DEMUR February 2016
Shameless Fashion with Isidora Goreshter
CONTENTS
Demur Magazine
04 - Editor's Pick 06 - New York Fashion Week A/W 16 10 - London Fashion Week A/W 16 14 - 5 minutes with Dume Dume 19 - THE DESIREE DETERMINATION 25 - Shameless with Isidora Goreshter 32 - Who are the “Islanders”
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Contributors Noreen Chada - Editor
Shirley Dee- Fashion Editor Kay Samuel- Features Editor Nicole Samoto – Social Editor Stella Dzingai – Contributing Writer
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Editor’s Picks
Sport in ear plugs – Happy Plugs -£39.99
Patterned Dress – H&M £19.99
Contour Kit – TweezerMan £35.00 Amelia Freer Eat Hamper – Harvey Nichols - £50.00
Champagne Crooks Snapback Cap – Crooks & Castles - £35.00
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Demur Magazine
Coffee Organica Gift Set – El Voyage -£70.00
The Armore Earings – Lya Lya £55.00
Canvas Tote Bag – Accept Me - £11.00
Kiss Hero Mustard Pocket Square –Julie Egli - £42.00
Brow Definer – Anastasia Beverly Hills - £16.00 Premium Cosmos Bag – Mic Pac -£35.00
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New York Fashion Week A/W 16
10th – 18th February
EVENTS
#IAMNYFW Fashion Week Online, the website for all fashion week things related, has teamed up with FTL Moda and the Global Disability Network in hosting a pre-fashion week event #IAMNYFW. Picking up from recent conversations about ensuring fashion is more inclusive, the trend continues with big names such as Amy Schumer supporting the movement and the fashion world opening up its doors to equality. We have seen models with Down’s Syndrome on the Catwalk, models who have lost hair from Cancer gracing promotional campaigns. All these models have indeed become role models inspiring others who may be facing the same predicaments to not shy away from who they are. The #IAmNY event will be held in Manhattan on 13th February and among the invitees are models such as Shaholly Avers & Rebekah Marine. Tickets will also be available to the general public.
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Avid Swim Resort 16 Avid Swim will be presenting their 2016 Resort Collection during fashion week. The luxury swimwear brand based in New York, will be showcasing their Caicos Collection which includes a Limited Edition Swimsuit from Published Fashion Blogger Martha Luna from MdollNYC. Attendance will include editors from Latina Magazina and Cosmopolitan Magazine and esteemed fashion bloggers from all over the fashion world including Kryzada @kyrzada and The Fashion Addicts @thefashionaddicts.
Location: 15 E 27th St - 15 East 27th Street New York, NY 10016 Date : Thursday 11th Feb – 12pm Men’s Fashion International Presents Fashion Designer Mahiri Takai’s “Exclusive M.E Collection” We saw designer Mahiri Takai debut his M.E collection last season, which was well received in New York and beyond. Now he is back again with the Spring/Summer Collection. Influenced by is his love of clean lines and the understanding that there can be no grey areas in his relationships; it’s simply black or white. Mahiri Takai's unique designs are influenced by his love of architecture, cultural Cree, and again his obsession for black and white. Mahiri Takai’s M.E. Collection is the show you don’t want to miss this season. He is here with a wardrobe for men who love by the notion “Style Defined by no one. Style defined by M.E.!”
Location: Infinito studio-gallery - 79 LEONARD STREET New York , New York 10013 - Date: Friday 12th Feb – 7pm
Where are you going to eat? Co Ba Location: 110 9th Ave, New York, NY 10011
This little delicious food hub is inspired by the food stands in Vietnam. Serving delectable dishes such as the caramelised pork belly braised in coconut juice, the enticing menu is made up of small snacks, banh mi sandwiches, noodles and clay pot meals.
Sushi Yasuda 204 E 43rd St, New York 10017
So word on the street is that the fish is usually flown in from Japan! What?! What’s more you get to watch the chef prepare your food in front of you whilst chatting away with you. So food and a show. The bamboo-embellished space, tucked away in a basement makes you feel like you are in Tokyo minus the English speaking restaurateurs. We will not mention much about the prices, but it is worth the experience.
London Fashion Week A/W 16
19th – 23rd February
EVENTS
L o n d o n Fa s h i o n We e k Schedule.........
Emilia Wickstead, Holly Fulton, Mary Katrantzou and Temperley London will present their SS16 collections at London Fashion Weekend (LFWend), the bi-annual consumer event taking place at the Saatchi Gallery across the four days. New for this season, the British Fashion Council (BFC) have added a series of Talks to the schedule, including fashion designers Charlotte Dellal of Charlotte Olympia, Emilia Wickstead, Katharine Hamnett, Nicholas Kirkwood and Pam Hogg; celebrity stylist William Baker; singersongwriter and record producer, Roisin Murphy; and founder of Premier Models, Carole White. London Fashion Weekend is the ultimate fashion experience giving consumers exclusive access to catwalk shows; a curated talks schedule; designer shopping; and trend presentations. Taking place at the Saatchi Gallery over four days in February and September, the event allows consumers to experience the atmosphere of London Fashion Week and gain an insight into the fashion industry. It also gives designer brands the opportunity to meet and build direct relationships with new customers. Caroline Rush CBE, Chief Executive of the BFC, said: “London Fashion Weekend is at the forefront of the British Fashion Council’s strategy for extending the citywide celebration of London Fashion Week and engaging the consumer in related activity. We are continuously developing the programme to include more talks and brands.” Over 150 brands will be available for visitors to shop from, including A|X Armani Exchange, Antipodium, French Sole, Fyodor Golan, J.JS Lee, Linda Farrow, Jane Carr, Mawi, PB0110, Paper London, Pringle of Scotland and OSMAN. Tickets are now available online: For full details visit londonfashionweekend.co.uk. Packages include Bronze (from £20), Silver (from £40), Gold (from £60), LUXE (from £145) and LUXE Premium (£200). Image credit: Emilia Wickstead, SS16
One Big Launch
One Big Launch is a collective of inspirational artisans, creatives and designers who will be showcasing their work at this vibrant curated exhibition cum market. This event will be a standing-reception styled evening to launch, promote and sell individual products from the exhibitors. There will be over 20 artists, designers, writers and musicians with beauty products, books, CDs, clothes, fascinators, games, greeting cards, hats, home décor, jewellery, objets d'art, paintings and much more. This is a perfect evening for lovers of arts, books, fashion and music. This event is Date: 19th February – 6pm free but registration is required, so no Location: St Saviour - Walton Place. Knightsbridge. SW3 1SA GB excuse to miss it.
Britain's Top Designer 2016
This is it, the ultimate battle of designers. Now in its 4th season this competition is hosted by Fashions Finest and it is held in February during London Fashion Week to find the best emerging designer in the UK. Amongst the judges for the competition are Ewa Szczotka – Previously the Director of Marangoni International Fashion School and the wonderful Lewis Duncan-Weedon - celebrity stylist & Princes Trust Ambassador,Lola Royal - Celebrity Stylist & fashion presenter and Melanie Jones PR. Date: 21st February – 8pm Location: Grand Connaught Rooms - 61-65 Great Queen Street. Holborn, London WC2B 5DA
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Demur Magazine
Where are you going to eat? Berber & Q Location: Arch 338, Acton Mews, London E8 4EA
Berber & Q is among the many other grillhouses in Dalston. However, it offers a different and tasteful experience to its customers. As you enter this restaurant located on a back street, it feels as though you are entering a secret den. You are greeted by the sensational smell of the food cooking away on the charcoal grill and the friendly staff. It’s like being at a house rave with music blaring in the background and foods being served on trays to share. If there is one thing you must try it is the saffron- and lemon-marinated chicken, served with spit-roasted lamb.
Smoking Goat Location: 7 Denmark Street, London, WC2H 8LZ There is something about barbequed meat that brings people together and Smoking Goat which used to be a pub is the hot spot. Of course a cold beer is also important and so they have that covered, this restaurant is also inspired by Thai street food carts. The portions are huge and obviously made to share. The place is small and does often gets very busy and yes they do serve goat as well.
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5 minutes with
Dume Dume Jacqueline Ntephe is a Law graduate so you know she has got the brains and of course the beauty. Jacqueline took a completely different turn when she decided to enter the world of fashion and star her fashion brand Dume Dume. Dume Dume is here to broaden mainstream perceptions of 'African fashion'' through body adornment. We were only pleased when Jacqueline spared some time to chat to us.
Who is Dume Dume?
Dume Dume (pronounced Doom Doom) is a nickname derived from my first name, Dumebi. My dad used to call me that when I was much younger and it has stuck with a few Aunties till today. When I decided I was going to start designing commercially, I had to decide what I wanted my label to be known as. I brain stormed some ideas with my mum and considered using Dumebi or Jacqueline. It was one of my most indecisive moments! One evening, my mum suggested Dume Dume and I agreed instantly. It has such sweet ring to it.
How does Dume Dume convey the concept of internal and external identity through their designs?
Clothing ultimately has a functional purpose. Over time, we have given certain types of clothing a meaning due to customs, traditions, trends etc. Understanding this therefore, I think that we are not what we wear, but that what we wear can open up a window to who we are, how we think. I will make a piece which can be worn in a number of ways and by women of different shapes and sizes. This encourages Dume Dume women to explore new ideas of how they see themselves by how they choose to dress. The dress hire service particularly allows for this idea. It is for our ever growing society of bloggers, fashionistas and fashion conscious women who want to stand out at social events but don't necessarily want to commit to buying a new outfit every single time. I like to believe my designs encourage women to be creative with their wardrobe and explore the sides of themselves they may otherwise ignore – even if only for one day!
Dume Dume and their debut collection
My debut collection was born out of the desire to put out a body of work that the brand can finally be referenced to. I wanted to showcase a little bit of everything I like when I design for clients and when I design for myself. I also wanted to introduce the idea of authenticating mainstream African fashion by using the gold bubu and burgundy head wrap as the staple outfit of the collection. Aside from that there wasn't much structure to it. At that point it seemed unnatural putting together a uniform collection with one overriding colour or theme because life isn't always like that. Some days we dress like we're homeless, others we dress like queens. There are different sides to us and it should be okay for fashion to sometimes reflect this organically.
How can I be Dume Dume woman?
The Dume Dume woman is every woman! She is confident and shy; caring and selfish; hard working and care free. I have recently started to appreciate the power of women, we are physically and emotionally tough. As a designer who believes in the importance of understanding the parameters of an individual’s internal and external identity, I think it is important to welcome all women as they come. Is there a woman I can imagine not wanting to wear Dume Dume? Not really. Women are absolutely beautiful.
Where can we shop for our own Dume Dume gowns? ''All Ready to Rent pieces are available online at dumedume.com!''
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Ready to Rent/SS16: Photographed by Victoria Oshinusi (@burntivory) Modelled by Melissa Nombreuse (@otiva_) Make Up by Candiece Kingsley (@candiekosmetics)
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Dumebi by Dume Dume/AW15: Photographed by Mary-Ann Gregoriou (@missmgphotography) and Model Jacqueline Ntephe (@dumedume)
THE DESIREE DETERMINATION
There is determination and then there is the Desiree kind of determination. This young talented photographer, moved all the way from Australia to expand herself as a photographer. From what started off as a hobby, Desiree is passionate about photographing people. Desiree lives by the quote, “To photograph people is to violate them, by seeing them as they never see themselves, by having knowledge of them that they can never have; it turns people into objects that can be symbolically possessed. Just as a camera is a sublimation of the gun, to photograph someone is a subliminal murder - a soft murder, appropriate to a sad, frightened time.” You moved from Melbourne to London you say to push yourself further, what drove you to do that? A little bit of everything, if I’m honest. I am in love with Melbourne; but I think that love clouds vision, and sometimes you need to distance yourself from the things you love in order to get see the bigger picture. I’ve lived there since I was born, in the same bedroom, and everything was getting a too crowded and monotonous for me. I wasn’t able to push myself, so here I am!
Most of your photography is of people, do you think people actually understand/appreciate the artistry that’s involved in being a photographer? I think they appreciate it, but not so much understand it. If it’s a good photo, the model is appreciated. Or the makeup. Or the styling. A bad one, then my photography is to blame. People who work with other mediums can understand to a certain degree what goes into the art, but I think you need to be of the same form to really grasp it. But then again, I’ve met people without a creative bone in their body able to talk about photographs better than I can. I think it just depends on how the individual sees things, past first impressions.
What do you enjoy about London that you don’t have in Melbourne?
I enjoy the access to things, mostly. There is a lot going on in Melbourne, in fairness, but there is so, so, so much going on here, all the time. There’s always an event to go to, or a gallery, or a show. I’ve been able to grow here in ways I wasn’t able to in Melbourne, simply because of what I have access to. Other than photography based things, I love the theater culture here. We don’t really have that at home.
What are the key attributes you think a photographer needs in order to stay true to his/her art?
I have stuck by the idea that you have to shoot for you; from the day I picked up a camera. I know a lot of photographers always trying to impress a certain person, or make their photos fit into a certain box, but it isn’t really about that. If anything, that limits you. I think photographers, or any people in any medium ever, need to create to influence themselves, to push themselves, meeting and surpassing their own standards. I think that once you step inside that frame of mind, you can create to your full potential.
What’s your mantra and what keeps you going?
Same as above—shoot for you. I also love creating my work along the lines of “make pictures, not just take them.” As far as what keeps me going—I always want to be better than my last photo. I try and motivate myself, with myself. If that makes sense.
If you could be any fashion item, what item would you be and why?
Staying true to my roots, probably a pair of black, high-waisted, skin-tight jeans. I don’t know what I’d do without them. I guess I’d like to be a fashion item you can rely on, and that would be it.
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Photography: Desiree Cremona Model: Dani Fischer @danifischer www.dani-fischer.com Designer: Lucy @lucy_parallel
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Shameless with Isidora Goreshter
Isidora (“Izzy”) Goreshter plays the role of “Svetlana” in the critically-acclaimed Emmy nominated Showtime drama series, "Shameless". Izzy is very different from role "Svetlana." Goreshter’s combination of brains, sex appeal and her captivating performance will continue to steal the spotlight and hypnotize audiences in the highly anticipated sixth season of this fearlessly twisted drama series."Svetlana" was originally intended to be a small role, but Izzy was so good on the show, according to producers, that they kept writing for her character…and that was two seasons ago, two pregnancies ago, one failed arranged marriage ago, and a "breast milk sweatshop" ago. D. Season 6 is here and your character, "Svetlana" has been through some rough times, is it about to get better for her? Yes it absolutely is. Not without a few bumps in the road because well, it's "Shameless" and no one gets it that easy! But she's incredibly resourceful and smart and gets through just about anything life throws at her. She's working hard at the Alibi now and supporting herself and her son. I think she's happier than she's ever been, but definitely hasn't lost her edge, dry sense of humor and wit!
D. What sort of things do you do to get, in character, because of course "Svetlana" is very different from who you are? We actually are not that different! The writers and I have really moulded her from nothing and I've been lucky enough to add a lot of me to Svetlana. We have a similar sense of humor and can be very dry and sarcastic. The thing that helps me round her up the most is her wardrobe. Our costume department is the best led by Lyn Paolo and they have done such a great job with her crazy outfits. Once I put on one of her revealing tops, it transforms me instantly. D. You teach acting master classes and mentor young
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artists. Would you say you are still learning yourself and growing as an actress? Of course. An artist should never stop learning. I try leading a very Socratic lifestyle. Constantly asking questions and learning from every experience or job whether it was positive or negative. Teaching opened up a whole new perspective for me. I fell in love with it instantly. At the end of the day, the teacher becomes the student. I learn so much by watching these actors and playing with them in class. It's helped me realize what I still need to work on through teaching and watching. My mentor Anthony Meindl, whose studio I teach at and still take class with, approach to teaching changed my life. He has this way of helping you become a better person and in return that makes you a better actor.
the same time making you feel like you're part of its pulse when you're feeling lonely. I get very inspired there and can eat my face off with the most delicious food! D. What’s your mantra and what keeps you going? Don't take it personal. This business can bring you down more than it lifts you up. You have to have a thick skin and not take everything personally. I've found other things that make me happy other than acting which has helped me get through really tough times as an artist.
D. Now to all the important topic of fashion‌how would you describe your style when you are not working? I'm all about comfort. As much as I like dressing up and getting glamorous, I'm in jeans and a t-shirt every day. To me it's very sexy when a woman is in a good pair of jeans and a white t-shirt and a pair of good shoes. D. You must get to travel around with your work. Where would you say is your favorite place and why? New York City gives me life. I started going there as a young kid and fell in love with the city from a very early age. It has this special of way of allowing you to feel alone when you most need it and at
The sixth season of Shameless is now showing in the US on Showtime on Sunday at 9pm ET/PT Photography by Josh Ryan
Who are the “Islanders” We Are Islanders is an Art and Fashion House established in 2012 by; Rosie O’Reilly (Creative Director, ), Kate Nolan (Production and Operations Director) and Deirdre Hynds (Communications Director). The name came from many moments looking out to the Irish Sea. The metaphorical
landscape of an island is the backbone and vision for the label. Always ask questions about what’s beyond your viewpoint and what’s in front of you. So We Are Islanders works as a conceptual project where Rosie creates an artwork that responds to these questions and this feeds into the design process.
2. Why did you chose to base your latest collect around Hy-Brasil SS16 is called the Journey to Hy-Brasil. Rosie spent a lot of time
researching Hy-Brasil, a mythical Atlantean Island said to lie off the west coast of Ireland. Sea stories and legends formed part of the mist that is said to cloak its legendary isles, only clearing, according to Irish Folklore one day every seven years. The maritime obsession with the fabled island resonated across borders with the wanderings of nomads and explorers. Rosie O’Reilly, “This collection creates its own story by fantasizing about two female explorers of the 18th century, Ida Laura Pfeiffer and Jeanne Baré and their fictionalised journey to Hy-brasil. The two female botanists boarded a boat dressed as men to explore new life and form in nature, and became the muses for this collection.” “The journey to Hy-Brasil represents in many ways the need to move away from the linear in our understanding of form. One interpretation of the story is that Hy-Brasil was actually a shell 32
island that through erosion was moved and broken down over time. This raises interesting questions about landmasses, islands and borders. What if they are continually moving and never static, as we like to imagine?” These questions provided a start off point for a collection which is produced using Irish linens, hand painted bamboo silk, salmon leather, organic cotton twills and Muslin, and the process used is mainly hand - painted silk where inimitable markings are transferred on to silks and linens from of a traditional Irish wooden boat called a ‘currach’. The collection was showcased at London Fashion Week Sept 2015, and has garnered a fantastic positive international response to date.
3. How difficult/expensive is it to ensure your collections are locally produced? Kate Nolan, “The main issue we face right now is scale. We are a small brand so our quantities when buying are low in comparison with larger brands. This pushes our purchasing price up which we absorb right now. We also uphold principles to source ethically and with transparency; global demand for these products is making the supply chain more competitive but it is still a challenge when sourcing.” Free-hand printing features heavily in SS’16. The craft of printing has allowed us to explore the possibility of merging art and fashion. Through the use of free-hand painting techniques, which is all carried out locally, we produce fabric lengths in limited edition runs that are completely unique - inspired by the hand of the artist rather than a computer programme or digital machine. Mark making is an immediate process grounded in the present by virtue that each mark is one of a kind and no two prints are the same. While the process is simple, it takes discipline in preparation and application. 34
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It requires the painter to react to the dyes and colours rather than working from a technical plan... it's not something that can be reproduced, and this is something our customers value and treasure.
4. How does that affect getting your brand out of Ireland (in terms of promoting, distributing it etc) Deirdre Hynds, “The international industry has responded positively to We Are Islanders. There is an appreciation for the heritage crafts that we embed in our work, interpreting tradition through strong contemporary design. We use Irish textiles that have never been seen before and in ways that are unexpected so it keeps everyone interested and engaged, this presents its own logistical challenges, but the solution of which feed into the overall brand story and manifesto. We are passionate about our indigenous linen and wool industry, and really want to see it grow as we do. The focus first and foremost for us is quality, authenticity of design, and a high standard of customer service, both domestically and internationally, the rest will follow…”
5. You started your business 4 years ago, what are some of the things you have learnt about the fashion industry that you were not aware of? Well if we were to consider this question from the point of view of passing advice on to an aspiring designer starting out now, it would be along the lines of ‘Tell a story worth listening to with your brand. Don’t believe the clothes are enough; let them be part of something bigger, and don’t get discouraged by the brands with big budgets. To paraphrase 36
Phil Alden Robinson’s overused, but eternally hopeful sentiment, ‘if you build it they will come’...
6. If you could choose anyone to be your muse, who would it be and why? Ultimately we create wearable works of art for the adventurer, the explorer, the woman who wants to wear a garment that tells a story. Names like Tilda Swinton, Roisin Murphy, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Marina Abramovic, Margaret Atwood, FK Twigs, Sandra Hagelstam, Susanna Lau, Grace Jones, Joni Mitchell, Nancy Whang, Ulyana Sergeenko, Fiona Banner, come to mind, as does long time mentor and supporter of the label, artist David McDermott. We Are Islanders - SS’16 Disappearing islands, and a lifelong utopian quest. ‘The Journey to Hy-Brasil’
www.weareislanders.com Twitter: @We_areislanders Instagram: @weareislanders Pinterest: weareislanders Tumblr: weareislanders
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