Demur Magazine Smoke & Mirror April 15 by Demur Magazine

DEMUR April 2015

Smoke & Mirror

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April 2015

DEMUR Magazine

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Editors Letter/Contents Page

April 2015

It’s spring already, although the other day it was just Christmas. The year is going and we are just moving along with it hoping it will end well. Our April issue is packed with relevant and cool stuff for all you fashionistas out there. We have an exciting feature from the inventive designer, Xander Kostroma, who is the man behind our featured collection “Smoke & Mirror”. The excitement continues with our interview with Singer/Songwriter Logan Stryx who we previously featured in our “Musical Hawks” section. Looks like we were right on the money, he is certainly on to bigger and better things. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and in honour of St George’s Day, we have selected some of the best places around the country, serving up a mean Full English Breakfast. Breakfast is the most important meal of the day and in honour of St George’s Day, we have selected some of the best places around the country serving up a mean Full English Breakfast. We know spring comes with rebirth, so we have some new tasteful tips to rejuvenate your skin and give it a new glow. It’s all waiting for you in our beautifully crafted issue full of fashion, music and pop culture.

Noreen Chada Editor

Contributors: Noreen Chada – Editor; Fashion Editor – Yemi Babas; Features Editor – Kaywana Samuels; Graphics Designer – Miodrag Veljović; Interns – Nicole Samoto, Stella Dzingai. Web: www.demur.co Twitter: DemurMagazine Facebook: DemurMagazine Instagram: DemurMagazine Front cover: Photographer: Patrick Ford. Photography assistant: Diana Muertos. Hair + Make up: Jenni Davies. Model: Red

Demur Picks

English Breakfast

Musical Hawks

Pg: 4

Pg: 14

Pg: 20

Kostroma Smoke & Mirror

‘Ganutell’ Collection

Eat to be beautiful

Pg: 6

Pg: 17

Pg: 32

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Demur Picks V Neck Jumpsuit by Wal G- Topsho £37.00

Calavera Swarovski crystal-embellished Perspex clutch Charlotte Olympia £1,055

Rose Petal Triple Milled Soap Oliver Bonas £3.50

Bugatti Vita Electric Juicer Selfridges £125.99

Small Vase H&M £6.99

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April 2015 Hemp Soap on a Rope The Body Shop £7.00

Linea Debbie Bonded Lace Jacket House of Fraser £33.00

Julia & Company Cerise Earrings ShopBop £31.22

Desigual Grecia White/Blue Dress Spartoo £47.84 Kain Bevan Striped Stretch Jersey Mini Dress The Outnet £58.50

Leather Moccasin with Tassels Zara £69.99

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DEMUR Magazine

Kostroma - Smoke & Xander Kostroma - Smoke & Mirror

ashion is “Smoke and Mirror”, according to Xander Kostroma the man behind the label. Why is this fashion label different from what’s already out there? We hear you ask. Well to start with, the collection featured in this issue was made in Switzerland. The fabric was cut and sewn by hand. Perhaps we will leave it to the designer himself to talk us through the brand.

Xander says fashion is all about sex.

ow a days, it seems everyone is desensitized to sex. Compare what it shown on TV now to 50 years ago and it’s another world. Sex scenes in films were merely suggested but now you see (almost) soft-core porn. It’s this notion of “sex sells” that we wanted to stick two fingers up to the rest of the industry and design a brand for what it is. We are an open, honest, ethical, menswear label; it’s as simple as that. We don’t take sex too seriously which is why we hyphen our brand name to S&M. Smoke & Mirror is more about taking the mickey out of this notion and designing what we actually think looks good, not what looks good because our models are half naked. Our FW15 campaign featured a model blind folded in one campaign image with his pants off, but this was merely a gimmick to what I was speaking about above. Anyone can take their kit off and sell an item as the selling becomes more about the body it was on, rather than the item it’s self.

Xander says it is important for the brand to have everything handmade and eco friendly We are an open label, there’s nothing hidden about what we do. We know our factory workers personally and we can trace our supply chain right back to the source, which is fantastic. We are working with a local factories meaning that what we produce is of excellent quality (no production lines) and we are helping our local community with regeneration and growth. As we’ve moved into the 21st century, we’ve become this throwaway society. No one really cares where their clothes are produced and at what cost. As dramatic as it sounds, our planet is literally dying because of the lack of respect we have for our Earth. Its essential brands start thinking about how, where and why clothes are made. There are many alternative fabrics out there to use such as lycocell, bamboo & organic cotton, which are produced more environmentally friendly than the likes of nylon or polyester and are “better” for the planet to produce in the long run. Yes they may be a little more expensive to buy but the quality is 100% better.

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April 2015

Smoke & Mirrors encourages society to become more fashion conscious Our label was created, as there is a lack of high fashion, ethical menswear. Through our market research, we have found there are hundreds of organic or ethical women’s wear labels, both in the luxury and high street brackets but when it cames to menswear it was difficult to find an on-trend, luxury menswear brand. Guys are already switched on, and are thinking more about where their clothing is made. By tapping into the luxury market we aim to change the perception that ethical fashion is off-trend. Coming from a designer background we are introducing into eco fashion more interesting shapes, cuts and prints showing guys that you can still look chic while helping out the planet.

The inspiration behind the current collection

We are inspired by the East, our casual wear focuses on the Samurai warrior. We loved the multitude of layers and fluidity of the fabrics as he fought. Formalwear we researched the aristocratic, dandy-man of the 19th Century. The sharp lines and the intricate tailoring intrigued us. With a 21st century twist we kept a monochrome pallet throughout with just a subtle accent colour of blue.

As a designer how does one balance creativity and business

Working in head office for fashion brands such as 7 For All Mankind & Guess, I started my career in the buying and merchandising departments where I learnt the necessary skills to manage a retail business. I apply what I’ve learnt over the last 10 years working in those brands to my label. Don’t get me wrong, some days I just think sod it, I stop doing admin, take out a pencil and start to sketch away. I could be brushing my teeth and an idea will come to me, then my whole day is rearranged because I want to get it down onto paper. It’s a fine line, but I think I manage it well.

You can see more of Smoke & Mirror on: www.worldofsmokeandmirror.com and keep up to date on Facebook: Smoke and Mirror https://www.facebook.com/smokeandmirrorclothing?pnref=lhc

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