Le Cadeau Vineyard showcases 19 clones on Oregon’s Parrett Mountain

NEWBERG, Ore. — Tom and Deb Mortimer have been entrenched atop Oregon’s Chehalem Mountains since 1997 when they discovered 28 acres of previously uncultivated land on Parrett Mountain.

They preserved much of the original timber while clearing 21 acres during the next two years, creating Le Cadeau Vineyard. The winery name, which translates to “the gift” in French, fit perfectly, because the Mortimers viewed this extraordinary site not far from Newberg and overlooking the Willamette River as a priceless gift.

Of those initial plantings — 6 acres of Pinot Noir — went into the rocky, volcanic cobble soil in 1999. Now they have 17 acres under vine in the Chehalem Mountains American Viticultural Area spread across a south slope with an east/west roll. Elevation ranges from 610 feet to 725 feet. The vineyard is sustainably farmed and LIVE certified, yet they incorporate a number of Biodynamic practices. There are multiple microclimates within Le Cadeau Vineyard, along with variations in soil including Jory, Nekia and Witzel. The most dominant is Witzel — well-drained, cobble, broken basalt soil.

The Le Cadeau team produces 1,300 cases, primarily reserve-style Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparkling wine under their Le Cadeau tier, which they unveiled in 2003. Lofty scores soon followed. Famed critic James Suckling recently scored their 2019 Diversité Pinot Noir 96 points and their 2018 Chardonnay 94 points.

“We follow the

European model where the site is everything,” Mortimer says.

Credit for the winemaking is spread between Jim Sanders and Steve Ryan. Sanders worked for Michael Etzel at iconic Beaux Frères prior to joining Le Cadeau in 2006. Ryan came on board a year later having spent years in Sonoma County as head winemaker at Martinelli Winery in the noteworthy Russian River Valley, and worked at nearby sparkling wine house Rack and Riddle in Healdsburg, among other properties in northern California.

Along the way, success and growth from the Mortimer plantings led to a sister label, Joleté and Aubichon Cellars. Production for Joleté can reach 2,000 cases and includes Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon from vines in Oregon and Washington.

In addition to Ryan, Sanders and Burgundy-based consultant Pierre Millemann, contributors to the Le Cadeau story include vineyard manager José López and assistant general manager Brian Matta — a certified sommelier who manages the stylish Dundee tasting room.

Mortimer, referred to as “The Grape Clone Man,” admits he’s fascinated with the research and what he shares is remarkable. The six varieties of rootstocks and 19 clones at Le Cadeau Vineyard combine to reach deep into his rocky Chehalem soils. Clones include virtually all of the noteworthy Dijons (113, 114, 115, 667, 777, the real-828 and 943), Pommard, Swiss clones Wädenswil and Mariafeld, Swan, Hanzell, Mt. Eden, multiple versions of Calera and Vosne Romanée 122. Mortimer was among the first to plant VR 122 in Oregon, back in 2012.

“Originally, Calera was not a clone, but a selection from a high-profile vineyard in Burgundy that contained multiple clones,” Tom says. “We also have an undefined clone that my vineyard manager, José, discovered. Not surprisingly, I call that one the José Clone.”

They also produce a small amount of Chardonnay, primarily from heritage clones — Old Wente 72, Mt. Eden 28, Larry Hyde clones 112 and 113, Musqué 809 and Dijon 76.

Wines showcase the rocky soils, the aspect of the slope along Parrett Mountain and, clonal selection. Each bottling expresses nuances of the vintage and vineyard.

THE LE CADEAU INCLUDE:

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2017 Blanc de Noir, $60: This expressive Brut-style bubbly, made by Ryan with 100% Pinot Noir clones Mariafeld,

Pommard and Dijon, was en tirage more than 4.5 years, and finished at dosage with 2019 Le Cadeau Estate Chardonnay. Tantalizing the palate are layers of brioche, Sweetheart cherries, crisp Granny Smith apples and lemon citrus accents. Hints of exotic spice are supported by bright acidity.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2019 Estate Chardonnay, $45: Aromas of lemon-splashed apples lead the way as the glass approaches the nose. Crafted from heritage clones and Dijon 76 clone fruit, this Chardonnay by Sanders is deeply flavored and elegant. It’s well-balanced as Honeycrisp apple, Meyer lemon, fresh Bartlett pear, a touch of minerality and mostly neutral French oak sashay seamlessly across the palate to a lingering finish.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2019 Côte Est Pinot Noir, $60: Crafted from 115 and 667 Dijon clone fruit planted on a cooler portion of the vineyard, this gem overseen by Ryan is brilliant with its spiced cherry/berry compote aroma. The entry unveils herb-dusted cherry sauce notes, and a bright beam of acidity. Streamlined and zesty through the well-defined Montmorency cherry, licorice and minerally-tinged palate.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2019 Rocheux Pinot Noir, $60: From the Western slope of Le Cadeau Vineyard comes this velvety-textured Pommard/ Dijon 777 Pinot Noir that exudes both power and gracefulness from Sanders. Boldly aromatic and supple on the palate, with scents and flavors of cherry-cola, anise, black tea, fresh raspberries, well-placed oak nuances, and Herbes de Provence entwining with earthiness and a thread of minerality.

Le Cadeau Vineyard 2018 Merci Pinot Noir, $80: This complex, finely balanced Pinot Noir, again by Sanders, is crafted from estate plantings of heirloom (heritage) clones of Pinot Noir — clippings from Mt. Eden, Calera, Swan, Hanzell and Vosne-Romanée. Expressive scents of a floral bouquet are followed by a kaleidoscope of blackberry, dewberry and blueberry flavors, joining black cherry, subtle oak spice, savoriness, minerality and accents of cola nut. The finish lasts long after the final sip.

The Le Cadeau Vineyard tasting room is along Highway 99 West in Dundee. Parking is easy in the lot shared with The Dundee Hotel and several other satellite tasting rooms. Go to LeCadeauVineyard.com.