deluxxdigital.com I S S U E 23 • M A R C H 201 3
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CONTENTS ELISE MELINAND SHARON VAN ETTEN TINY RUINS BILL CUNNINGHAM EUGENIALEJOS S Y LV I O G I A R D I N A T23@C/159 ROSALINE ROSALINA DARREN SKENE MAURIZIO FANTINI KAILAS LELEN RUETE LAPEET design & art direction: STEPHEN J LEE front cover: photography: Darren Skene stylist: Kiera Liberati hair: Rino Riccio make up: Francesca Bartha photography assistant: Melissa Michel styling assistant: Sheree Angel model: Rokas @ bookings models
deluxxdigital.com is a unique online publication which offers a creative platform for the latest up-and-coming artists to showcase their work. W i t h h i g h l y c r e a t i v e f a s h i o n p h o t o g r a p h y, t o g e t h e r with features and interviews on fashion, music, art and culture, these elements blend to form the incomparable creativity that is deluxxdigital.com If you would like to submit work for future issues please contact: info@deluxxdigital.com www.deluxxdigital.com
Are you a fan of social media (Facebook, Twitter, Instagram etc.)? How do you think these advantage/disadvantage artists in our competitive society? I am not very talented with Facebook or Twitter. I just know it helps a lot to get to know new artists (musicians, painters, photographers etc.) It makes everything much easier, but one should be careful about not sharing too many private things. I guess everyone knows that already, though. How would you describe your personal style? As Elise Mélinand’s. I can’t be more myself than in the music I make. Are you a big festival goer? It’s a shame, but I’m not really. I am going to work on that, though!
ELISE MELINAND text by Yuji Watanabe Bonjour. Can you start by telling our readers a little about your most recent adventures? Bonjour. I would say the most recent adventures I’ve experienced were signing a record deal with the American indie label n5MD for my debut album ‘Gray Hoodie’. It’s a beautiful feeling, one that hasn’t quite sunk in yet! I also got to remix a song called ‘Light’ from Franck Zaragoza (Ocoeur). Besides musical adventures, I‘ve got the chance to meet and work with Yuji Watanabe and his team for this photoshoot. It was the first time anyone has put balloons in my hair, and it was pretty exciting! When travelling around Europe, did you find yourself in any particularly weird or memorable situations? Yes, indeed! I actually ought to start writing about it all! I remember a beautiful house in Estonia where about 30 people lived together under the same roof. There were artists, couch surfers, and people from all over the world who stopped by and performed whatever they wanted. There were workshops, movies, and songs all day long. Sharing such a thing is something I feel grateful for, It inspired me a lot in my musical choices. You’ve lived in Paris and Berlin, how do these cities compare and how do they define different moments in your career? Paris and Berlin have very different energies. Though I was born and raised in my hometown of Paris, I’ve only recently found that I actually liked living there. I’ve always been looking for something abroad that I couldn’t get in France. I don’t really know what exactly it is, but I now am in love with the city. Living in Berlin is very exciting, there is a lot happening there. I would say it’s the place where my career began, it is where I first heard electronic music and where I met many talented musicians like Will Samson, Christina Vantzou, and Florian Frenzel, who mixed and mastered my record. Berlin inspires a lot of artists because of its background, its freedom, its art. It’s the right place to be when one wants to meet people easily or start something creative.
What is the inspiration behind the artwork for your EP Le voyage? The artwork for my debut EP was done by my roommate in Berlin, Alessia Sistori. The inspiration for it is based on the lyric, ‘didn’t you see my balloon’, that I sing in the chorus of the song ‘Le voyage’. It is a metaphor and no one can really understand the meaning of it except maybe the person I’m singing to. Alessia even did a poster with two different drawings on which there are abstracts shapes (one is actually the artwork). But when they’re put together, one understands the whole image. It’s like the song: it allows anyone to find its own interpretation for the metaphors I use. Can you tell us about something precious you own? I would say my first guitar. I bought it in 2011, right after a heartbreak. It was a tough time for me, and buying that small guitar made me feel very free. Then something really unique happened: my fingers knew exactly which strings to pluck, even though I had never played guitar before. This how I made the 5 songs of my debut EP. Who do you envisage your listeners to be? This is a very difficult question to answer. I have no idea. I just hope the people who will listen to my songs will feel like they have travelled somewhere within their minds. If you could collaborate with one artist who would be it? I would love to collaborate with Mesparrow, Agnès Obel, Jon Hopkins, or someone from a totally different musical universe/world. What was your favourite fairy tale when you were a child? I don’t know if we can consider this story as a fairy tale, but I loved to hear ‘The story of the three bears’. I found it fascinating. I know there are some trashy versions of it but the one my mom used to read me was a soft one. Where were you as you answered these questions? at my grandma’s. http://n5md.com/artist/Elise-Melinand
photography: YUJI WATANABE stylist: LAETITIA KANDOLO hair: AMÉLIE SALOMON make up: SATOKO WATANABE All clothes: Fashion in Cube Shoes: Mina Parikka
SHARON VAN ETTEN Are We There For all the attention that was paid to her 2012 break-through Tramp, Sharon Van Etten is an artist with a manifest hunger to turn another corner. Writing with a free-flowing emotional honesty and vulnerability she creates a bond with the listener that few contemporary musicians can match. Compelled by a restless spirit, Van Etten is continuously challenging herself. The result is Are We There, a self-produced album of exceptional intimacy, sublime generosity and immense breadth. While most musicians are quite happy to leave production duties to someone else Van Etten knew it was time to make a record entirely on her terms. Although the saying goes “fortune favours the bold”, this boldness had to be tempered and Van Etten found a “kindred spirit” in veteran music producer Stewart Lerman. Originally working together on Boardwalk Empire, they rallied around the idea of collaborating in Lerman’s New Jersey studio. His expertise allowed Van Etten the freedom to make Are We There the way she imagined It is clear from the opening chords of Are We There that we are witnessing a new awareness, a sign Van Etten is in full stride - writing, producing and performing from a place that seems almost mythical, were it not so touchable and real. Always direct, and never shying away even from the most personally painful narratives, Van Etten’s songwriting continues to evolve. Many of the songs deal with seemingly impossible decisions, anticipation and then, resolution. She sings of the nature of desire, memory, of being lost, emptiness, of promises and loyalty, fear and change, of healing and the true self, violence and sanctuary, waiting, of silence. The artist who speaks in such a voice is urging us to do something, to take hold and to go deeper. www.sharonvanetten.com
photo: Dusdin Condren
Brightly Painted One
TINY RUINS
Formed as a solo project in 2009 by songwriter Hollie Fullbrook, the band now includes bassist Cass Basil and drummer Alexander Freer. While continuing to be based in their native New Zealand, Tiny Ruins has spent much of the past three years touring throughout Australia, Europe & the US, opening for artists such as Beach House, Joanna Newsom, Fleet Foxes, Father John Misty, The Handsome Family and Calexico. Lyrically ambiguous and poignant, the songs roughly follow in the traditions of folk and blues that Fullbrook has drawn on in the past, engaging moods both hopeful and world-weary. Yet there is more of an expansive approach to this album - where debut Some Were Meant for Sea presented a host of characterful vignettes, Brightly Painted One follows a journey, cyclical and whole, with tones falling between dream pop and folk-blues. While still retaining a minimalist approach, this sophomore release is layered and shaped with an array of brass, percussion and strings. The arrangements are lush and fully-realized, with the warm fuzz of hammond and rhodes keyboards, subtle string parts and electric guitar jangles and thrums. Brightly Painted One was recorded with engineer Tom Healy over several months in an underground warren of passageways and small rooms known as ‘The Lab’, in Auckland, the band’s hometown. The writing of these songs spans roughly three years, growing out of Fullbrook’s varied life of touring, working when home, relationships and everyday observation. From the mountain walks of She’ll Be Coming ‘Round , the roof-tops of White Sheet Lightning and the street corners of Reasonable Man, the songs document the stasis and the movement of life; of persevering its humour and mystery. www.tinyruins.com
BILL CUNNINGHAM FAÇADES March 14, 2014 - June 15, 2014 In 1968, photographer Bill Cunningham embarked on an eightyear project to document the architectural riches and fashion history of New York City. Scouring the city’s thrift stores, auction houses, and street fairs for vintage clothing, and scouting sites on his bicycle, Cunningham generated a photographic essay entitled Façades, which paired models—in particular his muse, fellow photographer Editta Sherman—in period costumes with historic settings. Although by turns whimsical and bold, Cunningham’s project also was part of the larger cultural zeitgeist in New York City, during an era in which issues surrounding both the preservation and the problems of the urban landscape loomed large. The photographer donated 88 silver gelatin prints from the series to the New-York Historical Society in 1976, and now, almost four decades later, Cunningham’s work will be reconsidered in a show that will highlight the historical perspective the photographs suggest—not just of the distant past, but of the particular time in which they were created. New-York Historical Society 170 Central Park West at Richard Gilder Way (77th Street) New York, NY 10024
opposite page Bill Cunningham, Editta Sherman on the Subway, ca. 1968-1976. Gelatin silver photograph. New-York Historical Society, Gift of Bill Cunningham this page Bill Cunningham, Rockefeller Center, New York City, ca. 1968-1976. Gelatin silver photograph. New-York Historical Society, Gift of Bill Cunningham
{EUGENIA LEJOS} PROTØ3DYPE PROTØ3DYPE is the 2015 autumn/winter collection from Eugenialejos and is inspired by the architecture of the atoms particularly in the biotechnology areas and its evocative relation with the nature. Delicate games dominate the styles in clothes monochrome, black and white. Layers of silk organza, powder of polyamide and holographic leather are combined in a single look to recreate the game of three-dimensional reality. The collection utilisers the technology of the future all in one collection: with high resolution print, luxury cut leather, 3D printed pieces and holographic fabrics. Protø3dype is a collection remarkable for its innovative material and its future line. Another way to travel the { E U G E N I A L E J O S } universe is taking a trip inside one’s mind. It is all about blurring the boundaries between fiction and non-fiction, or seeing and experiencing many parallel realities in one. www.eugenialejos.com
photography: CRISTIAN DI STEFANO make-up & hair: MARTA ARCE model: SANDRA RUBIO
SYLVIO GIARDINA Tradition, Experimentation, Artistry Asymmetries, Contrasts, Tridimensionality text by Emanuela Nobile Mino Sylvio Giardina’s FW2014 – 2015 collection focuses on two triads of ethical and aesthetical values. A project celebrating the blend of innovation and classicism, bringing the sartorial know – how to challenge original combinations made of seemingly conflicting shapes, materials and treatments. Edgy juxtapositions of different textures and finishes redefine classic clichés: the traditional menswear tweed warms up cool nuances of metallic leather or combines with iridescent patterns of techno fabrics; mat transparencies of soft tricot alternate with vinyl’s gloss effects. Flowing and sculptural volumes emphasize jutting details or fully highlight the pattern of outerwear: couture’s new concept and wearability. Geometric, sharp, straight/rounded, conjugate or absolute cuts convey dynamism and sinuosity to the silhouette. Radical lengths – super short/super long, very much above the knee or ankle-grazing – match with bodices built on sophisticated plastic whims or finished by subtle and severe necklines. The chromatic palette ranges from black in all its possible inflections (deep, shiny, mat, vibrant) to the coolest industrial shades such as gunmetal, iron and steel, up to green. The warm nuances – such as bronze and ochre – are scaled down to the minimum and sometimes work to “illuminate” the uniform chromatic layer within sleeves and, in general, to promote an ever new perspective interpretation of the pieces – enhancing the distinctive value of their multiple, antithetic, elaborately contemporary identity. www.sylviogiardina.com
photography: MARTINA SCORCUCCHI stylist: GIACOMO SIMONI model: AGATA WOZNIAK make-up and hair: MARY CESARDI
T23@ C/159 3rd - 10th of April text by Jade Fotheringham T-shirts have been a part of making a fashion statement for years. But 23 individuals have come together to create a unique statement with a collection of original one size fits all T-shirts, which are selling in Camden for one week only this April. 23 young creatives from The Fashion Communication course at Heriot-Watt University have produced a range of one off t-shirts featuring prints of their original fashion photography. As a wardrobe-staple, the t-shirt, was chosen - not only because it is a classic but also because it is an item of clothing that appeals to everyone regardless of gender, age or size. These one-off pieces have been designed with everyone in mind. The T-Shirt will sell through C/159 a retail unit on Camden High Street in London NW1. C/159 affords creative individuals and businesses the opportunity to showcase their ideas and products in a creative environment. The designers themselves will be working throughout the week in the pop up shop and will be available to talk to the public about their individual influences behind the design of each T-Shirt. www.T23camden.tumblr.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/T23Camden Twitter: https://twitter.com/t23camden
photography: HAMISH DUDA
REFLECTED SIEGRIST photography: ROSALINE ROSALINA styling: WENDY TOBÉAS
photography: GENOVEVA ARTEAGA-RYNN www.genovevaarteagarynn.co.uk make-up: LOUISE STRACHEN/ LEILA SIMON costume designer: BECKY PHILLIPS model: ELLA WEBB @ GINGERSNAP AGENCY assistant: KIERAN HUGHES & JAMES WRIGLEYA this page Jacket: ELLY CHENG opposite page Jumper: SETH YEUNG
photography: ROSALINE ROSALINA stylist: WENDY TOBÉAS assistant: KAJ TER BORGH make up: SATOKO WATANABE models: LEVENT KZILTEPE, BRAM GODIJN, KOOS VAN RIJN location: HAARLEM All clothing: MELISSA SIEGRIST SS/14
IN BLOOM photography: DARREN SKENE styling: KIERA LIBERATI
Shirt: FARAH VINTAGE
this page Shirt: BEAU HOMME opposite page Shirt: BEAU HOMME Blazer: BEAU HOMME
photography: DARREN SKENE stylist: KIERA LIBERATI hair: RINO RICCIO make up: FRANCESCA BARTHA photography assistant: MELISSA MICHEL styling assistant: SHEREE ANGEL models: JOE @ OXYGEN JAMES @ OXYGEN GAUDERIC @ AMCK JACOBO @ BOOKINGS MODELS ROKAS @ BOOKINGS MODELS this page Shirt: ZDDZ Head Piece: FUMBALINAS OPPOSITE PAGE Shirt: ZDDZ Head Piece: FUMBALINAS
DENIMISM photography: MAURIZIO FANTINI styling: MANICOMIX
Short: PAPILLON Short: ABSOLUT JOY Necklace, earrings & jeans (turban): STYLIST’S ARCHIVE
this page Shirt: RIFLE VINTAGE Gilet: BENNETON Salopete: VINTAGE Scarf (turban): STYLIST’S ARCHIVE opposite page Bag: DOLCE & GABBANA Cut Jeans: LEVIS Belt: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE Cloth: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE Necklace: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE
this page Jacket: BENETTON Gilet: BENNETON (neck) Skirt (belt): H&M Earrings & jeans(turban): STYLIST’S ARCHIVE opposite page Cloth: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE Salopettes: VINTAGE Belt: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE Earrings: STYLIST’S OWN
both pages Shorts: LEVIS Jacket: SISLEY Gilet: BENNETON Cloth, earrings & necklace: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE
photography: MAURIZIO FANTINI www.mauriziofantini.it stylist: MANICOMIX make up: NICOLETTA CONTEDUCA models: JESSICA SAMEA Dress: RALPH LAUREN Corsette: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE Cloth: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE Necklace: STYLIST’S ARCHIVE
END OF THE ROAD photography: KAILAS styling: JOEL MUR
Sunglasses: CHANEL Shirt: MODELS OWN VINTAGE Tie: VINTAGE BOLO
this page Back shift dress: STARING AT STARS SILKY ZIP Tie: VINTAGE BOLO Bracelets: VINTAGE Boots: GOLD DR. MARTENS opposite page Sunglasses: CHANEL
this page SUNGLASSES: PRADA Vintage mens roper western shirt: RE WORKED INTO A JUMPER Bracelets: VINTAGE opposite page Sunglasses: JIMMY CHOO Shirt: TOPMAN JEAN Bracelet: MODELS OWN Boots: GOLD DR. MARTENS
this page Sunglasses: PRADA Studded biker jacket: EXPRESS Shirt: VINTAGE DOLCE & GABBANA Jeans: TOPSHOP BLACK Boots: GOLD DR. MARTENS opposite page Cardigan: URBAN RENEWAL DUSTER Bracelets: VINTAGE
photography: KAILAS stylist: JOEL MUR model: MIK W/ FORD this page Sunglasses: DOLCE &GABBANA Jacket: BARLLL BIKER Dress: BARLLL opposite page Sunglasses: DOLCE & GABBANA Top: STARING AT STARS Knit pant: STARING AT STARS Shoes: TOPSHOP
COSMIC 70S ROCK photography: LELEN RUETE styling: DANIELA LAPORTA
photography: LELEN RUETE stylist: DANIELA LAPORTA concept, development & art direction: BY THE RABBIT HOLE STUDIO models: ROCÍO NUÑEZ BY CIVILES MGMT & CAROLINA SOLARI make-up: MONIQUE POUYSSÉGUR hair: ROCHI GOWLAND digital art: JUAN LITWILLER styling assistant: JORGE CORREA SILVERA & NIKKI ROURKE photo assistant: AYELÉN GAROBBIO clothes & accesories: ESTUDIO SOCIAS & THE RABBIT HOLE STUDIO thanks to: MIRU R. TRIGO & MARTÍN GERARDI / FARBONE STUDIO
I CAN’T HELP MYSELF photography: LaPEET styling: ELLEN UYEN
Trousers: RATNA HO
this page Top: ENELLE Skirt: REBECCA WARD opposite page Dress: REBECCA WARD Necklace: JAN BOELO
Top: TONY COHEN Trousers: JAN BOELO Shoes: WINDE RIENSTRA
this page Vest: JAN BOELO Spelt: THE END VINTAGE Legging: AUGUSTIN TEBOUL Bracelet: JAN BOELO opposite page Vest: AUGUSTIN TEBOUL Top: THE END VINTAGE Skirt: JAN BOELO
photography: LAPEET @ HMS AMSTERDAM stylist: ELLEN UYEN @ HMS AMSTERDAM hair & make up: ALEXANDRA LEIJS @ HMS AMSTERDAM for MAC cosmetics and Redken model: FELICE @ ROCKET GARAGE MODEL MANAGEMENT this page Top: RATNA HO Leather trousers: REBECCA WARD Rings and bracelet: FASHIONOLOGY
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