5 years in the making by DENHAM

YEARS IN THE MAKING

JASON DENHAM

LIMITED EDITION

1000

JASON DENHAM AND LIAM MAHER | TOKYO 2010

FOREWORD LIAM MAHER

We undertook to create this book mostly to celebrate five years of doing what we love.

私たちはこの5周年を記念する本のためにwhat we loveをクリエイトすることになりました。

Only five years and already a retrospective? Well, yes and no.

たった5年しか経っていないのに、もう本を作るのですか？と聞かれそうですが、それは一概にはイエスともノーとも言えません。

Denham is a brand that we hope is characterized by our love of products, our respect for the garment-making tradition, our passion for storytelling and our belief in the art of presentation. We’ve tried to express these values within our design process; The Truth is in the Details and Worship Tradition / Destroy Convention. We’ve endeavoured to share these convictions each season since our journey began and, as part of that effort, we’ve produced lots of obsessive little books, journals and tomes. We’ve even risked blasphemy by referring to some of these as our seasonal “bibles”. Many of our friends throughout the industry and people who have stumbled across these publications in the past have implored us to produce something that we could make slightly more widely available. Decades from now when we look back, we hope and expect that our 5th year will seem like the very beginning of this adventure. At the same time, we’re proud of what we’ve been able to create and very chuffed that folks have shown genuine interest and sent so much positive energy in our direction up to this point. We’re a very happy five-year old and this book is our birthday gift to ourselves, our collaborators and all of our supporters. Enjoy.

デンハムとは、私たちの愛して病まない製品、衣服づくりの伝統への尊重、ストーリーへの情熱、プレゼンテーションへの信念が特徴であると、私たちは望んでいます。デザインの過程でこれらの価値を特徴づける試みをしています。”ディテールの中に見いだされる真実。（神は細部に宿る）”と”伝統を重んじ、しきたりを壊す。”私たちはこれらの信念を、私たちの旅が始まって以来毎シーズン共有するよう努めており、その取り組みの一環として、沢山のこだわりを小冊子や、日記、研究書等にしてきました。私たちは毎シーズン“聖書”から何かしら参照し使用しています。沢山の私たちの業界の友人と、さらに過去これらの出版物に巡り会った人々から我々にもう少し幅広くプロデュースすることをすすめられました。今から10年後、私たちが読み返した時、私たちの15年目から見るとこの冒険はまだ始まりにすぎないと望み、またそうであることを期待しています。同時に、私たちはブランドをクリエイティブすることができたことに誇りと、現在に至るまで、人々が心から興味を示し、私たちのディレクションに素晴らしいエネルギーを送り続けてくださることに、大変なる喜びを感じています。5周年を迎えることができたことへの喜びと共に、この本は私たち自身や、私たちのコラボレーター、支援して下さる全ての方々へのバースデープレゼントです。

ジェイソン・デンハム。彼がデニム・ブランド、デンハムの代表である。しかし、彼の名刺の肩書きは、社長ではなく、デザイナーでもない。“the

jeanmaker”である

World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

JASON DENHAM IN HIS STUDIO MARK SEELEN

JA S O N D E N H A M ’ S S T U D I O I N C LU D I N G T H E L E G E N D S WA L L

THE CUTTER’S COUNCIL PRACTICAL CUTTING GUIDE

This antique pattern book called ‘THE CUTTERS’ belonged to Uncle Eric who lived in Leeds, England, UK. Eric was a master tailor who specialised in gentleman’s Crombie coats who in later life nurtured his skills into technical sailing coats from his New Zealand home. Quality and careful construction are central to the DENHAM label and the first collection drew inspiration from a coveted personal heirloom, printed in 1910 and sold at the time for 15 shillings. The first jean models were inspired by and named for traditional techniques discussed in the book, ‘CUTTER’, ‘DART ’, ‘TAPER’ & ‘TAILOR’.

The Tailor-made techniques have inspired detailing such as: (1) Boxed Button Holes for a clean finish and superlative wear. (2) Fully Bound Fly Panels as carefully considered on the inside as on the outside. (3) Tailored Chambray Waist with Triple-Chambray and Grosgrain, an artisan technique straight from Savile Row. (4) High-Grade Fish-bone pocketing for long-lasting utility and a classic hand feel.

INTRODUCTION JASON DENHAM

DENHAM by Jason DENHAM in his own words.

DENHAM by Jason DENHAM氏自身の文章です。

I have been working in the denim industry for 20 years; DENHAM brand is 5 years old, which represents a quarter of my career. The last 5 years have been the most rewarding and exciting times in my short history. My dream is to follow in the footsteps of the denim legends, the Godfathers of our industry who have inspired me thus far. Adriano Goldschmied, Renzo Rosso, François Girbaud, Nigel Cabourn and Karl Heinz Muller are the Kings of the jeans and workwear business and have inspired, directed and lead the trends for the last 30 years. I would like to thank all these people for inspiring me and for sharing their ideas and thoughts with me inside this book.

私は20年間デニム業界で働いてきました。デンハムは2012年で5年目となり、私のキャリアの1/4を占めています。私の短い歴史の中でも、過去5年間は最もやりがいと、素晴らしい刺激的な時間でした。私の夢はデニムレジェンド（デニムの伝説）の志を受け継ぐことです。私はこれまでデニム業界のゴットファーザーたちに励まされてきました。 Adriano Goldschmied（アドリアーノ・ゴールドシュミッド氏）、Renzo Rosso（レンツォ・ロッソ氏）、Francois Girbaud（フランソワ・ジルボー氏）、Nigel Cabourn（ナイジェル・ケーボン氏）、Karl Heinz Muller （カール・ハインツ・ミュラー氏）の名だたる方々は過去30年間に渡り、デニムビジネスの王となる、揺るぎない地位を確立し、希望を与え、トレンドを牽引し導いて来ました。私を奮い立たせてくれているこの方々に心より感謝を申し上げると共に、この本で一緒に彼らのアイディアと考えをシェアできることを改めて感謝申し上げます。

DENHAM brand was born on 14th January 2008. My wife and I picked up the keys to an empty gallery space on the Prinsengracht (canals) in Amsterdam. We started with 2 plastic chairs, a clear vision, relentless drive and a passion to create the next ‘mouth watering’ jeans brand. Very quickly we started to assemble a team of super talented designers & technicians to help us set up the mission of turning a zero into a one - ‘creating a brand’. One of the first to join the company was Ali Kirby (Art Director); we have worked together for about 15 years since we first met in Pepe Jeans. To say we have an understanding is an understatement. Ali is a genius in brand creation and together we formulated the ingredients of our brand story. The most valuable part of this company is the TEAM. In a very short time we assembled a very strong international bunch of creative and business heads who are AMERICAN, BRITISH, DUTCH, JAPANESE, FRENCH, etc. Getting together with Liam Maher was a click that I have never experienced with a designer before. Liam is very cagey (as he warned me in his interview) and quite unique. Liam is blessed with being part US and part British (he decides daily which he prefers to be) and he revels in European experience after living in Amsterdam for more than 10 years. Liam is a rural tailor and a serious scissor fetish obsessive, just like myself. The marriage was perfect and our shared passion for a ‘worship tradition’ (vintage) combined with a ‘destroy convention’ (reinvention) creative attitude is the perfect catalyst for this modernist DENHAM brand. DENHAM moves fast. Within 5 months the brand foundation was formulated and the first collection was ready to be presented to hungry buyers. The only problem was we had no sales team. Enter Joep Polack. The only guy who could ever sell ME a jean was Joep, a young buck denim lover working in Amsterdam’s famous SPOILED store. Joep joined our team as sales Rookie and has never looked back. His knowledge, passion and expertise in his field are way beyond his years. Season 1 was a success and today 10 seasons later DENHAM is selling in 22 countries worldwide in exclusive stores such as Colette (Paris), 14oz (Berlin) and Isetan (Tokyo). DENHAM HOUSES in AMSTERDAM, LONDON and TOKYO are the centrepiece of the retail presentation and satellite stores in Osaka and Amsterdam’s Runstraat complete the retail story so far. JAPAN has been one of my biggest passions for as long as I can remember. The taste level, the quality, the courtesy is unique in everything the Japanese do. I found the first Japanese store in the Daikanyama district of Tokyo in February 2010 and 4 months later we were open. The store was opened by Rin Tanaka (‘My Freedamn’) and managed by the legendary Stephane Muller (Little French denim maniac)…and a super nice guy. 1 .5 years later Mr. Aki San joined our team; this is when our Japan project really took off. Mr. Aki is very simply a ‘shopkeeper’ – just like myself. He loves the presentation, service and experience a store should provide. He knows how to put the magic in a store. Today Aki has built our Japanese business in the best stores and locations and Japan is one of the most important markets for this brand. LONDON is the heart of our brand and with a big part of our team being British it was always important that we created a presence in London, one of my favorite cities in the world. Charlotte Road in Shoreditch, East London is the home of DENHAM UK. Our brand was welcomed to Shoreditch by London’s finest, ‘Steve Davies’ and ‘Eddie Prendergast’ the great minds behind PRESENT. Steve and Eddie threw a welcome party for us and set up a pop up store inside PRESENT with great success. DENHAM CHARITY. After witnessing the devastating effects of the March 11th 2011 Tsunami in Japan, we started focusing our charity activities on helping the fisherman get back to work. We made new fishing suits and sponsored a fishing boat to help get the guys back on track. In September 2012 I visited the site of the tsunami and witnessed first hand the devastation it created. In contrast to the devastation I also witnessed the incredible Japanese spirit and powerful work done by the AD BOAT team. COLLUSIONS (collaborators - ‘working together in secret’), DENHAM has successfully joined together with some exceptional creative minds in the last 5 years to make great products. Possibly the most exciting part of our collaborations to date is the SXC project – SPACE EXPEDITION CORPORATION. DENHAM won the pitch to dress commercial astronauts and put the first ever jeans in space. First flight will be 2014, watch this space… Also, working together with British labels ‘A Child of the Jago’ and Aniary Bags spawned new ideas for our brand. Our HOUSE GUEST ARTIST series with SKULLJAN, Jake Noakes, LOK and PIRATE are now collectible pieces. The team ensures THE FUTURE of DENHAM and this gets stronger and stronger every year. In the beginning our team came together as young ambitious rookies and they have now developed into future leaders in this business. Vivian Holla joined us after completing her Masters in Strategic Management, and today she is driving our PR and marketing and has been one of the most important ingredients of this brand. Not withstanding her natural born model good looks. Recently, super talent ‘Marianne Fay’ joined our team to head up our women’s division and we have no doubt that this will draw new excitement for our women’s line. DENHAM owes special thanks to Patrick Maes who trusted and believed in my vision, and who played a large part in getting this project off the ground. Guided by Hans Pieterman, whose moments of genius have been invaluable in getting us this far with absolute trust, faith and support of my dreams.

デンハムは2008年1月14日に誕生しました。私は妻とアムステルダムのPrinsengracht（プリンセンフラハト / 運河）にある、何もないギャラリースペースの鍵を取りました。当初、プラスチックの椅子2つと、確信のあるビジョンと、執拗に”のどから手が出るほど欲しい”デニムブランドを製作する情熱への突進から全ては始まりました。まず、始めに”クリエイティブブランド”のミッションとしてゼロから1を造り出す特別才能のあるデザイナーや、さらに技術者のチームを編成しました。 Ali Kirby（アリ・カービィー氏）Art Director（アートディレクター）が最初にデンハムに就任しました。私たちはPepe Jeans（ペペジーンズ）で最初に出会って以来、15年間に渡り一緒に働いています。私たちの仲は互いを理解していると言うには、余りにも控えめな表現になってしまいます。アリはブランドクリエイションの天才であり、私たちデンハムのベースとなるブランドストーリーを一緒に考案しました。デンハムの会社で最も大切にしているのはチームです。短期間で沢山のクリエイティブとビジネスにおける核となる人材はアメリカ人、英国人、オランダ人、日本人、フランス人等と強力なインターナショナルのチームで結成しました。 Liam Maher（リアム・マーダー氏）と共に働き出したのは、私は今まで彼の様なデザイナーと出会ったことがなく、私の中で何かピンとくるものがあったからです。リアムはとても用心深く（実際に彼は私にインタビューの時に念を押されました）それでいてとてもユニークな人物です。リアムはアメリカと英国の恩恵を授かり（彼の毎日の気分によってどちらかの国を選んでいます。）、さらにアムステルダムに移住して10年以上を経て経験したヨーロッパを満喫しています。リアムはローカルテイラーであり私自身同様、真のハサミマニアです。私とリアムのコンビネーションは完璧で、私たちはモダニズムであるデンハム”伝統を重んじ”（ヴィンテージ）”しきたりを壊す”（リイノベーション）はワークウェアーの歴史に対しての深甚なる畏敬の念と、それらをクリエイティブし完璧に進化していくというデンハムの思いを共有しました。デンハムは急速に動いています。ブランドの設立から5ヶ月以内に公式化され、ハングリーなバイヤーの方々に発表する最初のコレクションの準備は整っていました。たった一つ私たちには問題がありました。それはセールスチームがなかったのです。 Joep Polack（ユップ・ポラック氏）が参加しました。私に唯一デニムを売ることができるのはユップだけでした。デニムをこよなく愛する若者はアムステルダムにある有名なSPOILED store（スポイルド店）で働いていました。ユップが私たちのチームにセールスのルーキーとして参加してから、彼は決して後ろを振り返ることはありませんでした。彼の持つ知恵、情熱、専門知識は彼の年の領域を遥かに超越しています。シーズン1は大成功を収め、現在デンハムはシーズン10を迎え、世界22ヵ国で展開しています。パリのColette （コレット）、ベルリンの14oz（フォーティンオンス）、東京のIsetan（伊勢丹）などの世界有数の店舗に展開しています。デンハムハウスはアムステルダム、ロンドン、東京と直営店におけるプレゼンテーションで最も重要な都市や、さらに重要都市と言える大阪やアムステルダムのRunstraat（ランストリート）はこれまで直営店の完璧なストーリーを表現しています。日本は、私の記憶の限り最も情熱を注いでいる国です。テイスト、クオリティー、国柄、その全てが他に類を見ない日本人だからこそ成し得ます。 2010年2月、私が最初に日本の東京に位置する代官山に物件を見つけ、それから4ヶ月後にデンハム店がオープンしました。田中凛太郎氏（‘My Freedamn’著者）と伝説のStephane Muller（ステファン・ミューラー氏 / リトルフレンチのデニムマニア）によってオープンすることができました。さらに1年半の時を経て、素晴らしい人柄を持つMr. Aki（根岸洋明氏）が私たちデンハムのチームの一員となり、ついに日本のプロジェクトが本格始動しました。ミスターアキは私同様にとてもシンプルな”ショップキーパー”です。彼はお店がお客様に提供するために必要なプレゼンテーション、サービス、実績を持ち合わせています。彼はどうしたらお店に魔法をかけるかを知っています。今日、アキが築き上げてきたビジネスは最高の店舗展開とそれに匹敵する最高のロケーションであり、私たちデンハムのブランドにとって最も重要なマーケットの一つとなりました。ロンドンは私たちデンハムの中心であり、ロンドンに店舗展開をしているということが重要なように、それは私たちチームが英国人であるという大きな部分を占めています。さらに私の別格に好きな都市の一つです。イーストロンドンに位置するShoreditch（ショーディッチ）の Charlotte Road（チャーロットロード）はデンハムUKのホームです。デンハムShoreditch（ショーディッチ）はロンドンの一流の方々に歓迎されました。それは P R E S E N T（プレゼント店）の偉大なるショップマスター’Steve Davies’ （スティーブ・デイヴィス氏）とオーナー’Eddie Prendergast’（エディ・ペンディグリスト氏）たちです。スティーブとエディはウェルカムパーティーを私たちのために開催してくれ、さらにデンハムの Pop up store（期間限定ストアー）をプレゼント店にて実施し、素晴らしい成功を収めています。デンハムチャリティー。2011年3月11日の日本で起こった津波による悲惨な計り知れない影響を目の当たりにした後、漁師の方々が仕事に復帰できるお手伝いをするという、デンハムのチャリティー活動に専念し始めました。デンハムは新しい漁師用のカッパ（ジャケットとパンツ）を作成し、また漁師の方々が復帰できるよう漁師船の支援をしています。2012年9月に私は津波の跡地でを訪れ、実際のすさまじさを目の当たりにしました。津波の残した傷痕とは対象的に、私は信じられないほどの日本人の魂とAD BOAT（アドボート）チームによる力強い達成もまた目の当たりにしました。コラボレーション（秘密を一緒に共有する）過去5年間で、デンハムはいくつかの特別なクリエイティブマインドと素晴らしいプロダクツを一緒に作り上げることに成功しています。デンハムのゲストアーティストシリーズはSKULLJAN（スカルジャン）, Jake Noakes（ジェイク・ノークス）, LOK（ロック）and PIRATE（パイレーツ社）とのコラボレーションです。さらに、英国レーベル ‘A child of the Jago’とAniary（アニアリ）バックとのコラボレーションにより、デンハムに新しいアイディアを生み出しました。恐らくこれまでのデンハムのコラボレーションの中で最も胸躍るエキサイティングなのはSXC プロジェクトです。ーSPACE EXPEDITION CORPORATION（宇宙旅行コーポレーション）ーデンハムは宇宙飛行服の権利を所得しました。それはデニムが史上初宇宙に行くということです。初飛行は2014年の予定です。ぜひこの宇宙をご覧下さい…。チームはデンハムの未来を意味し、それは毎年強くなっています。最初デンハムのチームはヤングルーキーたちの大志と共に始まりました、それが今では未来のリーダーへと成長しています。Vivian Holla （ヴィヴィアン・ホラ氏）はデンハムのモデルとして参加し、今ではデンハムの最も重要な要素の一つ、PRマーケティングを担当しています。最近では、素晴らしい才能を持つMarianne Fay（マリアン・フェイ氏）が私たちデンハムチームにレディースを統率するため参加し、彼女がレディースラインの新たな興奮を描くことに何ら疑いはありません。デンハムは特にPatrick Maes（パトリック・マウス氏）の信用と私のヴィジョンに対しての信頼の恩義に感謝申し上げます。パトリックはこのプロジェクトを発足するにあたり大きな役割を果たしてくれました。フラッシュインスピレーションの天才Hans Pieterman（ハンズ・ピーターマン氏）によるご指導を授かることにより、極めて重要な、絶対的な信頼と信念を持ち私の夢をこれまで支えて下さっています。

T H E D E N H A M T E A M - PA S T A N D P R E S E N T

A 7- P O I N T 5 - F I N G E R E D S A LU T E PUT YOUR HANDS IN THE AIR FOR THE HAND OF THE WORKER

It’s simple. As we put our hand down on a piece of cloth and draw a natural pocket line around its circumference the result is a 7 point outline. Our signature 7-Point pocket is considered by some to be a brave departure from the convention of denim’s traditional hip pocket profile. But for us it always made sense. For us it symbolizes the hand of the worker at the

heart of our shared workwear heritage. This basic iconic form can be seen across all Denham collections; from 5-pocket jeans to plain pocket-tees, from work shirts to outerwear. We’ll always be inspired by workwear. We’ll always strive to inspire each other – the workers who make the brand. So we all put our hands in the air for the hand of the worker. Fuck yeah.

CONTENTS

5 YEARS IN THE MAKING

p .1 - 3 2 0

5 FLOORS

p .1 4 - 2 9

5 STORES

p.30- 63

5 SHOWS

p . 6 4 -7 5

5 EVENTS AND MORE

p .7 6 - 8 5

5 CENTURIES OF D.G.L.

p . 8 6 -1 0 3

5 S I G N AT U R E D E T A I L S

p .1 0 4 - 1 0 5

5 POCKET JEANS

p .1 0 6 - 1 7 7

5 YEARS IN WRITING

i n s e t p .1 - 4 0

5 DENHAM LEGENDS

i n s e t p . 3 -7

5 YEARS OF COLLECTIONS

p .1 7 8 - 2 5 3

5 GUEST ARTISTS

p.254-259

5 COLLUSIONS

p.262-269

5 COLLISIONS

p.270-277

DENHAM HOUSE #1 | PRINSENGR ACHT 493 - 495, 1016HR AMSTERDAM

5 F L O O R S ( and a v ery fine b asement ) DENHAM HOUSE AMSTERDAM One step inside the DENHAM design studio and even a casual observer can sense what’s going on. Fewer than half-a-dozen creatives with a combined experience of over half a century in the field of workwear and utility garment design apparently share a deep seated view that now it is their turn. Born in the 60’s and 70’s and weaned on the design cultures of the 80’s, 90’s and 00’s they share a universal and passionate culture that transcends their individual regional perspectives.

Despite having cut their creative teeth in the rich and varying landscapes of the UK, Europe and the US they rarely require extensive dialog to determine direction.

Replacing the standard chatter of trend analysis and market tactics is the throb of music, the reassuring whir of an industrial sewing machine, the gnashing of scissor blades and more mysterious sounds of experimentation, all which combine to create an atmosphere that is equal parts workshop, laboratory, research center and dynamic modern design atelier. The team is still young and naïve enough to try new approaches. And they’re still young enough to work with the sometimes, breakneck momentum associated with youthful enthusiasm. But they’re also experienced enough to work with a confidence and discipline that ensures a constant focus on quality, workmanship and execution. For them the truth is in the details.

“ E X P LO R I N G T H E 5 S TO RY B U I L D I N G O F T H E D E N H A M B R A N D FL A G S H I P S TO R E I N A M S T E R DA M I S L I K E WA L K I N G A RO U N D I N A M O D E R N J E A N S FA C T O R Y W H E R E S H O P, S E R V I C E C E N T E R , K I T C H E N , S T O R A G E , L A R G E S H O W R O O M S , D E S I G N A N D AT E L I E R S PA C E M E R G E TO G E T H E R W I T H N O S T R I C T B O R D E R S B E T W E E N T H E M ” .

A L E X A N D E R M O U S T | C U LT J A - J A N . 2 0 1 2

PHILIP JINTES

DENHAM GARMENT LIBR ARY 4

G R A P H I C AT T I C

DESIGN STUDIO PHOTO STUDIO

PRODUCTION FINANCE MERCHANDISING E TA I L MARKETING STUDIO

PRESS ROOM LOGISTICS JASON DENHAM’S STUDIO

A G R E AT R E C E P T I O N KITCHEN

-1

SALES SHOWROOMS 15

D E N H A M R E C E P T I O N B E F O R E R E N O VA T I O N

A COLLECTION OF AUTHENTIC SCISSORS EXHIBITED THROUGHOUT THE BUILDING

G RO U N D FLO O R

RECEPTION

A G R E AT R E C E P T I O N | 1 , 97 7 A D H E S I V E B AC K E D AC RY L I C L E T T E R S ; 3 8 6 W O R D S

デンハム・ハウスの昼食。スタッフはキッチンに集まり、用意された食材を思い思いに食べる。もちろんそこではディスカッションが絶え間ない。連動するアーカイブを形成する秘密の一端がここにあるのでは？ World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

-1 F LO O R

S O N JA’ S K I TC H E N

F E E D I N G O U R S TA F F, C U S T O M E R S A N D F R I E N D S

AUTUMN SAL AD butternut squash peeled and sliced as many different kind of mushrooms you can get 4 table spoons of thyme salt and pepper table spoon of chili flakes rocket leaves handfull of walnuts handfull of pecans soft goats cheese( use as much as you would like)

SALAD DRESSING balsamic vinegar olive oil squeeze of lemon juice salt and pepper a few sprigs of thyme

RECIPE Put the butternut squash in the oven with 2 table spoons of thyme ( take more if you like) , olive oil, salt and pepper and the chili flakes. Take them out as soon as they get soft. Bake the mushrooms with a table spoon of thyme, olive oil and salt and pepper. Make the salad by mixing the rocket, butternut, mushrooms, the nuts and the goat cheese. Sprinkle the dressing over the salad.

-1 F LO O R

MENS SALES SHOWROOM

-1 F LO O R WOMENS SALES SHOWROOM

3 RD F LO O R

DESIGN STUDIO

“ … I M E A N C ’ M O N D O W N T O T H E V E R Y L A S T D E TA I L , T H I S P L A C E A N D T H I S G U Y K N O W W H AT D E TA I L R E A L LY M E A N S … I ’ M S U R E T H E S H O E M A K E R S E LV E S T O O K V O L U N TA R Y R E D U N D A N C Y T O G O W O R K W I T H T H E J E A N M A K E R . T H E R E ’ S M A G I C I N T H E A I R H E R E .”

STEVE MONAGHAN | SELECTISM - AUG. 2009

1 ST F LO O R

PRESS ROOM & MARKETING STUDIO

4 TH F LO O R G R A P H I C AT T I C

LIBRARIAN IN RESIDENCE - MR. LIAM MAHER

4 TH F LO O R

DENHAM GARMENT LIBR ARY

T H E D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A RY V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M A T E R I A L

その最上階にアーカイブを持っている。どのブランドでもアーカイブはもっているだろう。が、ここで特筆すべきはそれを惜しみなく公開しているということだ。「なぜアーカイブをオープンにするかというと、私たちは単に古いモノをトレースするつもりがないからです。私たちがやっているのは、リ・デザインであり、リ・シンキングです。古いモノから新しいモノを生み出しているのです。アー

カイブは、スタートポイントでしかありません。だから私たちはアーカイブをみんなとシェアするべきだと思っていますし、ホームページなどで詳細を公開しているんです」とジェイソンは当たり前のように言う。なるほど……とはいいえ、こう言い切り、実行するというのは、リ・デザインにかなりの自信があってのことだろう。 World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

W O M E N S S T O R E | R U N S T R A A T 1 7, A M S T E R D A M

PHILIP JINTES

5 STORES HIGH AND RISING 1. AMSTERDAM MENS - Our first own-retail location, or Denham House, adjacent to our headquarters was established in Amsterdam’s “Nine Streets” neighborhood directly in our own backyard. 2. TOKYO - The second Denham House in Tokyo represented a pilgrimage to the spiritual home of artisan denim craft in Japan. 3. OSAKA - Recently complimented with a store in Osaka.

5. AMSTERDAM WOMENS - Our first women’s boutique at 17 Runstraat in Amsterdam’s Nine Streets neighborhood has been created to showcase the full collections in both the denim and non-denim categories for women. Distinguished by the mix of pure modernism, rock-and roll edge and bohemian nonchalance, these collections are complimented by lifestyle and accessory items from other speciality labels. A unique cooperation with Gallery Vassie forms the basis for a rotating art exhibit which kicks-off with a display of selected photographic works by famed fashion photographer, Duffy.

4. LONDON - The third Denham House location in London re-connects us to Britain’s tailoring heritage, exerting a steady influence on our signature approach to detail. The journey to England also represents a homecoming for Jason who was born and raised in the UK. Putting down roots in East London’s famously frenetic Shoreditch neighborhood, we have reanimated a history drenched four story warehouse, transforming it into a hub for the United Kingdom.

MENS STORE | PRINSENGR ACHT 495, AMSTERDAM

PHILIP JINTES

P H I L I P J I N T E S / A L I K I R BY

S E R V I C E C o . | B E S P O K E R E PA I R S E R V I C E , A M S T E R D A M

PHILIP JINTES

“ . . . Y O U C A N S TA R T Y O U R S E L F O F F W I T H A F R E S H PA I R A N D W AT C H T H E M W E A R I N A S T H E Y E A R S P R O G R E S S . S A F E I N T H E K N O W L E D G E T H AT I F A N Y T H I N G N E E D S F I X I N G Y O U K N O W J U S T T H E G U Y S T O D O I T P R O P E R LY A N D O N T H E B E S T E Q U I P M E N T F O R T H E J O B .” RO B S A M P S O N | L I N E A G E O F I N FLU E N C E - A P R . 2 01 1

PHILIP JINTES

D E N H A M H O U S E # 2 | F L A G S H I P S T O R E & S H O W R O O M S . 〒1 6 0 - 0 0 2 2 東京都新宿区新宿３ - 1 ４ - 1 新宿伊勢丹メンズ館６ F デンハム | 〒1 5 0 - 0 0 3 3 東京都渋谷区猿楽町 2 5 - 8

デンッハムは増殖し続けている。代官山にあるデンハム・ストアは、確実にDNAを受け継いだデンハムの一部として存在している。 World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

DENHAM HOUSE #3 | FL AGSHIP STORE & SHOWROOMS. 32 CHARLOTTE ROAD, SHOREDITCH, LOND ON

L E E L AY C O C K / A L I K I R B Y

W O M E N S S T O R E | R U N S T R A A T 1 7, ‘ d e 9 s t r a a t j e s ’ , A M S T E R D A M

PHILIP JINTES

B R I A N D U F F Y P H O T O G R A P H Y E X H I B I T I O N | C O U R T E S Y O F G A L L E R Y VA S S I E , A M S T E R D A M PHILIP JINTES

WEBSITE | DESIGNED WITH NO BEGINNING OR END - L AUNCHED DEC. 2009 R E C O G N I S E D I N T H E 2 0 1 0 C R E AT I V E R E V I E W A N N U A L F O R P O S S I B LY H AV I N G T H E M O S T C O N F U S I N G I N T E R FA C E O F A L L T I M E .

w w w . d e n h a m t h e j e a n m a k e r. c o m

“ D E N H A M H A S L A U N C H E D A N E W A N D D R A S T I C A L LY E N H A N C E D O N L I N E S T O R E T H AT ’ S O N E - O N - O N E C O M PAT I B L E W I T H I T S B R A N D C O N C E P T.” A N D R E A S M U E L L E R | S U P E R F U T U R E - M AY 2 0 1 1

W H I L S T TA K I N G A B R E AT H E R F R O M M A K I N G S C A L E D A R C H I T E C T U R A L M O D E L S , O U R G O O D F R I E N D A D A M C R E AT E D F O U R M I L L I M E T R E P E R F E C T S H O P - I N - S H O P M A Q U E T T E S . A C O M B I N AT I O N O F J E A N S A N D T O P S D I S P L AY E X A M P L E S W I T H O P T I O N S O N S H E LV E S A N D R A I L S ; S C I S S O R AT TA C H M E N T S ; S I G N A G E ; L O W S H E L F F O R S T O C K A N D D I S P L AY; 3 D W I N D O W S I G N S ; S C I S S O R - S H E L F - F I X T U R E S ;

S C I S S O R - R A C K - F I X T U R E S C O M B I N I N G F O L D I N G A N D H A N G I N G D I S P L AY S .

w w w. s t u d i o t r a n s u e . c o m

D E N H A M C O L L E C T I O N S H AV E B E E N P R E S E N T E D AT S O M E O F T H E M O S T B E A U T I F U L S T O R E S I N T H E W O R L D

DENHAM DESIGN | DENIM INTEGRITY

14oz | BERLIN

L A N E C R AW F O R D | H O N G KO N G

ASHFORD

アッシュフォード

AMERICAN RAG | L.A.

L E O N E | VA N C O U V E R

BARNEY ’S NEW YORK

バーニーズニューヨーク

ACCENT | LEEDS

LUISA VIA ROMA | MIL AN

B AY B R O O K

ベイブルック

BUNGALOW | STUTTGART

LOK AL HEROZ | ROTTERDAM

BEAMS

ビームス

B E L E TA G E | S T U T T G A R T

MAISON DE BONNETERIE | DEN HAAG

BEKKU

ベック

BRONIGEN | STUGGART

MICHAEL CHELL | WINDSOR

B I N G O YA

ビンゴヤ

BLEECKER | SEOUL

M I M I N O O R | B AT H

DOUBLE SOUL

ダブルソウル

BEST OF BRANDS | HOOGLAND

N ä ä s B omullsfabriken | G O T H E N B O R G

FAV O R

フェイバー

BL ACK WHITE DENIM | CHESHIRE

OVER THE R AINBOW | TORONTO

HANKYU

阪急百貨店

BL ACK | DEN HA AG

PRESENT | LONDON

HERGE

エルジュ

CHOICE | KENT

PHILIP BROWNE | NORWICH

INDIGO

インディゴ

C O L E T T E | PA R I S

PILOT | LEICESTER

I S E TA N

伊勢丹

COUNTRY HOUSE | ROTTERDAM

PS YCHE | MIDDLESBOROUGH

JACK A LOPE

ジャッカロープ

COGGLES | YORK

REISCHMAN | ULM

JEANS GEO

ジーンズジェオ

CRUISE | GL ASGOW

R E V O LV E R | S A N F R A N C I S C O

L’ A N T I C O G U A R D A R O B A

ランティコガルダローバ

DANIELS | COLOGNE

SELFRIDGES | UK

MALIBU

マリブ

DANTONE | MIL AN

SIMON & RINOLDI | COLOGNE

M I T S U K O S H I N A G O YA

三越

FLEBBE | HAMBURG

S I X W H I T I N G S T R E E T | B U R Y S T. E D M U N D S

NUBIAN

ヌビアン

GER ARDS LOFT | FLORENCE

STIERBLUT | MÜNCHEN

RAG RAG MARKET

ラグラグマーケット

GLUE | MELBOURNE

SÖREN | HAGEN

RON HERMAN

ロンハーマン

HABAKUK | WÜRZBURG

STUDIO 25 | FINLAND

SEIBU

西武百貨店

HARRY ROSEN | TORONTO

TA T L E R | O S L O

TOBU

菅原靴店

H A RV E Y N I C H O L S | U K

TIENDAS FOR | BILBAO

TRANSFER

東武百貨店

KASTNER & ÖHLER | GRAZ

VMC | ZURICH

S U G AWA R A

トランスファー

KAHOONA | ZÜRICH

VA N D I J K | W A A L W I J K

UNIQUE JEAN STORE

ユニークジーンストア

L A B E L S | S I T TA R D

WESTSIDE | DEN HAAG

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : COLETTE COLETTE

M A G N I F I C E N T LY H A R D T O P R E D I C T C O L E T T E , PA R I S

There’s no denying Colette’s mystique and prestige within the worlds of both international fashion and haute street style. The shop’s long commitment to delivering a seamless combination of shopping, art experience and cafe culture results in a fully immersible experience that remains a gold standard in Paris. The reason we hold Colette in such high

esteem is because of their famously belligerent resolve to curate their offering according to only their own unique, sometimes idiosyncratic vision. We’ve been very proud on each occasion when our work has passed through their rigorous filtering process and found its way into their remarkable shop at 213 Rue Saint-Honoré.

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : PRESENT

MAN ABOUT TOWN P R E S E N T, L O N D O N More articulate folks than us have rhapsodised about Eddie Prendergast and Steve Daviesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; unwavering ability to see the future as well as the present. And, forgive the wordplay, but also to present the future. When we ventured back to England (a couple of us having been born there) it was Eddie and Steve who proved the most generous hosts. Unofficial ambassadors of East London, they furnished us with introductions the way a respected uncle might have written

a letter to be carried by a young character, off to find his fortune in a story by Dickens. Even more generously they dedicated the window of their prestigious Present store on Shoreditch High Street to help us promote the opening of our shop in the same neighbourhood. We will be forever humbled by this remarkable gesture just as we will always be just a little smug that our designs have played a small part in Prendergast and Daviesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; legendary retail vision.

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : AMERIC AN R AG AMERICAN RAG

A L L ROA D S L E A D TO L A B R E A AMERIC AN R AG, LOS ANGELES

We’re not too proud to admit that Amsterdam can sometimes seem a bit far from the American Gold Rush that started it all. The big bang theory as it applies to California’s role in the history of denim workwear. So when American Rag allowed us to pitch our tent within their destination La Brea store we felt like our designs have completed a long journey to their spiritual home. American Rag’s low-key blending of

well-curated vintage (we’ve sourced key pieces in our own Denham Garment Library from their rails) together with their down-to-earth presentation of the world’s most elite brands creates an utterly unique spin on the concept of a global denim emporium. The culture of blue jeans, workwear and utility tailoring seems to run through the veins of the staff there every bit as much as it does ours.

From the crew at DENHAM to the crew at AMERICAN R AG. Thanks for introducing us to America.

C U T F R O M T H E S A M E C L O T H : I S E TA N

T H E E P I T O M E O F TA S T E A N D R E F I N E M E N T I S E TA N , T O K Y O Starting out life in 1886 as a Kimono store and reinventing itself as a full department store in 1926, there are not many other stores in the world that represent refined sophistication with as much effortless elegance and noble stature as Isetan. Whenever we enter we are struck by the powerful sense of tranquillity and meditative calm – characteristics very seldom associated with large department stores. On the contrary,

Isetan is far from your ordinary department store. Like discriminating shoppers from all over Japan, we’ve also been making perennial pilgrimages to Isetan to track the progression of our own favourite labels since our first ever trip to Tokyo. It’s even over a decade since those early visits, and we’re now very grateful that our designs have been included among their elite selection.

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : HANKYU

MINTING ST YLE SINCE THE 1940s HANKYU, GINZ A , TOKYO

A stand-alone business since the late 1940’s, Hankyu Department stores opened a new dedicated menswear concept in October of 2011 in Tokyo’s Ginza district. The Ginza was the name of a silver currency mint established in the area during the Edo period. Starting at the end of the 1800’s the neighborhood named after it, has been minting high-style on the international

stage. The Ginza has become synonymous with the epoch of luxury and the area has long been renowned for introducing premium western concepts into the Japanese market. That our designs, with their modest workwear roots, could find their way into this onto this dazzling and prestigious stage represents both a surreal irony and a source of genuine pride for us.

C U T F R O M T H E S A M E C L O T H : N A M B A PA R K S

OSAKA A B O W S H O T F R O M J A PA N ’ S C O R E O F C R A F T S M A N S H I P N A M B A PA R K S , O S A K A When we opened our Osaka store, the team from Denham Japan arranged for us to tour nearby Kyoto.Though we’d visited Japan dozens of times, this was our first experience in the district. We knew its reputation for deep heritage and tradition - we’d heard about the tea houses and the temples. But thanks to the network of our Japanese colleagues, linked together on our behalf, we were invited to visit places like the last silk-marbelizing dye house in operation where we witnessed an approach to

textile design that was equal parts artistry and meditative dance. As we made the brief trip back from Kyoto to attend the Denham store opening ceremony we were still buzzing with the energy of this area’s continuous commitment to creative craftsmanship and a spirit that bridges ancient history with the present day. The fact our work has now been a small feature on this landscape is an accomplishment we deeply cherish.

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : MAISON DE BONNETERIE MAISON DE BONNETERIE

MAGIC UNDER DOMED GLASS SKY MAISON DE BONNETERIE, AMSTERDAM & DEN HA AG

In our industry there aren’t too many stores that can boast a history reaching back to 1889. That’s only 16 years after JW Davis figured out how to put rivets into blue jeans. Built in 1905, its flagship store isn’t that much younger. With architecture inspired by the Louvre, the design’s incredibly leaded glass dome refracts the often

moody Amsterdam sun to create a shimmering atmosphere unmatched anywhere else. When we see our designs bathed in that wash of timeless light and imagine our work taking its place in the parade of style hosted by Maison de Bonneterie’s that stretches back over a century, we’re very chuffed indeed.

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : BEST OF BR ANDS

T H E B U TC H E R O F B LU E A N D T H E B E S T O F B R A N D S BOB STORE, HOOGL AND Bob Rijnders’ Butcher of Blue swung its axe down on conventional retail recipes as quickly as Scorsese’s Bill the Butcher used his to dispatch his rivals. Raging against all the standard theories, Bob has replaced pencil-pushing analytic with something infinity more potent: passion; his own and that of his zealous team on the sales floor. Following the same basic tenants as Ray Kinsella Bob knew that if he built his own Field of Dreams… -they would come. His

Butcher of Blue store in “the Centre of Holland”, Hoogland, has created its own centre of gravity for aficionados from far and wide. Since Denham is also a product of the Netherlands and Bob is much more than a Denham buyer, it is hard to confine our relationship to a simple written description. Suffice to say that his incredible store will always be a home away from home for our designs.

C U T F R O M T H E S A M E C L O T H : 1 4 o z , K urf ü rstendamm 14oz

F RO M H U M B L E D E N I M RO OT S TO H E RO I C S T Y L E I N S T I T U T I O N 1 4 o z , K urf ü rstendamm , B E R L I N

Getting clothing designs from the drawing board into somebodies wardrobe isn’t simple. It requires the vision and bravery of fashion buyers as well as the faith and engagement of the final customer. There is nobody more invested in

energizing that journey than Karl Heinz Muller and his team. Simultaneously reinventing the fashion fair with their Bread & Butter concept, they have dedicated equal vigour into the powerful 14 oz retail store experience....

CUT FROM THE SAME CLOTH : 14oz, MITTE 14oz

F RO M H U M B L E D E N I M RO OT S TO H E RO I C S T Y L E I N S T I T U T I O N 14oz, MITTE, BERLIN ...Now brought to life both in the Mitte at their original location and in the Westâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s KurfĂźrstendamm at Cumberland Haus, the 14oz stores are the twin epicentres of authentic individual style in Berlin. Moreover these heroic

denim Mecca are admired across our industry by connoisseurs for their uncompromising commitment to quality. We regard our place in the 14oz portfolio as a serious achievement. For us it is a sort of badge of denim honour.

A D enham P op - U p and T ravelling C ircus ( . . a n d n o w f o r s o m e t h i n g c o m p l e t e l y d i f f e r e n t )

T H E D E N H A M V I R G I N S TO R E & S E RV I C E CO. M A D E I T S P O P - U P S T Y L E D E B U T L A S T W E E K W I T H I N B E R L I N ’ S L E G E N DA RY D E N I M S TO R E 1 4 O Z . A S P E C I A L T H A N K Y O U T O O U R H O S T S F O R T H E I R H O S P I TA L I T Y D U R I N G O U R S TAY. - J A N . 2 0 1 2

* * C H A I N S T I T C H H E M A LT E R A T I O N S E R V I C E * * * * H O L E S | K N E E R E PA I R S E R V I C E * * * * P R E -A G I N G S E RV I C E ( 3 m o n t h & 6 m o n t h ) * * * * H A N D WA S H S E RV I C E ( D E N H A M S OA P : n a t u ra l e n z y m e s ) * * * * C US TO M L A B E L L I N G S E RV I C E * *

18th - 20th Januar y 2012 14oz BASEMENT Neue Schönhauser Strasse 13 Berlin

D E N H A M W O M E N S FA L L ( 1 2 ) E X H I B I T I O N | 2 n d F LO O R , 1 4 o z S T O R E , B E R L I N - JA N . 2 0 1 2

5 SHOWS ROLE UP FOR THE MAGIC AL MYSTERY TOUR

Tradefairs can be magic. But like a magical spell they donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t last long. They allow our peers and the buyers who are committed to our concept to enter directly into our brand in a state of otherworldly perfection. In some ways, they allow these visitors to join us in a vision of our future. Like magic, trade fairs can leave both the magician and the subject in a slightly altered state, still humming from the encounter weeks and

months after the main event. Every magician needs a stage and we have enjoyed a unique stage at Bread & Butter in Berlin as well as the Pitti Uomo in Florence, and every magician needs a trusted assistant. For us Leon and his team have performed the wizardry that has made our designs possible. Thank you Leon for 5 years in the making.

D E N H A M A T P I T T I U O M O | F O R T E Z Z A D A B A S S O , F L O R E N C E . U R B A N PA N O R A M A , M A G A Z Z I N O 0 2 - S P R I N G ( 1 1 ) C O L L E C T I O N

FA L L ( 1 1 )

“ E AT I N G L U N C H W I T H K A R L H E I N Z , A D R I A N O G O L D S C H M I E D , N I G E L C A B O U R N , R E N Z O R O S S O , F R A N C O I S G I R B A U D , E L I O F I O R U C C I … T H AT W A S K I N D O F F U N N Y, A W K W A R D A N D A M A Z I N G A L L AT T H E S A M E T I M E . K A R L- H E I N Z A N D B R E A D & B U T T E R B R I N G T O G E T H E R A L L T H E L E G E N D S I N O U R I N D U S T R Y.” J A S O N D E N H A M - B R E A D & B U T T E R 1 0 Y E A R B I R T H D AY B O O K

T H E N W E TA K E B E R L I N

SPRING (10)

FA L L ( 1 0 )

FA L L ( 1 2 )

SPRING (13)

D E N H A M A T B R E A D & B U T T E R | T E M P E L H O F A I R P O R T, B E R L I N . L . O . C . K . H A N G A R 7 - S P R I N G ( 1 0 ) C O L L E C T I O N

D E N H A M A T B R E A D & B U T T E R | T E M P E L H O F A I R P O R T, B E R L I N . L . O . C . K . H A N G A R 7 - FA L L ( 1 0 ) C O L L E C T I O N

D E N H A M A T B R E A D & B U T T E R | T E M P E L H O F A I R P O R T, B E R L I N . L . O . C . K . H A N G A R 7 - S P R I N G ( 1 1 ) C O L L E C T I O N

D E N H A M A T B R E A D & B U T T E R | T E M P E L H O F A I R P O R T, B E R L I N . L . O . C . K . H A N G A R 7 - FA L L ( 1 2 ) C O L L E C T I O N

W O M E N S G A L A E V E N T AT 1 4 oz S TO R E , B E R L I N . 2 n d FLO O R S H OW RO O M - JA N . 201 2 AILINE LIEFELD

GALA EVENING Wednesday 18/01/12 - 7:30pm - 10pm

14oz. P R I VA T E S H O W R O O M ( 2 n d F l o o r ) Neue Schรถnhauser Strasse 13 Berlin

D E N H A M E V E N T A T H A R R Y R O S E N S T O R E - “ H A R R Y ’ S U N D E R G R O U N D L O U N G E ” , T O R O N T O , C A N A D A - O C T. 2 0 1 1

5 EVENTS AND MORE DENHAM GEZELLIG Fashion is an industry famed for its voracious party appetite. Over the last five years we’ve been very lucky to have some genuine reasons to celebrate and lots of fantastic people to celebrate with. When we’ve brought folks together to toast the inauguration of a new store, the launch of a new collection or the commemoration of a special collaboration, we’ve managed to enjoy all the shimmer and style of chic guests, clinking champagne flutes, sipping sake cups and the occasional burst of a

camera-flash that make for an exciting soirée. And we’ve also managed to avoid the usual fashion traps of hype and pretense thanks to laid back attitude of our team, the enthusiasm of our network and the positive energy of our fantastic customers. Each party has felt warm and real – like a family reunion. Here in the Netherlands they have a word for it; Gezellig.

W O M E N S S T O R E O P E N I N G PA R T Y, A M S T E R D A M - M AY 2 0 1 2

R E I N I E R RV DA

THANKS FOR COMING

S T O R E O P E N I N G PA R T Y, A M S T E R D A M - J A N . 2 0 0 9

PHILIP JINTES

それを証明するかのように、代官山のとある場所には、週末になると行列ができる。デンハム・ストアに並ぶ人たちだ。ひとりでに多くの人に試し穿きしてもらおうというスタンスが功を奏したのか、口コミでできた行列だ。 World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

S T O R E O P E N I N G PA R T Y, D A I K A N YA M A - J U N E 2 0 1 0

Opened by Jason Denham & Rin Tanaka 83

L O N D O N S T O R E O P E N I N G PA R T Y O C T. 2 0 1 0

L E E L AY C O C K

“ I T ’ S A L W AY S N I C E ( A N D N O T I C E D ) W H E N A B R A N D P U T S A G R E A T D E A L O F A T T E N T I O N I N T O T H E L I T T L E , A L M O S T P O I N T L E S S , D E TA I L S A T A N E V E N T A N D D E N H A M D I D E X A C T LY T H A T W I T H S T Y L E A N D C L A S S . T H E A T T E N T I O N T O D E TA I L W A S I N C R E D I B L E . W I T H B R A N D E D C H A M PA I G N G L A S S E S , C U S T O M M A D E S A K E B O T T L E S T H A T L O O K E D L I K E V I C T O R I A N M E D I C I N E , B R A N D E D S A K E S H O T G L A S S E S A N D D E N I M H A N G E R S T H A T L O O K E D L I K E O L D V I C T O R I A N B R A S S H A N D L E D S C I S S O R S S TA B B E D I N T O T H E W A L L . I T ’ S FA I R T O S AY T H A T T H E Y W E N T I N H A R D O N P R E S E N TA T I O N … A N D T H A T I S A L W AY S A P P R E C I A T E D .”

T H E D A I LY S T R E E T - S Y N A M AT I X - O C T. 2 0 1 0

L E E L AY C O C K

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W H E N YO U D E D I C AT E YO U R E F F O RT S TO CO N T I N U I N G T H E T R A D I T I O N YO U ’ V E I N H E R I T E D , YO U G A I N AC C E S S TO A W E L L O F R E S E A RC H A N D I N S P I R AT I O N T H AT G ROW S D E E P E R W I T H E V E RY G E N E R AT I O N .

5 C E N T U R I E S O F V I N TA G E A R C H I V E S B E F O R E W E C R E AT E D W E CO L L E C T E D WORSHIP TR ADITION . TR ADITION TEACHES QUALIT Y Before we created we collected. But we collect not just to acquire; we collect to examine, analyze, and to learn. Decades in the making, the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY supplies the raw material for our research, design and development. We can’t benefit from tailoring traditions unless we understand them better, and new ideas crumble if they’re not built on a strong foundation. Each item in the library tells a story and each one represents a starting-point for our collections.

Our single-minded obsession with workwear is the primary inspiration for the brand. Our conviction that deep knowledge comes with extensive research is central to the whole studio’s approach. The label’s own growing archive is home for an expansive collection of archetypal jean models as well as workwear, military clothing and travel gear from the last century all the way up until today.

D E STROY CONV ENTI ON . CONV ENTI ON PR EV ENTS PROGR ES S We know our predecessors, our contemporaries and our competitors. We take inspiration from anyone and any place producing relevant ideas but we’re never content simply to reproduce someone else’s approach even if that person’s name has been safely lost to history. The research feeds our passion and our passion is to progress our tradition ever forward.

L O C A T E O N LY T H E D E E P E S T A N D M O S T D U R A B L E N A T U R A L C H A R A C T E R I N H E R E N T I N T H E PA S T A N D E X P O S E I T T O O N LY T H E M O S T C O M P E L L I N G A N D E N E R G I Z I N G P R O V O C A T I O N S O F T H E F U T U R E . T H E PA S T A N D F U T U R E O W E E A C H O T H E R T H A T.

R E S E A R C H T H A T C A N L I T E R A L LY F O L D T O G E T H E R T I M E A N D P L A C E

(you are headed here) the future

the past

W E CO L L E C T I N O R D E R TO C R E AT E

R E S E A RC H : D . G . L . - G E R M A N “ T RO O P T E S T I N G ” L E AT H E R B O M B E R - 1 9 92 I N S P I R E D : D E N H A M J O C KO JAC K E T - R E - C U T D E A D S TO C K D U TC H A R M Y P O N C H O S

R E S E A R C H : D . G . L . - ‘ T H E A M E R I C A N B R A N D ’ T R O U S E R C U T D E N I M PA N T I N S P I R E D : D E N H A M PA T R O L - L . A . R O S E B O W L V I N TA G E B O R O W O R K PA N T

‘A L I B R A R Y I M P L I E S A N A C T O F FA I T H ” .

VICTOR HUGO

R E S E A R C H : D . G . L . - D O U B L E B R E A S T E D W O O L M E LT O N U S N AV Y P E A C O A T RESEARCH: D.G.L. - SPORT TOURING MOTORCYCLE JACKET BY SCHUH - GERMANY I N S P I R E D : D E N H A M LO N G S H O R E JAC K E T - C A M E L L E AT H E R & F OX B ROT H E R S W O O L E N P E A COAT

R E S E A R C H : D . G . L . - A M E R I C A N W O R K S H I R T c .1 9 4 0 ’ s I N S P I R E D : D E N H A M G R A I N S H I R T - A U T H E N T I C 4 o z C H A M B R AY W O R K S H I R T I N G

FENCING FIELD JACKET ASYMMETRICAL RING & EYE CLOSURE 1950’S (Sourced London)

BLACK SATEEN WORK JACKET WOODEN BUTTONS 1940’S (Sourced London)

FOUL WEATHER GEAR DOUBLE CENTRE PLACKET 1920’S (Sourced Tacoma)

FRENCH FUSILIERS JACKET INDIGO BLUE LINEN 1910 - 1920 (Sourced Tokyo)

REGIMENTAL STYLE TUNIC BRITISH HAND PADDED INTERIOR (Sourced London)

Telogreika Jacket Quilted with Tab Closures 1930 - 1950 (Sourced Berlin)

US Firefighter’s Jacket Patina’ed Canvas and 3M 1960 - 1970 (Sourced Tacoma)

French Airforce Crash Crew Jacket Silverized with Snap-Clip Closures 1970 - 1980 (Sourced Paris)

Band Jacket Front Zip with Faux Ball Buttons 1970 - 1980 (Sourced Amsterdam)

KOREAN ARMY TUNIC MISMATCHED SOLID & CAMO LININGS AUSTERITY PERIOD (Sourced New York)

US ARMY IKE JACKET HAND PAINTED WITH SOUVENIR ARTWORK 1945 - 1946 (Sourced New York)

AMSTERDAM FIREFIGHTER’S JACKET FIELD MODIFIED TO ACCEPT TRANSCEIVER 1950’s (Anonymous gift to Amsterdam store)

SPANISH ARMY TUNIC Sahariana Construction 1940 -1950 (Sourced New York)

Japanese Army Shirt WW2 Hinged Underarm Vent Flaps (Sourced Tunbridge Wells)

US Serviceman’s Baseball Jacket Rayon with Souvenir Embroidery 1945 -1955 (Sourced Tokyo)

US Navy Pea Coat Wool with Rayon lining 1967 (Sourced Pasadena)

British Army Tunic Tropical Airtex Fabric Ring & Eye Buttons (Sourced London)

Deadstock Japanese Army Shirt Tropical Theater Fabric Wooden Buttons (Sourced Tunbridge Wells)

US Army Shirt Nylon with Hand Embroidered Souvenir Art 1966 - 1967 (Sourced New York)

Dutch “G-Man” Jacket . . . we think . . . Horsehide (Gift from Sanne’s father)

DEADSTOCK BRITISH ARMY TUNIC DEADSTOCK COLLAR STIFFENER & BUTTON STUDS 1930 - 1940 (Sourced Tacoma)

French Hunting Jacket Wide Wale Corduroy w/ Hound Buttons 1950-1960 (Sourced Paris)

French Linen Casual Jacket 1 Half OF a T wo Piece w/ hidden selvedge 1920 - 1925 (Sourced Paris)

Mae West Life Vest Dutch Air Force 1980-1990 (Sourced Amsterdam)

Belgian Mountain Parka Tightly Woven Cotton with Bone Buttons 1945 - 1955 (Sourced Tokyo)

Grafted Work Jacket Wide Wale Corduroy Waistcoat with Sateen Sleeves 1930 - 1940 (Sourced London)

US Army Tunic Double Placket with Ring & Eye Buttons 1950 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1960 (Sourced Los Angeles)

USAF C1 Survival Vest Imprinted Survival Pockets with Contents Including; Flint and Flare 1940-1945 (Sourced Tokyo)

Dutch Foul Weather Gear Talcum Powdered Interior with Rubber Welded Seams 1980 - 1990 (Sourced Amsterdam)

Sack-Cloth Tail Coat Woven Jute with Plaid Motif and Velvet Banding 1910 - 1920 (Sourced London)

US Army Medic POW Coatt 3-Button Sportcoat Pattern 1940 - 1945 (Sourced Boston)

Turkish Army Tactical Vest Velcro Closure with Cargo Cartridge Pockets 2000 - 2010 (Sourced Istanbul)

German Mountain Parka Reversing from Snow White to Filed Green WW2 (Sourced Plymouth)

Swiss Army Field Jacket Custom Made in Leather from Traditional Pattern (Gift from Sander)

French Air Force Bomber Jacket Blue Leather with Boxed Button Waist Adjuster 1975 - 1985 (Sourced Paris)

British Army Battle Dress Custom Made in Lambskin from Military Patterns 1940 - 1945 (Sourced Edinburgh)

Belstaff Black Panther Jacket Rubberized Cotton with Welded Seams 1960 - 1970 (Sourced London)

Washington University Varsity Jacket Lasley Knitting Co. Seattle 1955-1965 (Sourced Freemont)

Swiss Army Greatcoat Loden Wool with Calvary T will Lining 1950 - 1960 (Sourced Amsterdam)

Motorcycle Courier Trench Loop Terry Macintosh Cavalry T will 1950 - 1960 (Sourced Tokyo)

Eastern European Trenchcoat Black Vinylized Cotton with Wool Facings 1965 - 1975 (Sourced Noord Scharwoude)

Eastern European Peasant Coat Double Inverted Box Pleat Peplum Handmade (Sourced Berlin)

Printed Lingerie Top Integral Corseting Bones 1910 - 1929 (Sourced Paris)

Zelinka-Matlick Sportcoat Shaped and Darted Waist 1940-1950/New Look (Sourced Paris)

Martin Bernard Leather Jacket Two Breast Pockets, T wo Waist Pockets, Two Hip Pockets, Heavy Zip Closures. 1965-1975 (Sourced Pasadena)

Eastern European Peasant Coat Pieced Yarn-Dyed Lining Handmade (Sourced Berlin)

Lace Lingerie Top Broderie Anglaise and Plain Weave Cotton Victorian (Sourced Edinburgh)

Wool Cabane Jacket Grey and Blue Melton w/ Molded Bakelite Buttons 1945 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 1955 (Sourced Tokyo)

Hand Made Leather Ranch Jacket Stab-Stitched w/ Leather Thong-Lace Detailing, Fully Unlined. Buttons 1965-1975 (Sourced Pasadena)

Hill Tribe Jacket Handmade 1940 - 1950 (Sourced Bangkok)

Ribbed Sport Undershirt Ribbed Jersey Tubular Knit 1920 - 1940 (Sourced London)

Wool Jersey Swim Costume One Piece Yarn-Dyed Stripe 1917 - 1927 (Sourced Tokyo)

Baseball Knit with Badges Rayon Linen Blend 1950-1960 (Sourced Japan)

Deadstock Koretigans Denim Jacket Railroad Stripe by Koret of California 1950-1960 (Sourced Minneapolis)

Scarf-Wrap Wool Coat C&A Vintage 1975 - 1985 (Gift of J. Haeberle)

Chambray Shirt Contrast Fleur-de-Lys Embroidery 1975 - 1985 (Sourced Amsterdam)

Gil Bret Trench Coat Designed by Betty Barclay 1955 - 1960 (Sourced Paris)

Discharge Printed Blouse Silk Charmeuse 1970 - 1980 (Sourced Amsterdam)

Trench Coat Traditional Macintosh Construction Inspired by Great War Officer’s Trench 1985 - 1995 (Sourced Amsterdam)

Aztec Print Dress Placement Print and Colour Contrast Made in Japan (Sourced Paris)

End of Day Shirt Colour Block Rayon Panels King James of California (Sourced Los Angeles)

Geometric Print Blouse Silk Broadcloth 1965 – 1975 (Sourced Amsterdam)

JAPANESE BORO KIMONO 1900’S (Sourced Japan)

FRENCH WORKSHIRT 1930’S (Sourced London)

JAPAN OFFICER’S TUNIC AUSTERITY PERIOD, MISMATCHED INNER FACINGS 1940’s (Sourced New York)

DEADSTOCK FRENCH TROUSER 1940 (Sourced Japan)

BRITISH MILITARY WW11 (Sourced UK)

BORO PAINT JAPAN RICE FIELD EARLY 1900’S (Sourced Japan)

FRENCH WORK PANT 1950’S (Sourced Japan)

FRENCH WORK PANT 1940’s (Sourced UK)

JAPANESE CEREMONIAL WEDDING SUIT 1890’S (Sourced USA)

BIG YANK “HEAV Y GRAFTED” WORKSHIRT 1930-1940 (Sourced Japan)

BUDDY LEE PORCELEIN ORIGINAL 1950’S (Sourced Japan)

FRENCH WORKERS TUNIC 1940’S (Sourced USA)

LEVIS XX 501 1960 (Sourced Japan)

LEE 101 1960 (Sourced USA)

LEVIS 517 1970 (Sourced Belgium)

DEADSTOCK LEVIS BIG E 201 DATE UNKNOWN (Sourced Japan)

EVIS 2000 (Sourced The Netherlands)

LEVIS 501XX 1950’S (Sourced Japan)

LEVIS 501 1960’S (Sourced USA)

M A S T E R TA I L O R S C I S S O R c . 1 5 5 0 ( F R A N C E ) . M A D E F R O M V E R Y H E AV Y F O R G E D S T E E L , W I T H A L A R G E C E N T R A L P I N R E Q U I R I N G T W O TA I L O R S T O O P E R A T E : O N E H E L D T H E P I N A N D B A L A N C E D T H E W E I G H T, W H I L S T T H E M A S T E R TA I L O R O P E R A T E D T H E C U T T I N G B L A D E S . E A C H E M B O S S E D S TA R M A R K D E N O T E S A G U I L D Q U A L I F I C A T I O N O F T H E TA I L O R . T H I S I S O N E O F T H E E A R L I E S T S C I S S O R S W E K N O W O F T H A T F E A T U R E S T H E M O D E R N 2 - PA R T A S S E M B LY.

D . G . L . S C I S S O R S - 1 6 T H C E N T U R Y F R E N C H M A S T E R TA I L O R ’ S S H E A R S O F E N O R M O U S S I Z E

W I S S W A S E S TA B L I S H E D B Y J A C O B W I S S W H O S E I N V E N T I V E A P P R O A C H I N C L U D E D T H E C R E A T I O N O F A G R I N D I N G W H E E L P O W E R E D B Y J A C O B ’ S S T. B E R N A R D D O G W A L K I N G W I T H I N A W H E E L . O R I G I N A L LY F R O M T H E T I M B U R N S C O L L E C T I O N O F P E N N S Y LVA N I A , S H A R P E N E D R E G U L A R Y A T T H E S H A K E R C U T L E R S E S TA B L I S H M E N T.

D . G . L . S C I S S O R S - 1 9 T H C E N T U RY J . W I S S & S O N S . N E WA R K , N E W J E R S E Y

H A R D W O R K I N G T U R N - O F -T H E - C E N T U R Y S TA P L E O F T H E TA I L O R ’ S T R A D E , T H I S I S T H E O R I G I N A L PA I R U S E D B Y J A S O N D E N H A M T O CUT HIS FIRST JEAN.

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D . G . L . S C I S S O R S - ( G E R M A N Y ) I N D U S T R I A L R E V O L U T I O N E R A . B . K I S S N E R G R O S S , U M S TA D T, B U N D E S L A N D

T H E C I T Y O F B L A D E S , S O L I N G E N I S T H E G E R M A N E Q U I VA L E N T O F S H E F F I E L D I N T H E U K O R T O L E D O I N S PA I N . T H E A R E A H A S B E E N FA M O U S F O R F O R G I N G B L A D E S S I N C E T H E M I D D L E A G E S . I N T H E 1 7 T H C E N T U RY A R O G U E G R O U P O F G U I L D S M E N B L A D E - M A K E R S B R O K E T H E I R F R A T E R N A L O A T H S B Y TA K I N G T H E I R T R A D E S E C R E T S A B R O A D A N D S E T T I N G U P S H O P I N E N G L A N D . C E N T U R I E S L A T E R T H E F A M O U S U K S C I S S O R M A K E R W I L K I N S O N ’ S R E T U R N E D T H E F AV O U R B Y S E T T I N G U P G E R M A N M A N U FA C T U R I N G I N T H E R E G I O N .

D . G . L . S C I S S O R S - E A R LY 2 0 T H C E N T U R Y G E R M A N M A K E R U N K N O W N F O R G E D I N S O L I N G E N

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D E S T ROY I N G CO N V E N T I O N WA S T H E W O R K W E A R T R A D I T I O N

D E N I M I N N O VAT I O N S DENIM INTEGRITY Working out of a shop in Reno, Jacob Davis custom-made work-pants and other handsewn items for men who were too big to wear the available ready-mades being wagonned out from San Francisco. Although he had no way of knowing it at the time, Jacob made clothing history one day in his primitive workshop, when the idea came to him to use the same rivets for work pants that he had been using for making horse blankets. All credit for the images above go to Michael Allen Harris for his comprehensive and informative archive of modern Jean history.

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JEANS OF THE OLD WEST: A History Michael Allen Harris

WORK WEAR TR ADITION IS DEFINED BY INVENTION

5 S I G N AT U R E D E TA I L S “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” “In 1850 some crazy fuckin’ dude decided to make pants out of tents and then he decided that he would hammer nails into the pockets to make them stronger. Think about it? – It was a radical crazy idea. Nobody thinks like this today. Our design team is using this influence and rethinking the way we do things. We ask a lot of questions to ourselves before we start designing. We always start the concept with original vintage pieces but we reinvent and find our own interpretation and solutions”.

7- P O I N T P O C K E T A S H A P E I N S P I R E D BY T H E HAND OF THE WORKER

Interview with jason denham for highsnobiety - oct. 2010

Ring & Eye Buttons; Double-Riveted Backside Taped Buttons; Cable Connection Closure; Flip Zip Closure; Dart Point Compression

CLASSIFICATION 2.2 REG’D NUMBER 000629209-0001 FILE NO. # 648543EM

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D E N H A M G A R D E N | T H I S D E N H A M TA P E R H A S B E E N H A N G I N G I N T H E G A R D E N E V E R Y D AY F O R 5 Y E A R S

LO N G L E T I T FA D E

5 POCKET JEANS I T ’ S A B O U T M A K I N G M O U T H - W A T E R I N G M U S T H AV E E X C I T I N G J E A N S What 5 pocket jeans means to Jason . . . . . . ““2 legs and 5 pockets”, The iconic garment of my and many other generations. There is something special about 5 pocket jeans that fits perfectly into every day life. In my opinion the 5 pocket jean is the most perfect pant ever created. It’s the most versatile and enduring pant in both wearability (physical stress) and timeless acceptability (fashionably correct.) Your 5 pocket jeans are your best friend today and always will be.

It all started circa. 1850 when 2 legs and 5 pockets were created. It’s amazing to see how such an iconic model has evolved over centuries and decades of trends. Jeans survive everything, 50’s rebels without a cause, 60’s flower power, 70’s hippy love, 80’s yuppies, 90’s Madchester Rave on, 00’s Grunge, etc.. every century has a jeans story to tell and today its gone full circle with heritage at the foreground of jeans culture. Thank you Mr Strauss for giving us the blue print to dress generations of jeans lovers.” jason denham for WAD MAGAZINE - DEC. 2012

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WE COMBINE A DEEP RESPECT FOR WORKWEAR HISTORY....

....TOGETHER WITH A FEARLESS INTENTION TO MOVE JEAN DESIGN FORWARD

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7- P O I N T P O C K E T Created for the natural spread of the hand

RINGBACK KEY-POCKET BUTTON

BUTTON ASSEMBLY

LEATHER RIVET SADDLES

SEMI-CINCH WALLET STRAP

SELVEDGE KEY POCKET

HAND SEWN HIP-POCKET BUTTON

JAPANESE SELVEDGE DENIM

7-POINT POCKET

TAILORED DART SHAPE KNEE ARTICULATION

TAILORED DART CUFF SHAPING

W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N . D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N DESIGN MANTRA THE COMBINATION OF A DEEP RESPECT FOR WORK WEAR HISTORY, TOGETHER WITH A FEARLESS INTENTION TO MOVE THINGS FORWARD. The process of making begins with looking. A humbling sense that we can never look “too closely” at any of the hundreds and hundreds of vintage specimens within the Denham Garment Library inspires us to explore every detail on the best and most iconic denim, casual and utility garment examples. We’re striving to recreate this clothing’s timeless wearability, add to its rich style-culture and contribute to its tradition of hard-won incremental innovation... a process that has sometimes taken centuries to evolve. We’re working to create something uncompromisingly new, but also determined to root it in the strongest possible foundation. WORSHIP TRADITION : TRADITION TEACHES QUALITY. The habit of looking closely reminds us that it takes generations to establish a great tradition and achieving quality is never simple. Quality is the source of the fibers before they are spun into yarn. It is about weaving specifications, construction techniques, dyeing and laundering processes. It is about hardware, closures, labelling and finishes. It is about the front side, the backside, the inside, the right side and the other side. It ‘s not simple, It’s complicated. But ultimately for us it’s become addictive.

DESTROY CONVENTION : CONVENTION PREVENTS PROGRESS. Contrary to popular belief, traditions are not honored by blind mindless repetition. Traditions are advanced through challenging convention in a constant search for improvement. Our ambition is to add to tradition through trial-and-error, through innovation and invention. A closer look around the studio confirms that we are willing to try things others might even regard as a little bit crazy. The sweetest fruit is sometimes hanging furthest out on a limb and we are resolved not to let fear get in the way. Holding our garments to a higher standard of invention also accounts for our fearlessness when it comes to sharing our personal archive. Where competitors might horde away their research material, we are happy to regularly publish key artifacts from the Denham Garment Library online for the world to see in hopes of spreading the same passion for quality, utility and detail in anyone willing to join us in “looking close”. This unconventional generosity is also a testament to our commitment to move things forward and never be content merely reproduce the work of others, even if those others’ names have sometimes been safely lost to history.

BLUE SAL AD BAR | CUSTOMER MADE ‘PICK YOUR OWN’ DENHAM

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PHILIP JINTES

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A P X P R E S S LT D . | O N E C O N V E R S A T I O N W I T H C H R I S ( W E H A D I T O V E R 1 0 Y E A R S A G O ! ) A N D Y O U I M M E D I A T E LY R E C O G N I S E H I S PA S S I O N & E N T H U S I A S M F O R PA C K A G I N G D E S I G N . L A B E L S , T R I M S , M E TA L S . . . C H R I S H A S A T I R E L E S S E N E R G Y F O R R & D , A L W AY S O N T H E LO O K O U T F O R N E W I D E A S A N D D E V E LO P M E N T S . C H R I S B R I N G S TO T H E L A B E L L I N G I N D US T RY A V E RV E & C R E AT I V E FL A I R T H AT

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H A S H E L P E D E N A B L E U S T O R E A L I S E O U R D E S I G N S . T H A N K Y O U A P X P R E S S F O R PA C K A G I N G 5 Y E A R S I N T H E M A K I N G .

A P H O T O S E N T B Y A D E N H A M C U S T O M E R W H O P R O U D LY K E E P S A L L H I S L A B E L S & PA C K A G I N G

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“ J E A N S L I K E T H E S K I N A N D T H E U P G R A D E R R E C O G N I Z E D E N I M H E R I TA G E , R I G H T D O W N T O T H E L E V E L O F C R A F T S M A N S H I P N O T O F T E N S E E N N O W A D AY S , B U T A L S O I N F U S E M O D E R N E L E M E N T S I N T O A N O T H E R W I S E C L A S S I C D E N I M D E S I G N ” .

S E AT

THIGH

KNEE

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HEM

BUZZ JEANS - AUG. 2012

F I T G U I D E S T R AT I F I C AT I O N | D E N H A M S TO R E A M S T E R DA M

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TURA NAWORN L AL

FOR THE

PTION

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WORSHIP TRADITION - UPGRADE | CLASSIC 5-POCKET DENHAM JEAN

D E S T R O Y C O N V E N T I O N - S K I N | D E N H A M S I G N AT U R E J E A N

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PA S S I O N O F O W N E R S H I P. L I K E T H E S C E N E I N ‘ Q U A D R O P H E N I A’ ( H u m p h r i e s / R o d d a m / S t e l l m a n ) W H E N T H E P E T E T O W N S H E N D C H A R A C T E R J U S T W A S H E D H I S J E A N S I N T H E B AT H . A G R E AT M O M E N T I N C I N E M A A N D A C O O L R E M I N D E R O F T H E B O Y I S H P R I D E W E ’ R E A L L O W E D T O TA K E I N M A I N TA I N I N G S T U F F I N T H E R I G H T W AY.

L I F E B E G I N S AT 3 0 °

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TAKE CARE: WE RECOMMEND 6 MONTHS WEAR BEFORE YOUR FIRST WASH. Washing your jeans the right way absolutely brings them to life, magnifies character and personalizes the fit. Here’s our advice. It’s easy: 1. Cold water. 2. Invert your jeans and slide them in. 3. Hand wash using a bar of cathartic soap. Made with natural pure enzymes. Enjoy the process, work the fabric, swish ‘em around, exercise a little finesse. 4. Dump the soapy/dirty wash-water and reload with another helping of cold cold water as a rinse. 5. Rinse the same way you washed. 6. Handwork the jeans as they’re submersed. 7. Pull ‘em out, wring them out, turn them back the right-side-out and hang them vertically to dry. 8. But before you walk away and let science, nature and evaporation do their thing, take one more pass at handworking the damp jeans into shape. Work through the seams and creases, shape the legs and get ‘em expressing the attitude you like. 9. Then walk away and let nature take its course.

M A N U FA C T U R E D B Y T H E H I S T O R I C A L LY FA M O U S W H I T E O A K P L A N T ™ W H I C H H A S B E E N C O N T I N U O U S LY P R O D U C I N G D E N I M S I N C E 1 9 0 5 . I N S P I R E D B Y T H E V I N TA G E S T Y L I N G A N D O R I G I N A L C O N S T R U C T I O N S O F T H E E A R LY T O M I D 1 9 0 0 ’ S A N D D E V E L O P E D F O R T H E P R E M I U M M A R K E T, D E N I M A F I Ç I O N A D O S A N D V I N TA G E C O L L E C T O R S . P R O D U C E D W I T H N E W YA R N A N D F I B E R T E C H N O L O G I E S , D Y E T E C H N I Q U E S A N D D E N I M F I N I S H E S O N O R I G I N A L V I N TA G E S H U T T L E L O O M S .

C O N E D E N I M w w w. c o n e d e n i m . c o m

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AUTHENTIC AMERIC AN TE X TILES W H I T E O A K S E LV E D G E This garment is made of CONE DENIM manufactured by the WHITE OAK PLANT – Greensborough NC, USA. This 1 2 o z A m e r i c a n c o t t o n fabric is woven on authentic 31” fly shuttle looms. Inconsistencies in character and texture are inherent to fabrics woven on these vintage looms. Original selvedge denim with white listing.

MADE

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WHITE OAK CONE DENIM

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“ D U T C H B R A N D D E N H A M , W I T H A N E X T E N S I V E L I N E O F H A N D C O N S T R U C T E D D E N I M J E A N S I N D I V I D U A L LY H A N D S E W N B Y A R T I S A N S , I S A P L A C E W H E R E D E N I M F I N I S H I N G I S C O N S I D E R E D A N A R T.”

S A S S B R O W N | D O W N T O E A R T H - S E P T. 2 0 1 1

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100% HAND SEWN JEAN 3,875 STITCHES IN ONE JEAN

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A 30th birthday tribute for MONO magazine Japan.

“ D E N H A M 1 S T E D I T I O N – T H E D E S T R U C T I O N O F C O N V E N T I O N C O N T I N U E S .”

T H E D E N I M G U Y - S E P T. 2 0 1 1

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11 STITCHES PER INCH C R O S S B A C K O TA K U The new 1st Edition CROSSBACK style is a carrot fit, 5 pocket jean with double cinch ‘cross back’ construction, inspired by traditional dungarees “bib-and-braces” cross back strap design. The fly is a single piece construction inspired by tailored work wear: pre denim circa 1840. Featuring OTAKU details including cord-piping inserts in belt loops and pocket facings. The jeans are constructed making use of a traditional jeans construction, made on the original American Union special machines, stitching a refined 13 stitches per inch. The term ”OTAKU” was popularized in the West by William Gibson’s 1996 novel Idoru, which makes several references to otaku spirit. “The otaku, the passionate obsessive, the information age’s embodiment of the connoisseur, more concerned with the accumulation of data than of objects, seems a natural crossover figure in today’s interface of British and Japanese cultures....We are all curators, in the post-modern world, whether we want to be or not” W I L L I A M G I B S O N

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“ I F Y O U FA N C Y A M O R E ‘ S T R A I G H T F R O M T H E G R O U N D ’ I N D I G O E X P E R I E N C E T H E N L O O K N O F U R T H E R .”

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J A PA N E S E B L U E S E E D N AT U R A L I N D I G O B LU E

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Almost all of the worlds’ indigo is produced synthetically by chemical companies. They do a good job and there’s nothing wrong with synthesized indigo. But there’s something very special about working with indigo that is actually grown in soil, and it’s even more rare to be able to use natural indigo from Japan. The Blue Seed. Besides taking advantage of a rare natural source of indigo, the dying sequence we’ve used also excludes the stripping-bath which is usually done as part of the preparation for chemical indigo coloring. Without that stripping process, the blue color soaks in more slowly and produces a more luminous blue tone. Inspired by the project, a few of us have taken to growing potted indigo plants in the windows of our studios. To share the fun we’re also including a cool little packet of indigo seeds with every Virgin Blue Seed jean we make.

L E N A DY S TA N T | S E L E C T I S M - O C T. 2 0 1 2

“ H A N D - D I P P E D I N P U R E N AT U R A L I N D I G O O N I A N ’ S FA R M A N D L I N E - D R I E D U N D E R T H E B L U E D O M E O F A N E N G L I S H S K Y, T H E R E S U LT I N G F I R S T E D I T I O N J E A N I S B L U E R T H A N B L U E A N D A S B R I T I S H A S M R . D E N H A M O R M R . H O W A R D .”

ST YLESIGHT - MARCH 2011

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HAND DIPPED INDIGO BEFORE INDIGO C AME WOAD Woad is a natural indigo bearing herb that has been grown in Europe since the Stone Ages. Prized for its natural indigo dye, woad has a long association with the Ancient Britons, notably Boudicca and other warriors who used woad to colour their faces before going into battle. Woad was typically traded in the form of Woad Balls. King of the Woad: Woad Inc is a Norfolk based farm (in the heart of Boudicca country as it happens) dedicated to the sustainable production of Woad and the re-introduction of natural dye pigments to the modern world. At Woad Inc, only natural indigo dye is produced. No industrial processing is used in extracting natural indigo from the woad and no environmentally hostile waste is created. We got together with Woad Inc. of Norfolk to piece-dye our GRADE jean in a limited run of 75 hand-finished jeans. Each pair has been hand-dyed one-by-one in pure natural indigo and then line-dried on the Woad Inc. farm in Norfolk.

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“ . . .W OA D H A S B E E N A RO U N D F O R S O M E C E N T U R I E S A N D S P E C I A L I Z E S I N G RO W I N G A N D H A RV E S T I N G T H E W OA D P L A N T TO M A K E T H E I R D Y E . [ N O R W I C H , E N G L A N D ] I S S U P P O S E D LY T H E L A S T R E M A I N I N G FA R M I N E N G L A N D T O D O S O . D E N H A M L O O K S T O H E L P P U S H T H E I R C A U S E W I T H N O T O N LY A D E N I M R E L E A S E A S W E L L A S A PA I R O F S C A R V E S M A D E F R O M W O A D D Y E B U T A L S O A D I Y K I T T H AT A L L O W S T H E U S E R T O “ D Y E ” T H E I R O W N S H I R T S .”

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K I N G O F T H E WOA D WOAD INDIGO DIY KIT Virtually the only natural blue dyestuff throughout history has been indigo. Woad was it’s only source in Europe before c.1600, and it’s only use was to dye cloth blue. The decline of the woad trade came with arrival of indigo from India in the 16th century. INDIGO FROM WOAD The woad is grown, milled into a paste, then made into 3” balls by hand. These are laid out to dry in the sun for about 4 weeks until they become hard like wood. The dried woad balls are then broken into a powder to be ready for dying. The ball is sprinkled with water and allowed to ferment. Hot water is poured onto the dry woad ball in a vat where the water goes black with the indigo from the woad. Indigo however, is not soluble in water. Bran is added, together with yeast or beer and lime. After fermentation the indigo is reduced to it’s soluble form. Wet cloth is lowered into the vat. As the cloth is lifted out, it slowly turns blue as the air oxidises the soluble indigo. 歴史上、自然の青色原料は、インディゴだけなのです。１６００年頃ヨーロッパでは、ホソバタイセイだけが唯一の青色の原料で、布を青く染める時だけに使用されていました。１６世紀、インドからインディゴを仕入れるようになり、ホソバタイセイ貿易は衰退しました。

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ホソバタイセイからインディゴ：実ったホソバタイセイをペースト状にし、人の手により３つの球状にします。これらを、４週間程木のように固くなるまで日干しにします。乾かされた球は、崩し粉末にします。粉末されたホソバタイセイに水を含ませ、発酵させます。桶入ったホソバタイセイに熱湯をかけると、ホソバタイセイからのインディゴで黒くなります。ですが、インディゴは水には溶けないので、ぬか、イーストまたはビール、ライムが加えられます。発酵した後、インディゴは溶けやすい状態になります。濡れた布を桶に入れます。布が引き上げられると、空気がインディゴを酸化させる事によって、ゆっくりと布が青く染まり始めます。

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V I R G I N G R I V E C S E LV E D G E ( l ) T O N AT U R A L W O R N 2 Y E A R S ( r ) B Y S A N D E R ( T H E B E S T L U N C H I N A M S T E R D A M = F O O D W A R E ) T H I S C H E F I S P O S S I B LY T H E B E S T D R E S S E D M A N I N A M S T E R D A M . B U T H I G H J E A N B E C O M E S H Y G I E N E - Y O U W O N T F I N D A N Y E X C E S S F O O D R U B B E D O N H I S TA S T Y D E N I M S .

G R A D E S L I M | V G S - V I R G I N G R I V E C S E LV E D G E 3 4 ” / 3 2 ”

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PA P E R S I L K S E LV E D G E ( l ) T O N AT U R A L W O R N 2 Y E A R ( r ) B Y S J O E R D ( P R O D U C T I O N M A N A G E R T R A I N E D I N K R AV M A G A . D O N ’ T M E S S W I T H D E N H A M D E L I V E R I E S ) N E V E R W A S H E D . T H E S E D E N I M S H AV E B E E N H E AV I LY A G E D B U I L D I N G H O U S E S , B A C H E L O R PA R T I E S A N D T R AV E L L I N G T H E FA C T O R I E S O F T H E W O R L D .

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5 1 1 D AY S N AT U R A L W E A R W I T H O U T W A S H . K I N D LY D O N AT E D B Y J E F F R E Y D U P O N T F R O M T H E R O D E W I N K E L , U T R E C H T.

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“A R T D I R E C T O R , A L I K I R B Y H A D A S K E D 2 0 F R I E N D S T O S H A R E T H E I R W E A R S – T H E R E S U LT W A S A B E A U T I F U L A 3 C O M P I L AT I O N O F M O N O C H R O M E I M A G E S D I S P L AY I N G A N A M A Z I N G S E L E C T I O N O F W E L L W O R N D E N I M A N D A U T H E N T I C FA D E S . T H E B L A C K A N D W H I T E S H O T S E L E VAT E T H E C H A R A C T E R O F E A C H J E A N , H I G H L I G H T I N G T H E H E AV Y C O N T R A S T S A N D S U B T L E C O L O U R G R A D I E N T S ,” ST YLESIGHT - JUNE 2012

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THE VIRGIN SUICIDES R E L I N I N G | R E PA I R I N G | R E M O D E L L I N G ‘ O W N E R S M A N U A L’

T H E N O T I O N O F A G R E A T J O U R N E Y I S U S U A L LY C E N T R A L W I T H I N T H E M Y T H O L O G Y O F G R E A T C U LT U R E S . D E N I M - C U LT U R E I S N O D I F F E R E N T. F O R D E N H A M I T I S T H E H E R O I C J O U R N E Y F R O M V I R G I N T O V I N TA G E . WE ASKED 20 FRIENDS TO SHARE THEIR WEARS.

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B O B R I J N D E R S ( T H E B U T C H E R O F B L U E , PA R T T I M E FA R M E R & K I N G O F H O O G L A N D ) . T H E S E C U T T E R S A R E W O R N - I N T O P E R F E C T I O N B Y T H E S E AT I N H I S R A N G E R O V E R . W A S H E D 3 T I M E S O N H I S FA R M .

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W A LT E R ( B U T C H E R O F B L U E P R O D I G Y ) . B O B TA U G H T H I M E V E R Y T H I N G H E K N O W S . H E D E F I N I T E LY K N O W S H O W T O TA K E C A R E O F H I S J E A N S . N E V E R WA S H E D . W O R N I N L I K E A T RU E B U TC H E R .

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C U R LY - 5 0 % P I R AT E - ( G U E S T A R T I S T # 5 ) M A N C U N I A N S U P E R D A D W I T H S T R A I G H T H A I R ? P O S S I B LY T H E B E S T B A C K P O C K E T W A L L E T W A S H I N H I S T O R Y. C U R LY S S E C R E T R E C I P E - D O N ’ T G E T Y O U R W A L L E T O U T F O R A R O U N D O F D R I N K S ? S O R R Y C U R LY - N E X T R O U N D IS ON YOU!

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R O G E R G R I V E C - 5 0 % J E A N S PA L E I S - A N AT U R A L B O R N D E N I M A D D I C T “ D E N I M ‘ T I L I D I E ” . T R U S T U S , H E H A S K I L L E D A F E W D E N I M S I N H I S T I M E . R O G E R I S C O - O W N E R O F T H E R E S P E C T E D J E A N S PA L E I S S T O R E I N K E R K R A D E . T O G E T H E R W I T H H I S B R O T H E R M A R C E L , T H E Y A R E T H E 1 S T D E N H A M S E W I N G A C A D E M Y G R A D U AT E S .

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A L I K I R BY - G R A D E S W O R N F O R 2 Y E A R S W I T H O U T WA S H I N G . B US T E D R I G H T K N E E P H OTO G R A P H I N G J E A N S . W O R N TO CO U N T L E S S G I G S . A B O U T TO S WA P T H E C I G A R E T T E WA S H F O R B A BY B U R P WA S H (A G A I N ) .

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M A LV I N W I X - T H E M A N B E H I N D P R E C I N T 5 - M O D E L , D J A N D D A D . M A LV I N W I X I S A D E N I M G O D . M A LV I N H A S C O N T R I B U T E D S O M E O F T H E F I N E S T D E N I M S P E C I M E N S T O T H E D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y, W E L O V E Y O U W I X .

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S K I N - D O U B L E B L A C K . N AT U R A L W O R N 3 Y E A R S

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YEARS IN WRITING

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LEGENDS 10 SIMPLE QUESTIONS I N T R O D U C I N G T H E D E N H A M L E G E N D S : We are very proud to include some of the great names from our industry inside this book. We are honored that our legends have very generously shared their answers to 10 very simple questions. Our legends have been selected for very different reasons. For us they are simply the greatest brand builders, collectors, creators and leaders all with one common thread - they are the living legends of the denim industry. We have fondly knighted our legends with the appropriate titles to sum them up. THE ARTIST - Adriano Goldschmied T H E S C I E N T I S T - F r a n Ă§o i s G i r b a u d T H E G O D FAT H E R - R e n z o R o s s o T H E B A S TA R D - N i g e l c a b o u r n

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T H E C U R AT O R - K a r l- H e i n z M Ăź l l e r

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED

ADRIANO GOLDSCHMIED In jason denham’S words..

“[HIS] FINESSE FOR WOMEN’S WEAR IS SECOND TO NONE”

SIMPLE QUESTIONS

What is the first thing you do in the morning when you wake up? after shower, one espresso and work my mails from europe

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？シャワーを浴びて、エスプレッソを一杯飲みます。ヨーロッパからの仕事のメールに取りかかります。

Your favourite city in the world? london

世界中で一番好きな都市は？ロンドン

Tell us something we don’ t know about you? i didn’t have any interest at all for fashion and clothing in general and i’ve never worn any of my jeans

私たちが知らない意外な一面はありますか？私は普段ファッションと洋服に全く興味がありません。さらに私は自分のデニムを一度も着たことがありません。

Favourite Artist / Album of all time? london calling - the clash

今までで最高のアーティスト / アルバムは何ですか？ London Calling (The Clash)

Your greatest achievement? being able to create generations of denim aficionados

最も優れた功績は？熱狂的なデニムファンの人々を生み出すことができることです。

Who is your denim Legend? norma baker jeane

あなたに取ってのデニムレジェンドとは誰ですか？ N o r m a B a k e r J e a n e（ノーマ・ジーン・ベイカー氏）。

You love.. ..what i don’t know and what i have to discover

You love.. 自分が知らないことと、何か見いださなければならないことです。

You hate.. ..to do what i already did

You hate.. もう既に自分でしたことを、することです。

If you were not in denim you would be in? leather, it is the only material that has a life like denim

もしもデニム業界にいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？レザー業界です。レザーの素材のみがデニムと同じように人生があります。

Your best denim moment is? to check the samples that i put into work the day before あなたに取ってのデニムの最高の瞬間は？仕事をする前日にサンプルをチェックすることです。

Adriano Goldschmied in his laundry

For me Adriano is the GOAT, “the greatest of all time”. His Genius Troupe photo sits above my desk and inspires me everyday. It was Adriano’s vision and collective spirit that pulled together some of the greatest minds in the denim business. It was this vision that spawned some of the greatest and most intriguing Jeans labels from DIESEL and REPLAY to BO-BO KAMINSKY. (BO-BO incidentally is one of his favourites….) Adriano is a guy who never stands still and is always ahead of the trends. Adriano is always looking forward, he is searching for the next big thing and he generally finds it. He has finesse for women’s wear, which is second to none, and a sensibility and touch for fit and fabric that is testament to his years of experience. Above all Adriano is an Artist; he paints the full picture, creating trends by living in his own private laundry and cooking up next season’s best recipes. I feel very lucky that I have got to know Adriano and had the pleasure to spend some days with him in his L.A. laundry. This Denham legend is one-of-a-kind; I doubt there will ever another one like him. His style is unique and his energy is still insatiable.

私にとってアドリアーノはGOAT “the greatest of all time いつも最高の人物”です。彼のGenius Troupeはいつも私の卓上に座り、毎日私にインスピレーションを与えてくれます。それは、アドリアーノのビジョンと共にデニムビジネスで素晴らしい思考を一緒に引き出すというスピリットです。このビジョンはDIESEL、REPLAY、BO-BO KAMINSKYから発生した最も優れており、また最も魅力的なデニムレーベルです。（因に、BO-BOは彼のお気に入りの一つです。）アドリアーノは決して立ち止まることなく、いつもトレンドの最先端にいます。アドリアーノはいつも前を向いて彼の次なる大きなものをリサーチすることを楽しみにしていて、そしてほとんどの場合彼は探し出します。彼はレディースの巧みさを持ち合わせ、それは誰も勝ることはできません。履き心地、素材には彼が何年も経験してきた証と感性がつまっています。上記で述べたようにアドリアーノはアーティストです。：彼は絵も描きます。トレンドを生み出し、彼独自の洗い場に住み、来シーズンに向け最高のレシピを作り出します。私はアドリアーノと出会えてとてもラッキーです。いつの日かアドリアーノと一緒に彼の L.A.のランドリー工場で過ごすことを楽しみにしています。このデニムゴットファーザーは他で例を見ることのない人物です。：私は彼の様な人物は他にはいないと思っています。彼のスタイルはユニークで、その上みなぎるエナジーは今もなお、とどまるところを知りません。

Jason Denham & Adriano Goldschmied in Jason’s studio

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THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

FR ANÇOIS GIRBAUD

FRANÇOIS GIRBAUD In jason denham’s words..

“franÇois broke all the rules”

SIMPLE QUESTIONS

To my knowledge François broke all the rules and changed the denim game forever. Two legs and 5 pockets will never be the same thanks to François. He was brave enough to do things differently some other designers tried it but nobody executed like him. François is the premier who destroyed convention and said ‘fuck you or ‘va te faire foutre’ to tradition. This guy invented stone wash; legend has it that he threw some dry jeans in a cement mixer and a bunch of stones. How crazy is that? Seriously how many designers think like this today? The simple answer is ….not many. Like his fellow legends, François has never faded his thirst for reinvention and he can also be credited for pioneering Laser washing WATT WASH which is fast becoming the ‘stonewash’ of the future.

What is the first thing you do in the morning when you wake up? i turn on my blackberry where i see the picture of the 5 of us. ADRIANO and nigel were not there but they WERE in my heart

I was lucky to be invited on a guest panel of denim speakers by Sportswear International together with Karl-Heinz, Scott Morrison, Adriano Goldschmied and François Girbaud. Honestly it became the Adriano and François show and the rest of us watched and laughed and learned as Adriano and François stole the show and put the denim world to rights. François is a guy who has my ultimate respect; he is the No.1 denim scientist.

Your favourite city in the world? berlin - barcelona - beirut - bosphore - big apple - beijing - bagdad. and now bangalore. in the last four months. it is not only one city; i’m a nomad, far away from home

世界中で一番好きな都市は？ベルリン、バルセロナ、ベイルート、ビッグアップル（NY）北京、バグダットです。そして今はバンガロール（インド）です。過去4ヶ月に訪れた所です。一つの都市はなく：私は遊牧民のように放浪するので、自宅から遠く離れた場所が好きです。

Tell us something we don’ t know about you? do you think i can make real jeans one day?

私たちが知らない意外な一面はありますか？私がいつか真のデニムを作れると思いますか？

Favourite Artist / Album of all time? long chris – ‘chansons bizarres pour gens etranges‘ the first records with the benny goodman sextet in august 1939 with charlie christian, who plays electric guitar like nobody else, inventing a solo like that of the sax or trumpet with the same volume and fluidity

今までで最高のアーティスト / アルバムは何ですか？ Long Chris – ‘Chansons bizarres pour gens etrAnges ‘最初のレコードは1939年8月にBenny Goodman Sextet（ベニー・グットマン音楽団体）とCharlie Christian（チャーリー・クリスチャン氏）です。誰も彼のようにエレクトリックギターを演奏することはできません。

私の認識では、フランソワは全てのルールを覆し、永遠のデニムゲームに変更してしまいます。2本脚と5ポケットを全く変えてしまう、フランソワに感謝しています。彼は他のデザイナーが試みたことは異なり、誰も成し得なかったことを成し遂げるために十分に勇敢でした。フランソワは最初の習慣を壊した人物であり、伝統に対して彼自身の言葉で“Fuck you “や “va te faire foutre”と言います。この人物はストーンウォッシュを発明しました。：このレジェンドは彼がセメントのミキサーの中に大量の石を入れ、乾いたデニムを入れたものです。どんなにクレイジーだと思いませんか？真面目に言って、一体どれだけのデザイナーが今日このようなことを考えつくでしょうか？シンプルな答えは…、そんなに多くの人はいないということです。ゴッドファーザーたちの様に、フランソワの発明に対する情熱は決して色あせることなく、レーザーウォッシングのパイオニアとして功績を残しています。将来、WATT WASH（ワットウォッシュ）は”ストーンウォッシュ”のような存在になり、急速な進化を遂げるでしょう。私はデニムスピーカーのパブリック会議にKarl Heinz（カール・ハインツ氏）、Scott Morrison,（スコット・モリソン氏）、Adriano G o l d s c h m i e d（アドリアーノ・ゴールドシュミッド氏）、F r a n ç o i s Girbaud（フランソワ・ジルボー氏）と共に招待された幸運に恵まれました。正直に言って、アドリアーノとフランソワが見せてくれたショーや、デニム業界を正してくれたことを、残りの私たちが見て、笑い、そこから学んでいます。

François Girbaud & Adriano Goldschmied on the DENHAM stand, B&B, Berlin

“ i f yo u d o n’ t w a n n a s m e l l my s m o ke , d o n’ t m o n ke y with my gun ***************** gonna get some monkey glands be like i use to was gonna run these mamas down like a dominicker rooster does yieeeppee ya!”

Your greatest achievement? to have come up with theses and antitheses, stonewash to wattwasH

最も優れた功績は？ストーンウォッシュから‘wattwash’（ワットウォッシュ / レーザーによる”こすり加工”の表現）。

Who is your denim Legend? dutch leonard who believed in blue eternal (be)

あなたに取ってのデニムレジェンドとは誰ですか？ BLUE ETERNAL (be)を信じているDutch Leonard（ダッチ・レオナード氏）です。

You love.. loving you!!!! passionate people

You love.. あなたを愛してます！！！情熱的な人。

You hate.. politically correct. liars and politicians

You hate.. “道徳的に正しいこと”

If you were not in denim you would be in?

もしもデニム業界にいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？ウエスタンドリーム…。“ローン・レンジャー”か“ゼロ”です。

the western dream...the lone ranger or zorro Your best denim moment is?

when “i saw the light...” no more darkness

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朝目覚めて最初にすることは？ブラックベリーの電源を入れ、私たち5人のいくつかの写真を見ます。アドリアーノとナイジェルはここにはいませんが、私の心の中にはいつもいます。

あなたに取ってのデニムの最高の瞬間は？ “光が見えた時…。”これ以上の暗闇はこない。

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

RENZO ROSSO

SIMPLE QUESTIONS

What is the first thing you do in the morning when you wake up? i train and do physical exercise. i start at 6am with my personal trainer

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？トレーニングとフィジカルエクササイズ。朝6時からパーソナルトレイナーと始めます。

Your favourite city in the world? tokyo and london

世界中で一番好きな都市は？東京とロンドンです。

Tell us something we don’ t know about you? i like to provoke people to push them to take out the best and the most creative part of them!

私たちが知らない意外な一面はありますか？人々に彼らの最高のものを引き出させるように促し、より向上できるようにクリエイトすることです。

Favourite Artist / Album of all time? basquiat and the dark side of the moon by pink floyd

今までで最高のアーティスト / アルバムは何ですか？ Basquiat（バスキア）とPink Floyd（ピンク・フロイド）のThe Dark Side of the Moonです。

Your greatest achievement? my 6 children Who is your denim Legend? levi’s

最も優れた功績は？私の6人の子どもたちです。あなたに取ってのデニムレジェンドとは誰ですか？ LEVI’S

You love.. beauty, in all its expressions. nature, a person, i love aesthetics in general

You love.. 美しさ、自然、人、そして全ての美学がとても好きです。

You hate.. clientelism and corruption

You hate.. 汚職、ブラックメール。

If you were not in denim you would be in? any other position, but always at the helm of a team of people. i am a real team person

もしもデニム業界にいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？ …何か他のポジションだと思います。ただいつもチームの人々の舵を取っていると思います。私自身がチームを大切にするので。

Your best denim moment is? from the real beginning i always set out to create the best denim collection. and from the very beginning i believe the following one is even better

あなたに取ってのデニムの最高の瞬間は？本当の最初の始まりから私はいつも最高のデニムコレクションをクリエイトし手掛けています。そもそも当初から私はコレクションの度にさらに良くなっていると確信しています。

RENZO ROSSO In jason denham’S words..

“THE GREATEST BRAND BUILDER OF ALL TIME” Renzo Rosso is the greatest brand builder of my time. He is the modern day Levis Strauss who took it to the next level like nobody else. When I was a kid I had no idea who Renzo Rosso was but boy I loved Diesel. Diesel did & still does it all – Jeans to die for and a full collection where you wanted EVERYTHING. This is rare today but Diesel was the first to create this ‘mouth watering’,’gotta have it’ appeal. Diesel have the magic of creating a fresh modern approach to Jeans wear, not a cowboy or Indian in sight….only a message built around successful living that I aspired to and was desperate to be a part of. Renzo always does things differently with a modern twist that has inspired my own brand building ambitions. I first met Renzo in NYC in 2002 (he won’t remember this) I was shopping in the infamous DIESEL Lexington Ave. store and I was flicking my way through the racks of beautiful product when I literally bumped into the legend that is ‘Renzo Rosso’. In typical British fashion I apologized profusely and stared in awe at the great man, watching him scribbling notes in his notebook whilst studying his product with ferocious intensity. Luckily I got a second chance to make an impression on Renzo… although this time was also a little unnerving. I was sitting eating breakfast in the Cerulean Tower Hotel in Tokyo when a firm hand tapped me on the shoulder and an Italian accent announced “you are Jason Denham …yes …my father would like to speak with you”, for a split second I thought I was about to be whacked by the mafia until I realized who was in front of me. We had a great conversation and one thing that struck me was the intensity of how he listened to my words. Maybe this is his secret, he knows how to look and listen, maybe this is how he became the master of the denim market? 私にとってレンツォ・ロッソ氏とは…、最もブランディング能力の優れている人物です。彼は今日、Levis Strauss（リーバイス・ストラス氏）の様に次の次元に到達した唯一の人です。私が幼かった頃、私自身レンツォ・ロッソ氏とは誰のことか分かりませんでしたが、少年だった私はDieselが大好きでした。Dieselが成し遂げ、そして現在に至る全ての染められたデニムと全てのコレクションを貴方は全て欲しくなってしまうでしょう。Dieselは現在では珍しい、”のどから手が出るほど欲しい”、”手に入れよう”と思わせた最初のブランドです。Dieselはカウボーイでも、ため息の出る様なインディアンでもないデニムウェアーに鮮度あるモダンアプローチの魔法を造り出しました。 Successful livingというメッセージを作り、広めたのです。その一部に加わりたいと私が熱望し必死になっていたものです。レンツォはいつも思いもしない発想を生み出します。そこから私は自身のブランディングの志としてインスピレーションを授かっています。

2002年NYで私は初めてレンツォに出会いました。（彼は覚えていないようですが）私が有名なDIESEL Lexington Ave. store（レキシントン・アベニュー店）でショッピングをしていると、美しい商品が陳列されているラックが視界に入り、まさに私は偶然レジェンド” Renzo Rosso（レンツォ・ロッソ氏）”と出会ったのです。通常の英国人の様に、偉大な人に私は何度も謝罪を述べる共に、畏怖の念を抱いて見つめていました。彼のノートにあるメモの走り書きを見て、彼の製品を猛烈に勉強しました。そして幸運にも、私はレンツォに2度目の印象的感銘を得る機会を授かりました。… にも関わらず、今回も少しびっくりする様なことはありましたが。私は東京のCerulean Tower Hotel（セルリアンタワーホテル）で朝食を取っていた時に、肩をたたかれ、イタリア人特有のイタリアン英語で “あなたはジェイソン・デンハム氏ですね…。私の父が貴方とお話することを望んでいます。”と言われました。ほんの一瞬の間、目の前に立っている人物が誰かを認識するまで、私はマフィアに殺されると思いました。私たちは最高の会話をし、また一つ、感銘を受けたのが、彼がいかに真剣に、強く、私の言葉に耳を傾けていたかです。きっとこれは彼の秘密でしょうが、彼はどのように見て、耳を傾けるべきかを知っています。多分これが、彼がデニム市場でマスターになった秘訣ではないでしょうか？

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The Genius Troupe - 1982

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

NIGEL CABOURN

NIGEL CABOURN In jason denham’s words..

“..NO CONCESSIONS, THE BEST OF THE BEST” I have been in the denim business for 20 years and in my short career the one fashion story that is as timeless as denim is the military trend. Nobody loves and does this better than Nigel Cabourn. He is the inspiration, he is on every designer’s mood board and he is the industry standard. Nigel understands uniform, military & workwear, better than anyone. This is his trend, (he owns it) he reinvents it and he executes it beyond expectation and he does this time and time again, season after season. This is the man who will never miss a PV (Premiere Vision, Paris) and who’s knowledge and passion of textiles is outstanding. It’s almost as good as his knowledge of Scunthorpe United Football club but I won’t bore you with that.. Nigel and I first got to know each other around seven years ago when we started working together on a collaboration between Blue Blood & Nigel Cabourn. Sadly this project never made it to the stores, it was a shame for Blue Blood but it was one of the biggest highlights of my career – I got to know and work with Nigel Cabourn and we have been great friends ever since. I never met any designer like Nigel in my life; he is the most selfish designer I ever worked with, no concessions, the best of the best. Nigel is unique in many ways and his spirit, passion, energy and love of this industry is off the scale. Nigel will be the first to admit that his obsession with vintage is verging on clinically insane and he should probably be locked up for it. (Thankfully he hasn’t) Nigel is the most generous man in the industry and he will happily share his incredible archive with people and appreciative magazines. I was lucky enough to visit the famous Windmill in Newcastle, UK where Nigel used to house his collection. We spent hours walking around the building where Nigel would continuously use his famous phrase “LOOK AT THIS BASTARD”; Nigel has turned blue language into an appreciative clothing vocabulary. Nigel is a FUCKING, BASTARD, GENIUS, … His words not mine and I love him for it. Nigel is a true legend of the industry. 私は20年間デニム業界で働いており私の短いキャリアの中、たった一つのファッションスートリーは時代を超越したミリタリートレンドのデニムです。ナイジェル・ケーボーン氏ほど愛して、優れている人物は他に誰一人としていません。彼はインスピレーションであり、彼の製品は全てのデザイナーのムードボード上にあり、彼は業界のスタンダードです。ナイジェルはユニフォーム、ミリタリー、ワークウェアーを誰よりも理解しています。彼のトレンド（彼はそれを所有しています）として、季節が巡る度、幾度となく作り直す行程を繰り返し、予想を遥かに超えて達成します。彼はPV (premiere Vision, Paris) を逃すことは決してなく、その上、テキスタイルにおいて彼は卓越した知識と情熱を持ち合わせています。彼の知識は、ほぼScunthorpe United Football club（スカンソープ・ユナイテッド・フットボールクラブ）と同じぐらいですが、私はこのことで貴方をうんざりさせるつもりはありません…。ナイジェルと私は約7年前に、一緒にBlue Blood & Nigel Cabournのコラボレーションをする仕事で知り合いました。残念ながら、このプロジェクトはお店に並ぶことはありませんでしたが。これは Blue Bloodの恥ずべきことであり、しかしながら私のキャリアの中で最も強調すべき大きな出来事でした。その後ずっと、ナイルジェル・ケーボーン氏と私たちは一緒に仕事をし、それ以来素晴らしい友人関係を築いています。私はナイジェルの様なデザイナーに人生で出会ったことがありません。今まで仕事をしてきた中でもっともわがままで、譲歩がなく、一流中の一流のデザイナーです。

SIMPLE QUESTIONS

What is the first thing you do in the morning when you wake up? at present it is table tennis usually from 6.30am

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？今のところ普段は、朝 6 : 3 0 から卓球をします。

Your favourite city in the world? my favorite city ’ is very hard to answer, as there are quite a few. however, i would start with melbourne and tokyo

世界中で一番好きな都市は？かなりの都市があるので、 “ 私の好きな都市 ” の質問に答えるのはとても難しいです。ですが、メルボルンと東京というところから始めたいと思います。

Tell us something we don’ t know about you? one thing you don’t know about me is when i was 17 or 18 years of age my first job whilst at university was working as a postman and a window cleaner

私たちが知らない意外な一面はありますか？一つ、私について貴方が知らないことで、私が 1 7 、1 8 歳の時に大学で少しの間だけした最初の仕事は郵便配達員と窓の掃除です。

Favourite Artist / Album of all time? again, my favorite artist is very difficult to answer, as there are a few. however, as a young person i liked the bucketeers and the mg’s Your greatest achievement? my greatest achievement is starting my own business straight from university and keeping it going for 40 years Who is your denim Legend? to be really honest i don’t have a denim legend, as denim is something that i like a lot but it is not such a driving force for me as it would be for you. i have to say if i think deeply about it and because of my association with karl heinz and yourself i very much like and respect pierre and adriano. they are great You love.. finding vintage clothes, which are very rare and precious You hate.. people who talk about vintage after it has only been a few years old If you were not in denim you would be in? as you know I am not into denim, it ’s just part of my collection, it ’s only a small part of my collection and not my expertise like you guys Your best denim moment is? this would be starting denim recently with nigel cabourn authentic. to be honest i am a novice at it!

今までで最高のアーティスト / アルバムは何ですか？またですね。かなりのアーティストがいるので、私の好きなアーティストを答えるにはとても難しいです。ですが、若い頃は t h e B u c k e t e e r sと t h e M G s が好きでした。最も優れた功績は？私の偉大なる功績は、自身のビジネスを大学生から始め、4 0 年間続けてきたことです。あなたに取ってのデニムレジェンドとは誰ですか？心から正直に言って、私にはデニムレジェンドはいません。デニムはとても好きですが、貴方の様に原動力になるようなものではありません。私はカール・ハインツ氏や貴方自身との繋がりを、より考慮して言うべきです。私はピアーとアドリアーノがとても好きで尊敬していますし、彼らは素晴らしい人物です。 You love.. ヴィンテージの服を見つけることです。それはとてもまれであり、尊いものです。 You hate.. たった数年しか経っていないものに対し、人々がヴィンテージについて語ること。もしもデニム業界にいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？貴方がご存知の通り、私はデニム業界にいるのではなく、デニムは私のコレクションの一部です。それは、私のコレクションの中でとても小さく、また私は貴方がたのようにデニムのエキスパートではありません。あなたに取ってのデニムの最高の瞬間は？ N i g e l C a b o u r n A u t h e n t i c で最近デニムを始めたことでしょう。正直に言って、私はデニム初心者です！

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ナイジェルは色々な面でユニークであり、ファッション業界への魂、情熱、エネルギー、愛情、は計り知れません。ナイジェルは真っ先に、彼がヴィンテージに取り憑かれていて、臨床的にインセインに等しいと認めるでしょう。そして彼は多分、監禁されるべきでしょう。（ありがたいことに彼は監禁されていません。）ナイジェルは業界で最も寛大な男であり、喜んで彼の驚くべきアーカイブを人々や価値ある媒体に共有してくれます。私はUKのニューカッスルにある有名な風車がある所に、ナイジェルのコレクションがあった家を訪れる幸運に恵まれました。私たちは何時間も建物の周りをナイジェルの途切れることのない有名なフレーズ”LOOK AT THIS BASTARD”と共に、歩きました。ナイジェルは価値ある服のボキャブラリーを悪い言葉の言い回しに変えます。ナイジェルはFUCKING, BASTARD, GENIUSです…。彼の言葉は私のではなく、私は彼を愛しているからこその言葉です。ナイジェルは業界の真のゴッドファーザーです。 Jason Denham, Pierre Morisset, Nigel Cabourn & Liam Maher in Jason’s studio

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

KARL HEINZ MÜLLER

SIMPLE QUESTIONS

What is the first thing you do in the morning when you wake up? i put my jeans on

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？デニムを履きます。

Your favourite city in the world? berlin

世界中で一番好きな都市は？ Berlin

Tell us something we don’ t know about you? i create buildings, castles, my new house with lego bricks

私たちが知らない意外な一面はありますか？私は L E G O で建物や、城、私の新しい家を作ります。

Favourite Artist / Album of all time? david bowie - heroes

今までで最高のアーティスト / アルバムは何ですか？ David Bowieはヒーローです。

Your greatest achievement? 14oz. and bread & butter

最も優れた功績は？ 1 4 o z .とBREAD & BUTTERです。

Who is your denim Legend? levi strauss

あなたに取ってのデニムレジェンドとは誰ですか？ Levi Strauss

You love.. originals

You love.. オリジナル。

You hate.. bad taste and copy cats

You hate.. テイストが悪いものとコピーキャット（マネ）。

If you were not in denim you would be in? architecture or delicacies

もしもデニム業界にいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？建築家か、何かしら美しくエレガントなものです。

Your best denim moment is? our notorious denim designer lunch at bread & butter

あなたに取ってのデニムの最高の瞬間は？ B B B での有名な私たちデニムデザイナーのランチです。

Karl-Heinz Müller, Elio Fiorucci, François Girbaud, Renzo Rosso and Jason Denham at the Denim DesignerLunch, Bread and Butter, Berlin

KARL-HEINZ MÜ LLER In jason denham’S words..

“...[HIS] PASSION... IS INSATIABLE AND FEARLESS” His BREAD & BUTTER: “If you don’t have any enemies you won’t have any friends”… Karl-Heinz Müller or simply Karl, as he is often addressed, is a Legend in his own right. Karl’s passion for this industry is both insatiable and fearless. Nobody supports this industry like he does. To even consider challenging the institution that was ‘Inter jeans’ seemed suicidal. Not for Karl, he did it with Bread & Butter and he never looked back, only forward. Bread & Butter has breathed new life in to the denim industry and has never stood still or got complacent. Karl understands the jeans industry better than most as he has a long career working for great brands like Levis and Pepe, so its understandable that he instinctively knows what a trade show should be. “ もし貴方に誰も敵がいなければ、貴方に友達はできません。” … 。K a r l H e i n z M u l l e r（カール・ハインツ・ミュラー氏）または、シンプルにカールは、彼自身のレジェンドとしてしばし取り上げられます。このファッション業界のために、カールは飽くことのない情熱とリスクを恐れない両方を持ち合わせています。誰もこの業界で彼のようにサポートはしません。’ I n t e r j e a n s ’ の協会の試みさえ自滅的のように見えました。カールだからこそ、彼は B r e a d & B u t t e r を開催し、決して後ろを振り返ることなく、前だけを見つめています。B r e a d & B u t t e r はデニム業界に新たな息吹を吹き込み、その上決して留まることなく、甘んじることはありません。カールはデニム業界を大抵の人よりも理解しており、リーバイスやペペジーンズ等の偉大なるブランドで働いていた長いキャリアから、本能的にトレードショーがどうあるべきかを知り、理解できるのです。 His 14oz: I remember visiting the first 14oz in Cologne which was already a unique retail experience. Fast forward 10+ years and the new 14oz experience on the Kudamm is breathtaking. KarlHeinz is an addict for detail and perfection. The library which was uplifted from Vienna is a very special detail. Karl-Heinz is a talented curator of brands, it is his job... he does it every day. Both with B&B and 14oz. And he does this exceptionally well.

Karl-Heinz Müller and Jason Denham during the opening celebration of the second 14 oz. store at Haus Cumberland on Kurfürstendamm in Berlin

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PHILIP JINTES

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

JASON DENHAM

“..OBSESSIVE RESPECT FOR JEANSCRAFT TRADITION” Englishman Jason Denham cut his cloth in the workshop of Joe Casley-Hayford, a highly respected English designer renowned for combining sartorialism and anarchy. After 8 years working within the denim industry, he set up his own denim consultancy Clinic+ in Amsterdam, before founding the respected premium jeans brand Blue Blood.

What is the first thing you do in the morning when you wake up? i drink tea with fresh milk, like a true english gentleman

At the beginning of 2008, after extensive travel around Europe, US and Japan, Jason was left with the feeling that the world of denim was starting to lose some of its rightful excitement. It was this feeling that led to the formation of the DENHAM label in 2008.

Your favourite city in the world? tokyo inspires me, london reminds me of home, amsterdam is my home, ibiza is my hideaway

“The DENHAM label is focused on balancing an intense commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition.”

Tell us something we don’ t know about you? i can only design on a saturday with loud music playing and i have to take my shoes and watch off before i start

Jason Denham’s single-minded obsession with denim combined with his diligent attention to detail, is the primary inspiration for the brand. A philosophy that makes up DENHAM’s signature. Manifesting his “jeanmaker” ethic of honest craftsmanship multiplied by fearless experimentation and invention not only in every jean he creates, but in every garment in the line and every other aspect of the label. “Our customer is not going to settle for less than jaw dropping, mouth watering, gotta have pieces. The only way we know how to make them is to create our own unique balance of deep authenticity, inventive contemporary detailing and a distinctly modern attitude.” Amassed over 15 years, the label’s unique DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY manifests his conviction that deep knowledge comes with extensive research, which is central to the studio’s design approach. The DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY features an extensive collection of archetypal jean models as well as workwear, military clothing and travel gear from the last century up until to day. “By referencing the archive we know the work of our predecessors, both from the recent and distant past. We take inspiration from anyone and anyplace who have produced relevant ideas but we are never content just to reproduce an existing idea. The research feeds our passion and our passion is to move forward” Rooting the design process in genuine research ensures each new design manifests the most potent intrinsic characteristics of jeanscraft and the utility tailoring tradition. The design process itself is motivated by a commitment to rigorously modernizing iconic garment styles as well as a focus on individual details. This process is ingrained within the DENHAM mantra “Worship tradition. Destroy convention”. The aim is to develop relevant contemporary designs with a distinct personality that stand on their own while also representing a modest step forward for jeanscraft and the discipline of utility tailoring itself. DENHAM design stands for denim integrity.

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SIMPLE QUESTIONS

Jason with Shadow

Favourite Artist / Album of all time? DAVID bowie - ziggy stardust Your greatest achievement? the contents of this book Who is your denim Legend? the 5 denham legends already mentioned in this book, however adriano stands out for sharing his creative spirit with me. he is an inspiration You love.. mrs denham, norton & shadow (my labradors), having dinner with my mates, positive energy, japan (everything about it), getting out of bed at 6am everyday and building this brand, being inspired by my team & making shit happen You hate.. liars, cheats, lazy, low energy, time wasters. crunchie chocolate bars & salmon If you were not in denim you would be in? a wooden box – six feet underground Your best denim moment is? opening the boxes and dressing the hq showrooms every time we launch the new season. putting the finishing touches on the lo.c.k. stand at bread & butter the night before the show starts & the denim designers lunch is always a very special moment

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？真の英国紳士の様に、紅茶にフレッシュミルクを入れて飲みます。世界中で一番好きな都市は？東京は私にインスピレーションを与えてくれます。ロンドンは私にふるさとを思い出させてくれます。アムステルダムは私のホームです。イビサは私の隠れ家です。私たちが知らない意外な一面はありますか？私は土曜日にしかデザインできません。さらにデザインを始める前に大音量の音楽をかけ、靴を脱いで時計を外してからでないと始められません。今までで最高のアーティスト / アルバムは何ですか？ Bowie / Ziggy stardust 最も優れた功績は？この本に詰まっている全てです。あなたに取ってのデニムレジェンドとは誰ですか？ 5人のデンハムレジェンドは既にこの本で述べています。しかしながら、アドリアーノは彼のずば抜けたクリエイティブスピリットを共有してくれました。彼はインスピレーションそのものです。 You love.. デンハム夫人、Norton & Shadow（私のラブラドールたちです）、友人との食事、ポジティブエナジー、日本（全てにおいてです）、毎朝6時に起床しこのブランドを構築すること、私のチームからインスピレーションを受けて、実現させることです。 You hate.. 嘘つき、裏切り、怠惰、低エネルギー、時間の無駄、クランチチョコレートバー、サーモン。もしもデニム業界にいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？木製の箱 – 6フィート地下。あなたに取ってのデニムの最高の瞬間は？毎回、新しいシーズンを立ち上げる際に本社のshowroomでサンプルのボックスを開け、試着することです。L.O.C.K社のBread & Butter会場のスタンドでショーの前夜に最終チェックをすることと、デニムデザイナーランチはとても特別なひと時です。

I N T E RV I E W W I T H JA S O N D E N H A M L.O.C.K . | JAN. 2010 text by Helmut Wolf Jason, where did you spend your childhood? I was born in the North of England and grew up in a small place called Norton village. Nothing EVER happens in Norton Village so I got out as soon as possible. I first moved to Manchester during the height of the Manchester music scene and then to London for my first job. Today I am based in Amsterdam. I have been here for more than a decade. When did you first notice your passion for clothes, and jeans in particular? After I finished secondary school I decided to go to ART school where I studied fine art, painting, graphics, textiles etc. My parents pushed me in to graphics, (this was a respectable career) I will never forget my father sitting me down for a serious talk and telling me ‘you will never make a living by designing skirts all day long’. My Father is a retired fireman – he is the masculine all action hero. I switched to fashion and denim was always my first passion. I never looked back. Where does the basic fascination of the material denim lie for you? There is no other material like it. I studied textiles at university. I fell in love with denim when I fully understood the process and history of the fabric. My biggest passion is the versatility of indigo combined with cotton. Denim Jeans will live forever because every pair has its own personality. In a certain way, jeans manage to adapt to each one of its owners and their characteristics. They have the gift of eliminating any social differences - whether one is rich, or poor. In fact, jeans are the most democratic product of the fashion industr y, aren’ t they? Jeans indeed have the gift of eliminating any social differences. Jeans are worn by convicts, rebels, bikers, ravers, shakers, makers, star chasers, toe gazers, idols, idles, militants, heroes and most importantly the real guy on the street. As jeans are an organic product, they change and get better the more you wear them. They mould themselves to our body shapes and are an expression of our personality and lifestyles. There is no other product category like it. True craftsmanship stands in contrast to the fast-changing world of cheap goods. Do you think that smaller, individual shops and manufacturers will see a revival due to today’s turbulent times? ABSOLUTELY YES, I don’t believe in cheapening the quality and cheapening the price as a solution for this economic period. I believe that the consumer’s mindset has changed and cheap, throw away disposable fashion is being replaced by quality goods from quality brands. In Denham we believe in honest pricing and innovative high quality products. In each of your products, one can truly feel all the passion and dedication. Do you think that this “noticeable” passion can be carried over to the consumer, and have an effect on them? Our Motto is “The truth is in the details” This passion and dedication is put into all of our products. Our collection has a point of difference for 2 reasons: (1) We understand the history – we collect a lot of vintage garments and our garment library is more than 1,000 pcs of inspiration, history and integrity. (2) We love reinvention, our brand concept is very modern. We worship tradition and we destroy convention. Consumers are becoming more and more educated about garments all the time, they know what they are looking for.

“We have a passion for modern design and combine this with vintage history. It’s a balance in worshipping tradition, while destroying convention.” Do you think of a certain type of person when creating a product? Yes he / she is the type of person that gets excited about originality, quality & modernity – Our product is ageless, its for the mindset. In times of crisis, can jeans possibly represent something like “perpetual security”? Crisis or no crisis Jeans will always represent some kind of security. That’s up to the individual. What are your thoughts on the following quote: “Without the old, there wouldn’ t be anything new.” I believe that quality needs time to evolve, whereby the old can inspire the new. Before you can design a jean, you have to understand the history. In our DENHAM studio we have an archive of more than 1000 vintage pieces. We have a passion for modern design and combine this with vintage history. It’s a balance in worshipping tradition, while destroying convention. Is timelessness the new avant-garde? Yes and No, Timeless is good – but breaking convention and reinventing techniques, details and silhouettes gets me very excited. What does the term “authenticity” mean to you? GENUINE – ORIGINAL – QUALITY. What drives you every day? I love what I do. It’s a cliché but I never worked a day in my life. What I do every day is my hobby, my passion. I am an early bird. I often wake up at 5am and come to the studio. These quiet hours when I can do my own thing are my most inspired moments. Every collection is a step forward and this drives me everyday.

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W WD DENIM FORUM

THE TRANSFORMERS

L O S A N G E L E S | O C T. 2 0 1 1

W W D ’ S D E N I M F O R U M D I S P L AY E D N E W T H I N K I N G F R O M V E T E R A N S A N D N E W C O M E R S A L I K E

text by Rachel Brown

Ron Herman; Francois Girbaud; Adriano Goldschmied; Paul Marciano; Jeff Rudes; Andrew Olah; Maurizio Donadi; Stefano Rosso; Giovanni Petrin; Christophe Lolron; Susan Kaufman; and Jason Denham.

Denham the Jeanmaker doesn’t yet wholesale in the U.S. but the buzz about the brand is so strong that merchants from the San Francisco store Revolver and the Miami store Lulu flew to its Amsterdam headquarters and packed their suitcases full of its jeans to bring back to their customers. If that behaviour seems obsessive, it aligns well with that of the brand’s founder, Jason Denham. Aware that many in the audience at last week’s WWD DENIM summit had no idea who he was, he filled them in on the pertinent details: “I’m British. I’m 41 years old. I’m living in Holland, in Amsterdam. I’ve been living there for 15 years, and i’ve got a little thing about denim.” After starting denim consultancy Clinic+ and the premium denim label Blue Blood, that “little thing” has turned into an effort to build an authentic, unique denim brand called Denham the Jeanmaker based on the design mantra “The truth is in the details” and a mission conveyed by the slogan, “Worship tradition. Destroy convention.” “We love history,” Denham said about the first part of the slogan. Of the second, he said, “it’s truly important that you get to do your own thing.” To develop Denham the jeanmaker, which is threeand-a-half years old, denham thought carefully about what makes a genuine denim brand worthy of consumer interest and money. First, he said, a brand needs a great name. His last name was an easy choice. “I was meant to be in this industry,” he said, referring to his family name. Second, the brand needs a great logo. Denham the jeanmaker’s logo comes from scissors Denham has owned for two decades and that he used on jeans designs for clients as diverse as Bono and LVMH, Moët Hennessy, Louis Vuitton. A brand also needs a home.

“It was always a dream of mine to put everything under one roof,”

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said Jason. He has opened what he describes as “houses” in creative districts of Amsterdam, Tokyo and London that incorporate several elements of the jeans business. From retailing to design to public relations in multi-story buildings. “When you come, you really get the full experience of the brand,” he said. Paris is probably the next city that will get a Denham house, and Antwerp and Berlin are on Denham’s wish list for future locations. All components of the brand communicate the Denham the Jeanmaker message. At the trade shows Pitti Uomo and Bread & Butter, Denham said, “we don’t just give people free drinks. What we do is we concentrate purely on product and presentation.” The brand also releases books every season to inform wholesale customers of its story. A bigger “Mother of Book” covers the brand’s complete history. “We love that the buyers in these times today love to come on that journey with us and see what the whole product is about,” said Denham. At stores, Denham the Jeanmaker pieces hang on scissors bolted to the walls. Denham avoids piling up the entrance with products — he despises the “sell, sell, sell” vibe those mountains of products foster — and, instead, has television screens that show customers how Denham the Jeanmaker products are made. At the back, there’s glass that customers can peer through to see designers doing their jobs. “It’s good to be transparent and show what it is all about,” said Denham. Aspiring to make the highest quality merchandise is critical to Denham the Jeanmaker’s DNA. Denham pointed out that he works with wool from fox brothers & co., Denim fabric from japan and zippers from talon international. At the location in Amsterdam, there are five sewing machines on-site to customize jeans. The brand also has its own factory, although it is producing small runs of 20,000 pieces a season. “Product is our big investment. We don’t do advertising campaigns,” said denham. Denham — who admitted to lying his way into an appointment with one of his idols, Paul Smith, to get advice when he was just starting out — isn’t anxious to blanket the retail universe. He’s chosen to place Denham the Jeanmaker at key speciality and department stores in select cities, including Colette in Paris, 14oz in Berlin, and Selfridges in London. And he’s going slowly in the U.S. As he seeks the right American partner to launch the brand properly, even as his collection was pursued at the forum by another American retail fan, Ted Greve of Loop Jean Co. In Tucson. “We deliberately held back from the U.S. because we know how difficult this market is,” said Denham. “Now, we are ready.”

N O T E S S C R I P T | L . A . P R E S E N TA T I O N W W D

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D AV I D G E N S L E R

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

LIAM MAHER

LIAM MAHER In jason denham’s words..

“...THE PERFECT CATALYST FOR A MODERNIST BRAND” Getting together with Liam Maher was a click that I have never experienced with a designer before. Liam is very cagey (as he warned me in his interview) and quite unique. Liam is blessed with being part US and part British (he decides daily which he prefers to be) and he revels in European experience after living in Amsterdam for more than 10 years. Liam is a rural tailor and a serious scissor fetish obsessive, just like myself. The marriage was perfect and our shared passion of ‘worship tradition’ (vintage) combined with ‘destroy convention’ (reinvention) creative attitude is the perfect catalyst for this modernist DENHAM brand. Liam Maher（リアム・マーダー氏）と共に働き出したのは、私は今まで彼の様なデザイナーと出会ったことがなく、私の中で何かピンとくるものがありました。リアムはとても用心深く（実際に彼は私にインタビューの時に念を押されました）それでいてとてもユニークな人物です。リアムはアメリカと英国の恩恵を授かり（彼の毎日の気分によってどちらかの国を選んでいます。）、さらにアムステルダムに移住して10 年以上を経て経験したヨーロッパを満喫しています。リアムはローカルテイラーであり私自身同様、真のハサミマニアです。私とリアムのコンビネーションは完璧で、私たちはモダニズムであるデンハム”伝統を重んじ”（ヴィンテージ）”しきたりを壊す”（リイノベーション）はワークウェアーの歴史に対しての深甚なる畏敬の念と、それらをクリエイティブし完璧に進化していくというデンハムの思いを共有しました。

What is your role a DENHAM? As Design Director I generally focus on the overall thematic direction of the seasonal Denham collections as well as designing the collection menswear – and I’ll confess a particular obsession with outerwear What’s the first thing you do in the day? I take a digital photograph of my Dachshound and my wife in the bed. Every pose he strikes while sleeping is fantastic. She always looks good. I try to e-mail it to her around midday Favourite album Way too much competition for that superlative, but Ian Brown’s Music of the Spheres would be doing battle with Scott Walker’s Tilt while the Best of the Bee Gees and Matisyahu’s Light looked on from the sidelines. Favourite movie Claude Beri’s diptych of films; Jeane de Florette & Manon of the Spring Favourite city I wouldn’t mind visiting the pastiche city of Bladerunner, but these days my wife and I find ourselves regularly jonesing for Oxford, UK You love... Digging through piles of clothes – conjuring the image of the people who wore them and the times they lived in You hate... Try never to indulge it. I don’t love built-in obsolescence though. What defines you? The “romantic tradition” balanced against “modernism” and the reflection of very big ideas against very small ones What are your biggest influences? My late father, a veteran of the British Navy and D-Day; my uncle who drew the X-Men comics for several years; my great grandfather who was a rural tailor in Ireland If you weren’ t a designer. You would be? I’ll flatter myself and say filmmaker but I’d probably be a jabbering vagrant

Liam Maher during build of the London store

チーフ・デザイナーのリアム・マーダー。クラフツマンシップに敬意を表し、彼が愛用のペンダントもハサミである。

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World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

デンハムで、なにをされていますか？ D e s i g n D i r e c t o rとして、私はデンハムのコレクション全体のテーマに沿ってディレクションを行うと同様にメンズコレクションのデザインも行います。トップスを特に専門としています。朝目覚めて最初にすることは？ベッドでダックスフンドと妻をデジタル写真で撮ります。ダックスフンドの寝ている間の全てのポーズが最高に決まっていて素晴らしいです。彼女はいつも素敵です。お昼前後に私はその写真を彼女にメールしようと試みています。好きなアルバムは？最上級の競争になります、ですが I a n B r o w n の音楽 S p h e r e sと S c o t t W a l k e r の T i l t 、t h e B e s t o f t h e B e e G e e sとM a t i s y a h u の L i g h t はとても近いものがあります。好きな映画は？ C l a u d e B e r i のシリーズ：J e a n e d e F l o r e t t e & M a n o n o f t h e Spring 世界で一番好きな都市は？私は空想の様な B l a d e r u n n e r を訪れることが大好きです。しかしながら最近では妻と一緒に見つけた U K の O x f o r d へ定期的に行きたくてたまらなくなります。 You love.. ヴィンテージ服の山を探り - その服を着ていた人や人生を想像する奇跡。 You hate.. 考えない様にしています。私はやっぱり資源の無駄が嫌いです。あなたの定義は何ですか？ “ r o m a n t i c t r a d i t i o n ” のバランスに ” m o d e r n i s m ” を対抗させることです。また、大きなアイディアにとても小さなことを対抗させることです。最も影響を受けたものは？亡き父は、B r i t i s h N a v yとD - D a y のベテランでした。叔父は X - M e n のコミックを数年前から描いています。曽祖父はアイルランドの田舎の仕立屋でした。もし貴方がデザイナーでなければどうなっていたと思いますか？おこがましいので普段は言わないように徹底していますが、映画監督です。デンハムで好きな製品は？次のシーズンのコレクションなので、今公開することはできません。むしろ、永遠に “ 次のコレクション ” です。

Favourite DENHAM garment I can’t reveal it at the moment because it ’s in next season’s collection. -In fact, it ’s forever in “next season’s collection”

今から1 5 年後にはどこいるでしょうか？その答えに正確には答えられそうもありません、想像では 1 5 年後もここにいると思います。

In 15 years from now where will you be? I’m as unlikely to answer that correctly as I would have been guessing I’d be here 15 years ago

アムステルダムの一番の秘密は？ここに住んで 1 2 年になりますが、誰かが私に秘密を教えてくれることを祈っています。私は大抵、秘密を知るのが一番遅いです。

Amsterdam’s best kept secret After 12 years living here, I’m wishing somebody would just come out and tell me that one. I’m usually last to know

デンハムでの最高の瞬間は？それから、私は T r a d e のイベントの儚さが嫌いです。B e r l i n で開催された B & B では、完全なチームと共に働き、完成させた（朝の 3 : 0 0 A M までかかった）私たちの史上初の T r a d e e x h i b i t i o n はかなり素晴らしいものでした。

Best DENHAM moment Although I don’t love the impermanence of trade events, the time the entire team worked together to complete our first ever trade exhibition at B&B in Berlin (at 3am in the morning) felt pretty great Favourite DENHAM detail I’m probably a little too proud of the Cable Connection closure

デンハムの好きなディテールは？私は C a b l e C o n n e c t i o n をとても誇りに思っています。

I N T E RV I E W W I T H L I A M M A H E R DESIGN.NL | J U N E 2 0 0 9 text by Gabrielle Kennedy WHEN AN INTELLECTUAL PICKS FASHION AS HIS TARGET. Next week during the Arnhem Mode Biennale, Reshaping Attitudes will hit the stage. A symposium where fashion types discuss the ideas and morality underpinning what they do. Liam Maher, head of design, at Amsterdam’s newest and most interesting denim brand, Denham, will participate. It’s good news for the Dutch fashion industry that jeans genius Jason Denham has tapped cult fashion philosopher Liam Maher to join the merry band at his new venture, Denham. The outfit focuses on putting an old-fashioned, craft-oriented ethos back into the heart of fashion with an emphasis on utility, quality, values and narrative.

find a balance between craftsmanship and industrial production. The potential of managing an effective and contemporary balance of these represents a sort of holy grail. He pulls open a drawer of knick-knacks like a match box printed with the Young Meagher dogma, but only legible under a magnifying glass, and a thick envelope containing a hand-written letter by the lead singer of Aerosmith. “They are fans,” he says. Another fan, as it turns out, was Jason Denham who is also based in Amsterdam. When the two first met this year, Denham had already laid the groundwork for Denham, his fledgling new jeans label. “When I first saw his Spring 09 collection, I felt we had a real simpatico,” Maher says. “Denham is truly about utility tailoring, tradition, function and rugged handwriting, and even though I didn’t come from a jeans culture, I think Jason saw me as someone who shared much of the same tastes and excitements.”

Maher’s idea of fusing ideals (which could almost be described as political) with fashion can be traced back to the influence of his recently deceased father, who was once the head of psychology at Harvard university. After working for big department stores a well as companies like Timberland, Oilily, Burton Snowboards and Japanese label visvim, he decided it was time to create more simpatico between his values and his work.

Along with women’s designer Barbera van Rest and art director Ali Kirby, the Denham team, which Maher is now head designer for, wants to keep things special and quality-focused so as to avoid the designer jean cliché. “I think we are all pretty wary of the shallower elements in the fashion system and built in obsolescence,” Maher says. “I hope I can help the team figure out how to create a subtly new proposition. Like Jason himself is always saying, it’s about balance.”

“My father was English and like a lot of returning WW2 veterans I think his horizons broadened after the war when it seemed you could begin to reach further on your own merit,” Maher says. “He deeply distrusted the class system … I think he thought it was corrupt and fundamentally wrong. Most of my childhood took place in the US and I remember he would council me to be cautious of inherited rights and to take advantage of the more American attitude. I guess that really stayed with me.”

Avoiding that is, according to Maher, dependent upon the sorts of values the brand chooses to uphold and work by. It’s about staying modest and not losing specificity by trying to appeal to too many different types of people. “But mostly I think it is about worshiping tradition while destroying conventions,” he says. “It’s important because tradition teaches quality, but convention prevents progress.”

Maher, however, faced a conflict. From as far back as he can remember and throughout art school, men’s tailoring, its sheer style, intricasies and beauty, had weaved its way into his heart. “The problem was that the center of men’s tailoring was along the hallowed streets of Savile Row, home to bespoke tailoring in service to the aristocracy,” he says. Firmly entrenched in the more egalitarian values of his father, Maher, in an attempt to make more sense of his quandary, traced his way back to his paternal great-grandfather. “He was a rural tailor in Ireland,” says Maher. “But then I started to think that that wasn’t really possible. Wasn’t it a contradiction? So I typed ‘rural tailor’ into Google and came up with a most beautiful picture of a man sitting cross-legged on a table sewing.” It turns out that in old England and ireland, rural tailors who made durable garments for the working classes, worked cross-legged and sitting on top of tables so they could access better light without electricity. Apparently sitting “Indian style” used to be called “sitting tailorwise.” “I really like the vibe of those kinds of clothes,” says Maher. “Railway workers, post office employees, and manual labourers … it was about tailoring utility, not aristocracy. It was about function and durability … something a bit more noble and genuine than the pure flattery of Savile Row’s focus.”

The picture of the cross-legged tailor stuck in Maher’s mind. “It was such a beautiful image and I wanted to know what happened to him and the other rural tailors,” he says. “Why doesn’t anyone talk about them or what they accomplished?”

At Premsela’s Reshaping Attitudes symposium this Saturday in Arnhem, Maher will talk about how the current economic climate is the ideal time for people to realize that everything they thought they believed in is in fact not true. “Especially for a designer, I think a lot of attitudes have proven just not to work, and they have to be really challenged on that,” he says. Maher says he is particularly bored by the image of the enfant terrible designer who thinks nothing from the past matters. “They make all these youthful pronouncements about destroying the old to make way for the new,” he says with palpable disdain. “Of course a healthy disrespect is always good, but we need to know and understand what came before and why it worked.

“Fashion has a rich tradition and it would be so gratifying if in some small way I could be part of the group that pushes and pulls and tugs on the weight of that tradition. I want to participate in that process, take a risk, be reverent and pay homage to the greatness that came before me.”

The obvious answer projected Maher into his Eureka moment. “If nobody was talking about them, it was because their existence was unimportant in the world of over-production,” he says. “The more I thought about it, the more I understood that of course the introduction of uncontrolled over-production put them all out of business. It put the whole rural way of life out of business, which made way for factories and suburban sprawl.” This lead Maher to think about Frederick Winslow Taylor and his work in scientific management and industrial efficiency. “I like the irony in the idea that the tailors might have been against the Taylorists,” he says. So just imagine if the tailors formed a sort of brotherhood against the havoc the aristocracy and industrial mass-production were creating in their lives. Imagine if they united to protest and protect their craft. Maher looks excited. “Imagine if that union grew into a kind of guild like the masons,” he suggests. It’s a suggestion that might be less fanciful than it sounds because a little bit of Internet research (type “rural tailor” into Google, for example) reveals that such a guild did, or at least may have existed. It’s called the Militant Guild of Rural Tailors and Maher may or may not be involved in the unearthing and sharing of the guild member’s dogma, and documents. The guild was a celebration of craftsmanship, a thinly disguised criticism of the values underpinning mass production and built-in obsolescence. “The rural tailors were the opposite of Savile Row,” Maher says. “There it is about flattering people’s vanity by designing clothes that make the aristocracy look broader or taller or thinner. Whereas rural tailors were about producing clothes that lasted, that protected workers from the elements, and which were utilitarian.” Inspired by The Militant Guild of Rural Tailors, Maher launched a project called Young Meagher (a purposeful twist on his own name), a clothing line based on the very same principles that his brethren rural tailors lived to uphold. “The guild created a dogma that filtered through all their work,” he says. “I built a non-commercial concept label around that very same dogma.” Maher moves across the floor to his antique set of gymnastics parallel bars and starts pulling off garments – rows of jackets and shirts with exquisite hand-made detailing. He offers precise descriptions of every decision behind every seam, button and functional detail. He talks with contagious passion about why the cleft in a man’s shirt cuff should lie on the inside of the wrist, under the thumb so it can move as a man works, not, as is aristocratic tradition, above the pinkie finger. 153

Maher concedes that this project was intended primarily as a sort of provocation. In reality he also believes that it is worthwhile to try and

J A PA N by JASON DENHAM

I F***KING Love Japan, I always have, ever since the first time I visited Osaka back in 1996. In 1996 Japan was a completely alien place, hardly a STARBUCKS or MCDONALDS in sight and very few people who spoke a word of English. That’s why I fell in love with it. My first experience of Japan was Obsessive, traditional, modern, clean, polite, efficient and beautiful. This stuck with me and is kind of the principals of how we have built our brand. I like to think that DENHAM is obsessive, traditional, beautiful & modern and we always conduct our business in a polite and efficient manner. In February 2010, I was walking the streets with Stephane Muller in Daikanyama (my favourite area of TOKYO) when I spotted an empty store. This store was clean , modern and beautiful. I fell in love at first sight and on JUNE 10 (4 months later) we opened our first Japan store. This is where I met Mr AKI San, one of the best “shop keepers “ I ever met in my life. Today Mr Aki San is the CEO of DENHAM Japan Company but for me he is much more than a CEO, and at heart he is a true shop master. Aki is obsessive. . . he sleeps in the store all night to imagine how to recreate and freshen up the presentation for the next day. Aki is a warrior and his team of soldiers will fight to the death for him. TOKYO

私はとてつもなく日本を愛しています、それは1996年最初に大阪を訪れて以来ずっとです。1996年の日本はかろうじてスターバックスかマクドナルドがあり、非常に少数の人が英語を話すといった、完全に異星人の場所でした。だからこそ、私は恋に落ちたのです。私にとって初めての日本はこだわり、伝統、モダン、清潔感、洗練された礼儀、効率的、美しさでした。このこだわりは私自身と、その上どのように私たちがデンハムを築き上げてきたかの原点の一つです。デンハムとはこだわり、伝統、美しさとモダン、そしていつもビジネスの中に洗練された礼儀と効率性を導入しているという、デンハムのあり方が好きです。 2010年2月、私はステファン・ミューラーと代官山（東京の中で一番好きなエリアです）を歩いていました。そして、空っぽのお店の前で立ち止まりました。このお店は清潔感があり、モダンで尚かつ美しかったです。私は一目で恋に落ちてしまい6月10日（4ヶ月後）にデンハムは日本初のお店をオープンしました。そしてこの場所こそ、私の人生でこれまで出会った中で一番の”ショップキーパー”であるミスターアキさんと出会った場所です。今日、ミスターアキさんはデンハムジャパンCEO（代表取締役）ですが、私に取ってはCEOを遥かに超越した存在であり、そして彼は真のショップマスターなのです。アキはこだわりある人です…。彼は毎晩お店で寝泊まりし、どのようにして明日お店を作り直し、新鮮さを出すかを想像し描きます。アキは武士です、また彼のチームは、彼のために命をも惜しまず戦うソルジャー（戦士）たちです。

ⓒ恩田拓治 OCEANS 11月号 2012年より

AKI NEGISHI

What is the first thing you do in the morning? I WORK very carefully TO open MY eyes AND AT the same time I imagine what ’s gonna happen today What is the last thing you do at night? I Work EXTREMELY CAREFULLY TO close MY eyes AND AT the same time I REFLECT ON TODAY ’S EVENTS WHILST imaginING what ’s gonna happen tomorrow Why do you love being a ‘shop keeper’? The answer is always there How do you inspire your team? Samurai Spirits What is your favorite place in Tokyo? I can’t answer it, because I HAVE 47 favoUrite places

AKI NEGISHI

“...THE BEST SHOPKEEPER I EVER MET IN MY LIFE” アムステルダム同様、日本のデンハムもデニムに対するパッションに満ちている。日本発の新たなプロジェクトも進行中で、国内での展開も大きく広がっていきそうだ。

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World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

What inspires you? Great taste, sweated hard attitude, and things by planned. These 3 will converge neatly then comes upon what I should be inspire. This is inspire Whats is your favorite DENHAM garment? THE Cross Back DENIM JEAN. WITH THIS DENIM, the more I wear, the more I discover Where will you be in 15 years? The place where I wish, and I WILL make THE effort to be there. ThIS place WILL be IN the 15 YEAR anniversary book

朝起きて、最初にすることはなんですか？今日一日、起こるべきことを想定し慎重に目を開ける作業。昨晩、最後にしたことはなんですか？今日起こった出来事、明日起こるべきことを想定しとても、とても慎重に目を閉じる作業。なぜ貴方は ’ s h o p k e e p e r ’ であり続けることを愛するのですか？常に答えがそこにあるからです。貴方のチームからどのように、貴方はインスパイアされますか？ samurai spirits 東京で好きな場所はどこですか？ 4 7 カ所あるので、一番は答えられません。何からインスパイアを受けますか？センスがいいもの、汗水たらしている姿、計画だったものごとです。その３つが綺麗に重なり合った時にインスパイアされるべきものが訪れます。それがすなわちインスパイア。デンハムで好きな製品は何ですか？ Cross Back 履けば履くほどにいろいろな発見があるデニムだからです。

1 5 年後に貴方はどこにいますか？俺がいたい場所であり、そこに行くために今頑張っている場所。 1 5 年後の A n n i v e r s a r y B o o k にその場所が載っているでしょう。

What is your favorite music artist / record of all time All kindS of music. I listen to the music depending on my mood each day. No music, No life

好きな音楽アーティストと、いつも聴くレコードは？音楽全般。その日のフィーリングに合う曲を聞きます。No music, No life.

What do you love most about europe Western culture? The mentality and behavioral abilities that THE Japanese MENTALITY DOES NOT HAVE

最も貴方が好きなヨーロッパのウエスタンカルチャーはなんですか？日本人が持ち合わせていないメンテリティと行動力。

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

ALI KIRBY

What is your role at DENHAM? art director

デンハムで、なにをされていますか？ Art Director

What’s the first thing you do in the day? get my son out of bed. eat porridge. run around the vondelpark

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？息子をベッドから起こします。ポリッジを家族で食べます。Vondelparkの周りをランニングします。

Favourite album too many. not enough. right then: massive attack-blue lines. stone roses. right now: wild beasts. personally, nick drake’s five leaves left. my late uncle was nick’s cambridge college roommate and arranged the strings on a lot of his music. way to blue always floors me

好きなアルバムは？沢山ありすぎて、書ききれません。昔は：Massive AttackのBlue Lines、Stone Rosesです。現在は：Wild Beastsです。個人的に、Nick DrakeのWay to Blue。叔父はケンブリッジ大学でニックとルームメイトであり、彼の沢山の楽曲で弦楽器を演奏しています。Way to Blueはいつも私の心に響きます。

Favourite movie goodfellas. i’ve never cut garlic the same way since paulie used the razor blade. ennio morricone - the good the bad the ugly. the music score is amazing

好きな映画は？ Goodfellas。私は今まで一度も、Paulieがカミソリの刃でニンニクを切るように使用したことはありません。 Ennio Morricone のThe Good the Bad the Ugly。このミュージックは素晴らしいです。

Favourite city amsterdam. it ’s my home You love... my girlfriend. my son. the smallest things make him happy - make me smile. art & design. in all it ’s forms. I covet my original hand-forged brass knuckled scissor. Designed, and gifted to me by liam maher for my attempts to redesign the scissor through art You hate... greed. rude people What defines you? dawdling, dabbling, delaying, dilly-dallying, frittering, frivoling, idling, loafing, loitering, playing, poking, & procrastinating What are your biggest influences? my family. my friends. my music. my internet If you weren’ t a designer. you would be? i had an ambition to be an art restorer. i almost enrolled on a restoration course in amsterdam. but i needed to speak dutch. whilst studying i got a job working at pepe where i forged a brick-walled friendship with jason. by soaking up jason’s incessant dedication, energy & optimism, as well as his belief in me, i’ve been able to develop ideas and a career in graphic design Favourite DENHAM garment grade slim jeans. japan virgin selvedge. worn 3 years. they’ve witnessed more than i can remember In 15 years from now where will you be? at a gig Amsterdams best kept secret the fire bar. (CAFE DE WETERING) not many bars in amsterdam can boast a roaring fire in a cold winter. this bar suits drinkers, lovers, talkers, all committed to throwing another log on the fire Best DENHAM moment when it ’s in my hands. RECEIVING ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IN THE 2010 CREATIVE REVIEW ANNUAL, FOR THE WEBSITE DESIGN (TOGETHER WITH DRIEBIT) WAS A GREAT PERSONAL ACCOLADE Favourite DENHAM detail favoUrite garment detail:the cable connection. it ’s genius. favoUrite denham detail: we covered the famous ‘amsterdammetje’ posts that line the sidewalk outside amsterdam hq in denim sleeves. printing scissors to replace the iconic ‘xxx’ of amsterdam. we’re flattered to see paul smith has taken a photo of one, and hung it on the wall of inspiration in his amsterdam store

世界で一番好きな都市は？ Amsterdamです。私のホーム。 You love.. 私のガールフレンドと息子です。最も小さいことが彼を幸せにし、それが私を笑顔にしてくれます。 Art & design。全てのプリントデザイン。私のオリジナルハンドメイドのハサミ：鍛造真鍮ハサミです。リアム・マーダー氏がハサミのアートに対する努力と試みを忘れないようにと私のためにデザインして、プレゼントしてくれたものです。 You hate.. 強欲、失礼な人。あなたの定義は何ですか？ D awdl i n g 、手を染めて、遅延、ランラン-dallying、frittering、frivoling、アイドリング、loafing、徘徊、遊ぶこと、突く、先延ばし。最も影響を受けたものは？家族、友達、音楽、興味のあることです。もし貴方がデザイナーでなければどうなっていたと思いますか？美術修復家になりたいという野望がありました。私はアムステルダムにある修復コースに入学しようとしていました。しかし、オランダ語を話す必要があったのです。私は勉強の間に、Pepeで働くようになり、ジェイソンとの強い友情を築き上げました。ジェイソンの絶え間ないひた向きさ、熱心さ、エネルギー、楽観主義と同様に彼の信念に私は溺れてしまいました。私はグラフィックデザインによって、アイディアとキャリアを築き上げることができました。デンハムで好きな製品は？ Grade Slimデニムです。Japan Virgin Selvedge。履いて3年になります。彼らは、私自身が覚えていないこと全てを記憶しています。今から1 5 年後にはどこいるでしょうか？ GIG（ミュージックコンサート）。アムステルダムの一番の秘密は？ The fire bar（CAFE DE WETERING）寒い冬に、自慢できるような暖炉のあるどんちゃん騒ぎのできる場所はアムステルダムにはあまりありません。このバーは酒飲みや、恋人たちによく合い、薪を暖炉に、入れることができます。デンハムでの最高の瞬間は？デンハムの製品を手に取った時です。ウェブサイトのデザインは（ D R I E B IT 社と共に）栄誉である TH E 2 0 1 0 CREATIVE REVIEW ANNUALから賞を受賞しました。デンハムの好きなディテールは？好きなガーメントのディテール：Cable connectionです。天才です。好きなデンハムのディテール：A m s t erdam の本社にある、ポールにかぶせる有名な’Amsterdammetje’（デニムカバー）です。ハサミに代わる、A m s t erdam のアイコンとなる” X X X ” がプリントされています。P a u l Smith（ポール・スミス氏）がその写真を撮り、彼のAmsterdamのお店に飾られていることを嬉しく思います。

ALI KIRBY In LIAM MAHER’S words..

“DENHAM’S IN-HOUSE SAVANT” In his introduction up at the front of this book Jason mentions that he and Ail have worked together for a long time… -that they have an unique understanding of one another. For some of us though, getting to know Ali was, and continues to be, a process of day-to-day discovery. Ali’s confident low-key style and introspective nature, project the sort of old-soul wisdom which isn’t normally associated with our industry. He is a professional art director who manages to operate without the faintest trace of the type of hyperbole and selfaggrandizement for which the vocation is sometimes known. His measured style is even more surprising given the dizzyingly high creative standard to which he holds himself and the level of profound seriousness and genuine passion he brings to his work. Truth be known, he doesn’t think like a promoter-of-brands or even like a marketer – he thinks like a fine artist. He dedicates himself to sometimes excruciating degrees of subtlety and perfection, and regards all of his output as extensions not only of our brand, but of his own personality as well. Add to that a lovely sense of humour, and you start to get a sense of what it’s like to work with discernible Mr. Kirby. Denham’s in-house savant. ジェイソンがこの本の冒頭で述べたように、ジェイソンとアリは長年一緒に働いています。彼らはお互いユニークな理解をし合っています。アリを知るにつれ、毎日が発見の連続です。アリの静かに没頭するスタイルと内なる本質の知識は、一般的に私たちの業界にはいません。彼は一流のアートディレクターであり、オペレーションをマネージメントしています。業界でよく見られるように、偉そうにしたり、エゴを振り回すようなことは一切見受けられません。さらに驚くべきことに、彼の仕事に対するスタイルは彼自身の根底にある真面目さと、天才的な情熱を仕事へ注ぐという高尚なるレベルにあります。正直に言って、彼自身は自分のことをブランドプロモーターとも、ましてやマーケターとも思ってはいません。彼はいいアーティストだと思っています。彼は時として、彼自身を肉体的にも精神的にも極度に苦しむほど、繊細で完璧に仕事に打ち込みます。それは私たちブランドだけに限らず、彼のパーソナリティーそのものです。さらに、彼の愛らしいユーモアとセンスと、紳士なるMr. Kirby（カービー氏）がどのような人か一緒に働けばご理解いただけるでしょう。彼はデンハムの叡智です。 A NOTE ON THE 5 YEAR BOOKMAKING During a recent visit to Amsterdam, we had the pleasure to welcome Rin Tanaka into the Denham studio. Rin is a legend in the fashion world, renowned for his superb ‘My Freedamn’ archive books. Concluding a tour of the building, Jason climbed the 4 flights of stairs to the graphical summit & introduced Rin to the studio in the attic. What lay before them were the paper remnants of ‘5 years in the making’ strewn across the floor, the walls, the desks and counter tops. As Rin stepped over the deluge of waste he picked up the book draft with both hands and was quick to point out the difficuly of producing a book of such enormous size. “Difficult. Expensive.... Very difficult and very expensive”. The wit and wisdom imparted from the serial archivist was not lost on the team, as we began to recount the complexity of such an audacious undertaking: DENHAM. A brand built on story-telling. 5 years of story telling. Since we opened the DENHAM doors we have been recording every single detail that has happened. Every garment that has been created has been thoroughly photographed, the store designs, the trade shows, the books, the website. All designed and documented by a very small team of like-minded souls. So one can imagine the vast catalogue of imagery that resides in the DENHAM digital tower. Liam has suggested we’re probably the biggest digital hoarders out there - so realising ‘5 years in the making’ has been a challenging but ultimately rewarding ordeal. From servers to hard drives; iPhones to iPads; memory cards to USB’s; images only saved for web (doh!) to desktop stashed images & photos lodged in emails (aarrrgghhh!!!) lo-res to grainy; hi-res to professional: the search has been daunting, but 5 years of story telling has for the first time been lovingly archived into one large ‘very difficult..very expensive’ book for your enjoyment. We hope the results are worthy. Please forgive us any images that haven’t printed as crisp as we’d hoped. We felt the story should take precidence, as the story is the truth, and the truth is the detail.

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T E A M TA L K

ELLEN MA AS

What is your role at DENHAM? women’s sales manager / in-house party planner What’s the first thing you do in the day? push the snooze… more than once! then off to denham headquarters on my bike and give my daytime hubby a cuddle! (aka joep) Favourite album deb’s hen ibiza 2004 disc 3

DEBBIE DENHAM

What is your role at DENHAM? Operations Director

BEN SIBTHORPE

What’s the first thing you do in the day? Depending on which day of the week it is ….either Pilates or Aerobics with my personal trainer Favourite album SUGAR BABES 3 Favourite movie The one movIe I watched most of all in my life is ‘ GREASE ‘ - I loved it , I so wanted to be at that school! Favourite city AMSTERDAM, It ’s a city that feels like a village You Love... Sundays walking IN the forest with my husband and my dogs You hate... People who Lie What defines you? My Yorkshire honesty What are your biggest influences? Natalie Massenet She was the first to create amazing on line fashion …and Mr Denham who inspires me everyday If you weren’ t the Operations Director, you would be? A travel journalist, tropical holidays are my favorite hobby Favourite DENHAM garment My Cleaner skinny Jeans In 15 years from now where will you be? Equally as happy as I am today Amsterdam’s best kept secret Breakfast at Greenwoods Best DENHAM moment Opening our first Japan store in Tokyo (Daikanyama) was very emotional, watching Jason make A speech with a translator to a very cool Japanese audience and press Favourite DENHAM detail All of them , “ THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS”

What is your role at DENHAM? international sales What’s the first thing you do in the day? kiss the girl Favourite album The Stone Roses (first album) Favourite movie its not a movie but The Sopranos is my favourite thing to have been shown on screen Favourite city Amsterdam takes some beating You love… Life You hate… The ageing process What defines you? A blend of determination and belief What are your biggest influences? History influences everything If you weren’ t International Sales Manager, you would be? Bored Favourite DENHAM garment It ’s on it ’s way... In 15 years from now where will you be? 14.5256 Degrees North - 75.8183 Degrees West Amsterdams best kept secret I never tell secrets Best DENHAM moment Jumping the Amsterdam bridges with old friends after Season 1 line launch Favourite DENHAM detail I love all the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY pieces

Favourite movie dumb & dumber 1994…”mock, yeah, yeah bird, yeah yeah, yeah mockingbird…“ Favourite city new york city it is!!! You love… french cheese, red wine, truffle, figs & friday drinks at denham You hate… my constant battle with gravity What defines you? spirit, character & enthusiasm What are your biggest influences? i actually found it a bit difficult to answer, but i came to the conclusion that my parents have been the biggest influence in my life. they have made me the person i am right now. especially my father. he has always been supportive no matter what and took me all over the world. let ’s not forget my best girlfriends, mr. paulie, denham the jean maker and mr. a. de hond If you weren’ t the Women Sales Manager, you would be? an interior designer and travelling a lot more Favourite DENHAM garment definitely the ‘elle’ jean In 15 years from now where will you be? i will be available at the motu tehotu, bora bora, french polynesia where i am on a holiday away from denham headquarters new york city Amsterdam’s best kept secret if i tell you, i’ll have to kill you… but the tuna-pizza at restaurant le-garage is a good second

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Best DENHAM moment cutting the ribbon on the official opening of the first denham women’s store amsterdam Favourite DENHAM detail that the truth is in it

T E A M TA L K

MARIANNE FAY What is your role at DENHAM? Head of Women’s Design What’s the first thing you do in the day? If Jason is in the office, I say Good Morning, and make a cup of tea Favourite album Ceremonials, by Florence and the Machine, almost everyday in the studio we play it! We are also going through a faze of rotation between SBTRKT, Ben Howard and Jamie woon…its pretty eclectic! Favourite movie Pretty Woman (sorry!) Favourite city The Big Apple. Sorry London, you come a very close 2nd You love… SATURDAYS!!!!!! (I was born on a Saturday). English tea. Witty people, those with modest natural humor and talent. Ice cream. Black. Glitter and shiny things! Mint chocolate. Jewelry. Fashion. Good shoes

VIVIAN HOLLA

You hate... Animals dressed as humans. The color purple

JOEP POLACK

What defines you? Physically my hair (there is a lot of it!) Spiritually, my parents. Personally, determination, when you think you’ve done your best, surprise yourself and do better

What is your role at DENHAM? head of sales, home market What’s the first thing you do in the day? personal: make breakfast in bed for my family on the job: open my showroom doors to the garden, turn on the music and check my emails, double espresso with my day time wife mrs ellen maas, and my wingman mr. roy voster Favourite album angus and julia stone - memories of an old friend Favourite movie snatch Favourite city new york You love... my life You hate... bad coffee in the morning What defines you? work hard play hard. positivity is key. always keep a promise What are your biggest influences? my colleagues and the energy they put into their jobs. the team is amazing If you weren’ t Head of Sales, you would be? working in a jeans store What are your biggest influences? In business my mentors, people like Jason Denham and my Creative Director, Liam Maher. Personally, my friends and family. Creatively, music, film, photography…my crazy best friend Natalie. If you weren’ t Head of Womens Design you would be? A Plastic Surgeon, I love Science, Biology and creating. I’m a bit of a perfectionist Favourite DENHAM garment Jason’s jeans: the Cleaner In 15 years from now where will you be? Design Director or MD, I’d also like to own a boutique stocking my own label, that ’s also a place to exhibit work of friends, and to support new generation talent Amsterdams best kept secret I can’t tell you that, it ’s a secret…

Favourite DENHAM garment motion pants. duty jacket In 15 years from now where will you be? in amsterdam. working for denham Amsterdam’s best kept secret never tell a secret Best DENHAM moment opening amsterdam store(s) the first time at bread & butter show berlin Favourite DENHAM detail front yoke. dart point compression. tri-swing action back. one piece fly

What is your role at DENHAM? i am responsible for marketing & communications both in the home market and internationally. and the great thing about a small creative team… a whole lot more! What’s the first thing you do in the day? put my alarm on snooze and roll over again Favourite album no album..radio is the best! Favourite movie difficult one. . . the ones i saw a million times starting from a young age goes from mary poppins to grease, pretty women to dirty dancing Favourite city amsterdam. no place like home You love... good glass of red wine, dips & spreads, diy projects, fonts You hate... liars What defines you? myself What are your biggest influences? ON A PERSONAL LEVEL MY MOM & DAD. THEY HAVE FORMED ME TO WHAT I AM TODAY. AND MY HUBBY-TO-BE… HE MAKES MY GOOD QUALITIES EVEN BETTER, AND TRIES TO DIMINISH THE BAD ONES :) ON A PROFESSIONAL LEVEL LIAM MAHER, HE HAS BEEN MY MENTOR SINCE THE VERY BEGINNING AND JASON DENHAM, ALWAYS ON THE GO, ALWAYS TRYING TO GET MOST OUT OF IT.. YOU CAN FEEL HIS PASSION AND ENERGY TRANSFERRED TO EVERY SINGLE MEMBER OF THE TEAM! If you weren’ t a Marketeer, you would be? interior designer Favourite DENHAM garment vive In 15 years from now where will you be? i hope still here on planet earth.. Amsterdam’s best kept secret if i would tell you it wouldn’t be a secret anymore. but ok, the carpaccio sandwich with truffle mayonnaise from wasserette in de pijp is a great one! and for vintage furniture, go to neef louis & van dijk & co. in amsterdam-noord Best DENHAM moment tokyo trip for the store opening in daikanyama Favourite DENHAM detail 7-point pocket. the first signature denham detail!

Best DENHAM moment SS13 Look book shoot, a great team creates magic

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Favourite DENHAM detail There are so many, it ’s difficult to narrow it down, but the Scissor, it is iconic

HOUSE #1: AMSTERDAM | 2008

HOUSE #3: LONDON | 2010

STUDIO | STORE | SHOWROOMS

STORE | SHOWROOMS

Press Release DENHAM STORE #1 | DENHAM STORE OPENS Jason Denham’s new brand DENHAM unveils it’s first own-retail presentation at 495 Prinsengracht in Amsterdam’s 9 Street neighbourhood. Developed by Jason and his creative team, the shop manifests the spirit of the DENHAM label and brings to life the brand’s various inspirations and obsessions. EXPERIENCE The shop experience unfolds through a sequence of “zones” with denim itself forming the central heart of the concept. As each zone gives way to the next, new stories are presented and subtle changes in atmosphere can be detected through shifts in material, product display, sound and visuals. In each area of the shop a reverence for the best of tradition is mixed with a fresh contemporary energy... a signature mix of the old with the new. ZONE(1): THE GALLERY The shop entrance forms a gallery in which four primary stories of the brand are told in large glass shadow-box displays. The displays make use of historic items from DENHAM’s archives (the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY) along with modern elements, video-installation and photography. The stories told in these presentations include: DENHAM DENIM All about DENHAM’s unique approach to crafting contemporary artisan/tailored blue jeans. MENS The fusion of traditional Savile Row approaches with modern design and fabrication. WOMENS Sensual and romantic techniques updated and re-engineered into contemporary icons of the new feminine casual wardrobe. THE BLUE SALAD BAR A unique program whereby customers can customise signature DENHAM jean styles selecting from a range of color, hardware, leatherwork and stitch options with the final product being assembled by Jason Denham himself and ready for pick-up in seven days. SCISSORS FROM THE DGL An additional display case features antique scissors from the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY. Although this is only a small selection from the complete collection, it features both the original tailor shears Jason used to cut his first pair of jeans as well as a very rare pair of French “master tailor’s shears” from 1550. The interior styling of the gallery is rendered in pure minimalist white with accents of warm traditional woodwork including a reclaimed haberdasher’s antique caseline embedded into a clean white monolithic cash-counter, a DENHAM signature of “worshiping tradition” while “destroying convention”, bringing together the old with the new. Throughout the gallery the soundtrack is relaxing, melodic and softly exotic. ZONE(2): ACCESSORIES The gallery gives way to a warmly accented vestibule, clad entirely in micro-blocked natural wood featuring a rich golden oil-stain. The soundscape shift from exotic melody to the sound of ambient impression of a soft rain. The main message of the accessories area is DENHAM’s homage to classic turn-of-the-century soft sided steamer bags. Museum-quality specimen from the Louis Vuitton label circa 1910 as well as a WWII Air-force Pilot Navigation Case, both part of the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY, are displayed behind glass alongside the new designs they inspired. Both have been re-imagined in Japanese selvedge denim combined with rich saddle leather and finished with custom forged solid brass hardware. Unique small accessories created exclusively for the shop are also merchandised within the space. ZONE(3): DENIM, THE HEART OF THE MATTER sees a return to the pure white minimalist atmosphere but anchored by a second submerged antique menswear case. In the case the flagship models from the denim line are carefully displayed on upholstered chambray pads including styles with fabrications and finishes from both Japan and Italy. Along the white walls each denim model is faced-out creating a clear visual menu of the DENHAM jean collections for men and women and asserting the DENHAM design attitude through shape, surface and detailing. ZONE(4): READY-TO-WEAR The final shopping zone features the complimenting jackets, tops and knitwear that complete the DENHAM collection for Spring ‘09. Each style is displayed on custom forged and welded “scissor brackets” lined up along the entire length of both main walls. DENHAM STUDIO STORE: UNDER(1)ROOF The last shopping zone is flanked by a wholesale showroom where next season (Fall ‘09) is presented by appointment only. For the store opening the showroom was used to share selections from the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY for VIPs and the Press where some of Jason’s favourites from his historic archive were displayed by a roaring fire. Beyond a second door lies DENHAM’s design studio visible through a glass passageway that connects 495 Prinsengracht and the store with 493 Prinsengracht, the address of the DENHAM headquarters and design studio. Together the shop, studio, sales-office and showrooms create a singular expression of the overall DENHAM brand and unique synchronization between design, studio, product and customer. A BIT MORE... Alongside the DENHAM collection the new DENHAM STORE also sells special editions of Jack Purcell footwear, Malin & Goetz care products, RE eyewear and antique one-of-a-kind scissors. All items which are personal favorites and sometime obsessions of Jason and his team. Prinsengracht 495, 1016HR, Amsterdam

S E RV I C E CO. | 201 1 R E PA I R S E R V I C E

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Press Release Jason and the team at Denham are thrilled at the slow and steady re-emergence of craftsmanship in the world of denim. Artisan operations are just beginning to appear on the radar, inspiring renewed interest in fundamental quality and reigniting real appreciation for the joys of long-term denim ownership for a new generation. Having tested the waters with their Blue Salad Bar two years ago, Denham is now ready to reveal their unique take on the in-store atelier concept; the team at Denham has integrated each key element of their label’s basic premise of worshipping tradition while destroying convention to realize their contemporary vision on bespoke tailoring.

Press Release DENHAM STORE #3 | LONDON DENHAM will put down roots in London on October 14th. The company is reanimating a history-drenched four story warehouse transforming it into a hub for the brand in the United Kingdom. The building will house a full retail store presenting the label’s collections for men and women and will feature on-site denim repair and alteration services. It will also include dedicated wholesale showrooms and serve as base of operations for the Dutch label’s UK management team. The newly opened Service Co. is directly adjacent to the Denham Store at 495 Prinsengracht in Amsterdam’s nine streets neighborhood. The space was laid-out by Jason, “the Jeanmaker” himself, and perfectly reflects his idea of the ultimate bespoke workwear atelier. This space allows Denham customers access to all the support required for what should be the long rewarding journey between quality jean and passionate jean-wearing; leg-shortening, fit alteration, hand-washing and tear-repair. These are the operations that contribute the character and texture as a Virgin denim transforms into a perfectly broken in one-ofa-kind jean over months and years of wearing. Before Denham could offer the restoration of individual blue jeans, they had to oversee the acquisition and restoration of the individual sewing machines best suited to the task. Working with local specialists and procuring vintage machines from the US and Germany, Denham’s artisanal arsenal now includes: UNION SPECIAL (USA) 39300c Security overlock machine UNION SPECIAL (USA) 34500 Chainstitch hem machine SINGER (USA) 47W70 Darning repair machine DURKOPP (GERMANY) 212-105 Lockstitch machine

DENHAM’s first House, adjacent to the company’s headquarters was established in Amsterdam’s “Nine Streets” neighborhood directly in the brand’s backyard. The second DENHAM House in Tokyo represented a pilgrimage to the spiritual home of artisan denim craft in Japan. Opening now in London re-connects DENHAM to Britain’s tailoring heritage which exerts a steady influence on the brand’s signature approach to detail. The journey to England also represents a homecoming for Jason Denham who was born and raised in the UK. The new DENHAM House will establish residence for the label within East London’s famously frenetic Shoreditch neighborhood. The area’s dynamic creative population includes design agencies, art galleries and independent shops reflecting the same mix of heritage architecture and contemporary energy as can be found in and around DENHAM’s original Amsterdam location. DENHAM House London will express the same essential soul and attitude as both the Amsterdam and Tokyo locations; each founded on DENHAM’s central design proposition “Worship Tradition, Destroy Convention”. DENHAM House London, 32 Charlotte Road, EC2A 3PB, Shoreditch.

Each machine has been restored and re-housed within a row of modern workstations making it easy to interact directly with customers while providing the ultimate environment for jeanscraft. Since the journey from unworn to worn-in can’t start without a fresh pair, the space is also home to the Virgin denim collection, with a full range of unwashed Japanese denim jean models on offer. Denham’s Virgin denim program represents their gold-standard for unwashed denim and symbolizes the beginning of a highly individual journey each jean buyer travels from moment a pristine pair is taking home for the first time, to the pleasure of sliding into a uniquely worn-in favorite months later. Aside from selling the complete Virgin denim collection, services can be provided with turn-around times ranging from a short wait and a cup of coffee, up to 24 hours.

H O US E # 2 : TO K YO | 201 0 STORE | SHOWROOMS Press Release DENHAM STORE #2 | DENHAM TOKYO STORE デンハムトウキョウストア Opening to the public on June 4th, DENHAM’s stand-alone Tokyo store represents the second dedicated retail presentation following the successful opening of the label’s Amsterdam location. The new store’s Daikanyama address is perfectly suited for DENHAM’s distinct design ethic and product-culture. The district is home to Japanese denim temples Okura and Hollywood Ranch Market as well as newer concepts in modern utility such as Nanamica and respected international brands like Paul Smith. The store concept is a direct extension of the Amsterdam location’s design, expressing a signature approach to merging traditionalism and modernity. Deep wood flooring contrasts with gallery-style white walls and clean minimalist interior elements are accented with carefully selected industrial brocante. Custom forged scissor-brackets line the walls, serving to display the seasonal collection. A generous application of architectural text and projected video complete the picture when entering the store. The lower level houses a fully functional workbench where jeans can be shortened, with chain-stitch finishing, in-house on an authentic Union Special sewing machine. Together with founder Jason Denham legendary chronicler of vintage garments and creator of the My Freedamn book series, Rin Tanaka, will cut the ribbon at 6:30pm at the opening ceremony on June 4th. Mr. Tanaka will be on-hand throughout the evening to discuss his work and sign his books. D E N H A M TO K YO S TO R E デンハムトウキョウストア 2 0 1 0 年 6 月 5 日にグランドオープンする D E N H A M の日本発となる直営店舗は、アムステルダムでの成功に続く２番目のプレゼンテーションとなります。新店舗を構えるこの代官山というエリアは、 D E N H A M のデザイン倫理と、相反する製品文化を表現するのににとても適しています。というのも、“ オクラ ” や、“ ハリウッド・ランチマーケット” に代表される日本の老舗デニムブランドと、現代コンセプト・ストアである “ ナナミカ ” や、海外コレクションブランドである “ ポールスミス ” などが軒を連ねているからです。ストア・コンセプトは伝統主義と現代性を融合です。アムステルダム店を喚起させるデザインでさらに直接的に喚起するものにデザインされています。ギャラリースタイル：白壁と清潔でミニマルな要素を持った深みのあるウッドのフローリングは、b r o c a n t e でその表情を強調しています。季節ごとのコレクションがカスタムメイドによって作られた特別なシザー - ブラケットによって壁に並びます。店に入ると、アーキテクチャーテキストとイメージビジュアルがプロジェクターにより城壁に映し出されます。地下には、正統の U n i o n S p e c i a lミシンを設置し、昔ながらのチェーン・ステッチでジーンズを裾上げできる配慮がされています。また取扱い商品として、衣類やアクセサリー、小物だけでなく、M y F r e e d a m n（著者：リン・田中氏）といった書籍やランドリーバッグ、ソープといった、D E N H A M の考えるライフスタイルを喚起させる品揃えを考えています。デンハムトウキョウストア住所：東京都渋谷区猿楽町25-8 電話：03-3463-2253 営業：12:00-20:00

DENHAM COMES TO LONDON G Q S T Y L E N E W S | O C T. 2 0 1 0 text by Jamie Millar It would be too easy to say that Jason Denham was born to do denim. But it’s hard to resist when you hear the Amsterdam-based jean-maker talk about his craft. “I’ve worked in the industry my whole life. It’s that real cliché that I’ve never done a day’s work in my life. It’s my hobby. I love the denim. I love what I do.” Fifteen years after he moved to Holland, this week Denham is back in London with a new store - his third after Amsterdam and Tokyo - in a four-storey former warehouse on Charlotte Road in the heart of London’s Shoreditch. The legend above the entrance - “The truth is in the details” - is born out inside: archive pieces, exposed brickwork and scissors jutting from walls with jeans hanging from them. The effect is more that of a museum than a shop. Denham’s spiritual and actual home though is in the Netherlands. “Holland has a great jeanswear culture. In Holland they eat jeans for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s crazy. Because there’s a real jeanswear mentality, the customer is very educated. I set up a denim agency in Holland and I was consulting with brands. If people’s fits were wrong, we’d go and fix them, or if people couldn’t wash jeans, I’d go and show them how to do it. After a while I thought let’s make a brand. I made Blue Blood, which was great in the beginning but we sold it to an Italian company.” Following the sale, Denham travelled the globe for inspiration - call it his own personal Eat, Pray, Jeans. “I realised that there was nothing really exciting in the marketplace, nothing that got my heart pumping and gave me chicken skin. So I thought OK, my goal is to create mouth-watering, exciting product and everything that goes with it. That’s when I decided to use my family name, which was kind of meant to be. It had to happen at some point.” So what does get his washes flowing? “If you look at the trend of what’s out there now, everyone is following this big vintage story, looking back at archives for authenticity. I have a huge collection myself: old jeans, military stuff, workwear, old scissors, all kinds of stuff.” Such as a tailor’s scissor from 1550 - “In those days scissors were operated by two people so it has this long pin and blades. It looks a bit like Pac-Man” and a pair of Levi’s from 1940 in “fantastic condition”. “It’s not exciting enough just to recreate that, so we have this design mantra: worship tradition, destroy convention. What we love is to take things further, to make it exciting, to do different stuff. There was a guy in 1850 who said, ‘OK, I’m going to make a pair of jeans or a pair of trousers out of tent material. And to make them even stronger, I’m going to put nails in the pockets.’ No one thinks like that now.” No one except Denham, that is. “A lot of the collection is made from recut vintage materials. So we’ve been out buying Dutch army tents and ponchos and cutting them up and recreating them into new styles. It’s fabric which is 30 years old, which gives it its homage to tradition, but then we’ve invented a new style and moved it on.” Denham is adamant though that you don’t have to be a denim- obsessive to shop there. “The skill of being a good designer is knowing when to take the pencil off the paper. A lot of denim products are overdone. The way that we present our goods and the service that we give and everything that goes with it, that makes the customer come in and realise what’s going on. Just making the jeans and stacking them up and buying them in a box, that doesn’t really work anymore. Saying this jean is offered in a 32 leg and a 34 leg is a little bit old-fashioned. We’ve trained guys and imported the best Union Special machines from America [which had to be airlifted into the store], the original machines on which you do the chain-stitch hems. The whole idea is that people can come in and say, I want to wear my jean this length or this length, and we can alter it.” We hazard an educated guess that he wears a lot of jeans. “Every day. For a guy who’s worked in jeans all of his life, I have a lot in my closet but not as many as you’d expect. I like to take a fresh one, a clean one, and wear it wear it wear it for a few years and then wash it. In the three window boxes at the back of the store there’s one jean which was worn by myself for two years and washed one time and you can see all the character and personality. The next jean is by our art director who smokes a lot and you can see where his fag packet has been. His knees are worn out from cutting out. I like that kind of personality.”

B est burgers in town (For 2 burgers)

A utumn salad Butternut SQUASH peEled and sliced (As many different kind of mushrooms AS you can get) 4 table spoons of thymE Salt and pepPer table spoon of Chili flakes Rocket LEAVES Handfull of Walnuts Handfull of PecanS Soft goatS’ cheese (USE as much as you WOULD like)

D ressing Balsamic vinegar Olive oil Squeeze of lemon juice Salt and pepPer A FEW SPRIGS OF THYME Put the butternut SQUASH in the oven with 2 table spoons of thymE ( take more if you like) , olive oil, salt and pepPer and the chili flakes. Take them out as soon as they get soft. Bake the mushrooms with a table spoon of Thyme, olive oil and salt and pepPer. Make the salad by mixing the rocket, mushrooms, the nuts and the goat cheese. Sprinkle the dressing over the salad.

butternut,

SONJA’S KITCHEN EVERDAY A NEW RECIPE

COUSCOUS SAL AD

( W I T H M E R G U E Z S A U S A G E S A N D T Z AT Z I K I ) 300 grams of CousCous Handful of Mint Handful of Coriander Handful of Parsley 2 CLoves of garlic, squeezed 4 chopped tomatoes a SMALL AMOUNT of cumin seeds a bit of coriander powder a bit of pepper powder table spoon of chili flakes TOUCH of olive oil Big squeeze of lemon juice Salt and pepper. Put the couscous in a bowl. Put 500ml OF boiled water on top and leave it for a few minutes. Then mix it with all the ingredients and add as much salt and pepper to the dish as you like. That ’s actually the same for all the other ingredients.

T Z AT Z I K I 500 grams of GreeK Yoghurt 1 cucumber grateD 2 cLoves of garlic handful of mint chopped very very fine Touch of Olive oil Mix all the ingredientS together Bake the best merques sausages you can get. Serve the couscous with the sausage and the TZATZIKI

S onja ’ s S urinam C hic k en 1 kilo chicken breast chopped inTO fine pieces 1 big Onion chopped 2 cLoves of garlic chopped 3 table spoons of Garam masala 200mL of chicken stock salt and pepper Bake the garlic and the Onion in a litte bit of butter. When the union is soft put the Garam masala in the same pan and bake for 1 minute. Then put in the chicken and bake until they are a little bit brown. Then put in the chicken stock and leave it all in the pan for half a hour or even a bit more. Season it with salt and pepper.

400 grams of the best minced meat you can get teaspoon of fennel seEds touch of WORCESTER sauce touch of soya sauce salt pepper one egg teaspoon of nutmeg bit of sambal (HOT CHILI SAUCE) bit of mustard

(Two nice bread rolls) Toppings Half a courgette one tomato 2 Onions Handfull OF salad leaveS. USE the one you like the most, For example little gem.

B asil M ayonaise Mix a table spoon of finely chopped basil with as much of your favoUrite mayonnaise as you like. This is the easy way, Want to do it the traditional way: 3 egg yolks pinch of salt tea spoon of dijon mustard pinch of pepper (freshly ground if possible) 1 1/4 cups of flavorless cooking oil table spoon of chopped fresh basil Put the egg yolks in a food processor with the dijon mustard. and turn the food processor on. The first 30 seconds of making mayonnaise is the most crucial, so be careful during this period and go slow with the oil. SLOWLY begin pouring the oil into the food processor while it ’s on. After 30 seconds or so you can start pouring faster. Turn off the food processor when you’ve added all the oil. Add the salt and pepper, the basil and then cut the lemon in half and squeeze the juice into the mayonnaise mixture. Give the mix a quick burst with the food processor and done! Slice half of a courgette in thin slices and grill them. Slice one tomato, Slice the Onions and bake them in a bit of olive oil slowly until they are soft. This will take a while. Mix all the ingredients for the burgers. Make two burger SHAPES and grill them. Put the burger on the bread, on top of that the courgette, salad, tomato and the Onions and FINALLY put some mayonnaise on top. Enjoy!!

Serve the chicken with Turkish bread or white rice and stir fried chinese cabbage.

S u q uet

( fish in a delicious tomato sauce )

Sonja Batelaan rustling up another treat

2 onionS 2 cloves of garlic 8 tomatoes chopped olive oil 2 big potatoes 800 grams of any white fish chopped in pieces Salami tin of tomato puree tea spoon of sugar

P icada 3 table spoons of almonds finely crushed handful of parsley ZEST of 1 lemon 2 SACHETS of saffron Bake Onion and garlic. Bake the salami until they are crispy and take them out. Put in the chopped tomatoes and bake for 15 minutes. Put in a bit OF water ( half a glass) and the tomato puree. Make the Picada by mixing all the ingredients

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Chop the potatoes in big pieces and put it together with half of the Picada in the tomato sauce. Don’t let the sauce cook. Leave it on the heat until the potatoes are soft. 10 minutes before that put in the fish. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with a little bit of Picada and the crispy salami on top.

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

R I N TA N A K A

RIN TANAKA In jason denham’s words..

“RIN REPRESENTS THE PINNACLE OF ARCHIVING” Since the publication of his first seminal books on the history of the motorcycle jacket through each subsequent issue of his own My Freedamn book series, Rin Tanaka’s personal dedication to photo-archiving vintage garments has stood head and shoulders above anybody else. The passionate approach to preserving garment history manifested by these books was one of the key inspirations for the Denham team to even conceive of creating a Denham Garment Library of their own. For DENHAM, Rin Tanaka has always represented the pinnacle of responsible garment archiving. So it could be considered a little crazy that it took the team 4 full seasons to work up the courage to ask Tanaka-San himself to lend his technical prowess and boundless energy to the task of documenting some of the label’s own garment archives as well as completely new Denham garment prototypes designed as part of the brand’s Spring 2011 collection. To the team’s tremendous excitement Rin said “yes”. The resulting images are the pride of the team at Denham and the technical dexterity and creative sensitivity reflected in each of Rin’s photographs for Denham are already inspiring the team to seek to continue to increase the quality of their own efforts in documentation.

What’s the first thing you do everyday? turn on the tv switch to watch the news. my interest is japan stock market, currency rate and ny stock market etc. My main business is editing the books, but my most interest is ‘global economy ’; that ’s my university major Favourite album that ’s very difficult to answer, because i am a crazy music addict....probably the album i’ve listened to many, many times is ‘best of muddy waters’ Favourite movie nowadays i don’t watch movies much, but i have learned much about film during my college years. my favorite director is federico fellini, but favorite movie is the godfather or american graffiti You love... my philosophy for love is the same as things bob marley had. i mean love should be shared with any other people in the world You hate.. nothing, except ‘narrow views’ Best city in the world is.. i love southern california best to live, but san francisco should be best city, because it ’s a super nice neighborhood Your biggest achievement.. i am never satisfied with my past jobs, but probably ‘harley-davidson book of fashion’, published in 2008 Your favourite vintage piece ever.. very difficult to answer, but probably two-tone horsehide motorcycle jacket by trojan, manufactured in the 1940s or early 1950 s Where will you be in 15 years? my lifestyle has been “flying somewhere in the world every month” for last 14 years, but my dream is to spend peaceful retirement life with my wife in Hawaii!!

GRADE - Japan Dump Store. Photographed by Rin Tanaka

If you were not a photographer / vintage collector and book maker, what would you be doing? i wish to be a guitarist (although i wouldn’t be successful..) because the reason i went to u.s. when i was 20 years old was to study black music!! otherwise.... i’d be working for a japanese science or chemical engineering type company. just as my dad did and my big and small brothers do now. the basic philosophy of the tanaka family is ‘mathematics’, not art

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？テレビを点け、ニュースを見ます。私が興味があるのは、日本の株式市場、為替相場、N Y の株式市場等です。私のメインのビジネスは本の編集ですが、私が最も興味があるのは “ 世界経済 ” です。これは私が大学の時に専攻していたものです。好きなアルバムは？この質問に答えるのはとても難しいです。なぜなら、私は音楽の熱狂的中毒者だからです … 。恐らくとても、多く聴くアルバムは ” B e s t o f M u d d y W a t e r s ” です。好きな映画は？最近では、私は映画を余り観ません。ですが、私は大学在住中に沢山の映画について学びました。私の好きな監督は F e d e r i c o F e l l i n i です。ですが、好きな映画はゴットファーザーかアメリカン・グラフティです。 You love... 私の L O V E に関しての哲学は B o b M a r l yと同じです。 L O V Eとは世界中の人々とシェアされるべきものです。 You hate.. 偏狭な考え以外は、ありません。世界で一番好きな都市は？南部のカリフォルニアは住むには最高です。ですが、サンフランシスコは最高の都市です。最高のご近所さんがいるからです。最も優れた功績は？私は今まで一度も自分の過去の仕事に満足したことはありません。ですが、多分 2 0 0 8 年に出版された ” H a r l e y - D a v i d s o n Book of F a s h i o n ” だと思います。

今までで、一番好きなヴィンテージはなんですか？答えるのがとても難しいですが、多分馬の皮からできた T r o j a n のツートーンカラーのモーターサイクルジャケットです。1 9 4 0 年代か 1 9 5 0 年初期にかけて製造されています。今から15年後にはどこいるでしょうか？私のライフスタイルは過去 1 4 年間、” 毎月世界のどこかを飛び回っています ”しかし、私の夢は老後に妻と穏やかな生活をハワイで送ることです！！もし貴方がphotographer / vintage collector and book makerでなければどうなっていたと思いますか？私が 2 0 歳の時に米国に行った理由は、ギタリストになりたかったので（成功はしていないでしょうが … ）ブラックミュージックを勉強しに行きました。

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そうでなければ … 、私の父と兄弟が現在そうであるように、私は日本の科学や化学工学等の分野の会社で働いていたと思います。田中家の基本理念は ” 数学 ” であり、アートではありません。

Jason Denham & Rin Tanaka opening DENHAM Japan store

THE CUTTERS COUNCIL

BOB RIJNDERS

What’s the first thing you do everyday? open my eyes

朝目覚めて最初にすることは？目を開けます。

Favourite album everything from eagles of death metal! but johnny cash can make me a happy farmer too!!

好きなアルバムはデス・メタルのイーグルスから全てです！でも、J o h n n y C a s h もまた私をハッピーファマーにしてくれます！！

Favourite movie johnny cash and a lot more great ones not to mention all gangster and tarantino stuff!

好きな映画は Cash (Jo h n n y )と多くの偉大な映画です。勿論全てのギャング映画とタランティーノの映画は言うまでもありません！

Favourite city new york

好きな都市は New York

Favourite car ford mustang fastback 1965

好きな車は Ford mustang Fastback 1965

Favourite watch vintage omega sub or vintage rolex. any one will do..!

好きな時計はヴィンテージのオメガか、ヴィンテージのロレックスです。このブランドの時計ならどれでも！

Favourite drink life is too short to drink bad wine Favourite time of the day in the morning running through the farming country! and the taste in the evening of a nice glass of red wine and a magazine: free & easy; monocle; inventory. and of course any time with my family You love... my girls viv, puck & rebbel You hate.. FUNERALS What defines you ask somebody else!? What are your biggest influences honest people, old stuff, looking forward!! If you weren’ t a Butcher / shopkeeper / vintage hunter what would you be? i would probably not have been born :) Hooglands’ best kept secret? come and see for yourself, secret stays here... Your favourite thing about ‘Butcher of Blue’ jeans is... after 20 years working with blue jeans finally my own 5-pocket jean! that ’s a nice start for a new beginning!” In 15 years from now you will be... healthy, happy, with blue hands, and still sourcing around the world with my friends

好きな飲み物はまずいワインを飲むには、人生は短すぎます。一日の中で一番好きな時間は朝、農家の田舎までランニングすることです！そして夕方の赤ワインをすてきなグラスに入れ味見します。さらに雑誌 ( F r e e & E a s y ; Monocle; I n v e n t o r y ) を読みます。もちろん、いつでも家族と一緒にです。 You love… 私のガールフレンド V i vと娘の P u c k & R e b b e l です。 You hate…. 葬儀。あなたの定義は何ですか誰か他の人に尋ねてくれませんか！？最も影響を受けたものは何ですか正直な人、古きもの、前を向くこと！！

BOB RIJNDERS In jason denham’s words..

‘THE BUTCHER OF ALL THINGS BLUE . .” “Though the butcher is a very useful person to society, he is far from being respected. Slaughtering beasts, and other meat, he is sometimes compared to a hardened murderer. Do not think however that the butcher is an unfeeling man; he has been praised for his humanity and sensibility and care to his customers.” Our Friend Bob , “the Butcher………HUNTER , SCAVENGER, COLLECTOR” Bob and I go back a long way. We have a weird spiritual link that takes us back to the beginning of both of our careers. When Bob first opened his B.o.B (Best of brands) store or ‘Bobs Place’ as it was known back then I was designing a collection called DENIM DELUXE which was an anchor brand in his store. I remember that back in the day he sold it like crazy. I never really knew Bob in those days but I often heard about this guy in the highlands who was selling DENIM DELUXE better than anyone else in the Netherlands. Bob is like me, he has got blue blood. He is a denim guy every day. HUNTER, SCAVENGER, COLLECTOR – Since day 1 Bob has helped us build our brand, not only in his store but also in his favorite pastime ‘finding shit’. Bob is a vintage geek - just like us; together we have scavenged the world hunting in dump stores and markets in America, Europe and Japan. For a farmer he has very good taste and an instinctive nose on how to sniff out the best inspiration. The RE CUT DENHAM series owes a lot to Bobs hunting prowess. (we owe him a round of applause for this – Thanks Bob). THE BUTCHER OF BLUE is Bob’s true passion, Bob is a secret brand builder, he has built many brands in his store over the years and now its time for him to build his own – ‘ the Butcher of Blue ‘ is an honest, pure denim concept that comes directly from Bobs stomach. Its his gut instinct that creates the whole story. His iconic butcher hook will be adorning many pants in years to come , mark my words…… BOB STORE back in the day

もし貴方がBUTCHER / SHOPKEEPER / VINTAGE HUNTERにいなければどうなっていたと思いますか？恐らく、私は生まれてこなかったと思います。 Hooglands’ best kept secret? 実際に来て、見て下さい。秘密はここに … 。 ‘BUTCHER OF BLUE’のデニムの中で好きなことは何ですか？ 2 0 年後、ブルーデニムが遂に私の 5 ポケットデニムになること！それは新たな始まりとして素晴らしいスタートです！今から15年後にはどこいるでしょうか？この青い手と共に健康で、幸せでありますように。そして私の友人たちと、さらに世界中のヴィンテージを探してしています。 BOB’S STORE back in the day

Reinier RVDA BUTCHER OF BLUE / DENHAM event. Best of Brands, Hoogland

Bob vintage hunting in NYC

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Bob and Liam discussing haircuts. DENHAM womens store opening.

I N T E RV I E W W I T H JA S O N D E N H A M H I G H S N O B I E T Y | O C T. 2 0 1 0 text by Will Kemp First of all, what is the history behind you and the brand? I have been in Jeans all my life. Its what I love to do – I studied in Manchester. I left college on Friday, moved to London on Saturday and started working in the denim business on Monday. I haven’t stopped since and I don’t intend to for a while yet. Denham House in London is your third store worldwide. You were raised in the UK; does it have a special significance for you to open the new store over here? Absolutely, I have lived in Holland for 15 years – I travel often to London but to have a fixed home in London is a dream. It’s good to be back.

I N T E RV I E W W I T H JA S O N D E N H A M

BREAD & BUTTER “ THE ROCK” | SUMMER 2012

text by Pierre Darnton

text by Danielle De Bie

The buzz in recent years may have been about denim being on the decline, but we at View2 believe in all things blue, so we travelled to Amsterdam to meet Jason Denham, one of the founders of the Dutch denim scene, the man behind premium denim brand, Blue Blood, and new label, Denham the Jeanmaker. Back in 1992, Denham began his career in the workshop of Joe CasleyHayford making glammed up jeans for U2. He then spread his wings and headed to the Netherlands where he spent eight years as product manager for Pepe Jeans, after which he founded Clinic+, a specialist ‘creative denim agency’ working with clients including LVMH, Swift Denim Europe & Kuyichi. In 2002 he founded Blue Blood, a brand that today is sold in 30 countries around the world and regarded as a premium denim leader. After extensive traveling in 2007, Denham decided the market was missing excitement, whereupon Denham the Jeanmaker was born. Produced both in Japan and Italy, the brand is all about attention to details, placing it firmly on the denim map. Careful not to miss a trick, the brand is also currently working on collaborations with Jack Purcell and Nigel Cabourn. In January 2009 the Denham House opened its doors in the infamously cool Nine Streets area – definitely a must stop shop in Amsterdam.

DENHAM IS TRUTH. He belongs to the new blue breed, the “wild ones” who have turned the denim industry upside down: Jason Denham, a.k.a. the jeanmaker.

How would you describe what you do? I make jeans - I have done it all my life. I know it’s a cliché, but I love what I do – it’s a hobby and an obsessive passion, so I’ve never done a day’s work in my life. With a name like Denham was it possible for you to pursue any other career? I guess it was kind of meant to be! Before university, I dabbled with the idea of being a painter or graphic designer. I was always into fashion, and denim has always been at the centre of my collections. In another life, I quite fancy being a postman. It’s my second choice dream job! I don’t really sleep much - I am a morning person. I love the city when it’s asleep, I like to be ahead of the day. What are you working on today? Juggling three seasons – Summer 2009 will be delivered this month, Winter 09/10 will be launched next week and Summer 2010 concepts will be finalised this week. In January, we will open the first Denham store in Amsterdam. I spend my days making sure that it all runs like clockwork. How do you see the future of denim? The jeans market runs in cycles. For the last four years Scandinavia has led the way, four years before that America was leading and prior to that it was Japan. Now we are entering a new phase. Amsterdam is fast becoming a denim centre. The Dutch get denim, it’s their way of life. Amsterdam is becoming more international every year. I have been living in this city for more than a decade and the transition is massive. There is a creative hot-bed of talented designers being drawn to this city and a new breed of denim retailers are popping-up to service this audience on a regular basis. The big brands are not exciting anymore. Denim consumers, today, are better educated; they have been spoiled over the last decade by the explosion of alternative brands. Customers have a choice and I don’t think it will be the typical big brands in the future. What is the best place for inspiration? In bed! I always have a notebook and pen at the side of my bed. I often wake up and scribble conceptual ideas. What inspires you? My team. A guy called Liam Maher recently joined us from Young Meagher. Liam is one of the most inspirational creatives I have ever had the pleasure of working with. Your favourite website? VSOC (very superior old cars), I adore the aesthetic of pre-1970 cars. I’m not a speed freak, I love the designs. Do you collect anything? Vintage clothing - mostly military, denim and denim regalia, jeans, dolls, posters, books etc. What was your first job? 1992 at Joe Casely-Hayford - I worked on a jeans collection for U2’s Zooropa tour. We made 5 pockets out of denim, leather and suede patches of diamonds, hearts, clubs and spades. It sounds terrible, but they were great. I still have a pair in my collection…somewhere. Joe was an amazing guy. I used to watch him sketch. He would sit in his office with a pad of crisp white paper and a black Biro pen. He would draw a new design without taking the pen off the paper in one continuous line. The most beautiful drawings I have ever seen. Favourite book? The Cutters - printed in 1910 by John Williamson, publishers on Drury Lane, London. Favourite Album of all time? Ziggy Stardust. David Bowie’s early music rocks my world; unfortunately his dress sense doesn’t. I once read an interview where David once dared to admit that he has never worn a pair of jeans in his life. Weird?

What is perfect happiness in your eyes? Sitting in the pub with my wife and mates putting the world to rights. 162

DENHAM ‘KNOWN AS THE JEANMAKER’

VIEW 2 | JAN. 2009

It all started in 1992 when the Englishman teamed up with fashion designer Joe Casley-Hayford to create his first jean for U2. He went on to make a career at Pepe Jeans, Swift Denim and Kuyichi. In 2001 he founded his own jeans brand, “Blue Blood”. Finally, in 2009, he introduced his latest blue phenomenon Denham – The Jeanmaker. Art, science and industrial design are the essential components of his craft. Unsurprisingly, his role models are an artist, a scientist and an engineer: Adriano Goldschmied, who gets up every morning at six, already thinking about new jeans ideas whilst drinking his first espresso, Francois Girbaud, the pioneer in the field of sustainable technology who invented stone-wash by washing some jeans in a cement mixer and, last but not least, Pierre Morriset, whose industrial way of thinking is the basis of many new cuts and shapes Just like his role models, who have influenced the past three decades of jean-making, Jason has set new standards in denim again and again since the outset of his career twenty years ago. Since then, he has earned genuine admiration amongst the denim crowd – even the dinosaurs have a deep respect for the Englishman whose blood can only be blue. It’s probably because he treats the blue fabric, its past achievements and the jeans he makes with this same respect.

“Before creating a new pair of jeans I have to know its story and where it comes from,” He has also created the “Garment Library”, an extensive archive in his Amsterdam headquarters, a treasure trove of denim history. Jeans from 1850, firemen’s dungarees from the late 19th century, Japanese worker pants… a true source of inspiration. What’s old today is new tomorrow – for Jason Denham, such traditions are the foundation of his work. Based on this conviction and his philosophy of “the truth is in the detail” he creates jeans that combine progressive designs and experimentation with the heritage of jean making. And with the right sense of time, because “the secret ingredient for creating a great jean is to know when to take your pencil off the paper and stop designing,” Jason explains another one of his major principles. He always finds the right balance of these components when making a Denham jean. Another good example for this perfect play with the old and the new are the two Denham stores at Amsterdam’s lively Nine Streets neighbourhood. While Denham Store 495 at Prinsengracht matches pure white with accents of warm traditional woodwork the Denham Women’s Boutique which just opened a few weeks from here at 17 Runstraat opposes pure modernism with rock & roll and bohemian nonchalance. Opposites attract: for Spring-Summer 2013 Denham and his design team meld the world of contemporary music festivals with the doctrine of contemporary military detailing. They hold up tradition by destroying conventions matching real-time utility, emblematic artwork, re-contextualized camo-prints and tiny accents of nearly high-vis color-shots as well as modern nylons and nylon blends. As a result, the worlds of music festival and mil-spec don’t seem so far apart after all. Thus, opposites… can also be very attractive!

It’s unusual to find a brand’s store, office, and showroom all housed under one roof – is this a deliberate move to present all aspects of the brand in a cohesive way? Yes, this was my dream from day 1. I want to have this set up all over the world. We already have this concept in Amsterdam and Tokyo and next year we plan 3 more DENHAM HOUSES encapsulating the full brand experience. The Shoreditch store is a treasure trove of vintage tailors’ scissors, sewing machines and cotton reels. Is it important for you that every aspect of the brand displays this attention to detail? Yes, the motto above the window as you walk in to the store says “THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS”. This is what our brand is all about. I have collected tailors scissors for a long time, our collection dates from 1550 to the present day. Its important to worship tradition however its also important to destroy convention but that’s another question……. Your mission statement is “Worship Tradition. Destroy Convention”. How do you put this into practice when designing a collection? In 1850 some crazy fuckin’ dude decided to make pants out of tents and then he decided that he would hammer nails into the pockets to make them stronger. Think about it? – it was a radical crazy idea. Nobody thinks like this today. Our design team is using this influence and rethinking the way we do things. We ask a lot of questions to ourselves before we start designing. We always start the concept with original vintage pieces but we reinvent and find our own interpretation / solutions.

“Denim will always be our headline but the stuff around it is developed and presented with the same integrity.” Since every brand and its dog seem to be invoking heritage and tradition these days, do you feel that this more irreverent approach sets you apart from the pack? For sure, the high street is even vintage inspired these days. Nigel Cabourn, Gitman Brothers and RRL are recreating vintage better than anyone – leave it to them we are busy trying to create something new. You’ ve brought elements of tailoring into your denim range, for instance darting and boxed buttonholes. These are traditional details, but when they’re applied to jeans the result seems very unusual. Do you think that the idea of the traditional jean is outdated now? Yes and no. Its weird because if you look back to the first work pants made in 1850 they were seriously tailored. Tailoring came before workwear. It was tailoring techniques that were adopted and reinvented in early jeans wear. We try and adopt techniques that suit jeans culture in 2010. As a denim aficionado, how do you stand on the raw vs. distressed debate? After all, you produce jeans both in raw selvedge denim and in a range of washes, some of them pretty heavily pre-distressed… I am one of the rare denim heads that gets off on washed products as well as Virgin denims. I have a big collection of old washed out pieces that I use as inspiration for my collections. I am lucky enough to have worked with the best laundries in the world from Italy and Japan. On the flip side I studied textiles and spend a lot of time developing special denim fabrics. In January we will introduce a unique Virgin denim which is 50 – 50 indigo cotton and paper. The denim cloth is woven in Japan on traditional selvedge looms. How do you feel about the spread of denim geekery in recent years? Do you think people care more than they used to about the quality and fabrication of their denim, or has ‘selvedge’ become just another buzzword? I have watched the passion for denim grow for 20 years whilst I have been actively working in this industry. The biggest thing I have noticed is that consumers are getting better educated everyday. This is a combination of the power and speed of internet communication also a sign of the times. Today people are looking for quality. We live in a fast, disposable world. Quality is more important than ever……. You keep an archive of vintage clothing in your Denham Garment Library, and you present some of these pieces online. A lot of people would jealously guard this kind of inspiration rather than share it. I get the impression you’re almost evangelical about spreading your interest in vintage garments… We are very open and show a lot of pieces on our site. We never designed the 501 or the MA1 or the M65. Therefore we don’t own it. Its good to share sources of research. I often get together with Nigel Cabourn (who has one of the best vintage collections in Europe) and we share rare finds, knowledge and experience. We’ ve established your interest in the history of clothing. So what does the future hold for Denham? We want to make the most exciting mouth watering collections including, denim, chinos, technical jackets, knits, accessories, etc. Our aim is to put all our passions in to all product groups. Denim will always be our headline but the stuff around it is developed and presented with the same integrity.

R E - C U T A N D S TA RT A G A I N

D E N I M P S YC H O S

H E L L’ S K I T C H E N | M A R C H 2 0 1 2

WA D M A G A Z I N E | J U N E 201 0

text by Marc Briant-Terlet

text by Pierre-Henri Camy

D E N H A M R E - C U T P RO J E C T: W I T H L I A M M A H E R

Holland, the other jeans’ country. Its temple? Denham a “shop/HQ/ showroom” where denim inspires denim and lives several existences, as an exhibited collection item or as a new model matrix for a line. WAD met exceptional “jeanmakers” and a real haute couture house dedicated to jeans. 493-495 Prinsengracht, Amsterdam’s typical thoroughfare where one must visit a very long boutique with rooms leading into one another, made of wood… An immediate shock for anyone who worships denim: the one that the Denham label created, less than two years ago, is of an amazing quality. Among other local specialities, a workshop where your new jeans can be fitted or customized with the “Blue Salad Bar” program buttons or rivets, and why not by a dog collar made of denim, or some jeans diapers, a classic Vuitton bag replica or this homage to the typical Dutch shopping bag? Or maybe you’ll prefer this Denham sake bottle made in Japan.

Hello, before we even get started could you please tell us who you are and what you do at Denham? My name is Liam Maher. I’m the Design Director at Denham. I work together with the founder Jason Denham who focuses mostly on the denim items while myself and the others on our small crew focus on the rest of the collection with an emphasis on non-denim, particularly tops. This project started in 2010, what were the motivations behind? What made you realize that you can use different clothing you have and turn them into a new one? I guess I should emphasize that we’re not the first label to Re-Cut or “upcycle” garments made from textiles from alternative vintage sources. We’ve been aware of many great small brands who’ve begun to do the same sort of thing and we’ve admired their efforts. But for us it started with a very practical impulse probably common to most designers seeking to weave-in a sense of “real” character and history into their creations. The best way for it to feel real seemed to be if it actually was real. For example, we admired Gore-Tex product and its history. We’re not a technical outdoor brand and at the time we weren’t even authorized to use Gore-Tex, but we loved the idea of buying-up some inventory of military surplus bivouacs made with 3L Gore-Tex and cutting them into men’s sportcoats. In the same season we concluded that the best way to reproduce the feeling and patina of Japanese boro-fabrics was to acquire actual antique boro garments, take them apart and re-stitch the fabric into our designs. One of our design mantras is to “Worship Tradition” while “Destroying Convention”. It may sound funny but locating and procuring these textiles can sometimes feel a little like an act of worship. Cutting them up to make something new can feel a little like destruction in pursuit of progress. So these re-cut projects wind up meaning a great deal to us since they touch both sides of the central design-contradiction that drives us. This project is very technical, ver y functional, when you create such clothing does the function prevail over form or does the functional detailing are part of the form? I mean you have a certain functional detail because it is useful as well as beautiful, a sort of aesthetic of the functionality. We should be proud to hear it described that way. I’m not sure about technical, but it’s certainly very detailed and “The Truth is in the Details” is one of our other design-mantras. I think a functional ideal is fairly instinctive to us. For myself I spent time directing creative at places like Timberland in the 90’s and Burton Snowboards after that and I suppose those experiences may have engrained some impulse toward function in my own approach, but honestly it might also just be a bit of a regular guy-thing.

“But our work isn’t purely about function. For me the best moments are when we push one of our more inventive functional concepts all the way through development and we realize that it looks cool as well.” One of the reasons I love these kinds of details is because being able to see how they work relates completely to being able to see how they look. It’s more than the cliche of form following function. I like to think you can get a sense of how the designer’s mind works as well and it sets up a sort of human interaction between us and the person ultimately wearing the stuff. I assume that in order to put this project on wheels, you need an incredible amount of vintage clothing, do you spend a lot of time digging both for your archives and the re-cut? Yes we do. There are those out there who do it more, but we enjoy spending plenty of quality time foraging and rummaging. In fact we get so excited about that part of the job that we make very shaky homevideos which we post in the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY section of our website. Is it for you a way to improve the technicality of a classic jacket? I think for example about one of your last re-cut creation, this M65 jacket made from a Dutch army poncho. The Duty Re-Cut M65 was a follow-up to the original Duty jacket. In the design for the Duty we introduced what we thought were new but respectful improvements to the classic military-issue M65. For example; the overlapping piggy-back pockets inspired by trucker’s wallets, the pre-curved arms with compression “dots” strengthening the dart-ends, the contour of the cuff rotated to a position we thought was better than the original, the addition of the vertical airplane ticket pocket and our signature “cable connection” alternative to conventional button-holes. Guys who invested in the original Duty seemed to really like it and to have very qualitative garment as well and for an interesting price even though you have to add the cost of the time you spend searching for this, doesn’ t it? I probably shouldn’t say it but we don’t look at the Re-Cut projects in terms of a return on investment. Over the course of the various projects we’ve used a very wide range of materials. We’ve used museum-grade materials which have not been cheap for us to buy such as vintage boro items from Japan, hand-loomed tribal indigo from Indochinese hill tribes and pure silk parachutes from WW2. We’ve also used material with more modest origins like white canvas military snow-tarps, Dutch army ponchos and dead-stock French mattress linens. We try to price the finished items in a way that reflects their real value, at least in our minds. Certainly the prices also reflect the rarity of the fabric and the intensity of the effort, but it’s not a direct relationship and in the end we try to work it so that they represent a very good deal for the customer who appreciates this sort of thing.

DIFFERENT JEANS Englishman Jason Denham’s (pronounced “denim”) office is like a museum. There, antique jeans from different origins are exposed. They are the DNA of the Denham collection, the inspiration, nobody here denies it! One of Ad’s trousers (brand manager who left Nike after 16 years of service for the Swoosh) worn-out, coloured, patched, will come back to life (besides “basic” models) in the First Edition line, items first produced to 150 copies and distilled in one unique shop in each country (Colette in Paris), then distributed within the Denham’s network six months later. “Some very natural vintage”, explains Jason, ex-student of the Manchester University (Fashion Design), and designer Joe Casely-Hayford’s collaborator for whom he created some of the U2 stage costumes. He then opened Clinic, his design agency, and launched his Blue Blood brand. “With Denham, I wanted to create a label that would be respected on the market”, he points out, before showing us a photo on which he stands next to G-Star designer, Pierre Morisset, and vintage expert Nigel Cabourn. Also in the frame, Adriano Goldschmied to whom the “European jeans owe everything”, and François Girbaud who taught him that “jeans could be different”… On his desk, a rare Renzo Rosso (Diesel’s boss) doll and, on the wall, some antique Levi’s ads, “the jeans inventors! “THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS” Jason shows immense respect for Japan, which produces the best quality denim cloth, where people “understand stories” and where a Denham boutique was opened on the 4th of June (Paris soon!): “Tokyo is the denim capital of the world and Amsterdam is the European one”. In Japan, Denham found some punctures of authentic kimonos that were used to create fitted lady’s jackets made out of 25 different materials (1 500 euros)... We will dare talk about haute couture. In England it is with the crazy guys from A Child Of The Jago that Denham performed a “collusion” around two legged pieces. In this institution where they “re-cut” and perform “re-tailoring” – even “rufftailoring” -, you can hear people say “we respect traditions but destroy conventions”. Formerly from Timberland and Burton Snowboards, the design director Liam Maher declares:

“Our roots are in workwear. We don’t offer ‘technical’ garments, but useful ones.” Amazingly ingenious, the jackets, parkas and vests that he dissects in front of us are made out of Dutch army blankets, tent material or metal and stuffed with killing details. Leaving these jeans psychopaths whose offer is wide, we confirm the label’s slogan: “The truth is in the details”.

Hollande, l’autre pays du jeans. Son temple? Denham, un “shop/q.g/ showroom” où le denim inspire le denim et vit plusieurs existences en tant que pièce de collection exposée ou matrice d’un nouveau modèle au public destiné. Immersion chez des “jeanmakers” d’exception, véritable maison de haute couture dévouée à un pantalon universel. 493-495 Prinsengracht, voie typique d’Amsterdam où l’on se doit de visiter une boutique, très longue, en enfi lade, dominante bois... syncope immédiate chez qui idolâtre le denim : celui ici proposé par Denham, maison née il y a moins de deux ans, est d’une qualité renversante. Entre autres spécialités locales, un atelier où faire ajuster son nouveau jeans ou l’équiper à la carte des boutons et rivets du programme “Blue Salad Bar”; et pourquoi pas s’offrir un collier de chien ou une coucheculotte en jeans, une réplique en denim d’un classique bag de Vuitton, un hommage au typique sac de courses hollandais - toile de voile, intérieur jeans - ou la bouteille de saké Denham made in Japan? ARTISANAT Jouxtant la boutique, un showroom-laboratoire, un atelier de création et une cuisine destinée à un jeune team souriant. Les jeans du personnel se retrouvent parfois exposés dans le shop : l’un a vécu un an sans lavage, l’autre a subi une trempette sur la French Riviera, et certains sont installés dans une cour où ils mutent durant des mois avec la météo locale. Partout, des ciseaux, l’outil du tailleur, parfois gigantesques, décorent et rappellent que le jeans est une création artisanale et noble, ce que dégagent les créations Denham. JEANS DIFFÉRENTS Le bureau de l’Anglais Jason Denham - prononcer “denim” -, fondateur de la marque, tient du musée. Y sont exposés d’antiques jeans de différentes provenances, soit l’ADN du vêtement inspirant - on ne s’en cache pas - les collections Denham. L’un des pantalons d’Ad (brand manager débauché chez Nike après 16 ans de service pour le Swoosh) usé, colorié et rapiécé, revivra (en marge de modèles “basiques”) dans la gamme First Edition : des pièces tout d’abord produites à 150 exemplaires et distillées dans un unique shop par nation (colette à Paris), puis distribuées dans le réseau Denham six mois plus tard. “Du vintage très naturel”, explique Jason, ex-étudiant de la Manchester University (section Fashion Design), puis collaborateur du créateur Joe Casely-Hayford pour lequel il a donné vie à des costumes de scène destinés à U2. Viennent ensuite son agence de création, Clinic, et sa marque de jeans Blue Blood. “Avec Denham, j’ai voulu construire une marque respectée sur le marché”, indique-t-il, avant de nous présenter une photo sur laquelle il pose aux côtés de Pierre Morisset, designer de G-Star, et l’autorité du vintage Nigel Cabourn. Également encadrés, Adriano Goldschmied, à qui “le jeans européen doit tout”, et François Girbaud, qui lui a appris que “le jeans peut être différent”... Dans une vitrine, une poupée rare de Renzo Rosso (boss de Diesel) et, au mur, d’antiques pubs Levi’s, ceux qui ont “inventé le jeans!”.

nous certifions le slogan maison : “The truth is in the details.” DENHAM: FROM TOP TO BOTTOM F T G E R M A N Y & FA S H I O N T O D AY / C U LT J A | J A N . 2 0 1 2 Text by Alexander Moust Exploring the 5 story building of the DENHAM brand flagshipstore in Amsterdam is like walking around in a modern jeans factory where shop, service center, kitchen, storage, large showrooms, design and atelier spaces merge together with no strict borders between them. At least they feel totally open to me – the informal atmosphere breaths passion and dedication to dressmaking. I need to walk up with PR-manager Vivian, who will take me around the various floors and people working in the building. As we enter the attic studio, a clean console to stand at with a computer and cutting and drawing tools on the side dominate the view. The room not larger then 30 sq meters is packed with garments and a collection of folded suits, coats and jackets - my eyes are drawn to a B&W photo by August Sander. It appears to be not just an adornment of the intimate workspace. Designer Liam Maher explains why: I grew up in the seventies and eighties and worked for Timberland for 7 years. My British father traveled a lot and we had to move from the US to Europe every now and then. I saw a lot of different work, sports and army clothing around the world as teenager. An uncle of mine was a professional comic strip artist, so in a way I grew up in a iconic masculine storytelling and travelling kind of environment. My parents grew up in the depression era. And they are – like myself – very critical of obsolescence and surplus in material goods and fashion. In those times something like a bicycle or coat just looked like any other and here we come back to the clothing in the picture of August Sander’s ‘’bricklayer’’ taken in 1928 – such a great image - in which working men have real dignity in wearing just this one iconic waistcoat. Does it bother you that fashion is a global business today and that it is not really linked to a regional profession or functionality? Well, I think that this baseball jacket from the sixties I just bought in Seattle as part of this archive and my inspiration, also represents team building. When you put this on it really feels like it SHOULD feel. That triggers issues of cultural memory. I think clothing is really, really important – it’s a vessel for cultural memory. Clothing literally wraps the body and is therefore very intimate at the heart of its function. We pass a few floors going down the stairs meeting other designers for both the web shop and the department where the new collection was recently assembled. All areas are filled with hanging and lying clothing in various tones, fabric, photos for inspiration and drawings on the wall. On the second floor we find founder Jason Denham surrounded by his gadgets and magazines for which he is glad to say the word ‘’inspiration’’ is correct. ‘’Others might see it as ‘’junk’’, he says - but this is my world, my pallet of ideas. ‘’ His dream was to realise his company in the warm heart of his beloved Amsterdam. With its free spirit, riding a bicycle along the canals to work goes perfectly with a jeans - or better – a ‘’denim of all ages’’ - clothing atelier and brand with an outspoken self created identity. “A Japanese magazine did 13 pages on our typical ‘’family like’’character and ‘’the truth is in the details’’ attitude that they adore. Our collections go well with that market as we specially graded and seized it for it. Japanese culture is very much like the ethos of this brand. Worship tradition, destroy convention is one of our philosophies.” Jason Denham What were the first jeans you wore? When I grew up the trendy brands were chippy, chevignon, liberto etc. I got to know Levi’s – the real jeans I learned –

“I made my first jeans myself at the age of 18 as I realised it was going to be my future.” My mum is very creative with textiles and furniture. My dad can build and make anything work in his workshop – tools lying all around – and I’m a product of them both. We are in dressmaking because we really love it. Not because jeans and denim are a commodity. Globally we have 50 people working for Denham directly. We have a small turnover, but growing in a healthy way – keeping it manageable. Key markets are Japan, the Netherlands, the UK and Germany. Initially, I used to have a studio called Clinic- a clothing consultancy company. We started with a few tables and chairs and grew steadily and organically. With the same number of people and just maintaining the quality, we’ll be able to expand further. We believe in product- and spending a bit more money but enjoying it a lot longer. Disposable goods are not my thing; fashion is an investment. The cotton based organic product we are wearing can become our second skin in time. The product evolves in the collections but also on you as you wear them. On the groundfloor clients shop, try items on, have them washed, retouched or fixed in the service center. Here all parts of the DENHAM puzzle come together. Sturdy with dignity – they create an image and a persona to go with them. Just like the documentary art photographs shot by August Sander close to a century ago, a sense of timelessness permeates through them.

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For example, for a re-cut project what is the ratio research/ construction? Do you spend more time searching for vintage clothing or for re-cuting it and turn it into something new? I hope it’s not a cop-out to say that we do 100% of both. We are always researching vintage. During the course of our work, in the evenings, on weekends, on holidays... -always. We’re also always thinking of how to create something new. During the course of our work, in the evenings, on weekends, on holidays... -always. We’re always doing both.

CRAFT INDUSTRY Next to the boutique, a laboratory-showroom, a design workshop and a kitchen dedicated to a young smiling team. The staff’s jeans sometimes end up being exhibited in the shop: one lived a year without being washed, another was dipped in the French Riviera sea and some others are set up outdoor for months where they mutate with the local weather. Everywhere, scissors, the tailor’s tool, sometimes huge, decorate the place and remind you that jeans are a real craft and a noble creation as proven by Denham’s pieces.

“LA VÉRITÉ EST DANS LES DÉTAILS” Jason fait montre d’un respect immense envers le Japon, là où estproduite la meilleure toile denim, où l’on “comprend les histoires” et où une boutique Denham a été inaugurée le 4 juin (bientôt Paris!) : “Tokyo est la capitale mondiale du jeans, et Amsterdam l’européenne”. Du Japon, Denham a d’ailleurs révélé des ponctions d’authentiques kimonos ayant contribué à créer des vestes cintrées pour femmes faites de 25 tissus distincts (1 500 euros). Osons parler de haute couture. En Angleterre, c’est avec les fous d’A Child Of The Jago que Denham s’est livré à une “collusion” autour de pièces à deux pattes. Dans cette institution où l’on “re-cut” et pratique le “re-tailoring” - voir le “rufftailoring” -, “on respecte les traditions et détruit les conventions”. Ancien de chez Timberland et Burton Snowboards, le directeur de création Liam Maher assure : “Nos racines sont dans le workwear. Nous ne proposons pas des vêtements techniques, mais utiles”. Bluffants d’ingéniosité(s), les vestes, parkas et blousons qu’il dissèque sous nos yeux sont constitués de couvertures de l’armée hollandaise, de toiles de tentes ou de métal, et truffés de détails qui tuent. Au sortir de chez ces psychopathes du denim, à l’offre généreuse, bien au-delà du jeans,

October 2010 re-connects Denham to Britain’s tailoring heritage which exerts a steady influence on the brand’s signature approach to detail. The journey to England also represents a homecoming for Jason Denham who was born and raised in the UK.

L AY I N G T H E F O U N D A T I O N S E S TA B L I S H E D | J A N . 2 0 0 8 Brand Release DENHAM was conceived in 2008 by internationally respected jeanmaker, Jason Denham. The label represents his sincere resolve to resist compromise and focuses on a signature range of premium denim as well as a unique collection of tops and accessories. One step inside the DENHAM design studio and even a casual observer can sense what’s going on. Fewer than half-a-dozen creatives with a combined experience of over half of century in the field of workwear and utility garment design apparently share a deep seated view that now it is their turn. Born in the 60’s and 70’s and weaned on the design cultures of the 80’s, 90’s and 00’s they share a universal and passionate culture that transcends their individual regional perspectives. Despite having cut their creative teeth in the rich and varying landscapes of the UK, Europe and the US they rarely require extensive dialogue to determine direction. Replacing the standard chatter of trend analysis and market tactics is the throb of music, the reassuring whir of an industrial sewing machine, the gnashing of scissor blades and more mysterious sounds of experimentation, all which combine to create an atmosphere that is equal parts workshop, laboratory, research centre and dynamic modern design atelier. The team is still young and naïve enough to try new approaches. And they’re still young enough to work with the sometimes, breakneck momentum associated with youthful enthusiasm. But they’re also experienced enough to work with a confidence and discipline that ensures a constant focus on quality, workmanship and execution. For them the truth is in the details.

SIMPLE ORGANISATION. RICH CONTENT Already recognized for its own approach to worshipping tradition and destroying convention and slated for publication in the international Creative Review, Denham’s website is organized to simply allow visitors to “look close”. -To inspire anyone interested to take the time to examine the label’s products, their details and their genuine inspirations and back stories. The format is as basic and intuitive as a friend’s bookshelf. Scan the titles, open up a story that catches your eye and take a minute to get to know more. Some stories maybe brief, others may be jam-packed with information. It depends on the subject. -And visitors can always throw a story back on the shelf in order to pull another one down. The user is always in control. Information is presented with nearly absolute transparency. There are no marketing agencies or copywriters filtering the message. The team all contributes directly to the effort and the result is informative, textured and sometimes surprising. The site provides a framework within which each collection is presented and easy access is given to online shopping, but there is an equal investment made to sharing the less commercially motivated passions of the brand in categories like the online Denham Garment Library and Cutter’s Council forum. w ww.denhamthejeanmaker.com

The DENHAM label is focused on balancing an intense commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition. In step with founder Jason Denham’s long held personal creative convictions, they endeavour to manifest a practical “jeanmaker” attitude of honest craftsmanship multiplied by fearless experimentation and invention not only in every jean they create, but in every garment in the line and every other aspect of the label. WORSHIP TRADITION : DESTROY CONVENTION The process of making begins with looking. A humbling sense that they can never look “too closely” at any of the hundreds and hundreds of vintage specimens within their Denham Garment Library inspires them to explore every detail on the best and most iconic denim, casual and utility garment examples. They’re striving to recreate this clothing’s timeless wearability, add to its rich style-culture and contribute to its tradition of hard-won incremental innovation... a process that has sometimes taken centuries to evolve. They’re working to create something uncompromisingly new, but they’re also determined to root it in the strongest possible foundation. The habit of looking closely reminds them that it takes generations to establish a great tradition and achieving quality is never simple. Quality is the source of the fibres before they are spun into yarn. It is about weaving specifications, construction techniques, dyeing and laundering processes. It is about hardware, closures, labelling and finishes. It is about the front side, the backside, the inside, the right side and the other side. It ‘s not simple, It’s complicated. But ultimately for DENHAM it’s become addictive. DESTROY CONVENTION : CONVENTION PREVENTS PROGRESS Contrary to popular belief, traditions are not honoured by blind mindless repetition. Traditions are advanced through challenging convention in a constant search for improvement. DENHAM’s clear ambition is to add to tradition through trial-and-error, through innovation and invention. A closer look around DENHAM’s studio confirms that these folks are willing to try things others might even regard as a little bit crazy. The sweetest fruit is sometimes hanging furthest out on a limb and the team is obviously resolved not to let fear get in the way. Holding their label to a higher standard of invention also accounts for the brand’s fearlessness when it comes to sharing their personal archive. Where their competitors might horde away their research material, DENHAM is happy to regularly publish key artifacts from their Denham Garment Library online for the world to see in hopes of spreading the same passion for quality, utility and detail in anyone willing to join them in “looking close”. This unconventional generosity is also a testament to their commitment to move things forward and never be content merely reproduce the work of others, even if those others’ names have sometimes been safely lost to history.

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DENHAM HOUSE Products with this kind of commitment to craftsmanship, invention and progression could hardly be born in a generic working environment. The Denham studio is the engine-room of DENHAM HOUSE on Amsterdam’s historic Prinsengracht in the city’s 9-streets neighbourhood. Designed and executed by the same tight team responsible for the collection, DENHAM HOUSE is home not only to the design, the Denham Garment Library and the rest of the “home office”, it also boasts the first dedicated Denham shop attached directly to the rest of the facility. The authentic and naturally rich space has been carefully refitted to give shape to DENHAM’s simple vision of tradition and modernity, extending the label’s message directly to real customers in real-time every day. In June 2010, the second Denham House in Tokyo has been opened, representing a pilgrimage to the spiritual home of artisan denim craft in Japan. The newest Denham House location in London, opened in

デンハムのスタジオを見渡してみれば、彼らが、他人から見れば少しおかしいと思われるような事に喜んで挑戦する人たちだという事が分かります。最も甘い果物は、時に最も手が届かない所にあると言いますが、このチームはそれに恐れずに手を伸ばす人々です。たとえ競合ブランドが、彼らの研究材料に群がったとしても、彼らの、クオリティー、機能性やディテールに対する情熱を、“looking close”に加わることを望む人には誰にでも同じように広めていく為に、喜んで彼らの衣類資料庫にあるものを定期的に見てもらいます。彼らのこの寛容さは、他人の作品をただ再生するのでは満足せず、常に前進していこうという彼らの気持ちの表れです。 “DENHAM HOUSE” 職人の技術、創意、そして進化することを全力を傾けているこのような製品は、世にある一般的な製作環境から生み出されることはめったにあれいません。アムステルダムの9番街にある歴史的に有名なプリンセングラヒト運河に建つDENHAM HOUSEの中でも、Denham studioはその機関室と言えます。DENHAMのコレクションにも携わっているチームによってデザインされたDENHAM HOUSEにはDenham Garment Libraryや本社があるだけでなく、DENHAMの記念すべき一号店があることでも知られています。伝統と現代性を併せ持つDENHAMのビジョンを日々顧客にダイレクトに伝えるべく、DENHAM HOUSEは改築を重ねながら、美的で自然な豊かさを兼ね備えた空間を保ち続けています。

DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRITY

Denham design is permanently tied to their belief in denim’s basic integrity. They look at the core of what drives jeans culture to inspire the approach they take in everything they do.

て崇められているのではありません。伝統は、コンスタントに改良を重ね、古いしきたりに挑み続ける事により、常に進化しています。デンハムの明確なゴールは、試行錯誤を通して、また革新と創造を通して、伝統の一助となる事です。

Designer Profile：“JASON DENHAM: THE JEANMAKER” ジェーソンデンハム。イングランド生まれ。1992年に、U2のジーンズを製作しているジョーケイスリーヘイフォードの元にてキャリアをスタート。Pepe Jeansのプロダクトマネージャーとしてキャリアを積んだ後、Clinic+を設立。LVMH,Swift denim&Kuyichi等クライアントの、デニムマーケット内での明確なポジション確立をサポート。2001年に、Blue Bloodを設立。 2010-2011 Autumn Winter Collection：「実用性 / 予想外のスタイリング」今季のコレクションは熟練の港湾労働者が体現する妥協のない実用性からインスピレーションを受けています。ロッテルダムの湾岸やオランダ東インド社、イギリスやアメリカの港からやってきた人々。多様な生地を組み合わせたレイヤーが特徴的な彼らの実用的なスタイルがこの冬のコンセプトを作り上げています。異国の港町からやってきたロマンティックな生地ときちんとした着こなしが基となり、2010年秋冬のウィメンズコレクションではイギリス刺繍やミニオールオーバープリント、シルク素材のジャージが組み込まれています。 BRAND release AW10 一歩デンハムのデザインスタジオに足を踏み入れると、どんな人でも中で何が起こっているかを感じることでしょう。半世紀以上にわたるワークウェア分野での経験と、機能ウェアのデザインを融合させるクリエイターたちは、今こそ彼らに番が回ってきた、と明らかに感じています。60年代や70年代に生まれ、80年代から90年代にはデザインカルチャーに親しみ、00年代の今、彼らは、個人的で、限定された展望を超越する、普遍的で情熱的なカルチャーを共有しています。イギリスやヨーロッパ、そしてアメリカの豊かで変わり易い背景の中で初期の経験を積んだにも関わらず、彼らは今後の方向性に関して、めったに更なる対話を必要としません。デザインスタジオには、トレンド分析やマーケット戦略に関するお決まりのおしゃべりの代わりに、ミシンがウィーンと回る音や、はさみの刃がぎしぎしいう音、そして更に不思議な実験的な音が響き、作業場、実験室、リサーチセンター、ダイナミックでモダンなデザインアトリエの全てを融合した雰囲気で満たされています。チームは、新しい試みにチャレンジするに、十分に若く、繊細です。そして、若々しい熱狂によって、危険なぐらいの勢いで働く程の若さを持っています。そして、クオリティー、技量、手法への絶え間ないこだわりを保証するのに十分な自信と規律を備えています。そして、最後に、彼らにとって、最も重要なことはディテールです。 “DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRITY” デンハムのデザインは、常に、デニムのもつ基本的な保全性への信頼にあります。彼らは、日常的に行う全ての行動の中に、彼らが次に取るべきアプローチの基となり、ジーンズカルチャーを動かす物の核を見ています。デンハムは、進歩的なデザインへの激しい傾倒と、それと相反する、ジーンズの伝統技術に対する異常なまでの敬意とのバランスの上に成り立っています。ブランド創立者のジェイソン・デンハムの長きにわたる、個人的なクリエイティブな信念と歩むと共に、彼らは、彼らが生み出す全てのジーンズだけでなく、その他の衣類とブランドの全ての側面において、恐れずに試み、開発していくことによって増えていく技能を持つ、経験に富んだ、実用的な“ジーンズメーカー”としての姿勢を証明するよう努力をしています。 “WORSHIP TRADITION.TRADITION TEACHES QUALITY” 伝統の崇拝。伝統が質を教授する。彼らの製作過程は、まず見る事から始まります。デンハムの衣類倉庫にある何百ものヴィンテージ見本を何度見ても見過ぎる事はないと彼らは感じており、その事が、一番すばらしく、一番アイコニックなデニムや、カジュアルで機能性のある衣類の全てのディテールを探求する原動力となっています。彼らは、永久的な耐久性を持つ衣類を生み出し、豊かなスタイル文化の一助となり、そして、進化するのに時には半世紀を要する過程を経て、大変な努力によってようやく増えていく新しい伝統に貢献出来るよう励んでいます。彼らは断固として新しい何かを作ろうと働いているのと同時に、彼らはまた最も強固な基盤に根をはろうと決心しています。古いものをじっくりと見る習慣によって、すばらしい伝統を確立するには何世代もかかり、また、質の良いものを仕上げるのは決して簡単ではないということが分かります。 “DESTROY CONVENTION. CONVENTION PREVENTS PROGRESS”

“しきたりを打ち壊す。しきたりは進化を妨げる。” 一般的な意見とは裏腹に、伝統は盲目的で心ない名声によっ

「DENHAMTHEJEANMAKER.COM シンプルな組織と豊かなコンテンツ」伝統を大切にしつつも慣習にとらわれないDENHAMのウェブサイトは、世界的な雑誌 Creative Reviewでも大々的な特集が組まれる予定となっています。そのウェブサイトを訪れた人は自然と”look close”してしまいます。 DENHAMの製品とそのディテール、そしてそこから得られる真のインスピレーションとブランドの背景に興味を持つすべての人を魅了するそのフォーマットは、友人の本棚のようにベーシックで直観的です。気の向くままに目にとまったストーリーを読んでみて下さい。簡潔なストーリーもあれば、情報がぎっしり詰まったものがあり、テーマによって様々で、一つのスト―リを読み終わったら、また次のストーリーへ進みたくなるでしょう。それは、ユーザーの自由であり、そこにある情報は完全と言っていいほどの透明性を持っています。 DENHAMのウェブサイトには、マーケティングエージェントやコピーライターは関わらず、DENHAMのチームメンバーが直接書き込んでいる情報は、有益で手触り感があり、時にユーザーを驚かせる内容となっています。各コレクションが見やすく、オンラインショップへもアクセスしやすい構造になっていますが、online Denham Garment LibraryやCutter’s Council forumを見れば、DENHAMがただ商業的な目的でウェブサイトを運営していないことがわかるはずです。

HIDDEN TREASURE WINTER (09) COLLECTION Press Release Officially known as DENHAM the Jeanmaker, the brand was launched by Jason Denham in Spring 2009. Design progression and obsessive attention to detail make up the brand’s signature.

SEASONAL PRESS RELEASES, WEBSITE POSTINGS & JOURNAL ENTRIES FROM 2009 -2013 COLLECTIONS

T H E T RU T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S SUMMER (09) COLLECTION Press Release The premier DENHAM collection launching for Spring/Summer 2009, represents a carefully crafted sign of things to come. Responding to the gap in the market, the inaugural collection is aptly titled ’the truth is in the details’, paying homage to DENHAM’s knowledge of vintage product combined with a passion for modern design. “Our customer is not going to settle for less than jaw dropping, mouth watering, gotta have pieces. The only way we know how to make them is to create our own unique balance of deep authenticity, inventive contemporary detailing and a distinctly modern attitude” Jason Denham. The DENHAM label represents Jason’s most fully realized personal vision and demonstrates his modest but sincere resolve to resist compromise, by focusing on introducing a signature range of premium jeans and fits, complimented by a small collection of shirting and accessories. Soon to be introduced in the 1st DENHAM store on the 9 Streets, Amsterdam, as well as key retailers within Holland, Germany and UK. TAILORMADE Quality and careful construction are central to the DENHAM label and the first collection draws inspiration from a coveted personal heirloom: an antique pattern book called ‘THE CUTTERS’, printed in 1910 and sold at the time for 15 shillings. DENHAM’s first models are inspired by and named for traditional techniques discussed in the book, ‘CUTTER’, ‘DART ’, ‘TAPER’ & ‘TAILOR’. The Tailormade techniques inspired remarkable detailing such as: (1) Boxed Button Holes for a clean finish and superlative wear (2) Fully Bound Fly Panels as carefully considered on the inside as on the outside (3) Tailored Chambray Waist with Triple-Chambray and Grosgrain, an artisan technique straight from Savile Row (4) High-Grade Fish bone Pocketing for long-lasting utility and a classic hand feel PROGRESSIVE

Combined with innovative washes featuring hand applied resin treatments, progressive fits and rendered in selvedge and other premium denim qualities, DENHAM’s first collection embodies a new point-of-view in the jeans segment.

JAPANESE FEMALE / JAPAN TEAR & REPAIR & RESIN DARK Due to demand DENHAM introduced the MADE IN JAPAN line for the AW09 females collection. The BOY fit now has TEAR & REPAIR and RESIN DARK finishes. These finishes are hand made in Japan, with Japanese fabric and superior finishing. All the tear and repair is hand made based on archive pieces.

Initial inspiration comes from the authentic design specimens within the label’s unique DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY archive. Rooting the design process in genuine research ensures each new design manifests the most potent intrinsic characteristics of jeans craft and the utility tailoring tradition. The design process itself is motivated by a commitment to rigorously modernizing iconic garment styles as well as a focus on individual details. The aim is to develop relevant contemporary designs with a distinct personality that stand on their own while also representing a modest step forward for jeans craft and the discipline of utility tailoring itself. HIDDEN TREASURE The rugged naval atmosphere and attitude of the collection reflects the vibe of the merchant marines. A cross between the tough but upright posture of WW2 navy epics like ‘Run Silent Run Deep’ or ‘The Enemy Below’ and more romantic high seas adventure can be felt within the hefty fall fabrications and the “Hidden Treasures” buried deep within every style. This seasonal inspiration combined with the influence of specific archives from the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY and animated by the studio’s unique design approach chart the course for DENHAM AW09 and the creation of its “Hidden Treasures”. For DENHAM, the truth is always in the details. MEN

The mens collection combines the substance and texture of the North Sea with the refinement and breeding of the English. MEDIC / 1 KILO MELTON Inspired by a 60 year old Melton wool POW jacket from WWII, effortlessly representing a fusion of rugged “jeans attitude” utility, with a taste of gentleman’s sport-coat formality. DENHAM has upgraded the concept in premium 1 Kilo Melton Wool, fully bound internal seams and fish bone lining. The 1Kilo Melton fabric also merchandises more deeply throughout the range and can be seen on the updated classics SEA DOG and SKIPPER. BOMBER Grafting together the iconic form of a classic MA1 Pilot’s Jacket with detailing from an Intermediate Cold Weather CWU style jacket both found in the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY. DENHAM’s progression of the concept utilizes water shedding waxed nylon and employs genuine Talon zippers throughout. CUSTOM / WORN 5 YEARS The Custom leverages the influence of a blend of three distinct designs. The team deconstructed 1930’s era German field pants from the archive re-imagining them with detailing inspired by a 50’s era US hunting pant and then updated with contemporary technical sportswear features fresh from this millennium. The result is a truly new jean model loaded with history while being completely modern both inside and out. DART / TEAR & REPAIR Introduced as a key style in DENHAM’s premier collection, the DART was inspired by traditional menswear tailoring with details that are quickly becoming hallmarks of the brand. A fully tailored waistband, boxed buttonholes and subtle deployment of darts, all framed within an otherwise classic 5-pocket model give modern shape to a heritage jean. For AW09 the DART is also offered in an artisan Tear-and-Repair finish. GRAIN / 200% INDIGO The GRAIN workshirt represents a subtle reference to “Boro” specimens in the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY. Boro styles are antique indigo-dyed folk garments created and worn by Itinerant workers in Japan. The GRAIN features the same deep natural (double-dipped) indigo, hearty textured attitude and authentic Japanese origin as these pieces, but is rendered in a classic updated work model crafted in a rich two-ply construction. The same classic GRAIN model is alternatively offered in a wash-and-twist shadow Chambray and a French navy Lumber Check.

A HIRO FOR DENHAM’S SAKE DENHAM’s Japanese selvedge denim is crafted in Japan with legendary jeansmaker ‘Hiro’, who is also a sake maker. To celebrate the launch of DENHAM, Hiro has gifted 100 bottles of the finest exclusive DENHAM branded sake. This is the first ever export of his family sake outside of Japan for 7 generations.

WOMEN SERGEANT Inspired by a vintage army greatcoat, the SERGEANT is a dramatic winter style, fully double-breasted in a weather-beating black Teflon denim darted into an updated feminine shape. The model is finished with signature boxed buttonholes, soft corduroy pocket linings and features special side-welts allowing access to pant pockets through a warm brushed wool-blend lining.

DENHAM HOUSE: DESIGN STUDIO, STORE & SHOWROOMS The DENHAM HOUSE has opened its doors on the Prinsengracht 493495 in the desirable “9 streets” area of Amsterdam. An authentic and naturally beautiful space has been carefully refitted to give shape to DENHAM’s design studio, showrooms and 1st store that will open in January.

CORPORAL Crafted from thick 1 Kilo Melton and also darted into feminine silhouette, the CORPORAL is a modified double breasted design with two functional left side button sets lined in Denham’s signature fish bone twill. The CORPORAL’s 1 Kilo Melton merchandises across the women’s collection in the Cadet and Marine styles. CAPE The CAPE is an A-shape 1 piece circular knit cardigan with no construction seams. A blended lambswool/nylon yarn ensures the CAPE is soft enough to wear as a sweater, but substantial enough to wear as a jacket. The style closes with hand-covered oversized stainless snaps hand stitched to the thick, fisherman inspired, knit. MAIDEN Modeled after an antique French over-shirt from the archive, the plissé balloon-sleeved MAIDEN is offered in a fine cotton end-onend quality. A detachable waist cord allows for an array styling options. A back-yoke loop, subtle embroidery, engraved bone buttons and miniature gussets all represent hidden treasures. BOY+ An innovative yoke construction visually drops the posture of the front waistline while retaining a standard wearable rise measurement. Boxed buttonholes, a fully bound fly, double side-cinching and back pocket flaps give the “+” a rugged attitude. The original BOY, like the men’s styles, is for AW09 offered in premium Japanese finishing. INNOVATIONS AT THE LAUNDRY DRIP DRY FINISHING PROCESS The drip dry finish is developed in 2 stages, ‘worn 3 years and worn 5 years’. Two reference samples from the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY were used and formed the basis for replica finishes based on the wear and tear of dry denims naturally worn for 3 and 5 years respectively. The drip dry finishing process is achieved by a combination of hand sanding, resin coating and baking the jeans in an oven at 90 degrees temperature. When the jeans have cooled and the resin is fixed and neutralised, the jeans are dry tumbled with rubber balls to soften the hand feel of each garment.

THE FOREIGN OFFICE SUMMER (10) COLLECTION Press Release DEVELOP UNDERSTANDING BEFORE FORMING OPINIONS Propelled equally by a compulsion to re-invent the iconic khaki chino as well as a springtime impatience for warmer temperatures, the collection takes its primary inspiration from the attitude and atmosphere of The Foreign Office. A strong stylistic nod to the golden era of the “gentleman spy” operating in hot-weather cultures of North Africa, India or Arabia. Think Peter O’Toole in Lawrence of Arabia or Michael Caine in 1968’s Play Dirty. The new season sees a further evolution of DENHAM’s emerging utility-tailoring approach. The gritty craft ethic expected of a hardcore jean maker including evocative new wash, resin and aging recipes is dramatically updated with unexpected soft-tailoring techniques and is then further modernised by an arsenal of distinct and inventive details. Superlative fabrications in tops include one-of-a-kind re-purposed “1st Edition” fabrics as well as contemporary premium Swiss and Japanese weaves. For her the desert theme goes more native with a softly romantic folkinfluence inspiring a sultry new range of tops and blouses along with tough-and-tailored jackets and outright sexy jean silhouettes.

[For her]..The look is tailored over flowing over trim, playing with proportion but keeping it casual. Fabrics animate the attitude and include unique qualities like sheer chambray, Japanese organdie, washed silk and a natural dobby and railway ticking. COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS: MEN MEDIC INTEL SPORTCOAT Inspired by a 1941 POW medic’s sport coat each MEDIC INTEL is made from re-purposed Dutch Army GoreTex bivouacs and each shows the one-of-a-kind markings of its artisan construction. Despite not being a W.L.Gore approved construction (obviously), its untapped seams are the only areas not waterproofed making it more than enough protection for a spring shower. Due the highly unusual use of source-fabric the INTEL is designated as a DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY 1st EDITION and availability will be limited. COMMISSION TRENCH Inspired by the decades-old “stand/fall” khaki Mac the COMMISSION is tailored in state-of-the-art Swiss Schoeller water resistant laminated metal-weave fabric. SCRIMMAGE HOODIE The SCRIMMAGE is inspired equally by the classic Champion heavy sweat and the various “Otaku” brands paying homage to 50’s varsity warm-ups the SCRIMMAGE is made from compact loop-backed Japanese fleece. The same approach informs the women’s version. SUBTERFUGE WORKSHIRT The SUBTERFUGE is inspired by a 40’s era Big Buck work shirt and is rendered in premium chambray with extensive strategic selvedge placement. DARTED TAILORED TEES All the men’s basic and graphic tees are built on a completely new signature DENHAM tee chassis. Darted into a softly tailored anatomy with dart-points compressed for durability and consistency. The design also features a slight drop-tail and arced front hem and is finished with a locker-friendly button-back exterior hanger loop. COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS: WOMEN SPY BORO FIELD JACKET Inspired by a WW2 Sahariana field jacket the SPY ’s “standard issue” is a tightly tailored model constructed in oil cotton. For the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY 1st EDITION variation the style is recreated by hand using antique boro-textiles that have been re-cut and tailored for the purpose. Boro refers to one-of-a-kind folk garments made and worn by itinerant Japanese workers. FATALE TRENCH The FATALE is inspired by a vintage Burberry style, recreated in a contemporary semi-glide fabric representing a functional blend of cotton nylon. WAVELL JACKET The WAVELL is based on a turn-of-the-century fencing doublet. The close-fitting design has been dramatically restyled in a reversible combination of washed vintage military gabardine backed with soft railway ticking. HABB BLOUSE The HABB is based on a classic balloon-sleeve blouse and is offered in both a unique Japanese nylon/linen/rayon organdie fabrication and a silky variation in light nylon/tensile. INNOVATIONS AT THE LAUNDRY Many of the DENHAM Denim developments this season are inspired from the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY collection. DRIP DRY – W9Y (worn 9 Years) Further extending the Drip Dry story from the previous season DENHAM has created the 9 years finish to follow on from 3 and 5 years. This is a more extreme summer version; heavy processed, oven baked and dry finished. ARCHIVE DRY – AD Similar to the Drip Dry process, the Archive Dry process is the next step, the follow on. Super natural finishing with extreme 3D lifelines built into the finishing.

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“Khaki will be King in SS10“ (but not as we know it now). For the SS10 collection DENHAM will present a big story in Khakis, not the same old stuff that you have seen before. DENHAM presents new invention

W H A R F W O R K S - T H E D O C K YA R D S WINTER (10) COLLECTION Press Release PRACTICAL UTILIT Y / ACCIDENTAL STYLING This season, the collection is inspired by the uncompromising practical utility of the journeyman dockworker. Working out of Rotterdam harbour, the V.O.C and hailing from cities with historic shipping ports such as the UK and the US [illustrated by timeless images of Marlon Brando’s Terry Mallow], their unique pragmatic approach to layering unique mixes of texture launched the concept this Winter. The idea of more romantic textiles and trim elements arriving from exotic ports led to the employment of broderie Anglaise, mini all-over prints and silk jersey in the AW10 women’s collection. MIX OF COLOUR-TEXTURE CONTRADICTION This seasonal inspiration combined with archives from the Denham Garment Library and energized by the label’s unique design approach resulted in a restrained mix of colour - a colourcard that could be described as “black-and-bruised” - contrasted with the stacking of a wide variety of textures. The result is the tonal blending of diverse textures within single garments with garment-dye helping to sooth the visual effect. The biting cold of the dockyards also inspired new layering concepts including modular garment systems, 2-in-1 designs as well as the creation of archetypal outerlayer models disguised in midlayer fabrications. THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS

Joining signature Denham details like the deployment of boxed button-holes in nontraditional positions, the unique Cable Connection, Dart-Point Compression and Leather Saddles, Denham introduces new conventionchallenging inventions, like fully removable / rotatable zipper units and new reverseriveted tape-through buttons. COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS: START AND FINISH WITH QUALITY As always the team’s commitment is to quality first-and-foremost. Pima cotton upgrades both Japanese denim and the tee-shirt jersey fabrications, British Millerain supplies the trenchcoat fabric, nylon webbings are the same high-grade as found on automotive seatbelts, Talon supplies zippers and Primaloft supplies insulation and genuine Dutch marine surplus supplies recut poncho and heav y wool blanket qualities. COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS: MALE THE LINER The Liner’s unique approach to modularity is at the heart of the dockworker’s practical layering style. The reversible design was inspired by a 1950’s hunting blouson. The 9-pocket outer construction derives directly from a WW2 USAF C-I Pilot’s Emergency Vest. A removable lace-on zipper unit used to convert standard Corcoran type combat boots to a rapid-response zip-on/off closure was used as the basis for the Liner’s removable/rotatable zipper unit. This allows the fully reversible stand-alone style to also button-in as a modular insulation within other styles of the AW10 collection. THE LONGSHORE The Longshore is an update to Denham’s iconic Sea Dog peacoat from AW09 and represents the most ubiquitous style for wharf-workers from the golden era of the longshoreman’s unions. The convention of a traditional pea coat is destroyed in order to create something new via the virtual “grafting” of sleeve-architecture based on several motorcycle jacket specimens from the Denham archive. The same re-cut fabrication of the Longshore DGL can be seen in the DGL edition of the women’s Jocko and the removable liner of the women’s Ferry parka. THE DUT Y WP The Duty is based partly on the original M65 military field coat, but the finesse of the pocket-shapes and the visual minimization of the lower half of the garment also takes inspiration from a British paratrooper smock from WW2. The Duty’s waterproof/ breathable black herringbone exterior with “milk-foam” backing is 5x more waterproof than required to receive a “waterproof” rating while retaining breath-ability. The same garment architecture is offered in a much burlier variation in the DUTY WOOL style featuring embroidered ring-and-eye buttons and panel-printed herringbone lining. MEDIC UNION The Medic Union is the 3rd iteration of the classic men’s sportcoat, following-on from the original Medic (based on a WW2 P.O.W. Medic’s coat) through spring’s Medic Intel and now manifested as the Medic Union. The suffix “union” comes from the classic labourer’s Donkey Jacket which formed the primary inspiration for the new version. COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS: FEMALE JOCKO The JOCKO is inspired by an East German “Troop Testing” Leather Bomber. The style is modernized by expanding the collar and action back and tightly tailoring the shape. For the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY EDITION the style is recreated by using re-cut rubberized marine poncho canvas in combination with re-cut army blankets. GILETTE The GILETTE’s front closure and collar are inspired by the habit of wearing a smoking jacket with a waiscoat underneath. By making the bottom-curve organic and lengthening the front, this style gets a contemporary look. V.O.C. The V.O.C. is a chunky hand knitted cardigan. The collar is fabricated in a heav y reversed knit, while the body shows a traditional knit, finished with a 1 x 1 knitted placket. A mini scissor all-over print on the inside of the placket and the big press buttons give the style a soft contradiction.

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BLONDIN A cross between the Spy and Corporal styles of SS10, the Blondin is styled around a signature double-flapped main closure that runs in a subtle s-curve from the hem to the collar-stand. The approach combines traditional snaps alongside ring & eye buttons with a line that is slightly off-centre like motorcycle jacket or military dress tunic.

JAPAN TEXTILES “OBSESSIVE / INFATUATED / IDIOSYNCRATIC & DETERMINED” are all words that can be used to describe the Japanese design culture. Each characteristic inspires the DENHAM team’s respect and they see the particular mix of values as representing something uniquely Japanese. Ever since Jason Denham’s first visit to Japan he has been fascinated by the culture and obsessive focus demonstrated by Japanese artisans, designers, producers and even by Japanese consumers. They seem to instinctively recognize the best in American, British and European culture. They absorb a nearly direct influence from each except that they intensify the quality, craftsmanship and detailing beyond even the original. In attempting to copy they very often improve.

In the case of denim the Japanese had become infatuated with the iconic American ideals of freedom, rebellion and a fearless pioneering spirit. All of these were reflected in the classic American 5-pocket blue jean of cowboys, rock-stars and Hollywood rebels. In the late 60’s the big American weaving mills switched from narrow loom 29” to 55” to efficient modern weaving machines. All original US weaving machines were quickly snapped up by the Japanese and obsessive, infatuated, idiosyncratic denim was born. The Japanese have an incredible passion for detail.

The maturity of a Jean is observed by its patina, spots, stains, repairs, rips and moustaches. These things define the milestones in the life of a jean; A live abstract work of art that maps out our everyday experiences. Virgin Denim is UNSPOILED, CLEAN no treatments. Virgin Denim concept is born out of authentic, OTAKU, Americana Jeans. 5 pockets in the simple form, cut from narrow loom Japanese & Italian selvedge cloth. Virgin Denim is a MODERN denim concept. The fits are HYBRID modern tailored 5 pockets jeans with signature DENHAM details. Virgin Denim branding is WHITE, fresh, pure. The leathers are WHITE Virgin cowhide with under stitched White Tyvek care instructions Virgin Denim is also available in 11oz (Teflon coated) grey and black denim. Virgin Denim is for both Male & Female. The virgin concept is also available in denim shirts and tees.

They took the original denim process but made it better than ever before. They combined traditional Western qualities like the best yarns, the most rigorous standards for dyeing and weaving and an exacting approach to construction with the rich traditions of their own local Japanese culture including a profound nearly spiritual commitment to craftsmanship, an intuitive understanding of the “beauty of imperfection” and their own ancient indigo dyeing processes. They fused all of this together with discipline and determination to create a uniquely Japanese strain of timeless and tough artisan jeans, which also managed to express new levels of beauty and world-class creativity. 100% Japanese Textile, 100% Japanese Laundry. One of the specialized finishes in the denim range is the KOUJI. For both genders, this jean represents true artisan denim with a hand painted finish. It’s the one off Japanese for ladies. THE CLEAN JAPAN BLAST SELVEDGE has been built on the traditional, tough and heavy weight masculine Japanese cloth. Usage of silicone softener creates a more natural and worn in effect. ITALY LAUNDRY For DENHAM, Italy’s progressive denim washhouses inspire as much reverence as the country’s legendary cuisine, iconic sportscars and master oil painters. 45 years ago Martelli was founded in Bologna. Martelli is a specialist dye house whose artisans quickly became known as “the Wizards of Colours”. In 1986 Martelli acquired a facility in Vedelago, which became the undisputed home of jean innovation. The first client in Martelli’s Vedelago operations was a new label called GOLDIE ITALIA from jeans legend, Adriano Goldschmied and his GENIUS TROUPE studio. Together, Adriano and Martelli reinvented the denim business. They laid the groundwork for a whole new generation of innovative denim craft. It fused the authenticity of Americana workwear with the excitement of European fashion and the world of denim would never be the same again. DENHAM’s new finishes for Autumn Winter 2010 represent a continuation of this great tradition utilizing unique dyeing process, new weaving approaches and new laundry “recipes” which ultimately allow for a completely new range of final wear patterns which can be experienced through both the aesthetic and hand feel of the final product. MADE IN HOOGLAND SELVEDGE. One of the team’s co-conspirators and steadfast ally of the DENHAM label hails from the ‘highlands’ of the Netherlands and has been wearing his jean while driving his John Dear, playing hide & seek with his girls, milking his cows and driving to and from his destination denim retail business. The final effect; patched up knees, natural wear…an even dirty (at least never-too-clean) and an otherwise gorgeous and utterly unique patina. This mix of effects has been recreated on Italy’s finest 14OZ selvedge denim in a premium homage to the Hoogland original. WORN 10 YEARS SELVEDGE. The new finish was inspired by a 10 year old jean from the Denham Garment Library. The particular specimen used for the finish demonstrated a true eye for detail in its subtle hand stitched repair work which has also been reproduced in the W10Y finish. INDIGO COLOURS DENHAM introduces a range of specialized indigo colours. The starting point of a classic blue jean is an ecru colour weft and an indigo colour warp. This basic ingredient can be extended by many facets to create wear patterns that are normally obtained through a long period of wearing unwashed VIRGIN denim. To create specialist finishes you not only make differentiations in the dye colours of the yarns in order to create different tones of indigo, but you also create different finishing processes. The different tones of indigo are dependent on the amount of number of times the yarns go into the indigo dye. The more dips, the darker the indigo colour. A jean becomes unique through both the colour and the laundry processing. The colour pallet of blues is built on five different indigo colours and five different laundry processes. The pallet is introduced with BLUE FADE; a classic blue denim based on a true blue indigo colour; indigo warp, ecru weft. The starting point for the grey, SMOKED BLUE has been the same as with a classic blue jean. To create the smoked look, a grey dye has gone on top of the indigo colour. During the finishing process the grey colour comes out of the yarn, extending its smoked look on the ecru weft yarn, creating the faded smoked look. To create the finish ANTIQUE a pigment coating is placed on top of the garment, through which an antique wearing pattern is created. The BLUE BLACK features localized areas of black through the use of an oil finish. Following the WORN 9 YEARS recipe of the Spring Summer collection, the WORN 9 YEARS 2 is created using a full black pigment coating on the fabric as a starting point for getting the ingredients of the recipe in. This makes the finish much darker and softens the more outstanding areas in the Spring Summer wash. VIRGIN - UNSPOILED DENIM FOR FRESHNESS VIRGIN - WEAR YOUR PERSONALITY ON YOUR JEANS “The more you wear them the better they get” Your jeans becomes a part of you, they take your shape and show your personality. Your jeans tell a story.....in which pocket you place your wallet, your mobile phone and, if god has been kind, which “side” you dress.

BLACK & BRUISED Consistent with the colourcard of the Autumn Winter collection ‘Black & Bruised’ and the current trend in the market, Denham Denim brings a range of Blacks. BLACK ‘Black &…’ is covered through the clean, purist VIRGIN BLACKS. Starting with the lighter shade black, the range brings Teflon coated, 11OZ ring spun yarn died denim in Grey and Black. Both in the most purist form, as both warp and weft have been died in pure colours grey for the Grey Teflon and black for the Black Teflon, where normally a jean consists of a combination of an ecru died weft and a blue died warp. The pure colour is protected by a Teflon coating, which makes the fabric easier to clean in line with the clean look a VIRGIN denim brings. It’s purist, clean and never been touched. To fit the more dressy look of black, both VIRGIN BLACKS have been executed in the slimmest models for both male and female. Complementing the VIRGIN denims in the Blacks range is the black selvedge chino. & BRUISED ‘…&Bruised’ highlights the distressed faded and washed out blacks in the DENHAM range. These more distressed blacks fit the look of the more looser, relaxed models. The washed out BLACK FADE is executed in the female harem silhouette HARISSA and brings a more detailed look in the CUTTER+ men’s fit. The vintage based, more outspoken PAINTERS BLACK gives a distressed look in the GRADE and TAPER 5. For ladies the BLACKS also show a more tailored look in the wool suiting Harissa and a relaxed look in the washed out black jogger sweat GENIE.

H AVA N A M A K E S H I F T

COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS : MEN

SUMMER (11) COLLECTION Press Release HAVANA MAKESHIFT - ATTITUDE Cuba’s particular mix of cowboy culture, frozen-in-time mid-century car club style and once elegant, now threadbare but still dignified European finesse, all framed within a gritty makeshift military utility, has proven a near bottomless source of inspiration for Spring Summer 2011. The unpretentious mixing of influences formed a platform for the overall collection as well individual pieces. FADED & UNPRETENTIOUS COLOURS Colours are faded and unpretentious creating a spectrum running from sticky cigar-tobacco brown through a range of more leafy military greens and on through light blues into a little bit of bleached pink. But as will perhaps always be the case with Denham, the neutrals are the steadfast heroes. Garment dyed blacks, grey chambrays, faded khaki and pale ecru all used in varying textures to create the season’s makeshift approach to summer richness. FABRIC Colour is never more important than quality and the attitude and atmosphere of Summer 2011 is given tangible form through the fabrics themselves. The arsenal includes; a three-season wax stuffed canvas from legendary producer British Millerain, the return of waterproof/breathable memory/metal weave produced under license from Schoeller of Switzerland, the return of a menswear black herringbone laminated to a waterproof/breathable milkfoam backing, a classic military twill cranked-up with a coating of rugged polyurethane, Cuba-style military airtex, a new variation on Denham’s super-compact cotton now with a dry-rumple finish, chambray shirting with finishes from crispy to extra crispy, pure linen, pima jersey, vented pique and the latest exercise in Denham’s RECUT story this time reanimating deadstock French mattress linen together with laundry-bag damask.

SOCIAL: A MOTORCYCLE DIARY A men’s field jacket mixing a rustic agricultural attitude with detailing from WW2 South Pacific military designs and the silhouette of a classic motorcycle touring jacket. OPERATIVO: FRANCO CUBAN RELATIONS A featherweight bomber jacket modeled partly on the iconic blue-leather French Airforce design popular in the 1980’s. The ovular zippered sleeve pocket, double vertical interior slash pockets and a show-and-conceal breast pocket insignia system all take cues from the original. But rendered in Schoeller’s metal memory waterproof/breathable shell fabric the impression is equal parts 1950’s car-club jacket. COURIER: NAVY FISHERMAN A hooded shell jacket in polyurethane painted military twill that borrows a construction featuring outstitched seams along the shoulder mantel seam-sealed with taping on the outside with traditional interior seam taping in the body. RECUT: OUR MAN IN HAVANA A WW2 “Demob” jacket and engineer’s waistcoat acquired for the Denham Garment Library at Spitalfields formed the classic inspiration for the new Medic Nationale and the Waist. Crafted from pure black linen in the main collection, this sportcoat and waistcoat are also built from deadstock French mattress linen as recut “DGL” editions. –Continuing a tradition that in just 3 seasons has included the utilization of vintage Japanese boro fabrics, gore-tex bivouacs, and army poncho mackintosh. PLAIN: TAKING THE PRESS OUT OF OPRESSION. For some a clean, fresh, “ripe” and rumpled mens shirt can evoke the same wordless loyalty as the ubiquitous tee-shirt. The Plain’s design could hardly be anymore plain but every inch has been orchestrated to harmonize with an outlook that appears to have been laundered to within an inch of its life. Self bias edgings, empty collar-stay channels and a 7-point breast pocket come to life in the new “Dry Rumple” finish. COLLECTION HIGHLIGHTS : WOMEN

TEXTURE: MEN The fabric approach aims to live up to a commitment of worshipping workwear tradition while destroying worn-out conventions. The resulting focus on a new type of Utility Tailoring naturally leads to new fabric combinations which retain the authentic rugged character of heritage fabric with fearlessly modern qualities. From the deep history of British Milerain’s wax-stuffed cotton canvas to the clean modernity of waterproof herringbone and memory poplin the jacket category establishes the underlying standard. The spirit of utility tailoring fabrication carries over to all the woven, knit and jersey styles with an overall offering that includes; Wax-Stuffed Cotton Canvas, Ceramic Backed Coated Twill, WP Herringbone and Memory Poplin, Super compact Rumple Shirting, Seersucker, Italian Laundered Denim, Crispy Chambray, Doby-Damask, Structured Ticking, Rhymthic Ribbing, Double Cotton Jersey, Knitted Cotton Cashmere, Pima Single Jersey, Recut Linen, Recut Tent Canvas and Gloss-on-Matte Panel Print.

SPY+: HALF GIRL MUSKETEER / HALF MOTORCYCLE CHICK A tough and sexy update on the SPY SS10 jacket influenced in equal parts by a 1950’s fencing doublet and a 1960’s racer-type motorcycle jacket from the Denham Garment Library. Oil cotton in 2 different weights reduce heat and weight close to the body but maintain a cool toughness through the shoulders and outer sections. CHE: MILITARY TAILORED FIELD JACKET A women’s field jacket mixing a rustic country attitude with detailing from a WW2 British Army tunic dramatically adjusted to produce a completely feminine silhouette. RUMBA: UNDERSHIRT BECOMES LITTLE OUTERSHIRT A Dutch men’s undershirt inspired top with a cute “little” fit.

TEXTURE: WOMEN An ongoing focus on deep quality and a more timeless approach to style shifts focus from excessive employment of “fashion” colour trends to the more substantial character of the fabric textures themselves. For spring the objective is to create a rich texture variety while keeping everything light and breezy. Creamy softtouch jerseys and fine knits combine effortlessly with compact nearly transparent woven blends featuring just the right amount of body and crispness and ripe worn-in country gingham complete with homerepair details introduce further lightweight layering options. The range includes; Open Knit, Pointelle Soft Knit, Faded Sunrise Sweat, Faded Mix Check, Special Rib, Home Repair Gingham, Recut Linen, Memory Poplin, Sheer Jersey, Fine Silk Ticking and Swedish Linen.

BUENA: VERSATILE MINI JACKET WITH ATTITUDE - Inspired partly by a women’s cropped peasant frock-coat from Russia from the Denham Garment Library. A museum-grade piece clearly intended for hard everyday wear but designed with stunning stylistic touches including a fantastic box pleated back peplum. The bold double-breasted construction of a 1970’s band jacket provided inspiration for the inventive front treatment. But these concepts from these two unusual inspirations underwent a complete transformation to create a modern new wardrobe staple for women.

RE-CUT STORY: 30 YEARS VINTAGE CHINO

1st EDITION Limited Edition 150pcs per each model / washing. These Jeans took 6 months to create and were specially hand made 100% in Japan. These Jeans are exclusive to COLETTE (PARIS) – PRESENT (LONDON) – 14oz (BERLIN) – GERARDS LOFT (FLORENCE) – ISETAN (TOKYO) and the DENHAM stores in Amsterdam and TOKYO.

It could be argued that modern jeans culture began when workwear tailors in the American West first cut a pair of prospector pants from rugged tent fabric. The freshest instalment in Denham’s ongoing commitment to recut fabrications sees history repeat itself with an utterly contemporary outcome. Starting with a beautifully made pair rainproof 1950’s workwear chinos from the long defunct “Mohawk” brand in the Denham Garment Library. The new men’s Mohawk style pays homage to the original through the use of Talon hardware, cat-eye suspender buttons and a generally excruciating attention to assembly detail. But these new chinos take those ideas fully into the present day adding a tailored waistband, full front leg facings, bound fly constructions, darted articulation and a host of other Denham signatures. The recut fabrication employs washed Dutch Army Tents disassembled and recrafted into the main fabric, damask laundry bags reworked into soft waistband facings and Dutch and German Army camouflage tarps transformed into pocket-bags. COLLUSION WITH A CHILD OF THE JAGO DENHAM’s second collusion again focuses on product that stretches the label’s central design concept slightly beyond its natural boundaries. This time DENHAM’s collaborators are the crew from “A Child of the Jago” in London. While Jago’s purist style ethic and uncompromising dandypunk posture stand outside DENHAM’s traditional realm, their passion for product and shared English cultural pedigree made them the perfect catalyst for the new collusion. DENHAM’s new Mohawk pant is being made using Jago’s signature deadstock British yard-goods, and Jago’s signature Apache pant has been re-imagined in DENHAM’s premium Japanese denim and selvedge chino qualities. These two cross-bred models are joined by a commemorative “Graft” tee shirt to complete the grafted-together capsule and will be available in limited quantities. HOUSE GUEST ARTIST Each season DENHAM will present 1 guest artist making graphic prints on tees and scarves. This first will be Alljan Moehamad; Artist and photographer. Alljan is a local Dutch talent who is renowned for his hand drawn skull drawings in ink pen. Alljan has the rare ‘freehand’ talent of putting his pen on the paper and not taking it off until it is finished. Together DENHAM have created a collection of tees with Alljan’s artworks. Look out for the movie of Alljan drawing on the Denham website. Coming soon. NEWS In 2010 DENHAM houses will open in TOKYO, LONDON, PARIS and DÜSSELDORF, Tokyo being the 1st scheduled to open on JUNE 4. The DENHAM houses will tell the full story of the brand combining store / showrooms / PR / operations and logistics. TOKYO is considered to be the denim capital of the world. The DENHAM TOKYO store is positioned in the denim heart of the city – DAIKANYAMA.

DENIM Stories

LAUNDRY BOX Many of the washes and finishes this season come from the DENHAM ARCHIVE GARMENT LIBRARY, GLORY DENHAM is based on a 1992 OLD GLORY jean and replicates the tears and patch repairs. The indigo colour palette is a fresh mix of red and grey cast denims in sophisticated specialist finishes. VIRGIN The highlight of the Virgin story this season is a special developed material PAPER DENIM, this is 50% Paper and 50% indigo cotton. The paper creates a high luster effect and speeds up the wearing patina. This jean is gift wrapped in a replica US army KIT / LAUNDRY bag complete with size 10 original Talon Zipper and SOAP BAR. The soap is made from pure enzymes, no chemicals or perfumes. You are advised to wear the jean for 1 year then hand wash with a bar of DENHAM PURE HAND SOAP. RE-CUT MOHAWK The first ever jeans were made from tent material, we just did the same thing only we made replica MID CENTURY CHINOS out of Dutch army tents. They comes complete with a repair kit otherwise known as a “house wife” (named by the US marines). The material is 30 years old, The inspiration is 60 years old and the design is today. Worship tradition and destroy convention” FLEX POWDER

Flex Powder Denim is a revolution in textile technology created by the Japanese. This special spinning technique is the softest most incredible denim ever created for women. Touching is believing.

A SHORT STORY by JASON DENHAM In December 2009. I fly from Tokyo to Hiroshima. The landscape is snow crisp white and beautiful. The drive from the airport to the sewing factory is 1hr 30 mins of idyllic picturesque landscape. Breathtaking stuff, everything in Japan has an edge of beauty. Arriving in the sewing factory I am greeted with “ Jason San – Take off your shoes” Factories in my experience are not normally the casual, kick off your shoes kinda places. This factory was different. A clean factory like you never saw before. So clean you could eat your lunch from the floor! The factory personifies ‘ DENHAM ’ philosophy, “ WORSHIP TRADITION & DESTROY CONVENTION “ – A catalogue of work denim models that explain the fits from 1940’s to the present day. This combined with original UNION SPECIAL machines and high tech modern day equipment. Next stop……..the washing laundry.

“I arrive to the greeting “Jason San – take off your shoes” normally washing houses are notorious for having floors covered in chemical agents, dyestuffs and bleaches. Not this one.” Instead I was greeted by a family of artists hand painting the life lines and aging process on to the jeans. Together we formulated recipes based on DENHAM garment Library pieces. ‘ DUMP STORE DENIM ‘, ‘ RUBBER RESIN DENIM‘, ‘ THREAD BARE DENIM ‘ and ‘ EMBROIDERY REPAIR DENIM ‘to name but a few. These denim pieces are real replica finishes based on narrow loom red selvedge denim. These are the ‘ mouth watering ‘, ‘ must have ‘ jeans of the season. ITALY LAUNDRY : DIGGING IN OUR ARCHIVES This season DENHAM dug deeper in to their archives and created a handful of beautiful replica finishes. “ GLORY DENHAM “ is a tribute to OLD GLORY from 1992. One of their (older) customers who brought his OLD GLORY Jeans from 18 years ago and which he had lived in for years. In fact he had even decorated in it, repaired his car in it and lay a floor in it. All these signs were visible by the patched up knee and paint splatters. “STITCHED UP” is another wash developed from DENHAM’s archives. A replica of a vintage big E which has been torn and repaired again and again and again. Its thread bare worn out and perfect replica of the original. “VIRGIN” UNSPOILED DENIM FOR FRESHNESS The DENHAM dry VIRGIN PURE, UNTOUCHED, UNSPOILED denim story will continue for S11. The weights of the denim’s are 11 – 12 – 13 ounces and the colours are less intense than winter 10. Now the shades have shifted to lighter greys, clay indigo, pure slub textured indigo and the monotones grey, black and white with TEFLON finishes. The VIRGIN story also includes Selvedge Chino twill and DRIP DRY aging process – No WATER ADDED. VIRGIN STORY S11 – TALKING POINT, “ VIRGIN PAPER SELVEDGE” This is the must have VIRGIN Jean of the season. 100% MADE IN JAPAN - This denim cloth is made with recycled 50% Japanese PAPER PULP and 50% Indigo cotton. WHY ? – Because the paper yarns create a very soft touch and the wearing in effect is much faster than 100% cotton. This Jean is delivered in a Remake 14oz Denim Replica Laundry bag complete with the ORIGINAL TALON ZIPPER. In order to treat this Jean with the love it deserves we are delivering every piece with its own bar of CATHARTIC SOAP. Made with Pure natural enzymes. We suggest that you hand wash , as rarely and as hygienically possible (see web movie). The Model is GRADE SLIM (Otaku 5 pocket tailor made construction). FLEX POWDER DENIM is a new technology in fibre spinning. This technique creates the softest finest denim ever made. The yarns are not pulled in the continuous filament method of regular yarns, instead they are softened and twisted before weaving. The result is the softest hand feel of jeans ever made. The performance is exactly the same as your regular Jeans. POWERED BY RIN TANAKA DENHAM SS11 MEN’S PHOTOGRAPHY & DGL ARCHIVE IMAGES Since the publication of his first seminal books on the history of the motorcycle jacket through each subsequent issue of his own My Freedamn book series, Rin Tanaka’s personal dedication to photoarchiving vintage garments has stood head and shoulders above anybody else. The passionate approach to preserving garment history manifested by these books was one of the key inspirations for the Denham team to even conceive of creating a Denham Garment Library of their own. For DENHAM, Rin Tanaka has always represented the pinnacle of responsible garment archiving. So it could be considered a little crazy that it took the team 4 full seasons to work up the courage to ask Tanaka-San himself to lend his technical prowess and boundless energy to the task of documenting some of the label’s own garment archives as well as completely new Denham garment prototypes designed as part of the brand’s Spring 2011 collection. To the team’s tremendous excitement Rin said “yes”. The resulting images are the pride of the team at Denham and the technical dexterity and creative sensitivity reflected in each of Rin’s photographs for Denham are already inspiring the team to seek to continue to increase the quality of their own efforts in documentation. Denham is very proud to be working directly with Rin Tanaka, and for both Rin and Denham; The Truth is in the Details.

JAPAN TEXTILES : 1st EDITION – In July DENHAM will deliver a new collection called 1st EDITION. This will be exclusive for 1 store per country. The 1st Edition is a line of 100% hand made Japanese denims (mens and ladies) stockists will include COLETTE, (PARIS) / PRESENT (LONDON) / ISETAN (TOKYO) / 14oz (BERLIN) MADE IN JAPAN WITH 100% ARTISTRY, LOVE PASSION & NO SHOES. A journey in to Japan. We all know that ‘Japanese denim’ is special and that Japanese denim is the signature of all premium denim brands. The thing is, “ its what you do with it that makes the difference”. That’s why this season Jason travelled deeper into the heart of the Japanese denim culture and discovered new washing houses that really love what they do.

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G R A F M E E T S N AU T I LUS

INDO-INDIGO

WINTER (11) COLLECTION

SUMMER (12) COLLECTION

Press Release

WINTER (11) INSPIRATION This season the imaginations of the DENHAM design crew were captured by a story of what might-havebeen. As the 1920’s drew to a close, the captain of German Zeppelin and the commander of an Australian submarine hatched a plot to navigate their futuristic vessels across the planet to a rendezvous point at the centre of the Arctic Circle. The outbreak of WW2 prevented this expedition from taking place, so Denham started with the question; “what if it had….?”

INDO-INDIGO Within the loosely associated Indochinese regions of Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, Northern China and Vietnam, the design team at Denham found a potent source of inspiration for their approach to Spring 2012. The area’s ancient indigenous cultures have produced Centuries of indigo-soaked tribal workwear, while the French and American conflicts in the region have raised the profile of some of the most iconic military designs of the modern era. These two powerful influences act as bookends for Denham’s S12 collection.

RESTRAINED COLOURS

FABRIC AND TEXTURE For S12, the focal point for fabric and texture relates to reducing overall weight. Lightweight for a brand with a fetish for workwear can be tricky, so the test was to worship the workwear tradition while destroying any convention that would weigh-down the team’s progress towards a truly Spring sensibility.

As in previous seasons Denham’s use of colour is highly restrained favouring a greater emphasis on touch, texture and handle. The focused colour card is based on indigo and North Sea blues, balanced against the season’s neutral core of black, iron-grey and concrete. Accented with tartans in red, brick and blue. FABRIC The history of submarine and Zeppelin garments share the influence of early motoring gear, combining oiled, waxed and tar-type coatings. This tradition is continued within the collection of rich leather coated denim, British Millerain waxed fabric, vinylized cotton duck which play against pre-denim workwear staples like Fox Brothers wool, workwear sateen, Japanese fish bone and heav y RE-CUT tarpaulin. The interpretation for women draws on the natural charisma and undeniable modernity of early female aeronauts as well as the soft and lustrous atmosphere of the roaring 20’s in fabrics like silk ticking and Japanese twill, cashmere wool blend woven’s, Japanese woodblock panel-prints, silk and viscose jersey blends in varied weights, washed leather and the RE-CUT program which features the use of all-silk WW2 cargo parachutes dyed deep black and stitched into a modern dotman sleeve blousson... KNITWEAR Collections for both men and women forge new ground in the knitwear category. Highlights include thick natural new wool and dry cotton qualities for men as well as smooth 100% silk and lush merino cashmere blends for women exclusively.

COLOURS: INDIGO & GREEN LIFTED WITH CONTEMPORARY TINTS The new collection explores a full compliment of tonal interpretation under the indigo umbrella. Alongside the indigo indulgence, the greens of the Indochinese landscape and the olive drabs of the Vietnam era are central to the colour card. Complemented further by khaki and fresh modern tints like pale sky blue, bleached neutrals and lotus pink for women, the atmosphere is fully transported to the present day. Colour also plays a big role in this season’s denim range. LIGHTWEIGHT FOR MEN For men, lightweight fabrics have become even lighter with 5oz.denim twill constructions and chambray, featherweight summer-shirting and cool supple summer waffles being added to the line. Even jackets feature new ultra-light materials like the new paper-touch waxed cotton-nylon blend. Comfort has been increased with the addition of a touch of stretch in men’s tailored styles as well as innovative bias cutting of classic twills creating mechanical stretch for an easier fit. WEIGHTLESS FOR WOMEN For women, the fabrics celebrate the basic ideas of Float, Drape and Shape. Natural femininity is created using a range of fabrications; from a draped giant loop knit with a thick yarn quality to a more floating soft sheer ripstop; all enhancing these basic principles. Soft and sultry silk blends in soft satin weaves and crepes give shape to tailored jackets with a laid-back sophistication while 4oz. denim brings the spring denim story to life. DENIM: OTAKU - ‘THE PASSIONATE OBSESSIVE FOR MEN’ After launching the 1st EDITION Line for Autumn Winter 2010 with the Japan Dump Store finish in COLETTE [Paris], PRESENT [London] and the Denham Stores, it continues to evolve in a cycle of denims aiming for the highest standard of craftsmanship. The 1st EDITION line is a Limited Edition that will be presented exclusively in highly selected stores already 6 months before it will be included in the running collection.

Surrender, and toy designs from Medicom are among the artefacts that serve as silent role-models for their own work.

So, when fate brought the Denham team face-to-face with James Lavelle it sparked a very particular type of new energy in the studio. At the time of their first meeting, Denham’s S12 collection was just getting underway with thematic atmosphere borrowed from Indochina. Tribal indigo workwear from the hill-tribes of the region and iconic military garment design from the Indochine and Vietnam conflicts were key parts of the team’s research. A Denham interpretation of the classic M65 Fishtail Parka Shell was slated to be one of the new collection’s flagships. After meeting Lavelle, the team was inspired to develop a special edition of their new Advisor Parka. They brought together the most progressive materials including an indigo-rubberized nylon from Italy’s famous Limonta mill. They created a hand-painted tiger-stripe camouflage and hid mirror-written lyrical references to Lavelle’s song; The Answer and they printed it on a rich cotton/viscose blend lining. The mirror writing in the camo graphic is based on propaganda texts on floral printed dresses during the British war. They integrated a thick piece-dyed sweatshirt hood using a construction borrowed from the Canadian army and they attached it with rugged Talon hardware. They worked with upcoming audio brand Frends – “because there is no I in frends” - to style a complimenting variation of the company’s soon-to-be-released Frends Light Headphone which will be offered with the parka. This ‘frendly cooperation’ marks the maiden-voyage for the new Light model with its innovative memory foam ear cushions and the highest audio fidelity available on the headphone of this size. This special edition of the Denham Advisor Parka now sits alongside the label’s mainline version of the same model constructed in pigmentprinted black waxed nylon with a seersucker lining.

This season’s 1st EDITION entails 2 new models that have been developed within the OTAKU spirit. Every detail of the jean is considered and both models are constructed in the most distinguished way possible. The British and the Japanese exemplify this tradition that is associated with collecting and obsessing. CROSSBACK The first silhouette, is a carrot fit, 5 pocket jean with double cinch ‘cross back’ construction, inspired by traditional dungarees cross back strap design. The fly is a single piece construction inspired by tailored workwear: pre denim circa 1840.

WELCOME TO DENHAM WOMENS WINTER (11) COLLECTION L.O.C.K. Release SEPT. 2009

The fundamental Denham design process represents the ambition to find the most remarkable detailing and humbling craftsmanship within heritage denim, workwear and utility clothing and push them forward within utterly contemporary garment designs. While there’s some truth in the notion that these design traditions are historically male-dominated, there has also been a century’s worth of design emancipation utterly transforming the rugged roots of workwear into a new school of style with an uncompromising focus on women. It may have started with pioneers like Iris Apfel risking ridicule, while hunting down extra-small (even children-sized) jeans in the 1940’s hell-bent on reworking them into exciting expressions of a confident but still mysterious new feminine ideal. It evolved, refined and deepened through the decades since then, resulting in iconic new style attitudes without a hint of gruff masculinity. In the hands of Marilyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, Loretta Lynn, Tanya Tucker, Michelle Phillips, Grace Slick, Marianne Faithfull, Patti Smith, Chrissie Hynde, Sienna Miller and Kate Moss... The list of powerful personalities is unending and the role they’ve played in fully coopting the tradition is undeniable. For a long time now, clothing with modest workwear origins have been entirely re-cultivated by women for women. The design team at Denham is as inspired by this aspect of their culture as they are by any other characteristic of their craft. They recognize the sensual nuances and feminine subtleties which have been expressed over the years and they don’t presume that you can turn a jean into a women’s jean my pushing it through the simplistic pigeon-holes of merely adding a slathering of “shine”, or sexing them up by stretching them tight. Nor do they assume you can take a 2-dimensional approach to converting any other item in a women’s wardrobe. The goal they have set themselves is to build a dedicated collection for women that resist either of the obvious compromises. - They’re not willing to compromise any aspect of a fully feminine point-of-view; shape first and foremost. - They’re not willing to compromise any of the fundamental values that drive the original Denham design ethic, namely an exacting approach to detail, craftsmanship and the substance that reflects authentic jeans-culture and workwear heritage.

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They want Denham women’s customers to have their cake, and to eat it too. They see her as natural, relaxed and loaded with effortless sex appeal. A healthy glow, a no fuss attitude and an unpretentious brand of cool. The Denham women’s collection allows her a nearly endless mix of corsetry tailored and fitted outer pieces like vests and indoor jackets over more romantically cut bohemian tops in pure feminine jerseys and light breezy wovens, all worked against flattering jeans in progressive washes as well as clean finishes. And throughout the entire range the underlying design-signature is 100% Denham. The Truth is in the Details.

SKINNER The slim fit silhouette, is a 5 pocket jean with signature DENHAM details, including 7-point-pockets, front yokes, darted hems and knees and usage of boxed button holes. Both models feature OTAKU details including cord-piping inserts in belt loops and pocket facings. The jeans are constructed making use of a traditional jeans construction, made on the original American Union special machines, stitching a refined 13 stitches per inch. The CROSSBACK and SKINNER are presented in special made boxes with detailed descriptions on the jean and its craftsmanship. The jean is delivered with an ‘art of the scissor’ bandana and the Denham ‘Virgin Paper’, featuring the newly opened bespoke denim service “DENHAM Service Co.” and a documentation of worn-in virgin pairs from our friends . Within the OTAKU spirit, every detail of the jean is considered and constructed in the most distinguished way possible, making use of traditional jeans assemblies, put together on the original American Union special machines, stitching a refined 13 stitches per inch.

HOUSE GUEST ARTIST - LOK JANSEN For the House Guest Artist concept the design team has again reached out to their personal network of creatives and invited the Dutch born, Tokyo based artist Lok Jansen. Capturing attention of high profile clients like PRADA and having an extended variety of skills in drawing, illustrating, painting and designing, Lok Jansen has been the first to design separate scissor artworks for men and women.

COLOURED FOAM DYE FOR WOMEN Experimentation in dying techniques and use of colour has been very important in developing the S12 denim range. Foam Dye is one of these techniques, developed by placing a foam paste with pigment colour dye on top of the jean. The process of scraping off the jean, once the colour is soaked inside the fabric, together with the use of a left hand fabric and a peach finish, results in an amazing soft hand feel with a beautiful sophisticated vintage look. Available in soft tones; vintage pink ‘peach’, soft grey ‘pewter’, deep blue ‘navy, fresh ‘cobalt’ and ‘army’ green. RE-CUT MILITARY CAMO & HMONG TRIBES

Denham’s seasonal tradition of creating a garment by using alternative fabric sources has already produced eight museum-level limited edition designs. In order to create the new men’s RE-CUT design, Denham’s unique evolution of the classic M65 Field Jacket returns this season. One-man military tents, composed of coated camo, have been cut back to flat and re-sewn into the one-of-a-kind Duty DGL’s. With the laminationside facing out, allowing for enhanced visual character. The women’s RE-CUT offering is the Spy Next DGL that has been lovingly assembled using antique fabrics re-cut from a variety of hand dyed indigo skirts and jackets of the Hmong tribes. The variety of indigo tones and beautiful hand embroideries are combined with leather and silk in order to create a model that grafts together a modified doublet fencing jacket and a motor cycle jacket, both inspirations dating from the sixties. COLLUSION THROUGH INSPIRATION ADVISOR PARKA : ‘INSPIRED BY J.L. EDITION’ Denham’s occasional flirtation with collaborationbased projects manifests itself with a different spin within the S12 collection. Unlike the double-label “Collusion” projects with A Child of the Jago and Precinct Five which proceeded it, the Advisor Parka INSPIRED-BY J.L. Edition was motivated more by pure inspiration. The design team at Denham is a long time fan of Lavelle’s work. His music often fills the studio during crunch-times and his influence on style and culture can be seen around the Denham workspace where album-art from Unkle and Mo Wax records, garment-samples from

NEWS - DENHAM SERVICE Co. DENHAM has opened the Denham Service Co., directly adjacent to the Denham Store Amsterdam. This unique take on an in-store atelier concept allows customers access to all the support required for a jean journey: leg-shortening, fit alteration, hand-washing and tear-repair on dedicated vintage machines. Aside from providing these services, the complete Virgin denim collection is sold in this space. ALCHEMY ONE BY ORTA BLU - FOR A SUSTAINABLE LIFEST YLE As part of the Spring 2012 denim offering, DENHAM and ORTA BLU, the sustainability division of denim manufacturer ORTA, have crafted an exclusive collaboration to celebrate the introduction of the new AlchemyOne process in denim finishing. AlchemyOne is a denim finish process that delivers better physical and visual performance, in a more sustainable fashion compared to traditional approaches. Amongst many qualities, AlchemyOne creates easy-to-dry fabrics with a durable soft hand-feel, fortified vintage looks, higher crease resistance and reduced fluffiness. AlchemyOne is a nearly waterless finishing process, featuring an innovative system of recycling chemical treatments and no health risks are involved. These advancements have allowed Denham to create progressive new finishes using AlchemyOne with very little environmental impact. AlchemyOne, which is an Orta Blu approved finishing process, is included for five jean models of the label. For the duration of the Spring 2012 season Denham’s range will be the only collection worldwide to feature this breakthrough new approach to ecologically sound finishing.

H I G H A LT I T U D E / S U B - O R B I TA L

M I L . S P E C M U S I C F E S T I VA L

RE-CUT

SUMMER (11) COLLECTION

SUMMER (13) COLLECTION

SOMETHING FROM SOMETHING

Press Release

Overview of the Re-Cut program

HIGHLANDS HIGH ALTITUDE TO SHETLANDS SUB-ORBITAL THE INTERPRETATION FOR MEN’S COLLECTION Since the label’s onset the Denham signature has endeavoured to both worship tradition as well as destroy convention. That impulse has led to the combining of historical research with an equal dedication to modern design.

MODERN MUSIC FESTIVAL For the Spring 2013 collection the design team at Denham have folded two seemingly contrary inspirations into their signature design process of worshipping tradition while destroying convention and all the while maintained their focus on rigorous detailing. The overall thematic atmosphere of the season takes subtle cues from both the world of the contemporary music festival (think Fuji Rocks in Japan) and the influence of modern mil-spec contemporary military detailing.

For the winter 2012 collection the design team has spread its reach even wider incorporating more ancient design traditions on the one hand while training their focus even more keenly on the future of utility garment design. The atmosphere of the collection draws on the colours, fabrics and print inspirations from northernmost reaches of the United Kingdom: Scotland, The Shetland Islands, the Orkneys and the Hebrides. But this inspiration is injected with a dynamic current of modernity influenced partly by Denham’s recent involvement in the development of limited edition flight gear for the S.X.C. (Space Expedition Corporation) suborbital travel program. THE INTERPRETATION FOR WOMEN’S COLLECTION The atmosphere of the collection draws on the colours, fabrics and print inspirations from northernmost reaches of the United Kingdom from Scotland, The Shetland Islands, the Orkneys to the Outer Hebrides. This inspiration is injected with a dynamic current of modernity. To warm ourselves in winter, we look up from a frosted horizon. We gaze toward the future. We gaze toward the heavens. We set our controls for the heart of the sun. Colours for the season’s earlier deliveries are characterized by warm autumnal tones that convert to a cooler pallet of tarnished greys and icy blues as Winter approaches. In keeping with the seasonal atmosphere, fabrics mix deep tradition with bold futurism including; “pure-touch” leathers from Danna Tanneries, cashmere melton blends, indigo-dipped vintage linen, repurposed Italian Nav y blankets, silk-mixes with a subtle luster and soft cupra cotton. Since the inspiration knits together atmospheres of the distant past with those of the near future, the collection features a range of integration techniques whereby nylon sleeves are blended with melton bodies, heav y-knit collars are grafted to military twill jackets, tweed and leather are pieced together to compliment the anatomy of a garment and stretch rib panels are inserted within constructions to increase comfort and mobility.

The two inspirations reveal some surprising overlaps despite the sometime opposite angles of their politics. With a shared emphasis on real-time utility. Emblematic artwork, re-contextualized camo-prints and tiny accents of nearly highvis colour-shots not to mention an array of modern nylons and nylon-blends, the worlds of the music-festival and the milspec don’t seem so far apart after all.

ASTRONAUT TRAINING KIT - SPACE EXPEDITION CORPORATION Consumer space travel company S.X.C. approached DENHAM to develop three components of their training kit, provided to their future astronauts.

After five years this concept has taken a wide range of forms and included over a dozen rare fabrics; 3L Gore Tex marine bivouacs; antique Japanese Boro fabrics; Macintosh fabric army ponchos; Dutch army blankets; French mattress covers; Swedish deadstock linen; WW2 pure silk cargo parachutes; military winter tarpaulins; contemporary sky diving parachutes; Norwegian camo army tents; Dutch camo nylon ponchos; British army one-man canvas tents; antique Indochinese Indigo Textiles, Italian navy blankets; Dutch laundry bags; handwoven antique American throws; antique Native American blankets and vintage lace tablecloths. Each fabric sourced and each design created represents a true story of discovery – finding amazing fabrics meeting the amazing people who help us along the way.

THE TRAINING KIT Like the space-training system itself, the SXC Training Kit has been developed to work as a modular system. The main training outfit is comprised of 3 major components to be worn as an integrated whole or as separate pieces depending on what the training mission requires. Future Utility: THE PILOT’S SHELL BOMBER JACKET The SXC Bernal Type 3 Bomber is made from high-grade USAF style nylon twill in the great tradition of fighter pilot jackets like the famous MA1 Bomber. Fully lined with a tailored approach to the interior and articulated with a functional anatomic fit. THE INTEGRATING LINER/INSULATOR: REVERSIBLE AND CONVERTIBLE The SXC Liner Type 3 Insulator employs an innovative removable-zipper system which allows it to be reversed (the backside glows in the dark) or de-zippered and converted to a button-in liner which can be attached directly to the SXC Bernal Type 3 Bomber Shell. A NEW STANDARD FLIGHT PANT Inspired partly by the heated RAF pilot’s suit, the D-SXC Pant, manifest a new approach to ‘Future Utility’ design; fully articulated, reinforced and adjustable. Insignia: PASSING THE TEST Space training is no picnic. After each phase of the program future astronauts will be issued with official insignia patches as an official confirmation of each achievement.

“We chose Amsterdam clothing design company, Denham the Jeanmaker as our development partner for the official training kit. Leading the industry in modernistic utility design and committed to rigorous research, the design team at Denham worked with us to realize each of the final components.” Major Harry van Hulten (SXC founder & test pilot)

THE INTERPRETATION FOR MEN For men the theme ushers in new evolutions of archetypal Denham styles like the Duty field jacket, Bernal Bomber and Advisor Parka all refined and released with renewed emphasis on detail in all-new fabrications. -Materials include; Re-Cut retired skydiving parachutenylon, silver-back waterproof-breathable packable nylon, customrinted blue camo nylon and vivid blaze-blue cotton-nylon. Alongside these are new naturals like the inflated-dip-dyed leather from Danna R&D and indigo variations on spring bedford and rich linen. The men’s collection also continues its exploration of workwear-influenced suiting with the latest edition of the “half-a-two-piece” rugged-tailoring group. And the spiritual cornerstone of the collection, the “indigo dyestuff” assortment also evolves with new denim, chambray and dip-dyed styles. THE INTERPRETATION FOR WOMEN For the women the balance shifts much more toward the contemporary music-festival atmosphere. Denham women’s collection always blends elements of gypset bohemianism, pure modernism, and a rock-and-roll edge. Styles like the Spy Zip literally zip these personalities together combining a rich inflated dip-dyed leather body with vintage blue-jean sleeves. The creative grafting of two garments into one contemporary design continues with the Sola trench which fuses a sassy sixties A-line trench coat with details from a modern sweat hoodie and the Trooper fishtail parka returns Re-Cut from retired skydiving parachutes. The women’s take on tailoring is less workwear and more modernist with new elements being added like the Fleur sport coat and jersey-backed vest.

D O N ’ T C RY OV E R S P I L L E D I N K SPRING EXIT (13) COLLECTION Press Release

Transitioning out of Denham’s main Spring collection, the new exit capsule carries forward the ink shades which had begun to accent the later seasonal deliveries. From the intense cobalt of “Dazzle Blue” to faded classics like chambray, ink flows through exit in deeply saturated tones as well as watered-back hues, inspiring breton stipes, soaks, checks, spatters and spills. FOR MEN Highlights of the delivery for men focus on a high summer twist on Denham’s “Half-a-2-Piece” workwear-inspired suiting separates. The signature “Medic” 3-button sport coat makes new appearances in deep-dyed blue madras and fresh chambray, joined by the new “Patrol” short as a breezy alternative suit.

Depending on the project sometimes the women’s design has shared the same fabric source as the men’s. But sometimes not. Adapting the concept expressly for the women’s collection allowed our designers to explore fabrics full of poetic narrative and laden with seductive mystery. Fabrics like; antique Japanese Boro fabrics; pure French linen bedding; Swedish deadstock linen; pure silk cargo parachutes; brightly coloured lightweight sky diving parachutes; deeply saturated Antique Indochinese indigo textiles; handwoven antique American Throws; antique Native American blankets and vintage lace tablecloths. As with the men’s designs, each fabric sourced and each garment created represents a true story of discovery – finding amazing fabrics meeting the amazing people who help us along the way. These pieces are developed in order to symbolize the highest standard of Denham’s design philosophy. As strange at it may sound, this ambition is a more important inspiration for these products than their mainstream commercial potential. Every aspect of building these unique editions is highly specialized and complex. From acquiring the original source-material to managing disassembly to configuring its fabric for use in the new designs. Each step falls well outside normal manufacturing procedures. To call these “special editions” is actually an understatement. They are not simply a special-edition colour, or print. They are each literally one-of-a-kind. Fabric hand-feel, colour-tone, density and finish all may vary from garment to garment, and even within a single garment. Idiosyncrasies like original labelling, markings, repair work, handwritten elements may (or may not) show up on the final version. These characteristics are evidence of the past life and personal history that have been symbolically and actually stitched into each one. As well as working to symbolize Denham’s design philosophy, we are also hopeful that the final products will find their way into the hands, onto the backs, into the wardrobes of end-customers with an appetite for this rarefied level of design, artisan production and craftsmanship. For end-customers who appreciate this type of product we hope the RE-CUT “DGL Editions” from Denham will become valued heirlooms.

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FOR WOMEN The women’s collection has been injected with a potent dose of new dynamism with new a bold new twist on the signature Spy leather jacket, evocative abstract-art panel prints, dresses and shirting in rich Japanese microfiber with intense color and modern drape.

RE-CUT FOR WOMEN

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MONO WORKWEAR 6

W o r l d P h o t o P r e s s 発行『 W O R K W E A R N o . 6 』2 0 1 2 年 1 月5 日より引用

GLOBAL MAGA ZINE

We A r

DUTCH EDITION - DEC. ‘ 12

ELLE

THE CUTTING ROOM REGISTERED IN THE MEDIA talent we might almost have written ourselves. In other words, we’re particularly gratified and often humbled when folks seem to really get it. They have our sincere gratitude.

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We’re always thrilled to see our young label registering in the media and even though the smallest mention makes us smile, we’re prouder still when our friends in the press personally engage in our concept and we see their shared enthusiasm brought to life in stories, and if we had their

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W O R K H A R D A N D B E N I C E TO P EO P L E .

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YOU INSPIRE US AND HELP US. THANK YOU. YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE.

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T H E S U P P LY C H A I N . I T ’ S A L L A B O U T T H E P E O P L E . H I R O / R I N G O / TA M M Y / R E G I N E / PA O L O / G I G I / T I Z I A N O / A L B E R T O / R O B E R T O / N O R B E R T / J C A R L O S / C O R I N N E / C H R I S / PA U L . . . A N D M A N Y M O R E . T H A N K Y O U F O R H E L P I N G U S W E AV E , K N I T, S T I T C H , D Y E & W A S H 5 YEARS IN THE MAKING.

BRITISH MILLERAIN MADE IN ENGLAND

Folks have been waterproofing fabric by stuffing it with oils and waxes since the days when sailors were improvising foul-weather gear from oilcloth sail canvas. But no mill better represents both the improvisational inventiveness of this simple concept as well as the long tradition of which it is part. When we’ve had the chance to employ BRITISH MILLERAIN waxed and waterproofed fabrics in our designs we take real pride in becoming a small part of that tradition ourselves.

SWIFT DENIM I N T E R N AT I O N A L T E X T I L E S

F OX B ROT H E R S MADE IN ENGLAND

Juan Carlos Ferre

Corinne Viateur-Conquet

It is so exciting (and humbling) when Rosemarie Boon from FOX BROTHERS comes into the studio to share the mill’s new developments with us. Fantastic to see the new qualities and even better to touch, squeeze and twist them in our hands. - And just as exciting to listen as she brings to life the mill’s various processes and inspirations. FOX BROTHERS weaves together wool yarns just as it weaves together history and heritage. It’s a privilege to use their fabrics in our designs.

SWIFT denim is the home of Juan Carlos Ferre, an international denim textile guru who is not afraid to push things forward. Together with the trusty right hand of Corinne his creations are kept on track. SWIFT are possibly one of the best denim colorists in europe. Thank you SWIFT for being part of our 5 years in the making.

ELLETI I TA LY L A U N D R Y

Paolo Biondaro

CADICA

Tiziano Vanzo

ELLETI is where Tiziano makes his magic happen. Tiziano is like a secret magician, give him one idea and he will magic three techniques like nobody else. We admire Tizianos’ work so much because he looks to the future. Tiziano creates modern ideas with a creative spark that can only be made by Italians. Together Tiziano & Paolo are one of the key ingredients in our 5 years in the making.

PA C K A G E D I N I TA LY

Luigi Lavato Alessandro Marchesini

Marcello Manicardi Lorenzo Lugli

TRC C ANDIANI I TA LY T E X T I L E S

CADICA are chameleons adapting their way of thinking to think like us, to understand instinctively the quality we are looking for. The cornerstones of lorenzo’s management and philosophy is equally based on in-depth research and a meticulous attention to detail. A philosophy that we share down to the core. For alessandro and marcello it’s not about showing us new products, or 1-on-1 repros, it’s about sharing our beliefs. CADICA have been the authority in label innovation for 40 years. We are grateful for their contribution to our first 5. Alberto Candiani

Roberto Baroni

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Roberto Baroni and Jason have grown up together in this business. Roberto is the number #1 blue agent in the jeans business today. Roberto is a denim all rounder. He knows the product, how to treat it, how to wash it, and how to finish it, he knows the market, the trends and the state of the industry better than most. And to top it all …..He has very good taste. Special thanks to both Roberto & Alberto Candiani (the future ‘godfather of denim’) for being a big part of our 5 years in the making.

LAB - HK

YIP SHUN

STITCHED IN THE PEOPLES REPUBLIC OF CHINA

S I S T E R S D O I N ’ I T F O R T H E M S E LV E S

Ringo Yuen Tammy Chan

LAB is the third child from our good friend Ringo. Ringo and Jason made their first jean together almost 20 years ago when they were both juniors in PEPE JEANS LONDON (FYI - one of the best denim schools in the business). They both shared a very special PEPE network. Ringo eventually moved on to create his own dream. Ringo loves a challenge – ORKNEY D.G.L. was crafted by Ringo and Liam, one of the key pieces that we are most proud of during our 5 years in the making.

Regine Chan

YIPSHUN was possibly the most favourite factory Jason had the pleasure to work with. YIP SHUN are the reason DENHAM got started so confidently. The infamous sisters Tammy and Regine have retired their tape measures and needles, but boy when they were in the sample room nobody could beat them. Fearless, fast and fastidious for perfection. The Jeans business misses you both - enjoy your retirement! Thank you for starting our 5 years in the making.

A P X R E S S LT D . LONDON, THE WORLD

D A N N A TA N N E R I E S LU N AT I C F R I N G E O F L E AT H E R

Chris Photiou

Monica Garcia

One conversation with Chris (we had it over 10 years ago!) And you immediately recognise his passion & enthusiasm for packaging design. Labels, trims, metals... Chris has a tireless energy for R&D, always on the look out for new ideas and developments. Chris brings to the labelling industry a verve & creative flair that has helped enable us to realise our designs. Thank you APXPRESS for packaging 5 years in the making. Panos Mytaros

Panos and the crew from DANNA R&D might well be practicing a sort of white magic. Tanning is such and ancient process that it naturally conjures up images of a mysterious past defined by all sorts of “secret knowledge” and beguiling wizardry. Combine their mystical skunkworks style with their unrestricted access to the most cutting-edge leather technology and state-of-the-art development facilities, and you’re truly in the world of worshiping tradition and destroying convention. They really are the lunactic fringe of leather technology.

O R TA B L U - T U R K E Y F O R A S U S TA I N A B L E L I F E S T Y L E

NISHIE M A D E I N J A PA N

Norbert Hinderberger

Turkey has one special denim mill that stands out for us and that’s ORTA. Jason has worked with the legendary Norbert Hinderberger since his first days in denim when he was an apprentice at Marks & Spencer. Norbert is a true-blue professional and we have learned a lot from him over the years. ORTA is a high grade mill for the future with a responsible sustainable message. We are very proud of our ORTA BLU collaboration which is a key story in our 5 years in the making.

Hiro Yoshikawa

Mr. Hiro is a true denim aficionado. Hiro has the Japanese midas touch to reinterpret our vintage inspiration better than anyone else. Hiro has been working with us since day 1. Hiro is one-of-a-kind – we wish we could bottle his passion for product,…actually we did!… Hiro also made our “DENHAM sake”. Thank you Hiro for 5 years in the making.

KAIHARA M A D E I N J A PA N

KAIHARA quite simply make some of the most beautiful indigo cloth in the market. Sticking to tradition, KAIHARA exemplifies the true original quality of selvedge denim. This is Jason’s personal favorite fabric to wear everyday. Their narrow width denim has been in every collection we have made. Thank you KAIHARA for weaving our 5 years in the making.

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JAPANESE TRANSLATIONS Japanese translations lovingly and painstakingly translated by Yukiko Kai. (PR DENHAM JAPAN). A wholehearted thank you Kai! 日本語の翻訳は、甲斐裕季子（ P R & M a r k e t i n g D E N H A M J A P A N ）によって細心の注意を払い、慎重に訳されました。心からの感謝を甲斐に申し上げます。

T H A N K YO U FOR 5 YEARS IN THE MAKING Our company culture is organic and team oriented. Since the start it has felt like we’ve been able to anticipate each other’s moves and finish each other’s sentences. Maybe there is some common polarizing energy that keeps us all pointed in the same direction but, whatever the reason, it enables a fluid harmonious approach to our work. Since creative values brought us together in the first place, it also allows us to share responsibility for every detail of our work, rarely requiring the assistance of consultants or specialized agencies.

Between us we have designed most every fixture, graphic and interior. We have taken mountains of photographs, written reams of copy, and laidout a shelf full of collection books. The individuals on our small core team have been responsible for most of the impressions shared within the pages of this book – but we have also benefited from the creative generosity of our wider network. Key allies out there have pitched in and made crucial contributions to our brand, our image and our message.

PRESS

Creative Laboratory Sane Communications Exposure Promotions Ltd. Agency V

STAND BUILDING Leon REKLAME

BOOK & PRINT MATERIALS Joost Widdershoven Johan Riensema

WOMENSWEAR DESIGN 2008-2012

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Barbera van Rest

J A S O N â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S FA B R I C S W AT C H L I B R A R Y

TO U C H I N G C LOT H THE TRUTH IS IN THE TOUCH The secret to building a great garment is the choice of materials. We take pride in using mostly Italian, Japanese and specialist denims. Denim is an art form and the fine line between balancing all the ingredients is miniscule.

99% of denim is 100% Cotton, 3x1 Twill weave with an ecru weft. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the dyestuffs and the finishes that make it something special. The DENHAM denim fabrics are selected by the quality, colour and flexibility. The beauty of denim is the diversity of treatments that can be achieved in the laundry.

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R O B E R T O B A R O N I A N D J A S O N H AV E G R O W N U P T O G E T H E R I N T H I S B U S I N E S S . R O B E R T O I S T H E N U M B E R # 1 B L U E A G E N T I N T H E J E A N S B U S I N E S S T O D AY. R O B E R T O I S A D E N I M A L L R O U N D E R . H E K N O W S T H E P R O D U C T, H O W T O T R E AT I T, H O W T O W A S H I T, A N D H O W T O F I N I S H I T, H E K N O W S T H E M A R K E T, T H E T R E N D S A N D T H E S TAT E O F T H E I N D U S T R Y B E T T E R T H A N M O S T. A N D T O T O P I T A L L … . . H E H A S V E R Y G O O D TA S T E . S P E C I A L T H A N K S T O B O T H R O B E R T O & A L B E R T O C A N D I A N I ( T H E F U T U R E G O D FAT H E R O F D E N I M ) F O R B E I N G A B I G PA R T O F O U R 5 Y E A R S I N T H E M A K I N G .

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T R C C A N D I A N I FA B R I C P R O D U C T I O N

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L I F E B E F O R E W E A R | F I R S T- C L A S S L A U N D E R E D J E A N S B Y 2 E L L E / E L L E T I

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ELLETI IS WHERE TIZIANO MAKES HIS MAGIC HAPPEN. TIZIANO IS LIKE A SECRET MAGICIAN, GIVE HIM ONE IDEA AND HE WILL MAGIC T H R E E T E C H N I Q U E S L I K E N O B O DY E L S E . W E A D M I R E T I Z I A N O S ’ W O R K S O M U C H B E C AU S E H E LO O K S TO T H E F U T U R E . T I Z I A N O C R E AT E S M O D E R N I D E A S W I T H A C R E AT I V E S PA R K T H AT C A N O N LY B E M A D E B Y I TA L I A N S . T O G E T H E R T I Z I A N O & PA O L O A R E O N E O F THE KEY INGREDIENTS IN OUR 5 YEARS IN THE MAKING.

ELLETI L AUNDRY

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A S A B R A N D W E A R E M A K I N G A C O N S C I O U S E F F O R T T O A C T I N A R E S P O N S I B L E W AY. W E O N LY W O R K W I T H A P P R O V E D FA C T O R I E S W I T H T H E C O R R E C T C O N D I T I O N S . T H I S A L C H E M Y O N E P R O C E S S I S A N O T H E R S T E P T O W A R D S S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y, W AT E R S AV I N G A N D R E C Y C L I N G . T H E S E A R E I M P O R TA N T M E S S A G E S T H AT O R TA B L U B E L I E V E S I N A N D A S PA R T N E R S W E S H A R E T H I S I D E A L .

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ALCHEMY ONE This fabric is made using best practices by ORTA BLU. A company committed to energy saving, social initiatives, waterless processing, and organic dying, for a sustainable lifestyle. We try to orchestrate our resources to deliver a garment which is special and will remain in your wardrobe for some time to come. We don’t make claims, and we don’t have any earth shattering insight into environmental issues but we suspect that the increasing speed and product-rotation in the fast fashion market and normalising the idea of ‘disposable’ fashion have been bad for consumer and environment.

T U R K E Y H A S O N E S P E C I A L D E N I M M I L L T H AT S TA N D S O U T F O R U S A N D T H AT ’ S O R TA . J A S O N H A S W O R K E D W I T H T H E L E G E N D A R Y N O R B E R T H I N D E R B E R G E R S I N C E H I S F I R S T D AY S I N D E N I M W H E N H E W A S A N A P P R E N T I C E AT M A R K S & S P E N C E R . N O R B E R T I S A T R U E B L U E P R O F E S S I O N A L A N D W E H AV E L E A R N E D A L O T F R O M H I M O V E R T H E Y E A R S . O R TA I S A H I G H G R A D E M I L L F O R T H E F U T U R E W I T H A R E S P O N S I B L E S U S TA I N A B L E M E S S A G E . W E A R E V E R Y P R O U D O F O U R O R TA B L U C O L L A B O R AT I O N W H I C H I S A K E Y S T O R Y I N O U R 5 YEARS IN THE MAKING. O R TA B L U | F O R A S U S TA I N A B L E L I F E S T Y L E

S O C I A L I N I T I AT I V E S E N E R G Y S AV I N G I N M A N U FA C T U R I N G O R G A N I C COT TO N U P C Y C L E D , R E C Y C L E D A N D S U S TA I N A B L E P R O D U C T S A N D FA B R I C S E D U C AT I O N A L D E N I M A C A D E M Y

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L A B I S T H E T H I R D C H I L D F RO M O U R G O O D F R I E N D R I N G O. R I N G O A N D JA S O N M A D E T H E I R F I R S T J E A N TO G E T H E R A L M O S T 2 0 Y E A R S A G O W H E N T H E Y W E R E B OT H J U N I O R S I N P E P E J E A N S LO N D O N ( F Y I - O N E O F T H E B E S T D E N I M S C H O O L S I N T H E B U S I N E S S ) . T H E Y B O T H S H A R E D A V E R Y S P E C I A L P E P E N E T W O R K . R I N G O E V E N T U A L LY M O V E D O N T O C R E AT E H I S O W N D R E A M . R I N G O L O V E S A C H A L L E N G E – O R K N E Y D G L W A S C R A F T E D B Y R I N G O A N D L I A M , O N E O F T H E K E Y P I E C E S T H AT W E A R E M O S T P R O U D O F D U R I N G O U R 5 YEARS IN THE MAKING.

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LAB

RINGO’S OFFICE

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S E V E N G E N E R AT I O N S O F S A K E M A K E R S . T H E I R F I R S T E X P O RT G I F T E D TO D E N H A M PHILIP JINTES

J A PA N E S E S A K E A GIFT FROM HIRO His father, his father’s father, and 5 generations before him have made fine sake. Hiro’s gift to Jason is 100 bottles of his finest sake. To celebrate the launch of DENHAM. “My father found evidence that our family sake business started in 1672. But we are sure that our sake factory started since 1804. We have clear evidence. So, we just want to tell people from clear history. Exactly 204 years of history, since 1804 and 5 generations since (my father is the 5th generation). Now I am not following in my father’s business, because I love denim! I have never taken care of my father’s business before, but my father is getting old and I cannot keep it like this. I decided to introduce family sake outside Japan since last year and Denham is the very first export sake in our history. I’m really proud of this Jason! Thank you very much.”

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H I R O F A M I LY S A K E H O U S E

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M R . H I R O I S A T R U E D E N I M A F I C I O N A D O . H I R O H A S T H E J A PA N E S E M I D A S T O U C H T O R E I N T E R P R E T O U R V I N TA G E I N S P I R A T I O N B E T T E R T H A N A N Y O N E E L S E . H I R O H A S B E E N W O R K I N G W I T H U S S I N C E D AY 1 . H I R O I S O N E - O F - A - K I N D – W E W I S H W E C O U L D B O T T L E H I S PA S S I O N F O R P R O D U C T, … A C T U A L LY W E D I D ! … H I R O A L S O M A D E O U R “ D E N H A M S A K E ” . T H A N K Y O U H I R O F O R 5 Y E A R S I N T H E MAKING.

N I S H I E D E N I M F A C T O R Y J A PA N

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大人に味方するデニム OCEANS 11月号 2012年より引用

1 0 0 % M A D E I N J A PA N “ O B S E S S I V E / I N FAT UAT E D / I D I O S Y N C R AT I C & D E T E R M I N E D ” These are all words that can be used to describe the Japanese design culture. Each characteristic inspires the team’s respect and they see the particular mix of values as representing something uniquely Japanese. Ever since Jason Denham’s first visit to Japan he has been fascinated by the culture and obsessive focus demonstrated by Japanese artisans, designers, producers and even by Japanese consumers. They seem to instinctively recognize the best in American, British and European culture. They absorb a nearly direct influence from each, except that they intensify the quality, craftsmanship and detailing beyond even the original. In attempting to copy they very often improve.

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In the case of denim the Japanese had become infatuated with the iconic American ideals of freedom, rebellion and a fearless pioneering spirit. All of these were reflected in the classic American 5-pocket blue jean of cowboys, rock-stars and Hollywood rebels. In the late 60’s the big American weaving mills switched from narrow loom 29” to 55” efficient modern weaving machines. All original US weaving machines were quickly snapped up by the Japanese and obsessive, infatuated,

idiosyncratic denim was born. The Japanese have an incredible passion for detail. They took the original denim process but made it better than ever before. They combined traditional Western qualities like the best yarns, the most rigorous standards for dyeing and weaving and an exacting approach to construction with the rich traditions of their own local Japanese culture including a profound nearly spiritual commitment to craftsmanship, an intuitive understanding of the “beauty of imperfection” and their own ancient indigo dyeing processes. They fused all of this together with discipline and determination to create a uniquely Japanese strain of timeless and tough artisan jeans, which also managed to express new levels of beauty and world-class creativity. 100% Japanese Textile, 100% Japanese Laundry. One of the specialized finishes in the denim range is the KOUJI. For both genders, this jean brings true artisan denim with hand paint finish. It’s the one off Japanese for ladies.

K A I H A R A Q U I T E S I M P LY M A K E S O M E O F T H E M O S T B E A U T I F U L I N D I G O C L O T H I N T H E M A R K E T. S T I C K I N G T O T R A D I T I O N , K A I H A R A E X E M P L I F I E S T H E T R U E O R I G I N A L Q U A L I T Y O F S E LV E D G E D E N I M . T H I S I S J A S O N ’ S P E R S O N A L FAV O R I T E FA B R I C T O W E A R E V E R Y D AY. K A I H A R A N A R R O W W I D T H D E N I M H A S B E E N I N E V E R Y C O L L E C T I O N W E H AV E M A D E . T H A N K Y O U K A I H A R A F O R W E AV I N G O U R 5 Y E A R S IN THE MAKING.

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ROSE BOWL L. A . TO OSAK A MARKETS V I N TA G E D E N I M P R O S P E C T I N G The Japanese denim story (Spring 2013) is inspired by a trip to the Rose Bowl L.A., We woke up at 4AM and grabbed our flashlights to join the world’s most passionate pickers, hunters and gathers in search of blue treasure, being sure to get there first and pick the best inspiration. This collection is a study of that trip’s museum-grade discoveries with aged finishes and natural wear-patterns painstakingly replicated within the best Japanese laundryhouses by the industries best denim artisans and wash-technicians.

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日本のジーンズ力

World Photo Press発行『モノ・マガジン 6.16』2012年より引用

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J A PA N D U M P S T O R E THE RISING SUN BURNS BLUE We don’t wish to harp on about our love for all things Japanese, but with today’s modern trend for making jeans in Japan, it is an appropriate time to explain fully the reasoning behind our appreciation for eastern denim. Most jeans craft aficionados will sympathize with our sometimes eastward leaning. The fact is that makers in the west owe a debt of gratitude to their eastern counterparts on numerous levels.

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During the largely regrettable 70’s when most of the west’s commitment to authenticity, tradition and quality was caught in the squeeze between new ideas like flavour-of-the-week “designer jeans” focused only on cosmetics and mass-produced corporate brands focused only on profits. “Otaku” denim fanatics in Japan became the most passionate guardians and stewards of legitimate bluejeans culture. They salvaged the looms, archived the originals, studied the techniques and undertook advancements that reflected both a deep respect for jeans craft tradition and a singleminded devotion to making jeans better. In the decades that have passed since, Japan has solidified its position among the elite denim-producing regions in the world and we are continually inspired by their collaborations with the skilled artisans working there. And, as an Englishman maybe Japan similarities to the United Kingdom explains another aspect of our personal appreciation for Japanese craft tradition. Both island nations with proud histories, a flair for artisan innovation and a bottomless appetite for fish and chips...Albeit in the form of sushi-rice instead of chips...

服も見た目も華麗なる”ヴィンテージ”

Safari 11月号 2012年より引用

SPRING (11) R I N TA N A K A

J A PA N A N T I Q U E L I G H T P O W E R E D B Y R I N TA N A K A SPRING 11 MEN’S PHOTOGRAPHY & D.G.L. ARCHIVE IMAGES Since the publication of his first seminal books on the history of the motorcycle jacket through each subsequent issue of his own My Freedamn book series, Rin Tanaka’s personal dedication to photoarchiving vintage garments has stood head and shoulders above anybody else. The passionate approach to preserving garment history manifested by these books was one of the key inspirations for the team to even conceive of creating a Denham Garment Library of their own. For us, Rin Tanaka has always represented the pinnacle of responsible garment archiving. So it could be considered a little crazy that we took 4 full seasons to work up the courage to ask Tanaka-San himself to lend his technical prowess and boundless energy to the task of documenting some of the label’s own garment archives as well as completely new Denham garment prototypes designed as part of the brand’s Spring 2011 collection. To our tremendous excitement Rin said “yes”. The resulting images are the pride of the team at Denham and the technical dexterity and creative sensitivity reflected in each of Rin’s photographs are already inspiring us to seek to continue to increase the quality of our own efforts in documentation. We are very proud to be working directly with Rin Tanaka, and for both Rin and Denham; The Truth is in the Details.

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クラシックなソースと独自の裁断技術に注目！Begin 11月号 2012年より引用

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JAPAN GRAFT VINTAGE | 80 HOURS + /- PER JEAN Inspired by a rare piece from our archives: a 1940’s XX vintage workpant. This is a true workwear pant that has had a tough life, it even had one leg amputated and another one grafted on to replace it. We recreated this vintage goldmine and followed the same principal - grafting on another leg.

これが大人のすべらないデニム MEN’S CLUB 12月号 2012年より引用

J O R G E N KO O LW I J K F O R C E N T R A A L M U S E U M “ B LU E J E A N S ” E X P O S I T I O N

B LU E J E A N S E X H I B I T I O N CENTRA AL MUSEUM, UTRECHT In November 2012 Jason was invited by Centraal Museum in Utrecht to participate in an exhibition charting the impact of Blue Jeans into Dutch society and to submit a favourite jean that he covets. 1. Describe in about 100 words a special story about one of your favorite denim. 2. Describe any technical or historical details about your denim.

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It may have started with pioneers like Iris Apfel risking ridicule, while hunting down extra-small (even children-sized) jeans in the 1940â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hell-bent on reworking them into exciting expressions of a confident but still mysterious new feminine ideal. It evolved, refined and deepened through the decades since then, resulting in iconic new style attitudes without a hint of gruff masculinity. In the hands of MarIlyn Monroe, Brigitte Bardot, Loretta Lynn, Tanya Tucker, Michelle Phillips, Grace Slick, Marianne Faithfull, Patti Smith, Chrissie Hynde, Sienna Miller and Kate Moss... The list of powerful personalities is unending and the role theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve played in fully coopting the tradition is undeniable. For a long time now, clothing with modest workwear origins have been entirely re-cultivated by women for women.

“...IT WAS THE OPENING OF THE STORE IN AMSTERDAM WHEN I FIRST SAW DENHAM AND I IMMEDIATELY LOVED IT.” SASKIA VAN LANGEVELDE - FASHION EDITOR - VOGUE NL

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Inspired by a brightly coloUred array of automotive Aerosol sprays the colors are nearly electric in brightness providing vibrancy In Dazzle Blue, Torch Red, Gloss Black and Silver Grey. SPRING (13)

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ITALIAN FOAM DYE SATEEN: DYEING WITH FOAM IS A UNIQUE PROCESS THAT FIXES A NATURAL LAYER OF FOAM OVER A SUPER SOFT SATEEN FABRIC TO CREATE ONE-OF-A-KIND FINISHES SPRING (13)

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SPONTANEOUS PROTO MADE AT THE LAST REMAINING KIMONO DYE HOUSE IN KYOTO

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CLEANER S I L K K I M O N O DY E WORSHIP TRADITION - Knowing designers’ passion for both traditional and innovative textile crafts, the crew from Denham Japan organized a private tour of the last remaining Kyoto dye-house specializing in the ancient technique of marbleization. A mix of action-painting, calligraphy and printing, normally reserved for silk wedding kimonos - the zen-like process captured our imagination and led to the

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spontaneous over-printing of one of our classic women’s styles on the spot.

...Further exploration in the Amsterdam studio resulted in the creation of our own INK PRINT homage to the technique

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CLEANER INK PRINT DESTROY CONVENTION - Oil and water print, created using pigment inks. The Ink print uses a marbled oil and ink technique which emulsified creatING a surface layer screen that part transfers onto parchment paper when laid on top. The effect was then worked into a full width lay and THEN digitally printed onto silk. ALL OF WHICH WAS DONE AFTER HOURS IN THE BATHTUB IN THE DENHAM GARDEN.

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“...ONE OF THE NEW LABELS WE LOVE”.

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“...WHETHER [THE INNOVATION] STANDS FOR FABRIC FINISHES, CUTS OR SILHOUETTES, A LOT OF THOUGHT GOES INTO THE CREATION OF EACH ITEM, AND YOU CAN REALLY SEE THAT CARE AND ATTENTION COMING THROUGH TO THE COLLECTIONS.”

LAURA WEIR - ELLE UK, NOV. 2011

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MARIJKE AERDEN

“...DENHAM TAKES WORKWEAR AND GIVES IT A CONTEMPORARY, FEMININE FEEL.”

IRENE POLLINI GIOLAI - VOGUE ITALIA

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MARIJKE AERDEN

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FROM HARISSA TO ELLE: “...I would live in those jeans if I could, they are my faves. u guys were so ahead on the boyfriend skinny trend.”

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MARIJKE AERDEN

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LOIS - HIGH SNOBETTE (NYC)

“Although the [BUENA] jacket is intended for everyday wear, the bold double-breasted construction and the stylistic touches simulate a museum-grade piece.”

Igor Guinau - ZOO MAGAZINE, FEB. 2011

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MARIJKE AERDEN

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“...they exemplify a niche boutique denim category that seldom is explored on the women’s side. Thankfully they have recently answered my prayers with a stunning women’s collection that stays true to their tailored aesthetic.”

Samia Grand-Pierre - HIGHSNOBETTE - July 2010

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VIVE: inspiration

HEAD-TO-TOE BOHO & BORO BLUE: A MODERN MIX OF DENIM AND BLUE-BASED SEPARATES INSPIRED BY THE BOHEMIAN VIBE AND JAPANESE BORO-TEXTILE STYLE.

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MADE IN JAPAN WITH 100% ARTISTRY, LOVE & PASSION. BUT NO SHOES. 80 HOURS +/- PER JEAN

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MARIJKE AERDEN

“...OF MY FAVOURITE BRANDS, DENHAM IS THE ULTIMATE. I HAVE A JEANS FETISH.”

SYLVIA HOEKS - ACTRESS

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“IT ’S NOT JUST THE JEANS.” PHILIP JINTES

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SASKIA VAN LANGEVELDE - FASHION EDITOR - VOGUE NL

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SPY JACKET HALF MUSKETEER / HALF MOTORCYCLE JACKET Often the most exciting and poetic elements of the past need to be coaxed into the future. Sometimes it takes a gentle touch - a subtle talent with pen, paper, needle and thread and the sensitivity to massage ideas from previous generations into exciting new concepts for an utterly modern woman. Sometimes the task requires altogether more vigor. It requires that a designer digs in her heels and exercises her natural prerogative as an artist - to challenge sometimes dusty conventions from another time and fight bravely on behalf of pure creativity and feminine self-expression. In those cases it helps when the scissors are sharp and wielded with deftness and passion; like Joan of Arcâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sword. The Denham studio has been fortunate to be home to exceptional creativITY with the ability to employ a combination of a gentle touch and swift decisive incisions. At its best, this is the process the has led to the most iconic designs in the womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection each season.

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Inspired by the 1930â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Graf Zeppelin and its Wireframe like scaffolding the Spy Lite follows a similar shape principle TO THE SPY. UPDATED WITH a voluminous 3D fill and quilting articulated sleeve, internal corsetry inspired detailing.

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MARIJKE AERDEN

“FIVE OF THE BEST...THE NEW LABELS WE LOVE: DENHAM; THE BRAINCHILD OF YOUNG DENIM GEEKS COMMITTED TO PROGRESSIVE DESIGN...NERDY GETS COOL”.

ELLE UK, MAY 2011

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“...WITH THE HIGHLAND JACKET, THE BRAND CREATED A PARKA THAT FEATURES JUST THE SAME CHARACTERISTICS AS ITS NAMESAKE: STRONG; FAST; SOFT & WARM. NOT TO MENTION THAT THE JACKET LOOKS JUST GORGEOUS”. Samia Grand-Pierre - HIGHSNOBETTE

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“...I THINK WHERE DENHAM EXCELS AS A BRAND IS THE PRODUCT. THE INNOVATION IS REALLY THERE, WHETHER IT ’S FABRICS, THE CUTS & SILHOUETTES - A LOT OF THOUGHT GOES INTO THE CREATION OF EACH ITEM AND YOU CAN REALLY SEE THE CARE AND ATTENTION COMING THROUGH TO THE COLLECTIONS”.

LAURA WEIR - ELLE UK

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PETROVSKY AND R AMONE

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PETROVSKY AND R AMONE

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E A C H R E - C U T G A R M E N T R E TA I N S I T S O R I G I N A L M A R K I N G S

When we started re - cutting vintage textile items, disassembling dusty old army ponchos and stiff surplus sleeping -bag covers to produce limited edition items in our men’s collection, we didn’ t see the concept ’s potential in the women’s collection at first. But that was before we considered the possibilities for both pure creative expression and rich, romantic storytelling. Depending on the project sometimes the women ’s design has shared the same fabric source as the men’s. But sometimes not. Adapting the concept expressly for the women’s collection allowed our designers to explore fabrics full of poetic narrative and laden with seductive mystery. Fabrics like ; Antique Japanese Boro Fabrics ; pure French linen French bedding ; Swedish dead stock Linen; pure silk cargo parachutes ; brightly coloured lightweight sky-diving parachutes ; deeply saturated antique Indochinese indigo textiles ; handwoven antique American throws ; antique Native American blankets and vintage lace tablecloths. As with the men’s designs, each fabric sourced and each garment created represents a true story of discovery – finding amazing fabrics meeting the amazing people who help us along the way. 233

THE KINGS D.G.L PUSHES THE BOUNDARIES OF RE-CUT AND SETS A NEW PRECEDENT IN ASPIRATION.

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KINGS D.G.L. (1 of 16) H A N D -W OV E N D O M E S T I C T E X T I L E S F RO M A M E R I C A’ S H E A RT L A N D For the recent Fall 2013 edition of the seasonal re-cut project, we hoped to push the boundaries of the concept even further, blurring the line between the world of garment-making and the world of fine art. The design team traveled from Southern California to Washington State meeting with specialist dealers along the way who trade in hand loomed domestic textiles from the farmhouses and sitting rooms of 1800’s America. In sweltering summer heat of over 100 degrees Fahrenheit we scoured the hundreds of stalls within California’s Rose Bowl Flea Market. We could never have predicted the beauty of what we found there and the passion of the people we met. Nor could we have predicted their generosity as they helped us in our somewhat insane quest. People like John Maloney and his wife who took us through the history of home-woven blankets from Indiana, Ohio and across America’s Midwest. They showed us how the maker’s names and the date of completion were woven directly within the warp and weave of the pattern. The Maloneys inspired us to make sure we preserved this spirit as we eventually laid-out each of the individual variations of the King D.G.L. We also traveled to Tacoma’s industrial backroads and worked with dealer Jess Tart to dig more unique designs from his mountain

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of hand-picked examples as he added to our education on the history of the domestic weaving in America.

EACH COAT IS INDEBTED TO THE CRAFT OF THOSE WHO MADE EACH BLANKET, BUT HARMONISED INTO ONE MODERN COLLECTION, EACH WITH ITS OWN UNIQUE STORY.

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KINGS D.G.L. (2 of 16) H A N D -W OV E N D O M E S T I C T E X T I L E S F RO M A M E R I C A’ S H E A RT L A N D ...On our return we sat side-by-side with our pattern-makers, cutters and stitchers to painstakingly harmonize the wide variety of textiles we’d acquired into 16 separate expressions of our re-cut concept. The final designs feel even more opulent to us - having accompanied each one on the journey from their original places within raw and dusty archives to the simple symmetry of the finished designs. Each contributing blanket was a hand-made work of art and we hope we’ve honored that heritage by treating each jacket in the same spirit.

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“RATHER THAN SIMPLY COPYING OR RESURRECTING STYLES, THEY DRAW CONCEPTUAL INSPIRATION FROM THE OBJECTS, MELDING SOMETIMES DISPARATE CULTURES AND FABRICS TOGETHER WITH FINISHING TECHNIQUES THEY DEVISE THEMSELVES. THE RESULTS ARE TIMELESS, EMINENTLY WEARABLE AND UNIQUE.” INDIA FLINT | SECOND SKIN - 2011 SPRING (12)

SPY NEXT D.G.L. V I N TA G E H I L L T R I B E I N D I G O C L O T H The new Spy Next D.G.L. for women is a highly limited-edition biker jacket crafted from both vintage and contemporary examples of Indochinese narrow-loom indigo fabric. The design team traveled to Bangkok to consult with specialized traders dealing in hand-woven textiles from the Hmong and other regional cultures. During the trip it was possible to procure a mix of cloth including small bolts made by present day artisans as well as antique cloth in the form of vintage jackets and traditional accordion skirts to be disassembled and re-employed into the new Spy jacket design. It was an immense privilege to be able to dedicate time and energy to a project like this, which survives purely on the passion of our team and is matched only BY the passion of the people around the world who come to our aid – like the immensely knowledgeable and dedicateD experts we met on our trip. Of course the work isn’t complete until the material has been carefully disassembled and prepared for use in

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our new design where it was combined with full grain leather panels, stretch rib elements and silk twill linings.

“[...]…THE FIELD JACKET IS CREATED FROM A PASTICHE OF FABRICS, MISH-MASHED TOGETHER TO PRODUCE A STUNNING GARMENT.”

KAT GEORGE | DAZED & CONFUSED - JULY 2009

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SPY BORO D.G.L. M U S E U M G R A D E J A PA N E S E B O R O K I M O N O S In many ways this is the project that started it all for us. We had envisioned taking one of our own designs; in this case the Spy biker jacket and producing a very special edition using fabric re-cut from vintage textile items – antique clothing, bed linens, tapestries, etc. During the brainstorming phase we all agreed that the ultimate source for the fabric would be the beautiful “Boro” textiles found in vintage Japanese kimonos, leggings and blankets used by itinerant workers in old japan. We were already enamored of this fabric for its connection to both the world of workwear (it is worn by hard working people) and indigo (it is distinguished by a range of specialized indigo-based dyeing techniques). Examples of vintage boro textile are normally and understandably highly prized and they command very high prices in the collectors’ market. We traveled to Brooklyn New York to meet with an incredibly energetic and passionate dealer and Boro expert whose love of this type of craft was contagious. Thanks to his partnership and his belief that we would make something worthy from the antique cloth we were able to acquire enough to produce 24 individual Spy Boro D.G.L. jackets. Each one unique and each one a record of the love and work that was woven into its original fabric. 237

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EACH JACKET SPENT ITS PAST LIFE GENTLY CARRYING SKYDIVERS TO SAFETY AFTER THEIR FREE-FALL

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TROUPER LITE D.G.L. R E T I R E D S K Y- D I V I N G PA R A C H U T E S The women’s Trouper Lite D.G.L. was developed alongside the men’s Advisor Parka D.G.L. sharing the same inspiration and the same re-cut fabric concept. Annemaren, our collection developer, went in search of the type of brightly colored nylon parachutes used in modern sky-diving. We had heard that the canopies are retired after a certain number of jumps for safety reasons, so we reasoned that there must be stock of older ones piling up somewhere. We eventually located that pile on the island of Texel, which we learned was a popular destination for European sky-divers. Our source was the Paradive Centrum and one of its pilots, Jasper Rienks, drove us out to his own property where he had been saving the old chutes in an out-building. Unpacked and washed-up, the material came back to life with all the color and movement we hoped to create in our Trouper Lite parka design. To celebrate the project ’s completion Annemaren and our new friend Jasper took us all sky-diving where we rolled out of an airplane ourselves and were brought gently to the earth carried by the exact same fabric as now wraps the wearers of the Trouper Lite D.G.L.

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“MADE OF HEAVILY LAUNDERED VINTAGE FRENCH LINEN SLIPCOVERS AND ITALIAN NAVY BLANKETS FROM THE 1950S, THE TROUPER PARKA FOR WOMEN TAKES STYLE AND FUNCTIONALITY TO NEW LEVELS WITH INTRICATE DETAILS.” HIGH SNOBETTE

- AUG. 2012

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TROUPER D.G.L. B A T H D Y E D F R E N C H L I N E N & I TA L I A N N AV Y W O O L E N B L A N K E T S The women’s Trouper D.G.L. was developed alongside the men’s Advisor Parka D.G.L. sharing the same inspiration and the same re-cut fabric concept. We discovered the archive fabrics for this project at a stall of our friends at the War & Peace show in Tunbridge Wells. The dealer in question had journeyed to the fair from Paris. She charmed us with her personality first and then did us the favoUr oF allowing us to preview her secret stash of history-rich vintage materials. We settled on rugged natural linens from France (a washed version of something we had worked with before) and warm soft dead-stock wool blanketing from the Italian Navy circa 1950. Because we’re daily inspired by the processes of denimcraft and because we hoped to harmonize these very different fabrics within one garment concept, we settled on a hand dip dyed technique as the main color treatment. Linen parts were laid down individually in indigo baths and then pulled out, wrung by hand and dried flat to create a one-of-a-kind optic loaded with rich highs and low textures which combined beautifully with the natural navy blue of the blanketed lining.

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F E R RY D . G . L . V I N TA G E B L A N K E T S A N D Q U I LT E D N Y L O N Around the studio we’re aware that hinging our design ethic to a workwear tradition can pose a practical problem when it comes to our approach to the women’s Collection. But all you need to do is accept that the illustrious history of women’s jeans ultimately all ties back to the original impulse on the part of visionary women BY adaptING a men’s garment for their own purposes. So, we remain vigilant on the subject. We keep the possibility of heritage workwear to inspire a great women’s piece at the front of our minds. We do it in denim of course, but also in other categories. Besides blue jeans, there are not too many images cooler than that of a mod-style fishtail parka adapted to the tastes and attitudes of a confident contemporary girl. So it made sense to set our sites on converting its design to suit her practical needs and her sense of style. The Ferry D.G.L. was our first fishtail parka design for women and it is made from stand-alone outer shell crafted from a sanded peachtouch microfiber twill that blends together comfortable cotton with durable nylon. But the real surprise is the insulation. Faced and

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lined with deadstock Dutch army blankets, the Ferry D.G.L. combines modern fabrication with the special magic of re-purposed cloth into one integrated concept.

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PAT C H & V I V D . G . L . V I N TA G E A R M Y P O N C H O S The VIV travel wallet and PATCH tote bag feature the same fabric inspiration as the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Longshore D.G.L. Patched together using local supplies of Dutch Army Ponchos and Dutch Army Blankets. These items were disassembled and reconstructed with the rubberized mackintosh fabric of the ponchos combining with the warm texture of the blankets to create one-of-A-kind accessories.

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LAY , CUT, SEW, DYE, REDESIGN. RE-LAY,...RE-CUT, RE-SEW.....AN ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TASK. A BATTLE ROYALE WITH THIS TAPED 100% SILK MATERIAL. WE DECONSTRUCTED THE FABRIC INTO SECTIONS AND RE-ASSEMBLED BY TAPING, STITCHING, REINFORCING AND TUNNELLING. THE OUTCOME: A GREAT LITTLE PARACHUTE INSPIRED SPORTS JACKET. FA L L ( 1 1 ) MARIJKE AERDEN

CHUTER D.G.L. CR AFTED FROM 65 YEAR OLD SILK The women’s Chuter DGL represents one of the most poetic examples of the ReCut concept. To create the Chuter DGL we scoured our vintage resources for large-scale 100% pure silk cargo parachutes of the type used during WW2 before the development of modern nylon. As silk was also used for women’s fashion, the wartime imperative to redirect silk supplies to the production of parachutes famously left women to forgo wearing silk garments. A condition which was overcome with ingenious improvisations like the one captured in so many films; the beautiful girl drawing a line up the back of her bare leg to create the appearance of a silk stocking. Now here we are in the 21st century. We procured just enough silk parachutes from the 1940’s to produce a limited run of 36 jackets. We dyed the large bright yellow cargo parachutes a deep shadowy black, the silk thirstily absorbing the pigment to produce one of the loveliest midnight shades we’ve ever seen. And now, finally, in the 21st century we endeavoUred to give the girls back the silk they had to

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Give up over six decades ago.

SPRING (11) MARIJKE AERDEN

CAMINO D.G.L. narrow-loom linen and antique Swedish twill There’s a woman in Noord-Scharwoude Holland named Jeanette. Jeanette has no pretenses, doesn’t suffer fools and doesn’t posture as a vintage expert or student of the history of clothing design, and yet she knows more about the field than loads of writers and bloggers on the subject – including us. She has helped source a number of our recut textiles. For this project she located deadstock French linen mattress covers with an optic and handfeel that would BE very difficult to reproduce today. You could nearly smell the aroma of flax fields basking in the sun when you touched it. The Camino D.G.L. is a modernized corseted doublet that uses the same re-cut fabrics as the Men’s Medic and Waist D.G.L., but for the women’s style Jeanette also provided deadstock narrow-loom linen and antique Swedish twill to use in the linings and facings.

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H U N T I N G F O R D E A D S TO C K M AT E R I A L S TO R E - C U T

S tarting in S pring 2 0 1 0 , the design team at D enham hav e executed a v ery special series of R E - C U T limited edition designs . E ach is characterized b y its use of uncon v entional fa b ric sourcing – fav oring the use of fa b rics cut away from v intage finished goods like items of v intage clothing or home textiles , tents or parachutes . T he designation “ D G L” refers T O the D enham G arment L i b rary which is the spiritual home of the studio ’ s research acti v ities . A fter fi v e years this concept has taken a wide range of forms and included o v er a dozen rare fa b rics ; 3 L G ore -T ex M arine Bi v ouacs , A ntique J apanese Boro Fa b rics , M acintosh F a b ric A rmy P onchos , D utch A rmy Blankets , F rench M attress C o v ers , S wedish D eadstock L inen , W W 2 P ure S ilk C argo Parachutes , M ilitary W inter Tarpaulins , C ontemporary S ky D i v ing Parachutes , N orwegian C amo A rmy T ents , D utch C amo N ylon P onchos , British A rmy O ne - M an C an vas T ents , A ntique I ndochinese I ndigo T extiles , I talian N av y Blankets , D utch L aundry Bags , H andwov en A ntique A merican T hrows , A ntique N ati v e A merican Blankets and Vintage L ace Ta b lecloths . E ach fa b ric sourced and each design created represents a true story of disco v ery – finding amazing fa b rics meeting the amazing people who help us along the way. 249

C A D I C A A R E C H A M E L E O N S - A D A P T I N G T H E I R W AY O F T H I N K I N G T O T H I N K L I K E U S , T O U N D E R S TA N D I N S T I N C T I V E LY T H E Q U A L I T Y W E A R E L O O K I N G F O R . T H E C O R N E R S T O N E S O F L O R E N Z O ’ S M A N A G E M E N T A N D P H I L O S O P H Y I S E Q U A L LY B A S E D O N I N - D E P T H R E S E A R C H A N D A M E T I C U L O U S AT T E N T I O N T O D E TA I L . A P H I L O S O P H Y T H AT W E S H A R E D O W N T O T H E C O R E . F O R A L E S S A N D R O A N D M A R C E L L O I T ’ S N O T A B O U T S H O W I N G U S N E W P R O D U C T S , O R 1 - O N - 1 R E P R O S , I T ’ S A B O U T S H A R I N G O U R B E L I E F S . C A D I C A H AV E B E E N T H E

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A U T H O R I T Y I N L A B E L I N N O VAT I O N F O R 4 0 Y E A R S . W E A R E G R AT E F U L F O R T H E I R C O N T R I B U T I O N T O O U R F I R S T 5 .

R E C R E AT I O N N OT R E P RO D U C T I O N

A PAT T E R N O F P R E C I S I O N O R I G I N A L M I L I TA R Y PA T T E R N S Military garments are often virtuoso examples of utility tailoring. Specific garments with a military specification (MilSpec) are often referred to by their “pattern number”. M65 (Military Pattern 1965), B9, MK3, C-1, MA1, M53… and so on. Officers of a certain rank and means preferred to have their uniforms furnished by their regular tailor. Military commissions have always been part of the tradition of Savile Row at legendary tailors like Huntsmen and Gieves & Hawkes. But whether on Savile Row or a village main street, a private tailor could execute a private commission as long as they had access to the official “Pattern”. These patterns confirmed the exacting military requirements of the design and the patterns and prototypes were tagged, sealed, stamped and signed to ensure the correct design was use for reference. Every so often we’ll happen to come across one of these official patterns or prototypes – in places like Tunbridge Wells or the outskirts of Paris. We’ve taken inspiration from the beautiful labeling system when we conceived our own approach to identifying our D.G.L. Re-Cut projects.

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“ E A C H S P O R T C O AT A S A O N E O F A K I N D M A R K I N G T O D E N O T E I T S I N D I V I D U A L A R T I S A N C O N S T R U C T I O N , A T R I B U T E T O T H E Q U A L I T Y A N D C A R E D E N H A M TA K E S I N T H E P R O D U C T I O N P R O C E S S .”

K AT G E O R G E - D A Z E D A N D C O N F U S E D - J U LY 2 0 0 9

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MEDIC INTEL D U T C H M A R I N E 3 L G O R E -T E X S L E E P I N G S H E L L S

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One of the legendary stories about the birth of modern jeanscraft is about American workwear tailors crafting pants out of the tough fabric, intended for tents during the Gold Rush and the expansion West. There are other stories but the central notion of making clothing from fabric intended for temporary housing is what inspired this exercise in re-purposing. Like the Gold Rush canvas tents before them, the Dutch Marine Bivouacs contain all the rugged fabric-features required to produce a tough utility garment. The fact that using “aftermarket” Gore-Tex enabled us to do the project without consulting Gore-Tex themselves gave the project a good natured sense of mischief.

“ . . .T U R N I N G T O I N T R I C AT E LY TA I L O R I N G W I T H D E A D - S T O C K F R E N C H L I N E N ‘ M AT R A S S C L O T H ’ T H E D E S I G N S U P R E M O ’ S H AV E C R E AT E D A C O L O N I A L S T Y L E J A C K E T A N D W A I S T C O AT M A S T E R P I E C E .”

CO N T R I B U TO R | T R E N D B L A S T E R - JA N . 2 01 1

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M E D I C N AT I O N A L E & W A I S T D . G . L . F R E N C H A R M Y L I N E N M AT T R E S S COV E R S There’s a woman in Noord-Scharwoude Holland named Jeanette. Jeanette has no pretences and doesn’t posture as a vintage expert or student of military design, and yet she knows more about the field than loads of writers and bloggers on the subject – including us. She has helped source a number of our recut textiles. For this project she located deadstock French linen mattress covers with an optic and handfeel that would be very difficult to reproduce today. You could nearly smell the field of flax basking in the sun when you touched it.

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“ D E N H A M ’ S O N G O I N G C O M M I T M E N T T O R E - C U T FA B R I C S E E S H I S T O R Y R E P E AT I T S E L F W I T H A N U T T E R LY C O N T E M P O R A R Y O U T C O M E .” TRENDBL ASTER - FEB 2011

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ORKNEY D.G.L. B A T H D Y E D F R E N C H L I N E N & I TA L I A N N AV Y W O O L E N B L A N K E T S We discovered the archive fabrics for this project at the stall of our friends at the War & Peace show. The dealer in question charmed us with her personality first and then did us the favour of allowing us to preview her secret stash of history-rich vintage materials. We settled on rugged natural linens from France (a washed version of something we had worked with before) and thick deadstock wool blanketing from the Italian Nav y circa 1950.

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Because we’re daily inspired by the processes of denim craft and because we hoped to harmonize these very different fabrics within one garment concept, we settled on a hand dip dyed technique as the main color treatment. Linen parts were laid down individually in indigo baths and then pulled out, wrung by hand and dried flat to create a one-of-a-kind optic loaded with rich high and low textures which combined beautifully with the natural navy blue of the blanketed lining.

“ … A L L O F W H I C H A D D S U P T O A J A C K E T T H AT ’ S H U G E LY F U N C T I O N A L , U N I Q U E L O O K I N G A N D A L M O S T C E R TA I N LY T H E P E R F E C T C O AT F O R A N Y O N E W H O A S A C H I L D L O N G E D T O B E A S T O R M T R O O P E R .”

L I N E A G E O F I N F L U E N C E - N O V. 2 0 1 1

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N AU T I LUS D . G . L . M I L I TA R Y W I N T E R S N O W TA R PA U L I N S Our comrade Bob has boundless energy, a great eye and a giant Rolodex in his head. He stormed into the studio one day having found stacks of very large used white (sort of...) winter tarpaulins at one of his military surplus suppliers. The ripstop cotton duck canvas was drenched in full-bodied character so we overlooked the fairly wide array of densities that ranged from so-stiff-it-stands-up-by-itself to heavy-but-foldable and we overlooked the surface discoloration that appeared throughout the inventory and decided to embrace the willy-nilly nature of making garments from recut textiles in the first place. We don’t make so many recut items and our recut customer understands that these things are part garment, part research project, part artwork and part museum-item; so we went ahead with our own vision of a snow mountain parka built from this burly repurposed cloth.

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“A M S T E R D A M ’ S D E N H A M F O L L O W S A N D W O R K S T H E H E R I TA G E M O V E M E N T B E T T E R T H A N M O S T.”

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M O H AW K C H I N O D . G . L . DUTCH ARMY TENTS It could be argued that modern jeans culture began when workwear tailors in the American West first cut a pair of prospector pants from rugged tent fabric. This instalment in Denham’s ongoing commitment to recut fabrications sees history repeat itself with an utterly contemporary outcome. The deisgn is inspired by a pair of rainproof 1950’s workwear chinos from the long defunct “Mohawk”.

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The new men’s Mohawk style pays homage to the original through the use of Talon hardware, cat-eye suspender buttons and a generally excruciating attention to assembly detail. But these new chinos take those ideas fully into the present day adding a tailored waistband, full front leg facings, bound fly constructions, darted articulation and a host of other Denham signatures. The recut fabrication employs makes use of vintage Dutch Army Tents in pure cotton canvas. Each tent has been disassembled and re-crafted into the pant design. Vintage damask laundry bags reworked in a similar process into soft waistband facings, Dutch and German Army camouflage tarps were also deconstructed and transformed into pocket-bags.

J E F F C A R VA L H O | S E L E C T I S M - F E B . 2 0 1 1

“ M O H A W K R E - C U T L I S T E D A S FAV O U R I T E F I N D B Y G U I L L A U M E S A L M O N @ C O L E T T E .”

SHIFT - FEB. 2011

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M O H AW K C H I N O D . G . L . DUTCH ARMY TENTS To call these “special editions” is actually an understatement. They are not simply a special-edition color, or print. They are each literally one-of-a-kind. Fabric handfeel, color-tone, density and finish all may vary from garment to garment and even within a single garment. Idiosyncrasies like original labeling, markings, repair work, handwritten elements may (or may not) show up on the final version. These characteristics are evidence of the past life and personal history that have been symbolically and actually stitched into each one. ‘The Hussif’ (or Housewife - as known in military ranks) is a home repair kit. A case containing thread, needles and other articles for sewing are included with each pair. Not easy, but we found enough deadstock inventory of military hussifs to place in the pocket of each Mohawk DGL.

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â&#x20AC;&#x153; [ . . . ] . . A W O R K O F O U T E R W E A R A R T. T O TA K E O L D D I S C A R D E D M I L I TA R Y I T E M S , D I S A S S E M B L E T H E M A N D T H E N R E C O N S T R U C T T H E M I N T O A P E A C O AT T H I S G O O D TA K E S S O M E S E R I O U S D O I N G . W H AT Y O U E N D U P W I T H I S S O M E T H I N G T H AT T O A L L I N T E N T S A N D P U R P O S E S I S B R A N D N E W, B U T A T H E S A M E T I M E S T I L L S E E M S T O R E TA I N T H E H I S T O R Y I N T H E M AT E R I A L S .â&#x20AC;? L I N E A G E O F I N F L U E N C E - O C T. 2 0 1 0

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LO N G S H O R E D . G . L . DUTCH MARINE PONCHOS In order to create the LONGSHORE D.G.L., we located a supply of Dutch army ponchos made from full-bodied mackintosh fabric (waterproof by virtue of its construction: two layers of cotton gabardine sandwiched around a layer of rubber) and Dutch army blankets in pure thick wool. These items were carefully deconstructed and then reconstructed into our signature pea-coat design. The ponchos supplied the main body fabric while the blankets provided the collar lining and facings.

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Despite the unconventional use of slightly unwieldy re-cut fabrics we were able to integrate complex signature Denham detailing like the Cable Connection closures, Double Riveted Backside Taped Buttons and contrast Boxed Button Holes. The interior also features Japanese denim and herringbone twill sleeve linings.

“ W O R K I N G W I T H S O M E O F T H E B E S T FA C T O R I E S A N D C R A F T S M E N I N T H E W O R L D , S K I V E H AV E L E A R N E D T O A P P R E C I AT E T H E C R A F T S M A N S H I P T H AT G O O D S H O E M A K I N G R E Q U I R E S . “ C R A F T E D W I T H O U T C O M P R O M I S E ” . E V E R Y A S P E C T H A S T O B E C O N S I D E R E D , C R E AT I N G D E S I G N S T H AT G O B E Y O N D M E R E LY F U L F I L L I N G A N E E D , B R I E F O R F U N C T I O N , B U T C O N C E I V E D W I T H E V E R Y D E TA I L I N M I N D T O C R E AT E T H E P E R F E C T P R O D U C T.”

S K I V E O F LO N D O N

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FOOT WEAR BY SKIVE (LOW CUT )

FOOT WEAR AND TEAR BY JON BEEDELL (HIGH CUT )

SKIVE SHOE D.G.L. DUTCH MARINE PONCHOS Mark Walker and Joachim Sedelmeier from British premium footwear label Skive colluded with us on a special DENHAM X SKIVE collaboration shoe. They were inspired by our Mohawk D.G.L.’s use of vintage army tents. So they took their signature last, their beautiful leather lining qualities and their fresh spring-in-your-step approach to detailing and they blended these elements with the same army-surplus tent canvas. They even supplied an extra pair of laces made from rolled tent fabric. Skive’s achievement converting the influence of our brand as well as the vintage re-cut raw material is doubly impressive when we reflect on the process we used to acquire these fabrics. Especially when we see how they stand up to the test after Jon Beedell has “worn them til they fall off”.

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“ D E N H A M ’ S L AT E S T M A S T E R P I E C E : A D V I S O R PA R K A .”

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A D V I S O R PA R K A D . G . L . R E T I R E D S K Y- D I V I N G PA R A C H U T E S For the Advisor Parka D.G.L. we wanted to bring our seasonal mil-spec music festival theme to life. Annemaren, our collection developer, went on the hunt for modern but retired parachutes. We had heard that the canopies are retired after a certain number of jumps so we reasoned that there must be stock building up somewhere. We located a pile of brightly coloured “retired” sky-diving parachutes from a paradive school on the island of Texel. We re-cut them into ultra-light parkas.

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Each one is unique but all the nylon in each jacket spent its past life gently carrying skydivers to safety after their free-fall. In homage to the science of packing a parachute, the Advisor Parka D.G.L. rolls up and inverts into its own pocket making it self-packable. To celebrate our launch of the design, Annemaren took us all sky-diving where we got to know folks like Jasper Rienks and the crew in Texel who’d helped make the jacket possible.

J O E L - LO C A L H E R O Z

“ T H I S J A C K E T C A R R I E S A N I N C R E D I B L E A M O U N T O F D E TA I L , PA R T I C U L A R LY W I T H T H E P O C K E T S W H I C H C O M E I N S E V E R A L VA R I E T I E S F R O M R E M O VA L ‘ B R A S S A R D S ’ T O V E R T I C A L Z I P P E D A I R L I N E T I C K E T H O L D E R S .”

ST YLE | SOS - FEB. 2012

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DUT Y D.G.L. DUTCH ARMY PONCHOS Earlier on we’d used heav y vintage mackintosh army ponchos to re-imagine a D.G.L. design. This time we came across slightly more modern ponchos with a beautiful camouflage pattern (Dutch but similar to a British DPM) made from lightweight nylon with a waterproof coating on the backside. The backside lamination had started to crack and patina with age and we liked the optic so much we built our design inside out to maximize its impact. The drawcord was also sourced from vintage, a beautiful jute twist cord with brass-fitted ends – origin unknown.

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2 - P I E C E S U I T: M E D I C & D R O P C R O T C H D . G . L . NORWEGIAN SOLO TENTS

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This stunning Norwegian camouflage was the pattern adorning a vintage one-man tent discovered initially at the War & Peace festival in Tunbridge Wells. Smitten with the fabric we used our own network to secure just enough of these tents to produce a new twist on our workwear based approach to tailoring.

“ … A M A Z I N G LY I N G E N I O U S , T H E J A C K E T S , PA R K A A N D V E S T S [ ] A R E M A D E O U T O F [ ] . . .T E N T M AT E R I A L , O R M E TA L A N D A R E S T U F F E D W I T H K I L L E R D E TA I L S , . . .”

WA D M A G A Z I N E

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2 - P I E C E S U I T: M E D I C & D R O P C R O T C H D . G . L . NORWEGIAN SOLO TENTS Inspired also on some level by the Felt Suit, Joseph Beuy’s iconic artwork, the two pieces have been meticulously detailed with satin bindings and waxed cotton facings. Like a butcher challenging himself to use “all the parts”, the jackets design makes use of the orginal tent’s closure system and corner-tabs, becoming pocket-flaps on the jacket and pants. Having created a bit of a uniform, we elected to equip each suit with a pair of tailor’s scissors sheathed in the same recut fabric. Go forth and re-cut. Go forth and conquer.

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On e ste p i ns id e th e D ENH A M d es i gn s t ud i o a n d even a ca sual ob s e r ve r ca n s ens e w h a t ’ s go i ng o n. Fewe r t h an h al f-a - d ozen c rea t i ves w i t h a co m b i ne d e x pe r ie n ce of over h a l f o f cen t ur y in t he fi e l d of w or k w e a r a nd ut i l i t y ga r m ent design a ppare n tly s h are a d eep s ea ted v i ew t hat now i t is th e ir tu r n . Bo r n i n t h e 6 0 ’ s a n d 70 ’ s a nd w e an e d on th e d es i gn c ul t ures o f t he 80’s, 90 ’ s an d 00’ s t h ey s h a re a uni ver s a l and pa ssi on ate cu l tu re t h a t t ra n s cen d s t h ei r indiv i dua l re g ion al pe r s p ec t i ves . D es p i te h avin g cut th e ir cre ative teet h i n t h e r i c h a nd var y ing l a nd s cape s of th e UK , E uro p e a n d t h e US they rare ly re q u ire ex ten s i ve d i a lo gue to dete rmi ne d ire ction . Re p l a c i n g t h e s t a n d a rd c hat te r of tre n d an alys i s a n d m a r ket t a c t i c s is t he throb of mu s ic, the rea s s ur i ng w h i r o f an industri a l s ew in g mac h i n e, t h e gna s h i ng o f sc iss or bl a d e s an d more mys ter i o us s o un d s o f ex p eri me nt ation , al l w h i c h co m b i n e to c rea te an atmosphe re th at is e q ua l p a r t s w o r k s h o p , labo ra tor y, re s e arch cent re a n d d y na m i c mo dern de s ig n ate l ie r. T h e tea m i s s t i l l yo ung and na ïve en ou g h to tr y new a p p ro a c h es . A n d t hey ’re sti ll you n g e n ough to w o r k w i t h t h e so m eti me s, b re ak n e ck m o m en t um a s s o c i a ted with youth f u l e n th u s ias m . But t h ey ’ re a l s o ex p eri e nce d e n ou g h to w o r k w i t h a co nf i d en ce and d i sci pl i n e th at e n s u res a co ns t a nt fo c us o n qu ali ty, wor k man s h ip and exec ut i o n. Fo r t h em t he truth i s in th e d e tail s .

F O L K S H AV E B E E N W AT E R P R O O F I N G FA B R I C B Y S T U F F I N G I T W I T H O I L S A N D W A X E S S I N C E T H E D AY S W H E N S A I L O R S W E R E I M P R O V I S I N G F O U L- W E AT H E R G E A R F R O M O I L C L O T H S A I L C A N VA S . B U T N O M I L L B E T T E R R E P R E S E N T S B O T H T H E I M P R O V I S AT I O N A L I N V E N T I V E N E S S O F T H I S S I M P L E C O N C E P T A S W E L L A S T H E L O N G T R A D I T I O N O F W H I C H I T I S PA R T. W H E N W E â&#x20AC;&#x2122; V E H A D T H E C H A N C E T O E M P L O Y B R I T I S H M I L L E R A I N W A X E D A N D W AT E R P R O O F E D FA B R I C S I N O U R D E S I G N S W E TA K E R E A L P R I D E I N B E C O M I N G A S M A L L PA R T O F T H AT T R A D I T I O N O U R S E LV E S . FA L L ( 1 1 )

COMMANDER BRITISH MILLERAIN Inspired equally by an iconic motorcycle trials jacket and a WW2 british army tunic. This example is built from legendary British Millerain waxed cotton and lined with thick black and white check and employes a modified shoulder brassard pocket set.

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Cable connecton - removable reversible brassard pocket - shaped sleeves and contoured fleece backed cuffs - fleece backed throat flap - under tabbed button pockets - extra can of refresher wax - travel document chest pocket.

PA N O S A N D T H E C R E W F R O M D A N N A R & D M I G H T W E L L B E P R A C T I C I N G A S O R T O F W H I T E M A G I C . TA N N I N G I S S U C H A N A N C I E N T P R O C E S S T H A T I T N A T U R A L LY C O N J U R E S U P I M A G E S O F A M Y S T E R I O U S PA S T, D E F I N E D B Y A L L S O R T S O F “ S E C R E T K N O W L E D G E ” A N D B E G U I L I N G W I Z A R D R Y. C O M B I N E T H E I R M Y S T I C A L S K U N K W O R K S S T Y L E W I T H T H E I R U N R E S T R I C T E D A C C E S S T O T H E M O S T C U T T I N G - E D G E L E A T H E R T E C H N O L O G Y A N D S TA T E - O F - T H E - A R T D E V E L O P M E N T FA C I L I T I E S , A N D Y O U ’ R E T R U LY I N T H E W O R L D O F W O R S H I P P I N G T R A D I T I O N A N D D E S T R O Y I N G C O N V E N T I O N . T H E Y R E A L LY A R E T H E L U N A C T I C F R I N G E O F L E A T H E R T E C H N O L O G Y. SPRING (13)

BERNAL BIKER I N FL AT E D L E AT H E R The Bernal represents our effort to progress and merge the designs of the archetypal racer-style motorcycle jacket with the classic nylon MA1 USAF pilot’s jacket together with an array of our own innovations. Denham’s own biker-influenced jacket witnesses the label’s signature Tri-Swing action back integrated across the shoulder zone. This aspect of the model is inspired by Denham’s trench coat construction and the silhouette takes cues from a host of motorcycle jackets locked away in the Denham Garment Library.

removable SCISSOR FACE patch

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“ . . . C R A F T S M A N S H I P W I T H A N U N E R R I N G LY D E TA I L E D E Y E . T H E B R A N D H A S B E E N B U I LT F R O M R I G O R O U S R E S E A R C H [ ] T O E N S U R E T H AT E A C H I C O N I C I T E M O F C L O T H I N G I S C R E AT E D W I T H O N LY T H E U T M O S T P R E C I S I O N A N D Q U A L I T Y D E S I G N A N D M AT E R I A L . T H R O W N I N T O T H E M I X I S A G E N E R O U S D A S H O F M O D E R N I S M .”

DA ZED AND CONFUSED

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SEA COMMISSION T R E N C H COAT Inspired equally by a classic stand/fall collared trench coat and a technical outdoor shell. This example is built from water resistant and breathable ceramic coated fabric with contrasting seam tape.

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Tri-swing action back – travel document chest pocket – secure zip and hand stuffer lower pockets – cable connection – flip snap cuffs – buttons to accept the Denham Liner insulator.

removable & reversible zipper unit inspired by rapid response boot zipper

equipped with a full interior button-set to combine with the ROGUE LINER jacket

“ T H E O V E R A L L A E S T H E T I C B R I D G E S C O N T E M P O R A R Y O U T E R W E A R W I T H C L A S S I C M I L I TA R Y R E G A L I A .”

J O S H R U B I N | C O O L H U N T I N G - S E P T. 2 0 1 2

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ORKNEY W I N T E R COAT Inspired equally by a WW2 Swedish army winter coat and a Canadian winter parka. This example is built from cavalry twill and lined in rich quilted rayon like a vintage B9 bomber with woven linen trims and a thick knit collar. Engraved toggle closure – mini toggle wrist, pocket and throat flap adjusters – zip away hood – A4 cargo pockets with hand stuffer pockets behind – lower arm key pocket – cape strap at chest.

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“ T H E C O A T ’ S O V E R A L L D E S I G N D R A W S I N F L U E N C E F R O M V I N TA G E N AVA L O U T E R W E A R , Y E T D E V I A T E S F R O M B O X - F I T O F A R C H E T Y PA L W O R K S A T T I R E , PA R A D I N G A N U M B E R O F M O D E R N I S T R E V I S I O N S A N D A S T R E A M L I N E D S I L H O U E T T E .”

J E F F C A R VA L H O - S E L E C T I S M , A U G . 2 0 1 1

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D U T Y S I LV E R B A C K W P B R E AT H A B L E N Y LO N Inspired by a classic military M65 field jacket pattern but aggressively reworked with a modernized fit and updated functional detailing. This example is built from silverbacked waterproof breathable nylon with printed seam tape. 7-point piggy back pockets – travel document chest pocket – cable connection – stow away hood – shaped sleeves and contoured cuffs – packable stuff sack – buttons to accept Denham Type 3 Liner insulator.

“England expects that ever y man must wear his DUT Y ”

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packable stuff sack

“ I T ’ S O N E O F T H O S E J A C K E T S T H AT C O N T I N U A L LY S U R P R I S E S Y O U W I T H W E A R . P E R H A P S Y O U ’ L L F I N D A N E W B U T T O N , A P O C K E T, O R P E R H A P S S O M E F O R M O F D E TA I L I N G T H AT C AT C H E S Y O U R E Y E – A T R U E L A B Y R I N T H O F A P I E C E T H AT W I L L H AV E Y O U I N S P E C T I N G I T N U M E R O U S T I M E S W I T H A N A I R O F A M O U R A N D A P P R E C I AT I O N .”

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N AU T I LUS LODEN WOOL Inspired equally by a 1980s foul weather gear pullover and the interior of classic Swiss army wool tunics with an accidental Duffel coat effect. This example is built from loden and trimmed wool with a mix of cavalry twills and tartans. The hidden carry strap is based on the rescue handle of a tank crew suit. Hidden carry strap – cable connection – contoured cuffs – articulated sleeves – tapering volume cargo pocket – asymmetrical upper zip.

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I T I S S O E X C I T I N G ( A N D H U M B L I N G ) W H E N R O S E M A R I E B O O N F R O M F O X B R O T H E R S C O M E S I N T O T H E S T U D I O T O S H A R E T H E M I L L’ S N E W D E V E L O P M E N T S W I T H U S . FA N TA S T I C T O S E E T H E N E W Q U A L I T I E S A N D E V E N B E T T E R T O T O U C H , S Q U E E Z E A N D T W I S T T H E M I N O U R H A N D S - A N D J U S T A S E X C I T I N G T O L I S T E N A S S H E B R I N G S T O L I F E T H E M I L L’ S VA R I O U S P R O C E S S E S A N D I N S P I R AT I O N S . F O X B R O T H E R S W E AV E T O G E T H E R W O O L YA R N S J U S T A S I T W E AV E S T O G E T H E R H I S T O R Y A N D H E R I TA G E . I T ’ S A P R I V I L E G E T O U S E T H E I R FA B R I C S I N O U R D E S I G N S . FA L L ( 1 1 )

LO N G S H O R E F O X B R O T H E R S W O O L | J A PA N E S E D E N I M Inspired equally by a classic USN pea-coat and a eurosport motorcycle jacket. This example is built from bonded wool woven by FOX BROTHERS which have been in continuous operation since before the Great War and lined with backside Japanese denim. Cable connection – reverse tape through buttons – large inner map pocket – classic corduroy pocket bags – boxed button holes.

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locked strong with double rivets beneath the surface

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LO N G S H O R E O I L R I G C A M E L L E AT H E R Inspired equally by a classic USN pea coat, a 1950’s Amsterdam fireman’s coat and a eurosport motorcycle jacket. This example is built from a revolutionary camel leather matched with FOX BROTHERS wool. The leather is developed by the DANNA R&D tannery to be waterproof, breathable and highly durable. Cable connection – inner elbow flex zones – travel document center pocket – reverse tape-through buttons – knitted inner cuff gaskets – central action back.

locked strong with double rivets beneath the surface

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“ . . . C O AT S B U R S T F O R W A R D W I T H I N N O VAT I V E Z I P S A N D B U T T O N S , F E AT U R I N G C O L O U R S P U L L E D F R O M E X T E N S I V E A R C H I V E S A N D I N S P I R AT I O N F O R B O T H S T Y L E A N D P R A C T I C A L F E AT U R E S [ . . . ] T O F I G H T H A R D W I N D S . I N C L U D I N G H I G H A N D L O W -T E C H FA B R I C S F R O M Q U A L I T Y S U P P L I E R S , P R O V I D I N G A N D A S T R O N G V I S I O N .”

S T Y L E C R AV E

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M A C S TAT I O N MACKINTOSH Inspired equally by a British Denison smock and a Belgian mountain parka. This example is built from waterproof mackintosh-type fabric. Blue and red gaberdine on either side of a latex membrane ensures that water bounces off. Ipad pocket - Iphone sleeve - cable connection – reverse tape through buttons - flip snap cuffs - integral boxed buttonhole waist adjuster - loden wool lining - removable epaulet sleeve branding - 10 pockets.

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removable front face insignia

“ O N E O F D E N H A M ’ S M O S T E N D E A R I N G T R A I T S I S T H E I R C O M M I T M E N T T O A W H O L LY T R A N S PA R E N T M E A N S O F W O R K I N G ; T H E Y C O N T I N U A L LY S H A R E T H E I R I N S P I R AT I O N S , T E L L E X C E P T I O N A L LY R E L E VA N T S T O R I E S A N D E N G A G E T H E I R A U D I E N C E W I T H A P P L A U D A B L E V I G O U R .”

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LINER I N S U L ATO R Inspired equally by a USAF C-1 survival vest - a reversible hunting blouson - the liner from an M65 jacket and the modular zipper on a fireman’s rapid-responder’s combat boot. This example is built from Japanese dobby nylon reversing to memory twill nylon. Removable/reversible zipper unit – primaloft insulation – notched contoured cuffs – C1 “survival configuration” of 10 cargo pockets, 1 x MP3 pocket and two hand-stuffer pockets – expanding rib stretch zones.

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“ T H E N E W D E N H A M M E D I C U N I O N I S A M A Z I N G W I T H A D E TA I L E D H E R I TA G E T H AT P U S H E S F O R W A R D W I T H A C O N T E M P O R A R Y F I T.” R E V O LV E R - S E P T. 2 0 1 0

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MEDIC UNION W I N T E R S P O RTCOAT Inspired equally by a 1950’s British “donkey jacket”, a wool “CPO” overshirt and a modern sport-coat. This example combines heavy melton wool with PU coated shoulder yokes in an anatomical modern fit.

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Ring & eye buttons – contoured cuffs – inseam exterior pockets – panel printed lining – action back.

WORKWEAR WITH DIGNIT Y E A R LY E U R O P E A N S P O R T C O A T T H R O U G H A M O D E R N L E N S The underlying idea is very basic. Before, work was something that we fit into a box between 9AM and 5PM and work garments were considered distinct from casual dress. Trade clothes followed the same shapes we now consider formal or even sartorial: sportcoats, waistcoats and trousers. Our modest efforts to contribute to this tradition are inspired, among other things, by the portraits of August Sander. One look at his Bricklayer’s waistcoat and the idea becomes clear. Our imaginations are also ignited by the ingenious functional details we find within vintage pieces. The laced “Fitswell” buggy-lining used by hunters and gamekeepers for ease of shoulder motion, or the use of ring & eye buttons by both tradesmen and soldiers for durability have been part of this inspiration.

Image from August Sander (b. 1876): ‘Face of Our Time’ (2008) by Schirmer Visual Library

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熟せば熟すほど垢（アカ）抜ける LEON 1月号 2013年より引用

SPRING EXIT (13)

1 HALF OF A 2-PIECE TECHNICAL T WILL Built for travel, suited for work: A combination of garment archetypes normally thought to be formal - sportcoats, waistcoats and trousers – which once constituted both workwear and everyday wear at the turn of the century. The Medic 2-Stage, based on a US Army officer’s tunis, the Waist Knit Back based on a French waistcoat and the Dropcrotch trouser make up the half a 2-piece. These examples are built from a modern technical twill treated with wear patterns developed in the denim laundries.

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MEDIC: Ring & eye buttons – Neustadter pocket construction – laced hunter’s buggy lining – 7-point interior pocket // WAIST KNITBACK: Internal mp3 pocket, internal passport pocket, reinforced shank buttons, dynamic knit back // DROPCROTCH: Onepiece fly – striped internal bindings – shaped and darted cuffs – trumpet buttons.

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“ 3 P I E C E S W E E T, C A S U A L S U I T I N G F R O M A M S T E R D A M .”

LO V E D B Y S T E P H E N M O N A G H A N AT A N O T H E R M A G A Z I N E - F E B . 2 0 1 2

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1 HALF OF A 2-PIECE THICK MOLESKIN Rugged, warm and dignified: The modern sportcoat, waistcoat and trousers are no longer considered workwear. But it wasn’t so long ago that tradesmen and laborers dressed in these types of garments lending their work a unique everyday dignity. In those days the focus was more on utility, mobility and durability than on tricking the eye with padded-out shoulders or pinched-in waistlines. This example is built from thick cotton moleskin.

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MEDIC: Ring & eye buttons – neustadter pocket construction // WAIST: Internal mp3 pocket, internal passport pocket, reinforced shank buttons, one handed back adjustment // MOHAWK: Tailoring friendly waist construction - fully bound interior – shaped and darted cuffs – trumpet buttons.

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L E AT H E R LOW TO P

NYLON HIGH TOP

The Notch represents our effort to apply our signature “Cable Connection” closure system to a footwear platform. The fully functional lacing is achieved via the deployment of an independent cable surrounding the foot accessed through a sequence of simple notches in the vamp that replace traditional eyelets. This cable is tightened via traditional laces dispersing the support evenly around the foot.

The Harness represents our effort to utilize traditional “Ice Goulashes/Cramp On” technology within a modern all-around footwear application. The skeletonized rubber rand literally harnesses the foot providing stability and support over the ballistic nylon upper. The system creates secure foot wrap and integrates seamlessly with the outsole profile.

The chassis of the new Notch is inspired by the fully functional lace construction associated with the moccasins of Native Americans and other ancient cultures. The unique feature being the way in which laces secure the shoe not just over the forefoot, but around the back of the foot as well.

The most distinct feature of the new Harness is the skeletonized rubber rand which morphs from the traditional rand-zone up and over the forefoot and heal of the shoe. This dynamic functional form was based on the design of rubber pull-on ice goulashes and climbing cramp-ons.

shoebox design

THE ART OF THE SCISSOR “ I T A L L S TA R T E D W I T H A PA I R O F S C I S S O R S ” For us, but also for garment-making in general, cutting cleanly through cloth with a knife is a tricky business. The breakthrough invention combining two knives on a pivot changed everything.

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For us scissors are a metaphor. The shape of Jason’s first scissor inspired the Denham logo. They are an obsession, evidenced by Jason’s personal collection as well as that of the label’s design director, Liam Maher whose combined collection can be seen within the Denham Garment Library. They are as beautiful as bronze Brancusi sculptures and as dangerous as Mack the Knife. They record a shared history. They come from as far back as the Dark Ages up through the Era of Savile Row making pit-stops in the American Civil War as well as rural tailoring workshops in the Middle and Far East.

They are triggers for the artistic process as demonstrated by art director Ali Kirby’s seemingly infinite illustrative variations. Grafted together into hybrids he has joined them with chainsaws, sickles and propellers and deconstructed them to create mechanistic mammoths, preying mantises and bald eagles as a 2nd metaphor that represents the brand mantra: WORSHIP TRADITION : DESTROY CONVENTION. They link us to our collaborators. Forming the basis of new work from respected artists and designers whose interest in the twin-blades is sharp enough to convince them to play in our sandbox for a time. They are our House Guest Artists. They are a universal language. They bridge us across cultural boundaries enlivening our dialogs with scissor-wielding artisans from every corner of the globe. And each season we celebrate them all over again.

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アリが手がけたクールなシザーアート（ハサミアート）。ロゴ、パッケージ、カタログ、ウェブサイトなどヴィジュアル全般を受け持つアート・ディレクター、アリ・カービー。World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

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5 H O U S E G U E S T A R T I S T S : T H E C O N C E P T O F T H E H . G . A S E R I E S I S V E R Y S I M P L E . W E R E A C H O U T T O E X C E P T I O N A L C R E AT I V E S W H O S E W O R K W E A D M I R E . W E I N V I T E T H E M T O C R E AT E A S P E C I A L A R T W O R K I N C O R P O R AT I N G A S C I S S O R , B U T W E I N S I S T I T B E D O N E W I T H O U T A N Y C O M P R O M I S E T O T H E I R O W N U N I Q U E V I S I O N …W E T H E N I N T E R G R AT E T H E A R T W O R K I N T O I N O U R S E A S O N A L C O L L E C T I O N .

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GUEST ARTIST #1 ALLJAN MOEHAMMAD The first artist we asked was a local hero, Alljan Moehamad. Alljan has inspired a cultfollowing for mind bending pen-and-ink illustrations that seem to flow completely organically from the end of his pen. He will sit at his work table, clear his mind and ignite an initial imaginative spark. From that first ignition the work seems to unfold nearly of its own volition or at least he’s taught himself to remove any artificial filter between his mind and his hand. Representational forms spill forth but before the viewer can predict their direction they morph, spin and bloom into other images and objects. The result can be compared to psychedelic artwork from the Fillmore Theater days in San Francisco and New York, but they manifest a clean contemporary freshness that can only be from Alljan’s own time and his own place. Alljan and his vision are nothing if not absolutely original.

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GUEST ARTIST #2 JAKE NOAKES The 2nd in our series of guest artists welcomes SHOOTING THE BREEZE into the Denham house. A graphic design studio founded in 2004 by Jake Noakes and Samira Kafala. The studio specialises in graphic design, art direction and illustration and works across a variety of fields from fashion and media to publishing and visual arts. STB specialises in printed media (mainly books and magazines) often creating limited edition, bespoke publications for their clients. For example the studio has been asked by Reel Art Press to art direct and design their first limited-edition publication entitled Bill Gold: PosterWorks avaialble via reelartpress.com. The geometric scissor design has a timeless yet contemporary appeal and was inspired by the works of Sol LeWitt. w ww.jakenoakes.com

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GUEST ARTIST #3 LOK JANSEN For the 3rd House Guest Artist concept the design team has again reached out to their personal network of creatives and invited the Dutch born, Tokyo based artist Lok Jansen. Caught the attention of high profile clients like PRADA and having an extended variety of skills in drawing, illustrating, painting and designing, Lok Jansen has been the first to design separate scissor artworks for men and women. w ww.lokjansen.com

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“ D E N H A M C R E AT E S A N D R E - C R E AT E S I T S E L F. T H A N K S T O S E V E R A L A R T I S T I C TA L E N T S , I T S FA M O U S S C I S S O R S PA I R I S G O I N G T O B E S U C C E S S I V E LY C U S T O M I Z E D B Y A N A R T I S T, E A C H S E A S O N .”

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GUEST ARTIST #4 CITIZENS OF HUMANITY “ I am a citizen of humanity, just like you “ Through our friendship with Adriano we got to meet the Citizen team and realized that we share the same dreams and ideals as Jerome Dahan. The Citizen crew made a movie of the DENHAM family and together we made special tees to support our chosen charity; AD BOAT Japan. “ Give a man a fish and he will eat for a day – teach him how to fish and he will live forever”.

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GUEST ARTIST #5 P I R AT E Our 5th installment of the Guest Artist series comes courtesy of Pirate. The creation of Nigel Barnes (AKA Big Fella) and Craig Fielding (AKA Curly), Pirate Creative Direction is a small but fabulous creative marketing agency based in Amsterdam. Coming from fashion, graphic design and marketing backgrounds, the Pirate crew offer a unique approach to tackling the changing demands of brands; a refreshing alternative to the standard ad agencies out there. The Pirates are also good shipmates of the Denham team and this edition is made in celebration of both their 10 year anniversary and the DENHAM 5 year anniversary. w ww.thisispirate.com

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G I V E A M A N A F I S H A N D Y O U F E E D H I M F O R A D AY. G I V E H I M A W AT E R P R O O F B I B & B R A C E T R O U S E R S A N D J A C K E T W I T H H O O D AND HE CAN FISH FOR A LIFETIME.

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BIB & BR ACE TROUSERS & JACKET WITH HOOD A D - B OAT C H A R I T Y P RO J E C T The AD-BOAT project supports individuals and not groups. AD-BOAT focuses on giving help directly and quickly to their specific targets. On March 11th 2011 the tsunami hit the Tohoku coastal area, taking peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s families, homes and jobs away in the blink of an eye. The area affected by the disaster consists mostly of small port towns. We teamed up with AD-BOAT to help support the fisherman victims of this tragic disaster. Mr. Aki formed the idea of a fisherman suit which can be worn by the AD-BOAT fisherman 365 days a year. 100 Pieces have been designed and beautifully made, combining practicality and function with design and quality.

Jason Denham with Aki Negashi joined by 3 local fishermen

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C O L L U S I O N S : W E A L W AY S K N O W W H E N W E ’ V E M E T O U R N E X T ‘ C O L L U D E R ’ , B E C A U S E W H I L S T W E ’ R E ‘ W O R K I N G T O G E T H E R I N

S E C R E T ’ W E ’ R E S O E F F O R T L E S S LY C O N S P I R I N G T O C R E AT E S O M E T H I N G S P E C I A L T H AT W E S O M E T I M E S F O R G E T W E ’ R E ‘ W O R K I N G ’ AT ALL.

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D E N H A M A N D E N P LUS WORKING TOGETHER IN SECRET The EnPlus Collusion included the “495” (Denham store, Prinsengracht) Japanese Dry Selvedge, and the “459” (Precinct 5 store, Singel) American Standard and the revised staple two-pack white tee. Each of the three represents a meeting of the minds of EnPlus and Denham. Malvin Wix, Gee Schmidt and Edson Sabajao AKA Patta have a proven track-record of identifying, participating-in, filtering and combining style influences with a level of distinction and individuality that can only be born from lifetimes fully submersed in the unpredictable but ultimately harmonious mix of expressive cultures which have been capturing their imaginations since they were kids.

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EnPlus has emerged as the product-based expression of this next evolutionary stage. The crew approached us to collude on an inaugural program of co-branded items in honor of the birth of their shop and the emergence of their brand.

“ D E N H A M ’ S S E C O N D C O L L U S I O N A G A I N F O C U S E S O N P R O D U C T T H AT S T R E T C H E S T H E L A B E L’ S C E N T R A L D E S I G N C O N C E P T S L I G H T LY B E Y O N D I T S N AT U R A L B O U N D A R I E S . . .”

JA M E S O L I V E R | S L A M X H Y P E - Fe b . 2 01 1

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DENHAM AND A CHILD OF THE JAGO WORKING TOGETHER IN SECRET Our second collusion was with the the crew from “A Child of the Jago” in London. While Jago’s purist style ethic and uncompromising dandy-punk posture stand outside our traditional realm, their passion for product and shared English cultural pedigree made them the perfect catalyst for the new collusion. Denham’s new Mohawk pant was made using Jago’s signature deadstock British yardgoods. Jago’s signature Apache pant was re-imagined in Denham’s premium Japanese denim and selvedge chino qualities. These two crossbred models were joined by a commemorative “Graft” tee shirt to complete the grafted-together capsule.

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“ T H E P O P U L A R I T Y A N D I N T E R E S T I N S PA C E S U I T S R E F L E C T S T H E E X T R A O R D I N A R Y C U LT U R A L S TAT U S O F S PA C E F L I G H T.” A L L A N N E E D E L L , N AT I O N A L A I R A N D S PA C E M U S E U M

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DENHAM AND SXC WORKING TOGETHER IN SECRET Space Expedition Corporation (SXC) were interested in our ideas regarding future-utility and our ambition to fuse historical research with progression and invention. They were also looking for a partner to create a new training kit for their future-astronaut program. We were thrilled to ultimately be selected for the project. The brief was to develop an integrated training kit expanding on concepts which had already made appearances in our past collections. Together we elected to pursue the initiative both for SXC’s gear offering and within our own collection. Rendered in SXC’s official space-blue color, each element of the kit is part of the SXC package. But we also produced the designs in black and grey and integrated them within our Fall 2012 collection.

We normally author these articles in the collective; “we”. This time I’ve asked if I could share some of the background of this project from a slightly more personal perspective. -When spacemen come knocking, design-types like myself get pretty excited. Since the day Space Expedition Corporation first visited our studio some time ago, a lot of stuff has happened. The initiative culminated recently in a trip down to one of SXC’s airfields with a few of our team to join the SXC staff and programparticipants as well as Robert Wunsch and his posse from Highsnobiety to witness the L-39 module of their training regiment. Myself and some of the others have had our heads way up inside this project for several months, so we were extremely curious to see things come together. Robert and the Highsnobiety crew were curious enough to bring down their photo equipment and document the results. I was curious enough to accept SXC’s invitation to participate directly in the training session, eventually sliding into the tandem cockpit of an Albatross jet behind one of their flying aces; Ted Slijkerman.

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Liam Maher

S X C S PA C E T R A I N I N G K I T OFFICIAL TR AINING KIT FOR SXC

BERNAL T YPE 3

LINER T YPE 3

D -SXC#1

BOMBER SHELL

MODULAR INSULAR

F L I G H T PA N T

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I N S P I R E D B Y A V I N TA G E R O YA L A I R F O R C E H E AT E D F L I G H T S U I T, B U T R E - C U T A N D D E S I G N E D F O R A M O D E R N U T I L I T Y F L I G H T PA N T.

D -SXC #1 OFFICIAL TR AINING KIT FOR SXC

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ROBERT WUNSCH @ HIGHSNOBIET Y

This future-utility flight pant is a collusion with Space Expedition Corporation and part of their astronauts’ official training kit. Based on a 1950’s RAF flight-suit from our archive the design has been literally pulled back to the future.

“ T H E N E W L I N E R C O N T I N U E S I N T H E T R A D I T I O N O F D E N H A M ’ S E A R L I E R D E S I G N S , B U T T H E Y A D D E D H E AT- C U T B U T T O N H O L E S T O S L I M D O W N T H E R E V E R S I B L E Z I P P E R S Y S T E M . T H E N E W L I N E R T Y P E 3 R E V E R S E S F R O M S L AT E G R E Y T O G L O W - I N -T H E - D A R K , W H AT M I G H T C O M E I N H A N D Y I F T H E L I G H T S G O O U T I N S PA C E .”

D A A N R O U K E N S - N O R E S T F O R T H E O B S E S S E D - N O V. 2 0 1 2

BERNAL T YPE 3 | LINER T YPE 3 OFFICIAL TR AINING KIT FOR SXC

This latest edition converts to a button-in lining for our shell jackets. Reversible to glow-in-the-dark (we’re not kidding).

ROBERT WUNSCH @ HIGHSNOBIET Y

When commissioned by Space Expedition Corporation to create their astronauts’ official training kit we set our sights on re-inventing the iconic USAF MA-1 jacket. We employed innovations like our Tri-Swing action back to lower the profile and streamlined the detailing for the space-age.

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“ L AV E L L E ’ S A N D D E N H A M ’ S U N I Q U E TA K E O N A T R A D I T I O N A L M 6 5 F I S H TA I L PA R K A , F E AT U R I N G I N D I G O R U B B E R I Z E D N Y L O N F R O M I TA LY, H A N D - PA I N T E D D E TA I L , S E E R S U C K E R L I N I N G , E A S I LY A C C E S S I B L E P O C K E T S A N D F L E E C E F R O M T H E C A N A D I A N A R M Y. N O T T O M E N T I O N T H E A C C O M PA N Y I N G PA I R O F H E A D P H O N E S F R O M F R E N D S .”

S L A M X H Y P E - N O V. 2 0 1 1

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A D V I S O R PA R K A WORKING TOGETHER IN SECRET

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I N S P I R E D B Y J A M E S L AV E L L E . Unlike the double-label “Collusion” projects with A Child of the Jago and EnPlus which proceeded it, the Advisor Parka INSPIRED BY J.L. Edition was motivated more by pure inspiration. We, being long time fans of Lavelle’s work, didn’t have to dig too deep to come up with their vision on a J.L. wardrobe staple; an interpretation of the classic M51 Fishtail Parka Shell. The jacket is constructed from indigo-rubberized nylon with a sweatshirt hood and hand-painted tiger-stripe camo lining with hidden mirror-written lyrical references to one of Lavelle’s songs. Together with the Frends Light Headphone and indigo dipped tee, the ‘inspired by J. Lavelle’ special edition collusion represents the heart of J.L. and the hands of Denham.

“ W I T H T H O S E T R A D I T I O N A L T R AV E L I N G T R U N K S I N M I N D F R O M T H E D AY S W H E N T R AV E L W A S A B I T M O R E G L A M O R O U S T H A N A P R I N T E D E -T I C K E T, T H I S I S A Q U A L I T Y P I E C E O F C R A F T S M A N S H I P W I T H M O R E D R A W E R S , S H E LV E S , E N G I N E E R E D F I X I N G S A N D I N T E R C O N N E C T E D J O I N T S T H E N Y O U C A N S H A K E A S T I C K AT.”

SELECTISM - DEC. 2011

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GRAEME HUNTER

THE JOURNEYMAN TRUNK WORKING TOGETHER IN SECRET A S T E A M E R T R U N K F O R A J E A N M A K E R . In an early blog posting about our Made in England denim and leather bags, we rhapsodized about the ingenuity of early luggage design with descriptions of Louis Vuitton’s pioneering innovations. Flash forward to the present day and we’re proud that our own modest approach to modern utility design caught the attention of the fledgling luxury furniture maker, Method Design in Scotland. We rant on and on about “worshipping tradition while destroying convention” while Callum Robinson and Marisa Giannasi had been busy crafting their own design concept based on exactly the same creative ethos. Honestly we didn’t contribute that much to the project beyond cheering Callum and Marisa on from the sidelines as they undertook some 300+ hours of pure craft creation to realize our combined vision.

GRAEME HUNTER

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D E N H A M A N D E VA S C H R E U D E R W E PA R T T O M E E T A G A I N What ’s the Sound of One Hand Clapping? - It ’s the sound of a missed opportunity, -sort of like a scissor with a single blade. Within the Denham studio there is a fascination with scissors. It ’s rooted in the notion that two independent parts moving in apparently opposite directions could work in perfect harmony. Designers would be lost without them. That harmony is also symbolic of collaborations between designers. Denham’s collaboration with celebrated Dutch jewelry designer Eva Schreuder is brought to life in three distinct silhouettes for women; the classic buttonholer scissors, a ciseaux primitif and Denham’s own unique

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scissor emblem. These timeless cameos have been subjected to Eva’s delicately artisan interpretation rendered in rich copper.

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MARICHELLE â&#x20AC;&#x153; M A R I C H E L L E , M Y B E L L E . . . .T H E S E A R E W O R D S T H A T G O T O G E T H E R W E L Lâ&#x20AC;? Marichelle was born in Amsterdam in 1966. After finishing Law School she started her career as a professional lawyer. Following her inner voice, she took courses in jewelry AND discovered a passion for jewelry making. First she made pieces for private clients, BUT More and more people discovered the purity and simplicity of her works WHICH MADE ENCOURAGED HER TO START her own label. All the creations ARE made of pure gold/ silver and combined with waxed Irish linen cord, are a kind of modern delicacy. They look great layered up together or can be worn alone for simple luxury. All the work is hand-made. Marichelle has developed a special edition for DENHAM with a pure gold scissor combined with waxed Irish linen cord and a hematite or coral stone closure.

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DENHAM SCENTED CANDLE - SMELLS LIKE JEAN SPIRIT

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BAGISM THE HANDBAGISM AND THE GLADBAGISM Bagism is a project from Amsterdam based designer Marjel van Tilborg. When she received the offer to take over the renowned ‘bag workshop Jaspers’ she took the opportunity. The last scion of this generation of bag manufacturers, started in 1928, learned her the ins and outs of the craft and since 2008 she’s building (and learning by doing in a steady pace) the Bagism brand. For Marjel designing bags is her passion and a way to develop her creativity in the most natural way. The bags have been received very well by an international league of design experts and is available at the Museum of Art and Design in New York and selected design-shops in the Netherlands and Belgium. FOR THE FALL COLLECTION WE SHARED CREATIVE ENREGY TO MAKE A LEATHER SHOPPER THAT INCORPORATED A CHAMBRAY SELVEDGE OUTER, TOGETHER WITH AN ART OF THE SCISSOR PRINTED LINER.

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S A K P L U S YA K A S P O N TA N E O U S C O L L A B O R A T I O N We were very pleasantly surprised when a Japanese shoemaker, currently living in Florence, walked into our store on Wednesday afternoon and even more surprised when he introduced himself as Ryusaka Himura (aka SAK who was the man behind the Converse SAK x JACK PURCELL colab we had in store). After seeing his shoes on our website, a humble Ryusaka on a break from work came to the store just to ‘have a look’ and ended up getting the full Denham treatment. Its obvious Ryusaka shares the DENHAM philosophy of Worship Tradition Destroy Convention. He was wearing a vintage jean of his own modified with a leather pocket. An apt move for a cordwainer, but that pocket had 5-points and several of ours have 7. He was 110% the gentleman when we bullied him into a spontaneous collaboration, inspired by his jean but built on one of ours. We happened to have some yak leather in the back (we’re not kidding) courtesy of our pal Panos from Danna Tanneries. It turned out to be just the thing to cut a 7-point pocket from.

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Our CUTTER+ VJS was transformed on the spot into a one-of-a-kind artisan fusion of DENHAM and SAK. He left in a pair of our Grades and we received a cool new addition to the Denham Garment Library.

D E N H A M M E E T S A N I A R Y | C U S T O M - M A D E B A G S F O R I S E TA N X B E G I N M A G A Z I N E

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DENHAM MEETS ABREPTION | INSPIRED BY THE D.G.L.

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LOUIS VUITTON ‘STEAMER BAG’ 1901 (Sourced USA)

BANKER CASH CARRY BAG 1944 (Sourced USA)

US AIR FORCE PILOT ’S MAP CARRY CASE WWII (Sourced USA)

A B R E P T I O N I S A G O L D M I N E . PA U L I S A B A G M A K E R O F T H E H I G H E S T C A L I B R E . PA U L M A K E S T H E B E S T O F T H E B E S T, H E I S T H E E X P E R T IN CUSTOM MAKING LUXURY ACCESSORIES, HUNTING, SHOOTING, FISHING, C AMER A AND INSTRUMENT C ASES. ABREPTION IS A PROUD ADVERT FOR ONE OF THE FEW REMAINING BAG MAKERS LEFT IN ENGL AND. FA L L ( 0 9 )

MADE IN ENGLAND

D E N I M / L E AT H E R S T E A M E R B A G

D E N I M / L E AT H E R C A R R Y B A G

D E N I M / L E AT H E R C A R R Y C A S E

MADE IN ENGL AND BY ABREPTION

Inspired by the original LOUIS VUITTON 1901 “steamer bag”. Based on the first collapsible bag Louis Vuitton designed originally for steam travel. BRIDAL hand painted leather. Selvedge 14oz Denim. Solid brass feet. Vulcanised rubber cotton lining.

Based on the original 1944 USA banker cash carry bag. Bridal hand painted leather. Selvedge 14oz denim. Vulcanised rubber cotton lining.

Based on the original WWII USAF 1940’s Pilot map carry case. BRIDAL hand painted leather. Selvedge 14oz denim. Vulcanised rubber cotton lining.

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C A N VA S B O M B A R D I E R S B A G

C A N VA S T O O L B A G

L E AT H E R S H O U L D E R B A G

INSPIRED BY THE D.G.L.

Canvas and washed leather with multi pocket interior.

Masons tool bag - built with the original metal frame interior and leather base.

US POST bag in washed leather with foam shoulder strap.

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L E AT H E R / I N D I G O C H A M B R AY R U C K S A C K

B R I D A L L E AT H E R T O T E

TOT E

DESIGNED IN AMSTERDAM, MADE IN ENGL AND

ALL BAGS TO ALL PEOPLE

Inspired equally by fine leather goods as by vintage Swiss alpine packs, this design employs Denham’s signature 7-Point pocket design to lend shape to the main cover-flap. The bag is made in England in a combination of rugged cotton duck and classic bridal leather finished with solid brass hardware. It is fully lined and features a secure inner pocket.

This premium edition of our popular snap-over tote bag is made in England in a combination of rugged cotton duck and classic bridal leather finished with solid brass hardware. It is fully lined and features a secure inner pocket as well as two end-panel access pockets.

The simplest design allows the greatest flexibility. Comfortable padded carry straps long enough to throw a shoulder through. It is fully lined and features a secure inner pocket as well as two end-panel access pockets.

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F L A S H Y E L L O W L E AT H E R S H O P P E R

L E AT H E R / D E N I M R E V E R S I B L E B A G

Blue shopper with purse

Flash yellow shopper with purse

Denim / leather reversible shopper

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B L U E L E AT H E R S H O P P E R DESIGNED BY BAGISM, AMSTERDAM

W H I T E B O O K S ; B L A C K B O O K S ; B LU E B O O K S ; M OT H E R B O O K S ; H A N D C U T D O U B L E - F RO N T CO V E R S ; H A R D - B A C K E D D O U B L E - F RO N T C O V E R S ; M - F O L D B R O C H U R E S ; P O S T E R S ; L O O S E S H E E T A R T PA C K ; 2 L AY E R E D E P O X Y R E S I N S C I S S O R L O G O S , S A D D L E S T I T C H ; C A H I E R

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S T I TC H . . . . 5 Y E A R S D O C U M E N T E D I N T H E B O O K M A K I N G .

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情熱と発明のデニムデニムにはさまざまな愛し方がある。たとえば、強烈な魅力を発するヴィンテージのディテールを見つけたとしよう。ジーンズ・メーカーとして、そこに敬意を表すにはどうすればいいのか……。デンハムは発明をする。新たな発明こそが、オリジナルへの最大のリスペクトであるとデンハムは考える。今いちばんパッションを感じるデニム・ブランド、それがデンハムだ。World Photo Press発行『WORKWEAR No.6』2012年 1月5日より引用

FIRST PRINT - LIMITED EDITION OF 1000 PRODUCED in 2012 by BOOXS (www.booxs.nl)

COPYRIGHT © DENHAM, 2012 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronical, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of DENHAM the Jeanmaker.

IMAGE RETOUCHING COLORSET, Amsterdam, The Netherlands

BOOK BINDING BOEKBINDERIJ VAN MIERLO, Nijmegen, The Netherlands

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ISBN-978-90-79365-03-6