540-4 by Denis Gathanju

ISSUE 04 // FEBRUARY-APRIL 2012

ONE-MILLIONTH CUSTOMER

PIERINA GETS A PLEASANT SURPRISE

EATING OUT THAI RESTAURANT OFFERS A UNIQUE DINING EXPERIENCE

Classic Safari Rally KENYANS THRILLED BY EVENT REVIVAL

WITH THE COMPLIMENTS OF FLY540 - AFRICA’S LOW COST AIRLINE

// 540 Issue 04 // February-April 2012

COST AIR L

E IN

Contents

AFRICAS L

540 MAGAZINE

: E AT N I ONL com

0. 4 5 w.fly w w K BOO

28 3 4

16 Welcome aboard! East African Safari Rally Kenyans thrilled by revival of classic motor rally

Technology Africa’s answer to Silicon Valley

Thai Chi Thai restaurant offers a unique dining experience

One-millionth customer Pierina gets a pleasant surprise

Kitengela Hot Glass Creating works of art? It’s a lot of hot air…

Swahili goes global Lingua franca of East Africa brings key benefits

Hillcrest School Students make a ‘beeline’ for Turkana – thanks to Fly540

23 LAND & MARINE PUBLICATIONS (KENYA) LTD Suite A5, 1st Floor, Ojijo Plaza 20 Plums Lane, off Ojijo Road, Parklands PO Box 2022, Village Market 00621, Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)20 374 1934 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com Editor: Denis Gathanju Sales Manager: Linda Gakuru

Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100, Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/2/3/4/5 Email info@fly540.com www.fly540.com Photo credit: www.mcklein.de The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

Kenyan handbags A unique appeal

26 28

The Fly540 network Lesley Sercombe The ace of thoroughbred racing in Kenya

Sister Mary’s lifeline of hope Catholic missionary seeks to empower Maasai girls through education

on behalf of

FLY540

Wine festival A first for Kampala

is published by

Matatu culture The world’s loudest, scariest bus ride

40 42 44 46 48

Travel information for East Africa Getting around in East Africa Fly540 fleet Kids’ corner Contact information

PLAN HOTEL

// Welcome

Welcome aboard! A MESSAGE FROM THE PUBLISHER

elcome to our fourth edition of 540 Magazine and the first issue of 2012.

For the past year Land & Marine Publications has worked in conjunction with Fly540 to bring together this quarterly magazine. Initial ideas and discussions about producing an in-flight magazine began in October 2010 in the hope of creating something that would be enjoyed and eventually eagerly anticipated by passengers. As a successful short-haul, no-frills operator, Fly540 had never provided in-flight entertainment – just convenient flight times to great locations at fantastic prices. A year on, we are delighted at how the magazine has established itself as part of the carrier’s on-board experience. Each issue covers a range of current topics and general-interest articles. We have also introduced a kids’ page for our younger flyers to help keep them amused during the flight. This edition focuses on recent events in the East Africa calendar, such as the

Kampala Wine Festival and the East African Safari Rally. The magazine also pays homage to local entrepreneurs, such as Anselm Croze (founder of Kitengela Hot Glass) and Joan Ntinga-Maitha (Kibeti Handbags) who both successfully manufacture locally sourced and highend Kenya-made goods.

Experience As ever, 540 editor Denis Gathanju brings a wealth of journalistic experience and ideas to the table. During this issue he takes a look at the origins of the Swahili language and also describes how ICT software and applications are putting Nairobi on the map. We hope you enjoy reading 540 and we welcome any comments from passengers about the current and future editions of the magazine. So sit back, enjoy the flight and let Fly540 take good care of you. Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd Email: publishing@landmarine.com

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Safari rally //

KENYANS THRILLED

BY REVIVAL OF CLASSIC MOTOR RALLY 4

www.fly540.com

he East African Classic Safari Rally brings back fond memories of the good old days. I remember a time when the Safari Rally enthralled Kenyans like no other sport before. Kenyans spoke about it with an unrivalled passion.

For me, though I was young and at school, I felt some of the Safari Rally fever. Local TV and radio stations would go gaga when the rally season began. Billed by many drivers as the world’s toughest rally, the Safari Rally was typically held in the long rain season that coincided with the Easter holidays, when many Kenyans were home on holiday. The excitement of seeing some of the world’s fastest and most powerful

Joginder Singh, Vic Preston, Björn Waldegård and Shekhar Mehta. Local rally hero Patrick Njiru would heighten the ecstatic feel of the rally and Kenyans would debate how far the local ace would fare against more experienced and better equipped international competitors.

In line with tradition, this year’s East African Classic Safari Rally began at the iconic elephant tusks in the heart of Mombasa machines was heightened by the combination of wet and muddy conditions in some places and dry and dusty conditions in others. Until 2002 the Safari Rally was part of the World Rally Championships but, after it was dropped from the WRC calendar, the thrill died down for a while. While it was still a WRC fixture, the Safari Rally attracted some of the top international drivers including Juha Kankkunen,

After the Safari Rally was withdrawn from the WRC calendar, local enthusiasts decided to recreate the thrill and passion of the golden days. This gave birth to the East African Classic Safari Rally. The competition brings together rally cars built before 1974 to participate in an event that takes them from the Kenyan coast into the hinterland, across the borders into Uganda and Tanzania, and back to Kenya.

Tradition In line with tradition, this year’s East African Classic Safari Rally began at the iconic elephant tusks in the heart of Mombasa. The cars then headed for Mazeras and drove onwards to Mariakani and Mackinnon Road with a night stop at Amboseli Kilima Camp. The following day they drove from Amboseli to Loitokitok border post and crossed over into Tanzania. They overnighted at the Mount Meru Hotel in Arusha before leaving next day for the Namanga border post to cross back into Kenya and on to Kajiado, Ndialongoi, Seklengai, Lengisam, and then back to Amboseli for a rest day at the Ol Tukai Lodge. © Mcklein

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// Safari rally

The restart from Ol Tukai led the cars to the Lengisam regions of Selenkai, Mashuru, Olepolos, Kimuka Ntulele, Mai Mahiu and onward to a night stop at Naivasha Sopa Lodge. They then crossed the hills around Naivasha into Gilgil and on to Nakuru, Solai, Marigat, Loboi, into Kabarnet and then through Eldama Ravine to head back to Naivasha.

Night stop

The finish line was at the Sarova Whitesands Beach Resort & Spa, where legendary rally ace Björn Waldegård and his son Mathias powered their Porsche 911 to the finish line to claim the 2011 East African Classic Safari Rally after clocking more than 4,100 km though some of the most exciting and difficult terrain in Kenya and Tanzania. Patrick Njiru ended his self-imposed 10-year absence from rallying when he entered this year’s competition, to the delight of local fans. The Safari Rally as we know it began after a much quoted conversation between

The cars then proceeded to Emali, Makindu, Mtito Andei and the Sagala Hills and over to the night stop at Voi Wildlife Lodge as they headed for the last leg of the gruelling race though Shelemba, Wundanyi, Mwatate, Kisigau, Samburu, Matumbi, Majengo Mazeas and Nyali.

Real rallying meant jumping into a car and driving halfway across the continent and back, with the first car to cross the finish line being declared the winner Eric Cecil and his cousin Neil Vincent. Vincent, a true devotee of motor sport, is said to have declined to compete at the newly built race circuit at Langa Langa, saying it was boring competing at the same track over and over again. For him, real rallying meant jumping into a car and driving halfway across the continent and back, with the first car to cross the finish line being declared the winner.

Events in the UK opened doors for the start of the first-ever Safari Rally after the death of King George VI and the coronation of Queen Elizabeth II in June 1953. Known as the Coronation Rally, it was held to celebrate the coronation of the new Queen. The race started in Nairobi, went on to Lake Victoria and crossed over into Uganda and into Tanzania before returning to Kenya for the finish.

Huge interest

The East African Safari Rally was held every year thereafter, arousing huge interest from international rally federations. In 1957 the Paris-based Federation Internationale de l’Automobile (FIA) included the East African Rally in its international motor sport calendar. This meant that the date of the event was moved forward from the end of May to coincide with the Easter weekend so as not to conflict with other rally events in Europe. These formative stages laid the groundwork for one of the world’s most exciting and toughest rally competitions.

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// Technology

afrICa’s

answer to sIlICon ValleY… Denis Gathanju describes how incubation centres are putting Nairobi on the global map for ICT software and applications

enya scored a technology ‘first’ when it gave the world a device that allowed the transfer of money via mobile phone. Bright new opportunities for mobile banking were opened up when the M-Pesa platform was pioneered by regional mobile phone giant Safaricom. Today, this new technology has been embraced by mobile phone and banking giants across the world, especially in Nigeria, India, South Africa and Tanzania. The roll-out of M-Pesa opened a new door to innovation in Kenya’s information and communications technology (ICT) sector. This is not surprising, especially when you take into account a recent study by the United Nations Development Programme which rated Kenya the most technically savvy nation in Africa. ICT has been identified by the government as one of the key sectors that will drive the growth and development of

Kenya as a regional economic powerhouse and will help transform the nation into a middle-income economy by 2030. Under this vision, the Kenyan government is going ahead with plans to develop an ICT hub known as Konza City on the outskirts of Nairobi that will lead the technological revolution that Kenya and the whole of Africa so desperately need.

Innovation hub It is often said that a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. With that in mind, Nairobi has begun the long journey that will transform Kenya into an ICT giant full of innovation and new ideas. Welcome to iHub – Nairobi’s ICT innovation hub. This new centre has embraced the vision of growth and development offered by technology and innovation. Under this vision, Kenya is positioning itself to ride the wave of mobile phone applications and web development.

The iHub was founded by technology enthusiasts and local bloggers with a thirst for technology that can make our lives easier. The innovation centre also seeks to act as a link between technologists, innovators and investors. iHub offers a platform where emerging and talented software developers will converge to develop new IT solutions. When you look at local start-up ICT companies such as Software Technologies and Craft Silicon, which have pioneered software development in Kenya, you can see that inspiration is only one connection away. With the global software development industry valued at about US$460 billion per year, the Kenyan government is impressed by the technology revolution and wants to share in its benefits. To achieve this, the government has created a US$4 million local content generation grant that will help developers take their innovations to the next level.

Revised curricula Today, ICT is seen as an integral part of Kenyan society. Even the universities have revised their ICT curricula in order to help train the

next generation of ICT experts and innovators. The hope is that they will create consumer-led solutions that will help to meet the ICT needs of Kenya, Africa and beyond. Strathmore University in Nairobi has partnered with the regional mobile phone giant Safaricom to develop the Safaricom Academy. The new academy is expected to produce ICT talent that will take its business to new heights. Furthermore, Safaricom has partnered with the Chinese telecom equipment maker Huawei in a collaborative initiative with the University of Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta University of Agriculture & Technology and Moi University. Under this initiative, the three universities will review their ICT curricula with a view to matching the current market needs of this sector.

Partnership The partnership between technology firms and centres of learning has been going on for three years and is expected to benefit students and lecturers from the three universities through training workshops at Huawei’s facility

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// Technology

in Mombasa Road, Nairobi. Safaricom will not only provide students with hands-on job training experience in the latest GSM technology, but will also provide them with a market for local mobile software applications. Safaricom will also help market the mobile software applications developed by the students through the SafaricomLive portal in a revenuesharing deal. Nairobi University has also partnered with leading handset maker Nokia to develop a User Experience unit at the university under Nokia’s Research and Subcontracting Laboratory. Nokia is also helping promote Afro Hot and Wazzup, two local applications on its Ovi Store. These applications were developed by two students at the University of Nairobi. Afro Hot is a vanity application that rates how ‘hot’ you are, while Wazzup keeps track of what is happening in Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania and Mozambique. Nokia recently awarded US$1 million to Virtual City, a Kenyan-based technology firm, in a worldwide competition for innovative applications. The trend has not escaped global ICT giants, with Google, Microsoft and HP all setting up bases in Nairobi. Google recently launched Android Market in Kenya, a distribution platform that allows developers to sell their applications for use on the Android platform. One of the Kenya’s biggest software innovation success stories to date is Ushahidi, an open-source platform developed in the aftermath of the disputed

2007 presidential elections that brought Kenya to the brink of disaster. The application uses the concept of ‘crowd sourcing’, which involves outsourcing tasks traditionally performed by an employee or contractor to a large group of people or community (a ‘crowd’), through an open call. The application has been used successfully in various places such as the recent general elections in Zambia and in Haiti after the earthquake. Local internet service provider Wananchi Online has wired the iHub with a fibre optic cable to provide internet connection, while Google brings ICT experts to help train innovators and provides Android phones to assist in developing mobile applications. Global software giant Microsoft donated a server, while leading handset maker Nokia helps sponsor the developers’ day.

mental organisations or any other organisation that is looking to enhance its M-Pesa transactions. Pay.Zunguka is another payment gateway and aggregator that has been developed by Symbiotic Media. This application allows merchants, developers and content providers to monetise their work. Yet another application is PesaPal, an internet-based mobile payment gateway developed by Verviant, which is helping to bridge the divide between mobile and electronic payment. Verviant has also developed SchoolPay, a mobile payment platform that enables parents to pay school fees from a range of mobile money transfer services such as Safaricom’s M-Pesa, Airtel’s Money and Orange Money from Telkom Kenya.

With Kenya being the first country in the world to develop a mobile money transfer platform when Safaricom first launched M-Pesa in 2007, there is a huge value in mobile transactions and most innovators are working on applications that can integrate mobile payment systems. Since the launch of M-Pesa in 2007 the service has grown to include more than 12 million users and has so far handled mobile money transactions worth over KES 600 million (US$7.06 million). The local mobile software application industry may still be in infancy, but already it has attracted over 3,000 developers at various incubation centres in Nairobi including iHub, L-Lab, KeKobi and Nai Lab.

Mobile payment gateways Among new applications developed at iHub is a payment gateway by Zege Technologies. Zege (Swahili for ‘concrete’) is currently developing a mobile phone application that helps integrate bank accounts to mobile service transfer platforms such as M-Pesa from Safaricom. The application is programmed to integrate with any financial management system such as Pesa Pap from Family Bank, KCB Connect from Kenya Commercial Bank and M-Kesho from Equity Bank. It can also integrate with systems from micro-finance institutions, non-govern-

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THAI RESTAURANT OFFERS A

UNIQUE DINING

EXPERIENCE

www.fly540.com

// Thai header Chi

he dining experience in Nairobi is ever-changing. And with the change of the dining scene, the experience is getting better and tastier. With a growing number of expatriates working in Nairobi and rising incomes being enjoyed by many, not to mention peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s desire to go out and experience new foods and tastes, the dining experience in Nairobi couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be better. I had the pleasure of sampling one of the finest eating places in Nairobi, the Thai Chi Restaurant at the Sarova Stanley. Although the restaurant has been in operation for some time now, I must say the dining experience offered here is totally new. The Thai theme of this restaurant is reflected in the decor. At the entrance, a large statue of Buddha welcomes guests into the rest area, which is tastefully decorated in Thai style. Enter the restaurant and, behold, a new world awaits you. The strong smell of scented candles and the soft Thai music in the background help create a relaxing environment. The main restaurant has a blend of modern and traditional Thai styles, with the dining area being divided into three levels. The elevated side is a great way to experience Thai eating styles because of the Chiang Mai (sitting) style that is adopted at these table settings. Chiang Mai is an intimate style of dining in which diners sit on padded floor cush-

ions by the side of sunken dining tables. The middle and left section of the dining area adopts the more traditional Western style of dining. However, the tables are distinctively Thai. The walls of the restaurant feature teak board markings as well as traditional Thai silk panelling. The Chiang Mai setting is not only recommended for family and friends groupings, but is also ideal for couples, offering the preamble of a lovely romantic evening.

Candlelight Service in the Chiang Mai dining area is performed with the waitress kneeling while dinner is served by candlelight with traditional music playing softly in the background, all helping to create a romantic mood. My date and I found this an unexpected and wonderful experience. What we loved about this dining set-up was the near exclusivity and privacy from the main restaurant as we ate while seated on the floor. It feels as if you are in a private restaurant just for two people.

and bitter. With its emphasis on lightly prepared dishes with strong aromatic components, this type of cuisine is balanced and healthy with detailed variety. Another unique aspect of Thai cuisine is the social factor. While dining out with friends or family, an act of bonding takes place as guests eat from a variety of dishes, thus enhancing the overall experience for each guest. My date and I wanted this experience to last. The dining and service are neither hurried nor delayed unnecessarily. Every-

What we loved about this dining set-up was the near exclusivity and privacy from the main restaurant as we ate What makes the Thai Chi Restaurant truly authentic, however, is not only the interior decor and Thai cultural symbols that include the Buddha, dragons, water bodies and sloping roofs with dragonhead supports; it is the food that is the chief attraction for lovers of fine dining. This is authentic Thai cuisine, with some of the ingredients imported from Thailand. The restaurant has three top-notch Thai chefs assisted by a team of highly trained support staff. The menu is written in Thai, with English translations, and knowledgeable waiters and waitresses are on hand to advise and make recommendations. Thai cuisine is known around the world for including at least five fundamental tastes in every dish: hot (spicy), sour, sweet, salty

thing seems to work perfectly and you easily lose track of time. The experience we had was simply outstanding and helped to underline what fine dining should be.

Reservation Located on the first floor of the Sarova Stanley Hotel in the heart of Nairobi, the Thai Chi Restaurant is open not only to hotel guests but also to anyone wishing to sample Thai cuisine. The restaurant opens at noon for lunch and at 7 pm for dinner. It is advisable to call ahead and reserve your table to avoid disappointment. No wonder the Thai Ambassador in Nairobi has described the Thai Chi Restaurant as the only truly authentic Thai restaurant in the region.

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one-MIllIonth CUstoMer

PIERINA GETS A PLEASANT SURPRISE

ierina Redler, director of service learning and activities at the International School of Kenya, was the lucky winner of KES 1 million at the fifth anniversary and millionth passenger celebrations of Fly540. The surprise announcement was made by Don Smith, chief executive of Fly540, at the airline’s check-in area at Unit 3 of Jomo Kenyatta International Airport. Pierina Redler, who had just checked in and was ready to board her flight to Lamu, leaped up and down with excitement as she was presented with a cheque for KES 1 million. Speaking at JKIA, Don Smith said: “This November marks the fifth anniversary of Fly540 and the realisation that we will carry our one-millionth passenger in the same month inspired us to celebrate this landmark in the airline’s history by rewarding a customer with a special gift of one million shillings. “In November 2006 Fly540 opened for business with the promise of providing value-for-money flights. The Nairobi to Mombasa route was chosen to offer daily flights for local and overseas business and holiday travellers. A combi-

// Traveller header wins

nation of reliability and low fares brought Fly540 instant popularity.”

Pierina Redler, who had just checked in and was ready to board her flight to Lamu, leaped up and down with excitement

Pierina Redler said: “I will use the money to buy textbooks for students at Brighter Star Girls Secondary School in Lamu and install cupboards and lockers. These pupils learn in very difficult circumstances without books and I am happy I will to use my winnings to help them.”

Duties She went on: “My duties at the International School of Kenya include organising service learning programmes where our students visit public schools in Kangemi, Dagoretti, Kiambu, Gachie, Mombasa and Lamu in which children learn from each other through active participation. The aim is to build strong community relationships. We also have environmental projects and we have been planting trees at Karura Forest and helping to clean and feed animals at KSPCA.” Fly540 commenced operations in November 2006 with a daily flight between Nairobi and Mombasa for local and overseas business and holiday travellers. The airline’s valuefor-money flights won instant popularity and it now has 18 destinations in Kenya with regional services to Bujumbura, Dar es Salaam, Entebbe, Juba, Kilimanjaro, Manyara, Mwanza, Serengeti and Zanzibar. Tickets for the airline’s destinations are available from travel agents and from the Fly540 offices at JKIA, Wilson Airport, Laico Regency and ABC Place. Full information on fares and services can be obtained from the airline’s website (www.fly540.com). Passengers can book flights online and pay via M-Pesa.

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Kitengela //

t was a tricky journey and a difficult place to find. In fact, so tricky and difficult that it took me two attempts to get there. My first try ended in failure, thanks in part to protesting students (and they did look pretty scary) at the Multimedia University College on Magadi Road who managed to close the highway for several hours as rocks (students) and teargas (police) mixed to create an unpleasant cocktail. Some days later on my second trip and just when the tarmac ran out beyond the Africa Nazarene University in Ongata Rongai, the heavens opened, instantly transforming the rough dirt road into a sticky mudbath and creating problems for anyone like me who didn’t own a fancy 4x4.

Futuristic

Creating works of art? It’s a lot of hot air… By Gary Gimson

www.fly540.com

Sitting helplessly in the car awaiting an umbrella, I glanced out at my damp and bedraggled surroundings. It looked as if I had reached some futuristic scrapyard rather than the headquarters of one of the best-known of Kenya’s home-grown brands. Yet I had arrived at Anselm Kitengela Hot Glass. You can visit the company’s stores at The Village Market, Junction or Westgate and, of course, I could easily have bought a set of goblets and saved myself two epic journeys to the fringes of Nairobi National Park. But I had chosen to travel out of town to see where Anselm Croze and his team actually blow the glass.

The first question I asked the immediately engaging Anselm – unconnected with glass blowing – was: “Where did you get a crazy first name like Anselm?” Clearly, it’s unusual; but it’s one that apparently dates back hundreds of years. For the record, a St Anselm was Archbishop of Canterbury from 1093 to 1109, so that answers that one. Anselm has been blowing glass here since 1979 in what was, and still is, the back of beyond. He hails from a long line of artists. Glass blowing seems an esoteric art and one that is, perhaps, more commercial than artistic. But Anselm says: “I was captivated by the idea that there was more to things than just making glass flat.”

when Anselm needs to buy less oil and gas. The company will continue to make all its own tools and furniture and build its own workshops and furnaces. All packaging material is also recycled. “We’ve being doing this long before it became fashionable – out of necessity, if nothing else,” admits Anselm. After blowing the glass, it’s time to sell what has been created. Anselm explains: “We offer a large range of products;

It is always a pleasure to meet a master craftsman who is truly passionate about his work So, here, glass making is an art; handmade and with each item unique, so that no two glasses are alike – even, and rather puzzlingly, when they are supposed to be part of a set. Anselm explains: “It’s hard to blow glass and you need both the infrastructure and the passion. Instead, there is gratification and beautiful materials with which to work. It really is magic stuff.” Anselm only works with recycled glass as a raw material. He calls it a “stern mistress” and he then harnesses his ecocredentials to the fact that steam for the furnace is generated from used engine oil. The steam is another unusual and probably unique aspect of the operation as nowhere else is this method used to fire the furnaces.

pretty much all of it is designed in-house. But we are also customer-driven and we will specially make items.” These customers are generally high-end and include kings and queens, diplomats, embassy staff, United Nations employees and, of course, tourists.

Anselm Kitengela Hot Glass? For Anselm, it’s likely to be more teaching as well as more artwork and public art. “I like big pieces,” says Anselm. For example, in 2011 he finished a 3.5 metre high, 1.2 tonne chandelier that has been hanging at the Safaricom headquarters on Nairobi’s Waiyaki Way. So, as it turned out, the tricky journey was well worth it. And in a material world, it is always a pleasure to meet a master craftsman who is truly passionate about his work.

Anselm also wants to move on: “We don’t want to be stale but we do want to maintain our classics while adding new colours and techniques.” New designers from outside are welcome and he likes to prove that he is not just a one-man band. “For example, we have held workshops which resulted in some nice collaborations and cross-pollination.”

Fragile

Furnaces have a lifespan. This one has been working more or less continuously for over 12 years. Anselm says: “We have two spares ready when the day comes when it will no longer works. Our steam system is unique, so there are there are no manuals if it goes wrong.

It would be natural to assume that a fragile product such as glass would be difficult to ship. Anselm says: “If our glass can make it out of the factory and across the road to Ongata Rongai then it can make it anywhere.” Clearly, Kitengela glass is solid stuff.

The main electrical power supply is inching closer, so the day will soon come

After more than 30 years of glass blowing, what does the future hold for

Kitengela Hot Glass Email: office@kitengela.com www.anselmcroze.com

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l i

b b a

fran

li goferica br

ca of E a s t A

he expansion of the East African Community (EAC) from a confederation of three member states to the current five has been hailed as a positive step towards the enhancement of trade and industry between member states. And when you add the formulation of a Customs union and talks of further integration of partner states into a political federation and the adoption of a common East African currency by June 2012, it makes the creation of a Eurozone-like confederation in East Africa a real possibility. While the people of Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda and Burundi dream of political and economic harmony under an East African Union, it is worth considering some of the driving factors towards the

key role in bringing about the integration of the partner states. Swahili is the national language of Kenya, Uganda, mainland Tanzania and Zanzibar, with over 100 million speakers across East Africa. It is also widely spoken and understood in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). This goes a long way towards establishing Swahili as one of the main binding factors for the region and its people. The language is widely used in Tanzania and to a lesser extent in Kenya.

Integration In the recent past Uganda has added Swahili studies to its school curricula. The aim is to foster regional integration and co-operation, with the language as one

Swahili language continues to play a key role in bringing about the integration of the partner states of the key cementing factors. In Kenya, realisation of this union. One of them is the history of the East African people, who coexisted for many years until the demarcation of Africa by major European powers following the Berlin Conference of 1884. While cultural and historical ties have brought East Africans together, it is the Swahili language that continues to play a

www.fly540.com

Sw a Lin hi g

o l ke s g g s in

the language is studied from primary to high school levels, while in Tanzania the medium of instruction in all subjects from Standard I to VII is Swahili. Grammatically, Swahili can trace its origin to the Bantu family of languages which covers both eastern and southern Africa except for Namibia. Swahili is in a process of constant development and in modern

times new words have been added to the language, derived from various fields of study including the sciences, technology, medicine, politics and economics.

Origins In Tanzania, the National Swahili Council (Baraza la Kiswahili la Tanzania or Bakita) is tasked with standardising these new terms. The Bakita first determines Swahili word equivalents before extending its search for new technical terms in other Bantu and non-Bantu languages. New terms are coined from other languages such as English and Arabic in such a way that they follow Swahili syntax and phonology. Swahili was widely used by early Arab visitors to the East Coast of Africa and the name Swahili is derived from the Arabic word for â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;coastâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. Eventually, the name was applied to inhabitants of the East Coast of Africa and their language. Swahili is an old language. It was first mentioned in an early document found in Alexandria, Egypt. Written in Greek in the second century, the document stated that merchants visiting the East African coast from Arabia used the language to communicate with local people. Over time, Swahili has interacted with languages in other regions such as the Comoros Islands and Madagascar and, further away, the United Arab Emirates and Oman. The spread of Swahili to these regions was driven mainly by trade and

// Swahili

commerce and migration. The language has continued to spread to countries such as Uganda, the DRC, Mozambique, the Central African Republic, Rwanda and Burundi. Apart from trade and migration, Christian missionaries contributed to the spread of Swahili, especially in the hinterland, when they used the language to teach the Gospel to the native people. As Christianity gained ground, colonisation set in and the colonial authorities contributed further to the development of the language when they standardised Swahili using the Unguja dialect. Unguja was widely used in Zanzibar, at that time the centre of regional trade and commerce on the East African Coast.

Malaika The spread of Swahili to other African countries came during the clamour for independence in the 1960s. Soon after Tanzania gained its independence, the then president, Mwalimu Julius Kambarage Nyerere, helped set up liberation training camps within its borders.

The camps housed freedom fighters from as far away as Mozambique, Angola, South Africa and Zimbabwe. This led to a gradual spread of the language into southern African countries.

And when the late Kenyan musician Fadhili Williams sang his popular Malaika song, the whole world jumped on the Swahili bandwagon. Malaika is Swahili for ‘angel’. This launched Swahili into

Swahili is spreading into other regions across Africa and beyond to become an international language Today, Swahili is spreading into other regions across Africa and beyond to become an international language. Today, universities in North America and Europe offer Swahili as a degree course. It is also one of the major languages of broadcasting around the world, used by such organisations as the BBC, Voice of America, China Central Television, Radio China International, Radio Tehran International, Radio Moscow International, Radio Japan International, and Deutschewelle among many others. This has led to Swahili words and phrases being used across the world. For instance, ‘safari’ is now an internationally recognised word for ‘journey’.

the world of performing arts, with the late Michael Jackson, for example, using Swahili words and phrases in his hit song ‘Liberian Girl’. Other musicians who have used Swahili words in their songs include Lionel Richie from USA, Angelique Kidjo from Benin and the late Brenda Fassie from South Africa. It all helps to underline the role of Swahili not only in fostering trade and commerce in Africa and across the world, but in helping to build and shape new relationships through music and education.

// Hillcrest

STUDENTS MAKE A ‘BEELINE’ FOR TURKANA

– THANKS TO FLY540 a s students at Hillcrest Secondary School, we have a deep interest in biology and environmental studies. That’s why three of us, Elleni, Tashi and Nekesa, decided to explore the harsh and beautiful landscapes of Turkana with entomologist Dr Dino Martins. Right on schedule, we were welcomed by the Fly540 air hostess on to the de Havilland DHC-8. The ﬂight was smooth and the stopover at Kitale brief and efficient as new passengers took their seats. We arrived on time at the hot and windy airport of Lodwar, where we were greeted by Dr Martins and began our journey of research. Some might ask what we were doing in such an odd part of Kenya. However, no sooner had we stepped out onto the

some people might question what we were doing in such an odd part of kenya

dusty plain than we were introduced to the world of bees, butterflies, wasps and other species. On a newly developed farm, created by Ikal Angelei, we encountered a variety of species ranging from stingless bees, which were attracted to our sweat, to carpenter bees, busy pollinating the aubergine crops, to leafcutter bees, which we saw slicing circles of capsicum leaves for their hives.

Discovery We made a tentative attempt to catch and transfer them from net to vial for closer inspection in the laboratory, knowing that, unlike the common honey bee, these bees can sting repetitively. We quickly accepted an invitation to work with the anthropology students out in the Turkana Basin Institute, where the very foundations of evolutionary discovery were at our fingertips. Working on sites dated back some 13 million years, we became accustomed to recognising the different types of fragmented bones with the help of Meave Leakey and Rene Bobe. Not only were we able to see first-hand evidence of the creatures that once roamed Turkana, but we took an active part in some of the extraordinary projects there.

Turkana is a hot, dry area – something we learned the instant we left the cool interior of the aircraft and met the hot winds. On our second day, we witnessed the second rainfall in over a year and a half. Although it lasted only about 10 minutes, it led to a phenomenal influx of insects. Our next challenge, therefore, was to catch a few of the freshly hatched butterflies to add to Dino’s ever-growing specimen database. We followed this up next day by catching butterflies on another site, about an hour from the institute, where we caught examples of the same species for cross-referencing and DNA comparison.

thank-you It was with great sadness that we left the Turkana Basin Institute and headed back to Nairobi. However, we thoroughly enjoyed this trip and look forward to future expeditions with Dino to different parts of Kenya. We would like to say a big thank-you to Dino and the whole team at TBI for hosting us and making it an exceptional experience, and also to Fly540, who made this trip safe, comfortable and very possible.

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// Wine festival

Wine festival is a ‘first’ for

Kampala

he growing appreciation of quality wines among Ugandans has led to Kampala hosting its first wine festival.

Uganda. The festival attracted the chief executives of state and private corporations as well as diplomats and top business people from Kampala.

This prestigious festival was held at the majestic Kampala Serena Hotel and organisers say it will be an annual event in the Ugandan social calendar.

Wine is becoming ever more popular in Uganda. Festival organisers invited some of the best wine-makers to share their knowledge with the enthusiasts, thus ensuring that guests were kept well informed about the various wines they consumed.

The wine festival was sponsored by South African Airlines. Other sponsors included Kampala Serena Hotel, MTN Uganda and Stanbic Bank.

Appreciation As well as showing an appreciation of good wine, the event was intended to help various charitable organisations in

On hand to share their knowledge were Gregory Leymarie, the brains behind Château Beauchêne, the world’s fastest selling wine; Richard Duckett, of Franschhoek Cellar; Gunther Kellerman, of Durbanville Hills and Two Oceans; Kobus Gerber, of Drostdy Hof; and Rudiger Gretschel, of Robertson Winery.

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// Handbags

A Kenyan handbag with a unique appeal

aybe there is something of a trend emerging here as locally sourced and high-end Kenya-made goods continue to attract a following, especially among tourists. Kenya is justly proud of internationally recognised brands such as Kikoy, Kazuri Beads, Sandstorm and Kitengela Glass, all beautifully crafted, hand-made and refreshingly expensive items, mostly targeted mostly at an international clientele. Now there’s a new and very small kid on the block. Kibeti Designs is a name that

So what is the thinking here? In essence, Kibeti aims to bring bespoke tailoring and handbag design to the mid-market. Joan says: “Leather goods in Kenya are very expensive. People here want to own nice bags but just don’t have the money to do so. We aim to change things.” She adds: “All our bags are 100 per cent leather and every design unique. Even if the cut is similar, then the beadwork would be entirely different.” Joan draws her inspiration from what is fashionable and then tries to create a bag that is both comfortable and practical.

Kibeti aims to bring bespoke tailoring and handbag design to the mid-market few will have heard, at least for now, but the brand plans to place itself alongside the better known and more established labels that now grace Nairobi’s fanciest shopping malls. Kibeti (the Kiswahili word for ‘bag’) adds a new dimension to the clothing, beadwork, travel accessories and glassware market offered by these well-known brands. But Kibeti has a unique selling point; each of its handbags is individually styled. So there is no question of turning up at work or, more distressingly, at a function to find – horror of horrors – that another woman has the same handbag. Kibeti is still young. Set up only in April last year, it is the brainchild of Joan Ntinga-Maitha, who conceptualises, designs and creates each handbag.

A Kibera-based leather craftsman then beavers away to make the bag. He also advises Joan on what is possible and not possible; reining in, perhaps, some of her more improbable ideas. The craftsman is assisted by others who produce the beadwork and help with the stitching. It takes three people three to four days to make just one bag.

at between KES 5,000 and KES 8,500 But who is buying Kibeti’s bags? Unsurprisingly, it is young ladies and office executives; those who are looking for something that is both classy and casual; a bag that can be used during the day for work but also in the evening. Kibeti is 100 per cent Kenyan-owned and uses only Kenya-sourced products for its bags. In addition, and as part of Kibeti’s original concept, a certain percentage of each sale is set aside to help women located in the Machakos area. In addition to handbags, Kibeti makes leather belts and in 2012 will start manufacturing laptop and clutch bags while also producing tourist-type items such as fly whisks. In something of a novel departure, Joan now plans to sell honey from rural areas under the Kibeti name.

Available For the moment, most of Kibeti bags are sold on-line to Kenya-based buyers. More recently, Joan’s bags have been available from Spinner’s Web on Peponi Road in Nairobi. Plans for 2012 include the opening of Kibeti’s own shop space. Depending on size and the intricacy and complexity of the beadwork, bags retail

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Network //

THE FLY540

NETWORK

oVEr 30 DEstinations throughout East africa

AFRICAS

COST AIR L

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with MorE coMing VEry soon

AT: E N m NLI o O c . K 0 BOO ly54

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afric a

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SOUTH SUDAN JUBA

LODWAR

UGANDA KITALE KAKAMEGA ENTEBBE

ELDORET

KENYA NANYUKI MERU

KISUMU

NAIROBI MASAI MARA LAMU

MWANZA KILIMANJARO

MALINDI VIPINGO MOMBASA UKUNDA

TANZANIA DAR ES SALAAM

ZANZIBAR

MTWARA

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Lesley Sercombe //

LESLEY SERCOMBE

thE acE of thoroughbrED racing in kEnya by roselyne omondi-ogao

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for more than to two decades lesley Sercombe, Kenya’s undisputed top female jockey, has risked life and limb to earn her place in the country’s horse-racing lore. here, she talks about her journey in the extremely competitive, male-dominated world of thoroughbred horse racing

o serious discussion of horse racing in Kenya is complete without mentioning Lesley Sercombe. Her parents, John and Patsy Sercombe, are accomplished vets. Her mother is reputed to be one of the best horse trainers in the country and her father is a director of the Jockey Club of Kenya. Her siblings, Vicky and Linda Thorpe – her identical twin sister – also share this love of equestrianism. So you could say that growing up in a house predisposed to horses has shaped her destiny. Lesley agrees. “I can’t get horses out of my blood,” she says. “I’m gifted with horse sense and I can read and understand horses easily.” She seems to have understood, even at a young age, that the best riders in the world have a close bond with the horses they race. Her exceptional ability to understand horses in general, and thoroughbreds in particular, has allowed her to win nine championships in the past two decades. It also confirms that not all horse enthusiasts can become successful jockeys. In fact, the few riders who do make the grade – mostly men – often have short careers. Lesley, the best jockey of the 2010/2011 season, says: “My journey started when I was a child. I must have been on a saddle around the age of three years already.” By the time she was 13, Lesley knew, without a shadow of doubt, that she would become a jockey. “Although I had been around horses for a few years, I suddenly felt something that

a day aT The raceS want to go to the races soon? the Jockey club of kenya has published its 2012 fixture list. february 5, 12, 19, 26 (fillies) March 4, 11, 18 25 april 1, 8, 15, 22, 29

I had never felt before. I felt at one with the horses – that the horses understood me as much as I understood them.” She finished her A-levels and then something happened that put her firmly on the path of professional jockeying. “I was getting ready to start a degree course in veterinary science at the University of Nairobi, in the early 1990s, when the university was hit by what seemed to be unending waves of student protests and unrests,” says Lesley. “The university was closed indefinitely for uncertain periods. It was hard to get started and to continue with all the uncertainty.” She decided to focus her time and energy on the one constant in her life: horses. She began riding competitively and made good progress. “I started well and became very good at it,” she recalls. “It wasn’t long before I was racing full-time.” She also began paying more attention to her fitness in order to improve her performance.

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// Lesley Sercombe

Lesley sees being a jockey as both an art and a science and knows that the winning horse is only part of the equation. The other part is a good jockey who, among other things, is agile, quickwitted, a team player, a split-second thinker and someone in tune with their horse sense. Jockeys must also be master strategists, ready to execute Plan B if Plan A fails, throughout the race. Then there is a good trainer and a good team. “My team is made up of my mother and trainer, my adopted big brother Steve Njuguna, plus horse owners and handlers,” says Lesley.

Thorny roses That there are few accomplished female jockeys is not news to Lesley. Sometimes she has to deal with odd looks or unkind comments about her femininity. Several

At other times her ability to move has been compromised by injury. “Injuries are inevitable. I have suffered direct hits to my face and have broken my nose and many bones. One of the worst injuries was breaking my tibia. These kind of injuries can deal huge dents into the psychology of any rider as recovery can be nerve-racking and tedious.” At such times, Lesley really appreciates her training club, trainer and physiotherapists. “The Impala Club Gymnasium is a great place for both fitness training and rehabilitation,” she says. “Trainer Zoe Gibbs and Petrina Spenser-Walker, a physiotherapist, have helped me get where I am today.” Jockeys must be light because the racing authorities set weight limits for riders and their horses. Lesley, who stands

I’m gifted with horse sense and I can read and understand horses easily years ago she travelled to India for four months at the invitation of sports enthusiast Dr Vijay Mallya. “Indians are very good horsemen and are extremely good at speed work,” she says. “But I was the only woman riding. The locals reacted in very interesting ways, giving an odd look here and there because they had never seen a professional female jockey before.” Of her racing experience in Kenya, she says: “Of course, there are many men who don’t like the fact that I’m this successful at ‘their’ sport.” There have been slurs on her femininity, but she tries not to take these personally.

to be ready to put in the time and be committed to the sport.” Riders generally ride for a fee, which is paid whether or not the horse earns any prize money in a given race. They also receive part of the prize money if the horses win. Other possibilities in the racing world include showjumping, horse training, dressage, steeplechase and polo. Lesley tried polo but gave it up after a shoulder injury.

taller than most jockeys, says: “I can’t be comfortable with body weight above 55 kg, so I have to balance my nutrition needs with those of my training programmes in order to control a surging horse successfully.”

She says she will continue racing for as long as is possible. “I will stop when I start feeling fear. Until then I will be working on winning another championship. After that I may become a licensed elite horse trainer, or focus on jockey training to help other jockeys who want to improve their fitness levels.”

The challenge for a jockey is to control a fast-moving horse weighing over 500 kg and win. Lesley usually races in the 1,000 metre, 1,200 metre and 1,400 metre categories.

Facts about Lesley

Like other successful athletes, Lesley has certain rituals before and after each race. She prays and meditates and rides 10 to 12 horses every day. “Just before a race I like to play my favourite electronic dance music while walking on the racetrack. I also make sure I dress smartly after a race and hang out with horse owners and friends.”

Living off horses Most jockeys are self-employed, and Lesley says Kenya is a good place for upcoming jockeys to hone their skills and earn a decent living. “Anywhere is a good place, really, as long as you start early – say, 14 or 15 years. You also have

• Lesley is fond of her showjumper, Harry Potter, who holds the 1,000 metre sprint record. She also has dogs and a cat. • She describes her mother as “the best trainer” and her father as “my rock, the quiet yet strong force behind my success”. • Lesley also enjoys running. In fact, she ran the Mara Marathon in November 2011.

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Sister Mary’s lifeline of hope

CATHoLIC MISSIonArY SEEKS To EMPoWEr MAASAI GIrLS THrouGH EDuCATIon 32

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// Emusoi

Every year an estimated 2 million girls around the world are at risk of undergoing the removal of part or all of their genitalia, a procedure referred to as female genital mutilation (FGM), female circumcision or female genital cutting. Tanzania is one of 28 countries in Africa where FGM is widely practised. The government estimates that 32 per cent of women aged between15 and 49 in over half the countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s districts have undergone FGM Health officials say prevalence rates indicate that FGM is highest among the Maasai people at 89 per cent with young girls, some as young as six, undergoing the procedure and later being into forced early marriages as they are deemed by the community to be adults. 540 Contributing Editor Denis Gathanju recently visited a rescue and rehabilitation centre for young Maasai girls in Arusha, where an American missionary is looking to change the girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives by empowering them through education.

t only 15 years of age, Susana Mathayo still had a whole life ahead of her, but she wanted to pursue her education, break from the cycle of poverty and make a better life for herself. With the help of a friend, she escaped to Arusha and found sanctuary in the hands of Sister Mary Vertucci, a dedicated Catholic missionary who has helping to empower young Maasai girls like Susana by providing them with a second shot at life through education.

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// Emusoi

Sister Vertucci is awarded with a goat by elders from the Maasai community for her efforts to educate their girls

“Being able to walk along with them on a journey of self-discovery is almost like being a midwife and I am able to not only help impart knowledge to them, but also the gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ,” says Sister Mary.

Childhood Although she has lived in Tanzania since the age of 25, Sister Mary’s work is rooted in her childhood in New Jersey. “I had a burning desire to be a missionary since I was in Grade 6 or 7,” she says. She first had this call at grade school and then a high school teacher introduced her to the Maryknoll Congregation. “From the teachings and my own religious beliefs, it felt just right and I knew this was what I wanted to do, she says. “I felt I was ready for the adventure and I never looked back.” Sister Mary also received moral support and encouragement from her deeply religious Catholic family.

“I found the greatest encouragement from my mother, who in spite of being happily married did not encourage us to

young Maasai girls escape from FGM and early forced marriages, she found herself at loggerheads with the Maasai

‘Being able to walk along with them on a journey of self-discovery is almost like being a midwife and I am able to not only help impart knowledge, but also the gospel of our Lord Jesus Christ’ get married,” she says. “Her desire was to see us happy and she went out of her way to encourage us in whatever we set our minds to.”

Challenging Sister Mary first came to Tanzania as an English and chemistry teacher 25 years ago, but the challenges she encountered outside of the classroom were greater than those within it. Apart from the huge cultural challenges, the illiteracy levels in this impoverished country were high. When she took it upon herself to help

community, many of whom deemed her an enemy of their cultural traditions. Over the years, however, her work is bearing fruit and she can hold her head high, knowing that she is making a difference. Her congregation had started working with the Maasai, a semi-nomadic people who rely mostly on herding cattle. Because of their reluctance to educate girls and their cultural traditions – including early marriage, polygamy, and FGM – the communities were lagging behind.

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// Emusoi header

In conversation… Sister Mary Vertucci Founder and director, Emusoi Centre, Arusha, Tanzania Favourite scriptures: Psalm 41: “As the deer longs for running water, so my heart longs for you.” I am also moved by the New Testament scriptures that say: “Did not our hearts burn with fire when we heard him speaking?” I feel the power of Jesus Christ burn like a fire in my heart. President Bush receives a traditional Maasai gift while he visited the centre

“I felt that something needed to be done to change this,” says Sister Mary. “According to the Maasai culture, girls are held as both liabilities and assets and are therefore not encouraged to finish school because they will be part of another family when married.” Sister Mary started the Emusoi Centre, where up to 50 girls a year – including those who have run away from home to avoid forced marriages – receive the spiritual, emotional, and academic support to pursue their studies.

Sourcing funds Running the centre is not easy. Apart from being considered an enemy to the Maasai culture, Sister Mary’s greatest challenge is sourcing funds to run the centre. “We need about $450,000 every year to run the centre and to pay school fees” she says.

Delivering a new tomorrow “The desire to become a missionary still burns in my heart,” says Sister Mary, although she is now thinking of handing over the centre to someone else to run. She doesn’t know what she will do next, but the community and people at Emusoi will always remain close to her heart, as will its mission.

Woman who has inspired me most: My mother, Adelaide Vertucci. She is now 92 and has come here four times. Everyone in our family calls her a saint because of her kindness and gentleness. She has been a great source of encouragement to me and she has always believed in me. She is my hero.

What gives you sleepless nights? Wondering how I am going to help these girls. It takes about TZS 1 million to educate one girl and US$ 450,000 to run the centre for one year. I have had to turn away many girls because of the limited funding we get from well-wishers.

What wouldn’t you do without? The support of my congregation. They are the shoulder I cry on when things are tough. I also wouldn’t live without the people at Emusoi. To me, they are family. They are the ones that I can depend on when the going gets tough.

What has been the biggest moment at Emusoi? The visit by President George W. Bush and his wife Laura in 2008. The girls were not intimidated by his presence. In fact, they never knew who President Bush was, as most of the girls were fresh from the villages. They made a rallying presentation to him that called for his support to empower the girl child through education. Mrs Bush was sympathetic. They donated mosquito nets and books. Overall, we were happy that the President of the United States recognised us and honoured us with a visit. President Bush and his wife Laura Bush pay a visit at the Emusoi Centre

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Matatu culture in Nairobi

The world’s loudest, scariest bus ride By Denis Gathanju

airobi, the bustling administrative and commercial capital of Kenya, has many unique features. For example, it is the only capital city in the world to have a national park within its boundaries and the only Third World city to contain the global headquarters of a major United Nations agency. But while these traits are unique, there is something else that seems to exist only in Nairobi. Having travelled to various capitals in Africa, the Middle East and Europe, I must say that the public transport systems are a great way of experiencing each destination and its local culture. While public transport in Europe is largely organised, it is more chaotic in some Middle Eastern capitals – and absolutely shambolic in most African capitals. Nairobi is no exception, the only difference being that, in Nairobi, it is a culture.

Public transport in Nairobi is somewhere between a necessity and an insanity. For many Nairobians, it long ago ceased to be a mode of transport from one corner of the city to the next. Today, it has become a culture. As in most African cities, the most popular mode of transport is the 14-seater minivan public taxi. But the similarity ends there when it comes to Nairobi.

While public transport in Europe is largely organised, it is more chaotic in some Middle Eastern capitals – and absolutely shambolic in most African capitals Known as matatus, the minivans in Nairobi are the embodiment of madness on the roads for many motorists and a saviour to the everyday Nairobian. For many Nairobians, the matatu arouses admiration and disgust in equal measure.

When a French journalist first visited Kenya a few years ago and was asked about her experience, she spoke of its beauty and hospitable people. But she said she was determined to do one thing – drive a matatu. The awestruck Frenchwoman could not hide her admiration for the minivan.

Skills When she got behind the wheel of one of the matatus on the Starehe to city centre route, her driving skills were stretched to the limit. Accustomed to the orderly streets of Paris, she was thrown into a wild jungle of chaos and a carefree attitude to traffic rules. She quickly learned the ropes, however, and was soon driving at breakneck speed, stopping in the middle of the road to pick up and drop off passengers and making unexpected turns without indicating. While this was a new experience for the French visitor, the local drivers and touts do this for a living. Almost every motorist

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// Matatus

in Nairobi has a tale to tell about some, often nasty, experience with matatus and their crews. In downtown Nairobi, the matatus are conspicuous with their bright, flashy colours, bearing huge signs and messages on their sides and often decorated with pictures of soccer and basketball stars like David Beckham, Cristiano Ronaldo, Pelé and Michael Jordan as well as politicians such as Barack Obama.

High Speed They are typically driven at high speed, their horns blaring and loud music pumping from powerful speakers concealed under the back seat. Taking a ride in one of these road machines reveals even more of Nairobi’s matatu culture. Most are fitted with flat-screen TV sets with digital video players installed and amazing sound systems. This depends, however, on the route. Those plying the eastern routes, especially the middle-class suburb of Buruburu, are the flashiest. They are closely followed by matatus on the South C and South B routes and those on the Eastleigh route. The matatus are especially popular with students and young people because of the music and video displays. The type of music is dependent on the time of day and the age group that the crew would like to entertain. It ranges from R&B in the mornings and evenings to hip hop and African reggae and bongo during the day.

Apart from the loud music, another interesting aspect of the matatus is the people who ride in them. They come from different walks of life and do all manner of jobs in the city. Some are students, some are jobless and some are on a short visit to Nairobi while many others rely on the matatus to get to and from their respective places of work.

People They range from the smartly dressed gentleman who sits at the front where everyone can see him and is constantly talking on his phone, giving orders and talking big, to the college student checking out her friends on Facebook, to the lady in a dirty checked apron, carrying a huge basket of fresh produce from the

Taking a ride in one of these road machines reveals even more of Nairobi’s matatu culture. Most are fitted with flat-screen TV sets with digital video players installed and amazing sound systems downtown farmers’ market to the estates where she sells her wares from a wooden stall.

are revered for their rudeness and ill manners, but most Nairobians have learned to live with them.

And not forgetting the guy who sits next to you, clad in fake designer jeans and a pullover and smelling of alcohol. He seems to run out of space on all sides and every bump in the road brings him an inch closer.

Faith

Hate them or love them, the matatus are here to stay and are part of the proud culture of Nairobi. The drivers and touts

At the beginning of each working day, the matatus take us quickly to work and at the end of the day they take us quickly home. For them and their crew, it is an act of survival; for the passengers, it is an act of faith that we will get there safe and sound; and for us all, it is a culture.

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FLY540

ORMATIO F N IN

Travel information for East Africa South Sudan visas Visa information Most nationals require visas to enter East Africa. Citizens from the five East African states require no visas while those from the Common Market of East and Southern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa. However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.

Any visitor going to South Sudan through Khartoum requires a valid visa. Visas are issued through the South Sudan Embassy. The Republic of South Sudan has missions in Kenya, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Zimbabwe, Nigeria, South Africa, Australia, Norway, Belgium, the UK, Germany, France, Turkey, Libya, China, India, Italy, Canada and the USA. Immigration regulations stipulate that anyone going to South Sudan and wishing to travel outside of Khartoum needs a travel permit from the Government of South Sudan. Those travelling to South Sudan from Kenya, should visit the South Sudan Embassy in Kenya.

Tanzanian visas All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are required to have a valid visa unless their countries have agreements with Tanzania under which the visa requirement is waived. Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia. Visa-issuing Stations and Authorities

Requirements: • All applicants to launch their visas in person • Passport must be valid for at least six month and presented on submission of application • Two recent colour passport-size photos • Yellow fever vaccination card • Letter of invitation and intent Standard Visa fees payable by balance transfer to: • Government of South Sudan Special Permit Account • Bank: Kenya Commercial Bank; Sarit Centre Branch • A/C No. 402004247 Fees: • Multiple entry: $250 (six months)/$400 (one year) • Single entry for countries with common boarder with South Sudan: $50 • Single entry for other African countries: $100 • Single entry for European and Amercian citizens: $100 Processing period: Two working days

Tanzanian visas are issued by the following: • The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar. • Entry points to the United Republic of Tanzania: principally Namanga, Tunduma, Sirari, Horohoro, Kigoma Port, Dar es Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International Airport, Zanzibar Harbour and Zanzibar Airport. • Any other gazetted entry point. • From Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad. For more information on Tanzanian diplomatic missions visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm

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Ugandan visas The easiest way of getting a visa to Uganda is by purchasing it at the entry point, Entebbe Airport or any border station. This is very possible for tourists coming into Uganda. All you need to do is pay US$50, fill in the application form with passport dates and information. The visa issued is valid for 90 days. You can also get a visa by applying online if you a citizen of the following countries, USA, UK, South Africa, Russia, Japan, Italy, India, Germany, France, Denmark, China, Canada, and Belgium. All you need to do is to download the application from the embassy website of your country of origin.

Kenyan visas Visas are required for most nationals and cost US$50. A visa can be obtained on entry, however we recommended one be obtained before arrival to avoid airport lengthy queues. Visa Application Forms are available online. A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the exception of those holding a re-entry pass to Kenya and citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay. Note that the reciprocal visa abolition agreements with Germany, Italy, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Spain, and Republic of Ireland no longer apply and nationals of these countries now require a Visa.

KEnYA VISA rEQuIrEMEnTS • Valid passport with sufficient number of unused pages for endorsements abroad. Passport must be signed and valid for at least six months.

• A self-addressed stamped envelope for express mail, courier, registered mail, etc., if the visa is urgently required. Metered stamps are not acceptable. • Home and work telephone numbers. Please fill out the form correctly and enclose the photographs and payment to avoid delay and disappointment. Standard Visa fees payable by cash to the Embassy of Kenya.

vIsA Fees chArGes:

Multiple entry: $100 Single entry: $50 Transit Visa: $20 1. Please note that all children below 16 yrs are not charged visa fees 2. The reduced visa fees were effected on 1st march 2009, as directive from ministry of tourism on attracting more tourists in to the country.

• Visa application form duly completed and signed by the applicant.

3. Passengers can pay in US dollar, British pounds, Euro or Swiss franc.

• Two recent passport size photographs attached to the application form.

For more information and to download a Kenya visa application form visit: http://www.immigration.go.ke/index.php

CINATION C I A

Vaccination requirements for international travellers

ORMATION NF

Health

FLY54 0V

• Valid round trip ticket or a letter from your travel agent certifying that the applicant holds prepaid arrangements.

• No cholera vaccination certificates are required of travellers coming from all over the world. • Only valid yellow fever vaccination certificates are required of all travellers over one year old, arriving from yellow fever infected countries mainly in central and West Africa, South and Central America South East Asia, India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh. • Vaccination for international travellers are obtainable from all international air and sea ports, city and major municipal councils NB: Make sure you get your yellow fever shot in good time since the yellow fever certificate is valid for travel use 10 days after vaccination.

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Information //

FLY540

TRAVEL IN 0 F 54

By bus Kenya has a network of long-distance bus services on which speed is limited to 80 kph. Within Nairobi, buses are run by private companies such as Citi Hoppa, whose green-and-yellow buses offer cheap transport (usually about US$0.66) and provide regular services between the city centre and the suburbs. With seating for 20 to 35 passengers (no standing passengers allowed by law), they are a cleaner and less hectic mode of transport than matatus, but they serve many of the same routes.

By 4x4 and hire car You can hire a 4x4 and drive through Kenya, although you need to be proficient at handling such a vehicle. Most international rental agencies have offices in Nairobi and Mombasa. They offer affordable and reliable cars with a full back-up network. Visitors can also rent cheaper cars from local distributors who are mostly reliable. In addition, there are car rental agencies in Kampala and Dar es Salaam.

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By train The Kenya-Uganda railway starts in Mombasa and goes via Nairobi to Kampala, Uganda. This train service is the famous ‘Lunatic Express’ that featured in the Michael Douglas film ‘The Ghost and the Darkness’.

MATION OR

FLY

Getting Around in East Africa

By matatu

Matatus offer a cheap and quick means of transport in all the major towns and many rural areas. The name matatu hails from the Kiswahili word for the number three – tatu – because some time ago the standard fare was three 10 cent coins. Matatus have a yellow strip running around the vehicle with the route number on display.

In Tanzania, public minibuses are known as daladala. Unlike in Nairobi, the minibuses in Dar es Salaam are packed and normally exceed their carrying capacity, especially in the morning and afternoon rush hours. The daladala have the fares displayed on their sides, however, making it easier for visitors to the city to avoid being overcharged. Also popular in Dar es Salaam are three-wheel motorcycles known as bajaji. In Kenya, they are known as tuk tuks and are popular in the resort cities of Mombasa and Malindi. In Kampala, the motorcycle taxis, known as boda boda, are the most popular mode of transport. They are not only cheap, but handy when you want to beat the heavy traffic in Kampala during the rush hour.

Hand luggage The following may be carried in your hand luggage only if they are stored in containers up to 100 ml in size and placed in a transparent resealable plastic bag and thereafter screened separately from other items carried in the hand luggage. The capacity of the transparent plastic bag must not be greater than 1 litre. Liquids, gels and aerosols include: • Water and other drinks • Syrups • Creams, lotions and oils • Perfumes and sprays • Gels including hair and shower gels • Pastes including Vaseline and eye shadow

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• Pressurised containers such as shaving foam and deodorants

MATION OR

FLY5 40

Matatus are privately run minibuses, typically for 14 or 25 passengers and operating over short and medium distances. Previously, the matatus were usually packed to well over capacity – with up to 25 people in a 14-seater vehicle – but in recent years there has been more government regulation and policing of matatus, especially in the larger cities, and now most of them have seatbelts and care is taken not to exceed the vehicle’s stated capacity.

• Other items with similar consistency. The following items are allowed in hand luggage: • Medicine needed during the flight • Baby food needed during the flight. You may buy any liquids beyond the security check points including duty free or in-flight items. Items purchased must be packed in security tamper evident bags and accompanied by proof of purchase when presenting them at the security checkpoint. NOTE: Kenya Airports Authority implements all ICAO standards and recommended practices on liquids, aerosols and gels.

Africa’s low cost airline

THE FLY540

AIRCRAFT FLEET

Canadair CL-600-2B19 Regional Jet Type: Twin-engine regional jet Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 50 passengers

Hawker Beechcraft Airliner B1900C Type: Twin-engine turboprop aeroplane Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 19 passengers

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// Fleet

Bombardier Dash 8 102 Series Type: Twin-engined, medium range, turboprop airliner Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 37 passengers

Cessna Caravan C208 Type: Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner Number in service: One

Fokker F27 Type: Turboprop cargo airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 1336 x 210 x 190 cargo hold

Capacity per aircraft: 10 passengers

ATR 72-500 Type: Twin-engine turboprop short-haul regional airliner Number in service: Two

Fokker F28 Type: Short range jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 67 passengers

Capacity per aircraft: 78 passengers

208B Grand Caravan Type: Stretched version of the basic Caravan. Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner

DC-9 Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 80 passengers

Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 12 passengers

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Africa’s low cost airline

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Contact information FIVE FORTY AFRICA - HEAD OFFICE

Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100 Nairobi, Kenya

ARUSHA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

Blue Plaza Building, Indian Street

Tel: +255 (0)27 254 5211 Tel: +255 (0)784 410 233

Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/5 Fax/Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2396 Sales: Tel: +254 (0)737 540 540

KILIMANJARO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

FIVE FORTY CALL CENTRE

ZANZIBAR 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

Email: info@fly540.com

ABC Place, off Waiyaki Way

Tel: +254 (0)20 445 3252/6 Cell: +254 (0)722 540 540; ( 0)733 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 445 3257

LAICO REGENCY - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Mezz. floor, Shopping Arcade

Tel: +254 (0)20 224 3211/3/4 Cell: +254 727 540 540; (0)737 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 224 3219

JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Unit 3 (Domestic Departures)

Tel:+255 (0)756 540 540 Tel: +255 (0)27 255 4282

Cine Afrique Building, Stone Town

Tel: +255 (0)24 223 5110 Tel: +255 (0)762 540 540

uGAndA 540 (u) ltd KAMPALA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE 1st Floor, Oasis Mall

KAKAMEGA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS

Holden Mall - above Nakumatt Supermarket

Tel: +254 (0)734 540 550 Tel: +254 (0)711 908 330

GerMAnY AVIAREPS AG

Kaiserstraße 77 60329 Frankfurt am Main

Tel: +256 (0)414 346 915/999 Tel: +256 (0)312 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)712 540 540; (0)776 540 540

ENTEBBE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

SALES

Tel: +49 (0)69 770 673 076 Fax: +49 (0)69 770 673 028

Email: Res540.FRA@aviareps.com

Tel: +49 (0) 69 770 673 077 Fax: +49 (0)69 770 673 235

UKUNDA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS BARCLAYS CENTRE, DIANI ROAD

AVIAREPS AG

Moi International Airport, Mombasa

LAMU - NORTH COAST TRAVEL SERVICE

Email: Res540.BRU@aviareps.com

tAnZAnIA

Terminal Building, Kitale Airstrip

Plot no. 767/39, Samora Avenue

Tel: +255 (0)22 212 5912/3 Sales: Tel: +255 752 540 540; (0)788 540 540 Cell: +255 754 292 675; (0)784 292 675

KITALE TICKETING & RESERVATIONS

Tel: +254 (0)770 639 429 Tel: +254 (0)724 457 374 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 547

ELDORET 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS

www.fly540.com

unIted KInGdoM FLY540

c/o AviaCircle 28-29 The Quadrant Business Centre 135 Salusbury Road London, NW6 6RJ

RESERVATION Tel: 0870 774 2250 Fax: 0870 777 7172

SALES

Tel: +32 (0)2 712 04 93 Fax: +32 (0)2 725 83 92

SALES Tel: +32 (0)2 712 05 84 Fax: +32 (0)2 725 83 92

Email: Sales540.BRU@aviareps.co

netherlAnds AVIAREPS AG

Beechavenue 104 1119 PP Schiphol

RESERVATION

Email: Sales540@aviacircle.com

AVIAREPS AG

Via Monte Rosa, 20 20149 Milan

RESERVATION Tel: +39 02 4345 8346 Fax: +39 02 4345 8336

Email: Res540.MIL@aviareps.com

SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Maria Rosa Cappelli

Mobile: +39 335 778 5936

Email: mcappelli@aviareps.com

south AFrIcA AVIAREPS (PTY) LTD 38 Wierda Road West Wierda Valley Sandton, Johannesburg

RESERVATION Tel: +27 (0) 11 722 0229 Fax: +27 (0) 11 783 8135

Email: Res540.JNB@aviareps.com

SALES Tel: +27 (0) 722 0229 / +27 74 177 1596 Fax: +27 (0) 783 8135 Email: Sales540.JNB@aviareps.com

russIAn FederAtIon GSA AVIAREPS AG

Prospect Mira, 39 bldg 2, 129110 Moscow

Tel: +31 (0)20 654 79 29 Fax: +31 (0)20 623 01 51

RESERVATION

Tel: +254 (0)53 203 3570/80

Email: Res540.AMS@aviareps.com

ELDORET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT - 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

SALES

Email: Res540.MOW@aviareps.com

Tel: +31 (0)20 520 02 82 Fax: +31 (0)20 623 01 51

SALES

Tel: +254 (0)53 203 0814 Tel: +254 (0)53 206 3823 ext 658

J.E. Mommaertslaan 16 B (2nd floor) 1831 Diegem

RESERVATION

Email: nctslamu@swiftmalindi.com Email: nctsmalindi@swiftmalindi.com

DAR ES SALAAM 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

belGIuM

Tel: +254 (0)20 354 6532 Tel: +254 (0)726 453 246

Tel: +254 (0)41 343 4821 Tel: +254 (0)32 540 540; (0)722 555 730

Email: 540-Switzerland@aviareps.com

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RESERVATION

Tel: +254 (0)42 213 0312 Tel: +254 (0)42 463 2054 Tel: +254 (0)725 942 444

Tel: +41 (0) 44 286 99 62 Fax: +41 (0) 44 286 99 63

Tel: +254 (0)20 254 0206 Tel: +254 (0)729 540 540 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 540

Unit 1 (International Departures)

Tel: +254 (0)41 231 9078/9 Mob: +254 (0)728 540 540; (0)710 540 540

RESERVATION & SALES

Tel: 0870 774 2250 Fax: 0870 774 2250

Email: sales540.FRA@aviareps.com

Ground Floor, Mombasa Trade Centre Nkrumah Road

Badenerstr. 15 CH-8004 Zürich

Ground Floor, Langata House

Tel: +256 (0)314 540 540 Tel: +256 (0)315 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)713 540 540

MOMBASA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE

AIRLINE & TOURISM CENTER GMBH

Email: res540@aviacircle.com

540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS WILSON AIRPORT: 540 SAFARI CIRCUIT SALES

Tel: +254 (0)20 827 523 Tel: +254 20 827 366 Cell: +254 727 532 273 Tel: +254 (0)20 827 521

swItZerlAnd

Email: Sales540.AMS@aviareps.com

Tel: +7 (495) 937 59 50 Fax: +7 (495) 937 5951

Email: Sales540.MOW@aviareps.com