Even Johansen turns dream into Sylvi Wines, Dalset label

Even Johansen’s road to the Washington wine industry began in Scandinavia, was inspired by South America and led him to Sylvi Wines. His father’s work with a Seattle-based fishing company meant trips to Argentina, Chile and Uruguay, and that meant Sverre Johansen would return home with high-quality wines, including Tannat and Malbec, from small producers.

In 2010, Even explored commercial aviation at Big Bend Community College in Moses Lake, Wash., and he recalls the incredible feeling of flying with instructors and fellow students. After a year, he focused on business management.

His first wine tour of Walla Walla with his parents proved sensational. Shortly after, he talked his father into allowing him to plant 100 vines of Merlot and another 100 of Cabernet Sauvignon on the family property in Moses Lake. The following year, Sverre and his wife Gina went bigger — 500 vines of Tannat. By the fall 2012, Even entered Walla Walla Community College’s acclaimed Institute for Enology and Viticulture.

Growing up among the fjords of Norway and Puget Sound, Even was accustomed to forests. Living in Eastern Washington was an adjustment, but Walla Walla was charming from the start, and he quickly made friends within the local gay community. With this group, he felt welcomed and connected. Outside of the group, however, he worried how a gay man might be treated in Walla Walla. He was selective of who he came out to, admitting that he typically hid his “gayness” at work and school.

As a winemaking student, his first harvest was at Bergevin Lane, which led to a job at Tertulia Cellars, where he worked in the cellar and the tasting room. There was acceptance and friendships. He remains grateful for the time winemaker Ryan Raber and sales expert Michelle Aichele spent mentoring him, sharing books, information about the world of wine and anything else. Raber’s standards and talent were inspirational, leading Even to vow to never waste time working on ordinary wine.

That time at Tertulia proved pivotal. The combination of talented mentors who took a genuine interest, plus the sense of belonging, mixed with support from new friendships, gave Even the reassurance that he was on the right track.

A harvest job at Charles Smith Wines/K

Vintners was another positive for Even, who gained experience with aging white wine in oak barrels. A winemaking job with Aquilini for the 2016 and 2017 harvests was a “tremendous learning opportunity” to further his knowledge and experience.

It also pushed Johansen to launch Sylvi

Wines, which he began with single barrels of two distinctly different grapes — Syrah and Grüner Veltliner. His fascination with the obscure Austrian white variety began in 2015 with a bottle that immediately demanded his attention.

“I love a zesty, fresh Grüner,” Even says, “but I wondered, ‘What could barrel-aging do for Grüner?’ ”

His debut for Sylvi Wines, with labels featuring his own paintings, came with a 2017 Syrah from famed Ciel du Cheval Vineyard on Red Mountain and a 2018 Grüner Veltliner from nearby Inland Desert Vineyard.

Meanwhile, back in Moses Lake, Sverre and Gina decided after several years of hobby winemaking they would get their license and start production commercially for their Cascade Cellars. Production began in 2016, but the farming proved troublesome. Tannat is a challenge to grow, and the 2018 and 2019 vintages presented them with grapes high in acid, resulting in gritty/austere wines. Smoky characteristics also were prevalent in the 2020 vintage.

Fortunately, the 2021 vintage brought improved quality, and those wines will be bottled soon. The 2018 and 2019 vintages need more aging to soften and become ready for release — reminiscent of the approach in Uruguay.

After years of dreaming of going to Napa to work a harvest and learn new winemaking perspectives, Even landed an intern position at internationally famous Screaming Eagle.

“It was the most amazing winery,” he says, “not just the history and the wine, but the people were knowledgeable and down to earth.”

His fond memories include a culture of support, kindness and incredible staff meals made from the on-premise garden.

Alas, Sverre’s health declined rapidly. Even left harvest early to return home as his father entered hospice. While the waiting list at Screaming Eagle is famously long, the “family comes first” atmosphere at the Oakville icon meant Even would depart on good terms. He says working at Screaming Eagle reminded him of Tertulia, where a sense of family, friendship and camaraderie created in the cellar by Raber was critical.

“You must put yourself out there and go for it,” Even says. “If you dream it, you can make it happen. Build yourself a community — find the people who are your safety net.”

Sverre lost his battle with cancer earlier this year. Cascade Cellars has closed temporarily, but Gina intends to resume operations in Moses Lake. This summer brings the launch of Johansen’s premium brand, Dalset — a nod to the family farm in Norway. There will be a 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2017 Syrah, each featuring Ciel du Cheval. Both were unveiled at the second annual Queer Wine Fest in Oregon’s acclaimed Dundee Hills.

Recently, Johansen joined the team of friends Seth and Audrey Kitzke, becoming the assistant winemaker for the couple’s UpsideDown Wines brand, the family’s Kitzke Cellars label and the limited-production The Devil Is A Liar, a project dedicated to fruit from exclusive WeatherEye Vineyard atop Red Mountain.

There will be plenty of time to turn Malbec and Tannat from Johansen’s dreams into bottles.

Sylvi Wines does not operate a tasting room at this time. For more information, contact SylviWines.com or (206) 310-3228.

April Reddout is a professional wine judge and hospitality consultant who was then the guest services manager for Col Solare on Red Mountain. She can be reached at ReddoutWine.com.