Demur Magazine Smoke & Mirror April 15

DEMUR April 2015

Smoke & Mirror

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April 2015

DEMUR Magazine

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Editors Letter/Contents Page

April 2015

It’s spring already, although the other day it was just Christmas. The year is going and we are just moving along with it hoping it will end well.

Our April issue is packed with relevant and cool stuff for all you fashionistas out there. We have an exciting feature from the inventive designer, Xander Kostroma, who is the man behind our featured collection “Smoke & Mirror”. The excitement continues with our interview with Singer/Songwriter Logan Stryx who we previously featured in our “Musical Hawks” section. Looks like we were right on the money, he is certainly on to bigger and better things.

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and in honour of St George’s Day, we have selected some of the best places around the country, serving up a mean Full English Breakfast.

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and in honour of St George’s Day, we have selected some of the best places around the country serving up a mean Full English Breakfast.

We know spring comes with rebirth, so we have some new tasteful tips to rejuvenate your skin and give it a new glow.

It’s all waiting for you in our beautifully crafted issue full of fashion, music and pop culture.

Noreen Chada Editor

Contributors: Noreen Chada – Editor; Fashion Editor – Yemi Babas; Features Editor – Kaywana Samuels; Graphics Designer – Miodrag Veljović; Interns – Nicole Samoto, Stella Dzingai.

Web: www.demur.co Twitter: DemurMagazine Facebook: DemurMagazine Instagram: DemurMagazine Front cover: Photographer: Patrick Ford. Photography assistant: Diana Muertos. Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies. Model: Red

Demur Picks

English Breakfast

Musical Hawks

Pg: 4

Pg: 14

Pg: 20

Kostroma Smoke & Mirror

‘Ganutell’ Collection

Eat to be beautiful

Pg: 6

Pg: 17

Pg: 32

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Demur Picks V Neck Jumpsuit

by Wal G- Topsho £37.00

Calavera Swarovski crystal-embellished Perspex clutch Charlotte Olympia £1,055

Rose Petal Triple Milled Soap Oliver Bonas £3.50

Bugatti Vita Electric Juicer Selfridges £125.99

Small Vase H&M £6.99

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April 2015 Hemp Soap on a Rope The Body Shop £7.00

Linea Debbie Bonded Lace Jacket House of Fraser £33.00

Julia & Company Cerise Earrings ShopBop £31.22

Desigual Grecia White/Blue Dress Spartoo £47.84 Kain Bevan Striped Stretch Jersey Mini Dress The Outnet £58.50

Leather Moccasin with Tassels Zara £69.99

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DEMUR Magazine

Kostroma - Smoke & Xander Kostroma - Smoke & Mirror

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ashion is “Smoke and Mirror”, according to Xander Kostroma the man behind the label. Why is this fashion label different from what’s already out there? We hear you ask. Well to start with, the collection featured in this issue was made in Switzerland. The fabric was cut and sewn by hand. Perhaps we will leave it to the designer himself to talk us through the brand.

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Xander says fashion is all about sex.

ow a days, it seems everyone is desensitized to sex. Compare what it shown on TV now to 50 years ago and it’s another world. Sex scenes in films were merely suggested but now you see (almost) soft-core porn. It’s this notion of “sex sells” that we wanted to stick two fingers up to the rest of the industry and design a brand for what it is. We are an open, honest, ethical, menswear label; it’s as simple as that. We don’t take sex too seriously which is why we hyphen our brand name to S&M. Smoke & Mirror is more about taking the mickey out of this notion and designing what we actually think looks good, not what looks good because our models are half naked. Our FW15 campaign featured a model blind folded in one campaign image with his pants off, but this was merely a gimmick to what I was speaking about above. Anyone can take their kit off and sell an item as the selling becomes more about the body it was on, rather than the item it’s self.

Xander says it is important for the brand to have everything handmade and eco friendly We are an open label, there’s nothing hidden about what we do. We know our factory workers personally and we can trace our supply chain right back to the source, which is fantastic. We are working with a local factories meaning that what we produce is of excellent quality (no production lines) and we are helping our local community with regeneration and growth.

As we’ve moved into the 21st century, we’ve become this throwaway society.

No one really cares where their clothes are produced and at what cost. As dramatic as it sounds, our planet is literally dying because of the lack of respect we have for our Earth. Its essential brands start thinking about how, where and why clothes are made.

There are many alternative fabrics out there to use such as lycocell, bamboo & organic cotton, which are produced more environmentally friendly than the likes of nylon or polyester and are “better” for the planet to produce in the long run. Yes they may be a little more expensive to buy but the quality is 100% better.

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April 2015

Smoke & Mirrors encourages society to become more fashion conscious Our label was created, as there is a lack of high fashion, ethical menswear.

Through our market research, we have found there are hundreds of organic or ethical women’s wear labels, both in the luxury and high street brackets but when it cames to menswear it was difficult to find an on-trend, luxury menswear brand.

Guys are already switched on, and are thinking more about where their clothing is made. By tapping into the luxury market we aim to change the perception that ethical fashion is off-trend.

Coming from a designer background we are introducing into eco fashion more interesting shapes, cuts and prints showing guys that you can still look chic while helping out the planet.

The inspiration behind the current collection

We are inspired by the East, our casual wear focuses on the Samurai warrior. We loved the multitude of layers and fluidity of the fabrics as he fought. Formalwear we researched the aristocratic, dandy-man of the 19th Century. The sharp lines and the intricate tailoring intrigued us. With a 21st century twist we kept a monochrome pallet throughout with just a subtle accent colour of blue.

As a designer how does one balance creativity and business

Working in head office for fashion brands such as 7 For All Mankind & Guess, I started my career in the buying and merchandising departments where I learnt the necessary skills to manage a retail business. I apply what I’ve learnt over the last 10 years working in those brands to my label.

Don’t get me wrong, some days I just think sod it, I stop doing admin, take out a pencil and start to sketch away. I could be brushing my teeth and an idea will come to me, then my whole day is rearranged because I want to get it down onto paper. It’s a fine line, but I think I manage it well.

You can see more of Smoke & Mirror on: www.worldofsmokeandmirror.com and keep up to date on Facebook: Smoke and Mirror https://www.facebook.com/smokeandmirrorclothing?pnref=lhc

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Photographer: Patrick Ford.

Photography assistant: Diana Muertos.

Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies.

Model: Red

DEMUR Magazine

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Photographer: Patrick Ford.

Photography assistant: Diana Muertos.

Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies.

Model: Red

April 2015

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DEMUR Magazine

Photographer: Patrick Ford.

Photography assistant: Diana Muertos.

Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies.

Model: Red -10-

Photographer: Patrick Ford.

Photography assistant: Diana Muertos.

Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies.

Model: Red

April 2015

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Photographer: Patrick Ford.

Photography assistant: Diana Muertos.

Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies.

Model: Red

DEMUR Magazine

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Photographer: Patrick Ford.

Photography assistant: Diana Muertos.

Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies.

Model: Red

April 2015

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DEMUR Magazine

Treat yourself to a Full English Breakfast this St Georges Day Hawksmoor Guildhall -10-12 Basinghall St, London, EC2V 5BQ

Hawksmoor offer possibly the King of all breakfasts in London, in size and quality. Take your normal full English breakfast and add in bone marrow, a modest smoked bacon chop and what breakfast is complete without a little bubble & squeak? The trotter baked beans are second to none and not forgetting the mutton sausages. Hawksmoor serve the ultimate power breakfast for powerful City folk. Unfortunately as a vegetarian this may not be the place for you.

The restaurant has a corporate feel to it and sits 210 hungry bellies. Just in case you can’t finish off your portions, the waitresses are on hand to offer you a doggy bag to finish off your meal when you please.

Regency Café 17-19 Regency Street, London SW1P 4BY

The Lord Clifden 34 Great Hampton Street, Hockley, Birmingham B18 6AA

If you are looking for a greasy spoon in London, stop right there. Regency Café, with its original interior décor have on offer the ultimate breakfast for champs. The portions are generous and the succulent, soft hash browns are to die for. The café has

The Lord Clifden serve the meanest breakfast and best hangover cure in the Midlands. Here they take breakfast to another level.

With your Full English you can order a steak on the side…yes an eight ounce rump of sirloin steak. You get a full plate of meat galore together with your usual trimmings, egg, mushrooms, tomatoes and baked beans. As for the hangover cure… how about a good old Bloody Mary? Hangover or a sober head, you just need to get yourself to The Lord Clifden.

been used as a filming location for some of our favourite movies including Layer Cake, so if you are in the mood for a bit of celebrity spotting this may be the right place to get your breakie. The Regency Café has been voted as one of the cheapest places to eat in London, giving you more reason to visit the place.

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DEMUR Magazine

Charles & Ron Fall 2015 ‘Ganutell’ Collection We were excited when we saw Charles & Ron recently show their Fall15 collection. The collection called ‘wired bloom’ was shown at Chelsea Piers Studios as part of the award winning Nolcha Fashion Week.

The collection was inspired by the Maltese art form Ganutell. The intricate handmade flowers were turned into digital prints that were printed onto beautiful silk fabrics. The handmade flowers were also incorporated as decoration on some of the dresses and shoes.

The colour palette C&R used for this collection consisted of the gold and silver Ganutell wire colours and also black, off white and rich green and purple tones.

International top models walked the

C&R show. German top model Hana Nitsche (Russell Simmons girlfriend) , Gabrielle Kniery (Americas next top model cycle 14) and Jennifer Daniels ( project runway all stars) were among the models in the show.

The show was closed by thier muse top model Daniela Aciu . Daniela from Major models and ModelsM Malta was part of their inspiration and her image was printed on some of the garments.

Charles & Ron dressed Sydney Thomas (Nelly’s niece) who is a star on the reality TV show Nellyville. The popular TV show filmed the whole Charles & Ron fashion show and it will be featured on the popular TV show in the USA this summer.

Charles & Ron are supported by the Malta Tourism authority and we know more exciting things are to come from the duo. You can see more of Charles & Ron on www.charlesandron.com, Facebook: www.facebook.com/charlesandron, Instagram: www.instagram.com/charlesandron

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April 2015

Logan Stryx (Pronounced Strikes) first came to our attention last year in September, as we were surfing the net. Since then we have been hooked, we have been watching him like a hawk. The Singer/Songwriter from Manchester began his journey into music in March 2013.

He wrote a song about his son called ‘Best of Friends’ and released it on YouTube. The song received great reviews and caught the attention of some important people.

These important people made sure this talented lad was the opening act for ‘Christina Perri’ at The Ritz in Manchester last year. We were only too pleased that Logan could spare some time to fill us in on his music venture.

Logan, tell us your story. What brought you into the music business?

I picked up a guitar when I was 6 years old and I fell in love with it. I played, sang and wrote in Rock Bands at a very young age. Went to loads of gigs in Manchester and knew straight away that it was the only thing I wanted to do with my life.

Why do you think it’s so hard for talented artist, to break into the music industry?

I don’t know to be honest. I think a lack of funding and lack of contacts plays a huge role in it. Unfortunately, you need money to keep your dream rolling and I have found out that a lot of times, it is all about who you know and not what you know.

Your song “Best of Friends” is about your son who is very cute by the way, how does your life influence the music that you write?

Nice One! I can’t write about something I haven’t experienced myself. Every one of my songs tells you a story of my life. I just try and write it from a place where the listener can relate to it.

If you could invite any music artist to your studio to work with right now, who would it be and why?

Matt Bellamy (MUSE). I think he is an incredible talent and the contrast in our voices would make a very interesting record. He would be a great person to ask for music industry advice as well.

If it wasn’t for music what would you be doing right now?

I honestly have no idea because my whole life has been music! But right now I am a stay at home Dad and that is keeping me very busy.

If you could be any fashion item, what item would you be and why?

I would be Madonnas Cape from the Brit Awards. A LEGEND! Logan can be found at the following spaces, go and find him! https://youtube.com/loganstryx https://twitter.com/LoganStryx https://soundcloud.com/loganstryx

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Photography by Nidge at Trust A Fox Photography

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Hira Shah, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Hira Shah, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Altyna Akiniyazova, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director : Styleiconic Earrings: Biyuan Zhang, Top Designer: Catarina Niedermeier, Skirt Designer: Tiffany Jade, Jewellery: Jolita Jewellery

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Altyna Akiniyazova, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist : Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic

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April 2015

Photography: Steve Taylor, Models: Altyna Akiniyazova & Rio Blake, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Hira Shah, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Hira Shah, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic

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DEMUR Magazine

Photography: Steve Taylor, Models: Altyna Akiniyazova & Rio Blake, Hairstylist : Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist : Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant : Rio Blake, Creative Director : Styleiconic Model 1: Top Designer: Catarina Niedermeier, Skirt Designer: Alaqyane Cardy John, Jewellery: Jolita Jewellery, Visor: Xin Xin, Model 2: Visor: Supra, Earrings: Biyuan Zhang, Top Designer: Catarina Niedermeier, Skirt Designer: Tiffany Jade Holland

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Hira Shah, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic Hat: Lakila Henry, Top Designer: Alaqyane Cardy John, Socks: Network, Gloves: Stylist Own, Shoes: Ground Zero London

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Photography: Steve Taylor, Model: Hira Shah, Hairstylist: Jean Carlos de Blas, Make Up Artist: Lien Vy, Fashion Stylist: Lakila Henry, Photo Assistant: Rio Blake, Creative Director: Styleiconic Jewellery: Jolita Jewellery, 2x Dresses (one used for draping): Ground Zero London, Trousers: Tiffany Jade Holland, Heels: Carolin Holzhuber

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Demur Calendar

April 2015

Nick Waplington/Alexander McQueen: Working Process Until 17 May 2015, open daily 10.00am – 18.00pm Tate Britain, Millbank, London SW1P 4RG Price: £16.00 Tate Britain’s spring 2015 photography exhibition presents the result of a unique collaboration between the artist Nick Waplington and the acclaimed fashion designer Alexander McQueen. This major exhibition reveals McQueen’s working practice through a selection of around 100 large and small scale photographs, including images never seen before.

This artistic collaboration reveals a raw and unpolished side of the fashion world, juxtaposing candid images of McQueen’s working process with rigorously produced photographs of landfill sites and recycling plants, to create a powerful commentary on destruction and creative renewal.

Iconic Couture with WilliamVintage

16th April, 18:00pm –20:00pm Fashion & Textile Museum, 83 Bermondsey Street, London SE1 3XF Price: £15 / £12students includes entry to Thea Porter 70s Bohemian Chic plus an invitation to the book launch, signing and drinks reception at 7:30pm William Banks-Blaney brings us a history of twentieth century couture through a selection of 25 iconic vintage dresses. William enlightens us on the fashion designers who created the dresses and the women who made them popular. From Fortuny to Dior to Mugler, the inspiration behind each dress is considered – whether that be Classic statuary, Secessionist architecture or fetish wear – as well as its legacy within contemporary fashion, thus determining each dress’s place within fashion history.

William spends his life sourcing vintage couture. Accompanied by exquisite photography of what are arguably the finest examples of each of these landmark designers, and bolstered by fashion plates contemporary to the selected pieces, 25 Dresses is the distillation of the knowledge and skill that William employs every day when fitting the world’s most beautiful dresses to today’s women.

Images from left to right: Pink dress illustration ©Les Editions Jalou, L’Officiel, 1957 Mannequin images ©WilliamVintage

On 24th April, join the Fashion Revolution. Take a selfie showing your label. You could turn your clothes inside out to make more of a statement.

Tag the brand and ask

#whomademyclothes?

Together we will use the power of fashion to inspire change and reconnect the broken links in the supply chain.

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April 2015

Feed your skin

As the wind brushes against your face and the cold weather dries up your more, it leaves your skin feeling dry and scaly. Fear not as we present you with some ingredients that will replenish your skin and give you that extra glow.

Honey, Lemon Juice, Apple Cider Vinegar and Olive Oil Honey believe it or not, may possibly be the best thing that’s ever happened to your skin. With that in mind, grab that jar of Honey from your cupboard. Pour out 2 Tbsp into a small dish and mix with 1 Tbsp of Apple Cider Vinegar or Lemon Juice and just a few drops of Olive Oil. You can leave the mask of for about 20-30mins and then wash it off with lukewarm water. This mask will help to heal and moisturise your skin. However be sure your face is clean of any make up creams, to ensure the mask works effectively.

Please do not use White Vinegar as a substitute and be sure not to get any of the mixture into your eyes

Egg White, Avocado, and Natural Yoghurt Separating egg whites and yolks can be a trying task. Do not be tempted to use the shop bought egg whites. The whole point of this is to use natural products. Place your egg white in a small bowl together with one quarter of an avocado and then add in 1 Tsp of yoghurt. Mix all ingredients together well and then apply on your clean face, making sure not to get any of the mixture into eyes. Relax and the leave the application on your face for 15-20minutes and then risen it off with luke-warm water.

This formula will help to hydrate and exfoliate your skin restoring that natural glow.

Orange and Milk This masks requires you having to eat a few oranges a few in days in advance, reason being you will need to collect the dry orange zest of about 2-3 oranges. When the zest is dry, it will feel rough; you will need to grind it into powder foam. Once you have your powdered zest is ready, add in a few drops of milk and milk until you make a paste. Take your paste and apply it on to your face and leave it for 30minutes and then wash it off. Your face will start to fresh and airy, this is just orange zest cleansing your skin. Milk also helps to retain moisture.

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DEMUR Magazine Just in case you haven’t got time to make these homemade masks, you can also eat your way to beautiful skin.

Blueberries These little monsters are great for your skin as they are rich in antioxidants and your skin strongly needs antioxidants. Blueberries help you with anti-aging process which we are all so concerned about at this stage.

Almonds It turns out almonds are actually seeds and not nuts. Almonds are full of Vitamin E which works effectively as a sun blocker making sure your skin does not get burnt and protects you against pollution ensuring your skin is not affected by the obnoxious air.

Broccoli We will not lie and say it’s the tastiest vegetable in the world, but if it done well it can taste nice. Broccoli is good for you; again it’s high in antioxidants. The Vitamin E & C will leave your skin feeling healthy and protect you from UV radiation damage.

Fish (especially Salmon) No, this does not mean you can go down on a daily basis. Fresh fish contains Omega-3 fatty acids and these are good fats our skin needs. They help protect our skin from the sun and have been said to reduce your chances of getting some forms of skin cancer

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