Growing Honeyberry At Home In Kentucky Dennis Morgeson Agent for Horticulture Washington County
Honeyberry History • Also known as haskap and Edible Honeysuckle • First documented in 1756 by Russian writers reporting on native plants and foods in Siberia • Loncicera caerula originated in Komchatka, Eastern Siberia and birds carried seeds to Japans northern island of Hokkaido.
History-Japan • The name haskap originates from the Ainu people of Hakkaido and is pronounced hah-shika-pu meaning the many presents of the branch • Honeyberry grew and spread naturally in the mountains of northern Japan and by the 1920’s locals were picking the berries and selling them • By the 1950’s there was a large market on Haikkaido for the picking and selling of honeyberry • The first commercial Honeyberry orchards began in 1970, to meet the growing demand from bakeries. • In the 1980’s further cultivation began but many of the wild honeyberries were destroyed by industrial parks and ports
History-Russia • In the 1950’s and 60’s Russian scientists found honeyberry to be rich in minerals, vitamins, and antioxidants. • They found a high level of polyphenols and anthocyanins responsible for the deep color • They also processed fruit into special drinks for their astronaut program and named it “the King of drinks”
History-North America • First introduced in the 1920’s from seeds from Russia although indigenous varieties can be found growing in most provinces in Canada • The first varieties were developed at the Agriculture Research Station in Beaver Lodge, Aleberta. “George Bugnet” and “Julia Bugnet” • More recently other varieties with better yield and taste were developed by breeders Dr. Maxine Thompson from Oregon State University, Dr. Bob Bors a the University of Saskatchewan, and Lidia Delafield of Berries Unlimited
History - North America • In the early 2000’s breeders brought over selections of Japanese and Russian varieties for crossing • The plants and germplasm database has been developed and is house at the University of Saskatchewan • Selections and cultivars have since been shared with US breeders and new varieties have been developed almost yearly
Location • The best way to succeed is to plan before you plant. • Do you know where you want to plant your new honeyberry plants? Avoid future obstacles by considering all aspects of the planting site, such as: • Cross-pollination • Sun and good soil • Surroundings • Spacing
Cross Pollination • Most honeyberry varieties require another different variety for crosspollination and fruit production. • In most cases, the lack of a compatible variety – defined as another different variety of honeyberry plant that blooms at the same time – is why honeyberry plants don’t bear fruit. • Insects and wind need to carry pollen from flower to flower between honeyberry plants, honeyberries and their pollen partners should be planted nearby – within 50 feet of one another for adequate crosspollination to occur.
Sun and Soil • Honeyberries thrive in a growing location that receives partial shade to full sun and has a well-drained, fertile soil. (Full sun is at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight during the growing season.) • Light is vital to fruit production and fruit quality, and also helps minimize the risk of fungal issues
Sun And Soil • Foliage of honeyberry plants may exhibit signs of injury if growing in a location that receives intense, direct full sun during the hot summer months. This can be avoided by planting in partial shade or constructing a temporary shade cloth structure for protection during the summer.
Sun and Soil
• Well-drained soil will help keep a honeyberry plant’s roots healthy and free of rot. • They will tolerate some clayey soil types, but soil amendments are ideally used to loosen soil. • If your site has fast-draining, sandy soil, plants may exhibit water-related stress (similar to conditions of drought) and may require more frequent watering. • Do not plant honeyberry plants in rocky or pure-clay soils.
Sun and Soil • In general – to help with water distribution – you can add coir, like Coco-Fiber Growing Medium, peat, compost, etc. to the soil at planting time. Sphagnum/peat can lower the soil pH, so if your soil pH is already lower than honeyberry plants tolerate (5.5 – 7.5), this may not be the best option.
Sun and Soil • To avoid directly dealing with native soil, you can plant honeyberry plants in containers. • Start with a pot that accommodates each honeyberry plant’s current root system (with room to grow). Most new honeyberry plants can be planted in a 3-gallon container to start, and you can move container-grown honeyberry plants into larger containers as the plants outgrow them. • Use good potting soil!
Sun and Soil • Honeyberry plants can be very adaptable and respond well to soil additives like compost or fertilizers, so they can get along well even where the soil is nutritionally poor. • Avoid planting sites with extremely heavy soils and poor drainage and ensure they have the necessary full-sun requirement.
Surroundings • Honeyberry plants can be a landscaping asset, so choose a planting site with this in mind. Imagine your honeyberries as full-grown plants and observe the surroundings: • Honeyberry plants have shallow root systems, but are there cables, pipes, or other lines and utilities you should avoid underground? • Is there a sidewalk or foundation within the range of your honeyberry plant’s roots?
Surroundings
• Will your honeyberry plant block the view of something you want to see once it’s fully grown? • Will neighboring trees be in the way or block sunlight from your honeyberry plants as they grow? • Even a year or two after planting, a honeyberry plant can be very difficult to move with stress-free success, so take the time to plant in just the right place the first time around.
Spacing • Ordinarily, planting honeyberry plants near structures like patios is not problematic because the soil beneath them is dry and compacted. The honeyberry’s roots will not be as encouraged to grow into this area; however, it’s better to plant with at least 4 to 5 feet of space between these structures and your honeyberry plants. • A good estimate is somewhere beyond your honeyberry plant’s estimated maximum spread. By planting honeyberry plants far enough away from man-made structures, you can avoid problems in the near or distant future.
Spacing Between Plants • Depending on the variety you choose, the spacing may vary. • As a general rule, most honeyberry plants naturally grow (or can be maintained with pruning) within a 4-foot range, both tall and wide. Use the honeyberry plant’s mature width as your guide for spacing between plants. • Plant each honeyberry plant at least 3 to 5 feet apart and no more than 50 feet apart for adequate cross-pollination
Before Planting • Honeyberry plants thrive in fertile soil, so, before you plant, test the soil where your honeyberries will be planted – including a test of the soil pH. • The ideal soil pH should be between 5.5 and 7.5, remember to avoid planting in soils that are extremely heavy or poorly drained.
When To Plant • Generally honeyberries are planted in spring, however potted plants can be planted most anytime as long as your soil is workable and not flooded or frozen.
Planting Tips • If your plant is potted, plant them at the same depth they were in the pot. • Honeyberry plants have shallow root systems – similar to blueberry plants. It is important to water thoroughly especially while fruiting and growing during summer.
Planting Steps • Do not soak potted honeyberry plants prior to planting. Instead, ensure that the soil around the potted honeyberry plants’ roots does not dry out. • Prior to placing the potted honeyberry plant in the planting hole, carefully remove the root system from the pot. • Gently loosen and spread the circling roots to encourage them to grow outward as they establish in the ground during the growing season.
Planting Steps • The planting hole should be deep and wide enough to accommodate the current root system without being restricted. • Place each honeyberry plant in the center of the planting hole with its roots down and spread out. Holding onto the stems to keep them vertical, backfill the hole, putting the topsoil back in first. You can avoid creating air pockets by working the soil carefully around the roots and tamping down firmly with your hands as you refill the planting hole around your honeyberry plants.
Planting Steps • Spread soil evenly around the plants and finish with a layer of mulch to prevent damage from water pooling and injury from freezing around the plants in fall going into winter.
After Planting
• Thoroughly water your newly planted honeyberry plants. A deep, slow soaking is best. If you previously determined you need to fertilize your honeyberry plants, this can be done in spring, even at planting time; however, as with any packaged product, follow the printed package label for specific instructions. • If planting in the fall, wait until spring instead to make any fertilizer applications. After watering, if soil appears to settle or sink into the planting hole, just add more soil – enough to bring the hole to ground level again.
After Planting • Apply a layer of organic material like wood mulch (rather than inorganic material like rocks), about 2 to 3 inches thick, around the root zone of your honeyberry plants. • Mulching helps discourage weeds while also keeping water from quickly evaporating away from the root zone. In the fall, increase the mulch layer or add a layer of straw for winter protection.
Additional Information • Honeyberry plants may live and be productive 30 to 50 years with proper maintenance. • Average yield per plant is 1/2lb to 2lbs (and upwards of 4lbs) of honeyberries, depending on factors like variety, location, pollination, and so on.
Fertilizing • Fertilizers – both synthetic and organic (naturally derived) – are soil amendments labeled with a “guaranteed analysis” of nutrients like Nitrogen (N), Phosphate (P), and Potash (K). • You can also use organic soil amendments, like compost and aged/rotted manure. They are used like fertilizers, but they are not technically fertilizers. • You can make your own organic soil amendments like compost out of food or garden scraps, or even find compost, manure, and other organic soil amendments from a trusted local source. • While these help add nutrients to the soil to support your honeyberry plants’ growth, they will not have a “guaranteed analysis” value.
Fertilizing • Once you have added the recommended amounts of fertilizer from your soil test you can do yearly fertilizing • Apply ½ cup each February of 19-19-19 around each plant, an additional application can be made in late June or early July as long as the plants are not drought or heat stressed
Possible Pests and Control • Neem Oil or Fruit Tree Spray • Pests: Aphids, spider mites, scale, whiteflies, beetles, leafrollers, and other insect pests. • Diseases: Powdery mildew, black spot, downy mildew, anthracnose, rust, leaf spot, botrytis, blight, and alternaria. • Timing: Dormant Season, Growing Season – Bud Break, Growing Season – After Blossom • Type: Mainly preventative, also active. Controls overwintering pests and their eggs, and pests on contact. Controls and prevents fungal diseases. • Application: Follow the label. Oil-based, so apply in early morning/late evening to minimize the potential for leaf burn. Test a small area prior to broad application to minimize risk to sensitive varieties. Apply as directed, every 7 to 14 days as needed.
No Blossoms or Fruit • Symptoms: Honeyberry plants can take about 1 to 2 years after planting (on average) before they bloom or bear fruit. Depending on the variety, flowers and fruit should appear on 1-year stems. Be sure not to prune off the tips of honeyberry plants as this is where a majority of flowers and fruit develop. If enough time has been allowed to pass, the honeyberry plants are otherwise healthy, and no pruning errors have been made, but you’re still seeing no blossoms or fruit, then there are a few things to do to help it become fruitful.
No Blossoms or Fruit • Prune to remove weak, spindly canes to ensure the strongest, healthiest canes have the best chance at fruiting. • Know your soil. Soil conditions, and the presence of necessary nutrients, help keep a honeyberry plant’s roots supplying nutrients through its vascular system. If the soil is poor, or poorly drained, this affects the health and viability of the plant as a whole. If the soil is being over-fertilized, especially with a fertilizer high in nitrogen, it may develop lush, vegetative growth (leaves and stems) instead of developing fruit buds or blooming.
Sunscald and Wind Burn • Clear, sunny days and high temperatures of summer can lead to sunburn on some plants, namely the foliage. • Symptoms: Dark brown, splotchy areas on foliage. Looks like a blight, but it’s not. It does not greatly hinder growth or production, but plant appearance may seem unsightly.
Sunscald and Wind Burn Control • Protect from intense summer sun with a temporary shade structure like that which can be provided using shade cloth.
Water Stress • Symptoms: Can relate to overwatering or underwatering. Overwatering commonly presents as pale green to yellow leaves and leaf drop. Can weaken a plant, lead to issues with root rot, and ultimately be fatal. Underwatering often presents as discolored – often yellowed – dry leaves. Plant may appear to wilt overall and prolonged lack of water can be fatal.
Water Stress • Water every 7 to 10 days during the growing season (if no rain within the week) or as needed (as the soil becomes dry to the touch). • If planted in a location where the soil does not adequately drain water after heavy rains (leading to standing water), relocate the plant as soon as possible. • If drought-like conditions persist, consider slow-trickle drip irrigation to allow water to reach the roots rather than wash over soil surface.
Wind Injury • Symptoms: Can involve injury such as leaning plants, broken or torn stems, and wind-burned foliage. Depending on the severity of the injury, a honeyberry plant can either bounce back from minor damage or succumb to constant windrelated harm. This is determined on an individual basis and the health of the plants before the damage occurs.
Wind Injury Control • Adequately tamp soil around the plant’s roots (and thoroughly water) at planting time to remove air pockets and ensure good contact with the soil. Air pockets and loose soil around the roots can cause the plant to rock easily in its planting hole, leaving it vulnerable to becoming uprooted. • If tender new foliage is blown or whipped around by the wind, it may appear discolored (dark – like a burn or bruise). This damaged growth can be removed to encourage healthy, new growth to take its place.
Pruning • Honeyberry plants are incredibly easy to grow. Not only do they tolerate most soil types and even partial shade, they also require very little in the way of pruning. Pruning is really only necessary in the first 3 to 5 years to only remove dead branches. When it’s time to prune your honeyberry plants, here are some things to know.
Pruning Tips • Fruit from honeyberry plants is produced on one-year (new) wood. Unless there is damage, try to avoid pruning the tops of the honeyberry plant’s stems. This is the location where a majority of fruit and flower buds develop.
When to Prune • Prune in late winter or early spring while the honeyberry plants are dormant, before the buds swell or break dormancy. Avoid over pruning or excessively pruning honeyberry plants as this can result in removal of fruiting wood and a decrease in fruit production.
How to Prune • After the honeyberry plants have reached their heavy fruiting maturity, usually around year 4 or 5 after planting, consider pruning annually the honeyberry plants to encourage heavier fruit production. Proper pruning will help reduce the amount of shade within the center of the plant, improving fruit quality and production and reducing the risk of fungal issues. It will also encourage new shoot growth. • Every 2 to 3 years (in early spring before growth begins), remove damaged, dead, and diseased wood. • Aim to leave 4 to 6 of the most healthy and vigorous older stems and a few strong new shoots. • New shoots will mature and replace older stems, which keeps a balanced vegetative and fruiting cycle going.
Harvesting • Honeyberries, much like blueberries, can be easily plucked from the plant when ripe. • Honeyberries are usually ripe early in the season, around late may and into June. • Avoid squeezing the ripe fruit, as it may be soft and even juicy at harvest time. Honeyberries may be “cherry-picked” individually or they may also be shaken from the plant to harvest several at once.
Harvesting • The ripe fruit will come loose and fall to the ground if the plant is carefully shaken, so place a tarp or other means of catching the fruit that falls prior to shaking the honeyberries loose. • Birds will also be watching your honeyberry plants for their fruit to ripen, so, as you notice the berries turn color from green to pinkish-purple and varying shades of indigo, you may want to consider covering the plants with garden netting to prevent birds and other garden critters from getting to your ripe fruit first.
Harvesting • Depending on the variety, location, pollination, and care – average yield per plant is 1/2 to 2 lbs (and upwards of 4 lbs) of honeyberries. Initial crops may be smaller, but, as plants continue to mature (2 to 4 years on average), fruit yields will increase. • While there are many ways to pick the fruit from your honeyberry plants, try to avoid harvesting any honeyberries that are not fully ripe. They are not harmful to eat under ripe, but they are quite tart! You can tell by the color of the fruit if it still needs time to ripen, as it will retain some of its green or lighter, pinkish tones.
Honeyberry Varieties • http://www.berriesunlimited.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3 -KXokwSJAB_Yy2QWRfm8LPsSK9zY2cms5NKiqQTyHGRbtxSEIupMS3_hoCODHw_wcB • http://www.fruit.usask.ca/haskap.html#Releases
Storing • To prolong your enjoyment of your honeyberry harvest, you may choose to store the fruit for future use. • Honeyberries will keep for a few days, up to a week, in your refrigerator. • If you don’t plan to use your honeyberry harvest right away, place the berries in a single layer on a baking sheet and freeze until firm. Then put them in labeled and dated freezer bags to enjoy all year long. • Frozen honeyberries keep up to a year in proper storage.
Nutrient
Nutrition
Amount per 100g
% Daily Value
Comment
Water
82.7 g
NA High water content
Protein
1.6 g
3%
Fat
1.6 g
NA
Dietary Fiber
6.7 g
27 % A good source of fiber
Vitamin C
12.1 mg
20 % A good source of vitamin C
Vitamin B1 (Thiamine)
0.16 mg
11 %
Vitamin B2 (Riboflavin)
0.02 mg
1%
Vitamin B6 (Pyridoxine)
0.02 mg
1%
Calcium
24.5 mg
2%
Copper
0.06 mg
3%
Iron
0.27 mg
2%
Magnesium
13.5 mg
3%
Manganese
0.14 mg
7%
Phosphorus
15.1 mg
2%
Potassium
211 mg
6%
Sodium
9.3 mg
0%
0.17 mg
1%
Zinc
Questions? • Resources • http://www.starkbros.com/growing-guide/printedguides/category/350 • http://www.berriesunlimited.com/?gclid=CjwKEAiAgKu2BRDu1OGw3 -KXokwSJAB_Yy2QWRfm8LPsSK9zY2cms5NKiqQTyHGRbtxSEIupMS3_hoCODHw_wcB • http://www.fruit.cornell.edu/berry/nurseries/Honeyberries.html • http://www.fruit.usask.ca/haskap.html#Releases