Swahili-Coast-Kenya-2013 by Denis Gathanju

ISSUE 03 // 2013-14

FREE IN THIS ISSUE

yoga

Tranquil Lamu is ideal setting for yoga therapy

Beach Management

Improved beach Management is good for tourism

JAMBO!

More reasons than ever to enjoy the coast

ConTenTs 3

KENYA

SWAHILI COAST

Karibu Swahili Coast MCTA fosters more tourist-friendly approach

Welcome The coast: a destination in its own right

Jambo! – Hello! More reasons than ever to enjoy the coast

Location Map

12 Mombasa landmarks Mombasa’s colourful past gives city a unique ambience MOMBASA AND COAST TOURIST ASSOCIATION Corner of Moi Avenue and Agakhan Road PO Box 99596, Mombasa, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)41 222 5428 Email: mcta@africaonline.co.ke www.kenyacoast.net Swahili Coast Kenya is published by:

LAND & MARINE PUBLICATIONS (KENYA) LTD 2nd fl oor, Park Place Business Center 2nd Parklands Avenue PO Box 45456-00100, Nairobi Tel: +254 (0)20 368 5700 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

14 Cuisine Coast cuisine

16 LAnGUAGE And culture from North to South east Africa’s Lingua franca

18 Kaya Forest Sacred status helps preserve historic coastal forests

21 Shopping Upmarket Nyali offers top quality shopping

22 Beach Management Improved beach management is good for tourism

24 Sea Turtles Watamu leads way in conservation of turtles

26 Underwater Museum Sunken warships inspire new adventures

28 Shimba Game viewing galore just a short drive from the coast

32 Spa Treatments Better-than-ever choice of places to be pampered

36 Italian influence ‘La dolce vita’ is thriving in Malindi

38 Sights & Sounds Stylish Malindi has its own special charm

42 yoga Tranquil Lamu is ideal setting for yoga therapy

44 directory 1

Karibu Swahili COAST MCTA fosters more tourist-friendly approach

he charming coast of Kenya has attracted large numbers of visitors since time immemorial. Its balmy Indian Ocean shoreline and pristine sandy beaches are renowned the world over. The area is also rich in history and includes such popular tourist attractions as Fort Jesus and the Old Town. The coast’s history is woven with tales of merchants who came from as far away as India in search of exotic merchandise and even concubines. Images of local fishermen on dhows sailing beyond the reef are synonymous with the region. In the right season, against the romantic backdrop of a moonlit ocean, visitors have an opportunity to engage with members of the local community and hear stories inspired by a rich and fascinating history. Little wonder that this area of outstanding natural beauty, with its array of tourist activities, is a major contributor to the Kenyan economy. People in the coastal communities endeavour to improve their livelihood by engaging in activities around the area’s key industries. In short, the Kenyan coast is a wonderful melting pot of culture, tourism and industries attracted by the bustling port and set in a breathtaking location by the Indian Ocean. Over the past decade, however, Kenya’s coastal tourism sector has faced many challenges. Its reputation has been affected by bad publicity including the sense of insecurity arising from the terrorist attacks and violence that hit the region in the wake of the 1998 elections. In addition, the brash attitude of some beach tourism operators has given rise to a love-hate relationship between operators and tourists. Tourist organisations, both in the private and public sector, have begun to address these issues in a proactive way. Key laws and regulations previously not enforced have been revived with the aim of protecting the region’s most lucrative economic activity. The Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association is responsible for the promotion of inbound and domestic tourism in the coast region. It aims to protect the region’s tourism and preserve its important role as a major foreign exchange earner. One project currently being spearheaded

KARIBU I SWAHILI COAST

little wonder that this area of outstanding natural beauty, with its array of tourist activities, is a major contributor to the Kenyan economy by MCTA is the training of beach tourist operators. Research showed that one of the main reasons for dissatisfaction among visitors to the coast was a sense of harassment as a result of being approached by the operators. The association has put a lot of effort into helping the operators streamline their businesses and to set up structures that allow them to be their own watchdogs. Over the years, too, the Ministry of Tourism has developed key initiatives aimed at improving the tourist experience as well as involving local communities in showcasing the cultural diversity of the region. One of the most captivating experiences right now is the Homestays arrangement, which allows visitors to get close to their host family and the people of the local community. The Ministry of Tourism is setting out regulations that will streamline the licensing of the various categories of housing, from economy to executive. Homestays are not only promoting cultural tourism but are also strengthening the region’s economy. In addition, the Homestay units are attracting high-end tourists in search of a different coastal experience. As the government, the private sector and the local communities do their part to ensure that Kenya’s coast remains a darling in the minds of its residents, ‘oldie but goldie’ activities are now being revived. There is talk of Mombasa’s annual carnival making a comeback. The festival, to be organised by the Kenya Tourist Board and MCTA, will aim to attract both local and international tourists to a colourful three-day event that will showcase all that is best about Kenya’s coast. With kind regards,

Mohammed Hersi Chairman Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association

KARIBU I SWAHILI COAST

Karibu Swahili Coast MCTA promuove un approccio che incentiva il turismo

e incantevoli coste del Kenya hanno attratto da tempi memorabili un grande numero di visitatori. Il clima temperato e le spiagge sabbiose e incontaminate dell’Oceano Indiano sono ben note in tutto il mondo. La regione è anche ricca di storia e può contare su rinomate attrazioni turistiche come Fort Jesus e la Città Vecchia. La storia della costa è intessuta di racconti che parlano di mercanti venuti da paesi lontani come l’India alla ricerca di merci esotiche e persino di concubine. Le immagini di pescatori locali che navigano sui sambuchi al di là della barriera corallina sono sinonimi della regione. Nella stagione giusta, sullo sfondo di un romantico chiaro di luna sull’oceano, i turisti hanno l’opportunità di incontrarsi con la comunità locale e di ascoltare narrazioni ispirate da una storia ricca e affascinante. Quindi non meraviglia più di tanto che quest’area di straordinaria bellezza, con la sua varietà di attività turistiche, costituisca una delle principali fonti di ricchezza per l’economia del Kenya. La popolazione delle comunità della costa si sforza per migliorare il proprio tenore di vita svolgendo attività che nascono attorno ai settori economici fondamentali dell’area. In sintesi, la costa del Kenya è uno straordinario crogiolo di cultura, turismo e attività industriali attratte dal porto affollato e radicate in uno scenario mozzafiato che si affaccia sull’Oceano Indiano. Nel corso dell’ultimo decennio, peraltro, il settore turistico della costa kenyota ha dovuto

fronteggiare molte sfide. La sua reputazione è stata messa a repentaglio dalla pubblicità negativa e dal senso di insicurezza che hanno fatto seguito all’attacco terroristico e alla violenza che hanno colpito la regione sulla scia delle elezioni del 1998. In più, l’atteggiamento aggressivo tenuto sulle spiagge da alcuni operatori turistici ha fatto nascere tra operatori e turisti un rapporto bivalente caratterizzato da amore-odio. Le organizzazioni turistiche, sia del settore privato che di quello pubblico, hanno cominciato ad affrontare queste problematiche con un approccio improntato al pragmatismo. Leggi e regolamenti importanti, mai fatti rispettare in precedenza, sono stati ripristinati con l’obiettivo di tutelare l’attività economica più remunerativa della regione. La Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association è responsabile della promozione del turismo nella regione costiera, sia a livello internazionale che nazionale. L’associazione si prefigge di tutelare il turismo della regione e di salvaguardare l’importante ruolo di generatore di reddito in valuta estera che essa svolge. Un progetto attualmente guidato dalla MCTA riguarda la formazione degli operatori turistici che operano sulle spiagge. La ricerca ha evidenziato che una delle principali cause di insoddisfazione percepita dai visitatori della costa sia stata un senso di fastidio da essi subito e dovuto all’approccio degli operatori. L’associazione ha dedicato moltissimi sforzi per aiutare gli operatori a ottimizzare la loro attività e a creare strutture

che permettano loro di esercitare un forte controllo su sé stessi. Inoltre, nel corso degli anni, il Ministero del Turismo ha messo a punto iniziative strategiche volte al miglioramento dell’offerta turistica e anche a promuovere il coinvolgimento delle comunità locali nel presentare la diversità culturale che caratterizza la regione. Una delle iniziative più accattivanti e immediate è l’accordo con Homestays, che permette ai visitatori di avvicinarsi alle famiglie che li ospitano e alla popolazione della comunità locale. Il Ministero del Turismo sta varando regolamenti volti a ottimizzare la concessione di licenze per le varie categorie di sistemazione immobiliare, dal livello economico a quello di lusso. Homestays non si limita a promuovere il turismo culturale, ma sta anche rafforzando l’economia nell’ambito della regione. Inoltre, le unità immobiliari offerte da Homestay stanno attirando turisti di fascia esclusiva che sono alla ricerca di un’esperienza diversa sulla costa. Analogamente a quanto sta facendo il governo, il settore privato e le comunità locali svolgono la loro parte per garantire che la costa kenyota continui a essere un gioiello nella mente della popolazione residente e in questa luce adesso vengono riproposte attività “vecchie ma remunerative”. Sono in corso trattative per riesumare la celebrazione annuale del carnevale di Mombasa. Il festival, che dovrà essere organizzato congiuntamente dal Kenya Tourist Board e dalla MCTA, si propone di attirare turisti sia locali che internazionali a un coloratissimo evento della durata di tre giorni che metterà in mostra tutto quanto di meglio esiste sulla costa kenyota. Distinti saluti

Mohammed Hersi Presidente Dell’Associazione Turistica di Mombasa & della Costa

SOUTH COAST

kaya forest

Karibu Swahili-KUste MCTA verfolgt tourismusfreundlichere Strategie

ie bezaubernde kenianische Küste lockt seit undenklichen Zeiten große Zahlen an Touristen an. Der sanfte Küstenstreifen am indischen Ozean mit seinen makellosen Sandstränden ist weltbekannt. Die Region blickt auch auf eine bewegte Geschichte zurück und hat so beliebte Attraktionen zu bieten wie Fort Jesus und die Old Town. Die Geschichte der Küste ist verwoben mit Erzählungen von Händlern, wie aus fernen Ländern wie Indien kamen, um exotische Waren oder gar Konkubinen zu suchen. Das Bild von einheimischen Fischern in Dhaus, die in der Ferne am Riff vorbeisegeln, ist ein Symbol der Region. In der Hauptsaison haben Besucher vor dem Hintergrund des Ozeans im Mondschein die Gelegenheit, Einheimische kennen zu lernen und Erzählungen über die bewegte und faszinierende Geschichte lauschen. So nimmt es nicht Wunder, dass diese Region mit ihrer herausragend schönen Natur und dem breiten Angebot an Touristenaktivitäten einen maßgeblichen Beitrag zur kenianischen Wirtschaft leistet. Die Menschen in den Küstengemeinden streben danach, ihren Lebensunterhalt zu verbessern, indem sie sich an den Aktivitäten rund um die Schlüsselindustrien der Region beteiligen. Kurz gesagt: An der kenianischen Küste verschmelzen auf wunderbare Weise Kultur, Tourismus und industrielle Aktivitäten rund um den geschäftigen Hafen vor dem malerischen Hintergrund einer atemberaubenden Region am indischen Ozean.

Im letzten Jahrzehnt wurde der Tourismussektor in Kenia allerdings vor zahlreiche Herausforderungen gestellt. Sein guter Ruf wurde durch schlechte Publicity beeinträchtigt, insbesondere durch die Unsicherheit infolge von Terroranschlägen und die Gewalt in der Region nach den Wahlen von 1998, die die Region erschütterte. Darüber hinaus sorgte das dreiste Auftreten mancher Tourismusveranstalter und Unternehmer für eine Art Hassliebe zwischen Veranstaltern und Touristen. Die Touristenorganisationen im privaten wie öffentlichen Bereich haben jetzt begonnen, sich diesen Problemen auf proaktive Art und Weise zu stellen. Wichtige Gesetze und Regeln, die von den Vollzugsorganen bisher nicht umgesetzt wurden, wurden mit dem Ziel wiederbelebt, die lukrativste wirtschaftliche Aktivität der Region zu schützen. Der Tourismusverband Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association ist für die Förderung des einheimischen wie des internationalen Tourismus in der Küstenregion verantwortlich. Er hat es sich zum Ziel gesetzt, den Tourismus in der Region zu schützen und seine wichtige Rolle als großer Devisenbeschaffer zu erhalten. Ein Projekt, an dessen Spitze zurzeit der MCTA steht, ist die Ausbildung von Tourismusunternehmern am Strand. Umfragen zeigten, dass einer der Hauptgründe für die Unzufriedenheit bei Besuchern darin lag, dass Veranstalter oder Anbieter auf belästigende Art und Weise an sie herantraten. Der Verband hat sich stark dafür eingesetzt, dass

die Veranstalter und Unternehmer ihr Geschäft rationalisieren und Strukturen einrichten, die es ihnen ermöglichen, sich selbst in die Schranken zu verweisen. Über die Jahre hat auch das Tourismusministerium Schlüsselinitiativen entwickelt, mit denen die Erfahrungen der Touristen verbessert werden sollen. Dabei werden die örtlichen Gemeinden mit einbezogen, die die kulturelle Vielfalt ihrer Region vorstellen. Ein besonders fesselndes Erlebnis ist die Unterbringung bei Gastfamilien. Dabei kommen Besucher in engen Kontakt mit ihren Gastgebern und den Menschen aus dem Ort. Das Tourismusministerium setzt Richtlinien fest, die die Lizenzierung von unterschiedlichen Unterbringungskategorien rationalisiert, von der Wirtschaft bis zu denen, die dies umsetzen. Die Aufenthalte bei Gastfamilien fördern nicht nur den kulturellen Tourismus, sie stärken auch die Wirtschaft der Region. Darüber stärken die privaten Unterkünfte einen hochwertigen Tourismus und ziehen Besucher an, die die Küste auf andere Art und Weise kennen lernen möchten. Im Zuge der Bemühungen von Regierung, dem Privatsektor und den lokalen Gemeinden sicherzustellen, dass die kenianische Küste ein Juwel im Denken ihrer Anwohner bleibt, werden auch bewährte alte Aktivitäten wiederbelebt. Es gibt Gespräche über ein Comeback des jährlichen Karnevals von Mombasa. Das farbenfrohe dreitägige Festival wird vom Kenya Tourist Board und dem MCTA organisiert und soll sowohl einheimische als auch internationale Touristen anziehen. Die Veranstaltung soll die kenianische Küste von ihrer besten Seite zeigen Mit freundlichen Grüßen,

Mohammed Hersi Vorsitzender Tourismusverband Mombasa und Küste

HeADeR WeLCOMe I SWAHILI COAST

the coast:

A desTinATion in iTs oWn righT

A WArM ‘jAMBo’ And ‘KAriBu’ To The CoAsT!

he coast of Kenya forms an important and integral part of our nation’s appeal as a world-class tourism destination.

for many, the coast is a destination in its own right; but it can also be combined with wildlife safaris and other types of holidays elsewhere in Kenya and the wider east African region. The coast provides a welcome and relaxing finale to any game viewing or sporting activity holiday in other parts of the country.

SAnd-And-SUn for those in search of a sand-and-sun destination, the Kenya coast is virtually unbeatable thanks to its combination of a delightful climate, an absorbing culture, exotic and largely deserted beaches and a wide choice of accommodation to suit all budgets. It’s fair to point out that the coast has also had its share of challenges, ranging from insecurity to traffic congestion, pollution and question-marks over beach cleanliness.

Along with other players in the industry, Kenya Tourism Board (KTB) has been in the forefront in addressing these challenges. Various initiatives are now in top gear, including beach management programmes, an expansion of road capacity, discouraging an over-reliance on charter flights, addressing the need to upgrade and invest in hotels and airports as well as dealing with longstanding concerns over safety and security. As Kenya’s tourism marketing arm, we are firmly committed to ensuring that the coast is properly promoted and marketed worldwide as part of a wider initiative to make magical Kenya a top global destination. This edition of ‘Swahili Coast’ is one of the platforms we are endorsing in order to highlight the attractions which we endeavour to guard and grow so as to make this region and Kenya a truly magical destination. Karibu! Muriithi Ndegwa, OGW Managing Director, Kenya Tourism Board

- HELLO! JAMBO! More reAsons ThAn ever To enjoy The CoAsT

The Kenya coast is building on its strengths: the warm and crystal-clear waters of the indian ocean and the brilliance of its beaches 8

INTRODUCTION I SWAHILI COAST

elcome to the third edition of Swahili Coast, a publication dedicated to promoting the Kenya coast, which stretches 536 km from north to south. Swahili Coast is a magazine that is found in the guest rooms of the entire region’s leading hotels and lodges, offering valuable advice about what to see and do. The rationale for the creation of this magazine was a general feeling that many visitors did not always fully appreciate the sheer breadth of attractions and activities available beyond the confines of their hotel – or perhaps lacked the confidence to venture out or did not have sufficient information to do so. The coast’s many excellent and experienced tour operators are available to assist in this regard; while for the more adventurous it is also possible to self-arrange visits and trips or to take advantage of the hotel’s resident taxi service.

priority Safety is a top priority for everyone involved in the coast’s tourism sector. The specialist Tourism Police Unit, a division of the Kenya Police, is on hand to ensure that visitors have a safe and uneventful holiday. Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), meanwhile, is at the forefront of a continued drive to make the coast an even more attractive destination. From its efforts to provide clean beaches to its management of a series of truly exceptional marine parks to the work undertaken with coastal wildlife reserves and protected forest areas, KWS is the organisation that deserves the highest praise. Furthermore, KWS works with hotels and resorts on the north coast so that tourists can

enjoy a trouble-free stay. In direct contrast with the past, curio sellers in popular beach areas now have a designated area from which they can sell items rather than approaching tourists walking or lying on the beach. So the Kenya coast is building on its strengths: the warm and crystal-clear waters of the Indian Ocean; the powdery softness and brilliance of its beaches, rated among the world’s best; its rich history and fascinating culture; the easy access it provides to nearby wildlife reserves; its enviable climate; and the genuine warmth and friendliness of local people. It all adds up to a truly amazing destination. In short, the Kenya coast has just about everything you want. We hope you enjoy your time here and have an opportunity to experience many of the ‘sites and sights’ highlighted in this publication, which comes with the backing and support of the Mombasa and Coast Tourist Association (MCTA).

SOUTH COAST

KAyA fOReST

LOCATION I SWAHILI COAST

LOCATIOn MAp Nairobi JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT WILSON AIRPORT

K E N Y A Lamu MANDA AIRSTRIP

COAST MALINDI AIRPORT

Malindi Watamu

MOI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Kilifi Vipingo

Mombasa UKUNDA AIRSTRIP

TANZANIA

Diani INDIAN OCEAN

MoMBAsAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Colourful pAsT gives CiTy

a unique ambience The most famous landmark, fort jesus, was built in 1591 to guard the city. overlooking the entrance to Tudor Creek, it is still in remarkably good condition

MOMBASA LANDMARKS I SOUTH COAST

t may not always be apparent today amid the city’s bustle, but Mombasa has a rich history stretching back many hundreds of years and involving strong influences, initially from the Arabs, then from the Portuguese and more recently from the British. Each wave of arrivals has left its mark on the city. Clearly, the Arabs and their residual Swahili culture have had the most influence on Mombasa. This influence is much in evidence today, with large numbers of local residents claiming direct Omani Arab descent. It can be found in the purity of the Arabic-based Kiswahili language – spoken in the city and in the narrow streets and traditional shops and markets of the Old Town – and in an ambience that seems to have remained unchanged down the centuries.

evidence The Old Town still contains architectural evidence of the various peoples who have inhabited this part of the city – especially in its 19th-century façades, hand-carved wooden doors, distinctive windows and precariously hanging balconies. The Old Town is more than a sanitised tourist attraction; it is a commercial area where local

people come to shop and buy goods of all kinds and where all life is before you. Mombasa’s most famous landmark, Fort Jesus, is Portuguese rather than Arab. Built in 1591, as Forte Jesus de Mombaça, to guard the city and occupying a strategic site overlooking the entrance to Tudor Creek, the fort is still in remarkably good condition.

linked The history of Fort Jesus is inextricably linked with Mombasa’s past. For example, it changed hands no fewer than nine times between 1631 and 1875 as various invaders grappled for control of the city. Under British control, until 1958, it was a prison. After the prison closed, an archaeological team led by James Kirkman spent 13 years excavating the site. Belatedly, in 2011, Fort Jesus was rightly declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco and it has a museum that is well worth a visit. The municipal symbol of Mombasa, and a feature of many picture postcards, is the pair of giant elephant tusks that stretch across busy Moi Avenue in the centre of the city. For some odd reason, the tusks, originally a makeshift

affair of wood and canvas, were installed in 1956 on what was then Kilindini Street to mark the arrival of the UK’s Princess Margaret, late sister of the present Queen Elizabeth II. It was only later that the tusks were rebuilt as a permanent landmark using aluminium. Otherwise, Mombasa is a lively island city and no trip to the Kenyan coast is complete without a day or a half-day spent enjoying its wonderful vibrancy and soaking up the special atmosphere of one of Africa’s truly great port cities.

SOUTH COAST

KAyA fOReST

Coast cuisine

CUISINe I SOUTH COAST

o visit Kenya’s coast and not sample the local cuisine would be a great pity. But that is what some visitors seem to do as hotels serve up international favourites that may satisfy the unadventurous, but fail to acquaint tourists with the unquestionable delights of Swahili-style cooking. To be fair, some hotels do offer guests a ‘Swahili evening’ where some sanitized local dishes are available from the buffet. But if you want to experience the real thing, to soak up the atmosphere and breathe in the aromas, to rub shoulders with local people, then you must get out and dine elsewhere. for such an excursion, it is hard to beat Mombasa Old Town, although similar experiences can also be found in Watamu, Malindi and Lamu.

rice cooked with perhaps beef, lamb or goat meat and fried with garlic, cardamom, black peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon sticks, ginger, cumin seed powder and onions. Meals are accompanied by locally grown vegetables, among which eggplant, okra and spinach are popular. Chicken and goat are also served.

KACHUMBArI As elsewhere in Kenya, meals at the coast are served with kachumbari: onions and finely chopped tomatoes together with pepper, cilantro (and occasionally avocado) in a vinegar or lemon juice dressing. Up country, kachumbari is usually served with nyama choma (roasted meat) and ugali (maize meal).

There is also a delicious range of spicy chutneys from which to choose. A particular seafood favourite with visitors is prawns (sometimes spicy with piri piri sauce) and rice. fish is served in the same way. fresh baby octopus, chopped into small pieces and fried, is another popular dish and is well known in Watamu. Visitors should also look out for samaki fish curry (mtuzi wa samaki). This is often tilapia cooked in coconut milk. So why not get out and try some of this delicious local cuisine. you’ll be glad you did.

Meals are accompanied by locally grown vegetables, among which eggplant, okra and spinach are popular The cuisine of the coast is a mixture of African, Arab and some european (especially Portuguese) influences. The end result is a style of cooking unique to the east African coast, from Somalia in the north to northern Mozambique in the south and on the islands of Lamu, Pemba, Zanzibar and, of course, Mombasa.

InSpIrATIOn The Indian Ocean, then, is clearly an inspiration and a major source of ingredients for so-called Swahili cuisine. Unlike ‘upcountry food’, meals at the coast are prepared with lots of herbs and spices and are generally accompanied by rice cooked in coconut milk (wali); or pilau

SOUTH COAST

KAYA FOREST

FROM NORTH TO SOUTH

EasT Africa’s Lingua franca I

nfluenced and created over the centuries by Yemeni and Omani traders sailing the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, Swahili culture and the Kiswahili language are today found along a big stretch of the East African coast. This influence runs from the southern coastal strip of Somalia to parts of northern Mozambique while at the same time embracing the Lamu Archipelago, Zanzibar, the Comores and Pemba.

Even within Kenya there are several different dialects The lingua franca Kiswahili language – of which, surprisingly, there are only about five million first-language speakers – is made up of many distinct and varied dialects. There is some argument about whether some versions of the language (such as those spoken in, say, the comores) are even Kiswahili at all.

Even within Kenya there are several dialects. In particular, both Mombasa and Lamu claim their own versions of the language. • Lamu has at least two dialects: Kiamu, spoken in and around the island of Lamu; and Kipate, a local dialect on Pate Island. • Mombasa, meanwhile, has no fewer than three dialects: Hijomvu, Kimvita and Kingare. Mombasa is in many ways the epicentre of East Africa’s Swahili culture and language. Before it adopted its present Portuguese-inspired name, Mombasa was originally known as Kongowea. Later, as a result of the many battles for the island, it was named Kisiwa cha Mvita, meaning ‘Island of War’. The Portuguese and other Europeans may have fought ferociously for control of the island, but Mombasa’s Swahili culture and heritage have remained very much intact.

This heritage has been recognised and celebrated only in recent times, however. The first cultural centre was established in Mombasa, in 1993 as a joint project by the National Museums of Kenya, the International Labour Organization and the United Nations development Programme. These centres aim to train young men and women from the Old Town areas of Mombasa and Lamu in traditional Swahili crafts. Perhaps more importantly, the training also includes business management, thus providing the young people with self-employment skills. Both centres encourage micro-enterprise development for young people in the Old Towns and in the coastal region as a whole.

LAMU After Mombasa, the next most important centre of Swahili culture is Lamu – one that has been least ‘contaminated’ by outside influences. So, today, the Lamu Archipelago

SOUTH SWAHILI cULTURAL CENTRES LANGUAGE and Culture I swahili COAST

COAST

retains the strongest and purest link with Swahili culture and language with its Yemeni and Omani history. This link is still apparent in everyday life, from the purity of the local dialect to the local architecture and the dress styles of the people of these islands. In earlier times, the town’s isolation from 20th-century modernisation preserved the rich architectural heritage that still exists. But modernity has arrived and with it many outsiders who have restored some of Lamu Town’s finest old buildings for use as holiday homes or as boutique hotels and the like. Lamu Fort, built in 1821, is located in Lamu’s main square. Now a museum and cultural centre, the fort is one of the archipelago’s top tourist attractions. Then there is the Swahili House Museum, close to the Yumbe House Hotel, a splendid 18th-century stone-built former residence. The museum features a ground-floor stone

Lamu Archipelago, retains the strongest and purest link with Swahili culture

arcade veranda as well as an upper-floor balcony made of teak.

Recognising its Swahili roots, Lamu is one of a handful of Unesco World Heritage sites in Kenya. Unfortunately, Lamu’s traditional ways are under threat. It is said that Lamu is one of 12 worldwide Unesco sites most ‘on the verge’ of irreparable loss and damage. Let us hope this is not the case.

Sacred status helps preserve historic coastal forests

KAYA FOREST I SOUTH cOAST

Like other tribes from across Kenya, the Mijikenda have traditionally sought to offer ritual and sacrifice to the forests (which they call ‘kaya’) of the coast region. There are 11 forests of between 30 and 300 hectares stretching from the coast to some 200 km inland. Collectively, these forests – the survivors of an extensive lowland coastal forest – were declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 2008. They contain the remains of fortified villages built as far back as the 16th century but largely abandoned by the 1940s as the inhabitants gravitated towards job opportunities in urban areas and as famine and disease took their toll.

AbAndOned There are thought to be over 30 surviving examples of these kayas. And despite the fact that they have been abandoned, the Mijikenda

tices of the tribes and represent their defining characteristic. A beneficial by-product of the sacred nature of the forests is that it has helped maintain their biodiversity and discouraged human development. Yet a decline in the Mijikenda traditions has begun to threaten the sanctity of the forest and its many rare plants. In more recent times, moreover, the growing demand for land, firewood, wood for carving and timber for house-building has put pressure on many of the kaya forests, located mainly in the counties of Kwale, Kilifi and Malindi.

Pic credit Victor Ochieng

orests are regarded as sacred by the nine sub-tribes or clans of the Mijikenda who traditionally have inhabited the area close to the Kenyan coast.

perSpecTiVe From a visitor perspective, Kaya Kinondo in Kwale on the south coast is easy to reach and close to the hotels at Diani Beach. It was the first Mijikenda sacred forest to be opened up for controlled eco-tourism activities, with all income going towards the

collectively, these forests were declared a World Heritage Site by Unesco in 2008 regard these villages as the repositories of spiritual beliefs and, as such, the sacred dwelling places of their ancestors. As a result of the reverence in which they are held, the Mijikenda have maintained the original village locations and the graves. Today they provide a focal point for the religious beliefs and prac-

maintenance and conservation of the kaya. Visitors are taken through the forest by community guides, who explain the sacred nature of the kaya and share their knowledge of the forest’s flora and the uses to which it was put by the Digo, the Mijikenda clan which inhabited this part of the coast.

SHOPPING I SOUTH COAST

Upmarket Nyali

offers top quality shopping A

fter Nairobi, Mombasa – or more precisely Nyali – is easily the next-best place in Kenya to go shopping – and it’s getting better all the time.

and two adjacent supermarkets, Naivas and Nakumatt.

The huge 9,200 square metre City Mall on the Mombasa-Malindi Road is the city’s latest retail paradise and one to more or less rival Nairobi’s finest. Formerly the Nyali Mall, this seven-storey shopping and leisure complex has over 60 outlets including a restaurant, a Dormans coffee shop and an Ashley Hair Salon as well as a banking hall, a food court

City Mall adds to the existing Nakumatt Nyali, with which it interconnects, and the well-established Nakumatt Cinemax Mall already present in the local area. Both have provided a first-class shopping experience, but City Mall takes retailing in Mombasa to a new level and puts the city almost on a par with Nairobi.

experience

improved beach management iS Good for toUriSm 22

BEACH MANAGEMENT I SOUTH COAST

t’s fair to say that Kenya has experienced beach management problems that have sometimes had a negative impact on visitors’ experience of the nation’s truly wonderful coastline. Luckily, thanks to the efforts of the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), the Mombasa and Coast Tourism Association (MCTA) and other participants such as leading hotels, these problems have been greatly reduced. In fact, they have been largely eradicated along large stretches of beach front – especially those in the most popular areas. Among the many issues dealt with by the KWS-led initiative were harassment of visitors, poor waste management, conflict between hoteliers and beach sellers and lack of security. Also highlighted was the need to address social vices, threats to the environment and the protection of marine life.

indicators One of the key indicators of this changing situation is the sight of hotel sunbeds on the beach for the first time in many years. Previously, these were confined to a hotel’s own

Hotel guests can relax safe in the knowledge that their privacy will not be disturbed by touts and others grounds, where security guards would be on hand to supervise access by non-residents. Today, sunbeds are on the beach along many parts of the coast and hotel guests can relax safe in the knowledge that their privacy will not be disturbed by touts and others. As a quid pro quo, beach sellers of clothing and curios have been allocated their own properly demarcated areas by the authorities,

where they can legitimately offer their wares and services. This compromise benefits all parties: the hoteliers, the guests and the vendors themselves, who now have a fixed location from which to operate. Moreover, operators are registered by the KWS and each has an identification badge issued by associations such as the Mombasa Beach Operators’ Association (MBOA). Security is maintained by uniformed KWS rangers who monitor the beach front. Units of the local Tourism Police also undertake their own regular patrols. Meanwhile, offshore patrols are carried out by the Kenya Navy, using three boats containing armed and uniformed personnel.

questions In addition to questions of security and the regulation of beach sellers, KWS is working alongside ocean-front hotels to keep the beaches clean and free of rubbish, debris and naturally occurring but unsightly seaweed. On the coast alone, KWS has employed 35 beach cleaners who collect waste daily. Owing to the sheer length of the Kenyan coast, improved beach management has been confined largely to north and south coast Mombasa, Malindi and Watamu.

WAtAmU leAdS WAy

in conservation of turtles

SEA TURTLES I ECO WORLD

he Watamu Marine National Park & Reserve is one of Kenya’s most important nesting areas for sea turtles and is internationally recognised as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve.

Turtles nesting at Watamu include green, hawksbill and occasionally olive ridley species In fact, the whole beach area of the national park – or 99 per cent of it – has been designated a turtle nesting site thanks to a turtle watch programme operated by the reserve.

Hawksbill Turtles nesting at Watamu include green, hawksbill and occasionally olive ridley species. Leatherbacks can also be seen in the park from time to time but do not nest on this part of the coast.

Watamu Turtle Watch (WTW) is at the forefront of local conservation efforts. This is further encouraged by a direct payment scheme involving local fishermen, who receive a fee for each turtle they allow to be tagged and released. Before the turtles are released, they are measured and examined and tagged by WTW before being returned to freedom. This programme has greatly assisted research into the nesting and breeding habits of turtles.

dedicated The rehabilitation of sick turtles is aided by WTW’s ‘Adopt A Turtle’ programme and its dedicated rehabilitation centre is the only one of its kind in East Africa. Sadly, most of the turtles admitted to the facility are suffering from a disease thought to be related to marine pollution. Other common problems, too, are mostly human-related, including injuries from spear guns, fish hooks, nets and lines as well as being hit by boats.

Sunken warships iNSpire NeW AdVeNtUreS 26

UNDERWATER MUSEUM I ECO WORLD

he National Museums of Kenya (NMK) is looking to widen the range of tourism activities by creating new underwater museums.

There are several shipwreck sites in the Kenyan coast and NMK aims to excavate them Water sports, especially diving and snorkelling, are already popular. Now there are opportunities to combine these sports by allowing visitors to dive on to historical sites on the ocean floor off Mombasa and Malindi. NMK is working on the underwater archaeological surveys of the sites identified so far. There are several shipwreck sites in the Kenyan coast and NMK aims to excavate them. The result of the surveys will guide NMK on which sites will be suitable development as underwater attractions.

The Portuguese naval vessel ‘Santo Antonio’ is one such possible wreck site. According to then NMK records, there are over 30 shipwrecks along the Kenyan coast. Those along the Mombasa coast include ‘Highland Lassie’ (1879), ‘Sussex’ (1909) and ‘Hamad’ (1909).

shipwreck A similar shipwreck has been found in the Ngomeni area, just north of Malindi. Lying at a depth of 10 metres, about 2 km offshore, the vessel has not been identified by name but has a working title of ‘Ngomeni’. The ‘Ngomeni’ is believed to have been sunk in the 14th century. This is by far the oldest shipwreck to have been discovered in Kenya. Off Lamu, the NMK is working with Chinese archaeologists on a study of an ancient Chinese shipwreck. The ship is believed to be part of a fleet led by Zheng He, who sailed into Malindi in 1418 during China’s Ming Dynasty.

Control Photo Darren James

Around the turn of the 18th century, various maritime powers vied for control of Mombasa. It was during one of these intense battles in 1697, just before the island fell into Arab hands, that one of the recently discovered ocean treasures sank to the ocean bed. The Portuguese had stationed a warship close to their garrison, Fort Jesus, to ward off enemy vessels from the harbour.

Game viewing galore JUSt A SHort driVe from tHe coASt 28

SHIMBA I ECO WORLD

isitors looking to make an inexpensive day or half-day visit to a game reserve, or to enjoy a one- or two-night break away from the beach with some interesting game viewing, will find the perfect answer in two adjacent wildlife reserves located not far inland from the south coast. Shimba National Reserve, just 33 km from Mombasa, is best known as the last remaining natural habitat in Kenya of the majestic sable. The park also contains a variety of other game including buffalo, giraffe, waterbuck, colobus monkey and, on rare occasions, leopard. Conditions for viewing smaller animals can be less than ideal owing to the thick vegetation.

The park contains a variety of other game including buffalo, giraffe, waterbuck, colobus monkey and, on rare occasions, leopard

SHIMBA I ECO WORLD

Shimba is home to about 500 elephants, which are comparatively easy to view The scrub is not really an issue, however, as Shimba is home to about 500 elephants, which are comparatively easy to view. This very high density â&#x20AC;&#x201C; probably the highest in Africa â&#x20AC;&#x201C; makes for truly outstanding game viewing, although these numbers are, in effect, unsustainable in such a confined area.

habitat In addition to its wildlife, Shimba provides a habitat for birds and butterflies as well as a number of rare plants, notably cycads and orchids. Shimba has good overnight accommodation at the wooden-built Shimba Hills Lodge, set amid the trees and overlooking a waterhole.

Just north of Shimba is the communityowned Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary (MES), in effect a partly fenced elephant corridor extending for 25.5 km between Shimba and the much larger Tsavo East National Park. As well as funnelling elephants into the corridor, the fence is designed to reduce human-wildlife conflict in view of the farmland that abuts the sanctuary. The sanctuary produces benefits for local people by way of entrance fees, the production of (believe it or not) elephant dung paper and jobs at the hilltop tented camp associated with the Travellers Beach Hotel in Bamburi.

Better-tHAN-eVer cHoice of plAceS

to be pampered 32

SPA TREATMENTS I MALINDI

s a tourist destination, the Kenya coast has gone increasingly upmarket in response to demand from sophisticated and well-heeled visitors. In recent times, many destinations have begun to offer spa treatments and pampering in addition to more traditional sea-and-sand vacations, but Kenya seems to have got it just right with the creation of several luxuriously appointed spa and wellness centres hosted by various hotels.

treatments So where on the coast are the best places to enjoy spa treatments? There is plenty of choice if you know where to look; and some of the coast’s fanciest properties are a good place to start. In fact, there has been a trend in recent years for a number of hotels to add the cachet of ‘Resort & Spa’ to their titles. Visitors seeking out the very best treatments at the coast should look for this phrase when choosing where to stay.

Kenya seems to have got it just right with the creation of several luxuriously appointed spa and wellness centres

SPA TREATMENTS I MALINDI

This may not be an exhaustive list, but here is a selection of properties offering professional spa treatments:

Mombasa south coast Baobab Beach Resort & Spa Diani Reef Beach Resort & Spa Leopard Beach Resort & Spa Pinewood Beach Resort & Spa Neptune Palm Beach Boutique Resort & Spa

Mombasa north coast

Probably the coast’s best known spa is the Thalaspa Henri Chenot at the iconic Lion in the Sun resort in Malindi, owned by Italian tycoon Flavio Briatore. The Thalaspa Henri Chenot has been voted the world’s best spa by the British fashion magazine ‘Tatler’.

Sarova Whitesands Resort & Spa Serena Beach Resort & Spa

founder

Malindi

Featuring the science and technology of Henri Chenot, the founder of biontology, the spa has six treatment cabins, three seawater hydrotherapy facilities and a hair salon.

Diamonds Dream of Africa Kilili Baharini Lion in the Sun Ocean Beach Resort & Spa

Watamu Hemingways

But if the Thalaspa Henri Chenot is beyond the budget of most visitors, there are plenty of other spas to choose from, even in Malindi. The spa at Kilili Baharini is not far behind the Lion in the Sun in terms of the quality of its treatments and the ambience of its setting.

‘la dolce vita’ is thriving in Malindi Photo Ian Staalem

ike Lamu up the coast and Mombasa and Zanzibar to the south, Malindi owes its existence to the Arabs. Their inﬂuence is still around for all to see in the town’s Swahili heritage – the language, architecture and its culture. But today there is an even greater foreign influence on the everyday life of Malindi and that influence is Italian. In fact, Malindi is Kenya’s very own Little Italy. Back in the 1970s, Malindi was briefly popular with the Germans and Swiss, but these visitors moved elsewhere along the coast. Meanwhile, Kenyans of British descent are a small but close-knit community within Malindi. To this day the delightfully unchanging Driftwood Beach Club still retains a close ‘British’ association with those who have a home near

the ocean or who pop down to Malindi from upcountry for weekends or longer breaks. But Driftwood is a largely insignificant British island in an Italian mare.

DoMiNate And it is the Italians who now dominate; building many of Malindi’s fabulous hotels (there are about 50) and owning impressive and beautifully furnished makuti-thatched villas. It is thought that Italians own as many as 6,000 homes in the town; and some 30,000 Italian tourists visit Malindi each year. Italians have brought a certain joie de vivre (or perhaps that should be gioia di vivere) to the town – for example, by mixing local cooking styles with their own to create a truly delicious cuisine using fresh seafood and Kenya’s excellent home-grown meat. Visitors can also

expect to find great pizza parlours and traditional Italian cafés where the perfect espresso or latte can be enjoyed. It is generally estimated that about 1,500 Italians live in Malindi more or less permanently and this figure is swollen during the popular Christmas and New Year period. These permanent residents are thought to employ about 10,000 local people in various roles, including cleaners, cooks, gardeners and askaris (watchmen). Whereas elsewhere in Kenya local people speak English as their first non-local language, in Malindi many residents speak fluent Italian – not necessarily learned in a formal way (as there is no Italian language school in Malindi) but picked up from a young age by interacting with visitors or working in the hospitality sector.

ITALIAN INFLUENCE I MALINDI

This seemingly odd link between Italy and Kenya has several roots. One catalyst was the setting up in the 1970s of an Italian satellite station just north of the town. Some of those based at the site opted to stay on and their presence encouraged others to follow.

in the Sun and later turned it into a hotel. He has since invested in a new five-star resort complete with casino, villas and apartments which opened in August 2013. Italy’s colourful ex-prime minister Silvio Berlusconi is a frequent visitor.

historical

Unfortunately, the runway at Malindi Airport is not long enough to accept commercial flights directly from Europe (Briatore and Berlusconi come by private jet) so all Italians have to travel via Nairobi or make the long road journey up from Mombasa. There are plans to upgrade the area’s airport facilities to receive direct flights. The question of whether a completely new airport would be built or the existing one expanded had still to be decided as at late 2013.

The situation in Somalia was another influencing factor. Until 1941 parts of Somalia (as well as Ethiopia and Eritrea) were an Italian colony that stretched right down to the Kenyan border. Many Italians had historical roots in East Africa; and once Somalia was off limits, Kenya was the next-best option. Italy’s tourism pioneers came first, then the billionaires – most notably the one-time Formula 1 racing boss Flavio Briatore. He built a fabulous home in the town called Lion

Whichever decision is made about the airport, however, the Italians will be the chief beneficiaries and their long campaign for easier access to Malindi will have come to fruition. For Little Italy, it has been a long time coming.

stylish Malindi Has ITs OWN sPeCIaL CHaRM

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS I MALINDI

f Mombasa has a coastal rival, then that rival is Malindi. Smaller and trendier than the port city to the south, Malindi has its own niche tourism market and its own set of attractions. Malindi also has its own airport with direct flights to Nairobi, Lamu and Mombasa and there are plans to expand the runway and the terminal building. Hopes are high that one day there will be direct flights from Europe to Malindi.

effort This may be a good thing, but others feel that the extra travel time required to get to Malindi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a flight from Nairobi or a long road journey from Mombasa â&#x20AC;&#x201C; is worth the effort and helps retain Malindiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s classy reputation and atmosphere.

Malindi also has its own airport with direct flights to Nairobi, Lamu and Mombasa 39

Notable among the visitor sites, and located just off the Malindi-Mombasa highway, are the ancient Ruins of Gedi For the time being, therefore, Malindi is a place for those who enjoy Kenya but appreciate the city’s close ties with Italy; its rather good restaurants, authentic pizza parlours, smart shops and good hotels; not to mention the fine villas that wealthy Italians have built in recent years. Malindi is not just Italy by the Indian Ocean, however; it is also a convenient base from which to explore the area’s places of interest, including the less developed resort town of Watamu. Notable among the visitor sites – and located just off the Malindi-Mombasa highway – are the ancient Ruins of Gedi (or Gede], a settlement dating from the 13th

SIGHTS AND SOUNDS I MALINDI

century but abandoned by its inhabitants in the 17th century. In its heyday, Gedi was a sophisticated Arab town of about 2,500 people involved in trade with far-off places. Excavations have produced artefacts originating from Spain and Venice. In recent times, Gedi has been partly restored and its mosque and palace are easy to spot.

heritage Other heritage sites in Malindi include the Vasco da Gama Pillar, the Malindi Museum and the 15th-century Portuguese chapel, still used as a place of worship. Next to the chapel is the graveyard where Saint Francis Xavier buried two of his sailors during his journey to India in 1542. The Pillar Tombs are yet another heritage attraction in Malindi. Located next to Jama’a Mosque, between the jetty and the town centre, the 15th-century tombs are said to be the burial place of Portuguese sailors who settled in Malindi for about a year while seeking a route to India. The pillars bear inscriptions dating from China’s late Ming Dynasty. Mambrui is another 15th-century settlement close to Malindi. Little visited but well worth the trip is the natural wonder and geographical phenomenon of Marafa (or Hell’s Kitchen), just north

Little visited but well worth the trip is the natural wonder and geographical phenomenon of Marafa (or Hell’s Kitchen), just north of Malindi, with its amazingly colourful rock formations of Malindi, with its amazingly colourful rock formations. There is a small entrance fee and all proceeds go to the local community.

mangroves The Sabaki estuary, about 5 km north of Malindi, comprises mud and sand flats, salt marshes, dunes, seasonal and permanent freshwater pools, mangroves and scrub. Sabaki is famed for its rare birds, including the Madagascar pratincole, the Zanzibar red bishop and the Malindi pipit. At the same time, the area attracts migratory and resident waders in their thousands and even flamingos.

Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve is the largest stretch of coastal dry forest remaining in eastern Africa. The ecosystem consists of three forest types and is home to a number of rare forest-dwelling species. There are 270 birds (some rare and including the endemic Clarke’s weaver); 261 butterflies; 79 amphibians; and 52 mammals including three endemic sub-species: Aders’s duiker, the Sokoke bush-tailed mongoose and the wonderfully named golden-rumped elephant shrew. There are also some 600 species of plants. The Forest Reserve is managed by Kenya Wildlife Service.

Tranquil Lamu is ideal setting

for yoga therapy Island has carved a niche for itself as the ideal place for a relaxing holiday or short break

YOGA I LAMU

he island of Lamu is one of East Africa’s most compelling destinations – a place that seems to have been left virtually untouched by modernity. In many ways, Lamu is much the same today as it was hundreds of years ago. The island has no motorised vehicles and residents still rely on donkeys for transport. As a result, the island is a haven of peace and tranquillity, offering a perfect location for activities that demand silence and even solitude.

activity Yoga is one such activity that is tailor-made for Lamu. The island has carved a niche for itself as the ideal place for a holiday or short break involving regimes that have been created specifically to rejuvenate and reinvigorate the body, mind and soul. Fatuma’s Tower, with its sandy landscape, has a snug location at the rear of Shela Village overlooking sleepy Shela Beach’s sand dunes. Fatuma’s Tower, overlooking the sand dunes at Shela Beach, is named after Fatuma

Abu Bakar, a Swahili noblewoman who lived there in the late 19th century. The top floor of the tower is now the home of Gillies and Fiammetta Turle, but the property also provides three double rooms for guests. Known locally as the Yoga Place, Fatuma’s Tower offers yoga and general wellness to visitors seeking total relaxation and a sanctuary from the pressures of everyday life. Personal yoga and group programmes are available for guests and day visitors. Elsewhere and enhancing Lamu’s reputation in this particular market is the Banana House & Wellness Centre with its massage and holistic treatments. The House is home to an Art of Living Centre and other lifestyle-changing courses which centre on meditation, yoga and healthy eating plus aromatherapy and reflexology, body exfoliation, manicure and pedicure as well as the Japanese manual healing art of Shiatsu and palm-healing Reiki.