SEASONS 1-6 Spring Summer (09) - Autumn Winter (11)
D E N H A M : H I S ( TO RY )
DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y
D E S I G N D E S I G N - M OT H E R B O O K “ M A K I N G O F ”
p.22
p.23
DENHAM DESIGN : THE DESIGN STUDIO One step inside the DENHAM design studio and even a casual observer can sense what’s going on. Fewer than half-a - dozen creatives with a combined experience of over half of century in the field of workwear and utility garment design apparently share a deep seated view that now it is their turn.
Replacing the standard chatter of trend analysis and market tactics is the throb of music, the reassuring whir of an industrial sewing machine, the gnashing of scissor blades and more mysterious sounds of experimentation, all which combine to create a n a t m o s p h e r e t h a t i s e q u a l p a r t s w o r k s h o p , l a b o r a t o r y, r e s e a r c h c e n t e r a n d d y n a m i c m o d e r n d e s i g n a t e l i e r.
B o r n i n t h e 6 0 ’ s a n d 7 0 ’ s a n d w e a n e d o n t h e d e s i g n c u ltures of the 80’s, 90’s and 00’s they share a universal and passionate culture that transcends their individual regional perspectives. Despite having cut their creative teeth in the rich and varying landscapes of the UK, Europe and the US they rarely require extensive dialog to determine direction.
The team is still young and naïve enough to try new approaches. And they ’re still young enough to work with the sometimes breakneck momentum associated with youthful enthusiasm. But they’re also experienced enough to work with a confidence a n d d i s c i p l i n e t h a t e n s u r e s a c o n s t a n t f o c u s o n q u a l i t y, w o r k m a n ship and execution. For them the truth is in the details.
“ M OT H E R B O O K O F CO N T E N T S ” B O O K 6 .1 “ A R E C O L L E C T I O N ”
“ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” D e s i g n s i g n a t u r e p .1 0 -1 3
D E TA I L I N G - Keeping tabs; rivet saddle s; selvedge; american vs. europe an fly ; boxed button holes; tailored interior; dart compression; binding ; corsetr y ; ring & eye buttons
p .1 4 -1 5
W E B S I T E - 1 ye ar anniversar y
p .1 6 -1 9
T R A D E FA I R S - Spring Summer ( 11) Pitti Uomo; Bre ad & Butter Berlin
p.20-21
J A S O N D E N H A M - The je anmaker
“ WO R S H I P T R A D I T I O N ” Design mantra p.24-25
D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y - Acquisitions
p.26-27
D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y - She ar Archive
p.28-29
D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A R Y - Too ls of the Trade
p.30-31
H E R I TA G E M AT E R I A L S - “ Tradition teaches quality ” Fox Brothers; British Millerain;
p.32- 41
R E - C U T T E X T I L E S - Designed in Time
p .4 2 - 4 3
J A PA N T E X T I L E S - 100% Made in Japan
p .4 4 - 4 5
P R E S S R E P O R T S - RE - CUT / 1st Edition at PRESENT, London
Kaihara Denim; Talon Zippers
“ D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N ” Design mantra p .4 8 - 4 9
D E N H A M I N N O VAT I O N S - Cable connection; drop yoke; 7 point pocket; reverse tape button; flip snap cuff; piggy back pocket; removable cowl; modversible zipper; tri-swing
p.50-53
D E S T R O Y C O N V E N T I O N - Convention Prevents Progress
p.54-55
V I R G I N D E N I M - Unspoiled Denim for Freshness
p.56-57
SCISSOR ART
“DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y ” Design philosophy p.60- 61
I TA LY L A U N D R Y - Progressive washing
p.62- 67
S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T S O F D E N H A M I C O N M O D E L S
p .7 0 -7 1
D E N H A M T E A M - 52 people; 11 countries
p .7 2 -7 3
D E N H A M S T O R E S - 3 Stores high and rising
p .7 4 -7 9
H O U S E O F L O N D O N - 4 floors. 1 party.
p.80-81
P R E S S R E P O R T S - London store open ing
p.82-83
P R E S S R E P O R T S - Drapers Record : Best Store Review
p.84
H O U S E G U E S T A R T I S T - 1. Alljan Moehamad. 2. Shooting the Breeze
p.85
BUTCHER X DENHAM
p.86 - 87
C O L L U S I O N - Working Together in Secret - 1.Enplus. 2. Child of the Jago
p.88-91
S A K T H E S H O E M A K E R meets D E N H A M T H E J E A N M A K E R
p.92
V I R G I N - Home wash
p.93
S C I S S O R I C O N - New chainstitch logo
Grain shirt; Commission jacket; Spy jacket; Major gilette; Cutter+ je an; Skinny+ je an
“DENHAM DESIGN” Autumn Winter (11)
B O O K 6 “ G R A F M E E T S N AU T I LUS ”
p.94-95
F I T I S E V E R Y T H I N G - AW( 11) Mens over view
p.96 -97
F I T I S E V E R Y T H I N G - AW( 11) Womens over view
p.98-99
D E N I M W H E E L - AW( 11) Italy Laundr y ; Japan Textiles; Virgin
p .1 0 0 -1 0 1
A W ( 1 1 ) C O L L E C T I O N - Mens over view
p .1 0 2 -1 0 3
A W ( 1 1 ) C O L L E C T I O N - Womens over view
p .1 0 4 -1 0 5
A W ( 1 1 ) C O L L E C T I O N - Belts over view
p .1 0 6 -1 0 7
S E A S O N R E L E A S E - AW( 11)
p .1 0 8 -1 1 8
D E N I M - AW( 11) men
p .1 1 9 -1 3 1
C O L L E C T I O N I N T R O D U C T I O N - MEN - Geometric LIne Shape - geometric; restrained tailoring; “ The Dart” Touch - Dr y crunch; full bodied; compact; semi- glide Optic - heritage quality ; aged effects; soaked/sprayed
p .1 3 2 -1 5 1
S E L E C T E D C O L L E C T I O N R E V I E W - AW( 11) men
p .1 5 2 -1 5 4
T- S H I R T S T R I K E - O F F B O O K - AW( 1 1)
p .1 5 8 -1 5 9
S E A S O N R E L E A S E - AW( 11)
p .1 6 0 -1 6 5
D E N I M - AW( 11) women
p .1 6 6 -1 7 7
C O L L E C T I O N I N T R O D U C T I O N - WOMEN - Organic Line Shape - Organic lines; feminine tailoring; “ The Corset” Touch - Caress her; natural drape; soft touch; glide; delicate casual; transparent/weightless Optic - Surface pattern (stripe/print/check); transparencies; crafted
p .1 7 8 -1 9 7 p .1 9 8
S E L E C T E D C O L L E C T I O N R E V I E W - AW( 11) women D E N H A M C O N TA C T
AUTUMN WINTER COLLECTION 2011 “ L E T ’S P U S H T H I N G S F O RWA R D ” M i k e S k i n n e r, T h e S t r e e t s
B O O K 6 : “ G R A F M E E T S N AU T I LUS ”
DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y
A 6 S E A S O N OV E RV I E W
(6.1) B O O K 6 .1 : “ A R E C O L L E C T I O N ”
DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y
DENHAM Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“First of all, what is the histor y behind you and the brand?”
I have been in Jeans all my life. Its what I love to do – I studied in M a n c h e s t e r. I l e f t c o l l e g e o n F r i d a y m o v e d t o L o n d o n o n S a t u r d a y a n d s t a r t e d w o r k i n g i n t h e d e n i m b u s i n e s s o n M o n d a y. I h a v e n ’ t stopped since and I don’t intend to for a while yet.
IT ’S ABOUT BAL ANCE Our views are idiosyncratic. Jason has worked as a jeanmaker his entire adult life. His singular experience continues to forge a completely unique design ethic. The depth, specificity and eclecticism of his individual point- of-view is matched only by the frenetic obsession demonstrated by e a c h m e m b e r o f o u r t e a m . We ’ r e a g r o u p o f i n d e p e n d e n t personalities with shared compulsions and a common zeal. We a r g u e . We d i s p u t e . We d e b a t e . We p r ov o ke . We a n t a g o nise, challenge and confront But we enter the fray committed to fighting on behalf of T H E B A L A N C E . We s u b s c r i b e t o a c o u p l e o f c o m m o n b e liefs and we aspire to manifest them in careful harmony: WORSHIP TRADITION.
It’s our shared tradition that has taught us the fundamental nat u r e o f q u a l i t y. T h e r e a s o n i t t a k e s g e n e r a t i o n s t o e s t a b l i s h g r e a t traditions is because quality is never simple. Anyone who says different, is full of shit. Quality is the source of the fibres before they ’re spun into yarn. It is about weave and knit specifications. It’s about stitch-lengths and construction techniques. It is about dyeing and laundering processes. It is about hardware, closures, bindings and finishes. It’s about the frontside, the backside, the inside, the right side and the other side. It’s not simple, it’s complex. But when you get a taste, it quickly becomes an addiction.
DENHAM DESIGN : A 3 LEGGED STOOL 1 ) T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S D e s i g n s i g n a t u r e 2 ) W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N : D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N Design mantra 3) DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y Design philosophy
“ E V E N W H E N W E ’ R E N OT M A K I N G J E A N S , W E ’ R E S T I L L J E A N M A K E R S ”
“ You say ever ything sounds the same. There’s no excuses my friend - let’s push things forward”
Mike Skinner ( The Streets)
(6.1)
“A S I X [6 ] S E A S O N
DESIGN SIG
“ THE TRUTH IS I
N RECOLLECTION
G N AT U R E :
I N T H E D E TA I L S ”
(6.1)
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ”
K E E P I N G TA B S
L E AT H E R R I V E T S A D D L E S
S E LV E D G E
The strapdown u p g ra d e to t h e o r i g i n a l p o lo -f i e l d innovation kee p i n g co l l a r s , c u f f- h o l e s , b e l t s a n d pocket- content s i n p l a ce .
Wo r k w e a r co nv e n t i o n w a s d e s t roye d i n 1 87 3 w h en m e t a l r i v e t s ( fo r m e r ly re s e r v e d fo r s l a m m i n g to g e t h e r e n g i n e s a n d h o r s e b l a n ke t s ) w e re p u t on a d e n i m g a r m e n t fo r t h e f i r s t t i m e . We ’ v e p u s h ed t h e i d e a o n e s te p f u r t h e r a d d i n g a l e a t h e r s a d d le to i n c re a s e d u ra b i l i t y & co m fo r t .
The “self- edge” that runs the length of the long edges of a bolt of cloth. To maximize the use of the whole cloth, the selvedge’s trademark striped edge patterns were traditionally hidden in the construction to avoid wasting fabric.
D E N H A M G A R MENT LIBR ARY aquisition S o u rce : T h e I v y Look | Creighton shirt advert ( 1962)
DENHAM GARMENT LIBR ARY aquisition
D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A RY a q u i s i t i o n D I E S E L “ O l d G lo r y ”
DENIM
mens je an. SS( 11)
GR ADER
MARLON
mens swe at. AW( 11)
GR AIN
m e n s j e a n . AW ( 1 1 )
MEN
GR ADER
GRAIN
m e n s s hirt. AW( 11)
m e n s s h i r t . AW ( 1 1 )
WOMEN
LO O S E +
(6.1)
wo m ens T-shirt. AW( 11)
BEGA+
BOYFRIEND
womens jacket. AW( 11)
WORKWEAR
“ Cut your coat to suit your cloth.”
W. R . Inge
wo m e n s j e a n . AW ( 1 1 )
p .1 0
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ”
T H E A M E R I C A N F LY
T H E E U R O P E A N F LY
This co n s t r u c t i o n “ t u r n s t h e f a b r i c in s i d e “ a n d c l e a n f i n i s h e s 1 l aye r o f denim . T h e a d v a n t a g e o f t h i s i s l e s s f a b r i c / b u l k a n d a c l e a n o p t i c . T h i s tradit i o n w a s b o r n o u t o f t h e e q u i p m e n t a t t h e t i m e a n d t h i s o p e ra t i o n was li ke ly s ew n o n a 1 9 4 0 ’s U N I O N S P E C I A L m a c h i n e w i t h fo l d e r g u a rd .
T h i s i s d o u ble layered and “ Bagged out “ The advantage of this is a more ro b u s t f ly which protects the zip and buttons, this operation is stitched o n a t ra d i t i onal lockstitch machine.
D E N HAM GARMENT LIBR ARY aquisition 1 9 4 0’s X X LEVIS
DENHAM GA R M E N T L I B R A RY a q u i s i t i o n Late 1980’s D I E S E L j e a n
FLY FACING
FLY FACING
Reve r se fabric fly facing
Double layered f ly f a c i n g
BURIED BAR TACK
BURIED BAR TACK
B u r i e d bar tack on inside fly
Buried bar tac k o n i n s i d e f ly
T WIN STITCH
CROSS STITCH
Re i n forced cross stitch at front fly
Twin stitch rei n fo rce m e n t a t f ro n t f ly
WORKWEAR
“I wish I had invented blue jeans. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity - all I hope for in my clothes”
Yves Saint Laurent
(6.1)
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“ Yo u ’ v e b r o u g h t e l e m e n t s o f t a i l o r i n g i n t o y o u r d e n i m range, for instance darting and boxed buttonholes. These are traditional details, but when they ’re applied to jeans the result seems ver y unusual. Do you think that the idea of the traditional jean is outdated now ?”
“ Ye s a n d n o . I t s w e i r d b e c a u s e i f y o u l o o k b a c k t o t h e f i r s t w o r k p a n t s m a d e i n 1 8 5 0 t h e y w e r e s e r i o u s l y t a i l o r e d . Ta i l o r i n g c a m e b e f o r e w o r k w e a r. I t w a s t a i l o r i n g t e c h n i q u e s t h a t w e r e a d o p t e d a n d r e i n v e n t e d i n e a r l y j e a n s w e a r. W e t r y a n d a d o p t t e c h n i q u e s t h a t s u i t j e a n s c u l t u r e i n 2 0 1 0 .”
BOXED BUTTON HOLES
TA I L O R E D I N T E R I O R
DA RT P O I N T CO M P R E S S I O N
Borrowed from S av i l e Row t a i lo r i n g , e l i m i n a te s raw- edges (ev e n g re a t b u t to n - h o l e s a re cu tthrough and “b a n d a g e d ” w i t h ov e r- s t i tc h i n g ) , and increases d u ra b i l i t y a n d e a s e - o f- u s e .
F u l ly f i n i s h e d t a i lo re d i n te r i o r w a i s t b a n d . I n s p i re d by S av i l e Row, fo r b o t h s t re n g t h a n d co m fo r t .
REG’D (TM) PENDING
D E N H A M G A R MENT LIBR ARY aquisition
DENHAM GARMENT LIBR ARY aquisition C AN’ T BUST ‘EM He av y Black Twill Cinch-Back
Tailorwise garment shape - creation with the problem of dart-point puckering resolved via backside compression.
D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A RY a q u i s i t i o n D a n i s h M i l i t a r y D r ys u i t
DENIM
SKIN
m e n s j e a n. SS( 11)
APACHE
mens je an. AW( 11)
BOYFRIEND
wo m e n s j e a n . AW ( 1 1 )
MEN
LO N G S H O R E
mens jacket. AW( 11)
NAUTILUS
mens jacket. AW( 11)
COMMANDER
m e n s j a c ke t . AW ( 1 1 )
WOMEN
LO L A
(6.1)
wo m e n s jacket. AW( 11)
MAR A
womens jacket. AW( 11)
TA I L O R I N G
BARNEY+
wo m e n s T. AW ( 1 1 )
p .1 2
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ”
BINDING
CO R S E T RY
RING & EYE BUTTON
A tech n i q u e b o r row e d f ro m t a i lo r i n g t ra d i t i o n s , that p ro te c t s ra w s e a m e d g e s . B y b i n d i n g s e a m s togeth e r w i t h a s e l f- o r co n t ra s t f a b r i c , to i n crease d u ra b i l i t y a n d o f fe r a c l e a n i n te r i o r a s pect.
F u l ly f i n i s h e d t a i lo re d i n te r i o r. I n s p i re d by 1 9 t h ce n t u r y s e a m s te r s & French co r s e t r y d e s i g n , fo r b o t h s t re n g t h a n d comfort.
An upgrade to the already rare ringback sys tem with 2-part eyelets to seal the perforation perimeter. Strong as hell, low-mass, easy to repair/replace. Performance no longer hanging by a “ thread”.
DENHAM GARMENT LIBR ARY aquisition 19th centruy French Corset
D E N H A M G A R M E N T L I B R A RY a q u i s i t i o n
MEN
D E N HAM GARMENT LIBR ARY aquisition
REG’D (TM) PENDING
GR AIN
mens jacket. AW( 11)
m e n s s h i r t . AW ( 1 1 )
WOMEN
N AU T I LUS
BEAG+
p .1 3
womens jacket. AW( 11)
LOL A
womens jacket. AW( 11)
PERSIA
wo m e n s s h i r t . AW ( 1 1 )
TA I L O R I N G
“If you are out to describe the truth, leave elegance to the tailor.”
Albert Einstein
(6.1)
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” - W E B S I T E Already recognized for its own approach to worshiping tradition and destroying convention and slated for publication i n t h e i n t e r n a t i o n a l C r e a t i v e R e v i e w, D e n h a m ’ s w e b s i t e i s o r g a n i z e d t o s i m p l y a l l o w v i s i t o r s t o “ l o o k c l o s e ” -To i n spire anyone interested to take the time to examine the label’s products, their details and their genuine inspirations and backstories. The format is as basic and intuitive as a f r i e n d ’ s b o o k s h e l f. S c a n t h e t i t l e s , o p e n u p a s t o r y t h a t catches your eye and take a minute to get to know more. S o m e s t o r i e s m a y b e b r i e f, o t h e r s m a y b e j a m - p a c k e d w i t h information. It depends on the subject.
And visitors can always throw a stor y back on the shelf in order to pull another one down. The user is always in control. Information i s p r e s e n t e d w i t h n e a r l y a b s o l u t e t r a n s p a r e n c y. T h e r e a r e n o m a r keting agencies or copy writers filtering the message. The team all contributes directly to the effort and the result is informative, textured and sometimes surprising. The site provides a frame work within which each collection is presented, and easy access is given to online shopping. But there is an equal investment made to sharing the less commercially motivated passions of the brand in categories like the online Denham Garment Librar y and Cutter ’s Council forum.
JA N UA RY
F E B RUA RY
MARCH
APRIL
M AY
JUNE
J U LY
AU G US T
SEPTEMBER
OCTOBER
NOVEMBER
DECEMBER
1 Y E A R W E B S I T E A N N I V E R S A RY (6.1)
w w w.denhamthejeanmaker.com
p .1 4
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” - W E B S I T E
p .1 5
1 2 M O N T H S . 1 5 0 , 0 0 0 V I S I T S . 8 5 0 , 0 0 0 PA G E V I E W S . 1 4 1 C O U N T R I E S . 1 A W A R D w w w.denhamthejeanmaker.com
(6.1)
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” - P I T T I , J U LY 2 0 1 0
(6.1)
p .1 6
p .1 7
(6.1)
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” - B R E A D & B U T T E R , J U LY 2 0 1 0
(6.1)
p .1 8
p .1 9
(6.1)
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” - P R E S S R E P O R T S G O D FAT H E R S O F D E N I M . W E A R . J U LY 2 0 1 0
(6.1)
p.20
D E S I G N S I G N AT U R E : “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” - P R E S S R E P O R T S D R A P E R S R E C O R D I N T E R V I E W. N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 0
p.21
(6.1)
“A S I X [6 ] S E A S O N
DESIGN M
“ WORSHIP T
N RECOLLECTION
MANTRA :
TRADITION”
(6.1)
D E S I G N M A N T R A : W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - “ I N S P I R AT I O N F R O M T H E D . G . L .” The process of making begins with looking. A humbling sense that we can never look “ too closely ” at any of the hundreds and hundreds of vintage specimens within the D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b r a r y, t h a t i n s p i r e s u s t o e x p l o r e e v e r y detail on the best and most iconic denim, casual and utility g a r m e n t e x a m p l e s . We ’ r e s t r i v i n g t o r e c r e a t e t h i s c l o t h i n g ’ s t i m e l e s s w e a r a b i l i t y, a d d t o i t s r i c h s t y l e - c u l t u r e a n d contribute to its tradition of hard-won incremental innovation... a process that has sometimes taken centuries to evolve.
V I N T A G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
British desert field jacket
V I N T A G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
British military jump suit
V I N T A G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Gloverall duffle “convoy ” coat
(6.1)
W e ’ r e w o r k i n g t o c r e a t e s o m e t h i n g u n c o m p r o m i s i n g l y n e w, w h i l s t also determined to root it in the strongest possible foundation. The habit of looking closely reminds us that it takes generations to establish a great tradition and achieving quality is never simple. Quality is the source of the fibers before they are spun into yarn. It is about weaving specifications, construction techniques, dyeing and laundering processes. It is about hardware, closures, labelling and finishes. It is about the front side, the backside, the inside, the right side and the other side. It ‘s not simple, It’s complicated. But ultimately for DENHAM it’s become addictive.
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1980’s C& A Fashioned Overcoat
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1940’s Zelinka-Matlick new look sportcoat
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
B r i t i s h R . A . F. a i r s u i t
ACQUISITIONS FOR THE D.G.L.
AUT UMN WINTER ( 11) : “Graf meets Nautilus”
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1950’s USA baseball jacket
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1939 Japanese work pant
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Belstaff 1920’s biker jacket
p.24
D E S I G N M A N T R A : W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - “ I N S P I R AT I O N F R O M T H E D . G . L .” Before we created we collected. But we collect not just to acquire; we collect to examine, analyze, and to learn. Decades in the making, the DENHAM GARMENT LIBR ARY supplies the raw material for our research, design and dev e l o p m e n t . We c a n’ t b e n e f i t f r o m t a i l o r i n g t r a d i t i o n s u n l e s s w e u n d e r s t a n d t h e m b e t t e r, a n d n e w i d e a s c r u m b l e i f they ’re not built on a strong foundation.
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
W W2 era USSR tank navigators hat
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Danish nav y deep sea diving suit
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
USSR quilted tank jacket
p.25
Each item in the library tells a story and each one represents a s t a r t i n g - p o i n t fo r o u r c o l l e c t i o n s . We k n o w o u r p r e d e c e s s o r s , o u r c o n t e m p o r a r i e s a n d o u r c o m p e t i t o r s . We t a ke i n s p i r a t i o n f r o m anyone and any place producing relevant ideas but we’re never content simply to reproduce someone else’s approach even if that p e r s o n ’ s n a m e h a s b e e n s a f e l y l o s t t o h i s t o r y. T h e r e s e a r c h f e e d s our passion and our passion is to progress our tradition ever forward.
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1940’s French work pant “home repair”
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Swedish mountain parka
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1940’s X X LEVIS jean
ACQUISITIONS FOR THE D.G.L.
“A librar y implies an act of faith”
V i c tor Hugo
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
French smocked flight suit
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Swedish army recreation shirt
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
1940’s athletics shirt
(6.1)
DESIGN MANTR A : WORSHIP TR ADITION - “ TOOLS OF THE TR ADE ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“ The Shoreditch store is a treasure trove of vintage tailors’ scissors, sewing machines and cotton reels. Is it important for you that ever y aspect of the brand displays this attention to detail?”
(6.1)
Ye s , t h e m o t t o a b o v e t h e w i n d o w a s y o u w a l k i n t o t h e s t o r e s a y s “ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” t h i s i s w h a t o u r b r a n d i s a l l a b o u t . I h av e c o l l e c t e d t a i l o r s s c i s s o r s fo r a l o n g t i m e , o u r c o ll e c t i o n d a t e s f r o m 1 5 5 0 t o t h e p r e s e n t d a y. I t s i m p o r t a n t t o w o r ship tradition however its also important to destroy convention but that’s another question...
ACQUISITIONS FOR THE D.G.L. Shear Archive
p.26
ACQUISITIONS FOR THE D.G.L.
“ O u r l i b r a r y i s n ev e r o w n e d . We a r e c u s t o d i a n s o f t r a d i t i o n s fo r a f u t u r e g e n e r a t i o n”
Ali Kirby
(6.1)
DESIGN MANTR A : WORSHIP TR ADITION - “ TOOLS OF THE TR ADE ”
(6.1)
“ H O M E R E PA I R ” D A R N I N G M A C H I N E SINGER
p.28
DESIGN MANTR A : WORSHIP TR ADITION - “ TOOLS OF THE TR ADE ”
LO C K S T I TC H M AC H I N E DURKOPP
(6.1)
D E S I G N M A N T R A : WO R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - “ T R A D I T I O N T E AC H E S Q UA L I T Y ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“Since ever y brand and its dog seem to be invoking heritage and tradition these days, do you feel that this more irreverent approach sets you apart from the pack?”
“For sure, the high street is even vintage inspired these days. Nigel Cabourn, Gitman Brothers and RRL are recreating vintage better than anyone – leave it to them we are are busy trying to c r e a t e s o m e t h i n g n e w.”
F OX BROTHERS : “Made in England”
“Established in 1772 by Thomas Fox, Fox Brothers is one of only a hand full of working cloth mills left in the UK. Supplying luxur y woollen cloth to London’s Savile Row tailors, and the militar y for nearly 250 years. Fox Brothers continues to produce fine woollen fabrics i n We l l i n g t o n , S o m e r s e t , i n t h e We s t o f E n g l a n d .
Pat ro n : S i r W i n s to n C h u rc h i l l
8 5 2 miles of Leg wrap fabric for W W1
LONGSHORE
men s j a c ke t AW ( 1 1 )
B R ITISH MILLER AIN : “Made in England”
British Millerain Co. Ltd. has specialised in the manufacture of performance fabrics since 1880. Whilst the technology has changed over the years, British Millerain remains faithful to its roots where waterproof and water resistant fabrics have ret a i n e d t h e i r p o p u l a r i t y. T h r o u g h the war years they supplied fabrics for use by British troops, through to the fabrics revolution when synthetics emerged.
Wa x p ro o f i n g p ro te c t i o n
(6.1)
Ea r ly we ather proofing canvas smocks w i t h linseed oil (which turned the ca nvas yellow)
COMMANDER
men s j a c ke t AW ( 1 1 )
H E R I TA G E M AT E R I A L Tradition Teaches Quality
p.30
D E S I G N M A N T R A : WO R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - “ T R A D I T I O N T E AC H E S Q UA L I T Y ”
K AIHAR A DENIM : “Made in Japan”
“Established in 1893 by Sukejiro Kaihara (in present day Fukayama City) by manufacturing hand-woven indigo dyeing kasuri fabrics. As the world’s first manufacturer in broadloom kasuri fabrics & by developing the first rope-dyeing machine, Kaihara put their skill in indigo dyeing through constant innov a t i o n . To d a y, t h e e v o l u t i o n o f the Kaihara label has resulted in the Kaihara Corporation attributed as the largest denim supplier in Japan. Almost one of ever y two pairs of jeans in Japan is made with Kaihara denim.
100% made in Japan
Image Source: INDIGOFAN
BOYFRIEN D
wo m e n s j e a n S S ( 1 1 )
TALON ZIPPERS : “USA Original”
Whitcomb L. Judson patented a closure system in 1983 but scientist Gideon Sundback takes the credit for inventing the zip per in 1913 after he reworked Judsons model. Sundback patented his idea as the “Hookless Fastener”. After more improvements he patented the now infamous ‘zipper’ in 1917 as the “Separable Fastener ”. One of its first customers was t h e U S A r m y. I t a p p l i e d z i p p e r s to the clothing and gear of the t r o o p s o f Wo r l d Wa r I . I n 1 92 8 the Hookless Fastener Comp a n y r e n a m e d Ta l o n , I n c . S i n c e then zipper has become a comm o n n o u n f o r u s a g e , a n d Ta l o n has become a common name for q u a l i t y.
J u d s o n’s c l a s p lo c ke r z i p p e r
p.31
Nothing works like the Talon zipper!
JOCKO
wom e n s j a c ke t AW ( 1 0)
H E R I TA G E M AT E R I A L
“A love for tradition has never weakened a nation”
Sir Winston Churchill
(6.1)
RE-CUT TEXTILES The design team at Denham have implemented a very special sequence of RE- CUT special edition designs, starting in S S ( 1 0 ) w i t h t h e “ S p y B o r o D G L” a n d t h e “ M e d i c I n t e l D G L” a n d p r o c e e d i n g t h r o u g h A W 1 0 ’ s “ L o n g s h o r e D G L” a n d “ J o c k o D G L” a n d o n i n t o S S ( 1 1 ) w i t h t h e “ M e d i c a n d W a i s t N a t i o n a l e ” , “ M o h a w k D G L” a n d “ C a m i n o D G L” . T h e r e a r e a l s o d e signs in the pipeline for SS(12). These pieces are developed in order to symbolize the highe s t s t a n d a r d o f D e n h a m ’ s d e s i g n p h i l o s o p h y. A s s t r a n g e a t it may sound, this ambition is a more important inspiration for these products than their mainstream commercial potential...
(6.1)
p.32
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ” . . . E a c h o f t h e s e d e s i g n s u t i l i z e s f a b r i c s w h i c h h a v e l i t e r a lly been cut-away from an existing garment or other textile item. The garments/items that are disassembled in order to realize these special editions range in age from 10 years to nearly 100 years. They have come from a wide range of sources including museum-grade textile dealers as well as army surplus. Originating from Japan, the USA , the Nethe r l a n d s a n d F r a n c e . To d a t e t h e y h a v e i n c l u d e d : a n t i q u e J a p a n e s e b o r o - k i m o n o s ( a n d o t h e r t e x t i l e s ) , 3 L G o r e Te x from marine -issue bivouacs, cotton duck from army-tents,
P O W M E D I C ’ S S P O R T C O AT
Dutch militar y macintosh ponchos and thick wool from NOS army blankets, 50 -year old French linen from barracks matress covers, 70-year old pure silk from W W2 cargo parachutes, and cotton ripstop from winter tarpaulins. E v e r y a s p e c t o f b u i l d i n g t h e s e u n i q u e e d i t i o n s i s h i g h l y s p e c i a lized and complex. From acquiring the original source-material to managing disassembly to configuring its fabric for use in the new designs. Each step falls well outside normal manufacturing procedures.
British ( 1940’s)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
Pup tents in bivouac are a at Ada na N. A .T.O. Air base Source: Google : Life - James Burke 1961
M E D I C : I N T E L D G L “ R E - C U T ” B i vouacs
Milk Buttons
Bivouac training competition S o u rce : G o o g le : L i fe - L i s a La r s e n 1 9 5 1
R E C U T i n o rd e r to c re a te t h e n e x t g e n e ration MEDIC jacket for Fall 2009.
E m p loy i n g re c l a i m e d 3 - La ye r G o re -Te x Dutch Marine “bivouac ” sleeping-shells
p.33
R E - C U T 3 L G O R E T E X B I VO UAC T E N T S SPRING SUMMER (10)
“Foreign Office”
(6.1)
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ” To c a l l t h e s e “ s p e c i a l e d i t i o n s ” i s a c t u a l l y a n u n d e r s t a t e m e n t . T h e y a r e n o t s i m p l y a s p e c i a l- e d i t i o n c o l o r, or print. They are each literally one - of-a -kind. Fabric handfeel, color-tone, density and finish all may var y from garment to garment, and even within a single garment. Idiosyncrasies like original labeling, markings, repair work, handwritten elements may (or may not) show up on the final version. These characteristics are evidence of the past life and personal histor y that have been symbolically and actually stitched into each one.
ANTIQUE BORO KIMONO
As well as working to symbolize Denham’s design philoso p h y, w e a r e a l s o h o p e f u l t h a t t h e f i n a l p r o d u c t s w i l l f i n d their way into the hands, onto the backs, into the wardrobes of end- customers with an appetite for this rarified level of design, artisan production and craftsmanship. For endcustomers who appreciate this type of product we hope the RE- CUT “DGL Editions” from Denham will become valued heirlooms.
Japanese (e arly 20th Centur y)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M A T E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Den h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
Itenerant Japanese workers Source: Google
S P Y : B O R O D G L “ R E - C U T ” B o ro K i m o n os
Milk Buttons
Itenerant Japanese workers S o u rce : G o o g le
RE - C U T to c re a te le s s t h a n 24 o n e - o f- a - k i n d SPY BORO jackets
IND I G O B o ro te x t i le s fe a t u re a w i d e ra n g e o f dying and wax-resistance printing all of which employ deep blue indigo.
R E - C U T A N T I Q U E J A PA N E S E B O R O K I M O N O S (6.1)
SPRING SUMMER (10)
“Foreign Office”
p.34
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
p.35
R E - C U T A N T I Q U E J A PA N E S E B O R O K I M O N O S SPRING SUMMER (10)
“Foreign Office”
(6.1)
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
MACINTOSH PONCHO
Dutch army de adstock
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M A T E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Source: Flickr
Den h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
LONGSHORE DGL “ R E - C U T ” a r my p o n c h o s & wool blankets
Original army blanket markings RECU T to ca r r y fo r w a rd t h e c l a s s i c p e a co a t d e sign tradition
This jacket has been “RE - CUT ” from vintage Dutch militar y ponchos The material is over 30 years old. It has been cleaned and repurposed into a new product.
The po n c h o s s u p p l ie d t h e m a i n b o d y f a b r i c . T h e 100% thick wool blankets provide the collar lining and facings
R E - C U T COT TO N D U C K A R M Y T E N T S (6.1)
AUTUMN WINTER (10)
“ WHARFWORKS - The Dockyard”
p.36
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
ARMY WOOL BL ANKET
Dutch army de adstock
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Girl working sifting fabrics in burling room at wool mill
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
Source: Google : Life - Nat Farbman 1947
JOCKO DGL “ R E - C U T ” a r my p o n c h o s & wool blankets
Original army blanket markings R E - C U T a n d re co n s t r u c te d i n to t h i s u p dated bomber shape.
This jacket has been “RE - CUT ” from vintage Dutch militar y ponchos The material is over 30 years old. It has been cleaned and repurposed into a new product.
T h e p o n c h o s s u p p l i e d t h e m a i n b o d y f a bric. The 100% thick wool blankets provide the collar lining and facings
p.37
R E - C U T COT TO N D U C K A R M Y T E N T S AUTUMN WINTER (10)
“ WHARFWORKS - The Dockyard”
(6.1)
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
R A I N P R O O F E D W O R K PA N T
USA ( 1950’s)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M A T E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Den h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
Source: Flickr
M O H A W K D G L “ R E - C U T ” A r my te n t s
German damask laundr y bag waistband lining Disa s s e m b le d a n d re - c ra f te d to c re a te a co n temporar y vintage chino
‘ The H o u s ew i fe’ (a s k n ow n i n m i l i t a r y ra n k s ) home te ar and repair kit.
R E - C U T COT TO N D U C K A R M Y T E N T S (6.1)
SPRING SUMMER (11)
“Havana Makeshift”
p.38
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
CORSETED SPENCER JACKET
French ( 19th Centur y)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Army barrack matresses
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
Source: Google : Life
C A M I N O D G L “ R E - C U T ” L i n e n cove rs
Milk Buttons
Army Surplus Supplies Re a n i m a te d d e a d s to c k l i n e n to fo r m a modern jacket with corsetr y details
This jacket has been “RE - CUT ” from vintage French matress linen. The material is over 30 years old. It has been cleaned and repurposed into a new product.
1 0 0 % p u re l i n e n F re n c h a r my l i n e n w i t h original markings
p.39
R E - C U T F R E N C H A R M Y M AT R E S S C O V E R S SPRING SUMMER (11)
“Havana Makeshift”
(6.1)
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
1 0 0 % S I L K PA R A C H U T E
British Army Cargo ( 1945)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M A T E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Den h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
Making & stitching harnesses, Pioneer Parachute Company Mills Source: Flickr - Rittase, William M., 1894-1968,, p h o to g ra p h e r
C H U T E R “ R E - C U T ” S i l k p a ra c h u te s
Re -used original panel numbered markings RE - CU T to c re a te le s s t h a n 2 5 o n e - o f- a - k i n d d yed pure silk CHUTER jackets
3 x re c l a i m e d 1 0 0 % p u re s i l k p a ra c h u te s
R E - C U T W W 2 B R I T I S H S I L K C A R G O PA R A C H U T E S (6.1)
AUTUMN WINTER (11)
“Graf meets Nautilus”
p .4 0
DESIGN MANTRA : WORSHIP TRADITION - “RE- CUT ”
F O U L W E AT H E R A N O R A K
Dutch militar y (N/A)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Source: Google
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y a rc h i ve
N A U T I L U S “ R E - C U T ” r i p s to p t a r p a ulins
S o u rce : G o o g le
R E - C U T a n d re - e n g i n e e re d to c re a te a n innovative hooded shell jacket with removable hood & shoulder mantle
E m p loy i n g re c l a i m e d v i n t a g e w i n te r t a rpaulins sourced from Dutch militar y surplus
p .4 1
R E - C U T C O T T O N R I P S T O P W I N T E R TA R PA U L I N S AUTUMN WINTER (11)
“Graf meets Nautilus”
(6.1)
D E S I G N M A N T R A : W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - “ J A PA N T E X T I L E S ” “ O B S E S S I V E / I N FA T U A T E D / I D I O S Y N C R A T I C & D E T E R MINED” are all words that can be used to describe the Japanese design culture. Each characteristic inspires the DENHAM team’s respect as they see the particular mix of values as representing something uniquely Japanese. Ever since Jason Denham’s first visit to Japan he has been fascinated by the culture and obsessive focus demonstrated by Japanese artisans, designers, producers and even by Japanese consumers.
They seem to instinctively recognize the best in American, British and European culture. They absorb a nearly direct influence from each except that they intensify t h e q u a l i t y, c r a f t s m a n s h i p a n d d e t a i l i n g b e y o n d e v e n t h e original. In attempting to copy they ver y often improve.
“PIG SKIN” LEATHER
DU M P S TO R E 2
AW( 11)
GR A F T V I N TA G E
(6.1)
AW( 11)
“KOUIJI SELVEDGE ”
“DUMP STORE ”
AW( 10)
SS( 11)
J A PA N T E X T I L E S
1 0 0 % M A D E I N J A PA N
“ANTIQUE LIGHT ”
“DUMP STORE ”
SS(11)
SS(11)
p .4 2
D E S I G N M A N T R A : W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - “ J A PA N T E X T I L E S ”
p .4 3
(6.1)
D E S I G N M A N T R A : W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N - R E - C U T & 1 s t E D I T I O N AT P R E S E N T
(6.1)
p .4 4
(6.1)
“A S I X [6 ] S E A S O N
DESIGN M
“DESTROY CO
N RECOLLECTION
MANTRA :
ONVENTION”
(6.1)
D E S I G N M A N T R A : D E S T R O Y C O N V E N T I O N - “ I N N O VAT I O N S ”
(6.1)
7 POINT POCKET
C ABLE CONNECTION
Introduced SPRING SUMMER (09)
Introduced SPRING SUMMER (10)
MODVERSIBLE ZIPPER
P I G G Y- B A C K P O C K E T
Introduced AUTUMN WINTER (10)
Introduced AUTUMN WINTER (10)
p .4 8
D E S I G N M A N T R A : D E S T R O Y C O N V E N T I O N - “ I N N O VAT I O N S ”
p .4 9
D RO P YO K E
TRI SWING
Introduced AUTUMN WINTER (09)
Introduced SPRING SUMMER (10)
R E M O VA B L E M A N T L E / C O W L
FL I P S LOT
Introduced AUTUMN WINTER (11)
Introduced AUTUMN WINTER (10)
(6.1)
“ D E S T ROY I N G CO N V E N T I O N WA S T H E W O R K W E A R T R A D I T I O N ” Denham design is permanently tied to their belief in deni m ’ s b a s i c i n t e g r i t y. T h e y l o o k a t t h e c o r e o f w h a t d r i v e s jeans culture to inspire the approach they take in ever ything they do. The DENHAM label is focused on balancing an intense commitment to progressive design against an equally obsessive respect for jeans craft tradition. In step with founder Jason Denham’s long held personal creative convictions, they endeavor to manifest a practical “jeanmaker ” attitude of honest craftsmanship multiplied by fearless experimentation and invention not only in ever y jean they create, but in ever y garment in the line and ever y other aspect of the label.
JE A N S O F T H E O L D W E S T: A H i s to r y
A t t e m p t s t o c a r e f u l l y r a t i o n a l i s e a n d f u l l y e x p l a i n t h e c o m p e lling force of indigo and denim culture have been made by smarter people than us. None of those attempts have satisfied us and we d o u b t o u r s w o u l d f a r e a n y b e t t e r. W e ’ r e n o t g o i n g t o t r y t o r e v e a l a higher truth. Instead we’ll share what we think and what we feel. All credit for the images below go to Michael Allen Harris for his c o m p r e h e n s i v e a n d i n f o r m a t i v e a r c h i v e o f m o d e r n j e a n h i s t o r y.
Testing bulletproof vest, Washington, DC. 1923 Source: Flickr - United States Librar y of Congress
CROTC H S T R E N G T H E N E R
PA N T S T R E N G T H E N E R
(6.1)
M. Greenebaum. 1879
S. Krouse. 1880
POCKET STRENGTHENER
KNEE REINFORCEMENT
D. Neustadter. 1875
POCKET STRENGTHENER
SAFET Y POCKET
C. Q. Wo. 1874
A N I N S P I R AT I O N
JEANS OF THE OLD WEST : A History
by Michael Allen Harris
S . K ro u s e . 1 87 5
F. D a r l i n g . 1 8 6 1
p.50
D E N H A M M A N T R A : D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N - “ CO N V E N T I O N P R E V E N T S P RO G R E S S ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“ Yo u r m i s s i o n s t a t e m e n t i s “ W o r s h i p Tr a d i t i o n - D e s t r o y C o n vention”. How do you put this into practice when designing a collection?”
7 POINT POCKET
D RO P YO K E
C ABLE CONNECTION
CUTTER+
CUTTER+
mens je an. Autumn Winter ( 10)
LONGSHORE
SKINNY+
womens je an. Spring Summer ( 11)
TROUPER
mens je an. Spring Summer ( 11)
B OY F R I E N D
p.51
“In 1850 some crazy fuckin’ dude decided to make pants out of tents and then he decided that he would hammer nails in to the p o c k e t s t o m a k e t h e m s t r o n g e r. T h i n k a b o u t i t ? – i t w a s a r a d i c a l c r a z y i d e a . N o b o d y t h i n k s l i k e t h i s t o d a y. O u r d e s i g n t e a m i s u s i n g t h i s i n f l u e n c e a n d r e t h i n k i n g t h e w a y w e d o t h i n g s . We a s k a l o t o f q u e s t i o n s t o o u r s e lv e s b e fo r e w e s t a r t d e s i g n i n g . We a lw a y s start the concept with original vintage pieces but we reinvent and f i n d o u r o w n i n t e r p r e t a t i o n / s o l u t i o n s .”
womens je an. Spring Summer ( 11)
D E N H A M I N N O VAT I O N S
Wo r k w e a r t r a d i t i o n i s d e f i n e d by i nv e n t i o n
m e n s j a c ke t . A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 1 )
wo m e n s j a c ke t . A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 1 )
(6.1)
D E N H A M M A N T R A : D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N - “ CO N V E N T I O N P R E V E N T S P RO G R E S S ”
TRI-SWING
R E M O VA B L E Z I P P E R
BRASSARD
TRO U P E R
LINER
COMMANDER
m e n s j a c ke t . A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 1 )
COMMANDER
m e n s j a c ke t . A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 1 )
wo m ens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 11)
CO M M I S S I O N
(6.1)
mens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 11)
mens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 10)
ROGUE LINER
mens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 11)
D E N H A M I N N O VAT I O N S
Tr a d i t i o n s a r e n o t h o n o r e d b y b l i n d m i n d l e s s r e p e t i t i o n
p.52
D E N H A M M A N T R A : D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N - “ CO N V E N T I O N P R E V E N T S P RO G R E S S ”
p.53
MODULAR MANTLE
PIGGY BACK POCKET
FL I P S LOT
N AU T I LUS D . G . L .
mens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 11)
DUT Y
TROUPER
N AU T I LUS D . G . L .
mens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 11)
NAUTILUS D . G . L .
mens jacket. Autumn Winter ( 10)
mens jacket. Autumn Winte r ( 1 1 )
D E N H A M I N N O VAT I O N S
STATION
wo m e n s j a c ke t . A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 1 )
m e n s j a c ke t . A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 1 )
Tr a d i t i o n s a r e a d v a n c e d t h r o u g h c h a l l e n g i n g c o n v e n t i o n i n a c o n s t a n t s e a r c h f o r i m p r o v e m e n t
(6.1)
D E N H A M M A N T R A : D E S T ROY CO N V E N T I O N - V I R G I N D E N I M VIRGIN - WEAR YOUR PERSONALIT Y ON YOUR JEANS “ T h e m o r e y o u w e a r t h e m t h e b e t t e r t h e y g e t ” Yo u r j e a n s becomes a part of you, they take your shape and show y o u r p e r s o n a l i t y.
The maturity of a Jean is observed by its patina, spots, stains, repairs, rips and moustaches. These elements define the milestones in the life of a jean; A live abstract work of art that maps out our ever yday experiences.
Yo u r j e a n s t e l l a s t o r y. . . . .w h i c h p o c k e t y o u p l a c e y o u r w a ll e t , y o u r m o b i l e p h o n e a n d i f g o d h a s b e e n k i n d . . .w h i c h side you dress.
Virgin Denim is UNSPOILED, CLEAN. No treatments. V i r g i n D e n i m c o n c e p t i s b o r n o u t o f a u t h e n t i c , O TA K U , Americana Jeans. 5 pockets in their simplest form. Cut from narrow loom Japanese & Italian selvedge cloth. Virgin Denim is a MODERN denim concept.
“SELVEDGE DENIM”
“G R E Y T E FLO N ”
Autumn Winter ( 10)
“JA PA N S E LV E D G E ”
(6.1)
Spring Summer ( 11)
“DUST DENIM”
“PURE GREY ”
Autumn Winter ( 10)
Spring Summer ( 11)
Spring Summer ( 11)
VIRGIN DENIM
UNSPOILED DENIM FOR FRESHNESS
“GREY STRETCH”
Spring Summer (11)
“BL ACK TEFLON”
A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 0)
“ CL AY STRETCH”
Spring Summer (11)
p.54
(6.1)
D E N H A M S I G N AT U R E : D E S T R O Y C O N V E N T I O N - “ S C I S S O R A R T ”
p.57
SCISSOR PROP
KNUCKLES
Autumn Winter (11)
Autumn Winter (10)
CHAINSEW
CUTTERS EDGE
Autumn Winter (11)
Spring Summer (11)
(6.1)
“A S I X [6 ] S E A S O N
DESIGN PHI
“DENHAM DESIGN :
N RECOLLECTION
ILOSOPHY :
DENIM INTEGRITY ”
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ I TA LY L A U N D R Y ” For DENHAM, Italy ’s progressive denim washhouses inspire as much reverence as the countr y ’s legendar y cuisine, iconic sportscars and master oil painters. 45 years ago Martelli was founded in Bologna. Martelli is a specialist dye house whose artisans quickly became known as “ the Wizards of Colours”.
I n 1 9 8 6 M a r t e l l i a c q u i r e d a f a c i l i t y i n Ve d e l a g o , w h i c h b e came the undisputed home of jean innovation. The first c l i e n t i n M a r t e l l i ’ s Ve d e l a g o o p e r a t i o n s w a s a n e w l a b e l c a l l e d G O L D I E I TA L I A f r o m j e a n s l e g e n d , A d r i a n o G o l d s c h m i e d a n d h i s G E N I U S T R O U P E s t u d i o . To g e t h e r, A d r i ano and Martelli reinvented the denim business. They laid the groundwork for a whole new generation of innovative denimcraft. It fused the authenticity of Americana work wear with the excitement of European fashion and the world of denim would never be the same again.
“ WORN ( 10) YEARS SELVEDGE ”
“ V I N TA G E S TON E ”
EN G I N E RO O M
(6.1)
Autumn Winter ( 11)
Autumn Winter ( 11)
“GLORY DENIM”
Autumn Winte r ( 1 0)
Spring Summer ( 11)
“ WORN 11 YEARS ”
Spring Summer ( 11)
I TA LY L A U N D R Y
P RO G R E S S I V E WA S H I N G
“BLUE FADE ”
A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 0)
“GLUE REPAIR”
A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 0)
STITCH REPAIR
A u t u m n W i n te r ( 1 0)
p.60
p.61
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T O F I C O N S ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“ Yo u k e e p a n a r c h i v e o f v i n t a g e c l o t h i n g i n y o u r D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b r a r y, a n d y o u p r e s e n t s o m e o f t h e s e p i e c e s o n l i n e . A lot of people would jealously guard this kind of inspiration rather than share it. I get the impression you’re almost evang e l i c a l a b o u t s p r e a d i n g y o u r i n t e r e s t i n v i n t a g e g a r m e n t s …” BIG BUCK WORK SHIRT
“ We a r e v e r y o p e n a n d s h o w a l o t o f p i e c e s o n o u r s i t e . We n ev e r designed the 501 or the MA1 or the M65. Therefore we don’t own it. Its good to share sources of research. I often get together with Nigel Cabourn (who has one of the best vintage collections in Eur o p e ) a n d w e s h a r e r a r e f i n d s , k n o w l e d g e a n d e x p e r i e n c e .”
Grain work-shirt has been ste adily improved with e ach new edition.
USA 1940’s
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Denha m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y i n s p i ra t i o n
Autumn Winter ( 10)
S p r i n g S u m m e r (0 9 )
Embroidered eyelets
Boxed Button Hole
Milk Buttons
Dart Compression
The o r i g i n a l G ra i n . I n a p o i n t 3 s t r i p e f a b r i c with milk buttons and epau lettes.
Added contrast stitch at shoulders and interior collar. Introduced copper nail rivets, as well as Japanese 7oz denim fabrication.
Spring Summer (11)
Autumn Winter ( 11)
Triplestitch yoke
Adjustable cuffs
Hang loop
Selvedge listing
Introd u ce d a t r i p le s t i tc h i n te r i o r yo ke fo r s t re n gth. Keeping tabs hang loop and the custom r i n g & e ye re m ova b le b u t to n .
(6.1)
The adjustable cuff became a permanent fe ature from SS( 11) and in troduced selvedge listing usage along the front placket.
GR AIN SHIRT
Step -by-step improvements season by season
p.62
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T O F I C O N S ” When we say “Denham Design, Denim Integrity ” we’re partly saying that we believe in incremental design. Inspired by the steady step -by-step improvements made by early jean-tailors.
W A L K I N G / C A R R I A G E C O AT
Amongst others, these tailors upgraded the cloth of their workpants to denim, then added rivets to the pockets, then increasing the pocket- count from two to five. Our aim is to identify ways to improve our own designs each season.
With roots dating from way back to W W1 trench warfare, we’ ve pushed it for ward a little
Dutch 1930’s
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y i n s p i ra t i o n
Autumn W i n te r ( 1 0)
S p r i n g S u m m er ( 10)
Ring&Eye Buttons
Hidden Glove pocket I n t ro d u ce d w i t h a h i g h g ra d e S w i s s S c h oeller metal fabric in the outer we ave a n d a w a te rp ro o f / b re a t h a b le m e m b ra n e as a hidden laminate
2 layers woven in contrasting colors producing an unlined waterproof coat that’s black on the outside and khaki on the inside. Selected premium mac intosh fabric from British Millerain. Autumn W i n te r ( 1 1 )
S p r i n g S u m m er ( 11)
Tri-swing action back
Tri-swing action back
Flip snap cuff
Articulated arm
Tre a te d w i t h a 5 0 0 m w a te r p ro o f b re a t h able milkfoam microporous backing. T h e f l i p s n a p c u f f w a s i n t ro d u ce d i n a d dition to a host of existing details.
p.63
Cable Connection
Establishing the inventive ‘ tri-swing’ action back shoulder construc tion (from SS( 11) for enhanced re ach-and-recover mobility.
COMMISSION JACKET
“ W i t h o u t d e v i a t i o n f r o m t h e n o r m , p r o g r e s s i s n o t p o s s i b l e .”
Frank Zappa
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T O F I C O N S ”
U N B R A N D E D M OTO R AC E JAC K E T
Equal parts moto race jacket and 1960’s doublet fencing jacket.
1960’s
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Denha m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y i n s p i ra t i o n .
Spring Summer ( 10)
S p r i n g S u m m e r ( 1 0)
Contrast taping
The or i g i n a l S py h a d a d o u b le a s y m m e t r i c c lo s ure with contoured cuffs and cable co n n e c t i o n c lo s u re .
We also offered the Spy in RE - CUT boro kimonos. Combined with the fitted corset shape elevated this style to museum standard.
Spring Summer (11)
Autumn Winter ( 11)
Talon zippers
Co n c e a le d c lo s u re
Action back
Co r s e t t a i lo r i n g
The b u t to n c lo s u re w a s u p d a te d w i t h a f u l l Ta lon zip gently e ases into a graceful cur vin g f ro n t c lo s u re . R i b b e d p a n e l s fo r co m fo rt and fit.
(6.1)
Two way open- end Talon zips extended the front drop. We also hid the press snaps at back neck, and added conce aled zip closures.
SPY TO SPY+
Step -by-step improvements season by season
p.64
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T O F I C O N S ”
M E N ’S S H AW L CO L L A R E V E N I N G JAC K E T
MEN’S SUIT VEST WOOL GABERDINE
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
V I N TA G E R E S E A RC H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y i n s p i ra t i o n
Autumn W i n te r ( 1 0)
S p r i n g S u m m er ( 10)
Adjustable fastener
Ring&Eye Buttons
Box button hole
2 fabric qualities
T h e e a r ly Ma j o r l a ye d fo u n d a t i o n s fo r f uture waistcoats - including double strap faste n e r, b ox b u t to n h o le s , a n d j e t p o c ke t s .
Gilette inspired by the impression of a smoking jacket with waistcoat re ve aled underne ath. Modernised by incre asing the front yoke drop. Autumn W i n te r ( 1 1 )
S p r i n g S u m m er ( 11)
Dot print lining
Box button holes S S 1 1 i n t ro d u ce d V i rg i n p u re g re y d e n i m fabrication. Pinstripe lining, con trast fabric j e t p o c ke t s , a n d t h e n ew co p p e r n a i le d trumpet buttons
p.65
AW( 11) introduces Viscose into the fabric range. Dot print silk lining and is further complimented with viscose tailored jacket and pant.
MAJOR GILETTE
“ T i m e i s a d r e s s m a k e r s p e c i a l i z i n g i n a l t e r a t i o n s .”
Faith Baldwin
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T O F I C O N S ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“How do you feel about the spread of denim geeker y in re cent years? Do you think people care more than they used to about the quality and fabrication of their denim, or has ‘selvedge’ become just another buzzword?”
PR AC TIC AL GUIDE TO CUTTING
“I have watched the passion for denim grow for 20 years whilst I h a v e b e e n a c t i v e l y w o r k i n g i n t h i s i n d u s t r y. T h e b i g g e s t t h i n g I have noticed is that consumers are getting better educated eve r y d a y. T h i s i s a c o m b i n a t i o n o f t h e p o w e r a n d s p e e d o f i n t e r n e t c o m m u n i c a t i o n a l s o a s i g n o f t h e t i m e s . To d a y p e o p l e a r e l o o k i n g f o r q u a l i t y. W e l i v e i n a f a s t , d i s p o s a b l e w o r l d . Q u a l i t y i s m o r e i m p o r t a n t t h a n e v e r… ”
British ( 1910)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
Denha m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y i n s p i ra t i o n Autumn Winter ( 10)
S p r i n g S u m m e r (0 9 )
Tailored waistband
Boxed Button Hole
7 point pocket
Hem darting
The fir s t C u t te r i n s p i re d b y t h e f a m i ly h e i r lo o m Practical guide to cutting. introduced darted h e m s a n d k ne e s , a n d a f u l ly t a i lo re d w a i stband
AW10 saw narrower legs, the introduction of the drop yoke construction around the waistline. In addition to copper nail trumpet buttons
Spring Summer (11)
Autumn Winter ( 11)
Drop Yoke
Tailored fly
Selvedge fly
7 Point pocket
Secur i n g t h e d ro p yo ke i n n ova t i o n , a n d t a i lo re d box button holes. SS11 saw the introduc t i o n o f t h e s elve d g e f ly.
(6.1)
Tailored fly interior and progressive washing executions from the Italy Laundr y
CUTTER > CUTTER+
Step -by-step improvements season by season
p.66
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - “ S T E P - B Y- S T E P I M P R O V E M E N T O F I C O N S ”
PR AC TIC AL GUIDE TO CUTTING
British ( 1910)
V I N TA G E R E S E A R C H M AT E R I A L NOT FOR SALE
D e n h a m G a r m e n t L i b ra r y i n s p i ra t i o n Autumn W i n te r ( 1 0)
S p r i n g S u m m er (09)
Zip closure hem
Darted knees
Box button hole
Darted hems
T h e f i r s t S k i n ny i n s p i re d b y t h e f a m i ly h eirloom Practical guide to cutting. Introduced d a r te d k n e es , b ox b u t to n h o le s a n d z i p ped hem
The introduction of the drop yoke innovation visually drops the posture of the front waistline whilst retaining the rise.. The zip hems are replaced with the now familiar darted hem.
S p r i n g S u m m er ( 11)
Autumn W i n te r ( 1 1 )
Box button hole
Drop yoke
Zip fly closure
7 Point pocket
Co n t i n u i n g to i m p rove t h e f i t , e s t a b l i s hed the drop yoke innovation from AW( 10) as we l l a s lowe r i n g t h e b a c k yo ke , i n c re a s i ng pocket size and adjusting the placement.
p.67
7 point pockets, hug the refined drainpipe fit. AW( 11) continues to cre ate innovative washes from the Italy laundr y.
SKINNY > SKINNY+
“ T h e f u t u r e i s u n w r i t t e n .”
Joe Strummer
(6.1)
“A S I X [6 ] S E A S O N
HOUSE OF
“3 STORES HI
N RECOLLECTION
DENHAM :
GH & RISING”
(6.1)
THE CUTTER’S COUNCIL NOVEMBER 28TH 2010
DENHAM DESIGN - “DENHAM HOUSE” Products with this kind of commitment to craftsmanship, invention and progression could hardly be born in a generic working environment. The Denham studio is the engine room of DENHAM HOUSE on Amsterdam’s historic Prinsengracht in the city’s 9-streets neighborhood. Designed and e x e c u t e d b y t h e s a m e t i g h t t e a m r e s p o n s i b l e f o r t h e c o llection, DENHAM HOUSE is home not only to the design,
the Denham Garment Library and the rest of the “home office”, it also boasts the first dedicated Denham shop attached directly t o t h e r e s t o f t h e f a c i l i t y. T h e a u t h e n t i c a n d n a t u r a l l y r i c h s p a c e has been carefully refitted to give shape to DENHAM’s simple vis i o n o f t r a d i t i o n a n d m o d e r n i t y, e x t e n d i n g t h e l a b e l ’ s m e s s a g e d i r e c t l y t o r e a l c u s t o m e r s i n r e a l- t i m e e v e r y d a y.
AMS
AMSTERDAM
STORE | ST UDIO | SHOWROOM PRINSENGR ACHT 495, 1016HR , AMSTERDAM
T KO
TO K YO STORE
(6.1)
2 5 - 8 S A R U G A K O C H O , S H I B U YA - K U , T O K Y O , 1 5 0 - 0 0 3 3
p .7 2
LDN
LONDON
STORE | SHOWROOM p .7 3
32 CHARLOTTE ROAD, SHOREDITCH, LOND ON, EC2A 3PB
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N - “ D E N H A M H O US E LO N D O N ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“It’s unusual to find a brand’s store, office, and showroom all housed under one roof – is this a deliberate move to present all aspects of the brand in a cohesive way?”
(6.1)
“ Ye s , t h i s w a s m y d r e a m f r o m d a y 1 . I w a n t t o h a v e t h i s s e t u p a l l ov e r t h e w o r l d . We a l r e a d y h av e t h i s c o n c e p t i n A m s t e r d a m a n d To k y o a n d n e x t y e a r w e p l a n 3 m o r e D E N H A M H O U S E S e n c a p s u l a t i n g t h e f u l l b r a n d e x p e r i e n c e .”
p .7 4
FLO O R 4
MENS SHOWROOM
p .7 5
FLO O R 3
WOMENS SHOWROOM
(6.1)
1 4 -1 0 - 2 0 1 0 - O P
DENHAM HOU
D E N H A M D E S I G N - “ D E N H A M H O US E LO N D O N ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“ D e n h a m H o u s e i n L o n d o n i s y o u r t h i r d s t o r e w o r l d w i d e . Yo u were raised in the UK; does it have a special significance for you to open the new store over here?”
“A b s o l u t e l y, I h a v e l i v e d i n H o l l a n d f o r 1 5 y e a r s – I t r a v e l o f t e n t o London but to have a fixed home in London is a dream. It’s good t o b e b a c k .”
P E N I N G PA R T Y
USE LONDON
(6.1)
(6.1)
(6.1)
DENHAM DESIGN - PRESS REPORTS D E N H A M H O US E LO N D O N
(6.1)
p.80
DENHAM DESIGN - PRESS REPORTS D R A P E R S R E C O R D I N T E R V I E W. N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 0
It would be too easy to say that Jason Denham was born to do denim. But it’s hard to resist when you hear the Amsterdam-based jean-maker talk about his craft. “I’ve worked in the industr y my whole life. It’s t h a t r e a l c l i c h é t h a t I ’ v e n e v e r d o n e a d a y ’ s w o r k i n m y l i f e . I t ’ s m y h o b b y. I l o v e t h e d e n i m . I l o v e w h a t I d o .” F i f t e e n y e a r s a f t e r h e m o v e d t o H o l l a n d , t h i s w e e k D e n h a m i s b a c k i n L o n d o n w i t h a n e w s t o r e - h i s t h i r d a f t e r A m s t e r d a m a n d To k y o - i n a f o u r - s t o r e y f o r m e r w a r e h o u s e o n C h a r l o t t e S t r e e t i n t h e h e a r t o f London’s Shoreditch. The legend above the entrance - “ The truth is in the details” - is born out inside: archive pieces, exposed brick work and scissors jutting from walls with jeans hanging from them. The effect is more that of a museum than a shop. D e n h a m ’ s s p i r i t u a l a n d a c t u a l h o m e t h o u g h i s i n t h e N e t h e r l a n d s . “ H o l l a n d h a s a g r e a t j e a n s w e a r c u lt u r e . I n H o l l a n d t h e y e a t j e a n s f o r b r e a k f a s t , l u n c h a n d d i n n e r. I t ’ s c r a z y. B e c a u s e t h e r e ’ s a r e a l j e a n s w e a r m e n t a l i t y, t h e c u s t o m e r i s v e r y e d u c a t e d . I s e t u p a d e n i m a g e n c y i n H o l l a n d a n d I w a s c o n s u l t i n g with brands. If people’s fits were wrong, we’d go and fix them, or if people couldn’t wash jeans, I’d go and show them how to do it. After a while I thought let’s make a brand. I made Blue Blood, which was great in t h e b e g i n n i n g b u t w e s o l d i t t o a n I t a l i a n c o m p a n y.” F o l l o w i n g t h e s a l e , D e n h a m t r a v e l l e d t h e g l o b e f o r i n s p i r a t i o n - c a l l i t h i s o w n p e r s o n a l E a t , P r a y, J e a n s . “ I r e a l i s e d t h a t t h e r e w a s n o t h i n g r e a l l y e x c i t i n g i n the marketplace, nothing that got my heart pumping and gave me chicken skin. So I thought OK, my goal is to create mouth-watering, exciting product and ever ything that goes with it. That’s when I decided to u s e m y f a m i l y n a m e , w h i c h w a s k i n d o f m e a n t t o b e . I t h a d t o h a p p e n a t s o m e p o i n t .” S o w h a t d o e s g e t h i s w a s h e s f l o w i n g ? “ I f y o u l o o k a t t h e t r e n d o f w h a t ’ s o u t t h e r e n o w, ev e r y o n e i s f o ll o w i n g t h i s b i g v i n t a g e s t o r y, l o o k i n g b a c k a t a r c h i v e s f o r a u t h e n t i c i t y. I h a v e a h u g e c o l l e c t i o n m y s e l f : o l d j e a n s , m i l i t a r y s t u f f, w o r k w e a r, o l d s c i s s o r s , a l l k i n d s o f s t u f f.” S u c h a s a t a i l o r ’ s s c i s s o r f r o m 1 5 5 0 - “In those days scissors were operated by two people so it has this long pin and blades. It looks a bit like Pac-Man” - and a pair of Levi’s from 1940 in “ fantastic condition”. “It’s not exciting enough just to recreate that, so we have this design mantra: worship tradition, destroy convention. What we love is to t a k e t h i n g s f u r t h e r, t o m a k e i t e x c i t i n g , t o d o d i f f e r e n t s t u f f. T h e r e w a s a g u y i n 1 8 5 0 w h o s a i d , ‘ O K , I ’ m g o i n g t o m a k e a p a i r o f j e a n s o r a p a i r o f t r o u s e r s o u t o f t e n t m a t e r i a l . A n d t o m a k e t h e m e v e n s t r o n g e r, I ’ m g o i n g t o p u t n a i l s i n t h e p o c k e t s .’ N o o n e t h i n k s l i k e t h a t n o w .” N o o n e e x c e p t D e n h a m , t h a t i s . “A l o t o f t h e c o l l e c t i o n i s m a d e f r o m r e - c u t v i n t a g e m a t e r i a l s . S o w e ’ v e been out buying Dutch army tents and ponchos and cutting them up and recreating them into new styles. It’s fabric which is 30 years old, which gives it its homage to tradition, but then we’ve invented a new s t y l e a n d m o v e d i t o n .” D e n h a m i s a d a m a n t t h o u g h t h a t y o u d o n ’ t h a v e t o b e a d e n i m - o b s e s s i v e t o s h o p t h e r e . “ T h e s k i l l o f b e i n g a g o o d d e s i g n e r i s k n o w i n g w h e n t o t a k e t h e p e n c i l o f f t h e p a p e r. A l o t o f d e n i m products are overdone. The way that we present our goods and the ser vice that we give and ever ything that goes with it, that makes the customer come in and realise what’s going on. Just making the jeans and stacking them up and buying them in a box, that doesn’t really work anymore. Saying this jean is o f fe r e d i n a 3 2 l e g a n d a 3 4 l e g i s a l i t t l e b i t o l d -f a s h i o n e d . We ’ v e t r a i n e d g u y s a n d i m p o r t e d t h e b e s t Union Special machines from America [which had to be airlifted into the store], the original machines on w h i c h y o u d o t h e c h a i n - s t i t c h h e m s . T h e w h o l e i d e a i s t h a t p e o p l e c a n c o m e i n a n d s a y, I w a n t t o w e a r m y j e a n t h i s l e n g t h o r t h i s l e n g t h , a n d w e c a n a l t e r i t .” W e h a z a r d a n e d u c a t e d g u e s s t h a t h e w e a r s a l o t o f j e a n s . “ E v e r y d a y. F o r a g u y w h o ’ s w o r k e d i n j e a n s all of his life, I have a lot in my closet but not as many as you’d expect. I like to take a fresh one, a clean one, and wear it wear it wear it for a few years and then wash it. In the three window boxes at the back of the store there’s one jean which was worn by myself for two years and washed one time and you can see a l l t h e c h a r a c t e r a n d p e r s o n a l i t y. T h e n e x t j e a n i s b y o u r a r t d i r e c t o r w h o s m o k e s a l o t a n d y o u c a n s e e w h e r e h i s f a g p a c k e t h a s b e e n . H i s k n e e s a r e w o r n o u t f r o m c u t t i n g o u t . I l i k e t h a t k i n d o f p e r s o n a l i t y.”
(6.1)
DENHAM DESIGN - PRESS REPORTS D R A P E R S R E C O R D . B E S T S T O R E R E V I E W. N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 0
(6.1)
DENHAM DESIGN : “HOUSE GUEST ARTIST ” Each season DENHAM invites a Guest Artist into their house and create a unique print based around the scissor icon.
The artist is free to work within their own style without any cont r a i n t s . A l l w e a s k i s t h a t t h e y i n c l u d e t h e s c i s s o r.
ALLJAN MOEHAMAD The first will be Alljan Moehamad; Artist and photograp h e r. A l l j a n i s a l o c a l D u t c h t a l e n t w h o i s r e n o w n e d f o r h i s hand drawn skull drawings in ink pen. Alljan has the rare ‘freehand’ talent of putting his pen on the paper and not t a k i n g i t o f f u n t i l i t i s f i n i s h e d . To g e t h e r w e h a v e c r e a t e d a collection of tees with Alljan’s artworks.
SHOOTING THE BREEZE The 2nd in our series of guest artists welcomes into the Denham house SHOOTING THE BREEZE : A graphic design studio founded in 2004 by Jake Noakes and Samira Kafala. STB specialises in graphic design, art direction and illustration and works across a variety of fields from fashion and media to publishing and the visual arts & often creating limited edition, bespoke publications for their clients. Most recently the studio has been asked by Reel Art Press to art direct and design their f i r s t l i m i t e d - e d i t i o n p u b l i c a t i o n e n t i t l e d B i l l G o l d : Po s t e r Wo r k s avaialble via reelartpress.com. The geometric scissor design has a timeless yet contemporary appeal and was inspired by the works of Sol LeWitt.
(6.1)
SKULLJAN
CUT THE BREEZE
Spring Summer (11)
Autumn Winter (11)
p.84
DENHAM DESIGN - THE BUTCHER X DENHAM BUTCHER X DENHAM Congratulations on selecting a very special venture. A prime joint effort between the BUTCHER and DENHAM. Yo u a r e n o w a 1 / 1 0 0 o w n e r o f a l i m i t e d e d i t i o n b u t c h e r e d jean. THE CUT Tr i m m e d o f e x c e s s f a t t o m a k e a l e a n c u t G r a d e S l i m f i t . THE MARK The Butchers’ Hook. Hot-boned into the back pocket facing. THE BOND Custom-made camel hide patch marked with DENHAM X BUTCHER logo. Split to a 1mm thickness with the sharp e g e o f a c l e a v e r. This is what happened the day the butcher solicited the j e a n m a k e r. B u t t h e r e a l s l a u g h t e r i n g i s a b o u t t o b e g i n : A s a h i g h l y v a l u e d c u s t o m e r y o u r w o r k s t a r t s t o d a y. N o w there is no going back.. All the Butcher asks is that you wear your jean to within an inch of it’s life, and follow these simple instructions:
THE BUTCHER “ T h o u g h t h e B u tc h e r i s a ve r y u s e f u l person to society, he is far from being re s p e c te d . B e i n g h a b i t u a te d to t h e s l a u ghter of be asts, sheep, and other me at, the n a m e h a s b e e n s o m e t i m e s co m p a re d by the way of a marked association, to that o f a h a rd en e d m u rd e re r. L e t u s n o t , h owever, suppose that ever y butcher is an un fe e l i n g m a n ; s o m e h a ve b e e n p ra i s e d for their humanity and sensibility.”
p.9 8 19
1. We ar your je an ever y day for 1 ye ar 2. Never wash them 3. Record ever y spit, spot, blemish, stain, rip and te ar. 4. Note the damage in your Butcher ’s credit book. 5. Keep the faith. It won’ t be e as y. You’ll need dedication. 6. The rest is up to you. Eat in them, dance, sleep, rock, smoke, drink, bone, fight, slide. just make sure to never take any care.
They say there’s no substitute for hard work, and above all the Butcher believes good things come to those who wait. S o a f t e r 1 y e a r t h e B u t c h e r i n v i t e s y o u b a c k . To g e t h e r with your jean. And your credit book. The Butcher will promise to refund you 100% of what you paid. On top of that, he’ll give you a further 50% if your credit book is up-to-date and full. S o m e t i m e l a t e r, t h e B u t c h e r w i l l d r e s s t h e d e n i m f l e s h , cold cure your jean, and hang them in the Butcher shop for all to see.
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N : CO L LUS I O N - “ WO R K I N G TO G E T H E R I N S E C R E T ”
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N : CO L LUS I O N - “ WO R K I N G TO G E T H E R I N S E C R E T ” Denham is too new a label to involve itself in systematic co-branding programs. At least the team at Denham feel that collaborations should be about more than just temporarily hitching your brand-name to another company ’s wagon for a free ride into the market. They can sympathize that it’s a stunt that can create more basic “brand awareness” but they ’d rather look at collaboration from outside the framework of pure marketing.
Instead the Denham team have embarked on a couple of collaborative projects with the express purpose of stretching their design process beyond their normal comfort zone while still creating products that resonate with their brand’s core concept. The ideal collaborators have been folks who share a deep passion for work wear and denim culture that overlaps substantially with Denham’s. But whose point- of-view on denim and work wear repre sents a markedly different sensibility than that of Denham.
ENPLUS The official introduction of the EnPlus/Denham Collusion Series marks the project coming out of months of secret meetings and into the winter light of Amsterdam in Dec e m b e r. T h e s e r i e s i n c l u d e s t h e 4 9 5 J a p a n e s e D r y S e l vedge, the 459 American Standard and the revised staple t w o - p a c k w h i t e t e e / / 2 P - W T. E a c h o f t h e t h r e e r e p r e s e n t s a meeting of the minds of EnPlus and Denham.
A CHILD OF THE JAGO T h i s t i m e D E N H A M ’ s c o l l u s o r a t o r s a r e t h e c r e w f r o m “A C h i l d o f the Jago” in London. While Jago’s purist style ethic and uncompromising dandy-punk posture stand outside DENHAM’s traditional realm, their passion for product and shared English cultural pedigree made them the perfect catalyst for the new collusion.
It wouldn’t be authentic coming solely from Denham, but i t i s w h o l l y a u t h e n t i c a s a p r o d u c t o f D e n h a m ’ s e r n e s t c o llaboration with the Precinct Five team. And a shared denim vocabular y makes it a natural design process. The result was a focused offering of narrow cuffed virgin jeans and poly-bagged tees which borrow equally from both teams and which neither would have done on their own.
p.87
DENHAM’s new Mohawk pant is being made using Jago’s signature deadstock British yardgoods, and Jago’s signature Apache pant has been re-imagined in DENHAM’s premium Japanese denim and selvedge chino qualities. These two crossbred models are joined by a commemorative “Graft” tee shirt to complete the graftedtogether capsule and will be available in limited quantities.
FOURNINET YFIVE
A PA C H E
Autumn Winter (10)
Spring Summer (11)
(6.1)
DENHAM DESIGN - SAKS APPEAL
(6.1)
We w e r e v e r y p l e a s a n t ly s u r p r i s e d w h e n a J a p a n e s e s h o e m a k e r, c u r r e n t l y l i v i n g i n F l o r e n c e , w a l k e d i n t o o u r s t o r e o n We d n e s d a y a f t e r n o o n a n d ev e n m o r e s u r p r i s e d w h e n h e introduced himself as Ryusaka Himura (aka SAK who was the man behind the Converse SAK x JACK PURCELL colab we had in store)
He was 110% the gentleman when we bullied him into a spontaneous collaboration, inspired by his jean but built on one of ours. We h a p p e n e d t o h av e s o m e y a k l e a t h e r i n t h e b a c k ( w e ’ r e n o t k i d d i n g ) c o u r t e s y o f o u r p a l P a n o s f r o m E c c o Ta n n e r i e s . I t t u r n e d out to be just the thing to cut a 7-point pocket from. Besides, “ S A K ” r h y m e s w i t h “ YA K ” .
After seeing his shoes on our website, a humble Ryusaka on a break from work came to the store just to ‘have a look’ and ended up getting the full Denham treatment. Its o bv i o u s Ry u s a k a s h a r e s t h e D E N H A M p h i l o s o p h y o f Wo rs h i p Tr a d i t i o n D e s t r o y C o n v e n t i o n . H e w a s w e a r i n g a v i n tage jean of his own modified with a leather pocket. An apt m o v e f o r a c o r d w a i n e r. - B u t t h a t p o c k e t h a d 5 - p o i n t s a n d s e v e r a l o f o u r s h a v e 7.
Our CUTTER+ VJS was transformed on the spot into a one - of-a kind artisan fusion of DENHAM and SAK. He left in a pair of our Grades and we received a cool new addition to the Denham Garm e n t L i b r a r y.
p.88
p.89
(6.1)
DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y - THE SHOEMAKER THANKS THE JEANMAKER
CUSTOM MADE by SAK for DENHAM STORE (AMS )
(6.1)
p.90
D E N H A M D E S I G N : D E N I M I N T E G R I T Y - RY US A K A T H E S H O E M A K E R SAK X CONVERSE During the summer we witnessed the international release of the Converse SAK x JACK PURCELL colab, the second p r o j e c t w i t h J a p a n e s e ( b y w a y o f F l o r e n c e ) s h o e m a k e r, R y usaka Himura. The crew here at Denham were feeling very smug indeed that our shop would have been selected as a launch-pad for such an outstanding example of the fusion of modern design sensibilities with timeless artisan craftsmanship.
p.91
While being 100% the result of Hiruma -San and Converse combined values, the resulting shoe seemed very much at home here at Denham within our shop environment and adjacent to our own modest efforts in the world of worshiping tradition and destroying convention. The SAK Jack Purcell shoes were hand made in Florence in an extremely limited quantity of only 64 pairs worldwide. They are now at the Denham shop next to our design studio in Amsterdam.
(6.1)
D E N H A M D E S I G N - V I R G I N S LU B D E N I M “ H O M E R I N S E ”
(6.1)
p.92
D E N H A M S I G N AT U R E : D E S T R O Y C O N V E N T I O N - “ C O N V E N T I O N P R E V E N T S P R O G R E S S ” Inter view with Jason Denham for High Snobiety (October 2010)
“ We’ v e e s t a b l i s h e d yo u r i n t e r e s t i n t h e h i s t o r y o f c l o t h i n g . So what does the future hold for Denham?”
“ We w a n t t o m a ke t h e m o s t e xc i t i n g m o u t h w a te r i n g co l le c t i o n s including, denim, chinos, technical jackets, knits, accessories, etc. Our aim is to put all our passions in to all product groups. Denim will always be our headline but the stuff around it is de v e l o p e d a n d p r e s e n t e d w i t h t h e s a m e i n t e g r i t y.”
“ I T ’ S A B O U T M A K I N G M O U T H W AT E R I N G M U S T H AV E E X C I T I N G J E A N S ”
p.93