Kicking (and stomping) old-school style aging wine in Amphora

Kicking (and stomping) old-school style

Aging wine in Amphora

With research, technology, and science creating more efficiencies in the world of delectable wine production, there’s been a growing resurgence in bringing back some old-world techniques - a throw-back to the winemaking ancestors and their traditions.

Among the resurrection is the incorporation of amphora – terracotta, egg-shaped vessels – a new (old) practice used to ferment and age wine. The custom originated in what is now known as Georgia in Eastern Europe more than 6,000 years ago. Depending on where they are sourced from, the vessels are known as many things. In Georgia, they are known as qvevri, which are traditionally buried. In Spain, they are referred to as tinaja, and in Italy, they are known as amphora. Here, we call them clay.

Fermenting and aging wine in clay creates a different profile flavour as the more widely implemented stainless steel tanks or oak barrels, and it produces a cleaner wine with rich and deep texture.

When fermenting and aging in stainless steel, the wine is not exposed to oxygen, and it does not absorb any additional flavours. An oak barrel allows for the exchange of oxygen with the wine while infusing the juices with its wood flavours.

Clay takes one benefit from each container. Like oak, clay is porous allowing for an exchange of oxygen but does not transfer any additional flavours like an oak barrel would, much like steel.

Blue Grouse Estate Winery on Vancouver Island began incorporating clay five years ago

Bailey Williamson tends to the amphora at Blue Grouse Estate Winery on Vancouver Island.

as an alternative to the standard stainless-steel tanks, wood barrels, and concrete eggs.

“As the natural wine movement began to grow, people became interested in making wine more sustainably, so it became an interesting point of differentiation,” says Bailey Williamson, winemaker at Blue Grouse. “We had considered the amphora and thought we’d give it a try,” he says. “If it didn’t work out, at least they would make a hell of a planter.”

He says that there are two points of distinction when it comes to influencing the flavour profile: fermenting and aging. Because of its shape, the berries stay submerged in the liquid while fermenting and the clay allows for the interior heat to dissipate easily. When aged in clay, the wine results in a slightly softened effect.

In the first year of use, Blue Grouse created a line of orange wine - white wine fermented with the berry skins. “Fermenting with the skins incorporates the tannins and a bit more acidity making the wine more stable so there’s less need for sulfur as a preservative,” says Williamson.

The clay vessels currently in rotation at Blue Grouse are made entirely by hand in Italy’s Chianti region by Manetti Gusmano & Figli; the same type of fired terracotta amphora that the ancient Romans and Greeks would have used to move their wares, including wine, olive oil, and dried goods.

Williamson says he may create another orange wine, but he has moved on to producing Pinot Noir in the clay amphora. “I’m really liking the Pinot Noir right now. We pick large bunches of grape clusters, throw them in the amphora, and then do a little stomping to generate some juice,” he says. “It’s pretty cool. The amphora seems to work well in the cool climate, and I like the way the Pinot Noir responds.”

The use and maintenance of clay pots is less efficient than its newer counterparts. Because the porous nature of the terracotta is absorbent, heavy chemicals should be avoided when cleaning. Plus, they must be cleaned with a gentle water temperature otherwise it could cause cracking and breakage.

The notion of making wine like the ancient Romans or Greeks has both a romantic and noble feel to it. However, you don’t need a toga or gladiator sandals to drink wine like a Greek god, but a shirt and shoes are still preferred if not required. o