6% COTTON, 34.6% TENCEL™ , 15.4% NAIA™

Dirty Tints

Mid-Century, workwear, midwestern denim and vintage has long served as wash and finish inspiration for jeans of today, however it wasn’t until recently have we began to see the gravitation towards oil, grass and overall super dirty jeans, the exact markings that landed those jeans at goodwill to begin with, are now highly sought after.

Saitex USA uses naturally derived tint recipes and eco-sustainable applications to achieve realistic tint colors and stain patterning.

Rudolf uses its Washless technology to preserve wash and finishing techniques, by reducing the frequency of at home washes needed and extend the look of the garment.

Crescent Bahaman pairs light wash comfort stretch denim with a warm, rusty over dye. Desert Studios tonal tinting and repair work on a soft touch, slubby weave, nods to traditional heritage wear and aging.

BLIND DATE CO

RUDOLF - 21-A22

HUB 1922 WASHLESS TECHNOLOGY

DESERT STUDIO - 0168KIARA

90% COTTON, 8% PES, 2 ELASTANE

Camo Wash

Nature’s camouflage mixes surfaces inspired by nature with nature-friendly techniques to create symbiosis between man and nature.

Cone collaborated with MN Dye studio, a natural dye artist based in the Catskills, NY to create beautiful, fluid jeans with a mottled natural wash.

OFFICINA+39used Nebudye dyestuffs , which are an ozone powder that creates bleached, distressed and worn looks that are chlorine and permanganate free.

DOUBLET SS22

OFFICINA+39 - 210205

NEBUDYE D

CONE DENIM - 3263Y

75% COTTON, 25% TENCEL™

LOW-KEY LUXE

Comfort, tactility and flexibility are at the heart of tomorrow’s denim design. As we return to life’s ‘new normal’ our clothing needs have changed dramatically. Workwear has taken on a new meaning as working from home becomes an excepted part of the corporate experience. Versatile denim looks refined and chic, feels amazing but provides us with all the benefits of the perfect jean.

Mills tackle size problems caused by online shopping and fluctuating post-covid bodies, creating a more inclusive and versatile fabric than ever before. Hidden stretch and comfort is also key as our love for authentic weaves and vintage looks continues.

KEY VENDORS

CALIK ISKO KILIM ARVIND

@DIESEL

@HEDMAYNER

Easy Jean

Smooth, supple constructions combine with high elasticity capabilities to create an elevated WFH look with all the comfort of a track pant. These mostly lightweight (5-6oz) fabrics offer great stretch and recovery alongside ultra soft and smooth finishes. Mills explore sustainable ingredients such as recycled polyester and reused cotton (ISKO) or ECOVERO™ and REFIBRA™ (Soorty)

Vicunha and DNM push the sporty button and tap legging or track pant qualities but with an elevated, sophisticated aspect. AGI pair their 100% stretch with an impressive 94.6% recovery.

KIKO KOSTADINOV MENS SS22

ISKO - SIMPLIFY COMFORT / R-TWOTM

57% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 39% COTTON, 2% REUSED COTTON, 2% ELASTANE

VICUNHA - ECO SQUASH

77% COTTON, 21% POLYESTER, 2% ELASTANE

SOORTY - 8089A-RF-CF-SD201-W

35% ECOVERO™, 35% REFIBRA™, 25% COTTON, 4% T400, 1% LYCRA®

Loop Back

As innovation continues to elevate knit denim and double weave construction both aesthetically and technically, these fabrications move beyond winter basics.

Coming out of a year and a half of lounge and comfort dressing, many consumers are facing sweatpants fatigue but continue to seek comfort in their indoor-to-outdoor wear. Visible and authentic twills team with soft and comfortable loop-back wefts for wide leg, five pocket styles and cargo detailed joggers.

Neela Blue’s soft touch, mid-drape loop back quality combines fluffy acrylic properties with rayon drape and comfort stretch. PG denim embraces winter warmth with a wool mix development.

NEELA BLUE - NB-02130-FM

45% COTTON, 25.5% POLY, 14% RAYON, 14% ACRYLIC, 1.5% LYCRA®

SHARABATI DENIM - IDOL / RS OCEAN

93% COTTON, 6% T400, 1% LYCRA®

Spongey Stretch

A playful stretch story to emerge from last season’s 80’s obsession, mills pair heavier, winter-weight weaves with highintensity stretch capabilities to create these chunky 3x1 twills.

Open-end appearances nod to lowquality 70’s and 80’s constructions whilst comfort, handful and excellent recovery set these stretches apart from their retro counterparts. Calik has designed their fabric with shorter fibers in mind: it has an 80’s, open-end appearance yet contains recycled cotton, polyester and eco-made elastane.

Blue Diamond achieves a super high stretch spandex stretch, softened with modal. These new power stretches offer a modern alternative to archival vintage.

PROSPERITY - RA3782-21

83% COTTON, 16% POLYESTER, 1% LYCRA®

CALIK - 73382D

61% POST INDUSTRIAL RECYCLED COTTON, 20% RECYCLED COTTON, 17 % REPREVE POLYESTER, 2% ECO LYCRA®

BEXIMCO - H0109B-K2D

79% COTTON, 19% POLYESTER, 2% ELASTANE

Flex-Fit

Versatility becomes increasingly imperative for the denim fabrics that will entice tomorrow’s consumer. Mills present authentic looks and handfeels that appeal across ages, genders and size-brackets and work with the consumer’s fluctuating needs. Calik were one of the first mills to tackle the online buying / returns problem with their Selfsized range, aimed to decrease the number of garments produced at manufacturing stage and make it easier for shoppers to find the perfect fitting jean. Vicunha and Kipas have joined the party with their FREEF!T® / Fit-ID ranges and Soorty takes a step towards inclusive fashion and diversity with their unisex, e-commerce friendly and 100% stretch fabric. Vicunha: light weight 50% stretch / 9.5 oz (V.move) / LYCRA® dualFX®, FREEF!T®.

Appearance is also key and a high stretch content that maintains an authentic look and feel remains a basic requirement. AGI’s beautiful high stretch quality is slubby, with a non stretch look.

Arvind’s season-less and genderless high stretch denim quality, SIRO, uses Cleankore tech to eliminate the use of PP spray and make it laser friendly while maintaining a soft handful and a high stretch capacity.

GOOD AMERICAN

CALIK - 72564D

63% ORGANIC COTTON, 27% COTTON, 5.5% RECYCLED POLYESTER 4.5% LYCRA®

AGI DENIM - 17489

89% COTTON, 5% POST CONSUMER COTTON, 4% T400, 1% ELASTANE

KIPAS / 28194 VICUNHA - RITZ

52% LYOCELL, 36% 89% COTTON, 9% ORGANIC COTTON, ELASTOMULTIESTER, 6% ELASTANE 2% ELASTANE

SOORTY - N-RO-107TORH-1726E-DP

89% COTTON, 7% T-400, 4% ELASTANE

ARVIND - SIRO

71% COTTON, 26% POLYESTER, 3% ELASTANE

Supple Smart

As many in the workforce head back to the office, attend in-person meetings and begin to travel for business again, wardrobes are in a mode of refreshment. The impact of not only working but also socializing from home has led to a need for versatile fabrics suitable for coffee dates or morning commutes, in a new age of anywhere and everywhere styling and fabrication.

Tight structured woven constructions elevate denim aspects and hit the intersection of office casual meets heritage trouser styling.

Calik Denim presents their D-Leisure super soft and fluid 100% cotton which has been infused with R-Vital® multivitamin treatment. Artistic Milliners blend BCI Cotton with TENCEL™ for increased drape. US Denim captures deep, rich tones while adding stretch and fluid comfort.

TOD’S MENSWEAR SPRING ‘22

CALIK-73471D

100% COTTON

US DENIM-PRT-0561A

74% COTTON, 23% POLY, 3% ELASTANE

Softened Rigid

In a market where comfort is king but authentic character is an essential, mills respond to consumer demand with open, fluid and non-stretch denims.

Many mills are exploring the benefits of mixing cotton with TENCEL™ / lyocell to add drape without the shine, and AGI Denim add Supima for increased softness. Kilim have blended cotton and TENCEL™ with NAIA™, a new cellulosic staple fibre, introduced in 2020 and also known for its tactility and quick drying qualities. But one of the newest buzzwords in comfort is ‘Mechanical Stretch’ tapped by both Panther Denim and AGI Denim.

In an attempt to eliminate non biodegradable yarns such as elastane and spandex, mechanical stretch is usually created in the finishing process and offers open fluidity and malleability to rigid fabrics.

AGI DENIM - AGI-17263

60% SUPIMA, 38% CONVENTIONAL COTTON, 2% TENCEL™ LYOCELL

ARTISTIC MILLINERS - FULTON

60% ORGANIC COTTON 40% TENCEL™

PANTHER DENIM - 200965

100% COTTON

Everyday Comfort

Alongside all the technical advances this season, perfecting the perfect core comfort stretch is a perennial obligation for any mill.

An essential 1% comfort stretch is added to these classic 99% cotton denims, whilst attention is paid to authentic yarn character and appearance. US denim focus on a delicate but noticeable vertical slub in a selvedge quality for the discerning denimhead whilst Advance and DNM perfect the strong and clean twill lines reminiscent of a 90’s 501. AGI Denim take full advantage of their inhouse recycling plant, folding 5% recycled yarns into their 80’s/90’s look ‘marble tech’ denim.

As comfort becomes a wardrobe requirement, even the most authentic looks are often hiding that subtle elastane.

B SIDES DENIM

US DENIM - PRT-0666A

99% COTTON, 1% ELASTANE

PROSPERITY - A4379C

99% COTTON, 1% LYCRA®

Brushed & Fleecy

Insulated casual wears become more versatile and appreciated throughout market segments as paired back wardrobes and versatile styles continue to take priority in the mind of consumers. Long gone are the days of excessive layering, just to don your favorite jeans in winter months. Warmth and fuzz levels ranging from brushed backs to cashmere double weaves and more.

Kipas harnesses the natural softness of organic cotton blended with recycled synthetics to create plush and reversible fabrications. Isko’s Cosy Suede double weave adds a built in layer of soft and textured warmth behind classic twill lines.

Bossa’s upgraded classic quality features authentic looking, high cotton content twill, with comfort stretch and brushed backing.

Hantex incorporates high stretch and recovery yarn technology with authentic slub lines and bright blue casts.

Panther taps the inherent properties of cashmere and lyocell for a soft, comfortable and livable quality.

HANTEX - HTX-S053M1D2A-B1

95% COTTON, 4% T400, 1% LYCRA®

ISKO - COSY SUEDE / R-TWOTM

17% REUSED COTTON, 1.5% ELASTANE, 51% COTTON, 10% POLYESTER, 16.5% RECYCLED POLYESTER, 4% POLYAMIDE

BOSSA - SK0502

99% COTTON, 1% ELASTANE

Tactile Stipe

Indigo textures and high piles make these tactile surfaces perfect for Winter. As corduroy continues to trend in the market as a winter alternative to denim, mills explore indigo dyed versions for the denim-centric market.

Paul Vogel, Blue Diamond and Rainbow all explore fluffy and brushed yarns to emulate that wintery feel. Stella Blu’s strong raised dobby is reminiscent of a Bedford weave and Bossa go all out with their raised wide stripe with high pile. Kipas offer a cotton hemp mix which is high in gloss, utilizing a chevron repeat: a different type of tactile altogether.

URBAN OUTFITTERS

BLUE DIAMOND - PD-04A

100% COTTON

RAINBOW - CD72051

98% COTTON, 2% ELASTANE

KIPAS - 28742

70% ORGANIC COTTON, 30% HEMP

DOPAMINE DENIM

Having explored sustainability, durability and comfort, it’s time to let our hair down and enjoy the roaring 20’s. A pure, joyful antidote to the last 18 months, we see attitudes begin to lift and the knock-on effect this has on design, emerges from the ashes.

Color, surface, tactility and creativity inspire playful denim design from acid washes and 80’s textures to laser and foiled finishes. Vendors maintain a strong eye on sustainability, as they explore more mindful ways to have some fun. Recycled textiles create colored dye effects, bleach alternatives are utilized and mills focus on energy, water and chemical savings throughout.

KEY VENDORS

PG DENIM DENIM DE L’ILLE OFFICINA+39 DESERT STUDIO

THIS IS A NAME

@YPROJECT

@LOUISVUITON

Solid Color

PFD’s allow for versatile and playful denim design as well as close to season updates. Mills upgrade this core quality with sustainable ingredients, softer fibers and tactile textures.

DENIM DE L'ILE have used a BCI cotton and over-dyed it in a powerful purple and a hot pink (not pictured here)

Beximco’s heavy weight seersucker and Blue Diamond’s corduroy adds wintery surface texture to these clean, solid shades whilst the use of TENCEL™ and modal, respectively, adds comfort and drape.

Collect keep it authentic with yarn dyed 100% cotton selvedge in stunning, bright shades.

RAF SIMONS FW21

DENIM DE L'ILE - TONNERRE WHITE

95% COTTON, 2% SPANDEX

BLUE DIAMOND - PD-04

100% COTTON

COLLECT - OG1310

100% COTTON

Foiled

Consumers are waking up excited to get dressed for the day again. As old traditions, like having a night out instead of in, return, so does the urge to see and be seen. Our minimalist tendencies of the last year are replaced by a maximalism attitude and dopamine inducing colors, finishings and styling.

Directional takes on a favorite winter finish by ISKO, highlighting fabric and construction details with luminescent foil contrast and placement as seen in Ottolinger SS21, with ISKO’s typical excellent stretch and recovery.

PG Denim’s foiling techniques highlight textured weave characteristics. These coatings come with laser design compatibility, meaning you can take foil to the next level!

Denim De L’ile blends a luxe, light catching coating with a soft and malleable, cotton poly, high stretch blend.

PG DENIIM - G0123 HARLEM SKY SPRAY

97% COTTON, 3% ELASTANE

PG DENIM - G0123 SUN SHINE LASER

97% COTTON, 3% ELASTANE

All Over 80’s

As this vintage fabric trend continues to endure and spread through the denim market we see more aggressive openend looks and salt and pepper surfaces emerging. A range of innovative content compositions and eco-conscious acid and stone wash alternatives, allow for specialized fabric properties with a retro look.

Soorty creates a classic salt and pepper stretch fabric with modern, ecoconscious composition, enhanced handfeel and drape by using zero cotton.

US Denim combine a comfort stretch and authentic 80’s look with 36% viscose, offering a drapey, soft handful.

Calik taps seamless fiber blends to create an authentic, rigid looking, slub and speckled quality with a softened texture and comfort stretch. Crescent Bahuman creates an authentic rigid quality, optimizing open-end staple fibers with a clean stone wash and bright base shade.

DNM’s super stretch quality mimics visual rigid fabric properties. Whereas Blue Diamond’s fibre composition gives this non-stretch fabric a speckled, smooth and stretch like surface.

LEVIS

SOORTY - N HW W TORS 3886B MR

33% TENCEL™, 24% COTTON, 53% ECOVERO™, 7% T400, 3% ELASTANE

CRESCENT BAHUMAN - XA-2798-B

100% COTTON

DNM - HELMAND OCEAN BLUE

99% COTTON, 1% ELASTANE

BLUE DIAMOND - SM-19

40% HEMP, 30% COTTON, 30% TENCEL™