Newspaper #03 The Wear Issue

April 2015

ISSUE 03 The Wear Issue.

ISSUE

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THE SINGUL AR OBSESSION OF DENHAM’S DREAM. C APT URING THE MOUTHWATERING COOL OF THE PERFEC T WEAR-PATTERN.

IN THIS ISSUE:

THE HOLY GRAIL DENHAM D.G.L. ARCHIVE

WEAR PATTERNS THE PERFECT RECIPE

RE-CUT TEXTILES NATURAL AGING

BEST OF ANTWERP Denham cit y guide

MAP YOUR LIFE SERVICE CO.

HOUSE GUEST ARTIST #10 2501

DENHAM STORE ANT WERP

‘THE JEAN MAKER’ THE SEQUEL

COLLUSION DENHAM X FACING WEST

WORN IN MOTION MAY NEW ARRIVALS

WINTER NOMADS FW15 PREVIEW

DENHAM AMSTERDAM DENIM BAR

T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S w w w. d e n h a m t h e j e a n m a k e r. c o m

L iam Maher DENHAM Design Director I joined the team at Denham early. In the beginning we were all on one floor in the building we still occupy in Amsterdam’s 9-Streets neighbourhood. Those days were characterized by Jason Denham sweeping into our shared studio just back from a session with his trusted laundry-houses in Italy or Japan - standing in the middle of the space with a slightly wild glimmer in his eye and a small pile of jeans over his shoulder, systematically throwing them down in front of us while excitedly describing each new washing and aging technique they represented.

I didn’t come to Denham from the jeans industry, but through Jason I began to understand the ‘jeanmakers’ Holy Grail.

An endless quest to capture what happens naturally to a pair of jeans over time when somebody who has been fully engaged with

their life wears it. - To capture the natural increase in beauty, sex-appeal, comfort, character and cool that literally maps itself over the surface of the denim, and over the body of the person wearing it.

Around Denham we’ve described this jeanmaking alchemy with phrases like “Laundry Master”; “Virgin to Vintage”, “Italy Laundry” or “Japan Artisan”... but regardless of what we call it, the obsession has always been the same. For Jason and his crew to deliver those essential qualities in a fresh and modern way; Natural Beauty, sex-appeal, comfort, character, cool.

H O LY G R A I L

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1. DENHAM STORE Lombardenvest 32, Antwerp denhamthejeanmaker.com 2. BEST ANTIQUES: LoftstylesBE LIke us, the owner worships tradition and destroys convention.

Scouring the globe for large scale curiosities, he stocks his Kloosterstraat showroom with both high-brow and lowbrow pieces often applying his own inventive instincts to re-purpose and graft-together new ideas using the spare parts of industrial refuse to produce furniture and lighting. His singular obsession is realy aerospace and he makes annual pilrimages to American airplane ‘graveyards’ to scavenge for material that he can bend to his own creative will. You’ll find some of the loftstyle creations taking pride-of-place in the interiors of our own Denham stores.

3. BEST BIKE SHOP: VELODROME The newest bike shop / brasserie in the Berchem neighbourhood of Antwerp. It is an old red brick structure of what was a disused pub and stable across the road from the De Koninck brewery. Very cool space with soaring ceiling, exposed bricks, wood and iron, as well as biccycle frames.

4. BEST LUNCH: CHEZ FRED Trust us 5. BEST SHOP: YOUR STORE Obsessed with delivering the most immersive shopping experience possible, Your Store re-imagines the traditional department store for the 21st Century combining elite fashion brands (including Denham, of course!)

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“ in the City” BEST OF ANTWERP CITY GUIDE: BEST OF THE BELGIAN OBSESSIVES

6. BEST ART PHENOMENON: PANAMARENKO A pseudonym for Henri Van Herwegen a prominent assemlagist in Belgian sculpture famous for his complex and ingenius 3D contraptions full of obsessive and inventive detail that create to inspire the viewer’s imagination.

7. BEST MUSEUM: THE MoMu Obsessed with both preserving the history of the world’s most creative fashion-movements as well as the future of progressive clothing design; the MoMu’s affiliation with the Antwerp Six and the exclusibe Royal Academy of Fine Arts / Fashion Department ensure the exhibits are always equally inspiring and informative.

8. BEST BOOKSTORE: COPYRIGHT Conveniently located adjacent to the MoMu, Copyright specialises in a wide range of books on all disiplines in the Creative Arts. Art; Fashion;Architecture; Graphics; Cinema; Industrial Design; Performance Art... Copyright has it all, including rare monographs and signed editions. For those obsessed with any type of design, this is the place.

ANTWERP

ANTWERP THE DENHAM RETAIL EXPERIENCE COMES TO ANTWERP

DENHAM STORE | ANT WERP LOMBARDENVEST 32

photos: Maxine Fauconnier

“The designers at Denham have long admired Antwerp’s international reputation for design and fashion and are extremely proud to be presenting their brand concept within such a deeply respected European style-mecca”. J. Denham.

SIGNATURE DENHAM ATMOSPHERE Developed by Denham’s in-house design team, the store’s décor celebrates a dynamic contrast between the old and new.

Integrated within an overall clean, bright and modern space original details include bespoke surfacing crafted from reclaimed American yard-sticks, vintage scissors featuring museum-quality antique tailor’s shears from around the world, re-purposed vintage fitting-room doors as well a primary display of Denham’s most popular cuts presented on modified scissors alongside the most popular washes displayed on adapted laundry-facets.

Throughout the shop Denham’s design ethos worshipping tradition while destroying convention is on show in both the collection and the interior design.

MODERNIT Y MEANS MOVEMENT - OBSESSED WITH CONTEMPORARY PERFORMANCE One of the inspirations for the latest delivery of 5-pocket denim and jean-oriented separates came from the golden era of European bike racing and the history of the original “factory Teams”. The designers envisioned a mythical Denham Factory Team speeding through cities steeped in bicycle tradition like Antwerp.

Mixing workwear utility and classic sport motifs, celebrating the sportier side of the Jeanmakers’ character with the creation of a Nine Streets Rally that witnesses its riders

touring the self-same streets where Denham has made it’s home in the Netherlands, Germany, Great Britain, Japan and Australia. Workwear and jean-culture friendly colors of blues and neutrals are supplemented with a wide range of track-suit inspired grey marls and accented with just a hint of racing red. Sport-inspired cut-and-sew panel effects, inset and printed racing stripes and direct references to the theme show up in cycle headbadge artwork and team & rally graphics.

R A L LY E U R O

NEW A R R I VA L S PRE-WINTER (15) COLLECTION IN STORES NOW

Q&A AS OBSESSED WITH OUR BIKES AS THE JEANS WE RIDE IN LIAM MAHER Tell us about your bike(s)?

When my wife and I moved here from Vermont, we sold 2 old cars and 3 old motorcycles. We thought we’d diminish our carbon footprint considerably. With the money we earned we bought some bikes. I specialise in bikes for posers.

2. BIOMEGA MN01 FIXED Marc Newson design (featured in some of our early catalogues) 3. COMAR SINGLE RACER Built in Amsterdam

STREET

4. BESPOKE VINTAGE Built by (BOB FRIEND) Tell us about the jeans you ride in Even more embarassing, i’ve been taking the tram a lot recently. But when I do ride, there’s nothing better than a bit of stretch. And astride a dope modern bike like the Marc Newson, you’ve got to wear a cool black or grey, right? So for me it would be the RAZOR SLIM FIT in GREY ASH STRETCH.

Embarassing really but my list is: 1. BIOMEGA COPENHAGEN Shaft drive

ALI KIRBY Tell us about your bike(s)?

I’ve lived in Amsterdam for over 15

years. My first and trusted steed throughout this period in my life is still my go-to bike around town.

It’s chauffeured me to numerous gigs and parties and got me home safely (sometimes with very little recollection). It’s helped me move house, (yes, in Holland it’s OK to transport your possessions by bike) and it’s unseated it’s rider on numerous occasions thankfully with no breakages.

2.

MONTAGUE MOUNTAIN BIKE Built for combat

MILITARY

1. 1950’s Original Swedish Army Kronan.

Solid steel. It’s peddle to the metal. Without the speed.

Since moving out to the countryside I now commute on a miltary grade mountain bike.

Completely inpractical over a flat road Dutch landscape but looks good so that’s alright then. It also folds-up to a back-pack carrying size. Developed to allow airborne soldiers to drop out of airplanes and helicopters, and into combat.

Or in my case, folds-up and stored neatly above the washing machine.

Tell us about the jeans you ride in When i’m on my Kronan i’m commited to breaking in 5 Year Anniversary 2-Dip RAZOR slim fit jean.

When i’m on the high saddled mountain bike I’m at full stretch, so i’m most comfortable in BOLT Double Black Stretch denim.

LONG LASTING ARCIFORM SHOULDER LINE

MODERN RAGLAN SLEEVE CONSTRUCTION

CIRCULAR LOOM SEAMLESS CONSTRUCTION

UNDERARM SIDE-PANEL GUSSET RIBBING

S S

“ ignature taples” OBSESSED WITH THE PERFECT JEAN-ORIENTED WARDROBE INTRODUCING DENHAM’S SIGNATURE STAPLES. This season we’ve introduced a special range of signature styles in other categories designed to stand on their own as well as go great with your favourite jeans.

The design team have pushed each of these styles through Denham’s unique creative filter, ensuring that each one represents both distinct design and effortless wearability. These basics are not like other brand’s basics, but they are just as versatile and reliable.

S I G N AT U R E S T Y L E

W ear Pattern MASTERING THE LAUNDRY: OBSESSED WITH THE PERFECT RECIPE

This issue is dedicated to obsessions, and particularly our obsession with capturing the natural increase in beauty, sex-appeal, comfort, character and cool that literally maps itself over the surface of the denim over time. It’s much more than just a ‘washing’, it’s a 3D painting of a life - it’s full of energy, balance and nuance.

Our wash-recipes are recorded in special books. Each book details both the old-world techniques and the newworld technologies we employ to produce exactly the natural wear effects we are after. Each book can have up to 50 pages because each wash is developed in subtle layers and each one wraps around the jean in full 3D.

Each season we work with the world’s best laundry-labs as well as traditional wash-houses to capture those elusive characteristics of a new batch of ‘recipes’. - Think of them as ‘secret recipes’ if you like.

We can’t show you the latest recipes, because they’re secret. But our newest jeans and our newest finishes were developed using the recipe-pages that look similar to the ones shown here from our earlier collections.

FA L L W I N T E R ( 1 5 )

The Perfect Recipe MASTERING THE LAUNDRY: OBSESSED WITH THE PERFECT RECIPE STEP ONE: OBSERVE Notice great jeans around you. Friends who’ve worn their favourite 5-pockets into the coolest and most effortless patinas.

STEP TWO: STUDY Spend time in the Denham Garment Library, diggin through stacks of specimens that demonstrate the most authentic effects of wear, weather and wash.

STEP THREE: SHOP FOR INGREDIENTS Work with the best Italian denim mills to select or develop the denim fabrics that will produce the most exciting natural wash-effects.

STEP FOUR: TRIAL & ERROR To create something fresh and mouth-watering, you need to be prepared to try some crazy stuff and make some big mistakes.

STEP FIVE: FIGURE OUT WHICH COMES FIRST laundry recipes are ‘written’ in stages. Just like gourmet cooking, which is why they’re called recipes. Fade, abrade, stiffen, soften, kimble, press, tear, repair..all in the right sequence. Screw it up and you’ve got to start again.

STEP SIX : WRITE IT DOWN STEP SEVEN: LOCK THE FILE CABINET Recipes are like inventions, they’re hard-won and should be well-protected... it helps ensure the quality and integrity (just ask the folks at Coca Cola).

M

“ ap your Life”

photos: Mathijs Hanenkamp

SERVICE CONCEPTS TO ENSURE A JEAN THAT MAPS TO YOUR LIFE In our home market in the Netherlands; in London; in Japan or on-the-road, we have obsessively pioneered comprehensive denim maintenance and repair services for our customers around the world. The real ‘holy grail’ is a wear pattern enhanced by your own life. One way to help get there is to support denim enthusiasts with the help they need to personalise their own individual jean the old fashioned way... - by wearing the living shit out of it.

FROM OUR VIRGIN TO YOUR VINTAGE Our Service Co. operations feature restored vintage machines from the US and Germany including Union Special - 39300c security overlock machines; Union Special - 34500 chainstitch hem machines; Singer- 47W70 darning repair machines and Durkopp - 212-105 Lockstitch machines.

All re-housed in workstations making it easy to interact directly with customers.

Check out the latest repairs in the Service Co. section in our blog.

SERVICE CO.

The notion of a great journey is usually central within the mythology of great cultures.

Denim culture is no different.

For us it is the heroic journey..

photos: Pief Weyman

J M

“The ean aker” THE SECOND EXPLICIT REMAKE Last year Denham released a good-natured cinematic send-up of urban hipsters with Denham Psycho. On April 15th the Amsterdam-based denim brand will premier the long awaited follow-up; The Jeanmaker during Amsterdam Denim Days. This time the focus is on obsessive denim culture and particularly the manic attention to the “perfect wear pattern” that characterizes both the people who make jeans, and the ones who wear them. –Including those working at Denham.

Instant vintage kits, fake beards, crunchy denim and a Peruvian vicuña all feature prominently in The Jeanmaker, which follows a celebrated denim designer – the Howard Hughes of the denim industry – hell-bent on ‘out-Vintaging’ the competition. But as the collection launch nears, his unwillingness to compromise leads him to personal disaster.

The Jeanmaker is the second film in Denham’s ‘Explicit Remake’ series in which the denim brand reimagines cinematic classics transforming them into sharp contemporary parables.

“Working with Denham the last few years I’ve learned that jeanmaking is primarily about obsessing the details,” says director Hugo Keijzer, who conceived the Explicit Remake series and created The Jeanmaker with production company Mike TeeVee and writer John Weich. “But just when you think you’ve got this perfect uncompromised product you get sidetracked by new ideas. This short film captures the moment when you lose control of your creation.”

“These short films are our slightly absurd way of exploring our inner denim demons,” adds Jason Denham.

“The passion we put into our jeans return in the film in a way you can’t achieve in traditional advertising. -Is this even advertising? It’s more like a confession or maybe even a kind of exorcism.”

The Jeanmaker will premier at Amsterdam’s Ketelhuis Cinema on April 15th during Amsterdam Denim Days and just prior to its worldwide digital release. Denham Newsletter subscribers will be first to gain access to out-takes, deleted scenes and other exclusive material.

Subscribe online at Denham via ww w.denhamthejeanmaker.com

EXPLICIT REMAKE

DENHAM TO PREMIER THE JEANMAKER A C I N E M AT I C PA R O D Y O F O U T R A G E O U S D E N I M O B S E S S I O N

PRESENTS

A REMAKE WRITTEN BY JOHN WEICH DIRECTED BY HUGO KEIJZER PRODUCED BY MIKE TEEVEE

C I N E M AT O G R A P H Y B Y R O B B I E V A N B R U S S E L PRODUCTION DESIGN BY SIMON BOWLES EDITED BY NILS RENSEN

THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS www.denhamthejeanmaker.com

S C R E E N I N G AT W W W. D E N H A M T H E J E A N M A K E R . C O M F R O M 1 6 T H A P R I L

INSPIRED BY NOMADIC TRIBES OF THE MONGOLIAN STEPPES. CELEBRATING THE LOVE OF LIFE-WORN FABRICS AND NATURAL DENIM FINISHING.

W inter Preview” “

OBSESSION WITH THE BEAUT Y OF WEAR CONTINUES...

The creative starting-point for Winter 2015 consisted of a group of images of winter nomads. Mongolian tribes originating with the Nomadic empires, sometimes also called steppe empires from Central or Inner Asia.

Traditionally bow-wielding, horseriding, nomads who integrate modern elements and contemporary components within an otherwise ancient lifestyle.

The Denham interpretation of this inspiration combined elements of nomadic patchwork, quilting and “field repair” with modern technical and sport accents celebrating Denham’s own tradition in winter clothing design as well as carrying over subtle elements from Denham’s latest “core” denim delivery. The mix of ragged and refined, Spartan and sport, low-tech and high-tech provides a unique source of excitement in the collection but the overriding color inspiration focuses on deep evocative indigo.

Blue tones from dark navy through kendo-blue, through indigo and on to the bright dome-blues of the winter sky all work to harmonize these underlying contrasts and produce a unified overall atmosphere.

OBSESSION WITH THE BEAUT Y OF NATURAL AGING. “THE ART OF RE-CUT ”

PREVIEW FA L L W I N T E R ( 1 5 ) Crafted in highly limited editions, our latest Recut projects feature brickwork-patched fragments of indigo-soaked vintage cloth and object-dyed military grade wools.

The Blanket Flight jacket silhouette combines a WWII flight jacket and a traditional duffel coat, finished with hand made monkey knots and fully lined in silk.

OBSESSED WITH TECHNIQUE: DENHAM X FACING WEST COLLUSION

photo: Marc Haers

FA C I N G W E S T www.facingwest.co To add depth and character to the new collection, we’ve partnered with local indigo-hero Facing West on a special design for our Indigo Nomads collection.

Recognizing a kindred spirit and an unbridled and youthful energy in the neighbourhood, the team at Denham partnered with Lizzie’s concept - Facing West, to produce the latest Collusion styles. For men Denham has re-imagined its popular MA-Bomber design, refabricating it in rich Italian Setura fabric combined with French re-cut brick-patched canvas and lined with repurposed British Shemagh scarves. The entire design is brought to life with a deep indigo garment-dye and features Facing West’s distinct twist on ‘Boro stitch’ embroidery often seen on vintage Japanese workwear.

What is so clever about 2501’s works is the fact that he is masterfully able to achieve an organic, 3D feel in his art through the use of lines. This manipulation of lines, placed against a plain background, delivers a hypnotizing effect to all his works of art. initially anticipated.

Sharp and elegant, the end product of his artistry is aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

Another component visible in 2501’s art is his use of circles. The integration of this element in to his work provides a vulnerability that is unexpected next to the dominance of his line work. Once fixated on his image, you realize that you need the focal point of the round form to train the eye on what is surrounding the piece.

With that, 2501 successfully makes the eye of the viewer constantly go back and forth between both details.

In all his creations, whether it be canvas, paper, or walls, there is an obvious progression in size, detail and complexity that accompanies 2501’s works.

His installations, in comparison, grant his audience a more natural, organic contrast to what is customary in his other pieces. His ability to play with different forms of media while remaining devoted to line use has allowed 2501 to develop into the incredible artist that he is today.

2501 OBSESSED WITH ANONYMIT Y: DENHAM X 2501

Our latest Artist collaborator is 2501. An exceptional creative who creates ‘nomadic experiment’ works of art. Invited by us to express elements of our brand signature within a special artwork in his unique style for our ongoing Guest Artist project. www.2501.org.uk (text credit: Streetartbio.com) If there were ever an artist who truly captured the fundamentals of art, it would have to be 2501.

Italian artist 2501’s works are visually stunning, diving head first into the essence of line art through his use of monochromatic color schemes that emphasize his technique.

With the incorporation of an additional solid color found in the majority of his works, your eyes are automatically drawn to what 2501 has masterfully achieved through his line work. It is this color contrast that grants the mind a brief reprieve from the repetition of his line use. Whether uniform in nature or varying in widths and pattern, this line work allows 2501 to capture the particular form or movement that he is trying to convey in his piece.

HOUSE GUEST

photo: Philip Jintes

DBenim ar MENS DENIM BAR RUNSTRAAT 18, AMSTERDAM The latest Denham shop in Amsterdam reflects the most fundamental aspect of the brand’s essential character.

Jeans. Taking its place adjacent to Denham’s other outposts in the city’s 9-Streets in neighborhood, the new store represents the cornerstone of the brand’s “deconstructed flagship” in the area. Consumers have enjoyed moving effortlessly between each of Denham’s dedicated concepts which are conveniently clustered around the intersection of the Runstraat and the Prinsengracht, a corner that has taken-on the spirit of a modest Denham Village.

The Men’s Denim Bar at #18 on the Runstraat focuses resolutely on Denham’s 5-pocket offering for men. Contemporary jean fits available in a mouthwatering array of authentic and naturally balanced washes take center stage in the new retail space.

Complimenting the focal 5-pocket statement, the shop also sells Denham’s new Signature Staples. Tubular jersey, reinforced oxfords, gusseted sweats and other upgraded basics represent an easy compliment to jeans. Also on offer is Denham’s purist line of integrated Indigo Dyestuff styles – jersey, shirting, layering, knits and jackets all soaked in blue and inspired by denim culture.

To finish it all of the Men’s Denim Bar is also the new home of Denham’s legendary Service Co. repair and alterations operation. Customers in the new shop can begin their individual journey with premium denim and receive ongoing support and service as their jean becomes even more beautiful, comfortable and personal over time.

RU N S T R A AT 1 8

photo: Philip Jintes

DBenim ar WOMENS DENIM BAR RUNSTRAAT 15, AMSTERDAM DENHAM LAUNCHES FIRST DEDICATED DENIM-BAR FOR WOMEN Denham the Jeanmaker adds a fundamental new component to their retailing concept in the brand’s hometown hub of the 9-streets neighborhood in Amsterdam.

The new 120 square meter shop sits directly adjacent to Denham’s existing women’s boutique on Runstraat just across from Denham’s unique Service Co. alteration and repair shop and around the corner from the men’s store and design studio. The first of its kind, the new store has been developed as the ultimate go-to location and one-stop venue for women in search of the perfect jean.

SIGNATURE DENHAM ATMOSPHERE Designed by Jason Denham himself, the store features a fresh new suite of architectural details. Bespoke private dressing-rooms positioned around the 300° fitting enclosure are crafted from recycled wardrobes inspired by a mix of Brighton beach-hut and Alice in Wonderland. The store’s décor integrates unique elements including a museumgrade Japanese costume displayed on antique yoga bars, a collection of vintage tailoring and dressmaking scissors and a hybridised indigo artwork by the Columbian painter Juan Manuel Gomez. The shop’s denim salon area opens out to an original city-garden flooding the interior with natural light and fresh atmosphere.

RU N S T R A AT 1 5

NAGOYA STORE CREARE, DESIGN CENTER BUILDING DENHAM OPENS NAGOYA STORE The new store will present a complete range of Denham products from both the core 5-pocket denim concept as well as the seasonal collection of jackets, knits, jersey, shirting and basics as well as semi-annual “house-guestartist” products and double-label “collusions” for both men and women. As in Denham’s other stand-alone stores, the Nagoya location will also offer a full suite of denim-oriented services including authentic Union Special chain-stitch alterations and repair.

SIGNATURE DENHAM ATMOSPHERE Designed by the in-house Denham Design Team, the store features fresh new suite of architectural details.

Within an overall pristine and modern environment; Denham’s most popular washes are displayed along a row of reclaimed laundry-faucets, wall sections are accented with indigo-dyed wood, the parquet oak flooring follows the fishbone pattern of Denham’s iconic jean pocketing fabric. Appropriated mid-century architectural letter “D” marks the alterations and service area and an appreciation of timeless design is expressed in details like an indigoblue Eames chair in the seating area. The lighting plan has been developed to showcase bespoke lamps that were custom-made in Japan.

N A G O YA , J A PA N

WALL STREET JOURNAL I n t e r v i e w b y Ke v i n S i n t u m w a n g When did you first fall in love with denim?

I think I was born with it,

it is my name ‘Denham’, same pronounciation – different spelling.

I remember the first time I stepped inside a jeans laundry (around 20 years ago), when I first witnessed amazing huge industrial machines combined with magic potions and artisan tools and that was it,……… I was hooked..

What do you think accounts for the interest/obsession in quality denim over the past few years?

The recent heritage trend has been great for the denim industry because it has reminded people that denim is an incredible quality product that has stood the test of time.

It’s no coincidence that Jeans are the most popular choice by billions of people all over the planet everyday. Aside from being the most hard wearing, durable and comfortable pants ever made they also make us feel good. We all have our favourite pair of jeans that when we pull them on we know we are in good company.

Mens jeans : hand wash cold water (this will stop any shrinkage) – natural soap enzymes – no perfumes – no chemicals. Natural dry and fold away from daylight (otherwise the indigo will fade).

Women’s jeans : 40 degrees machine wash inside out (this will tighten them up, soften them and put them back in to shape) , take them out of the machine and refold the right side out. Finger press in to shape and natural dry.

Is there ever a point when you should throw out a pair of jeans or they’re beyond repair?

Are you crazy?

What piece of denim should a guy consider besides a pair of jeans?

Shirts and jackets but avoid the Canadian Tuxedo. Its 2015. Its not a good look.

You can trust your jeans they won’t let you down. They are like your best friend.

What’s the proper way to hem your jeans?

If you’re wearing regular jeans made from wide goods denim then a normal chain stitch hem will suffice. If you are wearing selvedge denim then a small 1.5” cuff , single or double fold and don’t be shy to wear them short and show off your boots or sneakers.

Are there any secrets to breaking in raw denim?

Yes, don’t wash them for as long as you or your partner can tolerate them. We suggest hanging them outside to air on regular occasions and don’t be fair weathered about it. If you are going to seriously break in a jean then you need to wear them them every day, 24/ 7. The good news is that the ‘breaking in’ process takes about 1 year if you do it right. After this you can happily wash your Jeans as often as you like.

What are some brands that you admire think people should know about?

How would you describe each?

LEVIS because they invented it (Thank you mr Strauss), Adriano Goldschmied because he is a living legend that this industry owes a lot to and DENHAM because I put my heart and soul in to this brand and everyone should see it!

What’s the best way to care for your jeans when it comes to washing them? And storing/folding them?

Do you have a denim icon? Someone who you think wears it best?

Him: Justin Theroux (the writer / actor) Her: Daria Werbowy (the off duty model)

INTERVIEW: WSJ

photo: Kelly Fober

Denim Dudes”

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by AMY LEVERTON photo: Tom Medwell

DENIM DUDES: STREET STYLE. VINTAGE. WORKWEAR. OBSESSION. It is a bold statement to say that “denim is the most important fabric of the twenty-first century” but one that surely must resonate with a world in which half of its population, at any one time, is wearing a pair of jeans. Fact.

From founders of denim companies to designers, actors, musicians, creative directors, CEO’s and store owners, Denim Dudes leaves no sartorial stone unturned in the quest to hunt down the perfect pair of jeans and discover the most desirable denim, asking what exactly makes this once working-men’s fabric just so appealing?

Shot on the streets of Paris, Tokyo, London, New York, LA, Milan, San Francisco, Amsterdam, Stockholm, Barcelona, Melbourne, Gothenburg and Sydney, by no-less than 14 different photographers, the book explores the great versatility and allure of denim in all its different guises; from changing styles and cuts to classic items that never go out of style.

Key players in the global denim business featured include; Jason Denham (Denham), François Girbaud, (Marithé + François Girbaud), Adriano Goldschmied (Diesel, 7 For All Mankind) and Kenichi and Kenji Shiotani (Warehouse Japan).

Denim Dudes offers unrivalled insight into the stylish and sometimes eccentric ‘dudes’ involved in this fascinating and diverse industry.

Amy Leverton is a denim expert who has worked in the industry for ten years, most recently at the leading trend forecasting website, WGSN, where she is currently Director of Denim and Youth Culture.

JASON DENHAM ‘I’ve worn jeans all my life; they are my style choice, my passion and my hobby. For 20 years I have obsessively collected denim and everything that goes with it, and I’m lucky that I have turned this in to my day job! I designed my first jean at university in England and I haven’t looked back since.

‘First the jeans. I am wearing a five-pocket Denham model called Grade, naturally worn in for three years and handwashed five times. They’re made from 12.5-oz Japanese selvedge virgin (raw), which is my favourite cloth to wear in.

‘The jacket is our Mao style. It’s a worker jacket, part inspired by Chinese and French workwear, with signature collar scissors. The shirt is a blue oxford Pin model, with an indigo pique tie.

‘It’s blue all the way for me, except a flash of colour on my Jack Purcells – they’re Hudson Bay limited editions.’

. penings O and S vent E pecial S ., o C ervice S the from ighlights ,H L. G D he ,T rchive A cissor S T he T U O B A D A E R D N A online O G

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S C R E E N I N G AT W W W. D E N H A M T H E J E A N M A K E R . C O M F R O M 1 6 T H A P R I L

“ L O N G A W A I T E D F O L L O W- U P T O

“DENHAMS 2ND

D E N H A M ’ S C A N N E S P R I Z E -W I N N I N G

EXPLICIT REMAKE IS EVEN MORE

V I R A L S E N S AT I O N ”

SHOCKING THAN THE FIRST!”

PRESENTS

A REMAKE WRITTEN BY JOHN WEICH DIRECTED BY HUGO KEIJZER PRODUCED BY MIKE TEEVEE

C I N E M AT O G R A P H Y B Y R O B B I E V A N B R U S S E L PRODUCTION DESIGN BY SIMON BOWLES EDITED BY NILS RENSEN

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