14 minute read
70% TENCEL™ POLYESTER, 8% RECYCLED COTTON, 1% LYCRA®
Winter Tech
Indigo meets winter performance in an array of weaves and finishing techniques that bring indigo and denim textiles to the forefront of winter lifestyles. Achieving a balance of functionality, enhanced protection from the elements as well as maintaining future focused design and finishings drive this category.
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Kipas uses a recycled polyester blend to achieve the appearance and properties of virgin synthetic fibers while maintaining stretch and recovery in their micro canvas weave. Palace X Northface Purple Label released their anticipated collaboration earlier this year exclusively in Japan, including technical indigo ripstop, paneled pant.
Stella Blu presents a technical down jacket with in a classic 3x1 Cotton, Nylon twill, ideal for quilting and layering.
Kilim’s 100% Cotton quality combines the feel and warmth of a traditional 3x1 twill, with enhanced element protection including water and oil repellant.
KILIM - D6494
100% COTTON (WATER & OIL REPELLENT)
Thermoregulation
Sharabati Denim use Coolmax All Season fiber in their high stretch denim which keeps you warm in Winter and cool in Summer time. This fabric is suitable for every season with it’s high performance
US Denim have a soft touch, thermal regulation knit denim that contains a recycled polyester but they also have a non knit denim quality in 75% cotton, 25% thermolite with 1% elastane.
Advanced Denim launch their WAFER 26 technology, a multi-functional fibre that creates all-season temperature adjustment. It keeps your body warm & cozy in winter and dry and cool in the summer.
Neela combines performance with circularity in one with their blend of Rayon, Acrylic and LYCRA®. Moisture management and enhanced breathability combine with sustainable and recycled materials.
SHARABATI DENIM - ULTRA ALINE 40 AC OCEAN
70% COTTON, 21% COOLMAX, 7% T400, 2 LYCRA®
US DENIM MILLS - PRT-0277AD
64% COTTON, 19 POLYESTER, 16% TRUETEMP, 1% ELASTANE
PANTHER - 200189
45% COTTON, 25.5 % POLYESTER, 14% RAYON, 14% ACRYLIC, 1.5 LYCRA®
ADVANCE - QA419S7-40A
76% COTTON, 26, WAFER, 1% LYCRA®
NEELA BLUE - NB-02127-FH
45% COTTON, 25.5% POLYESTER, 14% RAYON, 14% ACRYLIC, 1.5% LYCRA®
Built to Last
Durability, longevity, performance: all attributes that are highly sought after as consumers search for purchase justifications; items that work harder and resonate with their lifestyle.
Beximco uses UHMWEP, an ultra-high molecular weight fiber to enhance durability and resist abrasion, wear and tear while maintaining high performance recovery and increasing the garments lifetime. US Denim Mills also incorporates synthetic fiber strength to increase performance and durability. Soorty combines high cotton and C400 content for a highly durable heavyweight with excellent recovery.
Crescent Bahuman’s classic yet versatile 14.5oz rigid, heavy weight denim is suitable for both top and bottom categories, nodding to heritage minded workwear.
Fiber strength and integrity is often lost when recycling plant based fibers but Panther denim is using yarn technology to bring recycled cotton into the realm of durable fabrication qualities with a rigid, tear resistant denim containing 35% recycled content.
CRESCENT BAHUMAN - XA-3232-N
100% COTTON
SOORTY - 50036D FF1 W 4
95% COTTON, 4% C400, 1% ELA
US DENIM MILLS - PRT-0302AC
82% COTTON, 16% NYLON, 2% ELA
Panama
Rugged and durable canvas weaves and panama surfaces continue to trend after the resurgence of Carhartt fabrics on the market. Mills experiment with deep indigo shades and two-tone graphic canvas effects.
Naveena’s recent Bast, Recast line features this beautiful hemp/cotton mix that makes use of hemp’s durability and tactility. ISKO’s 13oz inky panama weave is a perfect work pant fabrication whereas Stella Blu’s lighter weight offering works for pants or shirt jackets alike. Bossa opts for a 2x2 panama rather than the traditional 1x1 to great results: this fabric would make perfect overcoat or kimono styles for the discerning denimhead.
NAVEENA - NDL-5404-M-01
55% HEMP 45% COTTON
BOSSA - RN0592
100% COTTON
BEXIMCO - 9K9685
59.5% COTTON, 40.4% RECYCLED COTTON, 10.1 % RECYCLED POLYESTER
Winter Textures
Nodding to the aesthetic shifts in winter apparel, innovative weave and surface textures drive fabric development from soft and chunky dobby ’s too thick and cozy double weave structures.
Paul Vogel taps their hand crafted loom technique to create a unique dobby structure resembling a shaved pile weave. While Beximco’s blends cotton and viscose for a textured yet soft and malleable dobby.
US Denim’s knit look dobby denim retains a soft yet structured appearance, cosy handfeel, mild drape and comfort stretch.
Panther includes a deep shade indigo shirting with pointelle like detailing and contrast.
Kuroki’s quilted double weave, encompasses winter wardrobe versatility as it easily moves through mens and women’s product categories of cosy and oversized silhouettes.
Neela Blue’s hybrid and unisex article offers a PJ like, cosy comfort feel without compromising performance and innovative weave structure.
DIESEL SS22
PAUL VOGEL
100% COTTON
US DENIM - PRT-0406CA
82% COTTON, 2% PES, 1% EL
Mid-Century Marble
Keeping denim old-school, a nostalgic 50’s and 60’s sentiment is recreated for today, using 100% cotton characterful yarn with a textured orange peel surface that blooms upon wash down. These fabrics are a blast from the past!
Vintage character experts, AGI have modernized their 100% cotton, marble effect denim with a beautiful blue-black shade. Kipas have also also opted for 100% cotton, achieving an EMI score of 27. Nostalgia is the new luxury for Soorty, who’s lighter wash-down at their vertical facility achieves those beautiful flame effects.
Sharabati Denim opt for a heavyweight rigid fabric with a salt and pepper effect. This authentic look fabric is available in multiple black, indigo and overdid colors. Prosperity are the exceptions to the 100% cotton rule with their cotton/ poly/ LYCRA® comfort stretch, but the effect is so perfect, they had to feature!
@FEAROFGOD
HANTEX/ DESERT STUDIO DUBAI - HTX-13321-HF
100% COTTON
PROSPERITY - A4238B-1
92% COTTON, 7% SUSTAINABLE POLYESTER, 1% LYCRA®
SHARABATI DENIM - RW JAMON ROCK
100% COTTON
Invisible Attributes
We’re all in the business of making the perfect 5 pocket jean and this season, mills focus on authentic denim looks whilst adding invisible benefits to create additional value and storytelling.
Smarter fibre combinations such as hemp, TENCEL™ , recycled cotton, REFIBRA™ and recycled polyester work behind the scenes to make up these relatively simple but in fact rather complex denims. Most mills, now focused on sustainability, fold in a certain percentage of recycled cotton into the majority of their fabrics as solutions for fiber strength become more widespread. Many mills are also tapping hemp as a combination ingredient, known for its slubby character and more sustainable cultivation. Bossa’s organic and REFIBRA™ blend also incorporates an 85% water saving compared to conventional dying and is designed to be laser and ozone friendly.
LEE
ISKO - DENIM LOVERS COMFORT / R-TWOTM
71% COTTON, 24% REUSED COTTON, 4% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 1% ELASTANE
SOORTY - 3998A RF W ECO
65% COTTON, 15% HEMP, 15% TENCEL™, 5% T400, 1% ELASTANE
PROSPERITY - A3479S-11
79% COTTON, 20% RECYCLED COTTON, 1% OTHER
Authentic Black
Yarn dyed or over-dyed black with faded, authentic character and hidden, added value remains a seasonal essential for FW22. Mills explore sustainable ingredients such as recycled cotton and polyester (ISKO and Sharabati Denim) as well as BCI cotton (Artistic Milliners)
Tapping the heritage attitude to appeal to a more discerning, premium customer, two mills decide to add selvedge to their offering. US Denim launch a selvedge quality denim with an authentic natural slub. Japanese mill, Kuroki go one step further with a new line of custom selvedge weaves. This red spotty selvedge adds a playful touch to an otherwise core, premium denim.
@UNSOUNDRAGS
SAITEX / XXXX ISKO - DENIM LOVERS
CODE REFORM HP / R-TWOTM 77% COTTON, 14% POST INDUSTRIAL RECYCLED COTTON, 7% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 2% ELASTANE
US DENIM - 1990BPL01 (PRT-0640)
81% COTTON, 18% POLYESTER, 1% ELASTANE
SHARABATI DENIM - P-ULTRA PRESLEY BK/BK
74% COTTON, 20% RECYCLED POST CONSUMER COTTON, 5% T400, 1% LYCRA®
KUROKI - OG77BK
100% COTTON
Inky Spill
As color becomes more important in denim once again, mostly focusing around natural and natural tones, inky green cast indigos emerged as a key denim shade for FW22.
Layered coatings or overdyes combine indigo with sulphur black, either as a coating or as a welt tint. Kilim, Vicunha and US denim all launched an aquamarine indigo shade that bridges the gap between indigo and colored denim.
DNM presented a more menswearcentric, authentic comfort stretch, green cast denim with beautiful chip-off capabilities.
DIESEL FW21
KIPAS - 29927-ZB
99% POST INDUSTRIAL RECYCLED COTTON, 1% RECYCLED ELASTANE
US DENIM MILLS - PRT-0669A
99% COTTON, 1% ELASTANE
KILIM - 90921
98.7% COTTON, 1.3 % ELASTANE
Plaid
A seasonal staple gets an upgrade with characterful, tactile surfaces, and modern applications of this fall and winter favorite.
Kipas exemplifies versatility with their 100% organic cotton, reversible and brushed fabrication.
Beximco’s innovative indigo yarn dyes resemble textured and washed down twills throughout the textile. Stella blue captures an engineered slubby tactile appearance that adds texture to their plaid and Goldrush Stardust wow with a Japanese warped check.
Far East Network’s double weave chambray in 100% cotton, bridges the gap of casual to corporate shirtings. Panther’s comfort stretch, printed reverse fabrications adds a touch of plaid backing to a classic bright blue 3x1.
ALBERTA FERRETTI FW21
STELLA BLU - 5S531
100% COTTON
PANTHER - 190044
99% COTTON, 1% LYCRA®
GOLDRUSH STARDUST - MSC75782OG
100% COTTON
Stripe
Yarn dyed techniques give mills an opportunity to explore tactile and novel ways to update the classic indigo and ecru stripe. Utilizing herringbones, chevrons and ticking stripes as well as variegated dobby’s, these textured updates add bespoke interest.
Jacquard masters, 496 Fabric Lab combine a simple twill stripe with and allover relief logo, perfect for an elevated brand. Stella Blu’s 100% cotton micro herringbone is in a super soft BCI cotton. Far East Network combine classic mattress ticking with an unbleached cotton with seed flecks and Beximco combine bold yarn dyed stripes with an intricate dobby texture.
496 FABRIC LAB - SBL01
100% COTTON
PAUL VOGAL - DSC_1708
100% COTTON
FAR EAST NETWORK - 11547-CL (157)
98% COTTON 2% ELASTANE
Vintage Crackle
RUDOLF - 21-A17
100% COTTON WITH CYCLELOGIC AND RUCOGEN
Laundry lines, crackle effects and scrunching effects become highlighted and exaggerated design details on a variety of base washes. A play on textile characteristics and washes throughout the ages, Ranging from vintage wash and wear on mid century characterful denim through to modern archive development of high contrast marbled and lightening like patterns. Bringing theses washes into this century is the eco-saving technology behind the coveted washes that were at one time environmentally damaging.
Rudolf Chemical’s Cycle-Logic finishing technologies are composed up cycled post consumer plastic bottle waste. They developed an advanced indigo dispersing agent, Rucogen from up cycled RNB, enabling high contrast, no bleed washes.
OFFICINA+39 applies their Aqua Ageless, Active Slub-B and o-zone powder on deep tone indigo resulting in high contrast washes, with less water needed than ever.
Saitex USA’s state-of-the-art wash and finishing capabilities allow for timeless high’s and low’s, indigo seam pooling and starch, accentuated laundry lines with no harmful chemicals, no water waste and no compromise of design or quality.
ISKO’s bright blue cast provides for directional allover texture. DNM’s slubby, faded fabrication captures the heritage of laundry line fades.
SAITEX USA - XÁC THỰC
NON TOXIC LAUNDRY 3D MACTEC CURING TECHNOLOGY
ISKO - SIMPLIFY REFORM HP / R-TWOTM
78% COTTON, 14% REUSED COTTON, 6% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 2% ELASTANE
NAVEENA - NDL-5485-A-16
62% COTTON, 19% HEMP, 19% MODAL
Carhartt Palette
There’s been a vintage explosion, especially in the US, of vintage Carhartt work pants and jackets, resulting in a neutral denim and workwear trend that’s perfect for Fall. As mills tap this color story, they also explore new, more sustainable ways to apply color.
Beximco use a coating rather than a dyestuff to create acidwash-like highlow contrast and Cone denim team up with Miles Johnson to utilize Tonello WAKE’s new food waste dying machinery. DDI dye their loose, supple and draped 100% cotton PFD's with a recycled dyestuff
Shades range from tan and mushroom through to warm ecru.
UNSOUND RAGS
DENIM DE L'ILE - BELLINI WHITE
100% COTTON
COLLECT - OG1310
100% ORGANIC COTTON
DESERT STUDIO DUBAI - ST-7006-916
98% COTTON, 2% ELASTANE