May 2014
ISSUE 01 The Truth is in the Details
ISSUE
1
WELCOME TO DENHAM. A br and char ac terized by our love of produc ts AND our passion for story telling
IN THIS ISSUE:
BEST OF AMSTERDAM Denham cit y guide
DENHAM X BUTCHER wear Retrospect
INDIGO DYESTUFF A dye trip TO Japan
CATEGORY FIVE 5-Pocket classic jeans
FLICKERING WALL... DENHAM PSYCHO
DENHAM X A .C.F. FOR United Arrows
5 YEAR ANNIVERSARY Limited Edition jean
COFFEE & CONCEPT STORE Prinsengracht 531
DENHAM X TENUE DE NîMES Collaboration JV SWEAT
FROM VIRGIN TO VINTAGE the DENHAM Service Co.
RETAIL NEWS Recent store openings
DENHAM X CONVERSE JACK PURCELL Sneaker
THE TRUTH IS IN THE D ETAI L S w w w. d e n h a m t h e j e a n m a k e r. c o m
IN T h e PORT o f A m s t e r d a m 16
KINGPINS
SHOW
17 2 11 15
17
12 10
5 13
14
4 7
1
9
6
8
4
3
DENHAM STORES www.denhamthejeanmaker.com FLAGSHIP STORE Hobbemastraat 8 MENS STORE Prinsengracht 495 WOMENS STORE Runstraat 17 COFFEE CONCEPT STORE Prinsengracht 451
BEST FURNITURE STORES LIBERTINE Prinsengracht 715 RAW MATERIALS Rozengracht 231 w ww.rawmaterials.nl NEEF LOUIS Papaverweg 46 w ww.neeflouis.nl
BEST BREAKFAST BAKKERSWINKEL Warmoesstraat 133 w ww.debakkerswinkel.nl GREENWOOD Singel 103 w ww.greenwood.eu
BEST SNEAKER STORES BASKETS Elandsgracht 57 www.basketsamsterdam.com 290 SQUARE METERS Houtkopersdwarsstraat 3 290sqm.com PATTA Zeedijk 57 www.patta.nl
BEST GALLERIES GALLERY VASSIE Langestraat 47 w ww.gallery vassie.com THE GARAGE Brouwersgracht 75 w ww.thegarageamsterdam.com REFLEX Weteringschans 79 w ww.reflexamsterdam.com
BEST LUNCH FOODWARE Looisergracht 12 w ww.foodware.nl ANDAZ HOTEL Prinsengracht 587 w ww.andaz.hyatt.com CAFE AMSTERDAM Watertorenplain 6 w ww.cradam.nl
BEST DINNER CHOW Rozengracht 106 w ww.restaurantchow.nl BOCINQ Prinsengracht 494 w ww.bocinq.nl LION NOIR Reguliersdwarsstraat 28 w ww.lionnoir.nl CASTELL Lijnbaansgracht 252 w ww.castellamsterdam.nl PIZZA PAZZI 1e Looiersdwarsstraat 4 w ww.pazziamsterdam.nl
DENIM DAYS 7th - 10th May Westergasfabriek www.amsterdamdenimdays.com
KINGPINS
SHOW KINGPINS 7th - 8th May Westergasfabriek www.kingpinsshow.com
D E N H A M FAV O U R I T E S COFFEE BAR (1) DENHAM - Prinsengracht 531 www.denhamthejeanmaker.com My favorite coffee of the day is my Buscaglione macchiato at the DENHAM COFFEE & CONCEPT corner. Jason CINEMA (2) The Movies - Haarlemmerdijk www.themovies.nl With its beautiful Art Deco interior, this is the oldest cinema in Amsterdam renowned for its art house film. Don’t miss the special midnight screenings. Enjoyed in an empty cinema with lovers, drinks on ice and the whirring sound of the movie reel. Ali MUSEUM (3) The RijksmuseUm www.rijksmuseum.nl 10 years was a long time but after a decade of restoration it’s a stunning achievement 15 minutes walk from Denham. 2nd prize goes the Eye Film Museum. Liam
w ww.skins.nl Skins offer a great premium range of cosmetics, from the more known ones, such as diptique, aesop and le labo, to smaller organic brands. Vivian SPA (10) C. COSMETICS & CARE - Herenstraat w ww.cosmeticsandcare.com The next best thing to a massage in Bali is C Cosmetics and Care. All their products are made of pure & natural ingredients, they believe that if you can’t eat it, you shouldn’t put it on your skin! Note: They also recommend that you don´t eat their products. Ellen ACCESSORIES (11) Concrete Matter - Haarlemmerdijk w ww.concrete-matter.com The ultimate ‘boys store’. Ben
COCKTAIL BAR (14) HIDING IN PLAIN SIGHT - Rapenburg w ww.hpsamsterdam.com Delicious cocktails and it feels like you’re a time traveler when you enter HPS. The look & feel is vintage, more or less like the Roaring Twenties… music, interior, people and of course the classic cocktails with a modern twist, everything is just perfect! Milou Restaurant (15) w ww.restauranttoscanini.nl TOSCANINI - Lindengracht. I’m a sucker for great traditional Italian slow food. Toscanini is the place to be for pasta lovers. My favourite: the pasta with white fish, anchovy sauce and fried breadcrumbs. Yummm! Sanne GALLERY (16) Vous été ici - Ms. van Riemsdijkweg 41A w ww.Vouseteici.nl A magic trip on the water worth. Be prepared for maximum impact of marvellous photographic artworks. The place is energetic and addictive, especially with the works of Scarlett Hooft Graafland, magic realism! Sven BAR (17) FINCH - Noordemarkt Great laid back spot to have breakfast. Roy
BOOK STORE (4) MENDO - Berenstraat www.mendo.nl www.stedelijk.nl A store full of cool design books to discover, great staff and an ambiance that makes you want to stay and read for hours. Another favourite is the bookshop at Stedelijk museum. Diverse inspiring collection with some rare items. Catharina SHOE STORE (5) Bijenkorf and Shoebaloo offer the best buy of International designer shoes, from high heels to premium sneakers. TOP TIP: Because the style of the city of Amsterdam is quite casual, with sneakers leading the trend, during sale season there are a lot of seasonal “must-have” styles still in stock…! Marianne VINTAGE STORE (6) Retro & Chic - Staalstraat For Vintage in very good state from 1920’s; including accessories (shoes!!) and lingerie. A very small shop where you will be amazed by originality, offer and service. Susan DESIGN STORE (7) Believe the Hype - Hazenstraat www.believethehype.nl TENUE DE NIMES - Elansgracht www.tenuedenimes.com This is not the regular ‘design’ store, at Believe the hype you can buy custom made tee’s and sweats with your own designs. A few doors down is Tenue de Nimes, great store with very well executed merchandise. Lara INTERIOR STORE (8) Harvest & co. - Tweede Helmersstraat www.harvestandcompany.com Best selection of designer- and industrial vintage in the city. Great guys with great door to door service. (secret: they also serve amazing coffee!!) Joep COSMETICS STORE (9) Skins Cosmetics - Runstraat
PARK (18) WESTERPARK Head to Westerpark and go for a Sunday morning run. Or find the best cafés, galleries and eateries like De Bakkerswinkel. Rene
FOOD STORE (12) Caulils delicatessen & catering Haarlemmerstraat 115 w ww.caulils.com Great wine, great cheese, great service. The best place to buy your stuff for a perfect sunday afternoon with friends. Sonja PLACE FOR LUNCH (13) BAR SPEK - Admiraal de Ruijterweg w ww.barspek.nl Bar Spek, located in an upcoming neighborhood, is my escape from the busy city centre. A sunny terrace, an open kitchen and amazing food is what awaits you. Try the fried eggs with bacon and cheese. Maggy
“ T h E J EANMAKER TAKES ON
B O LT
| TIGHT 4 1 ” SEAT 2 3 . 5 ” THIGH 1 5 . 5 ” KNEE 1 3 . 5 ” CU F F
RAZOR
| S L IM 4 2 . 5 ” SEAT 2 5 ” THIGH 1 6 ” KNEE 1 4. 5 ” CU F F
DRILL
RAZOR
| REGU L AR 4 3 ” SEAT 2 5 ” THIGH 1 6 .7 5 ” KNEE 1 5 ” CU F F
“...to create a well-balanced mouth watering jean requires the perfect laundr y recipe & knowing when to take your pen off the paper...”
THE c l a s s i c 5 - POCKET J EAN ”
SHARP
| SKINNY 3 6 ” SEAT 2 0 . 5 ” THIGH 1 3 ” KNEE 1 0 .7 5 ” CU F F
SHARP
MARIANNE
| HIGH SKINNY 3 6 ” SEAT 2 0 . 5 ” THIGH 1 3 ” KNEE 1 1 . 5 ” CU F F
POINT
| CARROT 3 9 ” SEAT 2 3 . 5 ” THIGH 1 4. 5 ” KNEE 1 2 . 2 5 ” CU F F
Contemporar y fits with a natural attitude in a range of washes that celebrate authentic wear-patterns and our attempt to strike the perfect balance.
2008-2013: Happy 5 Year Anniversary. Limited Edition R a zor Slim in 2-Dip or Drill Regul ar 16 -Dip Virgin Indigo - 12oz Japanese Selvedge.
The heart and soul of everything we’ve done around here for the last five years is rooted in the history and tradition of the 5-pocket jean. Purists will tell you not to mess around with a classic, but our opinion is this;
th ere would b e n o classi c j e a n if a bu nch of b ra ve Gold -Rush era tailors ha d n’ t messe d a round w ith convent iona l work we ar in t he f irst place... So for us it was natural to celebrate our five year anniversary by rolling up our sleeves and taking another crack at the model that started it all, the classic 5-pocket slim fit jean.
“.....TO CREATE A WELL BALANCED MOUTH WATERING JEAN REQUIRES THE PERFECT LAUNDRY RECIPE & KNOWING WHEN TO TAKE YOUR PEN OFF THE PAPER.....”
5
YEAR A N N I V E R S A RY
It all starts with a pair of jeans crafted in virgin untreated denim. No wash, no distress. Brand new and enitrely unspoiled.
After years of wear, the maturity of the jean can be observed by it’s patina: spot repairs, darning, moustaching, rips and tears define the milestones in the life of a jean.
“Does true beauty really come with age? Hell yeah, but it’s all in the ser vice”
H i g h l i g h t s f ro m t h e S e rv i c e Co .
The notion of a great journey is usually central within the mythology of great cultures. Denim culture is no different. For us it is the heroic journey from Virgin to Vintage.
SER V ICES ARE AVAI L AB L E IN OUR AMSTER D AM , TOKYO , & SE L ECT F L AGSHIP STORES
Butcher’d Denim - “A Natural wear retrospect” working together with bob ‘ the butcher of blue ’ rijnders. 100 jeans each with their own story.
BUTCHER OF BLUE www.butcherofblue.com with Bob Rijnders How did you turn in to a butcher? After being a farmer all my life, the step to being a butcher is not that far :) seriously, butchering denim all your life qualifies you as a butcher! The butcher is KING – who is the QUEEN? My best friend and girlfriend Viv, and our two little princesses.
“been through a lot this year. Births, deaths, weddings, divorce. Ever ything in these jeans” -Danny THE BUTCHER’S DIARY
You made 100 BUTCHER X DENHAM Jeans and got them back for your archive. Which one is your favourite and why? It’s hard to choose but if i need to, it’s No# 026 from Mr Mensink. The guy made a big effort to wear it and keep up the diary entries! What is Hooglands best kept secret? The farmers who built it. Why is Holland the centre of denim right now? it is a process that started a long time ago! There are a lot of people who wear denim and so there are a lot of dedicated denim retailers, this helped to educate the consumer and get them involved. Right now a lot of denim company’s are settling their offices here in Holland. This is a positive development for the future of the denim industry. Keeping things together. What should I say: the Dutchies are just blue...? What inspires you? People; travelling; vintage; art; the road in life is pretty inspiring. What is your dream? Business wise to make THE BUTCHER OF BLUE one of the Dutch denim brands to be proud of. In 10 years from now you will be? I’ll be a farmer I think :) and telling myself that time goes to fast. Your biggest denim highlight so far is...? Starting Butcher Of Blue The next exciting news from the Butcher is…. Can’t tell you yet. Just keep checking butcherofblue.com
Better with Age: Denham x Butcher of Blue at Blueprint launching during Denim Days, the new Blueprint trade event at Westergasterrein will feature a special collaboration between B.O.B./Butcher of Blue side-by-side with Denham celebrating the two brand’s longstanding relationship. Both teams will be promoting beauty through natural ageing as it applies to denim. B.O.B. with a range of innovative “wear pattern diaries”, exhibited with beautiful worn in denim and key items of his collection. Denham with their archive replica washes from 1 year to 3 years worn and the “Service Co.” Repair Service. Both brands will also be sharing and selling special selections from their collections of one-ofa-kind vintage archives.
As easy as zero, one, two, three D OING THE L AUNDRY IS ABOUT A LOT MORE THAN WASHING JEANS. WASH RECIPES INVOLVE MULTIPLE PROCESSES AN D CAREFUL OVERSIGHT.
VIRGIN (0) YEAR Box fresh deep tone 16-dip indigo ready to take-on the pattern of your own unique lifestyle.
WORN (1) YEAR Shortcut to the break in & fade pattern of a premium denim jean after 1 year of regular wear. -Still dark, but definitely worn and starting to show natural high and low tones.
WORN (2) YEAR Shortcut to the break in & fade pattern of a premium denim jean after 2 years of regular wear. -Faded to a medium blue, a bit softer and even more character.
WORN (3) YEAR Shortcut to the break in & fade pattern of a premium denim jean after 3 years of regular wear. -A lighter overall bleached tone, a softer touch and tones of visible history.
COFFEE & CONCEPT STORE Prinsengracht 531, Amsterdam
Planned as essentially a threedimensional display window that visitors can shop from, the Coffee & Concept store is a source for in-depth product information and a place for visitors to engage with Denham, sharing in the brand’s passion for research, creativity and modern design.
The d esig n of t he sh op includ es space for rot a t ing fe ature disp la ys a s well as a re a s for i nformal b ra nd i nteractio n
photo: Tim Collins
complete with 188-piece mosaic marble bar, modern seating designed by Dutch designer Frisco Kramer by Revolt and premium daily coffee service to ensure visitors have a comfortable and relaxing experience. The location is the perfect compliment to the nearby mens and womens store locations which provide a framework for the full seasonal collections. This location carries a historic and emotional value among the Nine Streets community and we are honored to be able to invest in the property and breathe new life into this important local landmark. The coffee comes through a special collaboration with Buscaglione Coffee Company, equipped with the gold standard in coffee making equipment and barista trained staff.
photo: Philip JIntes
Coffee & Concept Store Amsterdam. Rotating Concept store. Fresh coffee and fresh ideas every SEVEN weeks.
HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE CONCEPT STORE
NOW SHOWING
NOW SHOWING
NOW SHOWING
NOW SHOWING
“ THE ART & SCIENCE”
“ T H E M A N Y FAC E T S ”
“ WHITE NORTH”
OF
COLLECTION
OF
T H I S S T O R E I S A R E V O LV I N G S H O W C A S E F E AT U R I N G S P E C I A L S T O R I E S F R O M O U R N E W FA L L ( 1 3 ) C O L L E C T I O N
T H I S S T O R E I S A R E V O LV I N G S H O W C A S E F E AT U R I N G S P E C I A L D E N I M S T O R I E S F RO M O U R N E W FA L L ( 1 3 ) C O L L E C T I O N
T H I S S T O R E I S A R E V O LV I N G S H O W C A S E F E AT U R I N G S P E C I A L S T O R I E S F R O M O U R N E W FA L L ( 1 3 ) C O L L E C T I O N
A L S O F E AT U R I N G U N I Q U E C O L L A B O R AT I O N S W I T H :
THE L AST CONSPIR ACY D A N N A R & D TA N N E R I E S
A CHANGE IS AS GOOD AS REST & THIS STORE CHANGES OFTEN
T H I S S T O R E I S A R E V O LV I N G S H O W C A S E F E AT U R I N G S P E C I A L S T O R I E S FROM OUR NEW SPRING (14) COLLECTION
A CHANGE IS AS GOOD AS REST & THIS STORE CHANGES OFTEN
A CHANGE IS AS GOOD AS REST & THIS STORE CHANGES OFTEN
A CHANGE IS AS GOOD AS REST & THIS STORE CHANGES OFTEN
THE TRUTH IS IN THE RETAI L
DENHAM ROPPONGI HILLS West Walk 3F, Roppongi Hills, Tokyo
DENHAM THE ROCKS The Rocks, Sydney
DENHAM OMOTESANDO HILLS Omotesando Hills B1F, Tokyo
DENHAM POP-UP The Blue Yard, Berlin
PRE - F A L L ( 1 4 ) CO L L ECTION IN STORES NOW
SPRING SUMMER (14) COLLECTION INSTORE NOW
WORSHIP TRADITION
DESTROY CONVENTION
• C O N T E M P O R A R Y T R E N C H C O AT
• TRI-SWING ACTION BACK
SPRING SUMMER (14) COLLECTION INSTORE NOW
and I need to find my glasses.
BLUE PRINT AMSTERDAM w ww.blueprintamsterdam.com w i t h Ce l i a G e ra e d t s What’s your favourite Shibori technique. Working with folding and clamping,the itajime shibori. You can create so many different outcomes, the end result is normally quite geometrical and clean. I love the way this works together with the fluidness of the indigo dye.
Amsterdams best kept secret? So many nice things, I am such a libra, I can’t choose! The man with giant bubbles, & the high poled nest for the ooievaars in vondelpark; the view & sound from Bimhuis jazzhouse in the evening; the L&B whisky bar, Chinese Massage No# 1 on the SIngel, the people are super friendly, they treat you like a queen & you enter a world where nothing else counts but relaxation. When I come out I can handle anything. First thing you do ever y morning and last thing you do at night? LOOK : At everything within my reach. In case I can’t see clear, that is a sign it is morning
What is your dream?
To p a s s my p a s s i o n fo r p ri nt i ng a nd d ye i ng w i t h anc i e nt te c hni q ue s , a nd en r i c h o t he r p e o p le s li ve s w i t h k now le d g e . To keep on coming up with cool concepts where Blue Print Amsterdam uses old techniques in new ways or products. And long-term to change the way of thinking when it comes to design / shopping / creating product, helping to make a more sustainable product by using veg / natural dyes and inks. What does Blueprint believe in? OUR HISTORY = OUR FUTURE. WE CHERISH & RE-DISCOVER OLD DYEING & PRINTING TECHNIQUES & CREATE NEW DESIGN, CONCEPTS & WORKSHOPS WITH THESE. Blue Prints main mission is to breathe new life into bygone crafts & share what kind of amazing designs and graphic concepts can be made, re-applying these techniques from the past. Blue Print strives to work as green as possible by re-using existing materials and creating handmade, natural and water based
In 10 years where will you be?
M a k i ng t he worl d a g re e ne r p la ce . T he n 30 se cond s la te r w a tc h as the ox yg e n t ur ns t he w hole worl d b l ue ! photo: Petrovsky & Ramone
Favourite city in the world? Sounds so dull, but every city has it’s own charm, all with different vibes and inspirations, If I could put together a city myself, it would have ingredients of all of these cities: -Washington for all its brilliant musea. -Shanghai for its upbeat vibe, and superenthusiastic people. -Tokyo for its sweet but insane rhythm and inspiration, but so hard to find your way! -Oxford for its history and class, -Portland for its innovation, green kindness and most amazing foodcarts -LA for its brilliant art / rock n roll beach mix.
Who inspires you? The Japanese crafts people I met on my trip, and off course my indigo master Bryan Whitehead, who taught me the skill of indigo dyeing. What I cherish about both is the commitment they show towards their passion, and the way everything is done with so much care, attention and love. From beginning till end, from starting a project, using tools with a story, working together with incredibly skilled people, creating a product with no pressure of time, but just being totally sucked into “making” from seed to plant; from plant to indigo; from indigo to yarn; from yarn to weaving machine; from cloth to product....and never in a hurry.
inks, and experimenting with vegetable & fruit dyes.
Indigo Dyestuff. It is more than a color. INDIGO. One pure blue river running through ancient dye -houses, heritage turn- of-the - century workwear and the iconic pioneer’s jean.
TA I KO X D E N H A M S A K E 100% MADE IN JAPAN with Hiro
Hiro’s mastery in the Japanese denim laundry is matched by his expertise in making Sake: “My father found evidence that our family sake business started in 1672, and 5 generations since. The actual brewing history of the Yoshikawa family can be tracked long before the Japanese Civil War period. My dad was a very keen brewer; using skills passed down from generation to generation, only using top quality rice from Yamada Nishiki, Gohakumangoku and Omachi, combined with pure underground natural mineral water originating from Mountain Ibuki, (which connects Osaka, Kobe and Kyoto to the Biwako Lake) to make sake worthy of our traditional motto representing quality and craftsmanship.
Sake is b elieved to contain a d iverse range of b enef it s i n ord e r to help stay you ng a nd h e althy.
HAR D GRA F T & THE BEST RAW INGRE D IENTS
photo: David Pattinson photo: David Pattinson
LIMITED EDITION APRON COLL ABOR ATION
This Spring, Denham launches an exclusive 3-way “collusion” Tailor’s Apron. The project has been inspired by last year’s demonstration/exhibition by the A.C.F.; The Hard Graft – The DJ Technique Applied to Menswear. Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh of Art Comes First partnered with Denham’s Design Director, Liam Maher to mount the event in Florence, New York, Copenhagen and Las Vegas celebrating hybridization in menswear and provoking their peers in the industry. True to Denham’s mantra –
Worship Tradition, Destroy Convention – the events witnessed the deconstruction and reconstruction of iconic menswear garments. At each leg of the tour, the A.C.F. crew appeared outfitted in Denham’s trademark selvedge denim aprons. Longtime supporters of both the A.C.F. and Denham, United Arrows & Sons commissioned a customized design of the apron inspired by the Hard Graft events. Jason and the rest of the Denham crew were happy to oblige and worked closely with
the A.C.F. to develop a special design capturing the spirit of the original Hard Graft – grafting together the design ethos of both the A.C.F. and Denham. The Aprons will be available in limited quantities only at United Arrows & Sons in Japan.
Denham + Tenue de Nimes “Double Dutch” sweatshirt
COMING SOON
D E N H A M H AV E J O I N E D F O R C E S W I T H the respected denim destination T enue de N î mes to create a limited edition allover printed D enham J .V. G usset varsity sweat L imited to 1 2 5 pieces , available for both genders .
photo: Tenue de Nimes
Tenue de Nîmes: Double Dutch Project Kindred spirits in our backyard... Another reason Amsterdam’s c anals run blue. Envisioned by Tenue de Nîmes, realized by Denham.
TENUE DE NîMES w ww.tenuedenimes.com
First thing you do in the morning and last thing you do at night? R: When I wake up I kiss my girl! Last thing is - I know - check my email. M: First thing in the morning is putting on my running shoes and go for a lovely run through a sleeping city. Last thing I do at night is an episode of for instance Boardwalk Empire - it clears the mind and makes sure I take a sleep in.
while: Buy less, pay more!
From Menno to Rene: I love working with you because….(and visa versa) R: Menno is a bloody controle freak. M: Rene is the best!
M & R : We wil l soon b e s how i ng o ur f irst Te nue d e Nî m e s j e a n to the worl d . I t to o k us 5 ye ar to d eve lop a j e a n t ha t we b e l ieve wil l b e a lo ng - t i m e b ud d y to a lot o f o ur b e love d f rie nd s.
From Menno to Rene – Renes worst habit is…….
What was your idea behind the TND x DENHAM collaboration design? Inspiration for this design comes from traditional Japanese monogram fabrics often used on light weight denim or chambray. Especially for this collaboration we developed a ‘Double Dutch’ monogram featuring Denham’s scissors, the Tenue de Nîmes ‘cross’ and the Amsterdam triple cross emblem.
Your biggest denim highlight so far is…… R: Our indigo re-birth at Bryan Whitehead’s Indigo Studio in Fujino last year. M: The birth of our Tenue de Nîmes Jeans.
Amsterdam’s best kept secret? Rene: Brandon / My second home on an average Friday night - just dirty glasses and a nice vodka or two. Menno: Lot61 Coffee Roasters, my liquid cocaine to start the day. Your favourite thing about TND?
R: It’s my first home, it’s me. M : F rom the ver y fir st bit of paint on t h e w al l o f ou r Elandsgrac h t sto re i t is some th in g we bu il t , s ome thing th at comes s traig ht from th e h e ar t.
R : M e nno i s a b lo o d y co nt ro le f re a k . M: Re ne i s co m p le te c ha o s !
In 10 years from now I will be …… R: In our Paris store. M: In our L.A. store. Your favourite moment of every day is…… R: When I open the store and enjoy an espresso knowing that today is gonna be a good day! M: The early morning is that time of the day I am at my very best. Who inspires you? M: Thanks to Miles Johnson (who inspires me always) I got to read ‘Let my people Go Surfing’ by Yvon Chouinard, founder at Patagonia. The way he explains about birth of his brand, his philosophies on retail and our global responsibilities as entrepreneurs amazed me! R: Christophe Loiron, Mister Freedom because he makes a living based his beliefs and pays no attention to fashion at all. I’d like to borrow this quote from him every once in a
What is the next story coming from TND?
photo: Tenue de Nimes
w i t h M e n n o Va n M e u r s & Rene Strolenberg
What is your dream? M&R: We always said that there will be a day that we own a little beach bar called ‘Yellow Albatros’ and the only concern we will have is who takes care of the board rentals or the life-guard chair (which includes the cold bears too) during that day.
J ACK PURCE L L x D ENHAM SNEAKER
CONVERSE JACK PURCELL x DENHAM SNEAKER Converse’s Jack Purcell represents the single most iconic trainer when it comes to projecting a particular blend of springin-your-step optimism, laid-back cool and unpretentious modernism. Impressive since the Jack Purcell style concept dates back to the 1930’s. When the design team at Jack Purcell approached Denham to create a special double-label “Collusion” edition, it was a match made in heaven. There’s more to Jack Purcell than the shoe’s legendary “smile”. The brand also has a formidable reputation for embracing contemporary design and challenging the boundaries of conventional sneaker styling – collaborating with some of the world’s best designers and brands such as Missoni, Sak, Clot, Comme des Garçons, John Varvatos, Dr. Romanelli, Masafumi Watanabe… to name just a few. Whether developed in Europe or Japan, each of these have represented what Denham considers the gold standard in quality and image. For the Denham x Jack Purcell Collusion the team at Denham focused on the brand’s unique approach to artwork and graphics. Each detail on the classic JP was
interpreted through Denham’s graphic lens. Modernist contrast was enhanced through color and material specification and artwork was translated to wrap naturally over the Jack Purcell chassis.
THE HIDDEN SMILE IN DENHAM’S SCISSOR LOGO - The most outspoken graphic feature on the Denham x Jack Purcell Collusion is the “scissor-face” design placed at the heel. In order to match Jack Purcell’s timeless optism, the Denham scissor logo turned its scissors on itself. The artwork was cut in half allowing the lower blades to be rotated 90 degrees creating a smile of its own.
all photos: Melody Lieftink
L AUNCH EVENT CONVERSE JACK PURCELL x DENHAM SNEAKER
“Before we create, we collect”
Item: Type: Date: Source:
JACK PURCELL ANKLE BOOT 3/4 TOP 1996 SOURCED IN LONDON
Details: -
Natural canvas Red smile Red sole Matching thread
Worship tr adition: Tr adition teaches qualit y. Destroy Convention: Conventio n prevents progress.
We collect not just to acquire; we collect to examine, analyze, and to learn. Decades in the making, the DENHAM GARMENT LIBRARY supplies the raw material for our research, design and development. Each item in the library tells a story and each one represents a starting-point for our collections.
Item: Type: Date: Source:
SAK X JACK PURCELL HANDMADE LIMITED EDITION 2010 MADE IN FLORENCE (ITALY)
Details: -
Hand made by SAK the shoemaker Calf leather Black smile Hand cut leather laces Printed Rubber sole
Our sing le mind ed o b session w ith work we a r is th e p rim a r y i nspiration for t he b ran d . Our conviction that deep knowledge comes with extensive research is central to the whole studio’s approach. Our growing archive is home for an expansive collection of archetypal jean models as well as workwear, military clothing and travel gear from the last century all the way up until today. We take inspiration from anyone and any place producing relevant ideas but we’re never content simply to reproduce someone else’s approach even if that person’s name has been safely lost to history. The research feeds our passion and our passion is to progress our tradition ever forward.
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CANVAS JACK PURCELL COTTON CANVAS CLASSICS 2008 SOURCED IN USA
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Natural canvas Blue smile Blue sole Matching stitch
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1ST ED. JACK PURCELL MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 2013 SOURCED IN LONDON
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Paint dipped Red cotton canvas Blue smile Blue sole Ecru stitch
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ORIGINAL CLASSIC DEAD STOCK - JAPAN 1940 SOURCED IN USA
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Black leather square toe Black smile Blue sole White stitch
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CHARITY JACK PURCELL PRODUCT RED / JOIN RED.COM SOURCED IN AMSTERDAM
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Red smile Red lining White sole White textured leather 3 x strap [Velcro]
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JACK PURCELL BEDWIN & THE HEARTBREAKERS 2009 SOURCED IN JAPAN
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Black leather Black smile Natural rubber sole Star eyelet Black Stitch
“A trip to the Library”
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1ST ED. JACK PURCELL COMMES DES GARCONS - ‘PLAY ’ 2012 SOURCED IN JAPAN
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Natural canvas Black smile & heel strip ‘Eyes’ love heart logo Black sole Matching stitch
presents :
“DENHAM PSYCHO” D irected by : H ugo K eijzer P roduced by : R emco den H artog C inematography by : R obbie van B russel E dited by : N ils R ensen W ritten by : B en C lark B ased on , “A merican P sycho ” by
B ret E aston E llis .
C ostume
I nitiated
THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS www.denhamthejeanmaker.com
A few Youtube comments...
by :
by :
DENHAM
F lickering W all
F l i c k e r i n g W a ll . . p r e s e n t s : “ D e n h a m P y s c h o ”
“11oz Stretch. The perfect Skinny. Practically your second skin.”
film stills from ‘DENHAM PSYCHO’
Whatever it takes to tell a great story. Flickering Wall.. presents : “Denham Pyscho”. the explicit remake. over half-a-million youtube views in the first week . and I always try to end with doing nothing. Being idle is the single most underrated activity in life. I used to try and cram as much of stuff in one day, but now I realize not doing anything is probably more important than all the other stuff. Doing nothing only works though if you can train yourself to do everything else with your full thought and attention.
www.youtube.com/denhampsycho w ww.flickeringwall.com w i t h H u g o Ke i j z e r Name your favourite all time movie. Sorry, but this is the only question I can’t answer. Wouldn’t even know where to begin. I live and love film so much that it’s impossible for me to pick just one favorite.
Favourite city in the world? Paris, without a doubt. I fell in love with that city as a young boy and it never let me go, even though (or perhaps because?) I don’t speak French. I’m a big fan of Berlin, Philadelphia and New Orleans too, but somehow the best parts in those cities are the ones that remind me of Paris. Amsterdams best kept secret? Waterland. The countryside just north of Amsterdam. It’s my favorite area for bicycling and when the sun’s out the rustique villages, small white bridges and picturesque churches will instantly throw you back in time. First thing you do ever y morning and last thing you do at night? Nothing. Everyday I start with doing nothing
What is your dream? To make my first feature film in the next three years. I’m working on a true event story set in North Carolina, and every night I dream about it getting greenlit. How did you came up with the idea of Denham Psycho? When I first saw American Psycho I kept thinking what an awesome commercial the business card scene would make for a printing company. It’s all right there. But then when I heard Jason and Liam talk about their product it reminded me of that same obsession for details. Jeans have a different target audience and it made me realize we shouldn’t only replace the cards for denim, but also transport the whole story to a different time and generation. My hidden aversion for the hipster culture came in handy. Did Denham psycho line up to your expectations? Yes and no. I know that a good story / well told will always stand out, but I never expected
Will there be a Denham Psycho Part II? I would love to do a full remake of American Psycho to hunt down and harpoon the hipster culture. Ben Clark (Writer of Denham Psycho) and I feel that the modern hipster scene will work perfectly as the new subject matter because hipsters are just as bad, if not worse than 80s bankers. They are also very topical at the moment. Whereas the 80s Wall Street crowd were contemptible, at least they were upfront about their love of money and material living. Modern hipsters are dishonest by their very nature; they hide behind the eminence front of hair styles and clothing stolen from real personalities and claim to be spiritual, environmentally friendly etc. while still engaging in hedonistic and self-fulfilling lifestyles that strip them of the basic compassion and sensibility that being “spiritual” and/or “green” requires. photo: Flickering Wall...
What do you love most about directing movies. Directing is recreating life in it’s most interesting version. I love a good story and to me films are stories in their most complete form.
Who inspires you? Gregory Crewdson. He’s an American photographer known for elaborately staged scenes of American homes and neighborhoods. What I love about his work is that he looks for the moments and places that most people would ignore. There’s a lot of beauty in everyday stuff, but the problem with our generation is that we don’t know how to capture it, so it become either a cliche or some pretentious art piece. Big eye opener for me was that Crewdson never uses a camera when he’s scouting for locations.
people to connect to the hipster parody side of it so well. Apparently we’re not the only ones who saw fun in this strange subculture.
D UTCH B L OGS WE L IKE T he fit of D e nha m j e a ns i s re a lly g re a t a nd a D e nha m j e a n ha s no t to m uc h f us s – c le a n f i t a nd lo o k & fe e l. Liza Chloë, Fashionblogger www.lizachloe.com
Tess Duinker, Editor in Chief w ww.fashionscene.nl
3,5 year ago I started my own fashionblog, a online platform on which I share my simplistic but edgy fashion style. I also blog for the The Vogue Blog Network of the Dutch Vogue. My favourite Denham fit is the Sharp. It is a nice and clean slim fit, which I wear in a classic black wash or an edgy coated burgundy. I also love the Denham’s boyfriend jeans, which to me look best in a worn-in ‘destroyed’ wash. What I really love are the coatings Denham uses for some of their jeans. Like most people, I have a great amount of denim stapled in my wardrobe. But a special coating is a good excuse for something new!
Favorite fit is the Point Carrot (Boyfriend fit) in lightly stone-washed. Denham always has the most amazing fits. What I appreciate a lot is that their boyfriend jeans are still slightly tapered, so you still look feminine, with a wink. I like to wear a good turtle neck or slightly cropped oversized jumper with my Denham jeans. Effortless and cool.
S tyle tip: I love to combine denim with le ather, i t’s casual bu t dres sed. I have big collectio n of biker jac kets. Comb ining on e with the pe rfe c t j e a n cre ate s yo u a look in no tim e.
As I get older I learn more and more what I like most and I realize that I always choose quality over
Roï is wearing the Commission trenchcoat. This SS14 camoprint linded trench is inspired by a vintage sturdy Czech military trenchcoat. Denham’s design team gave a modern take on the jacket by featuring our “triswing-back” innovation, which is a version on the classic “bi-swing-back”, traditionally used for heav y leather biker jackets to conform its material for a versatile fit.
The Stranded Sailors visted visited Denham and documented some great shots. Check the website for the full story.
Leroy Aznam Managing partner by IV Y LEE and blogger www.commedesleroi.com
D e n h a m ’ s b o y f r i e n d je an s are st i ll sl igh tly tap ered . Fem in in e, w it h a w in k.
quantity. My style is very simple, I invest in shoes and bags and keep the rest of my outfit as clean as possible. Think of a good white tshirt combined with a black skinny (high waist Marianne) or a nice wool sweater worn over wide trousers. A little boyish, with little color.
Roï Elmaliah Media Director at Baskèts & Curator at DailyMovement. w ww.dailymovement.com Anna Nooshin Online Entrepreneur / cofounder NSMBL w ww.NSMBL.nl I love a clean wash, in which the jean is really thin that the jean almost cracks. The more cleaner, the better.
Razor Slim Fit and the Hero Denim and 3 year washes are my favourite Denham pieces. Favourite detail? The scissor print in the pockets. I like to style my tapered light wash jean with an oxford shirt, cotton sweater and my Commission trench coat.
Sven Signe den Hartogh Founder of The Stranded Sailors w ww.strandedsailors.com My favourite fit is ‘’The Razor’’ a good slim fit in the dry variant. I never wear pre-washed jeans, so I don’t really have a favourite washing. I prefer the ‘’VJS’’ 7-Point Pocket stays my absolute favourite detail, meanwhile an iconic detail and easy to recognize.
W he n i t co m e s to s t y li ng yo ur d e ni m , p ut t he fo c us o n t he j e a n, we a r i t with t ur n- up s a nd co m b i ne i t w i t h a d e ni m s hi r t ! ( yo u ca n’ t g o w ro ng w i t h t ha t )
My Denham favourites are the Dry denim washes and the 5-point hip pockets. My denim styling tip: You can combine denim with everything you like. Mix and match wat suits you… “Mystery generates curiosity. Curiosity demands investigation. Investigation leads to discovery. Discovery feels like wonder”- L.Maher
Le roy p rof ile d our De sig n Dire ctor Liam Mahe r. To se e m ore of this inte r v iew, g o to Le roy ’s we b site commedesleroi. com .
denhamthejeanmaker Hosted by Jason Denham “The Truth is in the Details” w ww.denhamthejeanmaker.com
Denham “Social Club” GO online AND R E AD AB OU T The Scissor Archive , The DGL., Highlights from the Service Co., Special E ventS and Openings. W W W W.denhamthejeanmaker .com FOLLOW DENHAM ON INSTAGRAM. From the Amsterdam studio, through Japan’s denim mills to Italy ’s best washhouses and back again….