Delta Magazine January/February 2022 by Delta Magazine

Delta

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2022

Annual Tourism Issue

Steamboats on the River Getaway to Natchez Hotel Roundup Native American Artifact Collectors

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Delta Magazine 2022

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Delta m

Publisher: j. Scott Coopwood Editor: Cindy Coopwood Managing Editor: Pam Parker Contributing Editors: Hank burdine, Maude Schuyler Clay, jim “fish” Michie, brantley Snipes roger Stolle, noel Workman Digital Editor: Phil Schank Consultant: Samir Husni, Ph.D. Graphic Designers: Sandra goff, Maggi Mosco Contributing Writers: Karen focht, Sherry lucas, Susan Marquez, Katie tims, Marilyn tinnin, anne Martin, archie Manning Photography: rory Doyle, abe Draper, Karen focht, timothy ivy, anne Martin Vertrano, logan Kirkland Account Executives: joy bateman, Cristen Hemmins, Kristy Kitchings, Wendy Mize, ann nestler, Cadey true Circulation: Holly tharp Accounting Manager: emma jean thompson POSTMASTER: Send all address changes to Delta Magazine, PO box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732

ADVERTISING: for advertising information, please call (662) 843-2700 Delta Magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited materials or photos and in general does not return them to sender. Photography obtained for editorial usage is owned by Delta Magazine and may not be released for commercial use such as in advertisements and may not be purchased from the magazine for any reason. all editorial and advertising information is taken from sources considered to be authoritative, but the publication cannot guarantee their accuracy. neither that information nor any opinion expressed on the pages of Delta Magazine in any way constitutes a solicitation for the sale or purchase of securities mentioned. no material in Delta Magazine may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publication. Delta Magazine is published bimonthly by Coopwood Magazines, inc., 125 South Court St., Cleveland, MS 38732-2626. Periodicals postage paid at Cleveland, MS and additional mailing office. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Delta Magazine, PO box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732-0117. Delta Magazine (uSPS#022-954)

Delta Magazine is published six times a year by Coopwood Magazines, Inc. EDITORIAL & BUSINESS OFFICE ADDRESSES: Mailing Address: PO box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732 Shipping Address: 125 South Court Street, Cleveland, MS 38732 E-mail: publisher@deltamagazine.com editor@deltamagazine.com

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from the editor

Hello Again elcome to a new year and a new issue which focuses on tourism and travel—both to and from the Delta. When planning a weekend or getaway feature for this issue, we wanted to select a place that’s easily accessible, reasonable in price, and no more than a few hours drive from the Delta. We decided natchez ﬁt the bill perfectly! a few years ago, i took an impromptu trip to natchez with my sister-in-law, Candy Myles. Other than booking a room at one of the cottages at Monmouth, (which i definitely recommend) the trip was completely unplanned. needless to say, My amateur shot of the unfinished it was a fantastic getaway. We ate in the lovely dining room at dome from the lower floors of Monmouth, 1818 restaurant, which was excellent, got an Longwood. We were amazed to see espresso at Steampunk Coffee roasters and had a delicious the tools, lumber, and forms for flatbread at the King’s tavern, which, sadly, is now closed. Housed plaster impediments remaining in in the oldest building, in natchez, circa 1789, the experience the house. was surreal. We were able to work in tours of longwood, rosalie and ellicott Hall, all of which were fascinating in their own right. We also enjoyed the freedom to just roam the beautiful streets and neighborhoods. it was an idyllic couple of days. i couldn’t help but notice, and think most would agree that there are notable similarities between our region and this historic town. the Delta is the birthplace of the blues; natchez is the birthplace of Mississippi. both are dominated by the comings and goings of the river. both are steeped in significant native american and social history. the Delta was dubbed “the Most Southern Place on earth” after james Cobb’s book by the same name was released, while author richard grant’s recent book about natchez is titled The Deepest South of All. there’s an appeal to natchez that makes it a perfect getaway for history buffs, lovers of architecture, culinary connoisseurs, and music and art lovers alike. and, if you just want to relax in a beautifully restored historic home and recharge your batteries—this is the place for you. if your travel leanings are more nautical, you are in luck and don’t have to go far. read anne Martin’s story about the modern-day american Queen steamboat cruises that are once again docking locally at terrene landing and in greenville, page 50. there are also some new hotels in the area and one coming soon you’ll want to check out, page 84. i feel compelled to point out one of the books we’ve reviewed in this issue. Written by David Magee of Oxford, Dear William, is an unforgettable story of love, loss, and ultimately—incredible strength and redemption. in his own words Magee describes it as “the true story of the making and near breaking of an american family.” He shares the family pain and never discussed secrets that shaped his own life, and went on to With Candy beside the massive columns impact his marriage and children. He shares the familial struggles with on the upper balcony at Rosalie. addiction which eventually led to the tragic death of his oldest son, William, of a drug overdose. ultimately this memoir is a love letter to him and all families who have experienced this type of loss. i admire the courage it took for Magee to write Dear William, which in my opinion is a must-read for all parents of teenagers and college students, as many of the anecdotes Magee describes are all too familiar, and a reminder that no family is immune. in closing, i hope your year is off to a great start—that you are keeping those new year’s resolutions, and that lots of travel, great books, and plenty of time for family and friends is on your calendar for 2022! DM

Cindy Coopwood Editor

@cindycoopwood | cindy@deltamagazine.com

We discovered this beautiful courtyard as we explored the A view of the front porch and balcony at neighborhoods around town. Monmouth. 10 | january/february 2022

contents Volume 19 No. 4

january/february

114

RORY DOYLE

102

RORY DOYLE

ABE DRAPER

KAREN PULFER FOCHT

RORY DOYLE

40 122 features

DM’s Annual Tourism Issue

131

BOOKS

ART

MUSIC

102

HOME

114

FOOD

138

HISTORY

DELTA URS DETO

Walking Back Time

Modern-day artifact collectors are helping preserve the Delta’s history

Health, Beauty, and Wellness

Steamboats in the Delta, page 50 Today’s Riverboats are updated, elegant, and once again docking in the Mississippi Delta Delta Detours and Tourism advertising section, page 58 Getaway to Natchez, page 70 Older that the State of Mississippi itself, Natchez never disappoints Hotel Roundup, page 84 A look at four new area hotels to book for your travel plans this year

departments

Start the new year off the right way with these health care providers

Reviews of new releases and what Deltans are reading now

LEE HARPER: Meticulous and Mesmerizing models capture iconic Delta locations BOBBY RUSH: The well-traveled musical journey of our elder Bluesman

Inviting, Inspiring & Unique: An art-filled home in Indianola

Meatless main dishes to try this year Lowcountry Oyster Roast in Hernando, page 122

KIAMIE’S MAE HELEN: Loved and Remembered by Ole Miss Students

in every issue 14 Letters 18 On the Road Where we’ve been, where we’re going next

22 Off the Beaten Path Roaming the real and rustic Delta

26 144 146 152

Hot Topics Events Delta Seen The Final Word

ON THE COVER: Close-up of some of John Meeks extraordinary collection of Native American Artifacts. Photo by Rory Doyle. 12 | january/february 2022

YOUR LIFE...STYLED

F U R N I T U R E Inside Miskelly Pearl & Miskelly Madison | 601.939.6288 | Miskellys.com

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LETTERS

DISCOVER

appreciated your support over the years and dearly loved the article—although it was definitely hard to read through the tears. and, many thanks to writer Sarah fowler, who was there on our last night. it is the best article ever written that captured the true spirit of luscos! Karen Pinkston Greenwood, Mississippi

THE ARTS

Reading Sparky Reardon’s essay on Christmas in the Delta brought back so many memories. He and i grew up in the same church, St. elizabeth’s, in Clarksdale. We lived in Marks, so going to midnight mass meant my parents hauling four kids through the cold night for the drive to church. We always left in the middle of Miracle on 34th Street and i don’t think any of us saw the end of that movie until we were grown. listening to joyce Mcalexander’s exquisite voice was always a treat and, yes, my mother loved to hear her sing. thanks, Sparky, for a trip down memory lane! Karen Vincent New Orleans, Louisiana

Thanks so much to Editor Cindy Coopwood for publishing in the Holiday issue my mother’s recipe for her date pinwheel cookies. Our family loved seeing it as it brought back memories to us all. We’ve been visiting the Mississippi Delta and surrounding area since 2004. like many others, we first came for the music, food and culture. but, we always come back for the people. thanks to the great Magnolia State and to Delta Magazine, keep up the good work! Mike Lucas Parkersburg, West Virginia D

GOOSE HUNTING IN THE DELTA BY HANK BURDINE • PHOTOS COURTESY HANK BURDINE COLLECTION

something alluring and intriguing about the huge Canada goose HE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, AS WE IN THE DELTA KNOW that stirred the blood and soul of those early sportsmen. To hear IT TODAY, HAS NOT ALWAYS BEEN AS EASILY their honking and calling to one another and then to look up and ACCESSIBLE AS IT PRESENTLY IS. Before the see the always changing, yet constantly the same, vee formation of channelization by the Corps of Engineers, after the the Canada goose stirred something wild devastating 1927 flood, which and deep within and caused those early took out miles of meandering bends in an hunters to venture out onto the river, to effort to speed floodwaters to the Gulf and camp or to stay on boats, while accessing eliminate bottlenecks, the Mississippi the wildness and dealing with the everRiver was a wild and pristine place, ever changing nuances of the Big Muddy. changing yet always the same in the eyes A goose hunt in those days was a well of a duck or a goose. In those days, there planned out adventure that sometimes were no slack water ports or cut-off oxbow lasted four to five days, if not longer. lakes that opened to the river. Cabin Food, provisions, water, liquor, bedding, cruisers and small outboard boats had no guns, ammo, and dogs had to all be place to tie up except on the banks of the carefully planned, laid out, and fast moving and fluctuating river. Unless apportioned so as not to run out of you had a houseboat tied up behind a anything during the trip. There were no willow brake and accessible from land, it Quik Stops on the river during those days, was fairly hard for the average sportsman as there are none today! My Mama, Baby to partake of the plethora of waterfowl Jane Rule, often commented that on the that annually migrated south along the return trip to Greenville from Vicksburg river’s confines by the millions. Geese, after a goose hunt hosted by my Daddy ducks, swans, pelicans, and other for his Anderson, South Carolina, friends, waterfowl followed the age-old migration in which she was driven down to return pattern of the Mississippi River, possibly Hal and Baby Jane Burdine preparing to goose upriver with my Daddy, “there was no the largest migration route in North hunt on Luna Bar north of the Greenville harbor America. The Mississippi Flyway attracts entrance to the Mississippi River in the winter of drinking water left on the boat, yet the about 40 percent of North American 1938. The pit had been dug the afternoon before best coffee I’ve ever had was made each waterfowl and shorebirds. It was wild and and lined with plywood for a comfortable and morning from water dipped straight from the Mississippi River.” wooly out on the river during the 1930s, effective hideout. In the 1930s and ‘40s, the series of but avid sportsmen and sportswomen rock dikes had yet to be permanently placed by the Corps of were soon able to access it from the newly created Lake Ferguson Engineers and large sandbars formed each year, only to be washed and Lake Whittington. Ducks were everywhere, but possibly the away and moved downstream to other locations during each spring main quarry of those early hunters on the Big River was the icon high water event. Ducks would use back channels and slashes along of the North American wilderness, the Canada goose. There was

Let Ridgeland quench your next cultural thirst. The Bill Waller Craft Center sits among the historic Natchez Trace Parkway and awaits with original, hand-crafted art pieces. Stay awhile to dine, explore and unveil creativity.

“Bo Weevil” Law, an ardent and long-time goose hunter with three succulent specklebelly geese, which are often referred to as “The Ribeye of the Sky”! If geese are in the area, Bo is hunting!

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Our sincerest thank you to Editor Cindy Coopwood and her husband and Publisher Scott Coopwood for the special article about lusco’s and our final night of operation in the november/December issue of Delta Magazine. We have

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I just read Hank Burdine’s article about Mississippi River Hunting in the november/December issue. as always, what an “awesome” “awesome” article! When i receive each new issue, i always look forward to reading Hank’s articles first! Please keep them coming for a long time. Tony Gardner Helena, Arkansas

SEND COMMENTS AND LETTERS TO: editor@deltamagazine.com or Delta Magazine, PO Box 117, Cleveland, MS 38732 14 | january/february 2022

DELTA MAGAZINE 2021

Y’all Said SOCIAL MEDIA COMMENTS @deltamagazine

We Asked...

What’s your favorite or the most unique way you use W-D 40? To unstop a greasy sink drain. – Ann Bullock Spray WD40 in keyholes to get the lock to work again, and on headlights to make them look clear! – Nancy Jackson I use it to remove old sticky residue from price tags, labels, or stickers from glass or mirrors! Works every time. – Sandra Goff Believe it or not I use it to clean soap scum on shower tiles and doors. – Suzanne Durfey

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READER RESPONSE deltamagazine.com

November-December Issue End of an Era by Sarah Fowler ~ Lusco’s was a “RITE” of passage for lucky folks growing up in the Mississippi Delta. – Panny Flautt Mayfield Such a sad shame. – Ellis Darby

May-June Issue Tutwiler Quilters by Sarah Fowler ~ Wow, I am amazed at the talent and love I see in those quilts. I am from Glendora. But, have lived In Memphis for the last forty years. I am down there every other week because my dad still lives there. I never knew this place existed. Now that I do, I will definitely be stopping by to shop or order. I love the hand stitched quilts. I have one that I acquired from somewhere, that is barely hanging in there. Now, I’ve just seen the shop featured on TV with Gail King. How proud that made me feel to see them get that recognition. Thank you all for what you do. – Minnie Williams I am a quilter and I marvel at what these women have accomplished. Making a quilt is a special treat. Leaning how to make a quilt by seasoned and experienced artists is priceless. I wish I could sit at their side all day and watch it happen as it unfolds. Kudos to all of those who contributed to the process of ensuring that this precious art form survives and carries on to the next generations. – Vanessa Wallace Delta Magazine 2022

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Winter Wonder

PHOTO BY RORY DOYLE

a blanket of snow covering the Mississippi Delta is a rare but welcome sight. During these special times, when the snow arrives there is always cause to celebrate, with many families building snowmen or heading to the levee with sleds. Perhaps author Craig D. lounsbrough said it best: “the snow falls soft and unfathomable, drawing the world down to a whitened hush, forcing us (as few things do) to pause long enough to take stock of everything that we miss in our crazed pursuit to gain everything that we can.” DM

ON THE ROAD

where we’ve been, where to go next

DUNCAN

NASHVILLE

n Jam Sessio A majestic hipped roof barn stands the test of time near Duncan. – JORDAN COOPWOOD

Wheel Away

Rock ‘N Roll chairs celebrating some of America’s greatest songwriters and guitarists. – SHARON KING

NITTA YUMA

PHOTO OPS B.B.Was Here

An early form of travel found in the South Delta.

– RORY DOYLE

BATESVILLE

A Welcollme To A A salute to old times on the edge of the Delta. – JIM HENDRIX

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OXFORD

A study of the Delta’s music at Ole Miss. – DELTA MAGAZINE

Winter Solstice MERIGOLD

SHAW

After the harvest season and the farmers have gone home, the fields rest on a late winter day. – MECHELLE GENTRY WILSON

Furry Friend The McCarty shop cat blends right in with the new creations for sale at this popular destination. – ROGERS VARNER

Ridin’ T hat Train

ARKANSAS

& FUNKY STOPS Historyd Preserve

Big Boy, the largest steam engine in existence rolling into Walnut Ridge, Arkansas. – LARRY HENDERSON

OKALONA

GUNNISON

The historic First United Methodist Church.

– LARRY HENDERSON

One of the riverside’s early dwellings in downtown Gunnison, under a blanket of snow. – THOMAS COOPWOOD

Instagram users, follow @deltamagazine

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OFF THE BEATEN PATH roaming the real and rustic Delta

BLUE COTTON BAKE SHOP Unique Eatery in Downtown Clarksdale

HE BUTTERY AROMA OF CROISSANTS FROM THE OVEN…tried and true sweet

potato pie…moist cake layers smothered in fluffy buttercream…the one and only chocolate chip cookie…just to name a few. this is some of what you’ll experience when you walk in the door of blue Cotton bake Shop in Clarksdale. Principal owner Sammy yates says the business opened in September 2020, and offers much more than just baked goods and sweets. “We specialize in old-fashioned as well as modern cakes and desserts. but, blue Cotton also offers the most delicious unique omelets, salads and top of the line Philly Sandwiches and fresh deli sandwiches. We also serve vegan and vegetarian options. to quench your thirst, we offer house-made limeades, teas and infused vitamin waters.” yates adds their goal with the restaurant is to take your senses on a journey, to smell the culture, experience the culture and taste the culture of great food, wonderful music and outstanding customer service and southern hospitality. “the idea to combine the roots of american music with the culture of cotton was inspired by our passion for the preservation of our country’s iconic culture and history, hence our name, “blue Cotton bake Shop.” and, historic downtown Clarksdale is the perfect canvas to share our gifts. everything is prepared in-house and we strive to be constantly and consistently friendly, attentive, and courteous.” the restaurant is open tuesday through friday 6 am to 4 pm and Saturday 7am to 1pm, closed Sunday and Monday. 301 Issaquena Avenue Clarksdale, Mississippi 662.483.1637

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Located in historic downtown Clarksdale, a unique bakery is serving up old-fashioned fare as well as a vast variety of modern tasty treats.

THELMA’S KITCHEN Downhome Cooking at its Finest

ROM HOMEMADE PECAN CAKE TO PLATE LUNCHES SERVED WITH A MEAT, three

At Thelma’s Kitchen in Yazoo City, homecooking at its finest awaits every customer. While all the dishes will touch your soul, the greenbeans are described as “simply amazing.”

sides and a drink, home cooking is what you’ll get at thelma’s Kitchen in yazoo City. thelma burks owns and operates the restaurant and has been cooking up downhome fare since October 2017. located at 1017 South industrial Parkway in yazoo City, thelma’s Kitchen is open tuesday through Sunday for lunch from 11 am until 2:30 pm and promises to feed you a meal prepared with a lot of love and know-how. “i cook myself,” burks says, “and i’ve really never used a recipe. if i cooked from a recipe, my food wouldn’t taste the same, i just know it. it’s cooked from my heart. i also serve desserts and they’re all homemade. We serve our pecan cake and banana pudding each and every day, and a homemade sour cream pound cake on some days. but, my pecan cake is really one of my specialties.” burks loves what she does and enjoys serving up meals that are prepared by her hand. from her fried chicken to her smothered pork chops, the food is homestyle and definitely keeps her customers coming back. Check them out the next time you’re in yazoo City. and be sure you try the green beans, they’ve been described by one customer as amazing! thelma’s Kitchen, home-cooked taste you don’t expect from a restaurant. and of course, when the meal is eaten and you think you don’t have room for one more bite of anything, there’s always a slice of homemade Pecan Cake or thelma’s banana Pudding. Surely, you can make room for that! enjoy! 1017 South Industrial Parkway Yazoo City, Mississippi 662.763.9188

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Touching lives. Powering the future. At Entergy Mississippi, the communities we serve are the communities we call home. That’s why we stay active and involved – because we know our responsibility reaches beyond the power grid. So, we invest in education and industry, while developing new solutions to power tomorrow. As a community, our successes fuel each other. We’re all on a circuit. And together, we power life. entergybrightfuture.com

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HOT TOPICS PIANOS LIVEN UP CLEVELAND Instruments are strategically placed downtown the sidewalks of Cleveland have a decidedly different—and musical—vibe these days. Six handpainted and decorated pianos have been strategically placed in key locations downtown by the Delta art institute and other donors. the project was spearheaded by grammy award winning singer and songwriter, tricia Walker. “i became aware of these public piano projects all around the world,” says Walker. “as i’ve been working on the local Cleveland music scene and the Deep roots initiative, it seemed a perfect fit. it stems from the idea that music is the great connector. it connects people across all kinds of lines.” With the idea in mind, she contacted the Delta arts alliance to put out a call for donated pianos and in short order they were overwhelmed with pianos. the pianos were then adopted by gifted classes from the local schools, who painted and personalized each one. “they came to the arts alliance and painted them outside. there are various themes—music, agriculture, the river, just everything associated with the Delta.” after being painted and seal coated, the pianos were placed them in various spots for anyone and everyone to stop and play. each piano has a plaque displaying sponsor information and the

school and class that painted it. there’s also a tarp and bungee cords in the piano bench for good Samaritans to cover them in bad weather. “they are meant to be played and not just looked at,” she said. “Somebody gave it a really cool hashtag, #staytunedcleveland.” Walker herself tested each piano and has sat down and played—and even gave an impromptu piano lesson. “a young man came out of a store and asked me to show him how to play what i was playing. i gave him a 15-minute lesson,” she said. “We hope it will touch everybody.”

MUST READS FOR THE NEW YEAR Our Southern Souls and Images of America, Mississippi in the Great Depression Most avid readers enjoy delving into books that take them on a personal journey to familiar places or engulf them in historical events that have fashioned the world we live in today. using a narrative lens to share provocative thoughts and experiences, authors lynn Oldshue and richelle Putnam have created two works that should be on everyone’s mustread list in the new year. Our Southern Souls is a beautiful collection of personal interviews that Oldshue conducted with strangers during her travels across the Southern united States. each story feels like an honest conversation and the thoughts of each and every person interviewed resonate with the reader. the collection of tales proves that two things remain constant: everyone has a story to tell and all of us need to know our life matters. in Images of America, Mississippi in the Great Depression, author Richelle Putnam Putnam gives the reader a detailed

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Lynn Oldshue

synopsis of the struggles Mississippi was facing during the depression. the state was still reeling from the lingering widespread effects of the flood of 1927 and the Mississippi Valley drought of 1930. through the combined efforts of politicians such as Senator Pat Harrison and governors Martin Conner and Hugh White, as well as many other organizations, the state was able to stimulate the economy and pave the road for recovery. this well written book reveals the politics, the economy, the places and the people who persevered during the nation’s most trying economic era. oursouthernsouls.com; richelleputnam.net

THE BOBALOWS Release debut album, Flatlands “the foo fighters collide with jason isbell” writes one music critic describing the Delta’s newest musical offering, Flatlands by the bobalows. “that is somewhat of an accurate statement,” laughs vocalist Chris boykin who hails from the big town of inverness. recorded in Cleveland at Court Street recorders and mixed in nashville by Mike Stankiewicz (who has worked with isbell and other prominent artists), Flatlands consists of seven original songs with themes about the Mississippi Delta and the world’s current state of affairs. “We recorded almost thirty songs and chose the seven that appear on the album,” says boykin. “We’ll soon return to those remaining songs and much of that material will be considered for the follow-up album that will be released this summer.” Flatlands has received favorable reviews across the country. in addition to being a crisply produced, sleek recording, the album

delivers a solid offering with meaningfully, well written and executed songs. Order from amazon, itunes, apple Music, CDbaby, and other online retailers. thebobalows.com; info@thebobalows.com

DELTA MUSEUMS Impressive exhibitions scheduled for early 2022 the first major exhibition to be curated by the graMMy Museum® Mississippi team, MTV Turns Forty: I Still Want My MTV explores the history of the iconic music brand. a few of the highlights from the exhibitions: interviews and artifacts from the four remaining original MtV Vjs. interview footage, notes, sketches, and more about the idea for MtV from bob Pittman and john Sykes, members of the “initial 8” MtV executive team. the exhibition will remain on display until Summer 2022. at the Museum of the Mississippi Delta in greenwood, Freedom Rides: Journey for Change will be on display from february 3 through March 12, 2022. this exhibit focuses on one of the most prominent events in Civil rights history and includes images of the bombing of a greyhound bus outside of anniston, alabama; the journey from Montgomery to jackson; freedom riders at the greyhound bus Station in jackson; freedom riders at the jackson airport; mugshots; and freedom riders going to trial in jackson. Delta blues Museum in Clarksdale will feature Trumpet Records: Small but Powerful as a temporary exhibition. thanks to a grant from the Mississippi Delta national Heritage area, this exhibit will be on hand temporarily in the new year. founded by lillian McMurry and her husband Willard, trumpet records presented an infinite variety of Mississippi’s musicians making trumpet’s

recordings a cornerstone of Mississippi’s gift of music to the world. The Final Chapter of B.B. King’s Life was unveiled in june 2021 and is a permanent exhibition on display at the b.b. King Museum in indianola. the mission of the exhibition is to help fans understand the man and who he was and how he connected with them through performing. The Memorial Pavilion is the burial site of b.b. King on the grounds of the museum. the pavilion is built around the grave of b.b. King so people can come and pay their final respects to the music icon. the Martin and Sue King railroad Heritage Museum’s mission is to preserve the history of the railroad in Cleveland, bolivar County, and the Mississippi Delta along with providing an exciting environment for our visitors. the railroad Museum hosts tour groups of any kind and size and the staff looks forward to continuing to serve in this capacity in 2022. from classrooms of four-year-olds to college level, to assisted living groups, civic clubs or just a get together of old friends, the Martin and Sue King railroad Heritage Museum is a historic staple in the city of Cleveland. grammymuseumms.org, museumofthemississippidelta.com, deltabluesmuseum.org bbkingmuseum.org, clevelandtrainmuseum.com Delta Magazine 2022

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Delta Magazine 2022

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BOOKS

Buzzworthy Comments

Until I Am Free: Fannie Lou Hamer’s Enduring Message to America by Keisha N. Blain (Beacon Press ) Historian of the twentieth century and associate professor of History at the university of Pittsburgh, Keisha n. blain explores the ideas and life of Mississippian activist fannie lou Hamer in her recent work of nonﬁction Until I Am Free: Fannie Lou Hamer’s Enduring Message to America. is concise book, which is a perfect blend of history, commentary, and biography, describes the way Hamer, a sharecropper born in Mound bayou, Mississippi rose to activism during the Civil rights Movement and puts special emphasis on her 1964 speech before the DnC credentials committee. Hamer, a remarkable Delta woman, learned to read from the bible at church but was kept from voting because of a literacy test. She was gunned down, beaten, and harassed for her activism but continued to ﬁght. Her story is extraordinary, and her words are forever important. (liza jones)

Keisha N. Blain

We asked Facebook friends and Delta Magazine Fan Page Group Members to share with us the book they will be reading in 2022. o Melba Cunningham Detlefsen, retired financial advisor Eugene, Oregon

i plan to start the twenty-one book series by james Patterson, Women’s Murder Club, because it was recommended by a friend whose opinions on books, plays and theatre i respect.

The Storyteller: Tales of Life and Music by David Grohl (HarperCollins) David grohl’s autobiography, e Storyteller: Tales of Life and Music, is a wonderfully written inspiration. it’s uplifting and honest at the same time. grohl’s journey to becoming the entertainer and world-famous musician we know him to be today was no easy ride. He talks candidly of his childhood, his start, nirvana, the foo fighters, and family. it’s a very humble, grateful, and personable account of a life dedicated to music, but grounded in reality. as a writer, he has a genuine voice. is is an aboveaverage rock-star autobiography and is not typical of the genre because it’s much more personal and emotional than just delving into the music business. is book is not just for fans of grohl’s music. it’s a raw book for anyone looking to be inspired and deeply moved. (liza jones)

o Tom Xerri, business owner Greenville, Mississippi

Various by Wilbur Smith as they offer drama in a far off cultural/geographic setting. o Andrew Hood, emergency management Madison, Mississippi David Grohl

The Sentence by Louise Erdrich (HarperCollins) alas, the first of the pandemic novels are arriving. So it goes for The Sentence by louise erdrich. While most of erdrich’s novels take place in rural settings or in the past, this one is urban and more present to the times. and of course, there is the touch of the supernatural, common in all her works. tookie is a bookseller working at the author’s own bookstore in Minneapolis after serving a prison sentence during which she read voraciously. things take a turn when flora, one of the store’s most irritating customers, dies and starts to haunt the store at the end of 2019. Peopled with a rich cast of characters who undergo a stressful year together, this novel is funny despite the darkness and sadness of the events of 2020. it’s a step away from what she usually does, but erdrich delights her readers as always

o Sandra Perry, retired nurse Mentone, Alabama

They Called Us River Rights and Macon Fry because i like anything related to the Mississippi river. o Julianne Bailey, attorney Cleveland, Mississippi

Louise Erdrich

(liza jones)

For the Record Books Delta Magazine fans are currently reading

o Marilyn A. Brookes The Sinners by Ace Atkins

o Amy Phelps

Old Girls Network by Judy Leigh

o Jeanette Murphey Just Download the Boys by Ron and Clint Howard

o JoJo Catledge Staten Into the Delta by Greg Catledge

30 | january/february 2022

o Charles Cohn

The Generals by Winston Groom

o Van Savage

The Mediterranean Caper by Clive Cussler

o Jean Murphey Edwards

When Faith is Forbidden 40 days on the Frontline with Persecuted Christians by Todd Nettleton

o Joey Murphey

After Freedom by Hortense Powdermaker

Walter Anderson: The Extraordinary Life and Art of the Islander by robert St. john and anthony thaxton because i want to know more about Mississippi’s Van gogh.

the new Simon St. james book when it comes out, which i believe will be in March. She’s one of my favorite authors and i love her blend of mystery, feminist protagonists, historical detail and gothic spookiness.

o Donna Stowers Pittman It Ends With Us by Colleen Hoover

o Sandra Perry

This is the Fire by Dom Lemon

o Billy Tharp

Fear No Evil by James Patterson

o John Cox

Where the Devil Don’t Stay-Traveling the South with the Drive-By Truckers by Stephen Deusner

Dear William A Father’s Memoir of Addictions, Recovery, Love and Loss by David Magee (BenBella Books) award-winning columnist and author David Magee addresses his poignant story to all those who could benefit from better understanding substance misuse, so that his hard-earned wisdom can save others from the fate of his late son, William. the last time David Magee saw his son alive, William told him to write their family’s story in the hopes of helping others. Days later, David found William dead from an accidental drug overdose. now, in a memoir suggestive of augusten burroughs meets glennon Doyle, award-winning columnist and author David Magee answers his son’s wish with a compelling, heartbreaking, and impossible to put down book that speaks to every individual and family. Dear William inspires readers to find purpose, build resilience, and break the cycles that damage too many individuals and the people who love them. it’s a life-changing book revealing how voids can be filled, and peace—even profound, lasting happiness—is possible. (Special/DM Staff ) A Sportsman’s Journey by Donald C. Jackson (University Press) A Sportsman’s Journey lyrically and spiritually connects readers with the natural world. Donald C. jackson explores the rhythms and ways of hunting and fishing, particularly in america’s Deep South, and in so doing helps readers understand and find meaning in why hunters and anglers venture far afield. journeying alongside the author, readers will savor the magic of sunrises and the mystery of twilight. Hearts will quicken as deer drift from shadows and ducks circle a woodland pond. the ocean will challenge them as they fight large fish from the deck of a wave-tossed boat far out at sea. restless winds will whisper messages during a spring squirrel hunt on a Mississippi farm. bird dogs, old guns, old friends, and times shared with loved ones will remind anglers and hunters of those special, shared memories. this book reminds us that rediscovering, resurrecting, and celebrating these primal linkages are the real reasons we explore the world. (Special/DM Staff) The Recovered Life of Isaac Anderson by Alicia K. Jackson (University Press) Owned by his father, isaac Harold anderson (1835–1906) was born a slave but went on to become a wealthy businessman, grocer, politician, publisher, and religious leader in the african american community in the state of georgia. elected to the state senate, anderson replaced his white father there, and later shepherded his people as a founding member and leader of the Colored Methodist episcopal church. He helped support the establishment of lane College in jackson, tennessee, where he subsequently served as vice president. anderson was instrumental in helping freed people leave georgia for the security of progressive safe havens with significantly large black communities in northern Mississippi and arkansas. eventually under threat to his life, anderson made his own exodus to arkansas, and then later still, to Holly Springs, Mississippi, where a vibrant black community thrived. Much of anderson’s unique story has been lost to history—until now. in The Recovered Life of Isaac Anderson, author alicia K. jackson presents a biography of anderson and in it a microhistory of black religious life and politics after emancipation. (Special/DM Staff) DM Delta Magazine 2022

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Delta Magazine 2022

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ART

Lee Harper Meticulous and Mesmerizing Miniaturist Lee Harper has captured the essence of some the Delta’s most treasured places with uncanny detail and accuracy

BY SUSAN MARQUEZ PHOTOGRAPHY BY LOGAN KIRKLAND AND COURTESY OF THE ARTIST

T Harper’s exact replica of the old Pabst light fixture hanging in City Grocery is just one example of the detail she pours into every project. 34 | january/february 2022

he world of Lee Harper is magical and miniature. Her artwork consists of perfect scale models of treasured places in Mississippi, some still existing, while others exist only in memories. The work is mesmerizing, accurate in every detail.

lee didn’t plan to be a miniature artist. it started fifteen years ago when her son was a young boy. “i really have a disdain for elf on a Shelf,” admits lee. “but i guess i like the concept because at Halloween i thought it would be hilarious to have a skeleton doing something funny each day. i did it each day for a week leading up to Halloween, and my son loved it.” each day the scene got more intricate, and her husband posted them on facebook. “People loved it!” it became an annual tradition which she also shared with her niece and nephews. “but they got older and clearly didn’t care anymore, so i started doing more obscure history scenes and true crime events.” During that time, lee was painting commissions for others, but the miniatures she created were strictly for her. an active supporter of the arts in her adopted city of Oxford,

LOGAN KIRKLAND

lee was invited to submit a piece for the annual Christmas ornament auction at the Powerhouse art Center. “i wanted to make something really cool and different.” She created a miniature version of the Hoka, an Oxford institution owned by the late ron Shapiro. “it was a hit and several people wanted one. ever since, i’ve been going gangbusters!” the work lee does is sentimental. “i do a lot of commissions, and there are always interesting stories to the places that are important to people. i’m especially interested in buildings and places that no longer exist.” Many of her works can be seen

in her book, Tiny Oxford Volume 1: Mississippi Memories in Miniature. “Only one of the buildings in the book still exists today.” lee has now immortalized several iconic buildings in the Delta with her detailed miniatures. “i love the entire process. i put on many hats as i go, from researcher to investigator to genealogist then to maker, engineer, bricklayer, and roofer. i’m actually putting a roof on a building today!” each piece begins with research, which lee loves. “i seek out photos and even look at blogs posted by travelers. if i can find a google earth aerial image, that helps me

LOGAN KIRKLAND

One of Harper’s creations of Doe’s Eat Place in Greenville.

The screened doors at Doe’s show the artistic, technical, and sometimes mathematical ingenuity needed to accurately create each model to scale. Delta Magazine 2022

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Po’ Monkey’s Lounge outside of Merigold.

LOGAN KIRKLAND

An example of Harper’s History Bones dioramas.

36 | january/february 2022

outside, and the paint-worn tremendously because seeing the roofline gives me perfect The tiniest pack of cigarettes siding. as a maker, i had a proportions.” even then, lee you’ve ever seen. total blast with that project. admits, it’s a matter of for me, it is more fun to eyeballing something to make sure it looks focus on something old than something right. “there is a lot of trial and error brand new.” lee relies heavily on involved in what i do. i keep moving things photographs when making her miniatures, around until i feel good about it; then i and she called on photographer Will jacks, glue it.” who has a book out about Po’ Monkey’s. “i thought he may have what i needed in his the engineering aspect can vary. “i did a stash of photos, but, instead, he drove over miniature of the Standard life skyscraper in there and took photos for me. i had no idea jackson. it required me to use a lot of math, when i called him that he lived right down including fractions and angles. it was really the road from Po’ Monkey’s.” hard to do, but i was very happy with it.” another Delta icon lee has created in then there’s a building like Po’ Monkey’s miniature is Doe’s eat Place in greenville. juke joint in Merigold. there were no “that was interesting because i couldn’t find architectural plans, no CaD drawings, no a picture of the back side of the restaurant at blueprints. “it’s a rustic old building that has all. i looked all over for every picture of Doe’s had rooms added on to it over the years, and i could find, but who shoots the back of a that’s the beauty of it. i love it when restaurant? i called someone whose work i something is a bit rough and not so perfect. i love creating the aging tin, the signs posted really admire, euphus ruth, and asked if he

LOGAN KIRKLAND LOGAN KIRKLAND

The White Front Cafe in Rosedale and Jimmy “Duck” Holmes’s place, the Blue Front Cafe in Bentonia are two recent creations.

might have anything. He said he’d send me something. He went to Doe’s and took photos with his phone and sent to me, which was awesome. it saved me a four-hour trip!” the White front Café is another iconic building lee has created in miniature. “i have done countless commissions as well of places that hold special meaning to people, including their own homes. i am a working artist, and i love making things for other people. However, sometimes i get a wild hair and i want to make something that’s mine.” One of those is a recreation of a scene from a bill ferris photo. “there is a watermelon truck in the photo that is just like the one my great-grandparents had. i found a model truck, and i beat the hell out of it to give it the aged look in the photo. it was harder than you’d think—hats off to the maker of that toy truck!” after she gave the truck the appropriate dents, she painted it, giving it

the same patina as the truck in the ferris photo. next, she painted the religious signs that covered the truck. “i am fascinated by extreme evangelism and religious customs such as snake handling—not in a disrespectful way, i’m just really fascinated by it.” the bed of the truck is piled high with watermelons for sale. “i made those out of oven-baked clay. When i took them out of the oven, they looked exactly like white tictacs.” lee’s work can be seen in a new book called Buildings of Mississippi by jennifer baughn. “i did a miniature of Medgar evers’s home in jackson. i looked at photos to learn more about it and found it both fascinating and heartbreaking.” the book also includes her miniature of the Standard life building and Po’ Monkeys. to see more of her work, visit lee’s instagram page, @leeharperoxford or lee Harper on facebook. DM

Harper’s real life rendition of an image captured by Bill Ferris years ago. Delta Magazine 2022

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MUSIC

Bluesman Bobby Rush entertains the crowd at the historic Levitt Shell, a popular outdoor venue in Memphis, Summer of 2021.

BOBBY RUSH

A musical journey well-travelled WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY KAREN PULFER FOCHT

40 | january/february 2022

e sings about being in love with big, fat women, being henpecked and broken-hearted, about cheating women, chicken heads, and porcupine meat. Entertainer and at age eighty-eight, Mississippi bluesman Bobby Rush will say or do just about anything to make his audience laugh.

rush isn’t just a bluesman—he’s a comedian and the ultimate showman. “i take a chance and do things other guys wouldn’t dare to do,” rush recently said about his sometimes-racy performances. He recalls as a young child, being a clown, he learned quickly, “i had a gift that could get me through the door. i’m a comedian.” However, getting through the door wasn’t always something to laugh about. it didn’t mean he was always treated right. He tells stories of playing music for cheeseburgers on the Chitlin Circuit and having to play behind a curtain because the white audience that came to hear his music didn’t want to see his black face. “i didn’t want anyone to know i was hurting. i found a way to make that funny; i was funny from behind the curtain. i dealt with it through humor. i’d laugh about myself and about the garbage man stealing my wife.” His music is his escape. at eighty-three, he was honored with a long-overdue grammy. He looks like he’s in his fifties. He is tall, thin, and energetic. He has smooth skin and an even smoother voice. He is a consummate entertainer. rush was once called “King of the Chitlin Circuit,” a title he didn’t like and would have never given himself. He has felt disrespected many times in his lifetime. However, he pushed forward with over 350 recordings and a career where he plays over two hundred dates per year. He says that he has been blessed. “Music gave me some opportunities that i never would have had as a black man; i would never have gotten through those doors. emmett ellis jr. (his given name) would never have gotten through those doors.” When things are tough, he says he grabs his guitar and writes songs. “you write what you know about,” and rush knows the blues. Songs come to him often at odd times; “i will write on toilet paper if i have to.” He grew up in a household filled with plenty of love and spiritual grounding. “When i was a child, we were poor and we had no money, but we had love. love is a healer of all things.” His father, a preacher, was his mentor. “He was a kind man, and he was everything to me.” His mother was blond and blue-eyed. She was the granddaughter of a powerful white landowner in the area. in the segregated South, he said when the family

Fans press against the stage to see Bobby Rush who is a Memphis favorite. Rush has often played the Memphis Music & Heritage Festival. The festival celebrates the arts, music and the heritage of the South.

Rush (second from left) and well-known harmonica player Charlie Musselwhite (third from right) take a bow at the 36th Blues Music Awards held in Memphis at the Cook Convention Center in 2015. All the members of the Blues Hall of Fame that were present at the awards got on the stage.

Legendary bluesman, known as King of the Chitlin’ Circuit, Bobby Rush, signing copies of his new book I Ain’t Studdin’ Ya: My American Blues Story, at Grind City Brewery in Memphis. Delta Magazine 2022

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Rush, with longtime friend, actor Morgan Freeman.

Rush walks from his van to the stage at the Memphis Music & Heritage Festival. 42 | january/february 2022

was in public, she was referred to as his “babysitter.” as he learned about prejudice in the South, like many, he decided to venture north where he believed things were better. in Chicago, he met many of the great bluesmen who also chose to migrate north. legends like Howlin’ Wolf, albert King, Muddy Waters, and little Walter. He did what he had to do to learn his craft. When times were lean, rush sold hot dogs to help make ends meet. before leaving home at age fourteen, a good attitude and work ethic was instilled in him. Whether rush was chopping cotton, carrying water, pumping gas, or later in life, writing songs, he says he has always tried to do his very best. While he thinks it is important to write about the valleys and hardships in his new book I Ain’t Studdin’ Ya, he also wants to be an inspiration to others. He remains funny and upbeat. “i don’t have a chip on my shoulder about nothing or no one.” When rush looks back on his life, he

says he is thankful for what his life is. “When i think about what it could have been, i am so blessed. all along the way, i have asked god to lead me and teach me to do the right thing so that i make the right decision.” He never drank or used drugs. “there are some things i wish i hadn’t done, but if i had it to do over, i would change very little.” He played blues in the arkansas Delta before spending decades living in Chicago. He returned to the South in the early eighties, and when he is not touring, he comes home to a wife and family in Mississippi where he likes to go to church, fish, and spend quiet time alone. He believes Mississippi has always been underrated and has been unjustly given a bad name. throughout his lifetime, rush has been disappointed to learn that racial problems exist all over the world and not just in the South. it was in the north, in illinois, that he had to play behind the curtain. He realized that there was no escaping racism, even after his pilgrimage north. that gave him the blues. as for the future of the blues? the late b.b. King talked about how so many of the great bluesmen came from Mississippi. rush also feels that it is very important for people to know the history of blues music and where it came from. rush is one of the last elder bluesmen standing, and he says that it scares him to death. He is passionate about encouraging younger people to continue the tradition of blues music. “black kids don’t want to be part of the blues; they don’t identify with the origins of the blues.” Many white artists are now carrying the music forward. rush is thankful for that. However, he wants people to know where the blues came from, that it came from the black community. blues was born out of pain and in the cotton fields and the segregated South. He is thankful for his longevity after watching many of his colleagues lowered into the ground. While pulling on your heartstrings, he looks you in the eye and tells you that he has a problem; he pulls out his harmonica, lays down a blues lick, and continues, “i’ve got a problem with my woman, with my girlfriend and my wife. i love number one,

Bobby Rush, an octogenarian from Mississippi is proud to be a two-time Grammy Award winning artist. He has faced much adversity in his life and feels he can be a good role model; he has succeeded in spite of it all and believes others can as well.

and i love number two, but number three does things number one and number two won’t do.” far from the days he was selling albums from the trunk of his car, he is now enjoying the notoriety that is finding him at every turn. On a recent trip to Memphis, he couldn’t walk down the street without being stopped by people that drove by, including a trolley driver. rush is recognized nationally and internationally.

He once played to black-only audiences on the Chitlin Circuit. now, he’s built a national and international fan base that draws a diverse audience. He plays at auditoriums, wineries, and performing arts centers. He remembers the days when they wouldn’t hire a black man who sounded like himself, but they would hire a white man who sounded black. now, white guys and younger guys want to record with him. “now they see me as bobby rush, the bluesman, and they love me,” he says proudly. rush has been working with music students at rhodes College in Memphis where he was given an honorary degree this spring. He is now Dr. rush. for rush, one of the most meaningful things about being so highly acclaimed late in life, is that it allows him to help others. He says he can now contribute to his family and friends in ways he was never able to do before. “i can do things now for people that can’t do for themselves and for people who need it more than me.” as a two-time grammy award winner, the “international Dean of the blues” from Mississippi doesn’t have to work for cheeseburgers anymore. “I’m a blues-man, I’m a blues-man Ah, that’s all I know I sing the blues y’all, everywhere I go. DM Delta Magazine 2022

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T H A N K

Y O U

TO OUR GENEROUS SILVER, GOLD, LEGACY, AND PRESENTING SPONSORS FOR SUPPORTING

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Harrison's 1810 Oxford, MS

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MARIANNE GAYLE & MIKE & HENRY STEVE PARKS

Our mission is to promote and support adult education and work skills training for lower income adults in Mississippi.

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JENNIFER & DRAKE DONNA & JIM MARTIN BARKSDALE SUSAN & DAVID McCORMICK

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ROBINSONELECTRIC.BIZ Delta Magazine 2022

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2022

TOURISM SECTION Steamboat Cruises on the River • Take a Getaway to Natchez Four new Hotels to Visit

Delta Magazine 2022

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48 | january/february 2022

SAVOR THE

UNUSUAL

VISITGREENWOOD.COM Delta Magazine 2022

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Passengers begin to disembark the American Queen docked at the levee in Greenville on Lake Ferguson for a tour of the community.

50 | january/february 2022

Steam BOATS in tHe DeLta BY ANNE MARTIN

teamboats have been navigating the Mississippi River since 1812, operating out of New Orleans.

PHOTOS OBTAINED FROM DIGITAL MEDIA SOURCES

They were used to transport goods and people at a modest price and have been used in war, to ship cotton, and to carry ﬂoating palaces of entertainment. America’s rivers were once the highways of exploration, and steamboats were the way to get there. Riverboats continue to ply the waters, but the vessels are updated, modern, elegant, and once again docking in the Mississippi Delta.

e American Queen, the American Countess, and the American Duchess steamboats, owned by american Queen Voyages, are docking at terrene landing near rosedale and in greenville, bringing passengers from around the world to the Mississippi Delta. Once here, the travelers have a chance to explore and learn many things about the Delta. “e boats are wonderful; we love having them here, sharing our unique Delta history and seeing our downtown ﬁlled up with folks from around the world,” said Wesley Smith, executive director of the greenville Convention and Visitors bureau. “it is really fun to interact with them.”

Lead motor coach captain Abe McKinney goes over the daily schedule with local tour guides at Terrene Landing. Delta Magazine 2022

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AQVOYAGES.COM

Buses transport passengers of the American Countess, docked at Terrene Landing, to Cleveland to tour local museums and attractions.

The Grand Staircase on the American Queen harkens back to days of showboats that traveled the Mississippi River. 52 | january/february 2022

e American Queen began docking in greenville on a regular schedule in 2015. at first there were only a few stops each year. e Queen, along with the Countess and the Duchess, now visits about twenty-five times a year. e greenville visits are all in the afternoon, beginning at noon and ending around 4:30 pm When the boat docks at the city waterfront, more commonly known as the levee in downtown greenville, passengers disembark and get on buses to enjoy a Hop On Hop Off (HOHO) tour of various greenville museums and attractions. is tour is offered to every passenger on the boat as part of their cruise ticket. Stops include the Greenville Writer’s Exhibit inside the Percy Memorial library, the Hebrew Union Temple where they visit two exhibits (one on greenville and jewish history and another on World War ii), the 1927 Flood Museum, the Greenville History Museum, the E.E. Bass Cultural Arts Center and the antique Armitage-Herschel Carousel, and St. Joseph’s Catholic Church. e passengers also have the opportunity to visit various shops and stores in downtown greenville. e bus takes the passengers back to the levee where they can return to the boat. When the boats dock at terrene landing, they are in port from 8 am until 5 pm, but these passengers have a bit farther to go to get to their HOHO tour. Once the boats dock at terrene landing, the visitors board the buses for a drive to Cleveland, about thirty-five minutes from the dock. ey are taken to graMMy Museum® Mississippi, which is the first stop on the HOHO tour. from there, the tour takes them downtown where they can get off the bus to enjoy shopping or just strolling the street. ey also visit the Martin and Sue King Railroad Museum and Delta Chinese Heritage Museum at the Capps archive Center on the campus of Delta State university. e buses return to the graMMy, and the passengers then board a

AQVOYAGES.COM

The Mark Twain Gallery on the American Queen offers a place to relax, read and pay homage to the former steamboat pilot turned writer and humorist.

AQVOYAGES.COM

shuttle bus that takes them back to the boat at terrene landing. “We are thrilled to partner with american Queen Voyages to welcome thousands of visitors to the museum (graMMy) and Cleveland,” says emily Havens, executive director of graMMy Museum® Mississippi. When the American Queen and the American Duchess dock at terrene landing, passengers have the option to take e great Delta Music experience tour, a premium tour offered for an additional cost. ese guests are the first to arrive at the graMMy Museum® where they view a film titled Why Mississippi in the Sanders Soundstage theater followed by questions and answers. ey tour the museum before departing for Dockery Farms, a place considered hallowed ground for its connection to blues music, not only in the Delta but around the world. bill lester, curator at Dockery, talks with the passengers before sending them off to explore the site. e next stop is the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center in indianola. ere, passengers are greeted with gospel music before touring the museum. a stop at the famed Club Ebony is next; guests are treated to live blues music and a Delta catfish lunch with all the trimmings before heading back to terrene landing. in greenville, all three of the american Queen Voyages vessels offer a premium tour—Small towns, big legends: e Story of b.b. King—a Musical journey rough the Mississippi Delta. gospel music greets the guests as they enter before beginning their tour of the museum. a visit to Club ebony and a Delta catfish snack round out the visit before heading back to greenville. “b.b. King has long been a favorite part of the tours,” said Malika Polk-lee, executive director of the b.b. King Museum and Delta interpretive Center in indianola. “Some of the international passengers have been following b.b. for years. Coming here is a bucket-list item for them.” e visit to the b.b. King Museum is the only attraction offered to passengers from both the Port of greenville and the Port of terrene landing. Passengers visiting the museums, attractions, and local shops are also putting money into local coffers.

AQVOYAGES.COM

Award-winning, Broadway-caliber entertainment is presented every night during the cruise.

The Grand Saloon on the American Queen resembles a 19th century opera house with details modeled after Ford’s Theatre. Delta Magazine 2022

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Benjy Nelken, owner of the Greenville History Museum, shares local history with steamboat passengers.

Betty Coleman (right, standing) explains the history of the antique Armitage-Herschell Carousel at Greenville’s E.E. Bass Cultural Arts Center. Passengers visiting the 1927 Flood Museum in Greenville learn how destructive the Mississippi River can be while they visit this unique attraction housed in the oldest building in Greenville.

Valerie Rankin, right, prepares to share with guests Greenville’s rich literary history at the Greenville Writer’s Exhibit at the Percy Memorial Library. 54 | january/february 2022

The B.B. King Museum and Interpretive Center (right) in Indianola is a popular destination for passengers docking in Greenville and Terrene Landing. While there, the visitors can also visit Club Ebony (above) and enjoy the newest exhibit of B.B.’s personal vehicles.

“e boats are having a definite economic impact on the area,” says Polk-lee. “i don’t know how much, but we are seeing the benefit of their visits.” When the southbound voyages stop at terrene landing, the passengers get their first taste of Mississippi hospitality. “for so many of the guests, this is their first time in Mississippi, and when they dock in bolivar County, this is their first impression of the Delta and the state,” says Cade Holder, director of community programs with the Cleveland-bolivar County Chamber of Commerce. from the moment passengers step on the bus, they are immersed in local history and stories. tour guides from the Delta have been extensively trained and are on every bus. Docents and volunteers are stationed at each museum and attraction to provide guests detailed information about that particular stop. both ports have worked hard to accommodate the docking of the three boats. Most recently renovations were completed at terrene landing at the new terrene landing river Park. located just north of rosedale, the landing has always been there, but a major overhaul has made terrene landing an attraction for fishermen, hunters, sightseers, paddlers, and riverboats. e new park offers paved parking lot and wider boat ramp. e elevation of the park has been raised to help prevent flooding, still making it accessible during high water. Still to come are a covered pavilion, restrooms, sidewalks, handrails, lighting, and benches. because of these improvements, the american Queen Voyages

The Delta’s musical heritage strikes the right note with passengers when they visit the GRAMMY Museum® Mississippi in Cleveland.

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Passengers are greeted at the Martin and Sue King Railroad Museum by a volunteer engineer. They can also explore the caboose.

Dockery Farms (above and below) offers guests a chance to walk on what many blues historians consider hallowed ground in the place widely regarded as the birthplace of Delta blues music.

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added terrene to the itinerary of many of its southbound river cruises. e American Queen, the American Countess, and the American Duchess now make regular stops throughout the year at the riverside landing. e bolivar County board of Supervisors oversees the park. County administrator Will Hooker said the park is a real asset to the county and those visiting the area. He added it’s important to make the Mississippi river as convenient as possible to anyone who wants to visit. along with the board of supervisors, the 2.2 million dollar project was funded by the state of Mississippi, the federal government in the form of matching grants, and the Mississippi Department of Wildlife, fisheries, and Parks. terrene landing river Park is located just over the levee on terrene landing road. e three boats currently docking in greenville and terrene landing harken back to the glory days of eloquently appointed steamboats that cruised up and down the Mighty Mississippi. However, these boats have all the modern conveniences of home, plus more. eaters for broadway-caliber entertainment, dancing, lectures, and programs from riverlorians and demonstrations take place on each boat. Well-appointed dining rooms serve five-star meals. More casual dining can be found in the cafés or the on-deck grill and bar. a ladies’ lounge and a gentlemen’s card room offer spots for socializing. e flagship paddle wheeler of the company, the gracious and elegant American Queen, is the biggest of the three boats. as a matter of fact, it is the largest steamboat ever built with six decks accommodating 436 passengers. e American Countess is the newest vessel with space for 245 guests, and the American Duchess is a boutique-style floating hotel for 165 guests.

SANDRA STILLMAN

The American Queen strikes a majestic twilight pose in Lake Ferguson while docked in Greenville.

The American Countess turns around in the Mississippi River at Terrene Landing to continue her southboud journey.

e American Queen features a calliope, a nod to the grand days of the river showboats in the late 1800s. e calliope is a musical instrument that produces sound by sending a gas, originally steam or, more recently, compressed air, through large whistles. e calliope on the American Queen can generally be heard as she is entering or leaving port. On a recent docking in greenville, the grand lady could be heard playing the modern musical selections “incense and Peppermints” by Strawberry alarm Clock and “Smoke on the Water” by Deep Purple as she cruised towards the dock. e American Queen, the American Duchess and the American Countess travel up and down the Mississippi river. for the most part, the boats docking in greenville and at terrene landing are traveling between Memphis and new Orleans and vice versa. terrene landing dockings welcome vessels headed south, from Memphis to new Orleans, while greenville welcomes the cruises headed north, from new Orleans to Memphis. along the way, the boats dock at St. francisville, louisiana, natchez, and Vicksburg. Most of these sailings last eight to nine days. Others last longer, including a river cruise from Minneapolis to new Orleans. american Queen Voyages also cruises the Ohio, tennessee, and Cumberland rivers as well as the Columbia and Snake rivers. e COViD-19 pandemic halted travel on the steamboats for about twelve months before returning to the water with limited capacity. Since resuming the cruises, the company has taken extreme measures to keep the passengers and staﬀ safe. Passengers are required to show proof of vaccination, take a COViD-19 test before sailing, and wear masks while riding the buses on the HOHO and premium tours. tour guides in each port must also show proof of vaccination and be tested prior to boarding the buses with the passengers. it has been years, decades even, since steamboats have docked at these ports. e last known riverboat to dock at terrene landing was the Kate Adams, billed as a “new and elegant passenger steamer” in the august 22, 1889, edition of the Bolivar County Democrat. e popular boat carried folks in rosedale to arkansas City, just across the river, for baseball games; it also transported mail and carried soldiers to war and welcomed them home. e Kate Adams was an integral part of life in rosedale from her beginning in 1882 until she burned in 1927. greenville, however, has seen river traﬃc dock there for years.

The levee in downtown Greenville has been the dock for vessles of American Queen Voyages for almost seven years.

until the mid-1980s, the steamboats Delta Queen and Mississippi Queen made regular visits to the Queen City of the Delta. e Delta Queen, built in 1927, was the last surviving steam-powered overnight passenger boat traveling the Mississippi. She was designated a national Historic landmark in 1989. e Queen ceased service in 2008 when she was forced to retire from service when her congressional exemption from the 1966 Safety at Sea act expired. “ose two steamboats would race from St. louis to new Orleans and stop in greenville, and every other port along the way, and compete in games and activities for points,” says Smith. “Whichever boat reached new Orleans ﬁrst and had the most points had bragging rights until the next year.” renowned Delta writer bern Keating once said that to see america’s heartland, the river is the way to go and a steamboat is the only vessel to trust. for more information about booking a cruise on any of the american Queen Voyages boats, visit americanqueenvoyages.com or check with your local travel agent. DM Delta Magazine 2022

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NATCHEZ

800-647-6724 • www.visitnatchez.org

GRAND VILLAGE OF THE NATCHEZ INDIANS Ancient stories live on at the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians. Explore the original Natchez at this important mound site through interpretive signs and virtual experiences. Call 601.446.6502 or visit https://www.mdah.ms.gov/exploremississippi/grand-village-natchez-indians

Natchez Trails: Museum of the Streets Explore miles of architectural treasures and interesting history about this fascinating town. Natchez is also home to several markers on the Mississippi Blues Trail and the Mississippi Mound Trail. For more details call 601.446.6345 or visit www.visitnatchez.org/business/natcheztrails-and-walking-tour

Longwood Built in 1860, Longwood is the largest octagonal house in the South and one of Natchez's most iconic historic museum homes. Call 601.442.5193 or visit https://www.visitnatchez.org/business/ longwood-historic-home

DELTA URS DETO

Smoot’s Grocery This lively converted juke joint is one of the best places to find live music in Natchez! Visit https://www.visitnatchez.org/business/smoots-grocery

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Under the Hill District Home to one of the oldest bars on the Mississippi River, Under the Hill offers some of the best food and views Natchez has to offer. Call 601.446.6345 or visit Visitnatchez.org

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HARDIN COUNTY, TENNESSEE

Shiloh National Military Park

Tennessee River Museum

Over 5000 acres of Civil War history, 150 monuments, 200 cannons, 650 historic tablets plus Shiloh Indian Mounds, a National Historic Landmark itself, are located within park boundaries. Visitors Center includes museum, bookstore and orientation film. nps.gov/shil 1055 Pittsburg Landing Road, Shiloh, TN 38376

This historical museum is a tribute to the Tennessee River and its influence on the land, people and the heritage of the Valley. Beginning with the Moundbuilders, visitors can explore Pioneer life, the Trail of Tears, Ironclad ships, Steamboats and life today on the water. tennesseerivermuseum.org 495 Main Street, Savannah, TN 38372

DEELTTOAURS D

Tennessee Street Park Pickwick Landing State Park

Gated five-acre park that boasts two splash pads, two playgrounds (ages 5 & under and 12 & under), walking trail, outdoor exercise equipment, pavilions, and a 20-foot tall fountain as the focal point. cityofsavannah.org/parks-recreation 200 Tennessee Street, Savannah, TN 38372

Noted for its excellent water recreation the lake and river offer fishing, boating, swimming and a marina. Accommodations on the park include a newly remodeled Lodge and restaurant, cabins and camping. Guests can also enjoy golfing, birding, kayaking, disc golf, nature walks and yearround events. tnstateparks.com/parks/pickwick-landing 120 Playground Loop, Counce, TN 38326

The Outpost www.TourHardinCounty.org 495 Main Street, Savannah, Tennessee 38372.

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Located near Pickwick Landing State Park, the Outpost is tucked away from all the hustle and bustle of society. This general store restaurant offers dining, shopping, catering, lodging, event center, fishing supplies, outdoor beauty, and southern hospitality. Come enjoy this rustic southern dining experience. tourhardincounty.org 2175 HWY 128, Savannah, TN 38372

DESOTO COUNTY

Tanger Outlets With more than 70 stores to visit, Tanger Outlets in Southaven is a one-stop shop to buy something for everyone in the family. From children’s clothing to athletic gear, Tanger Outlets has it all.

Boutiques

Restaurants

Explore boutique offerings throughout DeSoto County, from Side Alley Gifts & Cafe to Stella Ivy Boutique and more. Whether you’re looking for gifts for kids, outdoorsmen or even foodies, DeSoto County has unique options for all.

Pizza, burgers and brews: Olive Branch is home to a culinary trifecta of locally owned establishments located just outside the town's historic square. Visit the talented chefs and teams behind SideStreet Burgers, OB Pizza Co., Mississippi Ale House and Backwater Brewery for a taste of DeSoto County. And, don’t forget dessert at City Hall Cheesecake in Southaven at Silo Square!

DELTA URS DETO

Outdoor Activities Visit Hernando DeSoto River Park in Walls to take in breathtaking views of the Mississippi River while you bike, walk or fish along its banks. Or, visit Snowden Grove to play a round of mini golf or have a friendly tennis match. Cedar Hill Farm offers outdoor family fun, as well, and is an attraction that should not be missed!

Events Landers Center in Southaven is leading into the future while remaining rooted in community with its massive expansion set to break ground in 2022. The expansion includes a convention center, full-service hotel with more than 200 rooms and a freestanding restaurant.

For more information, visit www.visitdesotocounty.com.

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GREENVILLE WASHINGTON COUNTY

Convention & Visitors Bureau

www.visitgreenville.org • 1-800-487-3582

Steaks at Doe’s Eat Place Around 1941, a partial recipe for hot tamales was given to Dominick “Doe” Signa and his wife, Mamie, which marked the beginning of Doe’s Eat Place. Once its storefront was a honky-tonk, but they’ve been serving up fabulous steaks, grilled shrimp and specialty salads, along with unmatched hospitality for decades now. In 2007, it was honored by the James Beard Foundation, with the America’s Classic Award. 502 Nelson Street • Greenville, MS • 662-334-3315

True Blues In the heyday of the blues, over 150 bluesmen lived within a 100mile radius of here. The Highway 61 Blues Museum chronicles the story of the Delta Blues and the musicians who helped make it famous and features memorabilia from B.B. King, James “Son” Thomas, Eddie Cusic, and many others. Greenville-Washington County is also home to eleven sites on the Mississippi Blues Trail. See live blues music at Mississippi Delta Blues and Heritage Festival, the longest running blues festival in America.

Hot Tamale Capital of the World Welcome to the Hot and Soul of the Delta. We’re home to the best hot tamales in the nation, as documented by the Southern Foodways Alliance in their Mississippi Delta Hot Tamale Trail. Greenville has been proclaimed as the “Hot Tamale Capital of the World.” The annual Delta Hot Tamale Festival is a fun-filled three-day event that celebrates local and regional artists, musicians, and tamale makers as well as some of the South’s most influential chefs and writers. 504 Central Street • Greenville, MS 662-378-3121 • mainstreetgreenville.com

DELTA URS DETO

The Birthplace of Kermit the Frog Long before a certain pig karate-chopped her way into our hearts, Muppet creator Jim Henson was born in Greenville and played on the banks of Deer Creek in Stoneville, just west of Leland. It was here that Henson created the character of that very famous frog. A visit to Henson’s birthplace is filled with the fun and creativity that produced some of the world’s favorite Muppet characters. 415 South Deer Creek Drive E • Leland, MS 662-686-7383 • frogbirthplace.com

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Take a Man-cation If you’re a guy and just want to get away with your buds, we’ve got the answer. Fishing, hunting, dining, nightlife, Delta Blues, festivals, flyways, the Delta Man-cation has it all. Come see why our area was named one of the top 200 places to live for sportsmen. Trails abound in Leroy Percy State Park and the Theodore Roosevelt National Wildlife Refuge. These wetlands projects offer great hunting, fishing, birding, wildlife viewing and hiking. Lake Ferguson and Lake Lee combine to offer more than 6,000 acres of choice largemouth bass, crappie, catfish and bluegill fishing.

WE’VE GOT THE CURE. Being cooped up inside can cause a real case of cabin fever and the 2021 Blues, so load up the family or friends and head this way for a dose of the good kind of blues. You can start at the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center—where social distancing is easy—and understand the tough road B.B. King traveled before becoming one of the most beloved musicians of all time. Ranked by Trip Advisor in the Top Ten Percent of all listed properties, the museum features films and exhibits that weave a fascinating story of an icon and his birthplace. Make sure to also stop at nearby Mississippi Blues Trail markers that further explain the important music heritage of the area. Crank up some B.B. tunes to get primed for a perfect day trip of fabulous meals from unique restaurants and shopping for locally produced gourmet food items. We can almost guarantee that the blues will be the prescription you need.

400 Second Street • bbkingmuseum.org

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CARROLLTON

VISIT CARROLLTON

Pioneer Day Festival

Step back in time with a visit to Historic Carrollton, Mississippi. Organized in 1834, the Town became a bustling community that prospered until the early 1900s. Once listed as an Endangered Site by the Mississippi Heritage Trust, Carrollton is now thriving in the 21st century. Download the free Walking Tour of Carrollton, MS app from The App Store or Google Play. VisitCarrolltonMs.com

Pioneer Day Festival honors the founding of Carroll County in 1833 with this annual arts and crafts festivals, as well as educational opportunities. The 2022 Pioneer Day Festival will be held on October 1. It is part of the annual Pilgrimage. 662.392.4810 | VisitCarrolltonMs.com

Merrill Museum

The Carrollton\ Community House

The Merrill Museum tells the story of Carroll County, from Indian days to the present. Exhibits include antique bottles, arrowheads, Joy’s Toys, and family items from the John S McCain family and author Elizabeth Spencer. It is open during the annual Pilgrimage and for group tours by appointment. Call 662-237-6910 for group tour info.

The Community House was born out of the Great Depression and was added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2019. It is the site of A Taste of Soup and Art Exhibit the first Saturday in February. Tickets are $10; available by calling 662-392-4810. For information about renting for an event, call Carrollton Town Hall at 662-237-4600.

DELTA URS DETO

Annual Tour of Historic Homes and Churches Historic homes in Carrollton range in date from 1828 to 1936. A selection of these family homes will be open for tours during the annual Pilgrimage. The 2022 Prilgrimage Home Tour will be held September 30 - October 1. Group tours can be scheduled by appointment. www.VisitCarrolltonMS.com or 662-392-4810 email: CarrolltonMsTours@gmail.com

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*Events held in Carrollton follow Covid-19 recommendations.

LOWER DELTA PARTNERSHIP

The Onward Store As you travel the Blues Highway, stop at the Onward Store for breakfast or lunch.

Carved Bears Tour the 18 chainsaw carved bears of Rolling Fork. Another one of these incredible works of art is created each October during the Delta Bear Affair.

Chuck’s Dairy Bar Enjoy a burger and shake at this Rolling Fork /Highway 61 stop that has been serving the Delta for over 50 years.

DELTA

DETOURS Muddy Waters' Blues Trail Marker Visit the birthplace of Muddy Waters, the “father of modern Chicago blues” in downtown Rolling Fork.

Mont Helena Experience Helen Johnston Harris’s and Henry Vick’s tragic love story in Mont Helena, the beautiful home atop a ceremonial Indian Mound. Tours are available by reservation. www.monthelena.com

Cotton Picker Art Shop for unique Delta folk art created by craftsman, Lee Washington in downtown Rolling Fork. Nourish Your Soul - Visit Rolling Fork. | #travelresponsibly | www.lowerdelta.org

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YAZOO COUNTY

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HELENA, ARKANSAS

www.VisitHelenaAR.com

King Biscuit Blues Festival The King Biscuit Blues Festival, founded in 1986, is one of the nation’s foremost showcases of blues music. Held for three days annually in October, tens of thousands of blues enthusiasts converge on historic downtown Helena, Arkansas to hear stirring and uplifting performances of an American art form on the banks of the Mississippi River.

Delta Dirt Delta Dirt Distillery is a family-owned craft distillery located right here in the Arkansas Delta. Master Distiller Thomas Williams has produced a hit with his Sweet Blend Vodka from local sweet potatoes and corn. Come discover the special blend of family history and hospitality in our tasting room on Cherry Street in Helena, AR!

Mississippi River Mark Twain once described the town of Helena, AR as "one of the prettiest situations on the Mississippi." Come and experience the Mighty Mississippi right from the banks of the Helena River Park. Camp out or Canoe right from Helena boat landing. Visit our website and find out more of what folks like Bill Dance have to say about the river and Helena!

Delta Cultural Center The Delta Cultural Center museum features exhibits on the Civil War, the settlement of the Delta region, and a live radio studio where King Biscuit Time is broadcast every weekday at 12:15pm. King Biscuit Time is the longest running blues radio show in the country.

Scan And Learn More Elaine Massacre Memorial ‘Not everything that is faced can be changed, but nothing can be changed until it is faced.’ James Baldwin. This Memorial honors those who died in the Massacre of 1919 in Phillips County, AR. 68 | january/february 2022

o t  w a tNatchez Ge

older than the state of Mississippi itself, natchez never disappoints

Historic, quaint, unique, cultural, eccentric— all are adjectives often associated with natchez. Swirled together, they create an appeal for travelers that makes it a perfect getaway for history and architecture buffs, culinary connoisseurs, and music and art lovers alike. and, if the need to just relax and recharge your batteries in a beautifully restored historic home is on the agenda—this is the place for you.

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PHOTOS OBTAINED FROM DIGITAL MEDIA SOURCES

BY CINDY COOPWOOD

KEN KOCHEY

Filmmaker Tate Taylor and his partner, film producer John Norris, have spent the last decade promoting Natchez—and Mississippi—as a premier film destination. In addition to bringing their own projects, including Get on Up and more recently, Breaking News in Yuba County, to Natchez—the Jackson native has also worked to showcase the area’s undeniable natural and architectural beauty through his production studio Crooked Letter Pictures.

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Where to stay

When visiting one of the most historic cities in the nation, you may as well book accommodations to match. For a unique experience, not to mention incredible dining options, we recommend staying in one of the many historic bed and breakfasts. Here are a few that caught our eye.

Dunleith Historic Inn Known for its grandeur, Dunleith dates back to 1856 and offers twenty-two luxurious rooms in addition to superior service and fine southern cuisine. The Inn boasts a serene setting with amenities including an outdoor pool and a top-notch restaurant and bar, The Castle Restaurant. Located in Dunleith’s original carriage house and stables, they offer everything from crabcakes and delicious southern bread pudding to craft cocktails and foreign beers. The property also still has many of the original buildings, including the carriage house, dairy barn, and more. dunleithhistoricinn.com, 601.897.6300

Choctaw Hall Choctaw Hall, circa 1836, features a blend of Greek Revival and Federal styles. The bed and breakfast level of the home boasts four separate queen bed suites, each with a private bathroom, connected by a comfortable living room and access to self-serve snacks, teas, and coffee. Conveniently located near numerous restaurants and attractions in downtown Natchez, Choctaw Hall is situated right next door to the City Auditorium and less than a minute’s walk from the world-class coffee shop, Steampunk Coffee Roasters. Guests also enjoy one of the best views of the river. choctawhall.com, 601.807.0196 72 | january/february 2022

The Guest House Inn & Restaurant The Guest House, circa 1840, was built for Samuel Newman—the grandson of Samuel Brooks, the first mayor of Natchez. Newman also served as a sheriff of Adams County. The Guest House is a 12,000-square-foot property furnished with period antiques and sixteen unique guest rooms. Guests are treated to complimentary wine and cheese each evening and the southern breakfast offerings cannot be beat. There is also a well-appointed courtyard to enjoy a late afternoon cocktail. A great starting point for sightseeing, the Guest House is just a short walk from some of the area’s best dining, live music, shopping, historic churches, and home tours in Natchez. guesthouseinnatchez.com, 601.445.6000

Natchez Manor A boutique bed and breakfast, this beautifully restored 1800s building is nestled in the downtown area. Sitting on the corner of historic Union and Franklin Streets is a boutique bed and breakfast with fourteen rooms. Their Southern Bistro serves weekday lunch and Sunday brunch, featuring mimosas, shrimp and grits, smoked brisket and many other signature southern dishes. Boasting the only rooftop bar in the city, there’s no better place to enjoy the cool breeze from the Mississippi and a custom cocktail, or unwind to live music downstairs at the Franklin Street Bar. natchezmanor.com, 601.442.4441

MISSISSIPPI fine food shopping music festivals

c a l e n d a r o f e v e n t s & m o r e at v i s i t n at c h e z . o r g

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Grand Village of the Natchez Indians For a deeper understanding of the history of this region this is a must-see on your trip to Natchez. The Grand Village is a 128-acre site featuring three prehistoric Native American mounds built by the area’s original inhabitants. There is a reconstructed Natchez Indian house and an onsite museum to tell the story of the Natchez Indians who inhabited these lands centuries ago. Two of these hallowed mounds, the Great Sun’s Mound and the Temple Mound, have been excavated and rebuilt to their original sizes and shapes. A third mound, called the Abandoned Mound, has been only partially excavated and the remaining unexcavated areas of the site will be preserved intact, representing a “time capsule” of sorts from the Natchez Indians’ past. The site also includes a nature trail, child-friendly activities, a visitor center and gift shop featuring Native American crafts. bit.ly/GVofNIM, 601.446.6502

Things to See and Do Take your pick—from a guided tour through the historic streets, to an afternoon studying the array of architecture, to a deeper look into the local history at the Grand Village to a cooking class.

Rosalie – Circa 1823 The architectural design of the historic home located on the Mississippi Bluff became the prototype for later mansions in Natchez and across the South. It was the headquarters of the Union Army during the Civil War. This National Historic Landmark was passed down by two loving families since its completion in 1823 until 1938, when it was purchased by the Mississippi State Society Daughters of the American Revolution. The home is exquisitely preserved and still holds many of the items belonging to the original owners. Regina’s Biscuits 101 This is one of our favorite Natchez experiences! Southern Chef, hostess and cookbook author, Chef Regina Charboneau has opened a cooking school in her home town of Natchez. Most famous for her legendary biscuits—now you can learn to make them yourself! Chef Regina’s cooking classes are located at her new studio, Regina’s Kitchen, 621 Franklin Street. Her bestselling biscuit classes are offered several days a week, and one of her most popular classes is the “Morning Brunch Class” is at 10 am on Saturdays. There are many other class options as well as booking a private class for a group by special appointment. reginaskitchen.com, 601.392.1756

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rosaliemansion.com, 601.446.5676

House on Ellicott Hill – Circa 1798 The House on Ellicott Hill is a prominent location in the early formation of our nation. The House stands remarkably preserved on a perch where General Andrew Ellicott first raised the American Flag over Natchez on February 27th, 1797. The house has been well-maintained and is one of the earliest structures built in Natchez. Go to natchezgardenclub.org/tours/ for more information. natchezgardenclub.org, 601.442.2011

The ghosts of several outlaws, Spanish soldiers and a man in a military uniform have been sighted still lurking around this famous watering hole.

Under the Hill Saloon Looking out over the Mississippi River, the Under the Hill Saloon inhabits one of the oldest buildings in the area and is renowned as a community favorite. It is an anchor of the oldest settlement on the Mississippi River, and rightfully earned its name being located at the bottom of a dramatic 217-foot bluff. It is the place to go to hear live Delta Blues music, sip a cocktail, catch the sunset over the river from the front porch rocking chairs and to soak in the fascinating history. Under the Hill Saloon on Facebook, 601.446.8023

The Towers The Towers was built over three distinct time periods beginning in 1798, with a fire destroying part of the home in the 1920’s. The current owners, have brought the home back to its 1850s appearance with the distinctive towers. The home is full of extensive decorative art and jewelry collections, from beaded purses to costume jewelry to museum quality glass of various colors. The Italianate Mansion also accommodates exceptional antique furniture, superb draperies, wall coverings, and beautiful antique laces on every window. There are multiple tour options including a tour of the mansion, a decorative arts tour and a “Jeweled Christmas” tour. thetowersofnatchez.com, 601.446.6890

Longwood remains the largest octagonal house in the U.S and was featured in HBO’s True Blood.

Auburn – Circa 1812 Natchez is a haven for architecture buffs, but there is one feature at Auburn that makes it a standout—the home’s spiral staircase stands entirely unsupported, a feat unmatched even in modern buildings. Constructed in Greek Revival style, Auburn is a National Historic Landmark and was the first major building in Natchez to follow an actual architectural plan. In the years leading up to the Civil War, several Natchez homes emulated the style of Auburn’s facade.

Longwood – Circa 1860 Construction of this grand, octagonal edifice began in 1860 but was halted in 1861 due to rising tensions over the Civil War. While the exterior of the Villa was largely complete, the home’s interior was left unfinished except for the lowest level until the twentieth century. Colloquially known as “Nutt’s Folly,” the property was deeded to the Pilgrimage Garden Club in 1970 by the McAdams Foundation and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1971. Unfinished rooms give insight to the meticulous construction methods, and original furnishings and tools are still intact, providing a unique experience as compared to other historic homes.

auburnmuseum.org, 601.442.5981

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Take a Guided Tour Open Air Tours. If you’re on a limited time-frame, a guided tour is always a great idea. There are several options choose from while in town. Open Air Tours (O.A.T) is an entertaining and informative 45-60 minute, narrated tour of the historic district of Natchez, covering twenty-five historic locations. Tours start at the Natchez Visitors Center running daily, morning and mid-afternoon. openairtoursntz.com, 601.334.8916

Downtown Karla Brown offers a variety of tours of Natchez. She offers Natchez history tours, ghost tours, bike tours of the Natchez Trace— and food tours. There is also a book tour which visits some of the places mentioned in the books written by Natchez native, Greg Iles, such Natchez Burning and Mississippi Blood. odowntownkarlabrown.com, 907.540.0001

Where to Eat and Shop

Southern Carriage Tours: Enjoy a horse drawn carriage-ride for a forty-five minute narrated tour through historic the historic district of Natchez. Departing from the corner of Canal and State streets, they provide a little history, a little humor, and a good time. Southern Carriage Tours on Facebook, 601.431.7007

After a day of shopping downtown one needs sustenance— from chef driven restaurants to next-level burger joints, Natchez will have just the place to suit your mood. Guests are welcomed by the iconic sign outside Fat Mama’s.

Fat Mama’s Tamales Fat Mama’s Tamales is a local favorite with an atmosphere that is as festive as the food. Known for the best tamales, chili and “Knock-YouNaked” margaritas around, Fat Mama’s is an experience not to be missed. They also offer an exciting selection of other signature dishes, such as links of boudin, fire and ice pickles and more eclectic and flavorpacked dishes. The restaurant has a large interior dining room, but guests can dine on the outdoor deck if the weather is nice.

Magnolia Grill Overlooking the mighty Mississippi at Natchez Under-theHill, Magnolia Grill not only has one of the best views of the river, but also a wide array of entrées to satisfy every palate from succulent steaks and seafood to highly acclaimed burgers and more. Guests can enjoy both lunch and dinner on the sun porch that offers spectacular views of the sun setting over the Mississippi. magnoliagrill.com, 601.446.7670

fatmamastamales.com, 601.442.4548

The Castle Restaurant & Pub The Castle Restaurant & Pub is in Dunleith’s 18th-century carriage house and stable. This architectural gem, built to resemble a castle, provides an incredible dining experience. The Castle serves a range of delectable southern cuisines prepared by acclaimed chefs while also boasting the most extensive wine list of any restaurant in the state. dunleithhistoricinn.com, 601.897.6300 78 | january/february 2022

Rolling River Reloaded Rolling River Reloaded offers a variety of southern classic dishes with a creative twist to give guests a truly “Soulful Southern Experience.” Packed with flavor, each dish is prepared with care and inspired by rich, generational history. With dishes such as barbecue rib tips, grilled shrimp and southern egg rolls they aim to give customers a unique experience and to give visitors a warm welcome to the south they will never forget. Rolling River Reloaded on Facebook, 601.653.0747

Slick Rick’s Café Slick Rick’s Café is a great place downtown to stop for lunch or dinner. They offer a wide variety of dishes on the menu, but the burgers are what they’re known for—and there is always an interesting Burger of the Month! Slick Rick’s uses only organic, kosher, and gluten free spices and is famous for bringing out the flavor of food, not masking it. You also want to save room for dessert. The bakery case is always full of housemade cupcakes, cheesecakes, and more.

The Carriage House Located on the grounds of National Historic Landmark, Stanton Hall, this elegant dining establishment specializes in Southern fare with famous staples including fried chicken, fresh Gulf seafood and buttery silver dollar-sized biscuits. The menu also offers a Blue Plate lunch Wednesday through Friday, and specials that vary each month including soups and sandwiches. The Carriage House is owned and operated by the Pilgrimage Garden Club. Go to natcheztracetravel.com for more info The Carriage House Restaurant on Facebook, 601.445.5151

Darby’s It may be the best little fudge factory in Natchez, but that’s not all. Darby’s is also known for its unique gifts, including clothes, a large selection of Julie Vos jewelry, home decorations and more. Darby’s uses the finest ingredients including fresh cream, butter and homegrown Natchez pecans in their delicious fudge—you’ll want to be sure to take some home with you! darbysfamousfudge.com, 601.446.9737

slickricksfoods.com, 601.445.9900 Delta Magazine 2022

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Upcoming Events January 2022 to May 2022 Natchez Literary and Cinema Celebration Begun in 1990, this celebration annually presents a theme-based lecture series enhanced by films, workshops, exhibitions, book signings, concerts, discussions, and more. The conference is made possible in part by the Mississippi Humanities Council. Now in its 32nd year, the NLCC is excited to bring the humanities to Natchez again this February.

Olivina Boutique With a beckoning pink door that you cannot miss, this one’s for the girly-girl at heart! Olivina is a specialty home and gift boutique full of whimsical and wonderfully unique gifts, home accents, and holiday decor galore. The meticulously curated collection is unapologetically feminine but will keep you coming back! olivinanatchez.com, 601.653.0667

Natchez Festival of Music A collection of the country’s most prominent entertainers celebrates the arts in Natchez for special musical events throughout the month of May, inviting community members and visitors to enjoy a series of live performances. Guests can experience special shows from musicians spanning genres, including blues, rock and roll, theater, and much more throughout the fall and spring seasons. Mudbug Music Festival The inaugural Mudbug Music Festival kicked off in May 2021. This brandnew annual festival features incredible live music from country music superstars, fresh crawfish and a wide variety of food vendors complemented with cold beer, drinks and cocktails along the Mississippi River on the Natchez Bluff. Guests can also take to the streets Friday night for Smoot’s Epic Street Party with food, live music, drinks and fun for the whole family. Natchez Spring Pilgrimage In a tradition dating back to 1932, Natchez opens the doors to its exquisite historic homes to welcome travelers from across the world. The celebrations include tours led by costumed hosts in 19th-century character, theater performances, unique presentations and live music, all focused on the city’s stunning historic homes. The spring event takes place in March and April, with Fall Pilgrimage in September and October. visitnatchez.org

Mother’s Natchez Mother’s Natchez is your source for natural home, health, and beauty products! As an apothecary, their mission is to promote a holistic lifestyle and honor the natural world. Located upstairs above Conde Contemporary Art Gallery, Mother’s Natchez has many products that you can and will feel good about! mothersnatchez.com, 601.228.1151

ArtsNatchez ArtsNatchez is appropriately named as it is the hub for works by various Natchez artists and craftsmen. The art gallery is situated in the heart of downtown Natchez on Main Street. Once you spend a few minutes browsing through the local artwork, you’ll see that each artist has a deep love for Natchez and expresses it in their work. If you’re a collector of original Mississippi pieces, be sure to add it to your shopping itinerary for jewelry, paintings, sculptures, pottery, and more. artsnatchez.com, 601.442.0043

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A Tribute to Levon Helm APRIL 9, 2022 | 10 AM-9 PM

featuring members of The Band and Levon Helm Band

The Cate Brothers • Rodge Arnold • Arkansas Bros. Duane Stevens • Bailey Heﬂey • Colin Linden • Fonky Donkey Mother Hubbard & the Regulators • Live Wire Band

MAIN STAGE, CHERRY ST, HELENA, AR

TICKETS:

deltarootsmusicfest.eventbrite.com

PLUS!

Levon’s Levee and Lake Bike Ride ($20) • Arts & Crafts & Food Vendors Delta Cultural Center’s Beans, Greens and Cornbread Competition Lil’ Sprouts Acre Kids Area • Custom-painted Drumhead Rafﬂe Harmonica Workshop • Delta Roots Back Yard Grillin’ Contest

OCTOBER 5-8, 2022 Six stages • 70+ artists • Tent City Flour Power 5K • Blues Symposium Kansas City-sanctioned BBQ Contest Tour da Delta Bike Ride Blues, Bloodies & Biscuits Bar Arts & Crafts / Food Vendors and MORE!

w w w.KingBiscuitFestival.com

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Scan To Experience The Music

40 + LOCAL RESTAURANTS

30 LIVE MUSIC EVENTS EVERY WEEKEND

28 HOTELS

1 APP

HALFWAY BETWEEN MEMPHIS & NASHVILLE IN THE AMERICANA MUSIC TRIANGLE Delta Magazine 2022

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HOTEL Roundup Four new Hotels have popped up in and around the Delta adding to the local landscape of options for lodging in the area. With unique amenities and dining options the two new boutique options and two larger properties have something for every traveler.

Lyric Hotel West End the lyric Hotel West end is part of the new West end District complex in Cleveland. the central hotel on the expansive property, the lyric, provides a modern, but relaxing atmosphere for guests. there are sixty-three rooms including two executive king suites with living areas and three king parlors with a king bed and queen sofa sleepers for convenience. the central courtyard is a favorite gathering spot with a beautiful pool and patio. in the spacious lobby is the lyric Café with a coffee bar that serves Starbucks coffee and beverages as part of the We Proudly Serve Starbucks™ program. Owner, Dinesh Chawla, recently brought the iconic brand to the hotel. “Starbucks is a brand that really resonates with people,” he says. “it really rounds out our hotel offerings, and it allows us to provide people with something we know they already love: Starbucks.” there are also two restaurants on location to serve all your dining needs from morning to night. the farmhouse table, a locally inspired casual restaurant which serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Sit and stay a while, indoors or on the outdoor patio. for more sophisticated dining, visit 8 West grille, with a full modern bar, and a menu that is updated regularly which includes craft cocktails, fresh seafood, steaks, an array of dinner salads, appetizers and more. for large events, such as wedding weekends, the West end District also offers other venues including the Statehouse. this classic two-story mansion features thirteen suites, a wraparound balcony and veranda, and an elegant double parlor. this parlor may be set up as either a drawing room or dining venue accommodating over two hundred people for special events.

PHOTOS OBTAINED FROM DIGITAL MEDIA SOURCES

1300 Highway 8 West, Cleveland 662.441.3901, westendcleveland.com/lyric-hotel

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NICK MCGINN NICK MCGINN

KAREN PULFER FOCHT

the Memphian, a boutique hotel located in Midtown Memphis’ Overton Square, is bringing a colorful new hospitality experience to Midtown Memphis. the hotel, which opened last May, is a member of tribute Portfolio, and features 106 guest rooms including nine suites as well as on-property dining, a 24hour state-of-the-art exercise studio, curated retail experience, and rooftop event space. at the Memphian, the attention is in the artful details mixing timeless architecture with cleverly layered modern furniture and accessories. enjoy the plush comfort of a king or queen guest room featuring luxurious pillow top beds and a stylish bathroom stocked with cozy bathrobes and exclusive toiletries. junior studiostyle suites include the addition of a sitting area, while in the King suite, guests can enjoy separate living and sleeping spaces. the Memphian is home to two unique food and beverage concepts, which have quickly become destinations enjoyed by locals and visitors alike. the lobby level eatery, Complicated Pilgrim, serves daily breakfast and dinner with world-class service as well as the neighborhood’s only full-service coffee-to-cocktail bar featuring lavazza Coffee. enjoy local and regional fare from a new perspective, where special attention is paid to fresh ingredients and partners who share the hotel’s commitment to quality. the hotel is also home to a rooftop bar, tiger and Peacock. the venue showcases ingredient-forward cocktails, approachable bar fare ideal for sharing, and some of the best views Midtown Memphis has to offer.

NICK MCGINN

The Memphian

21 South Cooper Street, Memphis, Tennessee 901.276.9311, marriott.com

The Hotel Louis (COMING SOON) in april 2022 the destination town of Wilson, arkansas will welcome Hotel louis, nestled in the heart of Wilson’s town Square, this brand new luxury boutique hotel will combine the city’s signature tudor-style architecture and ever-present Southern charm for an experience unlike any other in the region. the sixteen-room boutique hotel will feature three suites with ample amenities, including in-room terraces and complimentary breakfast. in the evenings guests can sip on a specialty cocktail at

the bar, enjoying the Delta sunset while lounging on the rooftop deck. there will also be an upscale lobby bar offering mixology classes and wine tastings. the Hotel louis looks forward to inviting everyone to come stay a while in Wilson. 1 Park Street, Wilson, Arkansas 870.655.6001, thehotellouis.com Delta Magazine 2022

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Hotel 27 named in memory of the historic flood of 1927 greenville’s new boutique hotel, Hotel 27, is serving a dual purpose, it’s not only providing a unique lodging experience for visitors, but is also preserving some of greenville’s most important historical buildings. it is located in the old levee board building complex which consists of three buildings originally built in late 1800s and early 1900s. Preserving a downtown landmark, while operating a successful and unique hotel for visitors during their stay in greenville is the goal of this very Delta, Southern-style property. Modern touches have been added without disturbing the italianate style of the hotel. Modern-day guestrooms boast the comforts of home, each with a convenient beverage station, microwave, and mini-fridge. the newly-remodeled fitness center and business center are wonderful additions that allow guests the opportunity to work out and conduct business, all under the same roof. Owned and operated by Main Street greenville, Hotel 27 is a definite alternative to the more conventional larger hotels many people are accustomed to. With only 36 rooms and an attractive courtyard

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there is a more quaint atmosphere for those looking for a more custom experience. With the building’s deep roots to greenville’s historic downtown district, Hotel 27 is certainly a genuine part of the city’s culture and heritage. 211 South Walnut Street, Greenville 662.332.6900, hotel27.org

Delta Magazine 2022

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Photo courtesy of Robert Jordan

THE UNIVERSITY OF MISSISSIPPI MUSEUM PRESENTS

Jacob Hashimoto | The Other Sun AUGUST 17, 2021 – AUGUST 20, 2022 Exhibit is on view at both the University Museum and Rowan Oak. Jacob Hashimoto playfully balances the dichotomies he observes in landscapes and constructed virtual worlds.

The University of Mississippi Museum and Historic Houses Tues.–Sat. 10 a.m.–4 p.m. Closed every Sunday and Monday along with most University Holidays. For assistance related to a disability call 662.915.7073. MUSEUM at 412 UNIVERSITY AVE • 6 6 2 . 9 1 5 . 7 0 7 3 M U S E U M . O L E M I S S . E D U | R OWA N OA K .C O M

ADMISSION

IS FREE

Located right in the heart of Oxford

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Walking Back Time

Modern-day hunter-gatherers of artifacts are helping preserve the Delta’s history RORY DOYLE

BY KATIE TIMS

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Top left: The remains of a hoe, from the collection of Bill Dossett. Bottom right: A bear claw with a hole drilled in the top, from the collection of Tommy Goodman.

his man walks back a thousand years, almost every day. Out the front door and down a path straight into long ago, John Meek traverses a vast timeline—weather permitting, of course. “In the season I walk eight or ten miles a day, at least,” he says. “I go whenever I can get out and see them in the dirt.”

them: native american arrowheads, spear points, stone tools, pottery, pipes, beads, bone implements, game pieces, ceremonials, weapons, pendants, and everything required for survival, society, culture. john paints landscapes, and he travels the backroads of the Delta in search of places to photograph. along the way, he stops and hunts for native american artifacts. fifty years of collecting line the walls of john’s house, a stately century-old structure built on land his family homesteaded along the west bank of the tallahatchie river almost two hundred years ago. He walks nearby farm fields in search of stone points, pottery, tools, jewelry, game pieces, and other remnants of the native americans who inhabited the Mississippi Delta for thousands of years. Delta Magazine 2022

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RORY DOYLE RORY DOYLE

RORY DOYLE

A Condensed History

KATIE TIMS

“We knew animals were living in the yazoo basin—mastodons and other Pleistocene age (this was the transition from the last ice native americans lived here for thousands and thousands of years. age to a warmer climate) animals, and we knew indians hunted them this was confirmed in the 1990s when geomorphologist roger here because we found their tools,” says jessica Saucier, who worked for the Corps of engineers, Crawford, archeologist and southeastern director worked with archeologists to accurately date of the archeology Conservancy, a forty-year-old sites in the lower Mississippi river Valley where non-profit organization.” We’ve just never been ancient projectile points were found. together, sure to what extent they lived here. it stands to they re-wrote conventional wisdom by linking reason that the more ten-thousand-year-old tools modern geologic mapping with in-the-field we find, the more it appears they were here. We discovery. still don’t know how long they stayed here or what it’s complicated, but Saucier’s theories rested their camps or houses looked like.” on the foundation of climate changes, melting back then, the Mississippi Delta was covered glaciers, meandering creeks (referred to as by lush grass, hardwood trees, and clear running “braided streams”), and the wandering flow of streams. Wildlife, birds, and fish were varied and the Mississippi river. Saucier tied geologic abundant. the backdrop was ideal for the ancient features to the abundant presence of Dalton-era hunter/gatherer, semi-nomadic bands of people projectile points, which were made between who camped on high sandy terraces near water, 9,900 and ten thousand years ago and found at moving according to conditions and availability campsites on the arkansas side of the lower of food sources. Mississippi river Valley. before his work, it was Nikki Mattson and Jessica Crawford Starting about five thousand years ago, people thought those landforms dated somewhere in the Mississippi Delta became more sedentary and lived in one around five thousand years ago. recent lidar typographical mapping place for longer. Pottery making, community building, and mound in Mississippi underlined Saucier’s findings—native americans lived construction began. then about one thousand years ago, native here at least ten thousand years ago. 92 | january/february 2022

Various utilitarian pots and vessels.

An archaic point.

americans began cultivating crops, and that ushered in major changes including larger towns, political organization, tribal formation, societal hierarchy, ceremonies, burials, and advanced tool making. explorer Hernando DeSoto arrived in the Mississippi Delta around 1540, thus initiating the europeans’ first contact with the region’s native americans. Waves of europeans soon followed. at first there was cooperation and trading—mostly, the indians trading furs and raw materials for the europeans’ manufactured goods, which included metal objects and beads (items often found among the remains of native american campsites). Over the next three hundred years, as we know, the Delta’s native americans were decimated by disease, warfare (among themselves and in alliance with europeans), and displacement.

RORY DOYLE

can do what you want with your own land, as long as you don’t disturb human remains—whether they’re marked or unmarked. it is also illegal to have funerary objects, meaning grave goods. anything on county, state, or federal land is off-limits.” “there are so many sites around here that it’s unreal—there are hundreds, if not thousands,” says tom Steele, who lives in Cleveland and hunts for artifacts with his wife, terry. “usually, we hunt in the early spring, right after they till the ground,” collector jimmy goodman says. “Once you get a rain on it, washing all the little dirt particles away, then things just pop up—like they’re growing.” Of course, collectors appreciate the beauty of the objects they find. they may also attempt to appreciate the culture of the people who made it. However, unless professional Conserving the Past archeologists have the opportunity to identify the age of the artifact, record and so we arrive back at john the location, and perhaps conduct Meek’s impressive collection. it’s just radiocarbon dating, the story is lost. one of many in the Mississippi Delta. Obviously, there’s no way to research from the young child with one every single piece. but, collectors broken spear point to the museum know when they find something that with an assemblage of the best pieces could be important to piecing from multiple collections, there are together the past. millions of native american artifacts “if you don’t pick it up, it’s going floating around in display cases, John Meek looking over his vast collection. to get broken and busted—it will be long gone,” says lee Hazlewood, shelves, buckets, drawers, boxes, barrels, and pockets. who has a vast collection of native american artifacts from the Delta. the native american graves Protection and repatriation act was “there are a lot of collectors out there who appreciate the culture and passed in 1990. it not only protects the graves of native americans, study it, who share their finds with archeologists. the professionals but it also stipulates that institutions receiving federal funding— aren’t going to take stuff away from you. they just want to know universities and museums, for example—return bones and artifacts what you’ve got, where you found it, and what context it was in.” associated with burials and ceremonies to the tribes. in 1999 behind her house near the tallahatchie river, Crawford as for that broken spear you spotted on the side of the turn row, found an old spear, known as a “Coldwater” point (10,000 to is it okay to pick it up? 11,000 years old). She recorded it with the Mississippi Department “if you are on private land and you have permission from the of archives and History, and a site number was listed for the find. landowner, you can pick up and surface collect,” says Crawford. “you Delta Magazine 2022

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For several decades, John Meek has walked many miles hunting for artifacts. Above is a portion of his extensive collection of what the Native Americans who lived in the Mississippi Delta thousands of years ago left behind.

also, because the point was so old, it went into the State of Mississippi’s Paleo indian database. because of that recording, a researcher from Mississippi State was able to pinpoint the find and contact Crawford. “He and another paleo indian expert came to my house, and we went out there. they’ll be back to do some testing soon,” Crawford says. “that’s how it should work—even for a nonprofessional. you find it, and you record the location and artifacts with the state, and eventually, it may be very helpful.” far too often, however, collections are not organized or recorded. Some have been handed down through generations. for those, there is still some scientific value, according to nikki Mattson, field representative for the archeology Conservancy. 94 | january/february 2022

“even if these collections don’t have provenience or the context, they can still be used,” she says. “We can’t learn much about how the people lived, but they can still be studied.”

Future Discoveries Collecting artifacts in the Delta used to be easier, in the days before land leveling and no-till farming. One could spot the high spots, the sandy places, and the darkened soil that signaled former human occupation. back then, not as many of the historic native american mounds had been ground down into invisibility. With so many changes to the landscape, are there still major native american discoveries to be made in the Mississippi Delta? “Oh yes!” Crawford answers.

RORY DOYLE

She points to troyville earthworks, a late Woodland period native american mound complex in louisiana. its mounds were leveled and the town of jonesville built on top. “i had written off that site,” Crawford says. “but in the 1990s and early 2000s archaeologist joe Saunders and other archaeologists started looking at archaic mounds and doing soil cores around the town. they found that there are several feet left of the mounds.” Such was the case at the Carson Mounds in Mississippi, which were occupied from 1200 to 1600 aD. this vast, mile-long complex north of Clarksdale was mapped in 1894, indicating there were seven large mounds, eighty small mounds, and a humanconstructed embankment. five of the seven mounds remain. in

the 2000s, land leveling uncovered several human graves, which led to the professional, eleven-year excavation of a small piece near “Mound a.” Crawford believes there are more places like the troyville earthworks and Carson Mounds. “they’re looking at sites where it looked like mounds were leveled, but geophysical equipment shows that there are actually a few feet left,” she says. “a lot of times indians would live on a surface for hundreds of years before they built mounds. Sometimes they would bring fill in, level it off, and live on that for a while before they built mounds. those parts of these sites are left.” that’s why she remains optimistic. “We’ve lost a lot, but there’s still a lot left to discover,” she concludes. Delta Magazine 2022

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Jimmy and Tommy Goodman display some of their recent finds. The two have been artifact hunting since they were children.

Historical Perspective

TOMMY GOODMAN AND JIMMY GOODMAN James Goodman worked for the Mississippi Agriculture Department back in the 1950s and in his spare time farmed a small plot of land near his home in lexington. On trips to the farm, james dropped off his two young sons—tommy and jimmy—at a creek to let them play. and that’s where those boys developed a love for native american artifacts. “it wasn’t a free-flowing creek,” recalls jimmy, a pharmacist who lives in Cleveland. “it was more of a ditch with water in it, but it was clean around it. it didn’t look snaky. We played around the edges and waded the water. Sometimes you’d feel something poke your foot. usually when you dug down in there, you’d find an arrowhead.” tommy is a retired architect who lives in Carrolton and is an artist. While living and working in birmingham, alabama, he found his most precious native american treasure—a pendant made from a bear’s tooth—along the black Warrior river. He also found a 96 | january/february 2022

Clovis point. as for his Mississippi Delta finds, tommy’s favorite is a large intact celt (stone, axe-like tool) made out of gorgeous green rock. that was found near Satartia, at a site that in the 1970s was cleared and farmed for the first time. “it had all these little creeks and streams going through it, so you could find stuff everywhere. i mean it was perfect!” tommy says. “We’d go over there and come home with so many points that it was not even funny.” that site has since been replanted with trees, but the goodmans still search there and at other places in the Delta. both brothers have expansive collections—cooking stones, celts of all sizes, pottery, jewelry, game pieces, thousands of points, and tools (bone and stone). jimmy’s favorite piece is a punch made from a deer’s antler. “i think it’s more exciting now when i find something than when i was a kid,” jimmy says. “you find so many pieces and ones that are broken, so when you find one that’s in good shape, it’s real exciting.”

PHOTOS KATIE TIMS

if you care to learn more about native americans in the Mississippi Delta, there are extensive collections on display and experts who are glad to share information. artifact collections are featured in several museums, including those at universities.

RORY DOYLE

JOHN MEEK John Meek, an artist who lives near Webb, is an avid collector. His artifact assemblage is amazing—something one just has to see to appreciate. “a friend of mine from birmingham, he was a salesman for a company that sold all the chemicals you can’t pronounce—the ones you see on railroad cars,” john recalls. “He was into arrowhead hunting, and he got me to walking around the Mound bayou mounds. then, i had a friend who bought a place down the road that had a big [native american] site right on the river, and i started finding good stuff. i got it real bad then. that was fortytwo years ago.” john searches for artifacts almost every day and swears his painfree back is due to so much bending over to pick up stuff. He never tires of the looking. “you go and go and go and go and not find anything. but hope springs eternal,” he says. “When you finally find that good thing, it’s usually something special. you’ve put all that time, and it’s like it rewards you with a celt or a perfect point.” and he has plenty of both, plus so, so much more. When asked about his best find, john picks up one point, then a celt, then a discoidal, then another point. Suffice it to say, john has lots of favorites in his massive collection. One of his favorite stories, however, is about a blue quartz point found in two parts, ten years apart. as for what he plans for the collection, john offers a clear answer. “i’m going to give it all back to the indians,” john answers. “i mean, i feel bad about what we did to them. We came down here and ran them off. We took it over, but that’s just the way the world was back then. that’s why when i get too old to keep looking, i want to give it all back.”

RORY DOYLE

John Meek at home surrounded by his museum-quality pieces.

More of Meek’s extensive collection of arrowheads, bird points, spearheads and knives. Delta Magazine 2022

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Tom and Terry Steele have an impressive cache of artifacts. Above are a few of their finds.

An unusual and yet undefined artifact, which apparently had deep meaning to its owner by the various markings. 98 | january/february 2022

PHOTOS KATIE TIMS

TOM AND TERRY STEELE Tom Steele is a retired electrician who lives in Cleveland with his wife, Terry, who works at the courthouse. tom used to deer hunt with a buddy who got him interested in looking for Civil War artifacts, which naturally led to searching for native american pieces. now, tom and terry spend a great deal of their spare time searching and collecting. “Of course, a lot of people just go out looking for arrowheads, but there’s so much more,” tom says. “before that indian had a had a projectile, they had to have a tool to make it with—there are all kinds of everyday tools they used—scrapers, grinders, fish weights. you find all of that.” “tom finds the big stuff, and i find the little stuff,” terry says with a laugh, as she hands over her large display of tiny, perfect arrowheads. She also found two stones carved into animal shapes— one a wolf (or bear?) and the other most definitely a fish. terry is the one who found a smooth black round stone that is believed to be a game piece. it’s so pristine that an expert said it’s “museum quality.” the cream of the Steels’ collection, however, is a triangle-shaped stone object, which is grooved and carved. it is a true treasure. tom found it three years ago, about two and a half miles west of Cleveland. “it’s the darnedest thing i’ve ever seen in my life,” tom says. “i was going across the road trying to catch my dog—he didn’t want to get into the truck and ran over there. and that’s when i spotted the rock out of the corner of my eye. it was mostly covered. i picked it up, and i knew right off that it was something special. it was laying there like god intended me to find it. it was in a place where you don’t find a whole lot, but when you do it’s special.”

Above, a small portion of Lee Hazlewood’s collection. Above right, Hazlewood displays some of the points he has recovered.

LEE HAZLEWOOD Lee Hazlewood, an attorney from Eupora, has been collecting Native American artifacts in the Delta for about fifty years. His mom was a kindergarten teacher, and she arranged a fieldtrip for her class to a site near Winona where amateur archeologist john Sumner was searching for native american artifacts. She took lee, who was ten at the time. He found an arrowhead. “One of the first ones i picked up was an early archaic beveled hardened point. i thought something was wrong with it because it had the bevels on it,” Hazlewood recalls with a laugh. “back then i didn’t really know what i was looking for—i shudder to think about what i walked over. back then you could stop at almost any field in the Delta and find something.” Hazlewood fell in love with artifact hunting, and the passion hasn’t waned. He’s picked up thousands of projectile points, tools, and jewelry. among his highlights are a Clovis point (made in the period 13,050 to 12,750 years ago) and a collection of five hundred to six hundred trade beads, many of which he found while crawling on his hands and knees. those beads range in size from a golf ball down to a pinhead. Hazlewood’s favorite find is a stone pendant, known as a “gorget,” that he found just off of Highway 49 about twenty years ago. this gorget is flat, elliptical-shaped, and about as big as his hand. “When i first saw it, i thought it was an old shoe sole,” Hazlewood says. “in these sites you find all kinds of trash, and over the years i’ve seen a bunch of old shoe soles that i thought were gorgets. When i saw this one, i thought it was the same thing. then i saw where some of the dirt had come out of the hole on one end. then i knew what i had.” RUSTY WEST Rusty West lives in Clarksdale and works for Simplot in Webb. West has found most of his native american artifacts while at work. “it started right after i got out of high school,” West says. “My boss and i’d be in the truck, and he’d drop me off out in the field to go check cotton. He would always come back with an arrowhead and be all excited. that kind of got me excited. eventually, i started finding them too.” Happenstance turned into something more. “after a while you get kind of wise to it. if there’s a high spot that’s near water, you’re going to find an arrowhead. if there’s a bayou or a

Rusty West displays some of his unique relics.

river and there’s a high spot in the field, something is guaranteed.” Several times, West has found points while in the field with salesmen who never see the opportunity. “a bunch of Pioneer salesmen and i were out on a field day when we were looking at different varieties,” West recalled. “there were probably about ten of us out there on the turnrow, going from spot to spot. We were all huddled up, and i was in the middle of talking when i looked down and said, ‘y’all lookie here!’ i picked up a nice arrowhead right in front of everybody.” the best moment was on an outing near Minter City. West was with a salesman, helping him fix a problem, when he spotted an odd rock. West bent over and picked up what turned out to be a rare discoidal, one perfectly formed and with a drilled hole in the middle. (a discoidal is a round game piece used in the native american game of chunkey. “i picked it up right under his feet. He said, ‘Doggone it! you don’t find arrowheads—they find you!’” DM Delta Magazine 2022

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Securities and advisory services are offered through LPL Financial (LPL), a registered investment advisor and broker-dealer (member FINRA/SIPC). Insurance products are offered through LPL or its licensed affiliates. Community Bank and Community Wealth Management are not registered as a broker-dealer or investment advisor. Registered representatives of LPL offer products and services using Community Wealth Management, and may also be employees of Community Bank. These products and services are being offered through LPL or its affiliates, which are separate entities from, and not affiliates of, Community Bank or Community Wealth Management. The LPL Financial Registered Representatives associated with this site may only discuss and/or transact securities business with residents of the following states: Mississippi, Alabama, Florida and Tennessee. Securities and insurance offered through LPL or its affiliates are: Not Insured by FDIC or Any Other Government Agency | Not Community Bank Guaranteed | Not Community Bank Deposits or Obligations | May Lose Value

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HOME

Inviting, Inspiring & Unique

With a combination of colors, textures, and media the collection of works in this art-filled home brings interest to every room

BY SHERRY LUCAS • PHOTOGRAPHY BY ABE DRAPER

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The large Charlie Busler oil painting which hangs prominently in the living room is complemented by two oil on paper works by Andrew Bucci, which flank doors to the patio.

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A grid of antique prints by a 19th-century British naturalist makes a statement on the dining room wall.

Lacey Brown, right turned to her aunt by marriage, Brown’s Fine Art co-owner Allison Brown, for guidance on the art collection. 104 | january/february 2022

he collection of original art that enlivens the walls of Lacey and Jeremy Brown’s Indianola home began before they moved in, and even before they wed.

Seeds for it were planted in relative fashion—in jeremy’s family connection to brown’s fine art and framing in jackson. founded by his grandparents, and run by his grandmother Mary grace brown and her children allison Simmons and joel brown for decades, the art gallery is now in the hands of allison and her daughter, emily Simmons Sandoval. jeremy’s aunt allison (his dad larry’s sister), has advised on the collection from the start. “allison had an eye for everything,” lacey says, admiring the artworks that suit the space so well. the couple bought the 1950s ranch four years ago, bringing it down to the studs for a remodel and update that vaulted the ceiling, flipped the kitchen, and more. blank walls with a fresh, clean coat of Sherwin Williams Whitetail were a canvas begging for action on the art end. now, a variety of works add interest throughout the home, inspiring decor choices, tying rooms together, and engaging the eye at every turn.

Custom-framed artworks by Andrew Bucci flank doors to the patio and contribute to the living and dining area’s airy comfort.

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Martha Rea Baker’s encaustic wax paintings on paper add textural interest in the den.

even the bedrooms of their children—lucas, five, and eliza, three—have artworks they’ll grow up with and that will grow more treasured with each passing year. the first painting lacey picked out hangs in eliza’s room— ”love’s ability” by liz Chadwick nichols. its dreamy puffs of white and peach blush could be orchid blooms, cotton bolls, or clouds, and bits of gold leaf add a special shine. “When we found out we were having a girl, i went in the shop and showed allison that picture—i ioved it,” lacey says. that choice clued allison in on her style, “but i think she also knew 106 | january/february 2022

that i needed different things in this house that i wouldn’t have normally picked out. “i showed her what i liked in the store. then, when we moved in this house, i showed her all the blank walls; she brought me options, and we went from there,” lacey says. “She definitely helped me get out of my comfort zone.” a long wall in the dining room sports a dozen antique prints from A Natural History of the Nests and Eggs of British Birds by the nineteenth century british naturalist rev. f. O. Morris. the colors, speckled shells, and even the prints’ mats and frames subtly

Artworks by Martha Rea Baker and a landscape painting by Greg Gustafson, below, bring a splash of color to the den’s neutral palette.

tie in with the furnishings of the dining room and the formal living area at the other end of the big open space. jeremy’s grandmother and brown’s fine art founder Mary grace brown has always collected antique prints in books, allison says. the chromolithographs date to the mid-1800s to1870s. With a large painting/focal point at one end of the room already, “i didn’t want another large piece,” allison says. She aimed for a subject that had dining room appeal, “and i liked the idea of a grouping. “i like mixing—not having all watercolors or all oil paintings

Don’t assume original art is beyond your budget. “There are a lot of good artists that aren’t super-expensive.” – aLLison siMMons

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Jackie Meena’s watercolor of a bear, and the custom framed treatment of a suite of animal prints elevate the style in their son Lucas’s bedroom.

or even all paintings. i like mixing in antique prints, or posters in some cases,” she says, “just to make it look a little more collected.” a pair of large andrew bucci oils on paper bookend the glass doors to the patio outside. it’s a good, sunny spot for the artist’s light touch, warm hues, and spirited imagery, enhanced by frames that are just as fresh in a washed, soft gold that shows them off to perfection. the works are from bucci’s Daphne Collection. in the living room, a Charlie busler oil painting, “Day break,” pulls in the focus and anchors the wall over the sofa with a compelling, abstracted sunrise in grays, creamy yellow, and soft blues. the muted shades set up a cozy dialogue with the charcoal 108 | january/february 2022

Proper placement, framing and a pro’s guidance ensure that family photos and original artwork such as this abstract by Martha Rea Baker work together for a harmonious look in the master bedroom.

furniture, while at the same time injecting a bit of color. “i like how that one sort of brings you into the room,” allison says. a Kit fields watercolor of lacey and jeremy’s nuptials, a wedding gift from lacey’s aunt and uncle, Drs. Sethelle “tell” and Hal flowers, hangs in the foyer along with baby panels of the browns’ two children. the panels by lamb’s Photography in greenwood were framed by brown’s with a fillet to dress them up a bit. in the den, four Martha rea baker encaustic wax paintings on paper from her “rhythm and Hues” series add a dash of movement and color to the walls. Delta Magazine 2022

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A painting by Liz Chadwick Nichols and collages by Dyann Gunter are feminine touches in daughter Eliza’s bedroom.

“idle Spirit,” a landscape painting by greg gustafson helps define the transition from den to kitchen. “that’s my favorite picture because i feel like it reminds me of the Delta and the beach,” lacey says. in the attractive, flat land scene, a sinking sun glints off a patch of water. Coming in the house through the garage, “you see it right when you walk in the door.” the browns’ art collection began with a large painting lacey fondly calls “the Cow.” When jeremy graduated college, bought a house, and began to furnish it, allison offered to come look and help out, bringing some options to see what he liked. “this was the real starter,” lacey says of the just over six-feetlong pasture scene with a cow and calf by terry Cherry. “My husband had this in his bachelor pad. then, when we married and we moved to blaine, to the farm, ‘the Cow’ came with us. and then, ‘the Cow’ left the farm and came back with us. He’s our ode to the farm. and it fits perfect in this long hallway. “When we were married, large art was not in our budget, but we had this piece, so we definitely wanted to build on it,” she says. “and i’ll always remember our first years on the farm, even though i’m a city girl.” jeremy’s original art collection also included a pastel landscape of Delta fields by Sharon richardson, now hanging farther down the hall, and a watercolor of a Delta intersection by ann barron on display in the playroom. another bucci, this one a fashion watercolor from the 1950s, hangs in the hall bathroom. the collection’s preponderance of 110 | january/february 2022

The six-foot-long pasture scene by Terry Cherry finds a perfect fit in a long hallway. Along with the Sharon Richardson landscape at the hall’s end, the artworks are a reminder of farm life in the Delta.

artists with Mississippi ties is another hallmark of brown’s fine art and framing. in their son’s bedroom, prints of young zoo animals that lacey bought on etsy for his nursery enjoyed a framing update that elevated the look as lucas grew. Sandwiched between two pieces of glass and framed in rustic cypress, the wall’s repose gray color becomes the “mat,” and the collection gains a more mature, masculine look. the recent addition of a large jackie Meena watercolor of a bear gives the room another big-boy boost. Walter anderson alphabet letters bring a splash of color into the jack and jill bathroom, and eliza’s bedroom is refreshingly feminine. Original art on the walls—the treasured painting by nichols and a pair of small and mesmerizing abstract collages by Dyann gunter—brings beauty, texture, and engagement to a room that’ll suit a growing girl for years to come. in the master bedroom, a four-by-four-foot abstract by Martha rea baker is a restful presence in dove grays and blues with warm touches of red and gold. in the master bath, a loose and lovely landscape by jackie ellens is another peaceful treat, perfect in its place above the tub. a smaller Charlie busler painting, this one of a moon face, is a cool touch and a daily reminder of the delight art can provide. for lacey, “the more you look at it, the more you appreciate the time and effort that was put into each piece.” for their home, “it brings it all together,” she says. “it makes it feel completed.” DM

rown’s Fine Art and Framing in Jackson, a family business with roots in custom framing, grew over the decades into a fine art gallery known for its support and promotion of Mississippi and regional artists as well as its high-quality framing expertise. Mary grace brown worked alongside two of her children, allison brown Simmons and joel brown, for fiftyfour years, and in 2020 she sold brown’s to her daughter, allison, and granddaughter, emily Simmons Sandoval.

Some tips for beginning art collectors

• Visit galleries, art openings, and exhibitions to get to know art and artists and zero in on personal preferences. Some artists work directly with their customers these days, but visiting a gallery provides a view of multiple artists and a wide range of media, all at one time. “By coming to a place like Brown’s, which represents twenty something artists, they may see something they never could have found on their own,” Emily says.

• Always use a hanger, never just a bare nail, to hang fine art. Use two hangers on large pieces. • Center art, and hang it at eye level. • Fine art should always have conservation glass. When framing a piece, ask to make sure. • Go for a variety of artwork—watercolors, oils, collages, prints, sculpture—for a collected look.

• Don’t assume original art is beyond your budget. “There are a lot of good artists that aren’t super-expensive,” Allison says. “Start small, and do it as a gift to each other.” Young couples can start a tradition of selecting a work of art each anniversary, growing a collection that they’ll enjoy for a lifetime.

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DELTA

MAGAZINE

g n i d d e W SHOWCASE

2022

WEDDING ANNOUNCEMENTS

ONE PAGE HOWE

BATES

TWO PAGE

ANNOUNCEMENTS

BAILEY

BRATTON

Formal

◆ One vertical photo ◆ Two horizontal photos ◆ Up to 450-500 word write-up HOGAN

ALLIE INGRAM HOGAN

CULVER

Formal

◆ Two vertical photos ◆ Four horizontal photos ◆ Up to 900-950 word write-up ANNOUNCEMENTS

ROARK

•

STEINLE •

& WALKER HILL CULVER

Visual

◆ Two vertical photos ◆ Two horizontal photos ◆ Vendor details

MARY MARGARET ROARK

& PAUL JACOB STEINLE III

Visual

◆ Three vertical photos ◆ Five horizontal photos ◆ Vendor details

Announcement information can be found online at deltamagazine.com/weddings. Chosen form will provide prompts to upload announcement or details (Word, Pages, or PDF) and all photos. Please provide high-resolution images. Screenshots of write ups or photos will not be accepted. Each announcement will have the option to upload an additional 35 photos for the wedding showcase feature. Please read the instructions carefully!

For questions or assistance contact 662.843.2700 or weddings@deltamagazine.com

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Newfor Wedding DELTA

MAGAZINE

2022

SHOWCASE

ANNIVERSARY & ENGAGEMENT ANNOUNCEMENTS

HALF PAGE

ANNIVERSARIES

ONE PAGE

ANNIVERSARIES

Celebrating 30 years

Mr.& Mrs. Michael Couch Parker

Mr. & Mrs. Michael Couch Parker

Celebrating 30 years

Mr. & Mrs. Michael Couch Parker

Mr.& Mrs. Michael Couch Parker

◆ One vertical photo ◆ Up to 275 word write-up

ENGAGEMENTS

Mary Dudley Pillow & Trey Bozeman

◆ One horizontal photo and one vertical photo or three vertical photos ◆ Up to 275 word write-up

ENGAGEMENTS

Mary Dudley M Pillow&

ENGAGEMENTS

Trey Bozeman

Mary Dudley&

Trey Bozeman

Mary Dudley Pillow & Trey Bozeman

◆ One vertical photo ◆ Up to 275 word write-up

◆ Three vertical photos or one horizontal photo and one vertical photo ◆ Up to 275 word write-up

For questions or assistance contact 662.843.2700 or weddings@deltamagazine.com

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FOOD

Meatless Mains in the New Year

BY CINDY COOPWOOD • PHOTOGRAPHY BY RORY DOYLE

hen it comes to wintertime meals,

comfort foods top the list. But sometimes the old standbys leave you feeling somewhat overstuffed. Keep things a little lighter this year, by rotating meatless main dishes into your meal plan. Try these easy, homemade, main dishes that deliver all the flavor and presentation but without any meat, which is also more cost effective. Plus, most of these recipes come together in about half an hour and are made with pantry staples and produce that is readily available. And we promise—these are sure to please the pickiest of carnivores.

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GNOCCHI WITH CRISPY BRUSSELS SPROUTS AND BROWNED BUTTER browned butter makes every dish more special and this one is no exception. We love the unexpected combination of gnocchi and brussels sprouts! 1 onion, chopped ¼ cup olive oil 1 lb brussels sprouts salt and pepper, to taste ½ teaspoon lemon zest ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes, or to taste 18 ounce package of gnocchi 4 tablespoons butter ½ teaspoon honey shaved parmesan cheese, for serving

SPAGHETTI WITH ROASTED EGGPLANT AND TOMATO SAUCE this dish comes together quickly and is so hearty your family will not miss the ground beef! if you want to add more veggies, it’s equally delicious over zucchini noodles. 1 onion, chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 6 tablespoons olive oil

3 pounds canned stewed tomatoes in juice 2 pounds eggplant, diced into ½-inch cubes 1 pound spaghetti

Drizzle 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large saucepan. add the onion and the garlic and saute over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion is softened. add the tomatoes with the juice, and simmer the sauce, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until it is thickened. While the sauce is simmering, divide the diced eggplant evenly between 2 sheet pans and drizzle it with the remaining 4 tablespoons oil. bake the eggplant on the upper and lower racks of a preheated 400 degree oven for 10 minutes, stir it and switch the pan positions in the oven. bake the eggplant for about 10 minutes more, or until it is very tender and golden. Stir it into the sauce and season with salt and pepper to taste. boil the spaghetti in a large pot of boiling salted water until it is al dente; drain well. to serve divide the spaghetti among dinner plates, spoon the sauce over the pasta, and top with freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese. Serves 4 to 6 116 | january/february 2022

Clean and trim the brussels sprouts, slicing into halves, or quarters if they’re large. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. add brussels sprouts in an even layer, season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle over lemon zest and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring occasionally, or until sprouts are crispy and golden brown. if desired, add the red pepper flakes and stir in, cook a couple more minutes until sprouts are crisp and tender. transfer to a plate or bowl while you cook the gnocchi. add the remaining tablespoon of oil to a skillet over medium-high heat. break up any gnocchi that are stuck together, add them to the pan and cook in an even layer without stirring, 3 to 4 minutes or golden brown underneath. add butter and season with salt and pepper. Cook until butter has melted and starts to turn golden brown and nutty smelling, this can take several minutes. Watch close so as not to burn the butter! Stir the brussels sprouts back in and cook just until warmed through. remove from heat and serve with Parmesan cheese.

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Polenta 4 ½ 1 32 ¼ ¼ 16 ½ 1

tablespoons olive oil cup chopped onion tablespoon minced garlic ounces chicken stock cup chopped fresh oregano cup chopped fresh basil ounces instant polenta pint heavy cream cup grated mozzarella Salt and freshly ground black pepper ½ cup grated Parmesan

CREAMY POLENTA WITH SAUTEED HERBED MUSHROOMS Cozy, filling, and oh so delicious…the meaty mushrooms make this such a satisfying main dish. ½ 3 2 1 1

cup basil pesto tablespoons olive oil sprigs fresh rosemary tablespoon chopped shallots cup baby Bella mushrooms, stemmed and sliced

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1 cup white mushrooms, sliced ½ cup white wine Salt and freshly ground black pepper ⅓ cup chopped parsley leaves, for garnish

Mushrooms: Heat the olive oil in a skillet to medium-high. When the olive oil is hot add the 2 sprigs of rosemary and cook for 2 minutes. remove the rosemary and add the shallots. Cook the shallots until softened, about 4 minutes, then add the mushrooms and saute until they release their liquid, about 8 minutes. Stir in the white wine bring to a simmer about 3 minutes. add ½ teaspoon of salt and ¼ teaspoon of black pepper and simmer for 3 minutes. transfer the mushrooms to a serving bowl and garnish with chopped parsley. Polenta: Heat the olive oil in saucepan to medium-high. When the oil is hot add the onions and saute for 5 minutes. add the chopped garlic and cook for about 3 minutes, being careful not to burn. Stir in the chicken stock and bring to boil, then add the oregano and basil. Slowly pour in the polenta stirring constantly until the polenta thickens. Stir in the heavy cream mozzarella and parmesan and mix until you have a smooth and creamy texture. Season with salt and pepper, to taste. transfer the polenta to a serving dish, topping with warm mushrooms, and garnish with more Parmesan and chives, if desired, or may be served individually.

EASY SPINACH AND RAVIOLI LASAGNA this one has been around a while, but with simple ingredients to keep on hand, it’ll soon become a family favorite for quick weeknight meals. 1 6-ounce bag fresh baby spinach leaves, chopped ½ cup basil pesto 1 15-ounce jar Alfredo pasta sauce ¼ cup vegetable or chicken broth 1 25-ounce package frozen cheesefilled ravioli (keep frozen) 1½ cup shredded Mozzarella cheese

Heat oven to 375 degrees. Spray 11x7inch glass baking dish with cooking spray. in medium bowl, toss spinach and pesto, reserving a tablespoon of pesto. in another bowl, mix alfredo sauce remaining pesto and broth. Spread about ½ a cup of the sauce mixture into baking dish. top with half of spinach mixture, then arrange half of ravioli in single layer over spinach mixture. repeat layers, ending with with spreading the remaining sauce mixture on top. bake uncovered 30 minutes. Sprinkle with cheese. bake 5 to 7 minutes longer or until bubbly and beginning to brown.

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Lowcountry

OYSTER ROAST This Hernando couple is carrying on a family tradition and forging new memories with family, food, and friends BY MARILYN TINNIN • PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIMOTHY IVY

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hen Natalie and Josh Lynch and their two boys bought their country-in-the-city home in 2013, they knew they would make it a welcome gathering place for family and friends. Giant hardwoods cover the expansive front and back yard. A rustic old storage shed lends its character, and the setting is a natural venue even before the preparation begins.

josh, one of three sons, and natalie, one of three daughters, blend their his-and-her styles as hosts to an annual oyster roast. it is both classy and comfortable—a cross between a guys’ hunting camp, the grove, and the best of Southern hospitality. josh’s parents, Kay and gary lynch, learned about roasting oysters years ago after close friends tom and alice anne Sander, South Carolina natives, introduced them to their lowcountry tradition. the men worked together at Smith and nephew, an international medical equipment manufacturing company in Memphis. new

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Josh and Natalie Lynch have enjoyed hosting family friends and friends of friends to their annual oyster roast since 2013.

job opportunities meant the couples eventually moved apart, but they maintained their friendship and love for oyster roasts! josh and his brothers, adam and noah, built great memories over the years with occasional family oyster roasts in their backyard. the oysters were delicious, but the entire process was an extraordinary family bonding experience. the young boys

How to Roast Oysters STEP 1: You will need a large piece of sheet metal, four standard-size cinder blocks, two burlap sacks, a five-gallon bucket of water for soaking the burlap, two large clean shovels, oyster knives, heavy gloves, and a trash can lined with a heavy-duty garbage bag. STEP 2: To create the roasting pit, set the cinder blocks vertically to fit beneath the four corners of the sheet metal. Build your fire and allow it to get so hot that water will sizzle if sprinkled on the metal. STEP 3: Dump the oyster shells over the sheet metal in a single layer and cover with a soaking-wet burlap sack. The steam will cook the oysters in about eight to ten minutes. Use the shovels to transfer the steamed shells to the table. Let the sheet metal reheat and start the process again. STEP 4: Enjoy! Have plenty of oyster knives on hand. Guests will find that part of the fun is prying their shells open. Everyone assembles their dipping sauce from a generous supply of ingredients right at the table. Delta Magazine 2022

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Greg Tutor knows how to open the shells and enjoy the bounty.

A chilly night, the steam off the roasted oysters, and the wood tables filled with condiments for do-it-yourself sauce make a unique party.

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Below: The Lynch men: Dad Gary, Noah, Adam, and Josh have been making memories while roasting oysters since the boys were small. They do the yeomen’s work roasting the oysters.

The fire gets going hours before the guests arrive.

found an adventure in standing around the open fire pit, scooping the steamed shells with giant shovels, dumping them in the middle of a picnic table, and prying the shells open with oyster knives. When josh and natalie imagined entertaining their friends at their new forever home, the oyster roast was a nobrainer. the idea presented endless possibilities. josh’s brothers and parents offered their assistance, and the creative collective turned a backyard get-together into an annual event. all these years later, josh and natalie’s sons, evan and Henry, have begun inviting their friends, too. about six weeks before the date, natalie, a Hernando alderman and accountant, creates an event on facebook with a save the date invitation, including a note to bring friends if you want. She, josh, brothers

The Lynch brothers and the Tinnin sisters all lend a hand. Jill Tinnin Grogan (far right) does most of the floral and table décor. Ashley Tinnin Frazer (left) is handy with a camera. Delta Magazine 2022

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There is a station that features Oyster Rockefeller and other specialty toppings on the roasted oysters all in appropriate presentation!

Natalie and Josh Lynch share a laugh with Parker Pickle, Hernando’s long-time Tax Assessor, who is a devoted advocate of all things Hernando. 128 | january/february 2022

adam and noah, and adam’s wife, brittany, text the invitation to all their contacts. there is no rSVP, and nobody has devised a scientific way to estimate the number who will show up. Somehow, that has never been a problem. from 150 to 250 plus guests hail from Hernando, Memphis, tunica, birmingham, jackson, Vicksburg, Oxford, and elsewhere. Hanging bistro lights illuminate the entire backyard. the crowd spills over among several food stations while television screens broadcast SeC football. beyond the patio, the back doors of the house beckon. there is always a crowd inside making themselves at home all over the downstairs rooms and in the dining room there is a table laden with desserts. the party resembles a town festival, and the Hernando community does indeed have a hand in it. Miles McMath, owner of the Parish, one of Hernando’s local restaurants, fills the brothers’ order for 1500 oysters. Miles even provided his own rockefeller trimmings and unique toppings for the chargrilled portions. Mrs. Hippie eats, a local graband-go, was natalie’s source for a tray of scrumptious scratch brownies and cookies. Hernando’s How to bbQ right shop provided the original rub for the boston butt pulled pork barbeque. fish stew is the work of Kay lynch. akin to the best gumbo you ever tasted, Kay credits her friend alice anne Sander with the original recipe. She confesses that she rarely follows it to the letter. She tastes, tweaks, and multiplies as she goes and reports there are never any leftovers. the crowd devoured ten gallons of her brew for the last party! a soiree of this type would not be complete without music, and natalie creates her own oyster roast playlist through Spotify. friend, Matt Crain, brings his professional sound system, and the poprock, country, and alternative jazz-rock sounds carry across the grounds so perfectly that listeners could be looking for the live band all night! and speaking of all night, the party that began at 6:30 is not over until it’s over. the last car drives away about 2 am the last glowing embers from the fire pit are dying; empty dishes and full trash cans tell the story of a successful party. and the lynch family has added a new memory to their store of family favorites. DM

KAY LYNCH’S LOWCOUNTRY FISH STEW 1 32-ounce box basic brown roux from oil, flour, chicken broth or use Tony Chachere roux powder 2 28-ounce cans of diced tomatoes 2 10-ounce cans Rotel tomatoes 2 large, sweet onions 2 green bell peppers 1 red bell pepper 1 yellow bell pepper 3 stalks celery 3 or 4 garlic pods chopped 2 pounds smoked sausage 1 stick butter Okra (fresh or frozen) sliced to your preference 1 pound lump crab meat 2 one-pound packages of frozen crawfish tails 2 pounds cod fillets, uncooked cut into cubes 4 to 5 pounds shrimp (peeled and raw) Salt and Pepper Tony Chachere Cajun seasoning

Make a roux (easy to find instructions online if you need them) Chop onions, peppers, celery, garlic. Sauté in butter until softened. add to the roux. Slice and brown sausage in a separate skillet. add everything to the roux. Mix well. Season to taste and let simmer on very low heat for at least two hours—the longer, the better! Serve as is or over rice. DM

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sPecial aDVertisinG section

2022 Health and Wellness start the new year oﬀ right with these health care providers Delta Magazine 2022

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11 Health Benefits of Walking a brisk walk or pace that leaves you slightly out of breath is the target goal to reap these beneﬁts.

• Builds aerobic ﬁtness • Lowers low-density lipoprotein (LDL)

• Raises high-density lipoprotein (HDL)

• Help reduce risk and aides with the management of type ii diabetes

• Reduces the risk of abnormal cell growth

• Weight control. Helps you to maintain lean muscle tissue

• Lower blood pressure • improve balance—very important as you age, leading to the less likelihood of an injury

• increase your heart's health • Build stronger muscles— especially in the legs

• and is a natural stress reliever. some of the best beneﬁts of walking are that no special equipment is needed, it’s accessible to everyone, it’s a low impact exercise, and improves your mood.

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A New Year, A New Healthier You!

Schedule an appointment today!

• Donna G. Breeland, M.D. • Shani K. Meck, M.D. • Missy J. McMinn, M.D. • Lindsey M. Turner, M.D. • Michelle Taheri, M.D. • Sharon K. Brown, CFNP • Katie W. Sartin, CFNP

EastLakelandOBGYN.com

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Stuckey Family Dentistry is proud to serve Greenwood and the Delta for 30 Years in family dental services. Beautiful results and a healthy mouth are a few appointments plan for a healthy mouth together. Call us today!

136 | january/february 2022

WELL-BEING tips for 2022 • Drink more water. Water is a healthy, calorie-free and sugar-free beverage option. • Add 10 minutes of exercise to your day. If you don’t already exercise, aim to do 10 minutes each day. If you do currently exercise, add 10 extra minutes to your routine. • Get moving at work. Aim to stand up more often, or take a quick walk or stretch break. • Go to bed 10 minutes earlier. By the end of the week, you’ll get an extra 70 minutes of sleep. Keep it up all year, and you’ll have slept 60 hours more. • Each day, find a way to eat an extra serving of fruit or vegetables. • Dedicate at least 5 minutes of your lunch break to walking. Not only will it help you be more active, but it can also help you relieve stress. • Spend more time with family and friends to relieve stress, laugh more and relax. • Make it a habit to appreciate all you have and the important people in your life. • Work on your posture by keeping your head up, as if you were balancing a book on your head. Avoid slouching! • Skip the salty snacks or sweet treats and go for fruit to round out packed lunches. • Brush and floss your teeth. Get in the habit of brushing twice and ﬂossing once per day. • Control your portions. Limiting your portions is necessary for healthy eating and weight management. • Always keep moving. Even if you’re already exercising, if you spend long periods of time being inactive, it can be bad for your health. • Take time away from your screens: cell phone, computer, TV, and tablet. • Visit your doctor for your age-appropriate preventive exams such as physicals, colonscopy, and mammograms. • Mind your manners. “Please” and “thank you” can go a long way when interacting with others. • Balance work and home life. Leave work at work! • Trade your dessert for an after-dinner stroll. Delta Magazine 2022

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HISTORY

UM ANNUAL

“I am what I am, so, I have no problem.”– Mae HeLen FLoWeRs

Mae Helen Flowers was in charge of her counter at Kiame’s. She always had a smile, always knew your name and always shared her love. For forty-five years, Mae Helen was considered the “House Mom of the late-night crowd of Ole Miss students at Kiame’s”.

Kiamie’s Mae Helen Loved and Remembered by Ole Miss Students BY HANK BURDINE

DALE FLOWERS

Mae Helen Flowers 138 | january/february 2022

believe Mae Helen Flowers loved everybody she ever met, especially her Ole Miss students. Working behind the counter at Kiamie’s

bowling lanes for forty-five years, she met, knew, and remembered thousands of students. She was an absolute favorite of the late-night crowd at Kiamie’s, always smiling, always laughing, and always attentive to the students’ needs and concerns. She gave out a lot of advice, filled innumerable hungry bellies, and even helped heal some broken hearts. She will never be forgotten by those who knew and loved her.

UM ANNUAL

tonight, honey?” and, once you told her, she’d say, “you be good now, you hear.” the girls had to be back in the sorority houses and dormitories by midnight, and as soon as they were dropped off, all the boys would head straight to Kiamie’s. Sometimes the atmosphere got rather heated as to who was going out with whom or maybe some ill feelings spilled over into the late-night hours, and sometimes fights would break out. according to george lotterhos, “Mae Helen could break up a full-scale riot if need be. She broke up many a fight at Kiamie’s.” Sparky reardon, retired dean of Student affairs at Ole Miss was in school there in 1968-1972, about the time i passed through. being from different fraternities, he was a Phi Delta theta and i was a Ka, we would often see each other after hours at Kiamie’s. Sparky’s favorite order was two chili cheeseburgers, gravy fries, and a chocolate milk. Sparky states, “Mae Helen was an institution within an institution at the institution of Ole Miss. She fed our bodies with Kiamie’s cuisine, our souls with a bible verse or an encouraging word, and our egos by us knowing, or acting like, she knew our names. in the 1960s and 1970s, when the parties ended on fraternity row and the girls had a midnight curfew, Kiamie’s was the place to go, and Mae Helen became the house mom to the campus. She deftly managed orders, put up with drunks’ shenanigans, and met Mr. Kiamie’s demands. She was a vital part of the Ole Miss experience for so many of us, and anyone who ever sat at that counter will

Like a beacon in the night, Kiame’s was THE place to go after dropping your dates off so they could meet their on-campus midnight curfew.

“Twenty plus years after I left Ole Miss our oldest walked in as a freshman. ‘What’s your name sweetie?’ Leigh Carole Jordan. ‘Where you from?’ Philadelphia. ‘LeRoy yo daddy?’ Yes ma’am. One in a million. RIP, sweetheart.” – teRRy JoRDan via susy tHoMas JoRDan’s FaceBook

UM ANNUAL

Mae Helen was born in Sardis and lived most of her life in Oxford. She spent the majority of her working career behind the counter at Kiamie’s bowling lanes taking and filling orders, while Mr. alex Kiamie stood behind the cash register counting change and cashing checks for Ole Miss students. He was a virtual bank unto himself. if you were a customer and wanted to cash a check for ten dollars, Mr. Kiamie would have you write it out for ten dollars and twenty-five cents, calling the twenty-five cents the exchange fee. Woe be unto anyone who wrote a bad check and had it pinned on the wall! Oftentimes, he could be seen standing behind the cash register with the drawer open running his fingers through the change slots as he looked out over the huge building filled with bowling lanes, booths and tables, and Ole Miss students. i think he knew to the penny how much money he had in the cash register at any given moment. My cousin, judge bard Selden from tunica, matriculating at Ole Miss the same time i was there, said recently, “i was not necessarily a late-night reveler, and i did my banking at a local bank; however, 80 percent of the students at Ole Miss probably cashed their checks at Kiamie’s.” Mr. Kiamie, as he was called by everyone, came to Oxford in 1952, attended Ole Miss and was a rebel cheerleader. He soon owned and operated a diner, purchasing more land and expanding his business ventures, eventually opening up the bowling alley, a laundromat, car wash, Kiamie’s Package Store and a bar. the Kiamie name has been a long standing and well-respected name in the Oxford business community, along with being revered in the hearts of thousands of Ole Miss alumni. Kiamie’s was not only a place you could get your checks cashed late at night, but you also knew Mae Helen would greet you by name, listen to your troubles and feed you some of the best food one could imagine. Chili cheese dogs, chili cheeseburgers, hamburger steaks smothered in onions or a platter of french fries covered with gravy and an order of crisp toast to sop up with, and, of course, the proverbial big bowl of chili covered with cheese and crumbled up Saltine crackers were the late-night favorites at Kiamie’s. in a rush, lots of students would come by Kiamie’s in the afternoon to cash a check while getting ready for the evening’s frivolities. Mae Helen, smiling as always, would ask, “Who you got a date with

Mr. Alex Kiame at his post, the cash register at Kiame’s. It has been speculated that he cashed 80 percent of the personal checks for Ole Miss students, charging a 25 cent exchange fee for each check, no matter how large or small. Delta Magazine 2022

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“I want to be the Grandma Moses of this part of the country. Maybe I can be Grandma Flowers.” – Mae HeLen FLoWeRs

After retiring from Kiame’s, Mae Helen took up painting in her spare time. She painted well-remembered scenes from her life growing up in the Mississippi Delta and rural scenes around Lafayette County. 140 | january/february 2022

SARAH BETH WILEY SMITH

Kiame Lane’s, bowling, billiards, arcades and Mae Helen’s counter and tables where you were made to feel at home.

KIAMIE FAMILY ARCHIVES

forever and always remember her.” billy Vandevender remembers Mae Helen, saying, “i know she was a good woman. She was alWayS trying to make you feel good, and she did it with such a joyful spirit.” i’ll never forget the night b. b. King played on campus at the tad Smith Coliseum. i was there with friends and just about half the starting lineup of the Ole Miss football team attending the concert. Midway through the show, running back bubba tollison from ruleville just couldn’t stand it anymore and jumped up on the stage and proceeded to do the “Chuck berry Duckwalk” in front of b. b. King, all to tremendous applause! immediately, of course, he was absconded by the Campus Police and whisked away to the City of Oxford Hoosegow. after the show, Skipper jernigan, george lotterhos, Paul Dongeiux, and a few more of the starting Ole Miss lineup went to the jail to try and spring their teammate bubba. Curtly, the jailer in charge said, “boys, get on out of here now, unless you want to end up right back there with bubba.” Dejectedly, with their heads hung low, the SeC football stars said, “yes, sir” and headed to Kiamie’s where Mae Helen consoled them, assured them bubba would be okay, and was feeding them when several protesters from an earlier Campus Crusade for Christ/uP WitH PeOPle concert showed up that had also demanded bubba’s arrest. Oh, boy, did it start then! according to Skipper, “realizing these were the boys demanding bubba’s arrest, one of the football players reached over and stuck one hippie’s face in a full bowl of chili, and the fat was on the fire!! the fight was in full force when Mr. Kiamie locked the doors, jumped up on the counter, and told everyone he had called Coach billy Mustin and they better stop fighting right now! Mae Helen, sensing the gravity of the situation, immediately rounded up the football players, led us down the outside bowling lane, and out the back door. We were back in the football dorm and in bed pretending to be asleep when Coach Mustin got back.” Skipper said, “besides the Chancellor of Ole Miss, Mae Helen was the most influential person in Oxford!” richard Howorth, proprietor of Square books in Oxford, has stated, “Mae Helen was a formidable and wonderful lady. going to Kiamie’s after getting your date back to the dorm was a thing. for me it was a hot bowl of chili with cheese and crushed crackers. Mae Helen saw a lot of late-night

The original diner now houses Domino’s Pizza.

frat-boys who’d had too much to drink, or acted like it, and occasionally thought they could get smart with Mae Helen. Mae Helen was a very sweet, tolerant woman who could be diametrically stern, if only in her bearing or a look. if you ever witnessed

“I tried to always respect everybody. You have to respect people for them to respect you.” – Mae HeLen FLoWeRs

it, you knew you never wanted to be on the receiving end of it. it was not so much a look of scorn or anger, more like abject pity. i tend to think, or hope, she helped a lot of foolish young white boys become decent men.” Mae Helen, with her friendly spirit, ever concerning attitude, and sincere care for you, helped raise and form three united States Senators. Senators thad Cochran, trent lott, and roger Wicker all sat at Mae

Helen’s counter at Kiamie’s, told her of their happiness and their woes, and listened to her advice. retired Senator trent lott recently commented that when he was at Ole Miss, 1959-1963, he could not walk into Kiamie’s without Mae Helen saying, “What you want, honey? you want your regular, a chili cheeseburger?” reflecting with nostalgia, he went on to say, “She was the life of Kiamie’s; she entertained us. We all loved Mae Helen; she was the best at working behind the counter, loving and taking care of us all!” Oftentimes, when Ole Miss alumni would come to Washington, D.C., and meet with Senator lott, he would ask, “How is Mae Helen these days?” yes, she was loved. Mae Helen retired from Kiamie’s bowling lanes and began writing a little and painting in her spare time. according to her obituary, she considered “people her project.” She enjoyed retirement, spending much time at her easel painting colorful pictures of rural life around Oxford and remembering scenes from her childhood. the following is a recollection by my sister Delta Magazine 2022

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KIAMIE FAMILY ARCHIVES

The Kiamies’ trip from Lebanon to Oxford was a winding road that found Alex Kiamie in 1953, opening his original diner on Business 6. From there, his business life would grow in all directions.

JANE RULE BURDINE

a few paintings for a little money. in the Oxford Eagle. a good crowd jane rule burdine from taylor, Mississippi: i asked Mae Helen if she would like for attended and bought a lot of the work. i “i don’t recall what motivated jim Dees me to help her sell her beautiful and listed each sale and to whom in the book. and me to contact Mae Helen, but we both important art. i would take no after that, people contacted me for went to visit her and she had a canvas she commission. She agreed, and i arranged more sales. i arranged another show at was working on spread out on a board Kiamie’s bowling lanes. Mae before her. next to her chair was a stack of folded paintings on She needs a street named for her. – Rex MaRtin Helen enjoyed both so much, visiting with old friends and new. differing sizes of canvas and an art exhibit of her work in a funky old i talked to her about putting her work at paintings on paper torn from building in taylor. i strung clothesline Southside gallery on the Square where she ringed sketch pads. Several years before she around the large room and clothes pinned would have a large audience who could see had taken a painting course. She told us that she painted scenes from her childhood in her canvasses around the space. i her work there; however, i was unable to convince her of the gallery’s arrangement the Delta. She and her friend had shown photographed the images and put them in to take a commission but that she would their work somewhere, and Mae Helen sold a book with the prices listed. i put notices get her asking price.” Mae Helen flowers died at seventynine years of age on March 17, 2011, at the baptist Hospital in Oxford. She is buried on Highway 6 West at the Harrisonville Mb Church cemetery not far from Kiamie’s. She is remembered, loved, and cherished by thousands of students who were fortunate enough to have come within her sphere. rest in peace, Mae Helen. god knows we love you, and we all know you loved us. DM

Mae Helen at home with her easel and paints. Forever smiling, forever cheerful, her exuberance for life and love came alive in her paintings as she considered “people her project.” “With every person I met that went to the University of Mississippi, I never met one person I didn’t like. I hope everybody that went there liked me.” 142 | january/february 2022

Author’s note: Within the packet of prints in my sister’s folder was a thank you note written on a Christmas card from Mae Helen while she was in the hospital. Attached to that card is a handwritten note from Jane Rule of the conversation she had shortly after she received the note, “You made my day, girl, for the rest of my life … I always knew them Burdines were good for something!”

EVENTS

Mississippi River Marathon, February 5 Gladys Knight, February 19

Summer: The Donna Summer Musical, January 27

FESTIVALS, MUSIC & FUN THINGS TO DO January 15, 1 pm

Olive Branch

January 18-22

Memphis

February 3, 8 pm

Dark Arts Fest: A Brewing Competition

International Blues Challenge

Robert Clay

Mississippi Ale House visitdesotocounty.com

Beale Street blues.org

The Soundstage at Graceland gracelandlive.com

January 15

Tunica

January 21, 7:30 pm

Memphis

Randy Houser

Micke Super - Magic and Illusion

Gold Strike Casino Resort goldstrike.mgmresorts.com

Orpheum orpheum-memphis.org

January 15, 6:30 pm

Jackson

January 25, 7:30 pm

Cleveland

Chamber II: Mozart by Candlelight

Summer: The Donna Summer Musical

Belhaven University Center for the Arts msorchestra.com

Bologna Performing Arts Center bolognapac.com

January 15, 7:30 pm

January 27, 7:30 pm

Jackson

Old School Hip Hop Reunion

Cleveland

Ron White Thalia Mara Hall tatersalad.com

January 28-30

January 17, 7:30 pm

12th Annual Clarksdale Film and Music Festival

Jackson

Opera Mississippi presents Future Stars of the Stage Duling Hall operams.org

Clarksdale

Southaven

Horseshoe Casino caesars.com/tunica

February 4, 8 pm

Memphis

Drive-By Truckers with Special Guest Ryley Walker The Soundstage at Graceland gracelandlive.com

Southaven

Landers Center landerscenter.com

Lecile Harris’ Rodeo of the Mid-South February 5, 8 am

Memphis

msrivermarathon.raceroster.com

Diana Krall

February 8, 7:30 pm

Cannon Center for the Performing Arts thecannoncenter.com

Shen Yun Show

February 3, 7 pm

Greenville

9th Annual Mississippi River Marathon

February 2

144 | january/february 2022

Tunica

Harlem Globetrotters: Spread Game Tour

Landers Center visitdesotocounty.com

Drive-By Truckers with special guest Ryley Walker, February 4

Jobe Auditorium Presented by the Delta State Diversity Committee

February 5, 2 pm

visitclarksdale.com

January 29, 2 pm and 7:30 pm

Cleveland

Dr. Joe Moore, III Percussion Performance “Being Black”

America: 50th Anniversary Tour

Bologna Performing Arts Recital Hall Presented by the Delta State Music Department

January 15, 8 pm

February 3, 6 pm

February 4

Caitlin Jones Percussion Concert with Cleveland Orchestra of Tennessee

Mississippi Coliseum

Memphis

Southaven

Jackson

Thalia Mara Hall thaliamarahall.net

Riley Green: We Out Here Tour

February 9, 7:30 pm

Landers Center landerscenter.com

Waitress, National Tour Ford Center for the Performing Arts fordcenter.org

Oxford

Diana Krall, February 2

February 12, 7:00 pm

Memphis

Professional Bull Riders Pendleton Whisky Velocity Tour FedExForum Fedexforum.com

February 15, 7:30 pm

Cleveland

The British Invasion Bologna Performing Arts Center bolognapac.com

February 19, 8 pm

Memphis

Gabriel “Fluffy” Iglesias Back On Tour FedExForum fedexforum.com

February 19, 8 pm

Southaven

No Remorse Comedy Tour with Mike Epps Landers Center landerscenter.com

February 19, 9 pm

Tunica

Gladys Knight Gold Strike Casino Resort goldstrike.mgmresorts.com

February 21, 7:30 pm

New Exhibit Opens January 28, 2022

Jackson

Opera Mississippi Presents Letters To Puccini Duling Hall operams.org

February 27, 6 pm

Jackson

Rain: A Tribute to the Beatles Thalia Mara Hall thaliamarahall.net

February 28, 7:30 pm

Cleveland

The Ten Tenors: Love in is the Air Bologna Performing Arts Center bolognapac.com

BOOK SIGNINGS Joshua Nguyen

Come Clean January 21, 6 pm, Square Books, Oxford Morgan Thomas

Manywhere February 1, 6 pm, Square Books, Oxford (Virtual Event on Zoom)

The Persistence of Native American Stereotypes A Program of

and The National Endowment for the Arts

WWW.MOSHMEMPHIS.COM • 3050 CENTRAL AVE / MEMPHIS, TN 38111

Delta Magazine 2022

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DELTA SEEN

Pam Powers with Rose and Charles Bowman

Greenwood Community Kitchen Celebrity Waiter Dinner on October 26 at the Episcopal Church of the Nativity in Greenwood

Bettie Ray and Christina Mistry

Photos by Susan Spiller

Jessica Mims, Tish Goodman, Karyn Burrus, Cindy Tyler, Shannon Steen and Judy Nail

Hank and Sandy Lamb

Ernest and Debra Adams

Billy Bowman with Alan and Lynda Galbraith

Lina Elfert, Christina Camp and Patty Brock

Brenda Person, Kola Bowden and Stacy Fall

Angela Taylor and Sara Nell Thach

Will Perkins and Jan Sturdivant

Jeff Crick, Larry Anderton, John and Mary Neff Stewart

Julie Dunn, Dwight and Penny Dunn, Shane Stevens and William Dunn

Taylor Calhoun and Jenny Thompson

Patti and Kim Campbell

LaNelle Tollison and Millie Vemer

146 | january/february 2022

DELTA SEEN

Delta Artist Association Annual Member Exhibit opening reception on November 19 in Greenville Photos by Mary Catherine Brooks William Dunlap Book Signing on October 17 at Turnow Books in Greenwood Photos by Andy Lo

Euphus Butch Ruth and Melissa Moyse

Honey Dean, Mary Lynn Powers, Pam Locke and Scarlett Ruth

Leigh Harris and Gayden Metcalfe

Pat Burton and Eleanor Wright

Steve and Lisa Cookston

Domita Wrenn, Gwen McGrew and Tracey Johnson

Sandy Soloman and Leslie Mosow

Tori Cooper and Nancy Stone-Streett

Betsy Bostic, Lauren Bostic and Maria Mize

Linda Burgess and William Dunlap

Lorrie and Josh Langdon

Sam and Kay Newsom

Emmie Daugherty, Melanie Strain and Arie Strain

Yolande Van Heerden and Shelby Gorman

Jon Peede and William Dunlap Delta Magazine 2022

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DELTA SEEN

GRAMMY Museum® MS Sparkle and Twang Gala on December 1 in Cleveland

Judd and Kelli Williams

Avery and Vance Stcolumbia

Delbert Hosemann, Amanda Frusha, Marty Stuart, Anna Moak, Zoe Massengill and Leah Smith

Maribeth Crews, Lisa Cooley, Megan Walton, Haley Kelly, Susan Morgan, Beth Joel, Jamie Lee and Mary Parker Janoush

Charlie and Jan Brock

Sarah Story, Kelli Williams, Jennifer Lay and Nell Knox

Kate Hood, Anne Lindsey Nunley and Christen Davis 148 | january/february 2022

Zach and Callie Pinkerton

Charlie Worsham and D.D. Hardy

Bob and Theresa Reed

Flip and Dawn Godfrey

DELTA SEEN

Christen and Justin Davis

Andy and Presley Lee, Brandyn Skeen, Jeff Napper, Gary and Jamey Gainspoletti, Paul Janoush, Rivers and Russell Gainspoletti

Libbi Logan and Shelley Tibbs

Neal Suares, Jay and Beth Joel, and Paige Suares

Stephen and Kim Pillow, Lance and Landi Mohamed, Reece and Allison Pillow with Lisa and Floyd Melton III

Morgan and Blake McCain

Ben Bailey, Neal and Paige Suares and Ann Bailey

Haley Kelly, Amanda Turner, Jamie Lee and Mary McKay Griffith

Marsha and Mark Hargett

Lorraine Matthews with Jamey and Gary Gainspoletti Willie Simmons, Marty Stuart and Emily Havens Delta Magazine 2022

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DELTA SEEN

Tommy Goodman Art Show at Delta State’s Wright Center Art Gallery on November 4 in Cleveland Photos by William Powell

Nan Sanders, Tommy Goodman and Myrtis Tabb

Tommy Goodman and H. L. Dilworth

Billy Nowell and Laurence Mellen

Ron Koehler and Nan Sanders

Debbie Powell, Meg Goodman Harris and Jo Parker

Tommy Goodman and Andrew Long

Andrew Long and Bill Dossett

Lee and Don Aylward

Goodman with Zib Goodman, August Goodman, Libba Goodman, Carolyn Goodman, Mads Goodman, Jimmy Goodman, Domingo deHombre, Meg Goodman Harris, Jessie Goodman deHombre and Adelberto deHombre

Meg Goodman Harris, Malone Gregory, Mary Herchel Thames and Jessie Goodman deHombre 150 | january/february 2022

Scott and Cindy Coopwood with Tommy Goodman

Signe Adams, Chet Oguz, Myrtis Tabb and Anne Koonce

Tommy Goodman with Billy and Becky Nowell

Mississippi Department of Archives and History Awards reception on October 21 in Cleveland A selection of photos by Delta Magazine readers

DELTA SEEN

Mississippi Chinese Delta Heritage Museum: Gilroy Chow, Jean Dunn, and Emily Jones; back row: Frieda Quon, Joe Dan Yee, Susan Chow and Ashley Jenkins

Amzie Moore Home Museum: Spence Flatguard, MDAH President, Will Hooker, Bolivar County Administration, Emily Jones, Museum Director and William Leforge, DSU President

Ben Powell for his documentary, BARGE: Hilda Povall, MDAH Vice-President, Lauren Powell, Debbie Powell, and Spence Flatguard, MDAH President

The Martin and Sue King Railroad Heritage Museum: Hilda Povall, MDAH vicepresident, Anna Sledge, museum director and Spence Flatguard, MDAH president

Pryor Buford Lampton, Donna Buford Spell, Lee Buford Threadgill and Sara Buford Kristin Dambrino, John “Jo Jo” Hermann of Widespread Panic, and Fish Goodwyn. The vocal group the Buford sisters performed at the Have Yourself a Delta Little Christmas event at the GRAMMY Museum® Michie tickling the piano keys in downtown Cleveland.

Jim Holloway and Cindy Coopwood

Kerri, Jacob, and Maggi Mosco, Andrew Belvedresi, Mckenzie McGarrh, Kendall and Griffith Roberts, Bailey McGarrh, Sarah Strickland, and Stephani McGarrh enjoying the view in Memphis before attending the Chris Stapleton concert Delta Magazine 2022

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Thefinalword

Memories of Drew

BY ARCHIE MANNING

dyllic” is a descriptor thrown around a whole lot when recalling one’s childhood and where you grew up. but my life as a boy in Drew, Mississippi, fits the term to a tee, and i’ve carried the lessons learned and memories gained there with me—always. if ever there was a small town that could be called a reallife Mayberry, it was Drew. ere were about 2,500 people living in Drew when i was growing up. e town had three stop lights, one of which didn’t have a yellow, so you had to take your chances with that one. We had an active main street which in those days always seemed to be bustling. We had two drugstores in town, two cafes, four grocery stores, and four service stations—which seemed a lot for a town our size—one of which was a billups where the cheapest gas was sold. When i began driving, i had an old ’52 Plymouth that my dad’s good friend had willed to me when he died. Well, ruleville was five miles away from where we lived, and i’ll never forget pulling into that billups in my Plymouth and yelling to the guy who pumped gas there, “Hey, Slick! give me fifty cents worth.” and he’d always say, “Hot damn, boy, where you going to? ruleville?!” Drew also had one law office with three attorneys, and my mother worked there as a legal secretary after my dad passed away. Cotton was king back then, and he had run Case farming Machinery for a living. even though i eventually got a car, my friends and i used to walk everywhere, and i mean everywhere. i had an old, used girl’s bike when i was a kid, but my buddies and i still preferred to walk all the time. and values were an important part of growing up in Drew: i received a special pin in recognition of going fourteen years without missing a single Sunday school day at our baptist church, the first baptist Church in Drew. at said, even though i would go, Vacation bible School was a hard pill for me to swallow because i wanted to be out playing ball instead of being in church! i can’t recall the exact moment i first held a football, but i know i was young and that sports were always present in Drew. My friends and i had played every sport available, and one season blurred into another as we went from baseball to

football to basketball and then track. e house i grew up in was right across the street from the school i attended, so i’d stand out in my front yard and watch the P.e. classes and dream about playing. as i got older, many coaches mentored me and took me under their wings. i never would have made it as far as i did in my football career if it weren’t for them. e friday nights spent going to and playing in football games all over the Delta were magical times, and i reflect on them often. as an eager and bold youngster dying to see any matchup i could— before i actually ever played—i would literally beg the older men to take me along with them to the games. i can only imagine how my presence curtailed the language and possible nipping during the trips! it was usually my uncle Peyton and three or four of his friends in the car, and i had the time of my life going all over to those road games. We only had forty-eight students in my graduating class. in my senior year of high school, our football team had just eighteen players who could actually take the field out of twenty-four on the team due to injuries and so forth. i played quarterback and was one of the few on the squad who didn’t go both ways on offense and defense. We played Cleveland, a much larger team, in my last high school game in the fall of 1966, and when we went out on the field for the toss of the coin, our team had six seniors with two on crutches and Cleveland had twenty-six. We still won the game, though! i’d tell some of my boyhood Drew sports stories to my younger nfl teammates when i became a pro, and they couldn’t believe some of the things, all true, i’d gone through when i was coming up. Some of the old, broken gymnasiums we’d have to play basketball in, for instance, were just awful. i remember playing in one gym where the ceiling was so low you couldn’t arch your shot! and that was just one of many. but we’d make the most of the situation and always play hard and have fun. Drew and the Delta do indeed stay with me to this day. anybody my age who’s grown up in that magical place knows what i mean and feels the same way. DM

“i

Archie Manning grew up in Drew and attended the University of Mississippi where he was quarterback for the Ole Miss Rebels. He went on to become the quarterback for the New Orleans Saints as well as two other NFL teams. He lives in New Orleans with his wife, Olivia.

152 | january/february 2022