Swahili-Coast-2 by Denis Gathanju

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE ISSUE 02 // 2012-13

KENYA

SWAHILI COAST

FREE

OLD TOWN CUISINE A REAL FLAVOUR OF SWAHILI

THALA SPA SUPER SPA TREATMENTS CREATE A WINNING FORMULA

YOGA HOLIDAYS

TRANQUIL LAMU HAS ALL THE RIGHT INGREDIENTS

SAFE AND SECURE New beach management programme guarantees safety and security

KENYA

SWAHILI COAST is published by

LAND & MARINE PUBLICATIONS (KENYA) LTD

cOntents

Karibu Swahili Coast

Location map

Jambo! – Hello!

Calendar of events

Kaya Forest

Suite A5, 1st Floor, Ojijo Plaza. Plums Lane, off Ojijo Road, Parklands. PO Box 2022, Village Market 00621, Nairobi Tel: +254 (0)20 374 1934 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com on behalf of

MOMBASA AND COAST TOURIST ASSOCIATION

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Corner of Moi Avenue and Agakhan Road PO Box 99596, Mombasa, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)41 222 5428 • Email: mcta@africaonline.co.ke www.kenyacoast.net The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.

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Outlook is bright for Kenyan tourism

Kenya – above all, a safe destination for tourists

The hallowed forests of the Mijikenda

Swahili cultural centres From forts to hamlets, the coast is abuzz with history

Swahili food

Old Town cuisine – a real flavour of Swahili

Mombasa beach project new beach management programme guarantees safety and security

Landmarks

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Underwater museum

Shipwrecks could be Kenya’s latest tourist attraction

Mwaluganje Elephants

Mwaluganje has highest density of elephants in Africa

Thala Spa

Super spa treatments create a winning formula

Italian influence

Mamma Mia! Malindi is little Milano

Sights & Sounds

Yoga holiday

Directory

Useful numbers

Welcome to a treasure trove of history and nature

Tranquil Lamu has all the right ingredients

Landmarks that put Mombasa on the map

Shopping

new mall puts Mombasa in premier league for shopping

Watamu Turtle Watch

hands-on conservation programme protects endangered turtles

SWAhILI COAST MAGAZInE // ISSUE 02

SWAHILI COAST

Karibu Swahili Coast Outlook is bright for Kenyan tourism

elcome to the second edition of Swahili Coast magazine. We have had a great year in 2011, with tourism growing substantially compared with 2010. The first quarter 2012 has, however, equalled 2011 owing to various factors ranging from the prolonged travel advisory in the Lamu region to the economic uncertainty faced by Europe. We are, however, delighted to report that visitors from Scandinavia have been on the increase and we look forward to an even better growth come winter this year. We are also happy to report that both the United States and United Kingdom governments have finally lifted the travel advisory that negatively affected Lamu and we hope that we will not have to face a similar scenario again.

We would like to take the opportunity to welcome the new Minister for Tourism, the Hon. Dan Mwazo, who replaced the Hon. Najib Balala. We would like to express our gratitude to Najib Balala for the hard work and commitment he employed to position Destination Kenya in the world of tourism. To our readers, we urge you to sample what the Kenya coast has to offer. We pride ourselves on having some very fine properties and special places. We welcome you to Mombasa and the Kenya coast while you keep in mind the Swahili saying ‘Kuingia Mombasa ni rahisi, kutoka ni matanga’, which means ‘Easy entry, but difficult to depart from’. With kind regards,

Mohammed Hersi Chairman Mombasa & Coast Tourist Association

Karibu Karibu Swahili-KUste Swahili Coast Outlook ist hell für kenianischen Tourismus

Brillanti prospettive per il turismo in Kenia

envenuti alla seconda edizione dello Swahili Coast magazine. Il 2011 è stato un grande anno che ha visto una sostanziale crescita del turismo rispetto al 2010. Il primo trimestre 2012 è risultato comunque pari al 2011 a causa di vari fattori che vanno dalla proroga del “travel advisory”nella regione di Lamu all’incertezza economica che l’Europa sta affrontando.

Abbiamo comunque il piacere di rendere noto che si è verificato un incremento di visitatori dalla Scandinavia e ci auguriamo anche una maggiore crescita nel prossimo inverno del corrente anno. Siamo altresì felici di riferire che sia il governo degli USA che dell’UK hanno finalmente abolito il “travel advisory” che ha negativamente interessato Lamu e speriamo di non dover ancora affrontare un simile scenario. Ci piacerebbe cogliere l’opportunità di dare il benvenuto al nuovo Ministro del Turismo, l’on. Dan Mwazo, che ha sostituito l’on. Najib Balala e, a quest’ultimo, vogliamo esprimere la nostra gratitudine per il duro lavoro e l’impegno profuso per collocare la “destinazione Kenya” nel mondo del turismo. Consigliamo ai nostri lettori di provare ciò che la costa del Kenya ha da offrire. Siamo orgogliosi di avere alcune proprietà eccellenti e posti speciali.

illkommen zur zweiten Ausgabe des Magazins SuaheliKüste. 2011 war für uns ein großartiges Jahr, in dem der Tourismus im Vergleich mit dem Jahr 2010 deutlich anstieg. Das erste Quartal des Jahres 2012 war jedoch aufgrund verschiedener Faktoren darunter der verlängerten Reise-Beratung in der Region Lamu sowie der wirtschaftlichen Unsicherheit in Europa genau so erfolgreich wie im Jahr 2011. Es bereitet uns dennoch große Freude, berichten zu können, dass die Anzahl von Besuchern aus Skandinavien angestiegen ist und wir rechnen bis zum kommenden Winter mit noch größerem Wachstum. Wir sind außerdem froh, zu berichten, dass die Regierungen von sowohl den Vereinigten Staaten als auch von Großbritannien endlich die Reisewarnung aufgehoben haben, die sich so negativ auf den Tourismus in Lamu auswirkte, und hoffen, dass wir nie wieder einem solchen Szenario ausgesetzt werden. Wir möchten diese Gelegenheit wahrnehmen, den neuen Minister für Tourismus, den ehrenwerten Dan Mwazo, den Nachfolger des ehrenwerten Najib Balala zu begrüßen. Desweiteren möchten wir uns bei Najib Balala herzlich bedanken, der in seiner Bemühung, Destination Kenia in der Welt des Tourismus zu etablieren, soviel Einsatz sowie Engagement zeigte.

Vi diamo il benvenuto a Mombasa e sulla costa del Kenya rammentandovi il proverbio Swahili: “Kuingia Mombasa ni rahisi, kutoka ni matanga” che vuol dire: “E’ facile entrarvi ma difficile partirvi”.

Unsere Leser laden wir ein, die Vorzüge der kenianischen Küste zu genießen. Wir haben viele schöne Anwesen sowie Unterkünfte zu bieten. Wir möchten Sie in Mombasa und der kenianischen Küste willkommen keißen. Dabei denken wir an das Suaheli-Sprichwort “Kuingia Mombasa rahisi ni, ni kutoka Matanga ‘, was bedeutet’ Einfache Ankunft, jedoch schweren Abschied.”

Distinti saluti

Mit freundlichen Grüßen,

Mohammed Hersi

Presidente Dell’Associazione Turistica di Mombasa & della Costa

Vorsitzender Tourismusverband Mombasa und Küste

SWAHILI COAST

LOCATION MAP NORTH EASTERN

Nairobi JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT WILSON AIRPORT

EASTERN

K E N Y A Lamu MANDA AIRSTRIP

COAST MALINDI AIRPORT

Malindi Watamu

MOI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Kilifi Vipingo

Mombasa UKUNDA AIRSTRIP

TANZANIA

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

Diani INDIAN OCEAN

SWAhILI COAST MAGAZInE // ISSUE 01

SWAHILI COAST

JAMBO! HeLLO! kenya - abOve all, a safe destinatiOn fOr tOurists 6

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

INTRODUCTION

aribu (welcome) to the second edition of Swahili Coast Kenya, a ‘get out and do it’ publication with key information about the Kenyan coast.

There has been a lot of activity in the tourism sector since we published our first edition. The sector has been booming while, at the same time, it has faced many challenges. First and foremost, we would like to declare Kenya a safe destination for travel. This follows a lot of hard work, not only by the security agents, but by every stakeholder in the tourism industry.

SWAHILI COAST

wares. These measures are aimed at ensuring order for the operators and, above all, peace and security for the holidaymakers.

A MAGICAL EXPERIENCE As we celebrate a second edition of this publication, we unveil the Kenyan coast like it has never been seen before. Get up-close and personal with the world’s largest mammals at Mwaluganje. Come and experience the sacred Kaya forests of the Mijikenda people. Travel back in time by visiting historical treasures in Mombasa and Malindi.

The Tourism Police Unit, a special division of the Kenya Police tasked with ensuring the safety and security of visitors, has partnered with the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) and tourism players to enhance security on the coast.

We laud the noble efforts of the KWS in making our beaches, voted by travellers some of the best in the world, clean and safe. Tourism stakeholders in the north coast area are working closely with the KWS to clean up the beach front and enhance security. Beach beds are now within breathing distance of the ocean, providing tourists with quick and unobstructed access to the water. We also laud the enhanced beach management programme, which goes a long way towards securing our beaches. The Mombasa Boat Operators’ Association is working closely with the KWS and with hotels and resorts in the north coast area to ensure that tourists are not harassed while relaxing on the beach. Curio sellers have been given designated points from which to display and sell their

We unveil the kenyan coast like it has never been seen before

CLEAN BEACHES

For those with a spirit of adventure, the National Museums of Kenya (NMK) is working on new heritage sites that will include the nation’s first underwater museum. We also invite you to sample the lovely outdoors. And, at the end of the day, you can relax and rejuvenate at a spa or have a yoga lesson in enchanting Lamu. Sounds like a dream? No, because this is the Kenyan coast. Karibuni pwani – Welcome to the Kenyan coast. Take a front-row seat and experience the magic of Kenya. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

CALENDAR OF EVENTS

SWAHILI COAST

calendar Of events regiOnal tOurism fair – 15-17 september 2012 Mama ngina Drive, Mombasa. The Regional Tourism Fair covers a diverse range of products and information for travellers. This initiative by the Ministry Of Tourism, the Kenya Tourist Board and Mombasa Coast & the Tourist Association will be an annual trade fair held each September in Mombasa.

lamu cultural festival – nOvember 2012 Lamu Old Town, with over 700 years of continuous settlement, has a rich historical heritage. Since it was designated a World heritage Site by Unesco in 2001 the town has played host to the Lamu Cultural Festival, an annual celebration of the unique Swahili heritage of the Lamu Archipelago. Organised by the Lamu Cultural Promotion Group, the three-day festival showcases traditional dances, handicraft displays, a Swahili bridal ceremony, musical performances and Swahili poetry. It also features donkey races and dhow races. The festival is a wonderful opportunity to experience the island’s unspoilt beaches, mediaeval ambience, architecturally magnificent Old Town, gracious population and the traditions of an enchanted island where history continues to live.

malindi cultural festival runs – easter 2013 Organised by the national Museums of Kenya and supported by the Malindi Municipal Council, this cultural festival in Malindi celebrates the preservation of local heritage. The festival takes place at Malindi Museum, a charming old building, situated on the seafront, a few metres from Malindi jetty and fish market. Both visitors and local people are welcome to participate in this event, which aims to showcase the multiculturalism of Malindi. More than 20 traditional groups took part in last year’s festival, when the programme included dance performances, henna paintings, canoe races, a swimming competition, a photo exhibition and food displays by various ethnic groups.

diani rules – may 2013 For 20 years this fun charity sports event on Diani Beach has been raising money to help blind people. Teams compete in a range of sports including football, rugby, volleyball and Frisbee throwing. The ‘Diani Rules’ title is taken literally, as the rules of the games are made up, in Diani, by the judges. Teams representing a variety of companies, both Kenyan and non-Kenyan, come to take part, to help organise the events or simply to watch the fun. Always well supported by local hotels, national companies and businesses, the event affords plenty of enjoyment both for participants and for spectators.

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

The hallowed forests of the Mijikenda

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

raditionally, the forests were regarded by many African communities as sacred places of worship where rituals such as praying to the gods and the ancestors for rain or protection from natural calamities such as floods, droughts, disease or attacks from other communities would take place.

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KAYA FOREST

The Mijikenda people who inhabit the Kenyan coastline were no different. They offered sacred rituals and sacrifices from within the sacred forests they called kaya.

unesco A ‘kaya’ is a Mijikenda term that means ‘homestead’. The term Mijikenda describes the nine coastal tribes of the Giriama, Digo, Duruma, Rabai, Kauma, Ribe, Jibana, Kambe and Chonyi. Today, these sacred forests in the coastal lowlands combine history and culture and add to the aesthetic appeal of Kenya’s natural scenery. The kaya forests consist of at least 11 natural forests in a 200 km stretch of land along the coast. The sacred Mijikenda Kaya Forests are listed among the Unesco World Heritage Sites. Today, organised groups are allowed to tour these sacred forests. Many hotels and tour operators at the coast arrange such visits, which go a long way towards opening up the cultural aspects of the Mijikenda people.

Tribal shrines Historically, the Mijikenda were driven out of their former settlements in the Upper Tana by nomadic pastoralists such as the Galla and Oromo people. They were forced to relocate to the coastal forest settlements, which acted as shelters, protecting the Mijikenda villages from outsiders. The most sacred part of these forests is the Kaya itself, the central clearing known as the home of the community. This was preserved as a sacred place and burial ground for the villagers. The

The sacred Mijikenda Kaya Forests are listed among the Unesco World Heritage Sites

graves of great leaders or tribal chiefs were buried separately and the graves would be treated as shrines.

fingo The Mijikenda people believe the spirits of their ancestors still reside in the kayas and their presence can still be felt. A protective amulet called a fingo, believed to possess supernatural powers, would be buried in a secret spot within the kaya to protect the community from outside aggressors and help them communicate with the spirits of their ancestors. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

SOUTH COAST

KAYA FOREST

Visitors are led through the forest by guides from the community and regaled with tales of its various cultural traits

Visitors to the Kaya Kinondo are led through the forest by guides from the community and regaled with tales of its various cultural traits. This is an essential part of the experience as it deepens one’s sense of the kaya’s living history and the Digo traditions. Visitors to the forest will not only have learnt about one of Africa’s remaining biological, cultural and historically rich forests and participated in a sacred cultural activity, but will also have assisted a major community conservation project.

natural medicine

Since the kayas are hallowed grounds for the Mijikenda community, entry to these shrines is via specific paths only. The community considers it bad luck to access the shrines by undesignated paths. Perpetrators are viewed with scorn and open hostility by the community. Moreover, it is strictly forbidden to cut down trees or destroy vegetation in vicinity of the kaya. Even dead logs and twigs must not be removed. Members of the community are not even allowed to graze their animals close to the kaya. Anything close to the kaya, including harmful animals such as snakes, would be left untouched as they would be considered sacred.

Kaya Kinondo The kaya forests are botanically diverse, with a high conservation value as determined by two surveys by the National Museums of Kenya (NMK). According to the NMK, over half of Kenya’s rare plants are found in the coastal region, especially within the kaya forests. The kayas are spread across the major counties on the coast, mainly in Kwale, Kilifi and Malindi counties. The Kaya Kinondo in Kwale on the south

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

coast is one of the most accessible. It is the most sacred kaya of the Digo people who inhabit the area. The Kaya Kinondo is located next to some of Kenya’s most beautiful beaches in Diani. This kaya is also rich in biodiversity and still bears the marks of prolonged human use and settlement in the distant past, underlining the rich folklore associated with the site.

community benefits The Kaya Kinondo is the first Mijikenda sacred forest to be opened up for controlled ecotourism activities. This was after the community’s council of elders permitted the ecotourism project to commence. The project also seeks to initiate and test the viability of ecotourism as a means of linking conservation with tangible socioeconomic benefits to the local community. A conservation and development group was formed with the aim of coordinating conservation and development activities in the area. All proceeds go towards maintaining and conserving the kaya, the community’s cultural ceremonies, and supporting community projects such as schools and water projects. Moreover, through a financial services association set up as part of the project, members of the community can obtain soft loans to start up income-generating projects such as curio shops.

The local community used the forest’s flora for various purposes such as herbal medicine, cultural and spiritual uses and economic activities like boatbuilding, clothing and carving. For example, they used the bark of Antiaris toxicaria to produce bright clothing for use by men, while the bark of the Lannea welwitschii was used to produce brown clothing for the women. The forest is thus not only ecologically valuable but also a strong part of the cultural heritage with deeply intrinsic ethno-ecological values that have been respected and maintained down the generations, producing the valuable but vulnerable forest we know today.

Proceeds go towards maintaining and conserving the kaya, the community’s cultural ceremonies, and supporting community projects

Know before you go

Rules of access to the Kaya Kinondo

• For the respect of the sanctified nature of the site, and for your security and better enjoyment, visitors to the Kaya Kinondo must visit the forest in the company of a community guide or elder • Respect the trails and follow their directions. Do not leave them • Do not leave trash in the forest • Do not take anything from the forest, no matter how small or insignificant it seems to you • For most of their lives, the animals in the refuge hear only the sounds of the forest. By avoiding unnecessary noise, you will discover the magic of sounds of the forest dwellers • The kaya shall remain closed on every fourth day of a traditional calendar, known to the locals as Chipalata • For the sacredness and sanctity of the site, visitors to the Kaya Kinondo are advised not to kiss or fondle while touring the forest

• While in the forest, feel free to take photographs. However, you are not allowed to take pictures of the grave sites, which are considered shrines. Please respect the departed souls • All visitors must wrap a traditional Kaniki cloth around their waist before entering the forest • Remember you are visiting a sacred forest. Please do not dress in bikinis for women. In general, show as little skin as possible. Moreover, you will be walking in a forest, where there are thorn bushes and twigs which can prick or tear exposed skin.

Whatever you do, take nothing but pictures and leave nothing but footprints

• Remember, our ancestral spirits dwell here and they are not to be disturbed. Therefore, the Kaya Kinondo is open only between 8 am and 5 pm.

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

SOUTH COAST

SWAHILI CULTURAL CENTRE

From forts to hamlets. the coast is abuzz with history

For more of those nuggets of information, however, there are informal cultural centres scattered all over Mombasa – little makuti-thatched hamlets where the local communities produce

art work that expresses who they are as a people. You will stumble on these, but only if you take a stroll away from your lodge or hotel. Most of them target tourists who might be tempted to buy something artistic. In Mombasa, one of the largest cultural centres is Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese in 1593 on a coral ridge at the entrance to the harbour. The earliest known plan of the fort is in a manuscript atlas dated circa 1610 by Manuel Godinho de Heredia that shows the original layout. An Italian architect and engineer, João Batista Cairato, is believed to have designed the fortress. Its purpose was to secure the safety of Portuguese people living on the east coast because of the long history of hostilities in that area. On 24 October 1958 Fort Jesus was declared a national park in the custody of the Trustees of Kenya National Parks and after excavations it became a

here is always something new to learn about the coast, even for the residents themselves. Since the place swirls with a dated culture, you will always stumble on a pearl of information. For instance, not very many people know that Mombasa – Kenya’s second city – was originally known as Kongowea. Much later, owing to its tumultuous nature, it was renamed Kisiwa Cha Mvita, meaning ‘Island of War’.

museum in 1962. It is now an important historical landmark in the East African region.

These centres aim to train young men and women from the Old Town areas of Mombasa and Lamu in traditional Swahili crafts © Bisse Bowman

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Structurally, Fort Jesus is well preserved. Normally open to the public from 8.30 am to 5.30 pm, the fort also has evening openings from 7 pm to 10.30 pm on special requests from groups. On those nights, the dramatic history of the fort is presented in ‘son et lumière’ fashion, with cinematic images beamed in the courtyard. Dinner is often served in the gardens under the stars.

These centres aim to train young men and women from the Old Town areas of Mombasa and Lamu in traditional Swahili crafts The fort contains finds from archaeological excavations at Fort Jesus, Manda, Ungwana and other sites. And culturally significant objects donated by individuals are on display.

Swahili Cultural Centre This was the first cultural centre to be established in Mombasa, in 1993, and is a joint project by the National Museums of Kenya, the International Labour Organisation and the United Nations Development Programme. Not long after, another centre was opened in Lamu town. These centres aim to train young men and women from the Old Town areas of Mombasa and Lamu in traditional Swahili crafts. Perhaps more importantly, the training also includes business management, thus providing the young people with self-employment skills. Both centres encourage micro-enterprise development for young people in the Old Towns and in the coastal region as a whole.

Lamu The Lamu Archipelago, off the coast of Kenya, is frozen in time, literally and figuratively. Literally, because nobody wears a watch there, and if they do, they hardly ever glance at it. And there are no public clocks apart from the position of the sun. This is a place of narrow streets, with only one car on the island, belonging to the district commissioner. A heavy Arabic influence is apparent in the food, mode of dress and language of Lamu.

In fact, the whole island of Lamu is a cultural centre just bristling with historical places. One example is the Lamu Fort, built in 1821 and located in Lamuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s main square. Now a museum and cultural centre, the fort is a multi-storey building, 40 metres square, with a central doorway and an internal courtyard.

ÂŠ Bisse Bowman

MAGNIFICENT Then there is the Swahili House Museum, a magnificent 18th century stone-built former residence linked historically to Abdulla bin Hemedi, a kinsman of the Sultan of Oman. It features a ground-floor stone arcade veranda as well as an upper-floor balcony made of teak. The whole town is a cultural masterpiece and for this reason it was declared Unesco World Heritage Site.

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SOUTH COAST

Old tOWn cuisine

a real flavour of Swahili 16

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

SWAHILI FOOD

ombasa Old Town is where the Swahili gastronomy stews. Dating back to the 18th century, the 72 hectare Old Town has a history that combines African, Arabic and European influences. here, Arabs, Asians, Portuguese and British have co-existed for many years, exchanging customs and borrowing ideas from each other to form a unique coastal culture.

The architecture is from a different time. It features old, ruin-like buildings with heavy wooden doors, large windows and narrow corridors. Often, the howling sound of the muezzin can be heard, calling the faithful to prayer. It’s a scene of picturepostcard beauty.

For those who prefer seafood, there is Swahili prawns with rice. The prawns are seasoned with salt and freshly ground black pepper with lime juice and coriander stirred in. Lemon wedges are always on standby for those who might want to drench the prawns. Most meals incorporate locally available vegetables such as eggplant, okra and spinach and spices like cloves, cardamom and hot pepper. Fish is naturally central to their diet because of the proximity of the ocean. Chicken and goat meat are also served, mainly in the holiday seasons.

OCTOPUS For those with a sense of culinary adventure who might find themselves in Watamu, it is well worth visiting the Swahili village, where small makutithatched eateries serve fresh baby octopus, locally known as ngisi. Behind a makeshift house, the octopus is chopped into small pieces and deep fried until it is crisp and golden brown. It is served with vegetables or chapatti (na’an). This meal is best enjoyed while seated on wooden stools under a palm tree. You may be interested to learn that, according to folklore, octopus meat is an aphrodisiac for men and that, during the hot season,

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men are forbidden from eating this meal. Thankfully, this rule does not apply to visitors. Almost all Swahili meals are served with Kachumbari, the coleslaw of East Africa, which is a mixture of shredded vegetables prepared ahead of time and often served cold. It consists of onions and tomatoes in a vinegar or lemon juice dressing. It is not uncommon for cabbages, chile peppers and other vegetables to be included in this mix. Given the communal culture of the Swahili, meals are usually eaten in groups. Families sit together in a small circle and the food is laid out in gigantic trays. The men, women and children sit cross-legged on mats and dig in with their bare hands. Alcohol, however, is never on the menu.

almost all swahili meals are served with kachumbari, the coleslaw of east africa

What the travel brochures may not tell you is that the most authentic coastal culinary experience is to be found in Mombasa Old Town.

INFLUENCES

Koh siree © De

The food of the Swahili – a coastal people who historically could be found as far north as Mogadishu in Somalia and as far south as the Rovuma River in Mozambique – is heavily influenced by Middle East and Indian cuisine, with lots of spices and herbs. In particular, they experiment with rice, their staple food. There is pilau, a mixture of rice cooked with beef, mutton or another meat. It is fried with garlic cloves, cardamom pods, whole black peppercorns, cloves, cinnamon sticks, ginger, cumin seed powder and onions. All Swahili rice is prepared with coconut milk.

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SOUTH COAST

MOMbASA bEACH PROJECT

Beach PROJECT NeW beAcH MANAgeMeNt progrAMMe gUArANteeS SAFety ANd SecUrIty

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enya’s white sandy beaches have been voted some of the best in the world, attracting visitors from far and wide.

Now, a concerted effort is being made by various tourism stakeholders to make these pristine beachfronts even more attractive to visitors and guarantee them total relaxation beside the ocean.

NEGATIVE EFFECTS Tourism peaked in the 1990s and owing to a lack of proper beach management initiatives, the quality of Kenya’s beaches deteriorated in many respects. They were left dirty as wanton dumping went unchecked. This affected the marine ecosystem as well as leading to dissatisfaction among beach users. uncontrolled access to the beachfront resulted in constant harassment of tourists, marring their holiday enjoyment. This led to a downgrade of Kenya as a favourable tourism destination.

TRANSFORMING THE bEACHES Today, however, a new beach management programme is in operation to address most of these issues. This ambitious programme is being driven by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) in collaboration with other tourism stakeholders, especially beach hotels and resorts along the coast and the beach operators. It is hoped this will make Kenya’s beaches not only clean and tidy, but among the safest in the region.

this ambitious programme is being driven by Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS) in collaboration with other tourism stakeholders

under this initiative, many hotels on the north coast have placed beach beds within breathing distance of the ocean. This offers visitors an unprecedented level

of access to the beach and ocean while at the same time guaranteeing their comfort and safety.

IDENTIFICATION bADGES The beach operators, on the other hand, who were known to harass visitors for boat tour offers and game safaris, have been designated specific areas of the beach where they can engage with visitors. The operators are now registered with the KWS and wear identification badges issued by their respective associations such as the Mombasa beach Operators Association (MbOA) and the KWS.

CLEAN uP Curio sellers have also been allocated sites on the beachfront. This move has been lauded by all stakeholders as it helps to minimise pollution while reducing the harassment of holidaymakers and, most of all, improving security. To enhance security, KWS rangers patrol the beachfront while units of the Tourism Police and Navy carry out patrols on a regular basis. The KWS works closely with beach operators, curio sellers and hotels to conduct regular beach clean-ups to ensure that foreign objects, trash and sea grass are collected and properly disposed of. The programme, which is being piloted at Mombasa Marine Park on the north coast, will be extended to other beachfronts in Mombasa, Watamu, Malindi and Diani.

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LANDMARKS

Landmarks that put Mombasa on the map

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ombasa, a bustling metropolis by the Indian Ocean, is Kenyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second-largest city and holiday capital. The city has a centuries-old tradition of hospitality going back to the birth of Swahili culture on the Kenyan coast.

For many years, Mombasaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity has been asserted by the giant white tusks spanning Moi Avenue

Scattered across the city are various outstanding landmarks that give Mombasa its identity. The landmarks have a historical significance because they mark important milestones in the history not only of Mombasa but of Kenya as a whole. Major cities across the world are often identified by their landmarks, and for many years Mombasaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s identity has been asserted by the giant white tusks spanning Moi Avenue in the central business district and acting as a gateway to the heart of the city and its port.

Aluminium tusks The tusks were erected in 1956 as a triumphal arch to commemorate the official visit of the late Princess Margaret, sister of Queen Elizabeth II. The giant structure is designed in the shape of a letter M for Mombasa. When first put up, the tusks were made of canvas stretched over wooden frames and secured by council engineers. The boulevard across which they stand was then called Kilindini Road because it leads to Kilindini Harbour. It was later renamed SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

SOUTH COAST

LANDMARKS

Moi Avenue in honour of Kenya’s second president, Daniel Arap Moi. In the 1960s the tusks were reconstructed in aluminium. Aside from the tusks, Mombasa is dotted with other landmarks. A prominent example is Mama Ngina Drive, overlooking the entrance to Kilindini Harbour at Likoni Channel. This green patch of land is a popular recreational spot for local people and visitors because of the cooling breeze that blows inland from the ocean. Mama Ngina Drive is the only public park in Mombasa that overlooks the ocean. It was formerly a Swahili settlement when Mombasa was occupied by the Portuguese, who called it Tuaca. After independence, the park was renamed Mama Ngina Drive in honour of the wife of Kenya’s President Jomo Kenyatta. However, the park was gazetted under the name of Kilindini Park.

Fort Jesus Across the park is the unmistakable shape of Fort Jesus. The fort is a symbol of the hostile times endured by Mombasa Island during its formative years. It was built by the Portuguese between 1593 and 1596 as a military garrison to safeguard the island state from outside aggressors. It was built under the orders of King Philip I of Portugal, the then joint ruler of Portugal and Spain. The fort was built in the shape of a man when viewed from the air. It was completed in 1596 with four bastions named S. Felipe, S. Mathias, S. Alberto and S. Mateus. The main entrance was near the S. Mathias bastion. The building was

named Fortaleza de Jesus de Mombaça by Mateus de Mendes de Vasconcelos, the then Portuguese captain of the coast. Now a national monument, Fort Jesus houses a museum and gallery. It was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2011 and is recognised as one of the most outstanding and well preserved 16th century buildings on the east coast. So intense was the battle for control of Mombasa Island that Fort Jesus was occupied no fewer than nine times between 1631 and 1875. It was during this period that Mombasa gained the Swahili nickname of Kisiwa cha Vita or ‘Island of War’. Designed by Italian architect Giovanni Battista Cairati, it was the first European-style fort to be built outside Europe and was designed to withstand cannon fire. Mombasa served as a transit point for the slave trade and the fort’s interior includes torture chambers and cells where slaves were kept before being traded through the fort’s ‘tunnels of no return’, used to channel them to the slave ships anchored in the harbour.

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Now a national monument, Fort Jesus houses a museum and gallery. It was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2011 Mombasa Old Town A stone’s throw from Fort Jesus is the centuriesold Mji wa Kale (the Swahili phrase for Mombasa Old Town). The Old Town was a settlement just behind the fort. In its heyday, the Old Town played host to visitors from far and wide including Arabs, Persians, Portuguese, British and Indians. Evidence of the different cultures that have influenced the Old Town can be seen in the designs of some of the houses and furniture. Today, many houses in the Old Town retain their 19 th-century facades with beautifully carved wooden doors, arched windows and timber balconies that hang over the narrow streets below. To help preserve this heritage, the Mombasa Old Town Conservation Office works closely with the National Museums of Kenya (NMK). Through this joint effort, they are helping renovate some of these ancient structures as well as fighting off investors keen to demolish the structures in favour of modern office and residential blocks.

New mall puts Mombasa in premier league for shopping I

SHOPPING

SOUTH COAST

t may not be Nairobi, but then again it’s not trying to be. After the nation’s capital, Mombasa – or, more, correctly Nyali – is the next-best place in Kenya to go shopping – and it’s getting better by the year. The huge 9,200 square metre City Mall on the Mombasa-Malindi Road is the city’s latest offering and one to rival Nairobi’s finest. Formerly the Nyali Mall, this seven-storey shopping and leisure complex has an Artcaffe (the coast’s first), a Dormans and an Ashley Hair Salon as well as a banking hall, a fast food court and two supermarkets next door to each other, Naivas and Nakumatt.

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City Mall adds to the existing Nakumatt Nyali mall, with which it interconnects, and the well established Nakumatt Cinemax malls already present in the local area. both have provided a first-class shopping experience, but City Mall takes retailing in Mombasa to a new level.

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WATAMu TuRTLE WATCH

HANdS-oN coNSerVAtIoN progrAMMe protectS

endangered turtles

WtW has set up a simple rehabilitation facility where sick turtles can be cared for and rehabilitated into the wild

atamu, a small fishing town on the north coast, has been designated one of Kenya’s most important nesting areas for marine turtles and is internationally recognised as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve. With its beautiful white sandy beaches, Watamu is part of the wider Watamu/ Malindi Marine Parks and Reserve.

The survival of the marine turtles in Watamu is intrinsically linked to the well-being of the surrounding marine environment and to the protection of turtles across their migratory range.

PROTECTION AND MONITORING Watamu Turtle Watch (WTW) was formed in 1997 to continue and further develop the marine turtle conservation efforts of local naturalist barbara Simpson.

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WTW developed a nest protection programme, working closely with local people and the Kenya Wildlife Service to protect all nests laid on the

Sea turtle facts • Turtles are reptiles which have been around for over a 100 million years, outliving the dinosaurs • There are seven species of sea turtles, five of which are found in Kenyan waters. • Unlike tortoises, turtles cannot retract their heads and limbs into their shell • Turtles must surface to breathe, but they are able to spend long periods of up to several hours under water • Turtles can reach a speed of 30 mph but usually swim at about 5 mph. • Turtles can dive to great depths. The leatherback species can swim deeper than a whale – over 1,200 metres

beaches of Watamu and Malindi. Local participation is encouraged through a financial incentive scheme. There are daily patrols to check for nesting turtles and for tracks in the sand that indicate new nests. When nesting turtles are encountered, they are tagged and biometric data collected.

Local participation is encouraged through a financial incentive scheme

In collaboration with local fishing communities, WTM has also set up a net release and tagging programme to encourage fishermen to release, rather than kill, turtles accidentally caught in their

Sponsor a turtle or a nest You will receive an adoption certificate and updates about your turtle:

fishing gear. Again, a financial incentive is provided by WTW to compensate those taking part in this programme for their time and effort.

Rehabilitation centre In 2003 WTW set up a simple rehabilitation facility where sick turtles can be cared for and rehabilitated into the wild. This is the only centre of its kind in East Africa. Turtles from all along the Kenya coast are bought here to be treated by specialists.

• KES 3,000 or $35 for a turtle • KES 2,000 or $25 for a nest For more information email: info@watamuturtles.com Or visit: www.watamuturtles.com

Sadly, most of the turtles admitted to the facility are suffering from a disease thought to be related to marine pollution. Other common problems are also mostly human-related, including injuries from spear guns, fish hooks, nets and lines as well as being hit by boats.

• The biggest turtle ever seen was a leatherback, measuring just under 3 metres in length and weighing just under 1 ton • Their diet ranges from seaweed to coral, crabs and jellyfish. Turtles often confuse plastic items with jellyfish or seaweed – a common cause of death. You can help us save turtles by not using plastic bags or dropping litter • The females migrate thousands of miles to the beach where they hatched to lay their own nests. They use the earth’s magnetic field to navigate across the ocean • Males never go ashore unless they are sick • Females go ashore to lay their eggs. They dig a pit up to 1 metre deep in the sand, lay their eggs (about a 100 per nest) and bury them under the sand before returning to the sea • Turtle eggs take 45 to 70 days to hatch, depending on the species. The hatchlings emerge from the nest together, usually at night to avoid predators and the daytime heat. Hatchlings have no parental care and must fight to survive • Only one in 1,000 hatchlings are expected to survive to adulthood • Turtles are endangered. The biggest threat to their survival is human intervention. So we are all responsible for their future.

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

SHIpWrecKS coULd be KeNyA’S LAteSt toUrISt AttrActIoN

WELCOME TO THE UNDERWATER MUSEUM 26

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uNDERWATER MuSEuM

he National Museums of Kenya (NMK) is looking to widen the range of fascinating tourism activities available on the coast by creating new underwater museums.

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This is by far the oldest shipwreck to have been discovered in Kenya. Now, the NMK is carrying out studies to determine her origin, age, cargo and the type of timber used in her construction.

Mombasa was an object of desire for many a couple of centuries ago. The Portuguese guarded it jealously when they took it, while the Arab sultans plotted day and night how they would recapture it. It was during one of these intense battles in 1697, just before the island fell into Arab hands, that one of the recently discovered ocean treasures sank to the ocean bed. The Portuguese had stationed a warship close to their garrison, Fort Jesus, to ward off enemy vessels from the harbour.

SHIPWRECKS DISCOVERED In a fierce battle for the control of Mombasa, the Portuguese naval vessel ‘Santo Antonio’ was sunk by Arab warships.

the NMK is working with chinese archaeologists on a study of an ancient chinese shipwreck

Now, the NMK intends to turn the sunken vessel into a tourist attraction. The NMK believes there could be more sunken ships and other treasures from centuries ago scattered across the ocean floor around Mombasa Island.

According to NMK records, there are over 30 known shipwrecks along the Kenyan coast. Eleven of these are said to have lain in deep water for over 50 years. Those along the Mombasa coast include ‘Highland Lassie’ (1879), ‘Sussex’ (1909) and ‘Hamad’ (1909). A similar shipwreck has been found in the Ngomeni area, just north of Malindi. Lying at a depth of 10 metres, about 2 km offshore, the vessel has not been identified by name but has been christened ‘Ngomeni’ by the NMK. She is believed to have been sunk in the 14th century.

Water sports, especially diving and snorkelling, are already very popular. Now there are opportunities to blend these sports by allowing visitors to dive on to historical sites on the ocean floor off Mombasa and Malindi.

Further north, off the Lamu coast, the NMK is working with Chinese archaeologists on a study of an ancient Chinese shipwreck. The ship is believed to be part of a fleet led by Zheng He, who sailed into Malindi in 1418 during China’s Ming Dynasty. To help preserve this ancient shipwreck, the Chinese government plans to build a giant underwater museum.

HERITAGE TOuRISM Kenya has already begun to diversify its tourism portfolio with niche products such as sports tourism. Now it is starting to tap into heritage tourism, which can attract high-end tourists. With the discovery of these shipwrecks and the possibility of turning them into tourism sites, this could be a time of expansion for heritage tourism in Kenya. As well as visiting the shipwrecks, tourists could go on underwater tours that would allow them to view the flora and fauna under the ocean. The NMK is now surveying the waters off Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu to document shipwrecks and look for ways of preserving them with a view to enhancing heritage tourism. Once this survey is concluded, the NMK will provide a detailed chronology of the Swahili trading and settlements of yesteryear along with growth and development information. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSuE 02

Mwaluganje has the highest density of elephants in Africa

ÂŠ Camps International

Welcome to jumbo land

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Mwaluganje ELEPHANTS

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enyaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s south coast not only has some of the most beautiful beaches in the country, but also offers a host of opportunities for nature lovers.

Visitors to the coast who do not have time to make a complete bush safari inland to national parks such as the Masai Mara National Reserve have other options closer at hand. It means they can leave their hotels in the morning for a day trip to some of the south coast attractions and be back in time for dinner.

cycads A visit to Shimba Hills National Reserve or Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary (MES) offers a welcome break for those keen to see game. MES is one of the best places to visit. Here, visitors can not only get close to the animals, but also learn more about them. The sanctuary is home to over 200 elephants and contains many varieties of flora and fauna including the rare cycad forest. The cycads are small, palm-like plants dating back to the Jurassic period about 180 million years ago. They live in pairs, with male and female enjoying a symbiotic relationship.

MES is one of the best places to visit. Here, visitors can not only get close to the animals, but also learn more about them

landscape MES was established in 1933 in an effort to preserve a migration corridor along an ancient elephant route. The sanctuary conserves African elephants in a moist deciduous forest and riparian ecosystem. Within the sanctuary, the terrain is a blend of rolling hills, steep ridges, cliffs and winding water shades. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

mwaluganje ELEPHANTS

Facts about elephants • The ancestors of elephants appeared 50 million years ago in North Africa. They were pig-sized and resembled a tapir

Access to MES is via the Likoni Ferry for those coming in from the north coast and Mombasa. Self-drive visitors to Mwaluganje should follow the road signs after crossing on the ferry. On arrival, visitors pay an entrance fee to support the local community. It takes another 30 minutes to get from the main park entrance to the sanctuary.

human-wildlife conflict There are plenty of attractions during a visit to the sanctuary. Expect to see warthog, bushbuck, waterbuck, baboon and the occasional sable antelope in the daytime. Nocturnal creatures such as bush babies, porcupines, genets, leopards, mongooses, hyenas and honey badgers can also be seen. The 60,000 acre sanctuary was named Mwaluganje in honour of the Luganje family who owned the land. In the recent past MES has helped reduce human-wildlife conflict in the region thanks to an electric fence that keeps the elephants securely within the sanctuary. It is said that Mwaluganje has the highest density of elephants in Africa.

• During the Ice Age there were six or seven species of elephant, including mastodons in North America and mammoths in Eurasia and North America. Today, there are three species: the 4 metre (13 ft) tall African savanna elephant; the smaller 3 metre (10 ft) tall rainforest elephant; and the Asian elephant of the same height. • On the African savanna elephant, the weight difference between male and female can be up to 2 tons. Males weigh on average 6 tons and females 4 tons. This makes the African elephant the world’s largest land mammal. The Asian elephant weighs 5 tons in the case of males and 3 tons for females. • In Kenya the population has declined from 150,000 to 30,000 in 10 years and in Zimbabwe from 80,000 to 60,000 • The elephant has a lifespan of 60 to 70 years • A vital part of the elephant’s body is its trunk, which it uses like an extra foot or hand. It is used to gather food and water and put it in the elephant’s mouth. It is also used as a digging, dusting and fighting device. Elephants can also use their trunks to pull down trees • The trunk has over 40,000 muscles and tendons. It can weigh 160 kg (400 lb) and measure 2.1 metres (7 ft) in length and can lift objects as heavy as 120 kg (300 lb). The trunk can throw a man 35 metres (116 ft) and is able to drag a weight of 2 tons

• An African elephant can detect seismic signals with sensory cells in its feet. Ground vibrations are picked up by its front feet and travel up its legs and shoulder bones into the middle ear. The elephant compares the timing of signals received by each of its front feet to determine the direction of sound • Elephants cover their bodies with mud to prevent sunburn. Their wrinkled skin helps them regulate their body temperature and keep its humidity. The wrinkled skin retains five to 10 times more water than a smooth skin and the mud dries more slowly, thus keeping the animal cool for longer • Elephants walk at up to 9 km per hour (5.5 mph) and can run at up to 40 kph (25 mph) despite their huge size • Elephants spend up to 16 hours a day eating. They consume 150 to 170 kg of food in the dry season and 200 to 280 kg in the rainy season. They drink an average of 80 litres of water per day • Elephants live in tight social units led by an older matriarch. Males leave the herd between the ages of 12 and 15 • The ivory tusks are actually enormously enlarged incisors. Average length is 2.5 metres (83 ft) and they weigh about 60 kg (130 lb). • Elephants have the largest brains in the animal kingdom • Besides trumpeting (expressing anger), elephants communicate through infrasounds with a frequency of 14 to 24 Hz. These sounds can travel across vast distances without being weakened by vegetation. This is why elephant herds located a long way apart can move in a co-ordinated way. The infra-sounds are generated by a membrane located in the forehead.

• Despite their size, elephants can be spooked by small creatures. They avoid them because of the sensitive nerve endings in their trunks

Elephants walk at up to 9 km per hour (5.5 mph) and can run at up to 40 kph (25 mph) despite their huge size

• Elephants’ closest living relatives are the sea cow and the rock hyrax

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MALINDI

THALA SPA

SUPER SPA TREATMENTS creAte A WINNINg ForMULA 32

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MALINDI

he ocean-front resort town of Malindi is a tropical beach paradise humming with day and night-long activities. Its relaxed ambience draws in visitors from far and wide keen to escape the bustle of everyday life and embrace a whole new world of total relaxation to help rejuvenate the mind, body and soul. For centuries, this ancient town has played host to visitors from all walks of life and from almost every corner of the globe. Today, the resort town has a strong Italian flavour thanks to the large Italian community that now resides in the town and, of course, the annual influx of Italian tourists.

the overall theme adopted for the construction and decoration of this resort is mainly Swahili with a strong Arabian influence

It was Malindi’s beauty that captured the heart of the former Renault Formula One boss

Flavio briatore, so much so that the flamboyant Italian billionaire and businessman decided to build a private holiday home there. This proved a very popular getaway destination for Flavio and his high-flying friends and colleagues, such as british supermodel Naomi Campbell and former Formula One champion Fernando Alonso. In 2007 Flavio converted this exclusive beach property into a world-class boutique resort with just 16 tastefully furnished and well-decorated

rooms housed in four large villas. The overall theme adopted for the construction and decoration of this resort is mainly Swahili with a strong Arabian influence characteristic of the coastal region.

WORLD’S bEST SPA In addition to the high-flying individuals who come to stay at the resort each year, the Lion in the Sun is known the world over for its first-class spa. Voted the world’s best spa by ‘Tatler’ magazine, the Thala Spa Henri Chenot is the only one of its kind in Africa, according to Sabina Vivaldi, the resort’s general manager. “We are a brand that is synonymous with the crème de la crème of excellence and high quality,” says Sabina. “And when we came up with the spa, we wanted to be unmatched in every respect.” Since the opening of this resort and its worldclass spa, the Kenyan hospitality industry has

been propelled to new heights and the rest are fighting to catch up. The spa at the Lion in the Sun resort is regarded as one of the most modern and professional treatment and well-being centres in Africa. According to Sabina, it is renowned for its exclusive treatments in the setting of a welcoming ambience that guarantees attentive service and absolute privacy for those who wish to be looked after and pampered by an exceptional staff of therapists. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSuE 02

MALINDI

THALA SPA

According to Sabina, the guiding spirit of the Thala Spa Henri Chenot is Margarita Mayrata, a pupil for many years of Henri Chenot who, together with a staff of expert collaborators from Kenya, Italy, the Philippines and Spain, looks after guests in a totally personalised way. The examination follows the principles and teachings of Henri Chenot, who is an expert in biontology.

philosophy Biontology is described as the study of the essence of life and its evolution. Its main objective is to describe a new concept of health that deeply analyses the changes that take place in the body with the passing of time and considers interaction of body and mind to be fundamental. Guests taking spa treatments receive specific information relating to their treatment and bodies based on the concept of biontological philosophy. The resort’s spa features six treatment cabins, three sea water hydrotherapy facilities, a hairdressing salon and the science and technology of Henri Chenot. Sea water is used in thalassotherapy combined with massage techniques derived from traditional Chinese medicine alongside the latest discoveries of modern Western medicine. In line with Henri Chenot’s wellness concept, guests at the spa are offered a ‘bio-light diet’, a non-restrictive alimentary regime that teaches a correct use of foods. The diet includes fibre-rich foods, plenty of fruit and vegetables, vital cereals and a choice of vegetable and fish protein over meat protein.

Voted the world’s best spa by ‘Tatler’ magazine, the Thala Spa Henri Chenot is the only one of its kind in Africa

detox The diet is based on careful selection of the type and quality of the ingredients and on the combination of various dishes during the meal. The menu gives preference to bio-cultivated foods that are antioxidant, hypo-toxic and high nutritious. Unrefined, unprocessed ingredients that have not lost any of their properties are of fundamental importance. Finally, the cuisine of the Detox Diet attaches great importance to the

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MALINDI ment. In addition, the spa therapists will devise for each guest a special ‘bio-light’ diet of local organic products rich in vitamins and minerals.

Signature treatments Henri Chenot is revered as the Italian ‘king of detox’. And detox is one of the signature treatments offered at the Thela Spa Henri Chenot at Lion in the Sun. This treatment is by far the most popular with guests staying at the resort and with those who come from nearby resorts to experience this treatment. The detox treatment at Thelaspa comprises a personalised ‘bio-light’ diet, six massages, six hydrotherapy treatments, six mud therapy treatments and six hydro jets. For this kind of treatment, expect to pay anywhere from €3,000 per person.

Thala Spa Henri Chenot has: • A consultation office • Seven massage cabins • A room for scalp treatment • Three hydrotherapy rooms • Three phyto-mud therapy rooms • A hydro jet room • Fitness area with Techno-gym equipment • Hairdresser • Shops with Henri Chenot products and books

correct combination of ingredients, the method of preparation and the presentation of dishes. Sabina says the spa uses the renowned Henri Chenot treatment methods, which are a combination of advanced clinical and physiological techniques blended with the principles of ancient Chinese medicine. This, she says, helps unlock the energy channels within to bring about body equilibrium in the person undergoing the treat-

In addition, the spa has other signature treatments that are popular with guests. One is the 90-minute Lion in the Sun Signature facial treatment comprising a deeply relaxing treatment under a towel compress followed by a cleansing treatment and a smooth yet deep facial massage. The unhurried treatment is followed by a skin-specific masque application, followed by toning and moisturising treatments that leave the skin effulgent. According to Sabina, the spa’s anti-ageing facial treatment is also popular. The 90-minute treatment claims to offer ‘a renewal of you’. It commences with a thorough skin analysis after one has discussed with the spa therapists the detailed results that one expects to achieve after going through the procedure. Once this has been agreed upon, the facial treatment is applied. To achieve this, an intensive renewal serum is applied to the facial skin and then massaged into the skin to help lift and firm it. The procedure also helps lessen the appearance of fine skin lines. What follows next is the application of a cellular renewal masque to the face. This, explains Sabina, helps improve skin tone and texture while at the same time minimising the appearance of pores. The treatment is signed off by a complimentary hand and arm massage. The result is a glowing face.

The spa also caters for the men, who want to look good and are conscious of their bodies. It offers the signature gentleman’s facial treatment, which has clinically proven ingredients that work immediately on the skin to minimise signs of ageing and help smooth the fine lines. The treatment is capped with a deep cleansing, hydrating treatment that is accompanied by a deep massage and masque application to reduce signs of fatigue, stress and ageing.

meditation The massages applied at the resort spa are based on an ancient Chinese cupping method which is as agonising as it is deeply restorative. Deep meditation sessions are also available at the spa. The meditation sessions take place on the clean, private beach overlooking the ocean. The sessions include quiet moments by the ocean that ‘take you away from you’ while the cool breeze caresses your body. And what do you get after this? A lighter, younger and happier you. Truly life-enhancing.

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

MALINDI

ITALIAN INFLUENCE

Mamma Mia! Malindi is little Milano I

n its seven centuries of existence, Malindi has been invaded at least five times. And each invasion has left a lasting mark on the resort town. First to come ashore were the Arabs, in the 12th century, who were so captivated by the beauty of Malindi and the hospitality of the local people that they intermarried with them, thus giving birth to the rich Swahili culture in Malindi. They also left behind a legacy of architectural prowess.

Portuguese seafarers, led by Vasco da Gama, arrived in Malindi in the 15th century but did not stay for long as they were looking for a sea route to India. Their visit is commemorated by the iconic Vasco da Gama pillar, sited on a cliff overlooking the ocean. In modern times, after Kenyan independence in 1963, the Germans came calling in the 1970s. Many were wealthy senior citizens attracted by the excellent climate, beautiful beaches and

relaxed ambience of Malindi. Some invested in holiday homes where they could stay when it was winter in Europe. Meanwhile, British visitors opted to maintain a close-knit community within Malindi.

Adventurous Italians It was the arrival of the Italians, however, that made the biggest impact. With their open-minded and adventurous spirit, the Italians have influenced almost every facet of life in the resort town. Today, Malindi has the highest Italian population in Kenya (about 3,000). In addition, the town welcomes an even higher number of Italian visitors each year who come for a holiday or to visit friends and relatives in the town. This affects life in Malindi in various ways, but positively more than negatively.

Malindi has continued to attract Italian tourists and investors. Most notable is the flamboyant former Renault Formula One boss, Flavio Briatore 36

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Huge sums of money have been invested in the local economy. Over 4,000 private cottages and villas are now owned by the Italian community in Malindi. This large-scale invest-

MALINDI

ment has created jobs for local people as well as giving a major boost to the local economy. There is even an Italian consulate in the resort town.

Language exchange Local people have embraced the Italian community to such an extent that Italian is the second most widely spoken language in Malindi after Swahili. Swahili is widely spoken in local shops. But when a foreigner enters, the language swiftly changes to Italian. In spite of their humble background, many local people have a good grasp of Italian. There are no Italian language schools in Malindi. Most of the locals are self-taught and have quickly picked up the syntax from daily interaction with Italians. Most are better at speaking the language than reading or writing it. The Italian community and the thousands of Italian visitors love this. It gives them a feeling of acceptance by the local population. There

has been a language exchange, too, with many Italians making an effort to learn Swahili. Others, especially the resident community, have gone further and learnt dialects such as Giriama â&#x20AC;&#x201C; usually by chatting with the local people.

Space station The rise of the Italian community in Malindi began in the 1970s when Italian researchers arrived in Ngomeni, Malindi County, to set up the San Marco space station. Franco Esposito, known locally as Kasoso wa Baya, was among the first group of researchers who came to Malindi. He has since settled and invested in the resort town and acquired Kenyan citizenship.

palatial holiday home in Malindi. It became so popular with his friends and family that he decided to build an exclusive boutique resort called Lion in the Sun. Flavio Briatore has also invested in an exclusive new property in Malindi, the Billionaires Resort, as part of his international Billionaire Club brand, where wealthy Italians and others can invest in de-luxe holiday homes and apartments.

The offshore San Marco facility, just north of Malindi, is one of the few satellite stations in Africa.

For the convenience of the Italian community in Malindi, national carrier Kenya Airways has resumed direct flights between Rome and Nairobi.

Over the years, Malindi has continued to attract Italian tourists and investors. Most notable is the flamboyant former Renault Formula One boss, Flavio Briatore, who invested in a

As Malindi celebrates another century of existence, only time will tell which other community will dominate and influence its lifestyle as much as the Italians have over the past three decades. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

MALINDI

SIGHTS & SOUNDS

MAGNIFICENT MALINDI WelCoMe to a tReasuRe tRoVe oF histoRY and natuRe 38

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

MALINDI

he resort town of Malindi, just north of Mombasa, is known for its luxury villas, exotic Italian restaurants, beautiful white sandy beaches and a strong cultural heritage. For many years, the town has welcomed visitors from all over the world. In addition to its warm hospitality and relaxed ambience, visitors will find plenty to see and do. Many tour operators and hotels in Malindi and the neighbouring resort town of Watamu arrange day excursions to heritage sites, nature trails and other places of interest. Heritage sites include the 12th century Swahili settlement known as the Gede ruins, now a national monument under the National Museums of Kenya (NMK). The ruins are scattered across 45 acres and include mosques and a magnificent palace as well as houses, telling of a once wealthy Swahili village.

GEDE rUINS Of all the historical remains on the Kenyan coast, the Gede ruins are the most intensively studied. First visited in 1884 by Sir John Kirk, a British resident of Zanzibar, they were declared a historical monument in 1927 and a protected monument in 1929. In the late 1930s the Public Works Department took measures to preserve its crumbling walls. The ruins are now under the care of the NMK. In addition to this key archaeological site, the indigenous forest around the ruins is a sacred site or Kaya where the local community honour their gods and ancestors.

For those with an adventurous spirit, a visit to hell’s kitchen just north of Malindi is a special experience

Gede peaked during this period but was abandoned in the first half of the 17th century – not least because of the renewed raids by the Wazimba and Galla communities. The removal of the Sheikh of Malindi and the Portuguese in Mombasa was a contributing factor, while the gradual falling of the settlement’s water table was the final blow. Townspeople had deepened the well outside the Great Mosque, whose ruins still stand.

The settlement was abandoned following constant raids by the Galla people from Somalia, then rebuilt in the 15th and 16th centuries. Its reconstruction was marked by new town walls to protect it from aggressors. It also coincided with the migration of other populations from similar coastal settlements in Kilwa (Tanzania) and Mombasa.

The Gede ruins are in the small village of Gede, off the Malindi-Mombasa highway at the turn-off to Watamu. Other heritage sites in Malindi include the Vasco da Gama Pillar, the Malindi Museum and the 15th century Portuguese chapel, still used as a place of worship. Next to the chapel is the graveyard SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

MALINDI

Sights & sounds

where Saint Francis Xavier buried two of his sailors during his journey to India in 1542. The Pillar Tombs are yet another heritage attraction in Malindi. Located next to Jumia Mosque, between the jetty and the town centre, the 15th century tombs are said to be the burial place of Portuguese sailors who settled in Malindi for about a year while seeking a route to India. The pillars bear inscriptions from the late Chinese Ming Dynasty. Visits to Mambrui, another 15th century Swahili settlement a short drive from Malindi, can also be arranged. Mambrui is said to have been inhabited in the 19th century by some of the most conservative and religious-minded people on the coast.

Hell’s Kitchen

The canyon-like features of the depression were formed by strong winds and rains that eroded the surface over many years to create a ridge of sandstone hewn into a set of gorges whose colours change from white to pale pink between sunrise and early afternoon. The gorges take on a rich orange complexion and glitter in the early evening.

The Sabaki Estuar is a beautiful vista as flocks of colourful birds gather on the water’s edge

A morning or late afternoon visit to the depression is strongly recommended as the midday heat can be unforgiving. That is how the depression got its nickname of Hell’s Kitchen. Guides from the Marafa-Hell’s Kitchen Association are available to take visitors to the bottom of the

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For those with an adventurous spirit, a visit to Hell’s Kitchen just north of Malindi is a special experience. Known in the local dialect as Nyari, meaning ‘the place that broke itself’, Hell’s Kitchen is famous for the wonderful way it looks at sunset. It is also known as the Marafa Depression.

If you are looking for a rewarding nature visit, Malindi is the place to go

MALINDI

Arabuko Sokoke Forest mini-canyon. They have a wealth of knowledge about the depression, especially from the local community’s perspective.

Birdwatcher’s paradise The green expanses to the north and south of Malindi are home to a rich birdlife. The Sabaki Estuary, just 5 km north of Malindi, is a beautiful vista as flocks of colourful birds gather on the water’s edge. Located at the point where the Sabaki River, which starts just outside Nairobi as the Athi River, drains into the ocean, this is Kenya’s largest estuary. The surrounding landscape is a visual delight of shifting sand dunes, green mangroves and golden sands against a background of blue skies. Birds in this landscape include the sooty gull, Saunders’s Tern, the Lesser Crested Tern and the Madagascar Pratincole, which migrates from southern Africa and is usually seen between May and September.

The Kenyan coast prides itself on having large tracts of virgin lands and green vegetation. This is no doubt why the largest coastal forest in East Africa is along the Kenyan coastal stripe. Experienced guides are available from A Rocha Kenya who know exactly where to spot the various bird species. For example, the best time to see the Saunders’s Tern is in early morning or late afternoon. Those looking for a more unusual experience can join the guides on a moonlit birdwatching safari. Birdwatching is also available south of Malindi at Mida Creek, a large tidal inlet covering more than 32 sq km and lined by a thick mangrove forest that offers rich breeding sites for reef fish and some pelagics.

mida creek Mida Creek is a major breeding ground for northern migratory birds such as the rare Crab Plover. The ecosystem also contains a resident population of greater flamingos, yellow-billed storks and egrets. Other birds here include curlews, sandpipers, stints and spoonbills. The best time to see the birds is in the afternoon when the ocean tide is coming in. The creek is accessed via a boardwalk suspended on steel ropes. Malindi is home to some of the country’s richest and most diverse natural habitats. With over 10 per cent of Kenya’s Important Bird Areas (IBA), it is internationally recognised as an important habitat for bird conservation. So, if you are looking for a rewarding nature visit, Malindi is the place to go.

As one of Kenya’s most important ecosystems, the Arabuko Sokoke contains a wealth of unique flora and fauna. It is home to over 50 per cent of Kenya’s rare or threatened plant species, while over 60 per cent of all birdlife on the coast is here. BirdLife International regards the Arabuko Sokoke Forest as one of the most important conservation areas for threatened birds in mainland Africa. Together with the adjacent Mida Creek, the area forms part of the Unesco Biosphere Reserve. The forest covers more than 6,000 hectares while a further 600 hectares form a national park. The forest is host to 65 per cent of all animals on the coastal strip mainly because it consists of three forest lands rolled into one. To the east of the larger forest and in the wetter coastal sands is the so-called Mixed Forest, supporting a diverse array of tree species including the prehistoric cycad plants. In the central belt of the main forest, where infertile white sands abound in an open woodland area, is the Brachystegia Forest, home to three of the six globally threatened birds in the Arabuko-Sokoke Forest, namely, the Amani Sunbird, Clarke’s Weaver and the Sokoke Pipit. The Cynometra Thicket, by far the largest wooded area of the forest, completes the three-tier system. The Sokoke Scops Owl calls this habitat home. The indigenous Brachylaena huillensis (Muhuhu) was once abundant here but is now critically threatened owing to illegal extraction.

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LAMU

YOGA HOLIDAY

Looking for a yoga holiday? Tranquil Lamu has all the right ingredients

SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

LAMU

amu is known for its relative peace and tranquillity. Those who have arrived in this coastal paradise by road say the further north you travel from Mombasa, the more serene the landscape becomes and the more the mind, heart, body and soul begin to relax. Famed for its rich Swahili culture and history, Lamu is one of the most secluded places to visit if you want peace to reflect on anything and everything. The moment you reach Lamu, a new sense of ‘you’ seems to emerge from within.

REJUVENATE To make this even more rewarding, Lamu is going a step further and incorporating peace and tranquillity seekers into a new yoga regime that is undoubtedly what the gods ordered for a totally relaxing getaway – a perfect antidote to stressful city living. Today, Lamu is THE place to go for a yoga holiday. Yoga instructors in Lamu offer a range of sessions designed to rejuvenate and invigorate your body, mind and soul. Fatuma’s Tower, with its sandy landscape, has a snug location at the rear of Shella Village overlooking the Shella sand dunes. Fatuma’s Tower is named after Fatuma Abu Bakar, who lived in this haven in the late 19th century. Descended from a noble Arab family, Fatuma lived here and was

Lamu is one of the most secluded places to visit if you want peace to reflect on anything and everything cared for by five female slaves until her death. With the ending of the slave trade, the tower was left to crumble.

tion. Those keen on yoga sessions can arrange a personal yoga programme or join the yoga retreat programme or even attend the afternoon yoga sessions. The mood here is one of total peace, away from the workaday world. This is no doubt why Fatuma’s Tower has been rated one of the world’s top 150 best places to visit by Harper’s & Queen.

FATUMA’S TOWER In 1998, after nearly a century of neglect, a programme of restoration and design began when Gillies and Fiammetta Turle, the new owners, set about restoring the place to its former glory, using Gillies’s background in antiquity to refurbish the decor. The couple have lived in Kenya for several years and have their home on the top floor of the Sand Castle at one end of the compound. In addition, there are three double rooms for guests. Known to local people as the Yoga Place, Fatuma’s Tower offers the yoga and wellness tourist an ideal environment for absolute relaxa-

ART OF LIVING CENTRE The Banana Yoga and Wellness House is another great venue in Lamu for yoga sessions. Here, massage and other holistic treatments are offered. It also houses the acclaimed Art of Living Centre and other lifestyle-changing courses that focus on meditation, yoga and cookery. There are daily yoga sessions with expert tuition by experienced yoga instructors for all levels. Other techniques offered at the wellness centre include aromatherapy and reflexology, body exfoliation, manicure and pedicure, Shiatzu and Reiki. SWAHILI COAST MAGAZINE // ISSUE 02

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