Newsprint #05

April 2016

ISSUE

5

ISSUE #5

HELIX / APE X EDITIONS OF BOLT, R A ZOR , TOKYO SHARP & MONROE FITS.

IN THIS ISSUE:

BEST OF HONG KONG DENHAM CIT Y GUIDE

TEAR & REPAIR SERVICE CO. IN HK

WORKING TOGETHER..

ANNA & YARA

LANE CRAWFORD HONG KONG

GARMENT LIBRARY LANE CRAWFORD CHENGDU

DENHAM EYES FAN OPTICS

ACTIVE FIT EVOLUTION HELIX/APEX EDITIONS

LAUNCHING...

ACTIVE DENIM

ART COMES FIRST HOUSE GUEST ARTIST #12

LIGHTER THAN AIR PRE-FALL NEW ARRIVALS

THE SKY'S THE LIMIT FALL (16) PREVIEW

DENHAM X GROLSCH DOUBLE PORTRAIT PROJECT

T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S w w w. d e n h a m t h e j e a n m a k e r. c o m

4

3 10 5 1 6

10

8

7

2 9

by SEASON CHAN 1. BEST COFFEE BAR The Brew Job Coffee – 3646 Hoi King St, Tai Kok Tsui, Kowloon, HK Curious to taste the best coffee of Hong Kong, go to the Brew Job where y o u c a n e n j o y your coffee with a little breeze outside.

2. BEST BAR Butler Bar - 5/F Mody House 30 Mody Road Tsim Sha Tsui, HK This bar serves perfectly crafted, individually tailored drinks and has an impeccable service. The bar isn’t easy to find because of the tiny, ultra exclusive venue, but it makes definitely the place worth the trip.

3. BEST RESTAURANT 愛文生飯店 – G/F 1C, Shek Kip Mei Street, Sham Shui Po, Kowloon, HK If you like to taste delicious local dai pai dong, you have to go to this place, also winners of the “Best-Ever Dining Award” of 2016.

Kin’s Kitchen - 5/F, W Square, 314-324 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai, HK This place started by featuring traditional Cantonese dishes by art, culture & food critic Lau Kin Wai. If you are looking for the craziest BBQ pork and smoked chicken you absolutely have to go to this restaurant.

Sushi Gin – Floor 27/f, The Zing Building, 38 Yiu Wah Street,

Causeway Bay, HK At the moment this place is my favourite. Good quality sushi and a cozy environment.

4. BEST SNEAKER STORE Sneaker district HK - Fa Yuen Street, Mong Kok, Kowloon, HK There’s not really one sneaker store in particular. We have the sneaker street here in Hong Kong.

5

.

Hoi on

T his next t h e

B E S T BREAKFAST Cafe - G/F, 17, Connaught Road, Sheung Wan, HK old café t o

of the museum, there are also beautiful exhibitions.

The Bruce lee exhibition is a must see.

2. BEST COFFEE BAR Cupping Room - Shop LG, 287-299 Queen's Road Central, Central, HK If you like to have a nice breakfast with your coffee, go to this place, a peaceful atmosphere to begin your day.

3. BEST CLUB Racks - Winning Centre, 46-48 Wyndham St, Hongkong For entertainment during your night out,

Woo Street, Causeway Bay This is one of my favourite places for dim sum. If you’re into pork, Fung Sing is definitely a place for you.

Order the BBQ pork buns, a plate of BBQ pork and the roast pork and you will melt.

recommendation.

5. BEST BREAKFAST Kah Wah Café - G/F, 47 Bute Street, Prince Edward, HK Pineapple Butter Buns are very famous in Hong Kong. If you like to try the best ones, you absolutely have to go to this café.

Kau Kee 九 記牛腩 21 Gough St, HK T h i s place is called t h e ‘legendary b e e f brisket’.

I order most of the t i m e the beef brisket with

6. BEST LUNCH Lan Fong Yuen 蘭芳園 - 2 Gage Street, Central Hong Kong has an abundance of tea cafés or ‘Cha Chaan Tengs’ offering quick, affordable Hong Kong Style fast food. This place is one of those. Delicious food for lunchtime!

E-fu noodles; you have to try this dish if you go there!

7. MUST DO HKFA - 55 Fat Kwong Street, Homantin, Kowloon,Hong Kong.

We s t e r n M a r k e t is super charming and perfect for vintage lovers.

It serves c l a s s i c Hong Kong b a k e d goods; y o u definitely have to try the spicy pork noodles topped with fried egg, a guilty pleasure.

by NICOLE FUNG 1. BEST MUSEUM Hong Kong Heritage Museum - 1 Man Lam Road, Sha Tin, New Territories, HK Besides the great architecture

go to Racks.

Here you can beer pong, play darts, pool and enjoy cheap delicious drinks.

4.

BEST RESTAURANT Fu Sing Shark Fin Seafood Restaurant - 1/F, 68 Yee

Kowloon Tang Shop R002-003, 3/F, Roof Deck, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui, HK Try the Peking duck, it’s amazing. You can get Peking duck in three ways here, really a

I recommend watching a game of local football. It’s not very expensive and you get a great afternoon experience.

AT

H O N G KO N G

For many of us in the Western

The store is also admired for

hemisphere,

identifying

the

image

of

up-and-coming

contemporary life in the Far

labels from around the world,

East has long held the allure of

we were proud to take our

super modernism and science-

place within their hallowed

fiction. The skylines of cities

halls and are deeply grateful

like Tokyo, Hong Kong and

for the platform they offered

Chengdu seem to have been

us and the care and attention

hijacked directly from films

they showed our brand from

like Akira, Blade Runner and

the very start.

Minority Report.

Since that time we have worked But our sense of the Far East is

with Lane Crawford’s team on

also imbued with the mystery

exclusive concepts including

of exotic ancient traditions

the “live” art-invasion by our

and a couple thousand years

collaborator, street artist Laser

of rich and diverse cultural

3.14, our recent Service Co.

history, from the tea-houses of

Art of Repair event and the

Kyoto in Japan to the terracotta

creation of a Denham Garment

army in the Shaanxi province

Library

of China. For a brand like ours

later in this paper. But the

that

takes

inspiration

installation

featured

from

essence of our relationship

both the passage of time and

with Lane Crawford has always

the acquisition of experience

been anchored in a simple love

(from Virgin to Vintage) as

of blue jeans and it continues

well as the compulsion to

to be a pleasure to have them

both

with us on our journey from

“Worship

Tradition”

and “Destroy Convention” in

Virgin to Vintage.

our designs, it should be no surprise that our regular visits

www.lanecrawford.com

to the the Far East help fuel our creative passions.

We first appeared as a set of

special

pop-up

shops

within

Lane

2013.

Founded

Crawford in

1850,

in

Lane

Crawford

has

long

established itself as a premier shopping destination with an international

reputation

for

creativity, quality and taste.

' I H E A R T H E Y WA S H T H E I R JEANS IN SAKE"

Newspaper Issue #5 introduces the Active Fit Evolution. This new concept has involved super-tuning Denham most popular fits and completely reimagining

SUPER TIGHT FIT

their construction to produce exciting new jeans and chinos that are designed to in 3D, contoured to compliment the body, fabricated for movement and finished for comfort in Active Recovery fabrics.

SKINNY FIT

ACTIVE FIT EVOLUTION

SLIM FIT

DROP CARROT FIT

practical innovations include:

As a special edition within Denham’s "Lighter Than Air" collection, the brand is unveiling its latest 5-pocket design milestone, the 3rd evolution of Denham's 5-pocket program.

The brand originally launched in 2008 with a boldly innovative range of denim styles featuring tailoring inspired darted and precurved pattern cutting, anatomical 7-point pocket profiles and drop-yoke waist lines. In 2013 Denham took on the classics, turning conventional jean design inside-out with the launch of Category 5.

Now, Denham announces the introduction of the Active Fit Evolution. The new Active Fit Evolution series includes the Bolt Helix, Razor Helix and Tokyo Apex for men as well as the Spray Helix for women. The program’s

• ENVELOPED LEG FORM Completely new 3D pattern drafting allowing for fully three dimensional leg shaping.

• VARIABLE WIDTH WAISTBAND Designed for comfort and movement with more coverage in the back then the front.

• FUNCTIONAL FOB POCKET Enlarged for real time functionality and adjusted to compliment the overall optics of the jean.

• LOW PROFILE FLY A lower mass interpretation of Denham’s unique 1-piece fly using custom selvedge facings to reduce bulk.

• EXTENDED POCKET OPENING Dropped rivet placement for easy front pocket access.

• ELLIPTICAL CUFF Designed to break naturally over the forefoot and reduce the risk of heel-tread.

• LIGHTWEIGHT HIGH TENSILE POCKETING Less bulk, durable and moves with you.

• DISCRETE POCKET SET (on the Tokyo) Added front pocket set secured with minimalist zippers.

SUPER TIGHT FIT

LIGHTWEIGHT HIGH TENSILE POCKETING Less bulk, durable and moves with you.

ENVELOPED LEG FORM Completely new 3 pattern drafting allowing for fully three dimensional leg shaping.

LOW PROFILE FLY A lower mass interpretation of Denham’s unique 1-piece fly using custom selvedge facings to reduce bulk.

Enlarged for realtime functionality and adjusted to compliment the overall optics of the jean.

to break naturally over the forefoot and reduce the risk of heel-tread.

VARIABL E

movemen

WIDTH W AISTBAN

t with mor

e coverag

D Designed for comfo e in the ba rt and ck then th e front.

EXTENDED POCKET OPENING Dropped rivet placement for easy front pocket access.

FUNCTIONAL FOB POCKET

ELLIPTICAL CUFF Designed

SKINNY FIT

SUPER TIGHT FIT

SLIM FIT

AMSTERDAM active vintage canadian denim

RAZOR | GRSS1951 Golden rivet selvedge stretch #1951

LIGHTER THAN AIR

BROOKLYN active vintage canadian denim BOEING T-SHIRT indigo

IN-STORE NOW: DENHAM PRE-FALL (16) NEW ARRIVALS

MONROE SHORT indigo dyestuff linen

The new collection for May

This highly wearable summer

delivery is inspired by the

pallet

simple idea; 'Lighter Than Air'.

directional shots of washed

The collection seeks to embody

mulberry and light leaf green.

is

accented

with

the idea both in practical ways as well as capturing the spirit

Subtle twists on construction

of the statement. Direct design

interpret

influences include the angular

curvilinear

and

flattering

curvilinear

seam

lines

the forms

theme’s into

anatomical

new seam

found in parachutes, glider

placements in denim, tees,

wings and parasails.

shirting

and

cut-and-sew

designs like the Windshirt, Denham’s unending research

Carver Microloop and Tunic

and exploration of all things

Sweat for men.

indigo

brings

forward

the

fresh tints of the morning sky

The float and drape of the

with washed down treatments

theme’s parachute inspiration

featuring in both the denim

can be felt in styles for women

range as well as key tops from

like the Boeing and Airfield

the collections for men and

Tees, the Venture Voile Shirt

women.

and the Saints Jersey Jacket.

Alongside the paler shades of blue, the ‘Lighter than Air’ collection also features fresh grey shades within 5-pocket complimented by a new series of soft garment-dyed vintageinspired monochromes in tees and sweats.

SIGNATURE CREW Indigo double stripe 3 year

BROOKLYN active vintage canadian denim

REPAIR AVIATOR pale indigo

ICON V RELAXED T-SHIRT bone white

MONROE golden rivet selvedge stretch #1951

MONROE active super natural fade light

KITT SWEATER bone white Available in SHARP Stretch zen Smoke

WOMEN

N E W A R R I VA L S

REPAIR AVIATOR Cinder black SHARP Active pirate black

ICON SWEAT BONE WHITE FLARE SKIRT CHAMBRAY

T YPE D Indigo waffle shirting indigo

WIND SHIRT Peachable tech cotton dark gunmetal

RAZOR Pocket signature Selvedge Repair

BOLT | acm Active cool max

MEN

BOLT | ACM active cool max

N E W A R R I VA L S

GUSSET SWEAT Signature sweat grey marl

TEAR & REPAIR DENHAM SERVICE CO. AT LANE CRAWFORD

Our Service Co. concept has

amazing local teams at Lane

been an essential element

Crawford’s three Hong Kong

of our brand since we first

locations to celebrate the art of

launched in 2008.

one-of-a-kind “tear and repair” wear

The Service Co. is a fully operational

repair

patterns

for

special

customers.

and

maintenance unit installed and

The team customized over 80

staffed to provide support for

pieces from Denham’s new

consumers who are wearing

Spring collection of artisan

their jeans from their fresh

washes from Italy and Japan.

new “virgin” state to a totally

Techniques

unique, individually broken-in,

included

naturally softened “vintage”

machine repair using museum-

condition.

quality antique boro fabrics

and

materials

handwork

and

from Japan, vintage deadstock We have Service Co. units in our

sewing thread from the UK

flagship shops and denim bars

and custom leather waistband

in

labels in indigo and burnished

Amsterdam,

Dusseldorf,

Sydney, Tokyo and elsewhere.

gold from Italy.

We also take the show-on-theroad with our Service Co. tours.

Special

Since the ways jeans break-in

jeans further personalized with

customers

is a singular obsession for us,

one-off vintage embroidered

we are constantly looking for

patches and monograms in

new approaches to bring this

Denham's

process to life.

finish.

A small crew from the Denham

All work was done live within

studio in Amsterdam including

Lane Crawford’s elite denim

Brand Director, Liam Maher

presentations in-store.

signature

and Service Co. Repair-Artist Clinton

James

joined

the

AT

received

www.lanecrawford.com

copper

Photos: courtesy of Lane Crawford

AT LANE CRAWFORD, CHENGDU

For

Lane

Chengdu the

Crawford’s flagship

store’s

new

location,

creative

installation to bring the entire

of blue jeans as well as one-

over the years and spun it all

story to life.

of-kind prototypes and special

together to produce a denim

editions from his own personal

display worth of the Saatchi

history as a denim designer.

gallery.

team

reached out to us to help

Jason was more than happy

create an exhibit that would

to spread the gospel on real

capture the fundamental spirit

denim and the cool stuff that

Known

of denim for new customers in

happens on the journey from

of

the region.

Virgin to Vintage.

for visual presentation and

They asked to borrow some

Besides

rare and significant vintage

official D.G.L. archives, he

Lane

specimens from our in-house

also went through his private

these specimens, combined

Denham

collection

with

for

the

sustaining

highest

one

standards

exhibition installation in the

Garment

Library

to create a museum-grade

digging

of

into

our

inspirational

vintage from the deep history

world of premium retail, the Crawford artwork,

crew

took

photography

and graphics we’ve produced

AT

Los Angeles and the Ernest Sewn Gallery in MPD NYC and part of the ethos they represented was consistent with how Jason imagined developing the Denham collection and concept. But I had also served as global creative director at Timberland in the 90’s, Burton Snowboards in the 00’s and I had consulted for Visvim during its early seasons – each of these experiences helped forge my attitudes toward product and branding and helped prepare me for the journey Jason wanted to take with Denham.

What is your favourite classic jeans model ?

My new favourite is our SHANK fit 5-pocket. It’s the jean I wore all through the 3-day live repair event in Hong Kong. For me it’s the right balance between a modern classic slim and a very subtly dropped-tapered attitude.

“Worship Tradition” and “Destroy Convention” is the idea the brand started with, how to apply this idea on denim design?

Well, I may have put the words to the idea, but the idea itself was deeply held by Jason Denham as well as others on the original creative team like Art Director Ali Kirby. For us we feel very honoured (and a bit intimated) by the sheer weight of denim and utility design tradition. We feel a responsibility to live-up to the work of the generations of designers, developers and “jeanmakers” who went before us. We feel so strongly about this that you could almost say we “worship” tradition. At the same time we think many of the best of the folks that went before us made the most important contributions by being innovative, inventive, unconventional and even courageous in a way.

People like J.W. Davis, the Nevada tailor who first used metal rivets to reinforce blue jeans.

So, we want to remain highly aware of the need to break tradition now and then (even when you respect tradition like we do). When tradition produces conventions and people begin to forget how or why these conventions come into being, it can help to challenge them. -Or even “destroy” certain conventions that might hold back creative progress.

Denim has been created for over 100 years, how do you see it in the future?

You know what’s super cool to imagine? There are jeans being made today (we hope they include the ones we make at Denham) that will still exist 100 years from now. Those jeans will have a century’s worth of life, experience and time mapped across their surface. They’ll be gorgeous and significant and unique as a result. And even if insanely futuristic jeans made new 100 years from now are sonically welded without yarn or seams, as bulletproof as kevlar while being as soft as cashmere, as light as helium but as dynamic as sprung-steel… if they're total SciFi, as long as they feature real indigo dye on a 3x1 weaving pattern, they too will be ready to be enriched with time, wear, age and experience. So no matter where jean design goes, it will always take you on a completely personal journey from Virgin to Vintage.

Do you think denim will be replaced by other material in the future?

In some ways it already is. Our new Golden Rivet Selvedge from Candiani is a completely new fabric compared to the rigid variations we might have used 6 years ago. Dynamic recovery, compact handle, dry handfeel with long-fibre comfort… All these things keep denim material moving forward.

Some of the technical inspiration comes from the world of sport/athletic of course and the denim

industry has been the happy recipient of lots of new exciting technology in stretch and lightweight performance. But whatever evolutions are to come, the indigo needs to be there and it needs to slow-dip on and break and wash away in that unique way that ensures denim’s legendary high and low tones, depth, character and balance. But of course it will, otherwise it won’t be denim.

What does denim mean to you?

Almost like magnetic cassette audio tape, Denim fabric is uniquely capable of recording your individual experiences. It’s as if the places you go, the people you meet and the experiences you share all embed themselves over the surface of your jeans. Besides representing the deep-toned beauty of indigo colour, this ability to capture time itself in their wear-patterns makes a person’s jeans one of the most individual expressions of personality and character in their wardrobe.

How and when did you start working at DENHAM? I started working at Denham nearly from the beginning. I was brought-in around the time Jason and the original core team were finalising their first capsule collection for Spring 2009. Some of my independent work during that time had caught their attention via projects I had developed which explored the imagined past and future of utility menswear design. Those projects had been presented in exhibition platforms associated with Isetan in Tokyo, New York Fashion Week, 181 Martel

Since DENHAM open store in Daikanyama, Japan , how do you see denim culture in Japan? Anything you appreciate and can learn from the Japanese?

You can imagine that if we have the ambition to “worship tradition”, of course we’d be very inspired by the dizzyingly high standards of the Japanese design-ethic and dedication to craftsmanship. Whether it’s the much talked about “Otaku” attention to detail and reproducing authentic items in the absolutely correct way, or the more overall focus on finish, quality and most importantly BALANCE that you see all across Japanese creative fields and Japanese culture in general…. These values represent a lesson for us and a reminder to stay focused on quality and balance.

What will be the denim trends for the coming season ?

That’s always a hard one. We’re super excited that the more innovative denim weaves, yarnblends and fibre compositions are allowing both increased performance (Destroy Convention) and the creation of rich authentic wear-patterns and washes (Worship Tradition). This in turn allows a wider range of effects. We hope our own range reflects this progression and excitement and we certainly saw it in the new denim at Lane Crawford during our Denham Service Co./Virgin to Vintage "art-of-repair" event. -Subtle bandwidths of deep to faded blues, a range of wear effects and the more individualised world of tear-and-repair and unique vintage replica processing… -all the carefully developed wash recipes the best jeanmakers care so deeply about. h k . hy p e b e a s t . co m / 2 01 6 / 2 / i n te r v i ew - d e n h a m liam-maher www.hypebeast.com

Photos: Melody Lieftink

DENHAM EXCLUSIVE SHOPPING NIGHTS TOGETHER WITH:

DENHAM STORE DÜSSELDORF

WOMENS DENIM BAR

Heinrich-Heine-Allee 38

Runstraat 15-17

Düsseldorf

Amsterdam

Photo: Melody Lieftink

DENIM DENHAM LAUNCHES ACTIVE DENIM

As the name implies, Denham’s Active

Technology and fabrication inspired by

Denim reflects the essential philosophy

sport has been harnessed to create new

as the practice of Yoga itself – namely

denim and collection ideas that perform

the pursuit of the perfect balance of core

in real-time; sliding into a seat on the

strength and extreme flexibility.

plane, running to a brainstorm session,

Featuring an innovative active-recovery

moving effortlessly from the studio or

denim fabric crafted in modern ‘real jean’

office to the café or club.

silhouettes, Active Denim combines the best of both worlds. What may have

Denham

seemed impossible just a few seasons

Netherlands to organize the exclusive

ago is now within reach.

Active Denim launch Party and shopping

The latest premium denim technologies

night in the Women’s Denim Bar in

allow blue jeans to combine the same

Amsterdam. Dusseldorf joined forces

magic blend of strength and flexibility

with Grazia to launch this innovative

that distinguishes the highest natural

concept. Have a look at the activity that

aspirations of today’s modern active

took place those nights!

lifestyle.

partnered

up

with

ELLE

FALL WINTER (16) PREVIEW 'THE SKY'S THE LIMIT' THE LEGEND OF THE INDIGO SQUADRON

In 1950 an entire Royal Air Force Squadron vanished in an indigo horizon while on training maneuvers. Years later the planes were discovered, embedded in the landscape in a remote wintry area along the Road of Bones. All evidence of the plane’s original occupants – the pilots, navigators and crew - had vanished. A local shaman had converted their vessels to objects of spiritual reflection for nearby tribes – decorated and embellished to glorify and ennoble what became the Legend of the Lost Squadron.

The F16 Collection began with a pilgrimage to the last ever occurrence of Europe’s largest military vintage event; The legendary War & Peace Revival Show.

The design team explored a dazzling array of vintage aircraft as well as air force related uniforms and materials.

Inspiration came from the spirit of the story; The Legend of the Lost Squadron – but also from surprisingly modern design concepts and structural ideas hidden in and amongst this research.

New ideas emerged for the updating of classic garments like the UK Jump Parka, B9 Jacket and A2 Bomber as well as inspirations for large-rapport camo prints, parachute-inspired cut & sew constructions, military hardware specifications and morale expressions like “The Sky’s The Limit”.

The atmosphere of the event was perfect for breathing new life into denim with its emphasis on air-mechanics, engine-work and the ubiquitous dungarees of military machinists. Fall jean washes include painted technique reminiscent of vehicle refurbishment.

The spirit of our Campaign Chino group also represented a strong current within the theme with its celebration of legion-green shades, camo and khaki.

The design team invited longtime friends and collaborators Sam Lambert and Shaka Maidoh of Art Comes First to add their twist to Denham Essential styles as the latest participants in our House Guest Artist tradition of special edition products. The A.C.F./ HGA styles deepen the story with the slogan “AIM HIGH”.

The Denham design team dug into their F16 collection theme and discovered the diverse and surprising artistic world of military moralepatches. Regarded as “extra” elements of military uniforms, including pilot jackets, morale-patches are often hand-painted and represent a spirit of camaraderie outside the conventions of official government insignias.

Sometimes sinister, sometime playful but always fascinating, Denham has created their own interpretations in a select series of pilot-jacket style patches, enamel pins and tee shirt graphics.

All photos: Marc Haers

DROP Winter flannel melange

O.S.S. CROMBIE COAT Flannelised Italian Denim BOLT Active super natural black fade

FLIGHT SHIRT wool flannel melange

SIGNATURE CREW Indigo bubble -3year

TUBULAR CREW L/S Fresh Tubular jersey

RAZOR Golden rivet selvedge stretch #19862

TUBULAR CREW dark gun metal

MINIMUS PUFFER PARKA SOFT PEACHED DWR cinder black

EDGE SHIRT indigo square waffle

SKY TUXEDO JACKET Velour Corduroy washed black RIVET T Burn Out Rivet Jersey cinder black

AVIATOR BIKER JACKET Milled Cow Leather indigo

NEEDLE HIGH SKINNY Yoga Indigo Dark

SOAR QUILT JACKET Silk Touch Nylon rifle green

BROOKLYN SLIM JACKET Active Indigo Dyestuff #151

SPRAY SUPER TIGHT Yoga Deep Indigo Silk Stretch

FLEET CROMBIE COAT Indigo Cotton indigo

PARACHUTE CAMO TOP Camo Voile indigo

Anna Nooshin’s Signature “Needle” in Forever Black Yara Michels’ Signature “Monroe” in Real Blue

“It was really cool to step inside Denham’s creative studio and work with their team to accent and adjust our two favorite jean styles to suit our exact tastes”

“We’re very proud at the idea that our individual twists on Denham’s classic Needles and Monroe will be presented alongside the rest of the collection in their beautiful Amsterdam stores”

IN-STORE NOW

DENHAM'S SIGNATURE JEANS SPECIAL EDITIONS ST YLED BY ANNA NOOSHIN & YARA MICHELS

Denham has a long tradition of collaborating

since it was laid-back style influencers like

with both high-profile international creatives

Yara who helped inspired the Monroe, she of

and as well as up-and-coming wunderkinds

course chose this updated boyfriend fit in a

from the vibrant local scene. Denham has

soft “real blue” vintage-inspired natural wash.

been ‘working together in secret’, this time

They each then set to work adding discrete

with Amsterdam’s Anna Nooshin and Yara

touches to each model to make them

Michels. Anna & Yara have developed a high

absolutely their own. Calibrated wash and

profile as influential fashion and lifestyle

wear effects, carefully cropped hem lengths,

bloggers inspiring a legion of enthusiastic

a blend of copper and silver hardware and

followers from across Europe and around the

personalised embroidered signatures at the

world.

waistband distinguish their limited edition Anna jean - NEEDLE fit and Yara jean -

WHEN YOU CAN CHOOSE JUST ONE

MONROE fit, now being released in a limited

Denham invited Anna & Yara to use their

series of 100 pieces each as special extension

individual styling approaches to help answer

of Denham’s S16 5-pocket range.

that timeless question; If you were heading out for a spontaneous adventure but only had

A JEANS-AND-A-TEE KIND OF GIRL

room for one jean in your bag, which would

The special collaboration is accented with the

you choose on your own journey and how

creation of The Ultimate White Tee. Based on

would you tweak it to make it your own?

Denham’s best basics, the girls have tweaked the fit of a classic white boyfriend tee and

The girls each expressed their individual

customised the simple attitude of an iconic

sense of style and asserted their preference

white tee shirt. Just the thing to put with your

for timeless versatility and mentioned their

favourite jean.

all-time favourite. Anna started with Denham’s high-skinny Needle in Forever Black, part of the label’s “If It’s Not Indigo, It’s Black” concept in active recovery stretch, a rock-androll basic she would never go without. And

ARRIVING THIS SUMMER: DENHAM COLLUSION WITH FAN OPTICS

This summer we’ve been “working together in secret” with respected eyewear label: Fan Optics. Founded in London in 2012 with the vision to offer progressive eyewear design with an eye for creative detailing and sophisticated style, the label's collections are considered down to the finest details and handmade using the highest quality materials.

INTERVIEW WITH GUILLAUME FURMINGER Founder / Director FAN OPTICS Please tell us a little more about Fan Optics. When and how did it began?

Fan Optics started in 2012 as contemporary British eyewear label. The goal to producing new aesthetics with classic twists. It was started with the intention to break the norms of the eyewear industry and to support the British eyewear manufacturing industry with is still on the decline.

How important is creative collaboration to your process?

Collaboration is the foundation of our brand. Be it collaboration with experts in the manufacturing side of the business or creative partners in the fashion industry.

H A N D M A D E I N I TA LY

Where do you get your inspiration?

Our inspiration for our frames come from the environment we all live in. The Cities, Buildings, Product that surround us and the cultural trends. We work closely with a number of catwalk fashion labels referencing the 40’s through to the 90’s. Our use of non conventional materials, finishes and colour-ways helps us differentiate from other brands in the market.

What are the most regularly used tools in your tool-kit?

The pencil is our most regular tool used. We sketch everything by hand, mark up drawings, comment on manufacturing plans, sketch on prototypes and write personal hand messages to our customers. The pencil is king!

If you could invite an artist into your house, who would it be?

Artist….This is tough…. There would be so many. I wish I could have met Frank Lloyd Wright – Architectural genius Tell us more about the frames you’ve been working on for DENHAM? With the Denham collection we where really interested in reflecting Denham’s expertise in Denim so we will be introducing 3 special colour-ways in a acetate material from Italy. This material is made from a combination of Cotton (Denim),wood pulp and bio resins to create a quality finish and standout product.

It’s the attention to the small details and finishes that make a pair of sunglasses really special.

What have you been working on recently?

Recently we have been working on a number of special Catwalk frames for London Fashion week which as been very fun. We are in our 4th season with our fashion partners and this is one of our most rewarding design partnerships as it allows us to really experiment with shapes, colours and forms that would not normally feature in our main collection. Its a time to play and create striking looks that compliment the catwalk clothing.

The thing you’re most proud of.. ?

Denham x Fan Optics is a proud moment for us as we get to bring a quality frame to the Netherlands and Japan for the first time. We are super excited for when it hits the shops this summer!

made from pressed cotton fibres & bio resin

100% hand made in Italy

ART COMES FIRST ARRIVING THIS FALL: HOUSE GUEST ARTIST #12

Denham invited the hugely

the Rhys Oxford where they

influential designers, stylists

employed

and all-round creatives; Sam

cotton along the Rhys' iconic

Lambert and Shaka Maidoh

shoulder yoke and reworked

of Art Comes First to lead

the

the

introduce bold black accents.

brand's

collaboration

most

recent

project

within

the House Guest Artist series.

formal

button-down

marcela

collar

to

The pair took apart classics like the Bolt jean, adding discrete

The A.C.F.'s own collection,

blind-zipps at the cuffs to

Avec ces Freres explored the

sharpen the silhouette to a

power and symbolism of black

more tailoring standard. But

this season so it was natural

the

to reflect this concept in the

roll vibe also remains intact on

Denham project as well, since

styles like the Gusset Sweat,

at Denham; "If It's Not Indigo,

Tubular Tee and Chore Jacket

It's Black".

and the 5-pocket extension

monochrome

rock-and-

includes modifications of the The

Denham

design

team

Bolt and Crop in black.

asked Sam and Shaka to roll up their sleeves and develop their own unique tweaks on Denham signature styes in both 5-pocket and the tops collection.

The

pair's

experience

as

seasoned tailors trained on Savile Row is apparent in their translation of styles like

www.artcomesfirst.com

Photos: David Pattinson GUSSET SWEAT HGA / ACF Edition

RHYS OXFORD SHIRT HGA / ACF Edition

ACF CUSTOM SHANK & BOLT FITS HGA / ACF Edition

CHORE JACKET HGA / ACF Edition

TUBULAR L/S TEE HGA / ACF Edition

#WORK ON CANVAS A SERIES OF DOUBLE-PORTRAITS OF AMSTERDAM ARTISANS Photographed by M A R C H A E R S Denham Service Co. shots by C A T H A R I N A V E D E R

Supported

by

Denham

Grolsch,

progress of their projects and

partnered

with

the very fabric of the clothes

portrait

they wear by revisiting them

photographer Marc Haers to

6 months later, allowing us to

create

discover how their creativity,

emerging

Dutch

WORKONCANVAS,

capturing

passage-of-

craft and experiences have

time on the characters, in the

the

literally been mapped across

faces and across the jeans of

their denim.

skilled craftspeople working in

Not only did this process

Amsterdam, the birthplace of

offer a unique portrait of the

both Grolsch and Denham.

artists, but also a portrait of Amsterdam itself - where it’s

The history, use and evolution

been, where it is today and

of

where it is going.

denim

represents

a

compelling story connected directly to work, industry and

Anticipation has been building

craft – themes that define

steadily

communities

since the project began and

and

shape

over

the

6-month

the teams at Denham and

cultures across the globe. with

Grolsch are excited to begin

our mutual commitment to

revealing personal interviews,

explore

creative

profile-videos and behind-the-

endeavours in the cities we

scenes photography all which

live in, resulted in Grolsch

provide a fresh perspective

asking us to participate in their

on unconventional creativity

innovative

and the soul-enriching journey

This

story,

combined

innovative

art-sponsorship

platform ‘Grolsch CANVAS’.

from Virgin to Vintage. Special

Together

hand-picked

new material will be released

seven artists who combine the

each week for 7 weeks leading

skill and heritage of traditional

up to the virtual launch of

crafts with an unconventional

the

and forward-thinking approach

portrait series on the Grolsch

to their work and fitted them

CANVAS

with a virgin Denham wardrobe.

This will be followed by a

we

full

WORKONCANVAS website

in

May.

dedicated physical exhibition We

then

chronicled

the

evolution of the individuals, the

in Amsterdam in September.

TOM VAN NOESEL AND HARRY MORSSINK – TABLE MAKERS Van Ouds custom-built tables are as unique as they are beautiful, combining the classic and authentic feel of wood with an innovative coating of epoxy resin.

The result is a beautiful piece of furniture made with skill, care and patience.

THIJS KRUITHOF – DECORATIVE PAINTER Decorative painter Thijs Kruithof uses his background in graphic design to create bold and stunning patterns on the walls of homes and buildings across his city, transforming them into artworks that are able to live alongside the people that surround them.

HIDDE SUVA AL – WASTELAND GARDENER Hidde Suvaal and his team of city farmers transformed a disused concrete garden in an old laboratory into a beautiful green space in the heart of Amsterdam. He now helps his community by teaching them about gardening and giving them a space to grow their own plants and vegetables.

JOOST NAWJIN – BOTTLE DESIGNER Grolsch is known not only for its unique taste but also for the beautiful bottles it is presented in. Bottle designer Joost Nawjin helps make these bottles look as amazing as they do, blending his knowledge of Grolsch’s heritage with attention to details and an eye for perfection.

JULIA LEUNGE – METAL RESTORER A metal restorer with a background in archaeology, Julia Leunge uses her skills to restore and conserve metal antiquities and artifacts.

JORAM BARBIERS – METALWORKER Joram Barbiers cares about the history of his materials – where they’ve been, as well as where they’re going to be. The metalworker creates furniture using materials that are rich in history, including parts from old ships and original pickle barrels.

WOUTER VOS – FURNITURE DESIGNER Wouter Vos is an expert at bringing ideas to life. Not only does he lovingly create his own unique furniture designs using materials with their own unique stories, but he also works with his clients to take their ideas and make them into beautiful physical objects.

w ww.canvas.grolsch.com

MARINE & WALK DENHAM YOKOHAMA STORE

Occupying the coveted corner

2-storey layout, as well as a

location at the main entrance to

new children’s area featuring

Yokohama’s new Marine & Walk

perfectly miniaturized versions

bayside shopping center along

of Denham’s most iconic jeans

the

and T-shirts. Custom made

picturesque

Yokohama

bay, the new DENHAM store

especially for kids.

sits alongside elite specialist

The open and airy space is

brands from Japan such as

finished with fresh white walls

Masterpiece, premium West

and

Coast concept store Fred Segal

The

from Los Angeles, Kit and Ace

atmosphere is animated with

from Vancouver and Margaret

plenty of interior greenery

Howell from the UK.

throughout

natural

with Designed

by

in-house

team,

oak

flooring.

inside-meets-outside

and

appointed

DENHAM’s

usual

DENHAM’s

eclectic mix of modern and

the

store

vintage furniture and fixtures,

represents a fresh take on

including pieces from Eames

DENHAM’s

as well as antique warehouse

signature

retail

concept with a look-and-feel

lighting from Japan.

subtly adapted to compliment Marine

&

Walk’s

laid-back

The breezy Yokohama feel is

Yokohama bay attitude.

reinforced by a playful selection

The frontage is highlighted by

of added merchandise and

a permanent handwash bath,

special productions including

part of DENHAM’s international

DENHAM Sake; jewelry from

Service Co. concept where

Ocean

consumers are encouraged to

Brothers

have their jeans washed and

edition

maintained by shop staff.

double-labeled

Republic;

Muller

eyewear; souvenir with

&

limited jackets Full

Count Japan and a range of On full

offer

inside

DENHAM

are

the

collections

for both men and women, merchandised

within

a

leather items from Superior Labour in Okayama.

Photos: courtesy of Coef

DENHAM AT COEF ZIEKERSTRAAT 165-167, NIJMEGEN

"We met Coef’s founder, Coen

Again

we

were

3 years ago. Back then he was

when Coen asked if we’d like

scouting brands to match his

Denham to play a bigger part.

emerging vision for an elite

Supported by knowledgable

new men's store concept in

and

Nijmegen.

ambassadors, Koen, Sander

enthusiastic

honoured

Denham

and Roy the team has created After learning more about him

a unique spin on the signature

and his passion for quality and

Denham brand experience.

progressive design, we were honoured when he elected

Coef succeeds in matching our

to place Denham alongside

values with their own special

labels

Company,

work ethic and family spirit and

Filippa K, Aspesi, Filling Pieces

the store itself has become

and The Last Conspiracy.

one of our favourites with an

like

C.P.

The concept was an immediate

utterly unique atmosphere that

success

mixes warmth with freshness

and

plans

were

made to extend and expand

and modernity with tradition."

the approach, renovating an adjacent shop to create a much larger overall space.

www.coef.nl

All photos: Myscha

CRISP SHEETS STARTING-UP WITH A CLEAN SHEET

We’re proud to claim Lara Jans as a graduate of Denham the Jeanmaker.

Jans was the brand's visual merchandiser and once

filled her days creating special displays, window installations and exhibitions in our stores.

Her work for us back then was distinguished by a love of our brand, a passion for richly and naturally balanced high and low color tones common to most jean-lovers, and a dedication to trial-and-error in her creative process. While we when she left us, we were very glad when we saw that her new endeavours reflected the same completely authentic aspects of her personality.

These days we’re proud we can claim her as “one of ours..” and we’re equally proud to include her new Crisp Sheets concept online and in select Denham stores.

INTERVIEW WITH LARA JANS Founder CRISP SHEETS As a Denham veteran, we would love you to tell a little more about how you first got acquainted with Denham?

Somewhere in 2009 I was walking on the canals with a friend and I was just discussing that I was looking for a part time job next to my studies.

Literally 1 minute after mentioning that to her I passed the store window of Denham and my -soon- to- be colleague Diego was putting up a ‘wanted staff’ on the window. Such a coincidence! I had already heard about Denham, but had not visited the store yet. So I walked in the store and made a joke; you can take down the add and hire me! There was an instant click and we had a coffee. The store manager who actually had the day off was stopping by for a chat and coffee with his team, yet again a coincidence. He made some time for me and 30 minutes later I was hired!

It happened all very natural and it felt a little bit like it was meant to be.

Please tell us about your company Crisp Sheets. When and how did it began?

It started 2 years ago as a personal quest to find the perfect bed sheets.

I had just moved into my new apartment and I spent a lot of time decorating it and finding special items for my interior. The only thing I just couldn’t seem to find were bed sheets that matched my taste. I found

them too simple, not the right quality or just completely unaffordable. I started visualizing how my perfect sheets would look and feel. It didn’t take long before I started working on my own designs and also determining what kind of technique could give that crisp touch to cotton.

After finding the right supplier, Crisp Sheets was established. At that time I was still very much enjoying working at Denham as Visual Merchandise Coordinator and was not planning to really start a business but saw it as a side project. However, after launching the first design, CS was picked up by the right press and people and things moved fast. 6 months later I decided to fully commit to Crisp Sheets and with pain in my heart I quit my job and left the Denham family.

Where do you get your inspiration?

I can get inspired by the most random things; conversations, environments or people. Talking about people..

While I was working at Denham I had the opportunity to work closely with Liam Maher and learn from his creative mind and uncommon vision on things. He took me under his wings when I was a rookie and taught me that the truth is always in the details.

This motto still helps me nowadays; whenever I finish a new design I take a step back, look at it critically and ask myself: ‘does everything correspond together?’ Most of the times it’s not quite there yet so I move around some stuff and take another look.. it

always works. This might sound like an obvious thing, but for me it really wasn’t when I first started creating.

I can be a dreamer, but when I am very enthusiastic about something that inspires me I can’t wait to visualize new ideas and get started. It can sometimes make me a bit restless and impatient; working in the middle of the night is not uncommon.

Strangely enough I am most creative at night; Crisp Sheets also started at night whilst having a jet lag and not being able to sleep.

What are the most regularly used tools in your tool-kit?

My designs all start with watercolor based sketches, so my toolkit exists of many various brushes, aquarelle paint, sponges, calligraphy pencils and so on.

Can you tell us a bit more about the indigo prints in your line?

I developed a big love for indigo while working at Denham. I worked with this colour for over 5 years and got to know and appreciate Indigo more and more. There are so many different tones and I find them all equally pretty. Indigo is such a calming but yet expressive colour, for me it’s the one colour that really stands out. So when I first started to make designs for Crisp Sheets it did not take long for me to put some Indigo on paper.

My first blue design in bedding is called Weekend Lover (bedding).

And in the same collection I made

an indigo postcard range of 4 cards all with dictionary references. I also recently launched a duo tone linen bedding set called Supernova. The blue of this set is a very dark tone of blue; midnight blue.

If you could invite an artist into your house, who would it be?

I think that would be Karl Lagerfeld.

I would love to meet him and find out more about him. I think next to the fact that he is a brilliant designer and visionair (thinking of what he did for Chloe and Chanel) that he also has a big sense of dark, dry humor; something I always appreciate!

What have you been working on recently?

In April I am launching a new collection of bedding; linen, embroidered pillow cases and four new bedding sets. Very exciting!

The thing you’re most proud of .. ?

It took me quite some (unfinished) studies and many different jobs to figure out what I actually really love to do. Me, being an autodidact - actually a college drop out :-), but with hard work and being eager to learn from the right people; I have now managed to establish my own business and I am able to do and make what I really love every day.. That’s the thing I am most proud of that makes me very happy!

# D E N H A M # V I R G I N T O V I N TA G E # T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S # I N D I G O D Y E S T U F F # I TA LY L A U N D R Y # J A PA N A R T I S A N # R I V E T T O D O R O # S C I S S O R F I N G E R S # D E N I M #IFITSNOTINDIGOITSBL ACK # H O U S E G U E S TA R T I S A N # M A D E I N J A PA N # S E R V I C E C O # S T R E T C H # S E LV E D G E #GROLSCH #ACTIVEDENIM #AC TIVERECOVERY #ITSALLABOUTTHEBALANCE # K E E P T H E FA I T H Follow us: Instagram .com/denhamthejeanmaker Facebook.com/denhamthejeanmaker Twitter.com/denhamjeanmaker

Photo Mark Seelen Photo Rin Tanaka

THE JEANMAKER

DENHAM THE JEANMAKER

of high and low fade-tones

Founded

as

in

in

2008,

Amsterdam

DENHAM

established

by

was

Englishman

well

as

layered

three-

dimensional aging processes, Denham’s

‘Virgin-to-Vintage’

and internationally respected

philosophy

celebrates

jeanmaker

Jason

phase

a

Collections

include

Denham. a

of

each

wear-pattern’s

full

journey from ‘virgin’ unwashed

range of styles for men and

dark blue through to authentic

women across both tops and

‘vintage’ replica washes based

bottom categories but the core

on years of real wear.

of the brand is firmly rooted in the premium denim segment.

WORSHIP

TRADITION,

DESTROY CONVENTION THE TRUTH IS IN THE DETAILS

Denham’s seasonal collections

The 5-pocket range expresses

of jackets, knits, shirts and

a refined modernist sensibility

jersey are distinguished by

and features an impressive

their unique use of vintage

array

of

research

and

subtle

signature

details

construction

innovations.

and

their

original

blend of contemporary design refinement

while

always

maintaining a deeply authentic FROM VIRGIN TO VINTAGE Developed with

the

in best

jeans attitude.

collaboration Italian

and

Japanese denim mills, the brand’s real distinction comes from the brand’s dedication to

reproducing

natural

completely

wear-patterns

and

finishing techniques. Focused on producing a careful balance

The Jeanmaker film poster

Jason's grandfathers shop

AN ENGLISHMAN ABROAD PAUL SMITH & JASON DENHAM Anyone who’s read

distinct design and a passion for details. To Jason’s delight,

interviews with Jason might have known that Paul Smith

he recently had the opportunity to revisit the subjects of

has been a long-time inspiration. Jason tells a story about

design and branding with Paul. No longer a student and

how he blagged his way into an unscheduled meeting with

with considerably more experience under his belt, the two

Sir Paul when he was still a young designer seeking sage

Englismen got together in London with Belgian magazine

advice. As Jason tells it, Paul took the meeting despite the

FEELING for a formal interview.

protestations of his secretary who had attempted to thwart Jason’s plans. Ever the gentleman, Paul went on to discuss

See what was said and read the entire article online at

design and brand-guiding with young Denham, treating

www.denhamthejeamaker.com

him with respect and deepening Jason’s resolve to create a brand of his own someday.

Flash forward a couple of decades and we’re proud to have stores all over the world and to have earned a reputation for

Publication: FEELING magazine Editor: Michaël de Moor Photography: Liesbet Peremans www.feeling.be

SUBSCRIBE ONLINE F O R A L L T H E L AT E S T N E W S F R O M T H E J E A N M A K E R w w w. d e n h a m t h e j e a n m a k e r. c o m