“ THE CUTTING ROOM” ” T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ”
6
PRINT | ONLINE “ R E G I S T E R E D I N T H E M E D I A - AW 1 1 ”
DENHAM DESIGN : DENIM INTEGRIT Y
“ THE CUTTING ROOM” We are Denham the Jeanmaker and this is our Pressbook for ‘Autumn Winter .11’ We’re always thrilled to see our young label registering in the media and even the smallest mention makes us smile. We’re prouder still when our friends in the press personally engage in our concept and we see their shared enthusiasm brought to life in stories we might almost have written ourselves [if we had their talent]. In other words; we’re particularly gratified and often humbled when folks seem to really get it. They have our sincere gratitude. In the best of these clippings you’ll hear them say: “ T H E T RU T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” “ W O R S H I P T R A D I T I O N . D E S T R OY C O N V E N T I O N ” “DENHAM DESIGN . DENIM INTEGRIT Y ”
THE BUZZ @ DENHAM HQ & STORES
MR. HANAZAWA
JAPANESE PAINT ARTIST
DUTCH SINGER
CHARLY LUSKE
HOWARD DONALD
SHAWN STUSSY
ENGLISH SINGER TAKE THAT.
JAPANESE SOCCER PLAYER
MR. TAKSAKI
FOUNDER OF THE BRAND STUSSY
PS3
kunst
Ronald Ockhuysen
WOENSDAG 21 SEPTEMBER 2011
Comeback
L
MR. HARAGUCHI
DUTCH ACTRESS
SYLVIA HOEKS
JAPANESE SOCCER PLAYER
DUTCH SINGERS
NICK & SIMON
JAPANESE SOCCER PLAYER
FASHION DESIGNER
HENRY HOLLAND
PETE PHILLY
JAPANESE BASEBALL PLAYERS
ENGLISH DJ
FOTO JOHANNES EISELE/AFP
DUTCH RAPPER
r.ockhuysen@parool.nl Sylvia Hoeks: ‘Acteren is een veilige vorm van risico’s nemen.’
JAMES LAVELLE1
luid een band met allure gebleven – ook toen de hits uitbleven en de concerten minder druk werden bezocht. Daarom stemt hun deelname aan The winner is zo bitter. De trotse muzikanten zitten nu in een competitie met ex-Dolly Dot Anita Heilker en Eric Jacott en Marcel Bogarde van Timeless, een band die per ongeluk een keer een hit heeft gehad. De presentator van The winner is, in 2012 op de buis, wordt Beau van Erven Dorens. Beau stamt uit het jaar 1970. Hij was een puber toen Loïs Lane in topvorm verkeerde, en kent ongetwijfeld het optimisme dat hun muziek losmaakt. Misschien heeft hij zelfs wel geschuifeld op It’s the first time. Ook Beau moet het diep in zijn hart niet willen dat Loïs Lane zichzelf in de uitverkoop gooit en verwordt tot een rekwisiet in een programmaformat. Misschien kan hij ervoor zorgen dat de groep in de eerste ronde eruit vliegt? Zodat deze smet op een mooie carrière weer snel wordt vergeten?
MR TAKASAKI, MR. UGAJIN & MR KOJIMA
Verworden tot een rekwisiet in een programmaformat
MR. WAKUI & MR. NOGGAMI
oïs Lane heeft zich opgegeven voor het tv-programma The winner is. In de talentenshow gaan zangers, zangeressen en groepen de strijd met elkaar aan. De Amsterdamse groep van Suzanne en Monique Klemann heeft zich aangemeld voor de categorie comeback-acts. Voor dit soort programma’s maakt het natuurlijk niet uit wat het woord comeback precies betekent. Het feit dat Loïs Lane nooit weg is geweest, wil voor producent Talpa niet zeggen dat de groep dan niet aan een comeback kan werken. “Deelnemers aan de comebackcategorie moeten bij het grote publiek uit het oog zijn geraakt. En naar verluidt is dat bij de zusjes Klemann het geval,” zei een woordvoerder in De Telegraaf – alsof hij het over een zak aardappelen had. Loïs Lane scoorde in de jaren tachtig en negentig hits als It’s the first time, I wanna be en Amsterdamned. Onschuldige muziek, en tegelijk ongelooflijk comfortabel. Zodra de stemmen van Monique en Suzanne klinken, grijpen serotonine en andere vrolijke stofjes in het hoofd resoluut de macht. Loïs Lane is door dat eigen ge-
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WINTER (12) COLLECTION Story 7: “Highlands / High Altitude”
Tu e s d a y 1 7 t h - F r i d a y 2 0 t h J a n u a r y ‘ 1 2 10am - 6pm by appointment only (please contact your sales agent)
“ T H E T R U T H I S I N T H E D E TA I L S ” w w w . d e n h a m t h e j e a n m a k e r. c o m
SERVICE CO. POP UP | BERLIN FASHION WEEK 01 JANUARY .12
Inspiration: “Denham pole covers displayed in Paul Smith’s private art collection”.
Pinterest is an online pinboard, people who shared and loved DENHAM
Frederique van der Wal
Ruth
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3.23.2012
OLSENS ANONYMOUS FAVORITE: ASHLEY
.............................................................. . .. ..
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.................................................... OLSENS ANONYMOUS
.... .... .... .... .... VIEW MY COMPLETE PROFILE
HELLO...
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1/5 ページ
Olsens Anonymous: OLSENS ANONYMOUS FAVORITE: ASHLEY
12/03/30 12:23
MY OTHER BLOGS:
Get the look... Marc by Marc Jacobs Oversized Aviator Sunglasses House of Harlow 1960 Metal Sunburst Pendant Gorjana Reversible Alphabet Necklace Low Luv x Erin Wasson Cross Pendant Necklace Denham Prime Stripe Long Sleeve Top So Low Long Leggings Rachel Zoe Zoe Tote Ash Horizon Platform Boots BY OLSENS ANONYMOUS @ 3:59 PM LABELS: ASHLEY, BAGS, BALENCIAGA, BOOTS, GET THE LOOK, HAIR, HERMÈS, JEWELRY, LEGGINGS, NECKLACE, OLSENS ANONYMOUS FAVORITE, SHOES, STRIPES, SUNGLASSES いいね！
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AMS
STORE | ST UDIO | HQ Prinsengracht 493-495 1016 HR Amsterdam
GRAZIA
ISSUE | 16 NOVEMBER .11
GRAZIA
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DE BIJENKORF MAGAZINE
ESQUIRE
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RED
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RED
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LINK
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ONLINE | FASHIONMINDED.COM
DE T R A D E FA I R Bread & Butter Berlin
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SÜDDEUTSCHE ZEITUNG MAGAZIN
TENDENCIAS
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INDIE
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ARTSCHOOLVETS
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GENUSSMAENNER
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WEAR
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ALL IN DEMIM
ALL IN DEMIM
Denham:
FROM TOP TO BOTTOM
Sein Traum war es, eine Firma aufzubauen im warmen Herzen seines geliebten Amsterdam. Mit seinem freien Geist, mit dem Fahrrad zur Arbeit entlang der Grachten, gehen Jeans eine perfekte Symbiose ein. Wie definiert sich das Label Denham? Eine japanische Zeitschrift hat 13 Seiten über Denham und unseren typischen „familien-ähnlichen“ Charakter herausgebracht sowie über unsere „Die-Wahrheit-steckt-im-Detail“Einstellung. Unsere Kollektionen verkaufen sich gut in diesem Markt, da unsere Qualitäten und Größen speziell auf diesen abgestellt sind. Die japanische Kultur ähnelt sehr dem Ethos dieser Marke. Verehre die Tradition, zerstöre die Konvention, ist eine unserer Philosophien.
Die Erkundung des fünfstöckigen Gebäudes, in dem der Flagship Store des Denim-Labels Denham untergebracht ist, ähnelt einem Streifzug durch eine moderne Jeansfabrik, in der Ladengeschäft, Kundendienst, Küche, Lager, Showrooms sowie die Design- und Atelierräume zusammenschmelzen. Es herrscht eine Atmosphäre, die pure Leidenschaft und Hingabe zur Schneiderei verströmt. Text & Photos: Alexander Moust
fashion today 01_2012 89
Was waren Ihre ersten Jeans, die Sie getragen haben? Als ich aufwuchs, hießen die Trendmarken Chipy, Chevignon, Liberto etc. Ich trug Levis, die echten Jeans, wie ich lernen sollte. Mit 18 fertigte ich meine erste eigene Jeans und stellte fest, dass dies genau das war, was ich später machen wollte. Meine Mutter ist sehr kreativ mit Textilien und Möbeln. Mein Vater kann in seiner Werkstatt alles Mögliche bauen und reparieren – die Werkzeuge liegen überall herum – und ich bin die Mischung aus beiden. Wir sind im Geschäft der Schneidekunst, weil wir es wirklich lieben und nicht, weil Jeans und Denim für uns Konsumgüter sind. Weltweit arbeiten 50 Leute direkt für Denham. Wir erwirtschaften keine riesigen Gewinne, aber wachsen auf gesunde Weise – alles bleibt übersichtlich. Unsere Kernmärkte sind Japan, die Niederlande, Großbritannien und Deutschland. Am Anfang hatte ich noch eine Firma namens „Clinic“ – eine Bekleidungs-Consulting Firma. Wir starteten mit einigen wenigen Tischen und Stühlen und wuchsen beständig und organisch. Mir wurde klar: Mit der gleichen Anzahl an Leuten und nur durch Aufrechterhalten der Qualität
können wir uns weiterentwickeln. Wir glauben an das Produkt – und investieren etwas mehr Geld, aber erfreuen uns länger an dem Ergebnis. Wegwerfgüter sind nicht mein Ding. So sollte sich das Baumwolle-basierte Bioprodukt, das letztlich getragen wird, wie eine Art zweite Haut für den Träger anfühlen.
Im Erdgeschoss findet das Kundengeschäft statt – Anprobe der Waren, die Waschungen, retuschieren oder reparieren lassen vom Kundendienst. Hier kommen alle Teile des DenhamPuzzles zusammen. Solide und mit Würde schaffen sie ein Image und eine Persönlichkeit, die zu ihnen passt. So, wie in den dokumentarischen Kunstfotografien von August Sander, die beinahe vor einem Jahrhundert aufgenommen wurden und die ein Gefühl von Zeitlosigkeit durchströmt. x
fashion today 01_2012 91
ISSUE | JANUARY .12
FASHION TODAY
ALL IN DEMIM
Beim Betreten des Ateliers auf dem Dachboden ist die Standkonsole mit PC und Schneide- und Zeichnungstool ein Eyecatcher. Der Raum, keine 30 Quadratmeter groß, ist voll mit Kleidungsstücken und einer Kollektion aus gefalteten Anzügen, Mänteln und Jacken. An der Wand hängt ein SchwarzweißFoto von August Sander. Das Bild scheint weitaus mehr zu sein als nur Dekoration. Der Designer Liam Maher erklärt, was dahinter steckt: „Ich bin in den Siebzigern und Achtzigern groß geworden und arbeitete sieben Jahre lang für Timberland. Mein Vater, ein Brite, reiste viel, und wir mussten hin und wieder von den USA nach Europa ziehen. Als Teenager kam ich mit vielen verschiedenen Arbeiten, Sportarten und diverser Armee-Bekleidung aus der ganzen Welt in Kontakt. Ein Onkel von mir war ein professioneller Comiczeichner – auf gewisse Art und Weise bin ich in einem Umfeld aufgewachsen, in dem das Erzählen von Geschichten und auch das Reisen sehr präsent waren. Meine Eltern wuchsen zur Zeit der Depression auf. Und beide, so wie ich auch, sind sehr kritisch eingestellt gegenüber der Opulenz und dem Überfluss. Zu jener Zeit sah zum Beispiel ein Fahrrad oder ein Mantel eben schlicht aus. Das führt uns nun zum Foto von August Sander, „Bricklayer“, oder zu Deutsch: Maurer, aus dem Jahre 1928, ein fantastisches Bild, auf dem man diesen stolzen Arbeiter sieht, der seine simple, ikonische Weste mit so viel Würde und Erhabenheit trägt. Nehmen wir zum Beispiel diese Baseball-Jacke aus den Sechzigern, die ich gerade in Seattle erworben habe, für unser Archiv und meine Inspiration. Wenn du diese Jacke anziehst, fühlt sie sich an, wie sie sich anfühlen SOLLTE. Man kann den Spirit dieser Epoche fühlen. Für mich ist Bekleidung nicht einfach nur schlichtes Business, für mich transportiert sie Kultur und Erinnerungen. Wir umgeben und schmücken unseren Körper mit Kleidungsstücken, die wir uns ausgesucht haben, weshalb Mode eigentlich etwas sehr Persönliches sein sollte.“
Beim Abstieg der Treppen passieren wir einige Stockwerke und treffen auf andere Designer, die für den Webshop und die Kollektionszusammenstellung verantwortlich sind. Alle Bereiche sind mit hängender und liegender Ware gefüllt, in verschiedenen Tönen und Stoffen. An den Wänden hängen die unterschiedlichsten Fotos und Zeichnungen, zur Inspiration, wie mir erklärt wird. Im zweiten Stock treffen wir auf den Gründer des Labels, Jason Denham. Um ihn herum liegen viele Gadgets und Zeitschriften, verteilt im ganzen Raum. Als er meinen Blick bemerkt, der die Umgebung mustert, lacht er und erklärt: „Andere würden vielleicht sagen, es sei Müll, der hier herumliegt. Aber für mich ist das hier meine Inspirationsquelle, meine Palette an Ideen.“
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DOUBLE SOUL blog : NEW JEANS BRAND "DENHAM"入荷
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そして大事なのは、デンハムの製品には、国を超えた要素が入っている点です
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りますし、ジェイソン・デンハム自身がイギリス人という事
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アメリカ的：ワークウェアとしてのオーセンティックなアメリカンジーンズを受け継い
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でいるから。コレクションのデザインを担当するリアムはアメリカ人です。
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イタリア的：洗いをかけたりするフィニッシングは、イタリアでやっているから
最後にデンハムの一番の魅力は「神は細部に宿る」ではありませんが、「真実 は、ディテールにある」という。ディテールと、素材の質へのこだわりは相当だとい う。メンズの商品では強いファブリックを選んだりする。
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2012年01月18日 カテゴリ DENHAM
本日よりブログ限定 DEAD STOCK SALE 開催！
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にさまざまな国籍のスタッフが集まっている
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DENHAMにはイギリス人、アメリカ人、ドイツ人、インドネシア人、フランス人。実
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DENHAM"Grade SLim" ￥59.745-MADE IN JAPAN 2/11 ページ
http://blog.livedoor.jp/doublesoul3782/archives/1541408.html
DOUBLE SOUL blog : NEW JEANS BRAND "DENHAM"入荷
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ウォッチポケット お値段は少々お高いですが、この型は国産モデルになり全て手作業で行ってい る為、ダメージやリペアが特徴的になっております。 一本作成するのに48時間かかります。 デニム生地はカイハラ、オンスは１４ozとなっております。 Grade SLimというモデルはレギュラースリムストレートでテーパードになっており
denham japan
ます。私も展示会で見てきましたがデンハムのデニムはテーパードモデルが多い です。
ブランドのアイコンでもあるハサミ。東京代官山にある本店にははさみがたくさん 飾られております。
国内外よりオールジャンルに セレクトした商品を取り揃えて います。 "ADDRESS 〒802-0006 福岡県北九州市小倉北区魚 町1-1-8KRISSBLD.B1 "PHONE 093-551-6765 "MAIL info@double-soul.com
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デンハム ウエスト フラッグ シップが登場！ 2008年にアムステルダムでジェイソン・デンハムによって生まれたデニムブランド、デンハム。シ ンボルはハサミ、そして不動たるコンセプトは”Worship tradition, and destroy convention”(伝 統を重んじ、習慣を壊す)と強烈な印象のブランドだ。昨年代官山に上陸して以来、瞬く間にバイ ヤーたちを魅了し、その頭角を表している。そんな注目ブランドがついに大阪に上陸！ 店内には レディース・メンズ共にデニムを中心にしつつ、トップス、アウターとフルラインが揃う。休日に 彼女を連れて行けばきっとセンスの良さをアピールできるはず！ 先着順でノベルティプレゼント もあり。
店名：デンハム ナンバパークス店 オープン：2012年3月8日 TEL：06-6536-8958(直通) 住所：〒556-0011 大阪市浪速区難波中2-10-70 なんばパークス4階 デンハム ジャパン TEL：03-3496-1086 住所：東京都目黒区青葉台1-15-1 AK-1 bldg. 3F
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インポートブランド、コーディネート相談、ファッション通販サイト【Fiducia/フィドゥーチア】 / ＤＥＮＨＡＭ
12/02/02 21:44
Fiduciaオススメブランド!
【ＤＥＮＨＡＭ/デンハム】 ●DENHAMとは
2009年春、デザイナー【ジェーソン・デンハム】がDENHAMをスタート テーラーのフィット感を持つ独特なスタイルとハイデザインのプレミアムジーンズを中心にトップスとアクセサリーのコレクションを持つブランド
●ブランドコンセプト
デンハムのデザインはデニムのファブリックにインスパイヤーされておりそれがデザインの信念となっている。 伝統的なジーンズ職人の技術をリスペクトし、新たなデザインを創造している 。
●ジェーソン・デンハムの信念
「実用的なガーメントを作ること。」 「伝統を重んじる。伝統的な品質技術」 「慣習を覆す。進化を邪魔する慣習」
● 店長コメント ●
DENHAMはブランド設立がまだ2年で1年前ぐらいに東京の代官山に1号店をオープンし デニム トップス アウターがDENHAM独特のデザインで、日本人の体形に合わせて作られてるため、とても着やすく、私は大好きでよく買いにいきま す！！ 今後必ず流行るブランドなので、是非行ってみてください！！ちなみにDENHAMの店員さんは、みんなイケメンでお洒落すぎです！！
▲ PAGE TOP Copy right ©2012
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インポートブランド、コーディネート相談、ファッション通販サイト【Fiducia/フィドゥーチア】 / ＤＥＮＨＡＭ
12/02/02 21:44
Fiduciaオススメブランド!
【ＤＥＮＨＡＭ/デンハム】 ●DENHAMとは
2009年春、デザイナー【ジェーソン・デンハム】がDENHAMをスタート テーラーのフィット感を持つ独特なスタイルとハイデザインのプレミアムジーンズを中心にトップスとアクセサリーのコレクションを持つブランド
●ブランドコンセプト
デンハムのデザインはデニムのファブリックにインスパイヤーされておりそれがデザインの信念となっている。 伝統的なジーンズ職人の技術をリスペクトし、新たなデザインを創造している 。
●ジェーソン・デンハムの信念
「実用的なガーメントを作ること。」 「伝統を重んじる。伝統的な品質技術」 「慣習を覆す。進化を邪魔する慣習」
● 店長コメント ●
DENHAMはブランド設立がまだ2年で1年前ぐらいに東京の代官山に1号店をオープンし デニム トップス アウターがDENHAM独特のデザインで、日本人の体形に合わせて作られてるため、とても着やすく、私は大好きでよく買いにいきま す！！ 今後必ず流行るブランドなので、是非行ってみてください！！ちなみにDENHAMの店員さんは、みんなイケメンでお洒落すぎです！！
▲ P AGE TOP Co py right ©2012
http://www.fiducia-es.com/user_data/denham.php
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DENHAM大阪店 OPEN ! sato-syuzo (2012年3月14日 19:08) | コメント(0) | トラックバック(0)
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3月8日 アムステルダムのデニムブランド DENHAM の大阪店が 大阪 なんばパーク ス の４Ｆにオープンしました。 2008年にオランダアムステルダムで生まれた新進気鋭のデニムブランドで、弊社の海外
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市場を担って頂いている香港のJOSEN.LTD様からの依頼で以前よりDENHAMブランドの酒
2012年3月
まだお店には行けてないですが、仕込みの合間を見つけて行ってきます。皆さんもぜひ
日月火水木金土 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11121314151617 18192021222324 25262728293031
を作成しています。今回も大阪店オープンということで、作らせて頂きました（＾＾） 行ってみてください。
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最近のブログ記事 DENHAM大阪店 OPEN ! 第4回 湖濱プロジェクト会議 長浜・まちの駅で酒粕販売 酒粕パン 長浜盆梅展 夜間当番 湖濱プロジェクト会議！
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阪急MEN'S TOKYO ｜ふたりで選ぶ「バ レンタインデーに本
Hankyu MEN'S TOKYO｜はじめての クリスマスは、上質 な逸品ギフト 「Luxury Xmas for men」
世界を舞台に活躍す る男のための阪急
CARON｜阪急 MENʼS TOKYOで先 行発売のメンズフレ
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DS MAGAZINE
IN
THE
1 Blk dnm J.린드버그의 요한 린드버그가 BLK DNM(블랙 데님이라 읽는다)을 처음 론칭하자 패션계 인사이더들은 열렬히 환호했고, 론칭과 함께 선보인 뉴욕의 팝업 스토어는 곧바로 플래그십으로 탈바꿈했다. 이 ‘새로운 시대에 맞춘 새로운 데님 브랜드’는 야심 찬 기획만큼 숨 가쁜 전개를 이어갔는데 론칭 이후 잠깐 쉼표를 찍는 듯하던 것도 잠시. 린드버그는 고향인 스톡홀름에 자신이 좋아하는 것들을 모두 모아 보다 근사한 플래그십 스토어를 오픈했다. 린드버그 고유의 도시적이고 인더스트리얼한 감성을 잘 드러내는 이 매장은 해체주의적인 느낌의 벽과 천장을 배경으로 현대와 바로크 스타일의 고가구와 무심한 조명이 조화를 이루고, 다른 곳에서 쉽게 만날 수 없는 BLK DNM의 데님과 티셔츠, 가죽 등 전 컬렉션을 판매한다. MASTER SAMUELSGATAN 1, STOCKHOLM US.BLKDNM.COM
2 Sandqvist 실용적인 잡화 제품을 선보이는 샌쿠비스트는 전 세계의 수많은 편집매장에 골고루 뿌리 내리며 캐주얼 가방의 트렌드를 이끌었지만, 오로지 스톡홀름의 플래그십 스토어에 발을 들여놓았을 때에야 브랜드 고유의 자연 친화적이고 소박한 매력을 최대한으로 느낄 수 있다. 벽과 바닥이 모두 나무 패널로 뒤덮여 스웨덴 호숫가의 작은 오두막을 연상시키는 이 매장에서, 정직한 디자인의 가죽과 캔버스 소재 가방들을 보고 있는 것만으로도 당신의 마음은 이미 스칸디나비아의 울창한 숲 속을 거닐고 있을 것이다. SWEDEMBORGSGATAN 3, STOCKHOLM WWW.SANDQVIST.NET
3 Chiodo 하이패션을 추구하는 사람들은 세계 어디든 있다. 키오도는 남반구의 조용한 도시 멜버른에서 오래전부터 패션 터줏대감 역할을 해온 편집매장. 준야 와타나베, 옴므, 옴므 플러스와 셔츠 등 꼼 데 가르송이 선보이는 라인의 대부분을 비롯해 마르틴 마지엘라와 제임스 퍼스같이 모던한 브랜드를 주로 취급한다. 매장의 오너인 앤드루 키오도가 자신의 이름을 따 전개하는 자체 브랜드 ‘키오도’ 또한 세계 어디서도 찾을 수 없는 독창적 스타일과 세련된 감성을 담고 있다. 미니멀하고 차가운 인테리어에 하이패션의 끝을 달리는 제품 셀렉션을 선보이지만 아침엔 훌리오 이글레시아스의 음악을 튼다든가 온라인 숍을 통해 레바논산 오이를 판매하는 등 적당히 가볍고 유머러스한 성향을 유지하는 것 또한 키오도의 매력. 최근엔 시드니의 오래된 헤리티지 건물을 개조한 두 번째 매장을 오픈해 지구 반대편마저 패셔너블하게 만드는 데 박차를 가하고 있다. 114 RUSSELL STREET, MELBOURNE WWW.CHIODO.NET.AU
4 Denham Service Co. 덴햄은 우리에게는 낯설지만, 유러피언들에겐 익숙한 청바지의 이름이다. 편안한 멋과 실용주의적 디자인을 무기로 ‘프리미엄 데님 브랜드’라는 개념을 처음 시도한 브랜드 중 하나. 그런 프리미엄 브랜드의 가치를 이어가기 위해 덴햄의 창립자 제이슨 덴햄은 암스테르담의 플래그십 스토어 바로 옆에 덴햄 서비스 컴퍼니를 오픈했다. 이곳은 브랜드가 추구하는 ‘나만의 데님’이라는 철학을 고수하고자 청바지를 손으로 직접 얼터링해주는 데님 비스포크 센터. 바로 옆 덴햄 매장에서 새로 산 청바지의 기장을 감쪽같이 줄이는 것은 물론 튀어나온 무릎 리페어링, 핸드 워싱을 통한 물 빼기, 커스텀메이드 라벨 달기, 징이나 체인 같은 커스텀 메탈 장식하기 등 나만의 데님을 만드는 데 필요한 서비스를 제공한다. 그것도 모두 15유로 미만의 낮은 가격에 말이다. 앞으로 암스테르담을 방문할 일이 있다면 오래된 청바지만큼은 꼭 챙겨가자. PRINSENGRACHT 493, 1016HR AMSTERDAM WWW.DENHAMTHEJEANMAKER.COM
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5 l’Usine 호치민에 위치한 루진은 프랑스령 인도차이나 시절의 향수를 불러일으키는 특별한 곳이다. 프랑스어로 공장(Usine)을 뜻하는 이름의 이 편집매장은 1930년대 직물 공장을 개조해 만든 곳으로, 패션 아이템뿐만 아니라 넓은 테라스의 카페와 아트 갤러리를 함께 운영하고 있는 복합 리테일 스페이스. 큰 창문을 통해 가득 들어오는 햇살과 낡은 나무 의자, 인더스트리얼한 골동품 제품 전시대를 비롯해 세련된 바닥재와 곳곳에 배치된 활엽수들이 동남아시아 특유의 낭만을 선사하고, 인더스트리얼한 느낌의 유러피언 브랜드 제품이 인테리어와 자연스럽게 어우러진다. 카페에서 서빙하는 구르메 식단에 대해서는 두말할 필요 없고, 갤러리 공간에서는 베트남의 로컬 아티스트를 비롯해 전 세계에서 촉망받는 신인 아티스트의 전시를 정기적으로 기획해 고객들의 우아한 취미 생활까지 보장해준다. 151/1 DONG KHOI STREET, DISTRICT 1, HOCHIMINH CITY LUSINESPACE.COM 진행/오충환, 박정하, 이승준(베를린, 안트베르펜)
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WWD WEDNESDAY, APRIL 18, 2012
SECTION II
WWD.COM
WWD DENIM IN DEPTH
Denim Runs Deep in Jeans Firms’ DNA Even as they diversify, companies cling to genetic indigo culture. men’s and women’s. Four years ago, it introduced collections in women’s and, starting with a base of about 10 percent of that business, is now up to about 35 percent. “Everything’s about longevity with us,” Millar said. “There’s a lot of potential in the U.S. for fashion brands, but there are so many ways to get it wrong.” The plan to move beyond blue jeans has been in the works at Joe’s Jeans since 2003. That year, the City of Commerce, Calif.-based company began selling jackets, knits and shorts. By 2007, six years after its founding, it was a fully developed lifestyle collection for men, women and kids. Today, its offerings include footwear, handbags and accessories. “The goal was always to have a contemporary sportswear lifestyle brand,” said Joe’s Jeans ceo Marc Crossman. “As we open more stores, we are able to showcase more of our collection in order to align the consumer’s perception of the brand with ours…With department stores, we work to develop shop-in-shops wherever possible. We also have retail specialists that travel the country training retail sales staff about the brand and our product offering.”
From J Brand’s first sportswear collection.
PHOTO BY STEFANIE KEENAN
By KHANH T.L. TRAN and ARNOLD J. KARR
— WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM MELISSA DRIER AND ALEX WYNNE
ISSUE | APRIL .12
Last year, AG Adriano Goldschmied partnered with the former founders of T Los Angeles to introduce knit tops. The knits were the latest category in the South Gate, Calif.-based brand’s expansion to encompass khaki, corduroy and twill bottoms, denim shorts and cropped jeans. As such, blue indigo denim now makes up 65 percent of the business, compared to more than 90 percent when AG started in 2001. “At AG, we are committed to creating a lifestyle brand that is focused around chic, classic and sophisticated denim,” said Sam Ku, vice president and creative director at AG Adriano Goldschmied. “As long as the products in other categories go with the AG brand identity, we are not worried about creating any confusion. It is logical that we would design product that is meant to go with our jeans.” For Seven For All Mankind, the DNA of the brand resides in a modern California lifestyle, which helped it progress with brand extensions and new products. “Expanding our assortment to incorporate other sportswear pieces that pair back to denim was a natural progression for our brand,” said Barry Miguel, president of Los Angeles-based Seven. “Our sportswear line is very cohesive with our denim and we feel very strongly about making sure the collection tells a clear lifestyle message.”
That message is reiterated through high-profile ad campaigns, including the spring promotion that was shot and directed by “127 Hours” actor James Franco. At retail, all Seven products are currently merchandised in the denim department, Miguel said. “Based on our assortment, this is the right positioning for the brand,” he said. “As our sportswear business continues to grow and the collection continues to develop, we may have visibility in the collection area, as well.” Hudson Jeans, also based in City of Commerce, has always featured nondenim fabrics and alternatives to five-pocket jeans in its lineup. Peter Kim, Hudson’s ceo, said nondenim fabrics and weaves such as twill, corduroy and velvet, come into play throughout the year, whereas shorts are strong for spring and summer, and denim jackets are a year-round staple. Still, he said the company will always be grounded in denim. “We believe that denim is the perfect representation of the brand ethos and message,” Kim said. “That is our core competency and what we do really well and how we have developed our relationship with our customers.” Hudson has worked extensively with ISKO, the Turkish mill that’s the world’s largest denim producer and a unit of Sanko Holding, on fabric innovations such as the so-called “F&F” technology that gives woven denim many of the performance characteristics of a knit. For spring, Hudson and ISKO are launching Turbotech, a new denim technology which allows the wearer to customize and accelerate the evolution of jeans “from raw to vintage” through various cleaning and wearing regimens. Another ISKO collaborator, Sweden’s Nudie Jeans remains heavily focused on denim, but has branched out into a khaki collection that accounts for about 5 percent of its bottoms sales as it’s worked on building its organic cotton business in collaboration with ISKO. “As we expanded into khakis, the perception of the brand has remained the same — Nudie Jeans is a denim brand with its roots firmly set,” said Andreas Ahrman, sales and marketing director. “Our khaki line isn’t so much a competitor to our denim, but more of an accessory” with similar heritage, durability and originality. “Nudie Jeans will always stay true to denim; khaki just helps to tell the story in another accent, like Swedish heritage with a twist.” Like many denim firms, Nudie has actively pursued a two-fold approach to sustainability, both in its treatment of the environment and the treatment of workers throughout its supply chain. For fall, ISKO worked with Nudie to realize a dream of its founders, Palle Stenberg and Maria Erixon Levin, of an all-organic denim line. Despite its name, Denham the Jeanmaker views denim as its base rather than sole jurisdiction. “Our concept since Day One has been to create a brand with a mixed assortment of exciting denim and sportswear products,” said Jason Denham, founder of the Amsterdam-based company. “This was our vision four years ago when we created the brand. My background and the experience of our team has always been involved in this mix of products.” With high-end denim business pressured in recent seasons, there’s a dichotomy between companies focused on denim and those who are after nondenim fabrics and novelty silhouettes. Novelty fashion makes up 75 percent of the lineup at Rich & Skinny, according to Michael Glasser, ceo of the Vernon, Calif.-based firm and a co-founder of Seven For All Mankind and Citizens of Humanity. “The excitement in the marketplace, without question, is the novelty part of the business, which in my mind allows the jean business to keep going,” Glasser said. “It gives the department a freshness that we never had before. [In the past] it was a blue jean or nothing. You get stale after a while.” However, blue and black denim makes up as much as 75 percent of Earnest Sewn’s fall line. “I think everyone is going to have their prints and patterns and be over it very quickly,” said Benjamin Talley Smith, creative director of the New York-based firm. “The thing we do is about wash technique and wash process.” The line does include camouflage and cotton candy prints, sometimes employing various pigments and laser technology to apply and remove layers of color. “It still feels like our brand DNA,” Smith said. “We’re selling ourselves as a denim brand.”
WOMENS WEAR DAILY
DENIM IS NOT LIKE those other classifications. Elsewhere in the apparel industry, people move among various classifications and price points with ease. But indigo tends to work its way into the blood of the marketers and merchants who work in the jeans field, and they’re equally protective of the enterprises in which they work, nearly always making it clear that, regardless of which colors, prints or silhouettes work their way into their lines, or how much nondenim may contribute to their sales or future prospects, jeans are in their genes and denim is in their DNA. Even as their businesses diversify beyond denim, most are proud to identify it as their core competency. Like many Baby Boomers, Renzo Rosso, founder and chairman of Diesel and its parent, Only the Brave Srl, equated jeans with freedom and rebellion, leading him to start a jeans brand that embraced values such as “individuality, irreverence, bravery and freedom,” he said. “And these values translated very soon into a lifestyle. We were pioneers in this — we had to fight at the beginning — but today it sounds quite normal. When lifestyle is authentic, it can be applied to many categories, starting from a full nondenim apparel collection, to accessories, to fragrances and so on.” As he’s expanded the Diesel concept, he’s come to use quality and creativity as his brand checkpoints. “I am never satisfied,” he said. “I am always looking into the next project and every single product we create deserves a massive dose of the Diesel DNA.” Johan Lindeberg, a Diesel veteran, works off similar instincts in his latest venture, BLK DNM. “I like denim to be about half of what’s in the line,” he said. “I do a lot of collection pieces, but they all have to play back into the core of denim. Even going into fragrances and sunglasses, I work very much by intuition, whether or not something ‘feels’ like the brand to me. It’s got to feel right.” He’s not apologetic about his subjectivity either. He’s worked leathers and tailored pieces for women and men into his line, but has stayed away from one of the denim market’s frequent go-to categories: “I don’t do chinos because I don’t like chinos.” Even as it marks its 30th anniversary at retail with sub-brands such as Guess by Marciano and G by Guess, as well as a plethora of categories including shoes, watches and handbags that befit a lifestyle brand, Guess Inc. still regards itself as a denim company, first and foremost. “Denim is what drives our innovation and grounds us in our 30 years of heritage,” said Nancy Shachtman, president of North America at Los Angeles-based Guess. “As our business has grown and as we’ve expanded into other categories — a process that began early in our evolution — we’ve remained continually focused on how all of our categories reinforce denim as the heart and soul of our brand.” Jeff Rudes, chief executive officer of J Brand, noted that denim — “a dark, clean jean” — was the company’s starting point, but never its intended destination. “Ready-to-wear was in our plans from the very beginning,” he said. “We knew the jean would help build the brand and, even though denim was a big part of our heritage as a brand, the intention was to build a fashion brand based on a great jean.” The firm took a major step in that direction with the introduction of its women’s collection, which hit about 140 upscale stores, about twice the original projection, this spring. Rudes said the assortment was never meant as simply an add-on to its denim efforts. “We didn’t want to put it in the denim space,” he said. “We placed it in contemporary areas in fine specialty stores and we made a big investment to get it right, with its own design team, led by Donald Oliver. We didn’t rush it. We gave it time to make sure we’d built loyalty to the brand with the customer, and nine months so that nothing we offered did anything but enhance the brand.” “We’ve always had collection pieces, but denim is our base and everything we do ties back to denim, which is about 40 percent of our business,” said Stuart Millar, ceo, North America, for Amsterdambased G-Star Raw. “We offered a collection very early and have developed strength in jackets and outershirts, which have grown every year.” It continues to generate about two-thirds of its volume in men’s, with the goal of a 50-50 split between
THE MERRYMAKERS
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ST YLISH CHAP
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DENIM ARCHIVE
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HELL’S KITCHEN
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CULTJA
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ISSUE | MARCH .12
BUSINESS PUNK
OURBUBBLE
ONLINE | OURBUBBLE.NL
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