed are made from a natural material called ‘Seekh.’

Bunkers setting up the loom. Kotpad Block, Koraput District, Odisha.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Tools Tools of Primitive Pit-looms (through shuttle loom).

Bharani The Bharani is a wooden frame. The yarn reel is fitted on this frame, and then single threads are rolled on the Tossar. It helps individual strands of the yarn to separate from each other.

Tossar This is a long wooden stick with a circular head. The yarn from the Bharani is wrapped on the Tossar so that it can be put in the shuttle.

Pawan/ Warping Bo This a wooden fra rate cotton yarn a be fitted in the war which is used to m that will be held un weaving.

oard ame used to sepaand prepare it to rp. This is a device measure the thread nder tension during

Purni Purni is a hollow cylindrical pipe made out of bamboo. It is used to arrange the yarn on the Pawan from the Bharni for warping.

Natai The Natai is a wooden frame. The yarn reel is fitted on this, and then single threads are rolled on the Tossar. It helps individual threads of the yarn to separate from each other.

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Medaki Medaki is a shaped wooden block. It is used to hold the warp beam rope and helps to pull and tighten the warp yarn as per the progress of cloth.

Chipana These are flat wooden sticks, which are parted from the center like tongs. They are used to hold the combed yarn together and prevent it from tangling.

Dongi/ Shuttle The shuttle is a bo containing a supply a spool. It travels from one side of the propelled either by or by a mechanic are two types of sh weaving: *Smaller shuttle for *Bigger shuttle for body of the saree.

oat-shaped device y of weft thread on through the shed e loom to the other, the weaverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hand cal fly arm. There huttles used for this

Bhandi It is made from wood and used to rap the woven fabric and maintain the warp tension.

Jivi khuta, Adsra khuta Both are made up of a wooden block which is placed at the end of the cloth roll. It helps to turn the cloth beam and fix the cloth roll.

r borders. weaving the whole

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Mahadev khuta It is a pole from where the warp yarn is tied by a rope to balance the tension of warp yarn while weaving in progression.

Haatha Made of wooden and holds the reed. It also helps to beat up the warp-weft interaction on the fabric.

Kangi/ Comb It is the comb throu passes.

ugh which the warp

Heddles A wood log that holds the yarn-head/ Heddles in position in the loom during weaving.

Nathi / Spindle It is a conical wooden frame, which is motioned in circles to wrap the separated threads of the yarn.

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Manghta (Pit Loom) Suspended Reed- Revolving Cloth Beam - more perfec The pit loom is a horizontal, ground â&#x20AC;&#x201C; staked Handloo floor level. This type of loom saves space and lumber a today.Ref Image : Kissell, Mary Lois (2017, June) TEXTILE INDUSTRY SPIN bookimages/14804855223/]

ct Harness worked by treddles. om at which the weaver sits in a pit dug below and is typical of most village production in India

NNING WEAVING [https://www.flickr.com/photos/internetarchive-

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खूबसूरती से गाया मास्टर बिद्याधर महंतो जी ने।

दीवाना बन्दे... दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी। दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी। भरनी

दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी। दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी।

o ंींठाईय।

फर-फर भरनी ककींड्रे, किपत चले ंीं ठाईय। फर-फर भरनी ककींड्रे, किपत चले ंीं ठाईय।

कुमी-ड्ींड्ा

खिली-कुटी पर दरबार बैठे, कुमी-ड्ीं ड्ा खिलाई। दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी। दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी।

हाथन

थरकट-थरकट हाथन बजे, भाीं ड्ी गई सप्ताईए। भाींड्ी

थरकट-थरकट हाथन बजे, भाीं ड्ी गई सप्ताईए। सला-साल पर ड्ोींगनी बरसे, नाचनी-नाच कराई।

ड्ोींगनी

दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी। दीवाना बन्दे कोई नहीीं मेरा साथी।

नाचनी

- कविता द्वारा संत कबीरदास Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Shuttle 1

Method Of Wearing

The weaving process involves both hand and feet and is rigorous and time consuming. Kotpad hand-loom weaving uses, a three-shuttle pit-loom interlocking patterning and the motif is developed manually by the technique of discontinuous extra-weft patterning.

Weft Extra-Weft

Shuttle 2

Shuttle 3

3-shuttle Interlocking

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Color Making Process The coarse yarn is treated with dung, wood ash and castor oil in an elaborate and laborious process which takes up to a month. Despite the use of castor oil there is no shine or smell. Instead the cloth becomes soft and the colours are lustrous and fast. The yarn is dyed with the reddish tinge of the roots of the Indian Madder (‘Aal’ or Morinda Citrifolia) tree. The colour palette ranges from deep maroon to dark brown which is obtained depending upon the ageing of the ‘Aal’ and the way the dye is processed (under the sun, in clay pots etc.). Kotpad is one of the last remaining textile traditions of India which still uses only natural dyes. Since, it is prepared out of natural resources which are non-toxic and hence non-harmful to the skin. Even though it is only a limited colour range, it is eco-friendly and shades developed are very suiting and pleasant. The powerful and vibrant colours ranging from deep maroon to dark brown depend on the age of the root bark and the proportion of the dye used and is obtained with the addition of Harikari or Sulphate of iron. These colours combined with the natural unbleached off-white colour of the yarn produce dramatic results.

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Color Making Process Ref (Process in detail) : Swadeshi (2016, June 15) KORAPUT WEAVING. [https://www.swadesi.com/ news/2016/06/15/koraput-weaving/]

Raw-Material • Kumahar pathar / Iron or loha pathar, is sulphate of iron. This is locally available as waste with any blacksmith. The blacksmith gives the weavers kumahar patharin exchange for some goods or a little money. Kumahar pathar is crushed and brought to powder form by using this wooden grinder that is operated by foot. • Castor oil • Wood ash, is used during the dyeing process of the cotton yarn. • Cow dung, is used while dyeing the cotton yarn. It acts as a bleaching agent. When applied to the yarn, it ensures that the dye is absorbed properly. • Tora oil, it is used in the kangi. It acts as a lubricant for the yarn on the loom. • Starch, is applied on the yarn when it is stretched out before setting it on the loom. This is done to provide strength to the yarn and prevent it from breaking and tangling. Starch is made from flour and water

Process (in detail) The process of dyeing is very tedious. most suitable time for dying is from requirement for dyeing is sunlight, w completed.

Castor oil is applied to the washed ya 5-6 liters of normal water is made. Th the solution or the solution is applied hand is more effective, as the oil spre

For dyeing the yarn to a deep maroo 100 grams of castor oil, 1/2 kg pow warm water. The yarn is immersed in the yarn along with the solution is pu

This is stirred continuously with a wo solution dries up. The powerful and maroon to dark brown depend on th portion of dye used.

. Dyeing is done mostly in winter. The m November to March. The foremost without which the process cannot be

arn. A solution of 5 liters castor oil and hereafter, the yarn is either dipped in d by hand to the yarn. Applying oil by eads evenly.

on color, a solution is prepared with wder of aal bark and 5 liters of luken this solution for a day. The next day, ut to boil.

ooden stick and boiled till the entire d vibrant colours ranging from deep he age of the root bark and the pro-

To dye the yarn in shades of brown, kumahar pathar is used. The stone is crushed and powdered. This powder is then mixed with jaggery and water and put aside for 4-5 days till the solution becomes black. Thereafter, this solution is mixed with the ingredients used earlier for deep maroon color i.e. 100 grams of castor oil, 1/2 kg powder of aal bark and 5 liters of luke-warm water. The yarn is boiled in this solution with continuous stirring, till the entire solution dries up. After the dyeing is completed, yarn is left in the sun to dry. The dyeing process is done by women. In brief • The roots of Aal tree are crushed and grinned into powder. • The yarns are washed and then dipped in cow dung and castor oil and left for a few days. • It is then washed off and the colour of the yarn becomes o- white. • The root of the Aal tree tapped till a powder is retrieved which is then boiled in water. • The yarns then boiled in the Aal mixture takes in the deep red colour. • When iron ore is added in the same mixture the yarn turns into a deep brown colour.

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Raw Material and Costing Parga Community (ST community, tribes of the Kalahandi jungles) procure the Aal Roots form forest and sell it to the Dombo community (generally SC community people). The Dombo community acts as middle-man and sells the Aal tree roots to Mirgan community of Kotpad.

Which costs, 1 Peti (Carton) contai

The Gray fabric/ raw-material are procured from local vendor Muslimji. Muslimji source materials from Bargarh, Odisha. The silk/ raw-silk is sourced from Jagdalpur (Rayagada District).

1 Kandi/ Hank= 840 Yards (770 m They consider 40 yards in wastage 1 Kandi/ Hank= 800 Yards (720 m

Cotton yarn is also purchased from Sambalpur District, Orissa. The number of Muda (rolls) of yarn in one peti depends on the count: 20 rolls of yarn of a 20s count, 40 rolls of a 80s count and 30 rolls of a 60s count.

1 Bundle = 20 Mutha (Approx. 5 K 2 Mutha = 1 Sara (For 20s) 4 Mutha = 1 Sara (For 2/80s and

Tussar silk yarn is used. Silk yarn can be purchased from Jagdalpur, Rayagada District, and Orissa and Sambalpur District, Orissa. Currently, they use untwisted and unbleached 20s cotton. Untwisted and unbleached cotton in Tana (warp). Twisted/untwisted cotton in Bana (weft).

10 Kgs of Aal root = Rs. 1400. Grinding = Rs. 10 per Kgs.

( In local Language of Lachi is called S

1 Mutha = 200-250 gm 1 Mutha = 10 Kandi.

Pricing 20s Cotton untwisted.

ins 1 Bundle = 4.5 Kgs of 20s Cotton.

m). e. So, Finally the keep standard, m).

1 Sara of WHITE = Costs Rs. 100. 1 Sara of Cotton dyed RED = Costs Rs. 500. 1 Sara of Cotton dyed BROWN = Costs Rs. 600. 2/80s and 2/100s Cotton twisted Mercerised Cotton.

Kgs)

d 2/100s)

Sara.)

1 Sara of WHITE = Costs Rs. 300. 1 Sara of Cotton dyed RED = Costs Rs. 750. 1 Sara of Cotton dyed BROWN = Costs Rs. 850.

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Iconographies, Products Range and Pricing Motifs and Border The trademark motifs are drawn from nature (like leaf, hut, crabs, fish, conch, etc.) and immediate cultural spaces (boat, fan, axes, bow, temple, etc.) which reflect the cross-cultural linkages, of the areas and a distinctly different temple border. Products range The most important and attractive textile products produced by this community are - Saris and Shaw etc. Sari’s, Dhotis, Towels, Stoles, and Duppats are made and worn by the tribal themselves and sold to the other local tribes Pricing Products range from INR 500 - INR 10,000, available depending on the product, color, quality, no. of the motif, intricacy of motifs of the woven fabric. Yardages - INR 120 to 400 Cotton Sari’s - INR 1,500 to 10,000 Cotton-Silk Sari’s - INR 2,500 to 12,000 Cotton Table-Cover - INR 500 to 1,200 Cotton stoles/ Scarves/ Duppatas - INR 450 to 1000

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Marketing Avenues and Current Scenario of the craft. Since ages, these fabrics were used as a customary bridal fabric and reflected the cultural heritage of the tribes, of Odisha. Earlier artisans only made Factual, a traditional dress with tribal motifs and short length traditional Saris. As the demand for Koraput weaving grew, the product range expanded to dress material, full-length Saris, Duppats, etc. now short kurtas of Koraput weave are also available in the market. Many weavers in this village have now turned into traders and their biggest market are the local tribal communities such as “Dharua”, “Bhotada” and “Bisoi” communities of Odisha and bordering Chhatisgarh area use the traditional Mirgan cloth with highlights of their respective motifs during “Dasahara”, “Nuakhai” and other festive occasions. Boyanika is one of their leading clients. KOTPAD WEAVER CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY (WCS) KOTPAD WCS was established in the year 1956 which is situated in Kotpad, Koraput District of southern Odisha. But since many years its inactive. Other occupation Since it is a time-consuming activity without commensurate pay, many people are shifting from weaving to other occupations. Changing sce-

nario has changed the profession of also engaged in selling groceries, c Agricultural Labourer.

The young generation especially men ing their livelihood from the trendy in and repair shops, and other services. dying as it is time-consuming and mo ing, store-attender, etc.

Current Scenario The most important aspect of these te in it. The textile products are also in h and abroad. But there are only fourte tice the traditional tribal craft of Kotp there are eleven National Awarder fo

Earning stats Earning from weaving/ Weaver’s hou Approx. INR 6,000 - INR 8,000 per M

individuals. Besides weaving, people cultivation (owner or co-worker) and

n are interested in learning and earnndustrialized jobs like driving, mobile . The young girls are moving on from oving on to jobs like a parlour, tailor-

extile products is the organic dye used high demand both inside the country een masters Weaver left who still pracpad weaving in Mirgan street, in that orm Kotpad.

usehold income: Month.

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Artisans Categorisation Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha. Wages as per ORMAS Wage = INR 300 Breakfast = INR 30 Lunch = INR 50 Snacks = INR 20 Dinner = INR 50 -----------------------Total = INR 450 ------------------------

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Summery of Previous Workshops Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha.

According to the two report submitted by Saumya Nagar: Two Workshops were conducted at Kotpad, Ko 1. Workshop 1: 21st - 27th February 2016. • A visual presentation was delivered to give the artisans an insight on the artwork and textiles of the world, followed by pep-talk on motifs, inspirations, etc. • A brief session on the importance of planning and sketching the designs before starting to weave followed by an exercise on sketching. • Along with the two designs, a basic format of a costing sheet was distributed, to an individual weaver. • The first level focused only on introducing a new aesthetic.

2. Workshop 2: 22nd - 23rd June 20 • Various permutation and the com incorporated into the designs of K • An interactive session with the w yarns and dying the new fibres th products. • Development of swatches by inser was introduced. • The women of the village were tra top of the products for value addi • The participated weavers were ta the new development (to encoura • The weavers were instructed to ma which was about to be discussed

Sariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Design Developed by Saumya Nagar.

oraput district.

016. mbination of colors that could be Kotpad weaving were discussed. weavers, on incorporating new hat can be introduced into their

rting the Dokra beads in weaving

ained to work with needlework on ition to finish the products. aught sketching and planning for age them to create their designs). ake at least 5-8 new design plans, in the forthcoming workshops.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

In Brief about the Craft Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha.

Count 20s, 40s, 60s Non-Mercerised Cotton. 2/80s Mercerised (only in weft) and

Tussar silk (only in weft).

Type

Primitive Pit-looms (through shuttle loom) in Kotpad and Frame Looms in Dongriguda.

Colors Skills

Natural Dyeing (Vegetable & Mineral), Three shuttle and Discontinuous Extra- weft patterning.

Aesthetic/USP The specialty of Kotpad Handloom is that the yarns are dyed naturally with the dyes made up from the roots of Aal (Madder tree), processed in a way to form two shades of red and played with off-white, while weaving. Stole/Sariâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s with different color border woven in 3 shuttles are known as Ganga-Jamna chunni/sari.

Women of Mirgan Community wearing Kotpad Handloom sari. otpad Block, Koraput District, Odisha Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Strengths

• The age-old tradition of tribes of Kotpad, famous for its rustic charm. • Kotpad vegetable and Mineral dyed fabric are registered as GI. • Three-shuttle interlocking patterning. • The motif is developed manually by extra-weft patterning. • Since ages, these fabrics were used as bridal fabric by the tribal communities. • Universal motifs reflect the cross-cultural linkages of the area. • The yarn is dyed locally with the roots of Aal (Madder tree), processed in a way to form two shades of red. • The iconographies reflect the evolution of their culture. • Work carried out from home.

Weaknesses

• Only two tonal colors and off-white color is used till now. • Only the 20s and 40s cotton are being used. The products are heavy because of the thicker cotton count. • The iconographies have been replicated since ages. So all the products look similar. • Only few product ranges are being produced like saris and bedsheets. • Pit-loom is an age-old and space occupying loom. • Very Motif-centric placements of the motifs, overall/ jaal/ elaborated motif patterning, is less seen. • Raw materials are sourced from Chhattisgarh. • Time-consuming craft with low-yield and slow completion.

Opportunities • A new products line could be introduced apart from the saris; Unstitched- Scarf, Stoles, Dupatta and Saris. Home ranges- Cushion sets, Curtains, Bedsheets and Towels. Table Linen- Table Cloth, Runner, Placemat and napkins. Kitchen Linen (Organic dyes- excellent for kitchen Market). Apparel A-Line dresses, skirts, Tunic, Poncho. • To involve women in the basic stitching of the new products line, finishing, and packaging of the products. • Tussar could be introduced for a new aesthetics and also to reduce the weight of the fabric. • Presently, the 20s and 40s cotton are used. To reduce the density/ weight of the fabric 60s, 80s 100s cotton could be introduced for better yarn quality. • New Iconographies could be introduced to bring a new look. • Exclusive handwoven fabrics have a good domestic market. • WSC is inactive for many years. Need revival and new market linkages. • Scoping followed by the possibility of introducing new natural dyes.

Threats • Competition from the power looms. • Artisans are moving to the other industrial occupation. • Youth don’t want to get engaged in this craft because of low wages and time-consuming. • Competition of the similar product from the other states.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Workshop 1 Report

Scoping Visit (SV), Training of Trainers (ToT) and Design Development Workshop (DD). Date: 19th - 26th March 2017. Venue : Mirgan Street, Kotpad.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Map of Workshop Venue (Mirgan Street), STATE Odisha

DISTRICT Koraput

BLOCK Kotpad

(109 Villages)

TEHSIL Kotpad

TOWN Kotpad

STREET Mirgan Street Pin-764058

Odisha.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Workshop 1 Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha. Workshop type

Date Duration Venue Product Range

Scoping Visit (SV) Training of Trainers (ToT) and Design Development Workshop (DD). 19th - 26th March 2017. 8 days. Mirgan Street - Kotpad Block - Koraput District, Odisha. Phase 1- Unstitched range - Stoles.

Design Intervene

Reduce weight of Fabric. Introducing 80s and 100s Cotton into weft. Retouching the of existing iconographies.

Product category

Jani/ Jiva.

Participants

Jagbandhu Samrath

Bolibadra Samrath

Khagpati Panika

Bidhyadhar Mahanto

Bansidhar

r Samrath

Meenketan Sira

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

se 1 Pha ORGANIC

Natural Dyeing *

SUMMERY CELEBRATION HANDICRAFT

Design Possibilities

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ade Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Motifs Exploration

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Explorations, Product- Stole.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Explorations, Product- Stole.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Sampling Design Development in process.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Product - Stole, developed during the workshop.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Product - Stole, developed during the workshop.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

CADs of stoles developed during the workshop.

These designs were developed, as a part of scoping visit and skill level identification of the artisans. As a elements were added, a difference in number and size of butis. The CADs were manipulated, due to the

a results, the design developed may vary from the CADs in terms of stole size, some extra design e availability of ready reeds, time-constraint, etc.. Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Prototypes Costing &

& Specifications Sheet

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Stole 01

Bolibadra Samrath

Meenketan Sira

PRODUCT: STOLE 01 Dimensions

28.5” × 92”

EPI X PPI

30 × 42

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

30s

28 Ends - Kora-White 14 Ends - Brick-Red 785 Ends- Kora-White 14 Ends - Brick-Red 28 Ends - Kora-White

3676 Picks - Kora-White 88 Picks - Brick-Red 100 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 8 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

97.3

10034

20s

2051

14.15

2/80s

7983

83.15

Brick-Red

7.43

261.3

20s

73.15

2.5

2/80s

127.4

3.31

2/80s

60.75

1.62

Brown

4.27

144.8

2/80s

144.8

4.27

109

10440

2024

16.65

8255

90.73

60.75

1.62

Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 109 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 04

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 350/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 01

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 200/Total weaving cost = Rs. 1709/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 170.9/-

Total Sampling Cost of the Product = Rs. 1880/-

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Stole 02

Khagpati Panika

PRODUCT: STOLE 02 Dimensions

32.2” × 98”

EPI X PPI

40 × 50

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

20s

994 Ends - Brick-Red 294 Ends - Brown

4464 Picks - Brick-Red 436 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 8 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Brick-Red

280

9898

20’s

Brown

51.5

1276

20s

Color Kora-White

Total

331.5 11174

Cost Yarn

Weft Ply m

Cost Yarn -

Extra-Weft Ply m -

Cost

2596

2/80’s

7302

190

782

32.6

20s

357

14.86

20’s

137

4.04

3378

122.6

7659

204.8

137

4.04

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 332 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 04

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 350/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 01

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 200/Total weaving cost = Rs. 1932/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 193/-

Total Sampling Cost of the Product = Rs. 2125/-

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Stole 03

Bansidhar Samrath

PRODUCT: STOLE 03 Dimensions

26.5” × 85.5”

EPI X PPI

28 × 50

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

28s

50 Ends - Brick-Red 644 Ends - Kora-White 50 Ends - Brick-Red

3340 Picks - Kora-White 645 Picks - Brick-Red 290 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 8 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

80.25

8208

20s

Brick-Red

33.78

1213

Brown

16.67

565

130.7

9986

Color Kora-White

Total

Warp Ply m

Cost Yarn 2/80s

Weft Ply m 3

6744

Cost Yarn 70.25

Extra-Weft Ply m -

Cost

1464

20s

260

2/80s

869

22.6

2/80s

2.18

20s

2/80s

390

11.51

2/80s

175

5.16

1724

8003

104.3

259

7.34

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 131 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 04

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 350/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 01

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 200/Total weaving cost = Rs. 1731/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs.173/-

Total Sampling Cost of the Product = Rs. 1904/-

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Stole 04

Jagbandhu Samrath

Khagpati Panika

PRODUCT: STOLE 04 Dimensions

31.2” × 90”

EPI X PPI

34 × 50

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

34s

26 Ends - Kora-White 21 Ends - Brick-Red 968 Ends- Kora-White 21 Ends - Brick-Red 26 Ends - Kora-White

3825 Picks - Kora-White 675 Picks - Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 9 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

80.15

8497

20s

2435

17.

2/80s

6062

63.15

Brick-Red

32.85

1258

2/80s

100.2

2.6

2/80s

1070

2/80s

87.6

2.25

2535

19.6

7132

91.15

Color

Brown

Total

113

9755

Cost Yarn

Cost

87.6

2.25

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 113 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 04

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 350/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 01

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 200/Total weaving cost = Rs. 1713/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 171/

Total Sampling Cost of the Product = Rs. 1884 /-

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Stole 05

Bidhyadhar Mahanto

PRODUCT: STOLE 05 Dimensions

30” × 86.5 ”

EPI X PPI

39 × 43

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

38s

47 Ends - Brick-Red 1084 Ends - Kora-White 47 Ends - Brick-Red

3539 Picks - Kora-White 180 Picks - Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 8 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Color Kora-White Brick-Red Brown Total

Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

7885

20s

2492

2/80s

5393

15.38

572

20s

234

20s

275

7.2

97.38

8457

2726

5668

63.2

Cost Yarn

Extra-Weft Ply m

Cost

20s

2.18

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 97 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 04

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 350/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 01

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 200/Total weaving cost = Rs. 1697/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 169.7/-

Total Sampling Cost of the Product = Rs. 1867/-

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Stole 06

Khagpati Panika

PRODUCT: STOLE 06 Dimensions

30” × 103”

EPI X PPI

36 × 51

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

36s

24 Ends - Brown 16 Ends - Brick-Red 24 Ends - Brown 962 Ends- Brick-Red 24 Ends - Brown 16 Ends - Brick-Red 24 Ends - Brown

5146 Picks - Brick-Red 107 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 10 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

0.4

63.22

Warp Ply m

Cost Yarn

Weft Ply m

Cost Yarn

20s

Extra-Weft Ply m 2

63.22

Cost 0.4

Brick-Red

298.5 10570

20s

2720

94.4

2/80s

7850

204.1

Brown

15.1

363

20s

259

20s

3.4

20s

0.7

314

10996

2979

105.4

7928

207.5

89.22

1.1

Total

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 314/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 04

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 350/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 01

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 200/Total weaving cost = Rs. 1914/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 191.4/-

Total Sampling Cost of the Product = Rs. 2105/-

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Budget Details Training of the Trainer and Design Development Workshop. Duration = 08 days No. of Master-artisan participated = 06 Wages per days for 1 master-artisan = INR 350. The Raw-Material (yarn requirement) were procured locally and some from the artisans. (20s Unbleached Cotton, 2/60s or 2/80s Bleached Cotton White/ Red/ Brown.)

INR 1096

Total Sampling Cost of the Products.

INR 11,765

The total number of Artisans trained during Workshop 1 = 06. Total number of Days = 08.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Proposal for the forthcoming workshops Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha. Kotpad village, Dongriguda village, Batasana village and Bansuli village.

The Kotpad Handloom Weaving urges demands for up gradation of the skills, market linkages to generate decent revenue income, engagement of more artisans.

Workshop 2 Skill Enhancement (SE)/ Training of T (DD) - with Master-Weavers from all

As per the present scenario of craft study on the field, I propose to have two workshops in continuation, including Master-Weavers from Kotpad village, Dongriguda village, Batasana village and Bansuli village.

Objective: To reduce the weight of fa thread in Warp (In Workshop 1, 2/60 weft.).

Workshop 3 and 4 Training of Semi-Skilled and unskille from Workshop 2 would be appointe semi-skilled artisans/ unskilled artisa

Objective: To flourish the craft and a training and engaging more artisans

Trainer (ToT) via Design Development four mentioned villages.

abric by introducing finer count 0s and 2/80s were introduced in the

ed - Every participated Master-Trainer ed, and held responsible for training ans.

address the extinction of the crafts by s in Kotpad Handloom weaving.

Requirements 1. To identify Skilled, semi-skilled and unskilled artisans from Kotpad village, Dongriguda village, Batasana village and Bansuli village and batch them for Workshop 2 & 3. 2. Common space/place to conduct Workshop 2 and logistics arrangements to collect the artisans from Kotpad village, Dongriguda village, Batasana village and Bansuli village. * Workshop 3 could be conducted in their respective villages. 3. Finer Reed count per participants (to be sourced by the designer). 4. Yarn of different count to be procured beforehand of the Workshop 2 & 3 (designerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s responsibility). Hindrances and doubts The arrangement of looms for unskilled/ semi-skilled. Handloom weaving requires a 3-4 meter space for the looms installations. The available looms in the villages are very limited. So, without foremost required resources, how the skilling program of unskilled/ semi-skilled could take place.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Dolly Sira

Jayanti Panika

Bharti Panika

Rinki Panika

Rina Panika

Asha Devi Mohant

Rashmi Kamadi

Puspanjai Samarth

Ramba

Sangeeta

Community Vice-President 07077562892

color making artisan from Mirgan Street, willing to learn weaving.

Topa Panika

Jinu Tuma

Jasna Rao

Jyoti Mohant

Bejayanti Samrath

Poonam Sira

Samarth

Analya Samrth

Sunita Panika

Padma Panika

Jyoti Mohant

a Panika

Priya Panika

Gayatri Mohant

Brunda Mohant

Lalita Panika

Panika

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

Summary The workshop was conducted for eight days with the bunkers of â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Mirganâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; community of Kotpad town. As per the outcome of the study and research, the Kotpad Handloom weaving takes place in three more nearby villages. During the workshop, the other three villages namely Dongriguda, Batasona, and Bansuli were visited to identify the potential and current scenario of the Kotpad Handloom tribal weaving. The artisan names with skill-categorisation and number of availability of Looms in all four identified villages are mentioned in this report. WHY Kotpad town? This workshop was planned to be conducted with the artisans of only the Kotpad town, among four identified villages. The specialty of Kotpad town is, the whole community is involved in either weaving or its pre/post processes. Also, among all four villages, only the women of Kotpad town are involved in dyeing the yarn organically which is the one of USP/ special attribute/ essence/ charm of Kotpad Handloom weaving.

Intervention/ Developed Product spe Due to non-availability of finer reeds Reed count, 20s Unbleached Cotton cotton in the weft. As per, the first p range- Stoles (of ready-width Reed) w oped from this workshop are of JAN

Experience During the initial days of the worksh terested in participating in the worksh pre-informed about the workshop m shop was unable to be conducted u personal interaction approach the o with each artisan. But, with the pass willingness to be a part the workshop

Wage and Happy-Ending! All the participated master artisans w were distributed in consideration wit end of the workshop, the participate future workshops. The women were a color making along with weaving.

ecification s the explorations were made with 36 n in Warp and 2/80s or 2/60s count phase of execution, only Unstitched were developed. The products develNI/JIVA Range.

hop, the Bunker looked little less inhop because they were unaware/not module and plans. The whole workunder one roof instead through the objective and design, were discussed sing days, they showed interest and p.

were paid INR 350 per day (Wages th the no. of attended days). By the ed artisan look willing to attend the also keen on learning new recipes of

For Further go... While on-field, the workshop project plans were discussed with the Chief Executive and District Project Coordinator of ORMAS and Block Development Officer (BDO) of Kotpad Block (*The BDO agreed to extend help/ support for this project). Recommendation For the further workshops, it is suggested that the AHF should rejuvenate the contact with ORMAS/ HTHD/ Odisha Government and set-up a proper channel for the appropriate coordination on the field for the smooth working of the project on the ground. Plans for the Next workshop To flourish the craft and address the extinction of the crafts by training and engaging more artisans in Kotpad Handloom weaving. Design intervention- Train the skilled weaver to weave with finer threads like the 60s, 80s in the warp with higher reed counts like 60, 72, 120, etc. and develop new product ranges like less-stitched garments- loom products.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Workshop 2 Report

Skill Enhancement (SE) Workshop. Date: 27th May-04th June 2017. Venue : Mirgan Street, Kotpad.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

103

26. 03. 2017 07. 0

6. 20

The skies were still blue but, the paths were no more with lavende instead, the spring welcomed me in red blossomed cruise..

The last time newbie paddies w were waiting to show â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;their beautifully f

25. 03. 2017 01. 07. 2017

er hues,

were seeking in the dews, and fledged golden-brown hues!â&#x20AC;&#x2122;. 04. 07. 2017

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Workshop 2 Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha. Workshop type Date Duration Venue

Workshop Timings Common class Product Range

Skill-Enhancement Workshop. 27th May-04th June 2017. 10 days. Mirgan Street - Kotpad Block - Koraput District, Odisha. Mirgan Street, every batch sat at their Master Trainerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house respectively. 02:00 Pm - 06:00 Pm. 1 hr every day (anytime in between the scheduled timing). Unstitched range - Stoles.

Design Intervene

Learning Basic-Weaving.

Product category

Jani.

Participants Trainer

34 Unskilled Women. Three participated Master-Trainer from the previous workshop were appointed and held responsible for training 11-12 unskilled artisans. Therefore, three batches were formed.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

109

Strengths

✓ • The age-old tradition of tribes of Kotpad, famous for its rustic charm. Kotpad vegetable dyed fabric are registered as GI. ✓ • Three-shuttle interlocking patterning. ✓ • The motif is developed manually by extra-weft patterning. ✓ • Since ages, these fabrics were used as bridal fabric by the tribal communities. ✓ • Universal motifs reflect the cross-cultural linkages of the area. ✓ • The yarn is dyed locally with the roots of Aal (Madder tree), processed in a way to form two shades of red. ✓ • The iconographies reflect the evolution of their culture. ✓ • Work carried out from home. ✓ • Exclusive handwoven fabrics have a good domestic market.

Weaknesses

• Only two tonal colors and off-white color is used till now. • Only the 20s and 40s cotton are being used. The products are heavy because of the thicker cotton count. • The iconographies have been replicated since ages. So all the products look similar. • Only few product ranges are being produced like saris and bed sheets. • Pit-loom is an age-old and space occupying loom. • Very Motif-centric placements of the motifs, overall/ jaal/ elaborate motif patterning, is less seen. ✓ • Youth (mainly men) don’t want to get engaged in this craft because it is a time-consuming craft with low-yield and slow completion. • High Demand- low/ less production. ✓ • Natural-dyed Koraput textiles face strong competition from chemically ✓ dyed products.

Opportunities • A new products line could be introduced apart from the saris; Unstitched- Scarf, Stoles, Dupatta and Saris. Home ranges- Cushion sets, Curtains, Bedsheets and Towels. Table Linen- Table Cloth, Runner, Placemat and napkins. Kitchen Linen (Organic dyes- excellent for Kitchen Market). Apparel A-Line dresses, skirts, Tunic, Poncho. ✓• To involve women in weaving and basic stitching of the new products line, finishing and packaging of the products. • Tussar could be introduced for a new aesthetics and also to reduce the weight of the fabric. • Presently, the 20s and 40s cotton are used. To reduce the density/ weight of the fabric 60s, 80s 100s cotton could be introduced for better yarn quality. • New Iconographies could be introduced to bring a new look. • WSC is inactive for many years. It needs revival and new market linkages. • Scoping followed by the possibility of introducing new natural dyes.

Threats ✓• ✓• ✓• • ✓•

Competition from the power looms. Artisans are moving to the other industrial occupation. A handful of Bunkers involved in Kotpad weaving, Mirgan street. Competition of the other Handloom product. After being one of the GI of India & in spite of government support systems and societies, Mirgan Cloth is also fighting for its survival like other crafts of India. • Same tone of chemical color (imitation) produced and sold thereby in the less value. Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

111

Workshop 2 Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Koraput District, Odisha. Arising from the cradle of a tribe of India, Kotpad weaving has and always will symbolize eco-friendly and sustainable clothing. But somehow, Kotpad weaving, famous village of Mirgan clothes is in crisis. After being one of the GI of India, the traditional art of weaving is likely to be extinct there with the last generation of seasoned fingers caressing the threads. The characteristics of Kotpad weaving are gradually vanishing to meet the market demands. The Kotpad Handloom Weaving urges demand for up-gradations of the skills, market linkages to generate decent revenue income and engagement of more artisans. As per the present scenario, the craft demands a skill enhancement workshop with the enthusiastic womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s of Mirgan Street. Objective To flourish the craft and address the extinction of the crafts by training and engaging more artisans in Kotpad Handloom weaving. Methodology Knowing our crafts teaches us many things like knowing about our surrounding and environment, by carefully observing nature and understanding the consideration of a relationship between people and environment and the interdependence. The importance of our cultural assets, traditional values and deeper knowledge of skills of crafts, should be passed on to generations.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Workshop Methodology Through Exercise-Interaction-Practices. 1. Visualization and representation - To understand and get aware of surrounding and develop simplified form/drawing from Nature/surrounding. 2. To understand the ‘Mathematical measurement’ system and scales. 3. Understanding and learning the traditional names of loom parts and drawing them. 4. Calculation (basic level) of yarn requirement to put on a loom for particular fabric dimension (loom calculations). 5. To understand the Yarn and Reed relation. 6. Know your Craft! Make them aware and create more bonding toward their craft through discussion on: • Comparing Kotpad with different craft, • Discussing the characteristic and essence of their craft, • GI awareness of their craft. • Present scenario and market demands of the craft. • Analyzing and discussing the SWOT of the craft. 7. A test was taken on the last day of the workshop of every participant. The question included identifying the basic part of loom, weaving, joining a thread, basic oral questions on measurement and thread calculation as per Reed.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Bharti Panika

Chandrma Panika

Brinda Panika

Lalita Panika

Rashmita Kamudi

Tupendri Panika

Ahilya Samrath

Bhubaneshwari

Padma Mohant

Nirupama Mohanto

Jyotshna Rao

Navina Panika

Jieenutaman Panika

Suman Panika

Bidhyadhar Mahanto

Master-Trainer

Meenketan Sira

Kamudi

Khagpati Panika

Hira Mani Panika

Samari Kamudi

Hora Priya Panika

Jyoti Mohant

Reena Panika

Dibya Jyoti Mohant

Jochhna Kamudi

Sunita Panika

Ramobha Panika

Diati Samrath

Dolly Sira

Asha Devi Mohant

Hemo Samrath

Jayanti Panika

Rinky Panika

Tulsa Samrath

Kishori Dewan

Punam Sira

Bajanti Samrath

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Gayetri Mohanto

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Photos from the Workshop

Master Meenaketan Siraâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Batch. Batch of 12 Women.

Master Bidhyadhar Mahanto’s Batch. Batch of 11 Women.

Master Khagpati Panika’s Batch. Batch of 11 Women.

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Prototypes Costing &

& Specifications Sheet

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Stole 01

PRODUCT: STOLE 01 31” × 56”

EPI X PPI

36 × 36

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

36s

1180 ends - Kora White

1944- Kora-White 72- Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 32 ends per side

Dimensions Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

28.5

3209

20s

1678

12.5

40s

1531

Brick-Red

2.14

20s

0.14

30.64

3270

1678

12.5

1588

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

3.65

0.12

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 31 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 2.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 100/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 11

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 100 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2881/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 288.1/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 3169/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 02

PRODUCT: STOLE 02 31” × 78”

EPI X PPI

36 × 37

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

36s

24 Ends- Brick Red 1164 Ends - Kora White 24 Ends- Brick Red

2812- Kora-White 74- Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 24 Ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Dimensions Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

31.27

4538

20s

2324

20s

2214

15.27

Brick-Red

9.03

258

20s

200

20s

2.03

40.3

4796

2524

2272

17.3

Color

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 40/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 2.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 100/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 11

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 100 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2887/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 288.7/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 3176/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 03

PRODUCT: STOLE 03 31” × 66”

EPI X PPI

36 × 38

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

36s

1180 ends - Kora White

2394- Kora-White 114- Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 32 ends per side

Dimensions Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

34.1

3983

20s

2098

14.5

40s

1885

19.6

Brick-Red

3.1

20s

3.1

37.2

4073

2098

14.5

1975

22.7

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 37/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 2.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 100/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 11

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 100 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2887/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 288.7/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 3176/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 04

PRODUCT: STOLE 04 31” × 56”

EPI X PPI

36 × 36

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

36s

1180 ends - Kora White

1944- Kora-White 72- Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 32 ends per side

Dimensions Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

28.5

3209

20s

1678

12.5

40s

1531

Brick-Red

2.14

20s

0.14

30.64

3270

1678

12.5

1588

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

3.65

0.12

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 31 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 2.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 100/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 11

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 100 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2881/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 288.1/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 3169/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 05 & 06

PRODUCT: STOLE 05 & 06 29.5” × 64”

EPI X PPI

30 × 58

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

30s

35 ends - Kora White 06 ends- Brick Red 847 ends - Kora White 06 ends- Brick Red 35 ends - Kora White

3538- Kora-White 174- Brick-Red

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 14 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Dimensions Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

65.64

6812

20s

1510

10.5

2/80s

5302

55.14

Brick-Red

9.08

328

20s

2.3

2/80s

261

6.78

74.72

7140

1577

12.8

5563

61.92

Color

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 75/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 2.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 100/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 11

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 100 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2925/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 292.5/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 3218/- (Sampling cost).

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Product - Stole, developed during the workshop.

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Certificate Distribution Ceremony

Address to the participants by:

Mr. Ashutosh Mohanty

Mr. Prasant Kumar,

Assistant Director of Textile, Koraput.

District Project Co-ordinator (DPS)

HTHD, Odisha.

DRDA-ORMAS, Odisha.

Partici

ipants

Certificate Distribution to the Master-Trainers.

Certificate Distribution to the Participated artisans.

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Budget Details Skill Enhancement Workshop. Duration = 10 days No. of unskilled-artisan participated = 34. No. of Master-Trainer = 3. Wages per days for 1 unskilled artisan = INR 100 Total Wages for 10 days for 34 unskilled artisan.

INR 34,000

Wages for 1 Master-Trainer= INR 400 No. of Master-Trainer participated= 3 Total wages for 3 Master-artisans.

INR 12,000

The Raw-Material (yarn requirement) were procured locally and some from the artisans. (20s kora-Unbleached Cotton)

INR 289

Snacks for 34 artisans were distributed on all the days of workshop including the certificate ceremony.

As per actuals.

Participated artisan were equipped with required stationeries (Books, Pencil and erasers).

As per actuals.

Total Sampling Cost of the Products.

INR 19,126

Total number of Days = 10. The total number of Artisans trained during this workshops = 34.

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THE BIG PICTUR

RE 08.06.2017

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Brigham Young — ‘You educate a man; y You educate a woman;

you educate a man. ; you educate a generation.â&#x20AC;&#x2122;

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As per the present scenario of Kot demands for up gradation of the ate decent revenue income, enga

The objective of this workshop a quirement of craft survival. To flo extinction of the crafts by training Kotpad Handloom weaving.

Summary The specialty of Kotpad town is, the whole community is involved in either weaving or its pre/post processes. The men are engaged from the pre-processing of setting up the loom till marketing of the end products. The men who practice weaving are locally known as ‘Bunker.’ The dyeing of yarn is only done by women of Kotpad. As per the outcome of the study and survey of the last visit, due to time-consuming craft with low-yield and slow completion, the youths (mainly men) don’t want to get engaged in this craft. Artisans are moving to the other industrial occupation. Only Handful of Bunkers left in Mirgan Street, who still involved in Kotpad weaving. The market demand of Kotpad weaving is high but has low/ less production. The immediate and essential requirements are careful nurturing and a development plan for facing market competition.

WHY Women of, Kotpad town? If men are drifting towards other are making naturally dyed yarns only the women of Kotpad town organically which is the one of charm of Kotpad Handloom we women of Mirgan Street demand to keep their craft alive and balan market demands.

This workshop was purely dedicat gan women to learn to weave.’ T ten days with the women of ‘Mirg

Intervention/ Developed Product s The product range is categorized learned only basic weaving.

Experience During the workshop, women show enthusiastic and encouraged each literacy stats of participated wom them were uneducated or left the one girl among all is pursuing an ful experience to make the wome object from the surrounding.

tpad Handloom Weaving, it urges e skills, market linkages to generagement of more artisans.

addresses the first, foremost reourish the craft and address the g and engaging more artisans in

r occupation, but still the women s. Also, among all four villages, are involved in dyeing the yarn USP/ unique attribute/ essence/ eaving. During the last visit, the ded a skill enhancement program nce their naturally dyed yarn

ted to boost the ‘enthusiastic MirThe workshop was conducted for gan’ community of Kotpad town.

specification under JIVA RANGE as the women

wed interest in learning, they were h other during the workshop. The men were merely meager. Most of e education after 5th class. Only education in B.A. It was a beautien hold their pencils and draw the

During the workshop, women stated that “many of us are holding the pencil and drawing for the first time in our lives.”. I’m very much thankful to the people of Mirgan community for their love, care, time and food. Ahh! It was such an enriching experience. Uplifting and empowering the women of ‘Mirgan’ community, includes one of the best moments of my career. Wage and Happy-Ending! The three Master-Trainers were paid INR 400 per day. The women participants were paid INR 100 at the end of the workshop. The participants are looking forward to more workshops to attend in future. For Further go... While on-field along with Chironjit Ganguly (Field Coordinator, AHF) the workshop project plans were discussed with the Chief Executive and District Project Co-ordinator of ORMAS, Block Development Officer (BDO) of Kotpad Block and Assistant Director of Textiles of Koraput. Recommendations For this workshop, the wages were distributed in hand. For future workshops, it is suggested that the AHF should rejuvenate their contact with HTHD/ORMAS and establish a proper channel to transfer wages of the artisans. Also, for the appropriate coordination on the field for the smooth working and follow-ups of the project on the ground. Suggestions for the future workshop “A woman is unstoppable when she realizes she deserves better.” The trained women from this workshop showed interest and willingness to attend more workshops in future. The next skilling workshop or follow-up must be followed up as soon as possible.

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Workshop 3 Report

Training of Trainers (ToT) and Design Development Workshop (DD). Date: 26th May - 04th June 2017. Venue : Dongriguda, Koraput District.

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Workshop 3 Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha. Workshop type Date Duration Venue Product Range

Training of Trainer and Design Development Workshop. 26th May - 05th June 2017. 15 days. Dongriguda Village- Koraput District, Odisha. Unstitched Range - Stoles and Stitched Range - Garments.

Design Intervene

To introduce Jamdani technique, Introduce design vocabulary, and Develop new iconographies through graph.

Product category

Jiva/Jiyo.

Participants

01 Master-artisan from Kotpad town, 16 Master-artisan from Dongriguda town and 15 Semi-skilled artisan from Dongriguda town.

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Map of Workshop Venue (Dongriguda), O STATE Odisha

DISTRICT Nabarangapur

DIVISION Koraput

TEHSIL Dabugam

REGION Berhampur

TOWN Dongriguda Pin-764072

Odisha.

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Weaver Co-operative Society Dongriguda W.C.S Ltd. REGD NO. -19(K)TEX, DATE- 30-01-1984 DIST: Koraput, Odisha DONGRIGUDA

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People and Place Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha. The Region, Dongriguda Dongriguda is a small village/hamlet belongs to Dabugan Taluk (taluka) of Nabarangapur district of Odisha State. Dongriguda belongs to Berhampur region and has Division name Koraput. Geo-loation co-ordinates Latitude : 19.3000000 , Longitude : 82.7333000 Elevation / Altitude: 549 meters. Above Seal level Cast Factor In Dongriguda town, most of the village Population is from Other Backward Class (OBC) and Schedule Tribe (ST). Language : Oriya, Kabir bhasha and Hindi. Geographical location and Climate The climatic condition of the district is warm and humid. Average annual rainfall of the district is 1567 mm. Mean Maximum summer temperature is 34.1 C and Mean Minimum Winter temperature is 10.4 C.

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Distance from Major Cities It is located 22 Km towards from Kotpad Block, 73 Km towards North from District head quarters Nabarangpur, 67 Km from Jeypore and 456 Km from State capital Bhubaneswar. Travel and stay Dongriguda is 71 Km from Jeypore and 23 from Kodpad block. Dongriguda and Kotpad is a small town and doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have a hotel to stay. One can stay in DRDA Guest House of Koraput but have to travel 94 Km to reach the Dongriguda town via car. Jeypore is well-developed city and its 66 Km from Donriguda with many hotels to stay. There is no railway station near to Dongriguda in less than 10 km. How ever Raipur Jn Rail Way Station is major railway station 208 KM near to Dongriguda.

Vizag

204

4 Km

Koraput DRDA

23 Km

Jeypore

48 Km

Kotpad

23 Km

Dongriguda

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Craft tradition and Communities The tradition of Koraput Tribal weave started with the few tribal people of ‘Mirgan community’ who used to create their clothes. Traditionally, they used to weave saris which were narrower than the existing saris, made of heavy thick unbleached cotton with a single color pattern woven in red, purple or brown. The yarn was dyed with natural dye made of the roots of Aal (Madder tree). Apart from Mirgan Street, the Kotpad Handloom weaving takes place in three more nearby villages namely Dongriguda, Batasona, and Bansuli. Koraput weaves are still made using age-old techniques of weaving and dyeing in Kotpad. Frame looms are used for wearing in Dongriguda while there has been no change in technology in Kotpad; pit looms continue to be used for weaving.

Some tribes, such as Gadaba, Dong and embellish their textiles. Other tr earn their bread and butter by farmin ta, wrought iron, bamboo, tribal jewe

In Dongriguda, ‘Tantis’ are the wea Weaving. Tanti communities are Hind ya and ‘Kabir Bhasa’ is the Local Lan

Geographical Locations of Tantis The Tanti people are found across the greatest concentration is believed to West Bengal, Assam, and Orissa. The Pradesh, and as well as in Banglades of the large metropolitan areas.

garia khand, and Bondo still weave ribes like Bathra, Bhumia, and Tanti ng and a few other crafts like terracotelry and paddy craft, etc.

aver community involved in Kotpad dus and followers of Sant. Kabir. Oringuage here.

e North-Eastern portion of India. The be in the state of Jharkhand, Bihar, ere are also some to the west in Uttar sh. They tend to live in villages outside

TAJIKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

Peoples of South Asia

Tanti, Hindu

Jammu & Kashmir

AFGHANISTAN

Population: 3,977,198 Districts: 416

Himachal Pradesh Punjab

PAKISTAN IRAN

Chandigarh Uttaranchal

Haryana

CHINA

Delhi

NEPAL

Sikkim BHUTAN

Uttar Pradesh

Rajasthan

Bihar Jharkhand

Meghalaya

BANGLADESH

West Bengal

Madhya Pradesh INDIA

Gujarat

Chhattisgarh Orissa

Daman & Diu Dadra and Nagar Haveli

Population

Arunachal Pradesh

Assam

Nagaland Manipur

Tripura Mizoram

MYANMAR

Maharashtra

Andhra Pradesh Goa

Less than 2,000

THAILAND

Karnataka

2,000 - 10,000 10,001 - 50,000

Tamil Nadu

50,001 - 100,000 100,001 - 2,000,000

Pondicherry

Andaman and Nicobar Islands

Kerala

Lakshadweep

SRI LANKA

Data extrapolted to 2001 from historic census sources by Omid Map by Global Mapping International / Joshua Project

Joshua Project / Global Mapping International

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Craft tradition and Community, Tantis The Tantis (weaverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s community) of Dongriguda, adopts and produce accordingly to the market demand. Apart from Kotpad weaves many weavers also know to weave Jala design, dobby, Tati-Mulya, and Ikat. The weavers of Donriguda practicing Kotpad from fifteen years. In the present scenario, the Bunkers of Mirgan community of Kotpad town has turned into the businessman. They get the Mirgan cloth/ Kotpad fabric woven by the weaves of Dongriguda and sell to the market. As the product has GI, the Tantiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cannot sell to the market themselves. Bunkers of Mirgan community provide the yarn and pay their wages and get the product made. The word Tanti is derived from the Hindi word tant, which means a loom. They were traditionally weavers, and are one of the many communities found in South Asia, traditionally associated with this craft. They were traditionally weavers, and are one of the many communities found in South Asia, traditionally associated with this craft. According to their traditions, they were created by the Hindu god Shiva from his tears. The common tradition goes that the Tanti community as a socially defined group developed under the pressure of the natural demand for woven cloth. Tantis follow their profession as a hereditary one. Tanti belongs to other backward classes for Orissa.

// Source: Unknown.

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Frame Loom in Dongriguda Village.

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Strengths

✓ • The age-old tradition of tribes of Kotpad, famous for its rustic charm. Kotpad ✓ • ✓ • ✓ • ✓ • ✓ • ✓ • ✓ • ✓ •

vegetable dyed fabric are registered as GI. Three-shuttle interlocking patterning. The motif is developed manually by extra-weft patterning. Since ages, these fabrics were used as bridal fabric by the tribal communities. Universal motifs reflect the cross-cultural linkages of the area. The yarn is dyed locally with the roots of Aal (Madder tree), processed in a way to form two shades of red. The iconographies reflect the evolution of their culture. Work carried out from home. Exclusive handwoven fabrics have a good domestic market.

Weaknesses

• Only two tonal colors and off-white color is used till now. • Only the 20s and 40s cotton are used. The products are heavy because of the thicker cotton count. ✓ • The iconographies have been replicated since ages. So all the products look similar. ✓ • Only few product ranges are being produced like saris, Yardages, Table-Cover, Cotton Stoles/ Scarves/ Dupattas, and bed sheets. • Pit-loom is an age-old and space occupying loom. ✓ • Very Motif-centric placements of the motifs, overall/ jaal/ elaborate motif patterning is less seen. ✓ • Youth (mainly men) don’t want to get engaged in this craft because it is a time-consuming work with low-yield and slow completion. • High Demand- low/ less production. • Natural-dyed Koraput textiles face intense competition from chemically dyed products.

Opportunities • A new products line could be introduced apart from the saris; Unstitched- Scarf, Stoles, Dupatta and Saris. ✓• • Home ranges- Cushion sets, Curtains, Bedsheets, and Towels. • Table Linen- Table Cloth, Runner, Placemat, and napkins. • Kitchen Linen (Organic dyes- excellent for Kitchen Market). ✓• Apparel- A-Line dresses, skirts, Tunic, Poncho. • To involve women in weaving and basic stitching of the new products line, finishing, and packaging of the products. • Tussar could be introduced for a new aesthetics and also to reduce the weight of the fabric. • Presently, the 20s and 40s cotton are used. To reduce the density/ weight of the fabric 60s, 80s 100s cotton could be introduced for better yarn quality. ✓• New Iconographies could be introduced to bring a new look. ✓• WSC is inactive for many years. It needs revival and new market linkages. • Scoping followed by the possibility of introducing new natural dyes.

Threats ✓• Competition from the power looms. • ✓• ✓• ✓•

Artisans are moving to the other industrial occupation. A handful of Bunkers involved in Kotpad weaving, Mirgan street. Competition of the other Handloom product. After being one of the GI of India & in spite of government support systems and societies, Mirgan Cloth is also fighting for its survival like other crafts of India. • Same tone of chemical color (imitation) produced and sold thereby in the less value. Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Planned Proposal for this workshops Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Dongriguda village, Odisha. The Kotpad handloom weaving urges demands for up-gradation of the skills, market linkages to generate decent revenue income, engagement of more artisans. As per the present scenario of craft-study on the field, I propose to have a Tot (training of trainer workshop) including the master-weavers and semi-skilled weavers from Dongriguda village. The Kotpad weaves needs nurturing and revival through design intervention and creating more opportunity for the survival of the craft and craftsmen. Objective • To flourish the craft and address the extinction of the crafts by training and engaging more artisans in Kotpad handloom weaving. • To enhance the craft from the production base and improve its competitiveness, trigger growth, and attain economies of scale. • To fuse the fashion trends with gracefully aged, traditional handloom craft of Kotpad weave. Methodology The latest fashion can be combined with tradition in handloom products and designer products made to specific order can be made only in handlooms.

Workshop Methodology Training of the mater-artisan and se ter-trainer would be appointed and semi-skilled artisan/ unskilled artisan

Requirements 1. To identify mater-artisan and sem village. 2. Venue/ place to conduct worksho 3. Yarn of different count to be proc (designer’s responsibility).

Significance of introducing Jamdani For a craft to survive & sustain, it mu of opportunity identification, innovat velopment according to the trends, c order fulfillment.

Apart from strengthening hold in the of techniques & skills, the project wi pad weave products through design

emi-skilled. Every participated masd held responsible for training one ns, during the training.

mi-skilled artisans from dongriguda

op 3. cured beforehand of the workshop 3

ust keep its marketing key processing tion in the design & the product decustomer attraction & Retention, and

Target client Trendy women who appreciate & celebrates the essence of crafts and take pride in wearing traditional with modernity. It is aimed at those who seek fine, detailed garments that are individual and luxurious. Design Intervention â&#x20AC;˘ Reviving old heritage crafts of while retaining their classical look. â&#x20AC;˘ To design a range in sync with the weaver of Kotpad Tribal weaving and maintain the characteristics of the design language and doing justice to the old traditional craft. â&#x20AC;˘ Jamdani has never gone out of style. Even today, Jamdani has equally valued It has, and it always will symbolize aristocracy. The demand for quality Jamdani Sarees has increased exponentially over the years.

e existing markets besides knowledge ill provide thrust in demand for Kotintervention.

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Overview on Jamdani technique Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Dongriguda village, Odisha. Jamdani is one of the ancient techniques practiced in different parts of India. The Jamdani may be called a product of the loom and the shuttle, to which the design motifs are added by hand during the weaving, thus resulting in an embroidery effect.

dani sari width through a small gold in 1947, many Hindu weavers from were rehabilitated in West Bengal. A was first woven in India, in West Ben

The classy and elegant, figured muslin is one of the great accomplishments of the Indian weavers. Figured muslin of India is an ethereal delicacy of the weave and the intricate pattern that is created directly on the loom using the supplementary weft technique known as ‘Jamdani.’

The Romans were so inspired by th ‘woven air’. In 2013, the craft receiv UNESCO declared the craft of Jamd heritage’.

The word ‘Jamdani’ is believed to be of Persian origin, derived from ‘Jam’ (meaning flower) and ‘Dani’ (meaning vase). Weaving Jamdani is the most ancient and generic form of weaving. It requires a basic loom setup and skills for picking and lifting up the warp yarns and inserting, the weft yarn as per the Naksha (design).

Jamdani started spreading during Jamdani is practiced in various regi Pradesh, Manipur, Andhra Pradesh a

History & Stories of Jamdani, in India. Jamdani originated in Bengal and flourished under the patronage of the Mughal emperor. The ultimate test of its fineness was to pass a Jam-

Technique

Discontinuous supplementary weft of and white pure cotton threads are la sion of a suspended pattern on the s Intricate coloured motifs seem to floa

den ring. After the partition of Bengal m Bangladesh migrated to India and And hence, traditionally the Jamdani ngal.

he fabric quality, that they called it ved international recognitionIn when dani weaving ‘an intangible cultural

g British colonial period. Presently, ions of India like West Bengal, Uttar and Tamil Nadu.

The traditional art of weaving Jamdani has been declared by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013. (“Intangible cultural heritage includes traditions or living expressions inherited from our ancestors and passed on to our descendants, such as oral traditions, performing arts, social practices, rituals, festive events, knowledge, and practices concerning nature and the universe or the knowledge and skills to produce traditional crafts,” says UNESCO).

f gold, silver threads, or the colourful aid into the weft to produce the illusurface of almost transparent fabric. at on the fabric.

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Design Process Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

RESEARCH Craft study + Research on Inspiration & Concept, followed by Brief Development for the collection.

IDEATION & ITERATION Initial play with stripes, and checks followed by artwork ideation from inspirations + Selected artworks to refinery.

PLANOGRAM Planogram making followed by final designs selection + making of act al size CADs.

DOCUMENTATION Workshop Report Making with specification sheet & sampling cost. (* Photoshoot is still pending.) SAMPLING Final Pattern Making with corrections followed by final garment stitching from yardages.

Design Process

s tu-

GARMENT Finalization of Silhouette + Engineered design making as per Silhouette + Flats making + Pattern making + Toile Fittings Test.

WORKSHOP 3 Included sampling and execution of final designs on-field.

FINAL CADS TO PRINTS Actual size 1:1 ratio Yardageâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s CADs making with garment placement + Prints of actual scale design layout for stoles and garments yardages.

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Concepts & Inspiration Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

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SUMMERY ORGANIC HANDICRAFT

KORAPUT TRIBAL WEAVING

Non-figuration. Self-expression. Dramatic angles. Casting shadows. Asymmetry landscapes. Geometric composition. Fragmentary revolutionary. Grid as an organizational element. Pattern from Book â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Flatness Folded: A Collection of 23 Contemporary Chinese Garmentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; by Miranda Tsui. Natural Dyeing | 3 Shuttle | Extra-Weft Patterning

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Ideation Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Fork & Spoon-Composition by lines.

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Ideation Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

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Ideation Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

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Iteration - Design 01/ Water Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Sketch

Final Stole

Iterations

Yardage Design with CAD

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36” X 120”

24” X 80”

Ensemble

Iteration - Design 02/ Distorted Temples Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Sketch

Iterations

Yardage Design with CAD

Ensemble

Final Stole

FRONT

BACK

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36” X 130”

24” X 60”

FRONT

BACK

Iteration - Design 03/ Torned Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Sketch

Iterations

FRONT

BACK

Yardage Design with CAD

Ensemble FRONT

BACK

36” X 120”

18” X 80”

Final Stole

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Iteration - Design 04/ Reflection Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Final Stole

36” X 80”

Sketch

Iterations

Yardage Design with CAD

BACK

Ensemble FRONT

BACK

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36” X 180”

FRONT

Final Stole Designs Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha. Stole design with color options.

24” X 60”

Stole 02- Distorted Temples

24” X 80”

Stole 01- Water

36” X 80”

Stole 04- Reflection

18” X 80”

Stole 03- Torned

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Final Ensemble Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Ensemble 01

Ensemble FRONT

FRONT

Ensemble 03 FRONT

BACK

Ensemble 04 BACK

FRONT

BACK

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Ideation Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Buffer Designs (Initial Concepts to start with before making the final desigs..)

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Participants

Semi-Skilled Artisan

Master Artisan

Raghunath Tanti

Baidhnath Tanti

Balram Ta

Nairmal Tanti

Netra Tanti

Parsaram T

Basudev Tanti

Chakradhar Tanti

Rajender Tanti

Ramesh Tanti

Dhansingh

Sashi Tan

anti

Devdas Tanti

Harihar Tanti

Jaya Tanti

Kesab Tanti

Lakhan Tanti

Tanti

Ratnakar Tanti

Shyam Tanti

Simanchal Tanti

Tripoti Tanti

Tularam Tanti

Jayram Tanti

Madhusudhan Tanti

Padman Tanti

Poti Tanti

Prahallad Tanti

Tonkodhar Tanti

Trilochand Tanti

Bansidhar Samrath

Tularam Tanti

Vishwanath Tanti

Tanti

nti

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Workshop Content & Methodology. Through Exercise-Interaction-Practices. 1. Everyday homework- Visualisation and representation - To understand and get aware of surrounding and develop simplified form/drawing from Nature/surrounding. 2. To understand the ‘Mathematical measurement’- system, units, and scales. 3. To promote the artisan to use a graph and make their design later. 4. Introduction to the graph paper, drawing forms, and variations of existing motifs. 5. To calculate the yarn requirement to set up the loom for a particular fabric dimension (loom Calculations). 6. To understand the Yarn and Reed relation. 7. To calculate the costing of the products and wages. 8. Introduction to the Design, Elements of design- point, line, shape/ form, color, texture, and space. 9. Introduction to the concept of Buti, Buta, and Jaal. 10. Introduction to the concept of asymmetry, the beauty of abstraction, deconstruction and wabi-sabi concept. 11. Know your Craft! Make them aware and create more bonding toward their craft through discussion on: • Comparing Kotpad with different craft, • Discussing the character and essence of their craft, • GI awareness of their craft. • Present scenario and market demands of the craft. • Analyzing and discussing the SWOT of the craft.

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Prototypes Costing & Specifications Sheet

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Stole 01/ Design- Water

PRODUCT: STOLE 01/ Design - Water Dimensions

28×76

22.5” × 83”

EPI X PPI

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

28s

662 Ends - Brick-Red

570- Kora-White 3952- Brick-Red 893- Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 32 ends per side

Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2.5 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

4.8

456

40s

326

3.4

40s

130

1.4

Brick-Red

113

3739

20s

1480

54.4

40s

2259

58.6

40s

Brown

36.2

1230

40s

1020

40s

210

6.2

154

5425

1480

54.4

3605

340

7.6

Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs.154/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 1

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2554/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 255.4/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 2809/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 02/ Design- Distorted Temples

PRODUCT: STOLE 02/ Design - Distorted Temple 22.5” × 64”

EPI X PPI

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

662 Ends - Brick-Red

240- Kora-White 1730- Brick-Red 80- Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 32 ends per side

Dimensions

28×30

Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2.25 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

1.5

138

40s

137

1.4

40s

0.1

Brick-Red

71.5

2064

20s

1076

37.3

20s

988

34.2

20s

40s

1.9

40s

0.1

2249

1076

37.3

1171

37.5

0.2

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 75 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 1

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2475/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 247/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 2722/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 03/ Design- Torned

PRODUCT: STOLE 03/ Design - Torned 21” × 78”

EPI X PPI

28 × 70

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

620 - Kora White

5285 Kora-White 126 Brick-Red 49 Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 16 ends per side

Dimensions Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

42.4

4110

20s

1291

13.4

40s

2819

Brick-Red

8.6

40s

6.6

9.5

2/80s

1.5

2/80s

60.5

4250

1291

13.4

2938

32.5

14.5

Brown Total

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 60.5 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 8

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 1

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 2460.5/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 246.5/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 2707/- (Sampling cost).

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Stole 04/ Design- Reflection

PRODUCT: STOLE 04/ Design - Reflection 36” × 95”

EPI X PPI

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

2355 Ends - Kora White

3872 Picks - Kora-White 132 Picks - Brick-Red 176 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 102 ends per side

Dimensions

64 × 44

Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

0 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

24.4

3541

2/80s

5683

20s

3541

24.4

20s

Brick-Red

68.9

6064

121

3.1

260

6.8

12.4

421

161

4.7

260

7.7

5683

3823

32.2

520

14.5

Brown Total

105.7 10026

Cost Yarn

Cost

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 106/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 4

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 2

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 3751/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 375/-

Total Product Cost = Rs. 4126/- (Sampling cost).

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Specification Sheet-Ensembles Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha. Brief Note about sampling Standards Pattern Making + Toile Fitting + Stitching Cost = Rs. 2500 (per Pattern)+ Rs. 350/- (per Garment)

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Yardage & Ensemble 01/ Water

PRODUCT: Design 01 - Water YARDAGE COST

36” × 120”

EPI X PPI

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

64s

2355 Ends - Kora White

4928 Picks - Kora-White 154 Picks - Brick-Red 198 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 102 ends per side

Dimensions

64 × 44

Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

2 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Total Cost

Color

Total Meter

Yarn

Warp Ply m

Cost Yarn

Weft Ply m

Cost Yarn

Extra-Weft Ply m

Cost

Kora-White

107.5 11864 2/80s

Brick-Red

13.7

522

141

3.7

381

816

181

5.3

635

18.7

7358

76.5

4828

1016

28.7

Brown Total

145.2 13202

7358

76.5

20s

4506

20s

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 145 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 3.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 2

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 3200/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 334/-

Total Yardage Sampling Cost = Rs. 3680/PATTERN MAKING & STITCHING COST No. of Garment in Ensemble = 1 Ensemble Sampling Cost: Pattern Making Cost ( Rs. 2500) + Stitching Cost (1 × Rs. 350) = Rs. 2850/Total Sampling Cost (+Yardage Cost) = Rs. 6530/- Contingencies (@ 5%) = Rs. 326/Total Ensemble 01 Sampling Cost = Rs. 6856/-

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Yardage & Ensemble 02/ Distorted Temples

PRODUCT: Design 02 - Distorted Temple YARDAGE COST

36” × 220”

EPI X PPI

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

64s

2355 Ends - Kora White

4928 Picks - Kora-White 154 Picks - Brick-Red 198 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 102 ends per side

Dimensions

64 × 44

Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

1.5 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Total Cost

Color Kora-White

Total Meter

Yarn

183.6 19919 2/80s

Warp Ply m 1

13160

Cost Yarn 137

20s

Weft Ply m

Cost Yarn

6759

46.6

20s

Extra-Weft Ply m 1

Cost -

Brick-Red

37.7

1452

1448

37.6

0.1

Brown

19.1

648

645

0.1

13160

137

8852

103.2

0.2

Total

240.4 22019

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 241 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 6

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 2

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 5441/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 544/-

Total Yardage Sampling Cost = Rs. 5985/PATTERN MAKING & STITCHING COST No. of Garment in Ensemble = 1 Ensemble Sampling Cost: Pattern Making Cost ( Rs. 833.33+ Rs. 2500) + Stitching Cost (2 × Rs. 350) = Rs. 4033.33/Total Sampling Cost (+Yardage Cost) = Rs.10018 /- Contingencies (@ 5%) = Rs. 500.92/Total Ensemble 01 Sampling Cost = Rs. 10519 /-

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Yardage & Ensemble 03/ Torned

PRODUCT: Design 03 - Torned YARDAGE COST Dimensions

38.5” × 160”

EPI X PPI

42×44

For Brown Fabric

40” × 70”

For Brown Fabric

42×46

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

42s

1681 - Brick Red

339 - Kora-White 6512 - Brick-Red 189 - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Brown Fabric 1880 - Brown

Brown Fabric 2940 - Brown

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 64 ends per side

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Warp & Weft

Finishing Tasselling

0 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Warp Ply m

Weft Ply m

Extra-Weft Ply m

Color

Total Cost

Total Meter

Yarn

Kora-White

9.3

1017

20s

331

2.2

20s

686

7.1

6832

177.6

20s

6368

221

3343

140

20s

3172

95.8

20s

9871

319

Brick-Red

398.6 13200

20s

Brown

245.1

6829

20s

653

21046

Total

Cost Yarn

10175 317.6

Cost Yarn

Cost

314

9.3

1000

16.4

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs. 653 /-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 2

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 5053/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 505/-

Total Yardage Sampling Cost = Rs. 5633/PATTERN MAKING & STITCHING COST No. of Garment in Ensemble = 1 Ensemble Sampling Cost: Pattern Making Cost ( Rs. 833.33+ Rs. 1250 + Rs. 2500) + Stitching Cost (3 × Rs. 350) = Rs. 5633.33/-

Total Sampling Cost (+Yardage Cost) = Rs11192/- Contingencies (@ 5%) = Rs. 560/Total Ensemble 01 Sampling Cost = Rs. 11,752/Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Yardage & Ensemble 04/ Reflection

PRODUCT: Design 04 - Reflection YARDAGE COST

36” × 180”

EPI X PPI

Warping Pattern

Picks

Reed Count

64s

2355 Ends - Kora White

7700 Picks - Kora-White 66 Picks - Brick-Red 154 Picks - Brown

Denting

2 ends/dent

Selvedge

4 ends/dent 102 ends per side

Dimensions

64 × 44

Warp & Weft

Weave Structure

Plain weave with discontinuous Extra-Weft.

Finishing Tasselling

0 inches tassels on both of the side.

Washing

Soaking and rinsing in water at room temperature.

Costing Total Cost

Color Kora-White

Total Meter

Yarn

Warp Ply m

160.6 17808 2/80s

Brick-Red

14.3

550

Brown

18.65

631

Total

Cost Yarn

Weft Ply m

10768

112

20s

10768

112

7241

54.35

193.5 18989

7040

Cost Yarn

Extra-Weft Ply m

Cost

48.6

20s

1.6

490

12.7

141

4.15

490

14.5

980

27.2

Total cost of Yarn used in the product = Rs.193.5/-

No. of days taken to weave product on loom = 5.5

Weaver wages per day = Rs. 400/-

No. of weaver/s involved in the weaving = 2

Cost of Auxiliary Tasks (warping, loom setup, winding, tasselling, finishing) per product = Rs. 400 /Total weaving cost = Rs. 4993.5/-

Contingencies (@ 10%) = Rs. 499.35/-

Total Yardage Sampling Cost = Rs. 5493/PATTERN MAKING & STITCHING COST No. of Garment in Ensemble = 1 Ensemble Sampling Cost: Pattern Making Cost ( Rs. 833.33+ Rs. 1250 + Rs. 2500) + Stitching Cost (3 × Rs. 350) = Rs. 5633.33/-

Total Sampling Cost (+Yardage Cost) = Rs.11126 /-

Contingencies (@ 5%) = Rs. 556/-

Total Ensemble 04 Sampling Cost = Rs. 11,682 /-

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Difference in Kotpad Weave of Kotpad town and Dongriguda town. Even though the Kotpad weave of dongriguda has its roots in Kotpad town but still the weaves of both of the town differ. • The weavers of Kotpad town uses reeds made-up of natural material where as the in Dongriguda they use Iron made reeds. • In Kotpad, still primitive pit-looms are being used where as Frame looms are for Kotpad weaving in Dongriguda. • The main difference lies in the look of fabric produced in both of the towns. Technically, the interaction of two different colors of warp and weft create a Chambrey effect. The Chambrey effect could be found in Dongriguda Kotpad weave but not in Kotpad weave of Kotpad Town. The reason behind stalk prominent weft in Kotpad wave of Kotpad town is due to very low EPI and high PPI. That means they use low reed count in proportionate with yarn count result in the weft occupies and sits perfectly one to each other suppressing the warp threads.

Product from Kotpad.

Product from Dongriguda.

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Photos from the Workshop

Participated Artisan in class.

Transaction from Kotpad discontinuous extra weft to Jamdani patterning.

Work in Progress, Stole.

Work in Progr

Kotpad M

ress, Yardage.

Motif back.

Break time with performance.

Motif Explorations.

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Samples from the Workshop

Transaction from Kotpad extra-weft to Jamdani.

Motif Explorations.

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Motifs Exploration

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Workshop Closing Day

Wages envelope.

Picnic arranged by the participated artisans.

Showcase of the samples the wor

s/work produced during rkshop.

Distribution of wages.

Group photo with the Participated artisans.

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Certificate Distribution Ceremony

Welcoming Ceremony

Standees for National anthem.

Audience

Address & performances by participated Artisan.

Address to the participan District Project Co-ordinator (D

Showcase of the sam during the

nts by: Mr. Prasant Kumar, DPS), DRDA-ORMAS, Odisha.

mples/work produced workshop.

Certificate Distribution to the Participated artisans.

Participated artisan gifted Kotpad stole.

Group Photo with the Chief guest and Participated artisans.

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Sampling before & after the Workshop.

Toile/ Test Fittings of the ga

Cutting

Pattern placement as per the CAD.

arments to be made.

Stoles

Final stitched garment with the coordinated stole.

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Final Garments

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Budget Details Kotpad-Jamdani Weaving, Dongriguda Village, Odisha.

Training of the Trainer and Design Development W Module 1: Training of the Trainer Workshop

Module 2: Design D

Duration = 10 days (from Dongriguda village). No. of semi-skilled artisan = 15 No. of Master-artisan = 16

Duration = 1.5 Months. No. Artisan involved = 7

Wages per days for 1 semi-skilled artisan = INR 200 Total Wages for 10 days for 16 semi-skilled artisans. Wages for 1 Master-artisan = INR 400 Total wages for 15 Master-artisans.

INR 32,000

INR 60,000

The Raw-Material (yarn requirement) were procaured locally and INR 1629 some from the artisans. (20s Unbleached Cotton, 2/60s or 2/80s Bleached Cotton White/ Red/ Brown.)

The Wage spilt-up: Wage per artisan: INR 40 (Two artisans required to

Wage calculation = 2 Ar

The Raw-Material (yarn re artisans. (20s Unbleache Brown.)

Snacks for 31 artisans were distributed on all the days of the workshop including the certificate ceremony.

The total number of Artisans trained during workshop 3 = 17+15 = 32 Total number of Days = 10 days of Workshop + 1.5 Months for sampling.

Workshop.

Development Workshop

7-8

00. sit at a time for weaving the products.)

rtisans wage x No. of days spent on making the product.

equirement) were procured locally and some from the ed Cotton, 2/60s or 2/80s Bleached Cotton White/ Red/

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The weavers of Dongriguda procur Mirgan community of Kotpad town. ceived from Kotpad town.

WHY Dongriguda town? This workshop was planned to be c griguda town. According to the inform the potential of the artisan in Dongri

Summary The workshop was conducted for ten days with the 31 men of ‘Tantis’ community (weaver’s community) of Dongriguda town and one man of ‘Mirgan’ community of Kotpad town. The product development was continued for two months after the workshop. The origin and the history of Kotpad Weaves lie in the roots of Mirgan community. With the passing time, the Kotpad weave fighting for its survival and also to meets the market demands traveled from Kotpad town and wide spread to various places like Dongriguda, Bansuli, and Batasana. The Tantis of Dongriguda, adopts and produce accordingly to the market demand. Apart from Kotpad weaves many weavers also know to weave Jala design, dobby, Tati-Mulya, and Ikat.In 2002, few weavers from Dongriguda were trained by the weavers of Kotpad town in Kotpad weave. By the time, the Bunkers of Kotpad town has turned up into the businessmen and weaver of Dongriguda work for them.

Intervention/ Developed Product spe For this workshop, we planned to i garments in Kotpad weave. Jamdan today, Jamdani has equally valued aristocracy. The demand for quality ponentially over the years. The inte heritage Kotpad weave craft while re

Methodology During this workshop, 17 mater-ar were trained. In Dongriguda, two a weaving the products. So, every parti ed and held responsible for training artisans, during the training.

Experience Similar to the previous workshops, I h artisans of Dongriguda. Unfortunate this workshop due to their involveme ing season. At the end this workshop and also celebrated for the reason th cater to the market demands of Jam Dongriguda could able to create its weavers requested and looked forwa future.

re the organic dyed yarns from the Largely, they work on the orders re-

conducted with the artisans of Donmation received from DSMS-Koraput iguda is +100 including women.

ecification introduced Jamdani and developed ni has never gone out of style. Even It has, and it always will symbolize Jamdani products has increased exervention aimed at reviving the old etaining their classical look.

rtisan and 15 semi-skilled artisans artisans required to sit at a time for icipated master-trainer was appointg one semi-skilled artisan/ unskilled

had enriching experience training the ely, the women couldn’t participate in ent in the agriculture field of harvestp the trained artisan was enthusiastic hat only Dongriguda artisan will only mdani in Kotpad weave. After ages, s place in the market. Dongriguda’s ard to orders and more workshop in

Wage and Happy-Ending! All the participated master-artisans, and semi-skilled artisans were paid INR 400 and INR 200 per day respectively. The wages were distributed at the end of the workshop and before the certificate distributed ceremony. By the end of the workshop, the participated artisan look willing to attend the future workshops. Recommendation and for Further go... Mr. Chiranjit (State Coordinator & IB consultant, AHF) met and discussed the larger goal of the project with the Assistant Director of Textiles of Koraput, Chief Executive and District Project Coordinator of ORMAS and with the Block Development Officer (BDO) of Kotpad Block. From the experience of past two workshops and meeting the concern government officials they always emphasized on for conducting any workshop with in coordination with them they need in prior the Project calendar plans and formal head-letter with seeking kind of help and dates of workshop. I would suggest for conducting future workshops kindly follow the same to for receiving aid and support of the government on filed for smooth working and fruitful progressions of the project on the field. Output of the 3rd Workshop Four stoles, four ensembles which included nine garments and four plain garments were the output of this workshop. All the Stoles were made in Kotpad town by Bansidhar Samrath, and all the yardages were produced by the artisans of Dongriguda. Way ahead! After the completion of product development of workshop three, every bit has been handed over to Devyani Prakash (Textile Designer responsible for Kotpad we’ve hereafter) with all the documents and products. I have shared all my experiences with reports in details and guided until my core of knowledge about Kotpad weaves with a brief on WB project. Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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List of Contact Channels Kotpad Handloom Weaving, Odisha.

Ashutosh Mohanty, Assistant Director of Textiles, Koraput (HTHD) adtkpt@gmail.com, 94 39 943652

Roshan Kartik, Chief Executive (CE) Roshan.k74@gmail.com 94 37 642496

ORMAS/DRDA Contacts: B. N Das, (CEO, ED) Bâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;war Bndasbbsr@gmail.com Prashant Das, PM (MIS) ormashq@gmail.com, prasantaa@gmail.com 94 37 633185/ 88 95 091937/ 67 42 565871 Bipin Routh, DY.CE (ADMN. & Accounts) ormashq@gmail.com, bipinrout@rediffmail.com 09437666453, 674 256581 Ms. Madhusmita Sahoo, IAS District Project Co-ordinator (DPS), DRDA dsmskoraput@gmail.com, ori-dkoraput@gramsat.nic.in 94 38 270150/ 06762-224506

Pradeep Kumar Mishra EP (DSMS) 83 38 953512

Prasant Kumar, District Project Co-ord 87 63 606199

Viswajeet Barman (BDO-Kotpad Block Block Development Officer 82 80 405233

*HTHD- Handlooms, Textiles & Handi *ORMAS- Odisha Rural Development Panchyat Raj Department, G *DRDA- District Rural Development Ag

dinator (DPS)

icrafts Department. t And Marketing Society. Govt. of Odisha. gency, ORMAS.

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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Thank You

Asian Heritage Foundation | Kotpad Tribal Weaving, Odisha |

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